1995 JEEP CHEROKEE lock

PARKING BRAKE REAR CABLE REPLACEMENT (YJ)
(1) Raise vehicle and loosen equalizer nuts (Fig.
17).
(2) Remove clamp and cotter pin attaching rear ca-
ble to equalizer and remove cable.
(3) Remove cable clips.
(4) Remove rear wheel and brake drum.
(5) Remove secondary brakeshoe and disconnect
cable from lever on brakeshoe.
(6) Compress cable retainer with hose clamp (Fig.
16) and remove cable from backing plate.
(7) Install new cable in backing plate. Be sure ca-
ble retainer lock tabs are engaged in plate.
(8) Install secondary brakeshoe.
(9) Adjust brakeshoes to brake drum and install
drum and wheel.
(10) Install cable in equalizer. Secure cable with
retainer and cotter pin.
(11) Install cable clips.
(12) Adjust parking brakes. Refer to procedure in
this section.
PARKING BRAKE SWITCH
The parking brake switch is located on the lever
assembly on XJ models, or on the foot pedal assem-
bly on YJ models (Fig. 18). Switch replacement is de-
scribed in the parking brake lever or foot pedal
removal/installation procedures in this section.
Fig. 17 Parking Brake Components (YJ)
Fig. 18 Parking Brake Switch Location
5 - 68 PARKING BRAKESJ

CLUTCH DIAGNOSIS
INDEX
page page
Clutch Contamination....................... 3
Clutch Cover and Disc Runout................ 3
Clutch Housing Misalignment................. 4
Clutch Misalignment........................ 3Flywheel Runout........................... 3
General Diagnosis Information................ 3
Inspection and Diagnosis Charts............... 4
Installation Methods and Parts Usage........... 4
GENERAL DIAGNOSIS INFORMATION
Unless the cause of a clutch problem is obvious, ac-
curate problem diagnosis will usually require a road
test to confirm a problem. Component inspection will
then be required to determine the actual problem
cause.
During a road test, drive the vehicle at normal
speeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If chatter, grab,
slip, or improper release is experienced, remove and
inspect the clutch components. However, if the prob-
lem is noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may
be needed as the transmission or another driveline
component may be at fault. Careful observation dur-
ing the test will help narrow the problem area.
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water, or clutch fluid on the clutch
disc and pressure plate surfaces will cause chatter,
slip and grab.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated with oil, hydraulic fluid, or water/road
splash.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Oil leak-
age produces a residue of oil on the housing interior
and on the clutch cover and flywheel. Heat buildup
caused by slippage between the cover, disc and fly-
wheel, can sometimes bake the oil residue onto the
components. The glaze-like residue ranges in color
from amber to black.
Road splash contamination means dirt/water is en-
tering the clutch housing due to loose bolts, housing
cracks, or through hydraulic line openings. Driving
through deep water puddles can force water/road
splash into the housing through such openings.
Clutch fluid leaks are usually from damaged slave
cylinder push rod seals. This type of leak can only be
confirmed by visual inspection.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
FLYWHEEL RUNOUT
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the in-
dicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. However, mi-
nor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with
180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring (ap-
proximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal
isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel if scor-
ing is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.).
Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel crack-
ing or warpage after installation; it can also weaken
the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal. Tighten flywheel
bolts to specified torque only. Overtightening can dis-
tort the flywheel hub causing runout.
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain an-
other disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
JCLUTCH DIAGNOSIS 6 - 3

(3) Install clutch master cylinder push rod on
pedal. Secure rod with washer(s) and new cotter pin.
(4) Connect clutch pedal position switch wires.
(5) Install instrument panel lower trim cover, if re-
moved.
FLYWHEEL SERVICE
Inspect the flywheel whenever the clutch disc,
cover and housing are removed for service. Check
condition of the flywheel face, hub, ring gear teeth,
and flywheel bolts.
Minor scratches, burrs, or glazing on the flywheel
face can be reduced with 180 grit emery cloth. How-
ever, the flywheel should be replaced if the disc con-
tact surface is severely scored, heat checked, cracked,
or obviously worn.
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel surface is manufactured with a unique contour
that would be negated by machining. However,
cleanup of minor flywheel scoring can be performed
by hand with 180 grit emery, or with surface grind-
ing equipment. Replace the flywheel if scoring is
deeper than 0.0762 mm (0.003 in.).
Heavy stock removal by grinding isnot recom-
mended.Excessive stock removal can result in fly-
wheel cracking or warpage after installation. It can
also weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper
clutch release.
Check flywheel runout if misalignment is sus-
pected. Runout should not exceed 0.08 mm (0.003
in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of the fly-
wheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the dial indi-
cator on a stud installed in place of one of the
flywheel attaching bolts.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout.
Check condition of the flywheel hub and attaching
bolts. Replace the flywheel if the hub exhibits cracks
in the area of the attaching bolt holes.
Install new attaching bolts whenever the flywheelis replaced and use Mopar Lock N' Seal, or Loctite
242 on the replacement bolt threads.
Recommended flywheel bolt torques are:
²142 Nzm (105 ft. lbs.) for 6-cylinder flywheels
²68 Nzm (50 ft. lbs.) plus an additional turn of 60É
for 4-cylinder flywheels
Inspect the teeth on the starter ring gear.If the
teeth are worn or damaged, the flywheel should
be replaced as an assembly. This is the recom-
mended and preferred method of repair.
In cases where a new flywheel is not readily avail-
able, a replacement ring gear can be installed. How-
ever, the following precautions must be observed to
avoid damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
(a) Mark position of the old gear for alignment
reference on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this
purpose.
(b) Wear protective goggles or approved safety
glasses. Also wear heat resistent gloves when han-
dling a heated ring gear.
(c) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the
way through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-
off wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel
or punch.
(d) The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it.The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important.
Every surface of the gear must be heated at the
same time to produce uniform expansion. An oven
or similar enclosed heating device must be used.
Temperature required for uniform expansion is ap-
proximately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to re-
move the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
(e) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion. A shop press and
suitable press plates should be used to install the
gear if at all possible.
(f) Be sure to wear eye and hand protection.
Heat resistent gloves and safety goggles are needed
for personal safety. Also use metal tongs, vise grips,
or similar tools to position the gear as necessary
for installation.
(g) Allow the flywheel and ring gear to cool down
before installation. Set the assembly on a work-
bench and let it cool in normal shop air.
Fig. 16 Clutch Pedal Mounting (XJ)
6 - 16 CLUTCH SERVICEJ

COOLING SYSTEM
CONTENTS
page page
DIAGNOSIS............................. 4
ENGINE ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS......... 38
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER.................. 44GENERAL INFORMATION.................. 1
SERVICE PROCEDURES.................. 13
SPECIFICATIONS........................ 45
GENERAL INFORMATION
Throughout this group, references are made to par-
ticular vehicle models by alphabetical designation
(XJ or YJ) or by the particular vehicle nameplate. A
chart showing a breakdown of alphabetical designa-
tions is included in the Introduction section at the
beginning of this manual.
COOLING SYSTEM
The cooling system regulates engine operating tem-
perature. It allows the engine to reach normal oper-
ating temperature as quickly as possible, maintains
normal operating temperature and prevents over-
heating.
The cooling system also provides a means of heat-
ing the passenger compartment and cooling the auto-
matic transmission fluid (if equipped). The cooling
system is pressurized and uses a centrifugal water
pump to circulate coolant throughout the system.
An optional factory installed heavy duty cooling
package is available on most models. The package
consists of a radiator that has an increased number
of cooling fins. XJ models equipped with a 4.0L 6-cyl-inder engine and heavy duty cooling and/or air con-
ditioning also have an auxiliary electric cooling fan.
COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS
The cooling system consists of:
²A radiator
²Cooling fan (mechanical and/or electrical)
²Thermal viscous fan drive
²Fan shroud
²Radiator pressure cap
²Thermostat
²Coolant reserve/overflow system
²Transmission oil cooler (if equipped with an auto-
matic transmission)
²Coolant
²Water pump
²Hoses and hose clamps
SYSTEM COOLANT ROUTING
For cooling system flow routings, refer to Figs. 1, 2,
3or4.
JCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 1

SERVICE PROCEDURES
INDEX
page page
Auxiliary Electric Cooling FanÐXJ Models with 4.0L
6-Cylinder Engine....................... 35
Coolant................................. 20
Coolant Reserve/Overflow System............. 24
Cooling System Cleaning/Reverse Flushing...... 22
Cooling System Fans...................... 32
Cooling System Hoses..................... 32
Draining Cooling System.................... 21
Radiator Pressure Cap..................... 25
Radiators............................... 26Refilling Cooling System.................... 21
Testing Cooling System for Leaks............. 22
Thermostat.............................. 17
Transmission Oil Coolers.................... 36
Viscous Fan Drive......................... 34
Water Pump Tests......................... 13
Water PumpsÐGeneral Information............ 13
Water PumpsÐRemoval/Installation........... 14
WATER PUMPSÐGENERAL INFORMATION
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
radiator core, cooling system hoses and heater core.
The pump is driven from the engine crankshaft by a
drive belt on all engines.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear
of a shaft that rotates in bearings pressed into the
housing. The housing has a small hole to allow seep-
age to escape. The water pump seals are lubricated
by the antifreeze in the coolant mixture. No addi-
tional lubrication is necessary.
CAUTION: All engines are equipped with a reverse
(counter-clockwise) rotating water pump and vis-
cous fan drive assembly. REVERSE is stamped or
imprinted on the cover of the viscous fan drive and
inner side of the fan. The letter R is stamped into
the back of the water pump impeller (Fig. 1).
Engines from previous model years, depending
upon application, may have been equipped with a for-
ward (clockwise) rotating water pump. Installation of
the wrong water pump will cause engine overheating.
A quick test to determine if the pump is working is
to check if the heater warms properly. A defective wa-
ter pump will not be able to circulate heated coolant
through the long heater hose to the heater core.
WATER PUMP TESTS
LOOSE IMPELLER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.(1) Drain the cooling system.
(2) Loosen the fan belt(s).
(3) Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the
water pump.
(4) Bend a stiff clothes hanger or welding rod as
shown in (Fig. 2).
(5) Position the rod in the water pump inlet and
attempt to hold the impeller while turning the fan
blades. If equipped with a viscous fan drive, turn the
water pump shaft with a breaker bar and socket at-
tached to a mounting flange nut. If the impeller is
loose and can be held with the rod while the fan
blades are turning, the pump is defective. If the im-
peller turns, the pump is OK.
Connect the hose and install the coolant, or proceed
with repairs.
Fig. 1 Reverse Rotating Water PumpÐTypical
JCOOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURES 7 - 13

INSPECTING FOR INLET RESTRICTIONS
Inadequate heater performance may be caused by a
metal casting restriction in the water pump heater
hose inlet.
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) Drain sufficient coolant from the radiator to de-
crease the level below the water pump heater hose
inlet.
(2) Remove the heater hose.
(3) Inspect the inlet for metal casting flash or
other restrictions.
Remove the pump from engine before remov-
ing restriction to prevent contamination of the
coolant with debris. Refer to Water Pump Re-
moval.
WATER PUMPSÐREMOVAL/INSTALLATION
REMOVALÐALL MODELS
CAUTION: If the water pump is replaced because of
mechanical damage, the fan blades and viscous fan
drive should also be inspected. These components
could have been damaged due to excessive vibra-
tion.The water pump on all models can be removed
without discharging the air conditioning system (if
equipped).
CAUTION: All engines have a reverse (counter-
clockwise) rotating water pump. The letter R is
stamped into the back of the water pump impeller
(Fig. 1) to identify. Engines from previous model
years, depending upon application, may be
equipped with a forward (clockwise) rotating water
pump. Installation of the wrong water pump will
cause engine over heating.
The water pump impeller is pressed on the rear of
the pump shaft and bearing assembly. The water
pump is serviced only as a complete assembly.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE BLOCK DRAIN
PLUG(S) OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution
is clean, drain coolant into a clean container for re-
use.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) Drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining
Cooling System in this group.
(3)XJ models with 4.0L 6-cylinder engine
equipped with A/C or heavy duty cooling sys-
tem:
Loosen (but do not remove at this time) the four
water pump pulley-to-water pump hub mounting
bolts (Fig. 3).
XJ models with 4.0L 6-cylinder engine with-
out A/C or heavy duty cooling system; or any
2.5L 4-cylinder engines; or any YJ models:
Loosen (but do not remove at this time) the four
fan hub-to-water pump pulley mounting nuts (Fig. 4).
Fig. 2 Impeller TestÐTypical
Fig. 3 Water Pump Pulley Bolts
7 - 14 COOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURESJ

The engine accessory drive belt must be removed
prior to removing the fan (if installed at pump) or
fan pulley.
(4) Remove engine drive belt as follows:
(a) Loosen two rear power steering pump mount-
ing bolts A (Fig. 5).
(b) Loosen upper pump pivot bolt B and lower
lock nut C (Figs. 6 or 7).
(c) Loosen pump adjusting bolt D (Fig. 5) until
belt can be removed.(d) Remove belt.
(5) Check condition of all pulleys.
(6) The power steering pump must be removed
from its cast mounting bracket to gain access to bolt
E. Bracket mounting bolt E is located behind the
power steering pump (Fig. 7).
(7) Remove two bolts A (Fig. 5).
(8) Remove locknut C and belt adjustment bolt D
(Figs. 6 or 7).
(9) Remove bolt B (Fig. 6). Position power steering
pump to the side. Hold pump in position with wire.
Do not disconnect hydraulic lines from pump.
(10) Remove bolts E, F and G (Fig. 7) and remove
pump mounting bracket.
Fig. 4 Fan Mounting Nuts
Fig. 5 P.S. Pump Rear Mounting BoltsÐTypical
Fig. 6 P.S. Pump Front Mounting Bolt/LocknutÐ
Typical
Fig. 7 Bracket Mounting BoltsÐTypical
JCOOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURES 7 - 15

INSTALLATIONÐALL MODELS
(1) If pump is being replaced, install the heater
hose fitting to the pump. Use a sealant on the fitting
such as MoparŸ Thread Sealant With Teflon. Refer
to the directions on the package.
(2) Clean the gasket mating surfaces. If the origi-
nal pump is used, remove any deposits or other for-
eign material. Inspect the cylinder block and water
pump mating surfaces for erosion or damage from
cavitation.
(3) Install the gasket and water pump. The silicone
bead on the gasket should be facing the water pump.
Also, the gasket is installed dry. Tighten mounting
bolts to 30 Nzm (22 ft. lbs.) torque. Rotate the shaft
by hand to be sure it turns freely.
(4) Connect the radiator and heater hoses to the
water pump.
(5) Position water pump pulley to water pump hub.
(6) If equipped with a water pump mounted fan,
install fan and four nuts to water pump hub. If not
equipped with a water pump mounted fan, install
four pump hub bolts. Tighten bolts (or nuts) to 27
Nzm (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Position power steering pump bracket to en-
gine. Install bolts E, F and G (Fig. 7). Tighten bolts F
andGto38Nzm (28 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten bolt E to
27 Nzm (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Position power steering pump to mounting
bracket. Install pivot bolt B (Fig. 6) finger tight. In-
stall locknut C and adjustment bolt D (Figs. 6 or 7)
finger tight.
(9) Install two adjustment bolts A (Fig. 6) finger
tight.
(10) Install idler pulley.
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine engine
accessory drive belt, the belt MUST be routed cor-
rectly. If not, the engine may overheat due to the
water pump rotating in the wrong direction. Refer to
figures 11, 12, 13 or 14 for appropriate belt routing.
You may also refer to the Belt Routing Label in the ve-
hicle engine compartment.
(11) Position drive belt to pulleys.
(12) Tighten belt adjustment bolt D (Fig. 5) to the
proper tension. Refer to the Specifications section at
the end of this group for belt tension.
(13) Tighten bolts A (Fig. 5) to 27 Nzm (20 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(14) Tighten pivot bolt B (Fig. 6) to 27 Nzm (20 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(15) Tighten locknut C (Fig. 6) to 27 Nzm (20 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(16) After the power steering pump has been tight-
ened, recheck belt tension.
(17) Fill cooling system with coolant and check for
leaks. Refer to Refilling Cooling System in this
group.(18) Connect battery cable to battery.
(19) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
THERMOSTAT
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
A pellet-type thermostat controls the operating
temperature of the engine by controlling the amount
of coolant flow to the radiator. On all engines the
thermostat is closed below 195ÉF (90ÉC). Above this
Fig. 11 YJ Models with 4.0L Engine, and XJ Models
with 2.5L 4-Cylinder EngineÐWith A/C
Fig. 12 YJ Models With 2.5L or 4.0L Engine, and XJ
Models with 2.5L EngineÐWithout A/C
JCOOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURES 7 - 17