1995 JEEP CHEROKEE fuel filter

(2) Disconnect battery negative cable. Remove in-
strument cluster bezel and cluster assembly. Unplug
cluster connector A. Connect battery negative cable.
Turn headlamps on and select high beam. Check for
battery voltage at cavity A4 of cluster connector A. If
OK, replace indicator bulb. If not OK, repair circuit
to headlamp dimmer (multi-function) switch as re-
quired.
LOW FUEL WARNING LAMP
(1) Check that fuel gauge is operating as designed.
See Fuel Gauge Calibration chart in Specifications. If
OK, go to next step. If not OK, see Fuel Gauge in
this section for diagnosis.
(2) With at least 10 gallons of fuel in fuel tank, un-
plug fuel tank sending unit connector. Turn ignition
switch to ON and wait 10 seconds. Lamp (LED)
should light. Reconnect fuel tank sending unit and
wait 20 seconds. Lamp (LED) should go off. If not
OK, replace low fuel warning lamp module.
LOW OIL PRESSURE WARNING LAMP
The diagnosis found here addresses an inoperative
lamp condition. If the problem being diagnosed is re-
lated to lamp accuracy, be certain to confirm that
problem is with lamp and not with engine oiling sys-
tem. Actual engine oil pressure should be checked
with a test gauge before you proceed with lamp diag-
nosis. Refer to Group 9 - Engines for more informa-
tion.
(1) Turn ignition switch to ON. Lamp should light.
Start engine. Lamp should go off. If not OK, turn en-
gine off and go to next step.
(2) Unplug connector at oil pressure switch (Fig.
3). The switch is located on right side of engine block.
On 2.5L engine, it is just forward of ignition distrib-
utor and just to the rear of generator mounting
bracket. On 4.0L engine, it is just to the rear of igni-
tion distributor and above oil filter adapter. Install a
jumper wire from connector to a good ground. Turn
ignition switch to ON. Lamp should light. Unplug
jumper wire. Lamp should go out. If OK, replace oil
pressure switch. If not OK, go to next step.
(3) Turn ignition switch to OFF. Disconnect battery
negative cable. Remove instrument cluster bezel and
cluster assembly. Install a jumper wire from cavity
B7 (cavity B8 - RHD) of cluster connector A to a good
ground. Connect battery negative cable and turn ig-
nition switch to ON. Lamp should light. If OK, go to
next step. If not OK, replace lamp bulb.
(4) Turn ignition switch to OFF. Disconnect battery
negative cable. Unplug instrument cluster connector
A. Check continuity between cavity B7 (cavity B8 -
RHD) of cluster connector A and a good ground.
There should be no continuity. If OK, go to next step.
If not OK, repair short circuit as required.
(5) Check continuity between cavity B7 (cavity B8
- RHD) of cluster connector A and oil pressure switchconnector. There should be continuity. If not OK, re-
pair open circuit as required.
LOW WASHER FLUID WARNING LAMP
(1) Unplug washer fluid level switch connector.
Turn ignition switch to ON. Check for battery voltage
at connector cavity A. If OK, turn ignition switch to
OFF and go to next step. If not OK, repair open cir-
cuit to fuse F6 in PDC.
(2) Install a jumper wire from cavity A to cavity B
of washer fluid level switch connector. Turn ignition
switch to ON. Lamp should light. Unplug jumper and
lamp should go OFF. If OK, replace washer fluid
level switch. If not OK, go to next step.
(3) Turn ignition switch to OFF. Disconnect battery
negative cable. Remove instrument cluster bezel and
cluster assembly. Unplug instrument cluster (tell-
tale) connector B. Check continuity between cavity 16
(cavity 1 - RHD) of cluster connector B and a good
ground. There should be continuity. If OK, plug clus-
ter connector B back into cluster and go to next step.
If not OK, repair open circuit to ground as required.
(4) Connect battery negative cable. Install a
jumper wire from a 12-volt battery feed to cavity 1
(cavity 16 - RHD) of cluster connector B. Lamp
should light. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, re-
place bulb.
(5) Disconnect battery negative cable. Unplug clus-
ter connector B. Check continuity between cavity 1
(cavity 16 - RHD) of cluster connector B and a good
ground. There should be no continuity. If OK, go to
next step. If not OK, repair short circuit to switch as
required.
(6) Check continuity between cavity 1 (cavity 16 -
RHD) of cluster connector B and cavity B of washer
fluid level switch connector. There should be continu-
ity. If not OK, repair open circuit to switch as re-
quired.
MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP
The diagnosis found here addresses an inoperative
lamp condition. If the lamp comes on and stays on
with engine running, refer to Group 14 - Fuel System
for diagnosis. If no fuel or emission system problem
is found, the following procedure will help locate a
short or open in the lamp circuit.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable. Unplug PCM
connector. Install a jumper wire from cavity 32 of
PCM connector (Fig. 5) to a good ground. Connect
battery negative cable. Turn ignition switch to ON.
Lamp should light. Remove jumper wire and lamp
should go OFF. If OK, refer to Powertrain Diagnostic
Procedures to check PCM. If not OK, go to next step.
(2) Turn ignition switch to OFF. Disconnect battery
negative cable. Remove instrument cluster bezel and
cluster assembly. Install a jumper wire from cavity 2
(cavity 15 - RHD) of cluster (tell-tale) connector B to
a good ground. Connect battery negative cable. Turn
8E - 14 INSTRUMENT PANEL AND GAUGESÐXJJ

continuity. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair
circuit to ground as required.
(4) Remove center instrument cluster bezel and
gauge package cluster assembly. Disconnect cluster
connector.
(5) Probe cavity 6 of cluster connector. Check for
continuity to a good ground. There should be no con-
tinuity. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair short
circuit as required.
(6) Still probing cavity 6 of cluster connector, check
for continuity to cavity 2 of sending unit wiring body
half connector. There should be continuity. If OK, re-
place gauge. If not OK, repair open circuit as re-
quired.
OIL PRESSURE GAUGE
The diagnosis found here addresses an inoperative
gauge condition. If the problem being diagnosed is re-
lated to gauge accuracy, be certain to confirm that
problem is with gauge and not with engine oiling sys-
tem performance. Actual engine oil pressure should
be checked with a test gauge and compared to gauge
readings before you proceed with gauge diagnosis.
Refer to Group 9 - Engines for more information.
(1) Turn ignition switch to ON. Disconnect oil pres-
sure sending unit connector. The sending unit (Fig. 3)
is located on right side of engine block. On 2.5L en-
gine, it is just forward of ignition distributor and just
to the rear of generator mounting bracket. On 4.0L
engine, it is just to the rear of ignition distributor
and above oil filter adapter. The gauge needle should
move to high end of gauge scale. If OK, go to next
step. If not OK, go to step 3.
(2) Install a jumper wire from sending unit wiring
to ground. The gauge needle should move to low end
of gauge scale. If OK, replace sending unit. If not
OK, remove jumper wire and go to next step.(3) Turn ignition switch to OFF. Disconnect battery
negative cable. Remove center instrument cluster be-
zel and gauge package cluster assembly. Disconnect
cluster connector.
(4) Probe cavity 9 of cluster connector. Check for
continuity to a good ground. There should be no con-
tinuity. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair short
circuit as required.
(5) Still probing cavity 9 of cluster connector, check
for continuity to sending unit wire connector. There
should be continuity. If OK, replace gauge. If not OK,
repair open circuit as required.
SPEEDOMETER/ODOMETER
The diagnosis found here addresses an inoperative
gauge condition. If the problem being diagnosed is re-
lated to gauge accuracy, be certain to confirm that
problem is with gauge and not with incorrect speed-
ometer pinion, axle ratio or tire size. Refer to Group
21 - Transmission and Transfer Case for more infor-
mation.
(1) Perform vehicle speed sensor test as described
in the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures
manual. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, replace ve-
hicle speed sensor.
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable. Unplug vehi-
cle speed sensor, PCM, and daytime running lamp
module connectors. Remove left instrument cluster
bezel and main cluster assembly. Disconnect cluster
connector.
(3) Probe cavity 13 of cluster connector. Check for
continuity to a good ground. There should be no con-
tinuity. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair short
circuit as required.
(4) Still probing cavity 13 of cluster connector,
check for continuity to cavity 1 of vehicle speed sen-
sor connector (Fig. 4). There should be continuity. If
OK, replace speedometer/odometer. If not OK, repair
open circuit as required.
Fig. 2 Fuel Gauge Sending Unit ConnectorFig. 3 Oil Pressure Sending Unit - Typical
8E - 28 INSTRUMENT PANEL AND GAUGESÐYJJ

minutes). The use of a locating dowel is recom-
mended during assembly to prevent smearing the
material off location.
Mopar Gasket Maker should be applied sparingly
to one gasket surface. The sealant diameter should
be 1.00 mm (0.04 inch) or less. Be certain the mate-
rial surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material
can easily be wiped off. Components should be
torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a lo-
cating dowel is recommended during assembly to pre-
vent smearing the material off location.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
To provide best vehicle performance and lowest ve-
hicle emissions, it is most important that the tune-up
be done accurately. Use the specifications listed on
the Vehicle Emission Control Information label found
on the engine compartment hood.
(1) Test battery specific gravity. Add water, if nec-
essary. Clean and tighten battery connections.
(2) Test cranking amperage draw (refer to Group
8B, Battery/Starter Service for the proper proce-
dures).
(3) Tighten the intake manifold bolts (refer to
Group 11, Exhaust System and Intake Manifold for
the proper specifications).
(4) Perform cylinder compression test:
(a) Check engine oil level and add oil, if neces-
sary.
(b) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature.
(c) Select a route free from traffic and other
forms of congestion, observe all traffic laws and
briskly accelerate through the gears several times.
The higher engine speed may help clean out valve
seat deposits which can prevent accurate compres-
sion readings.
CAUTION: DO NOT overspeed the engine.
(d) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for ab-
normal firing indicatorsÐfouled, hot, oily, etc.
Record cylinder number of spark plug for future
reference.
(e) Disconnect coil wire from distributor and se-
cure to good ground to prevent a spark from start-
ing a fire.
(f) Be sure throttle blades are fully open during
the compression check.
(g) Insert compression gage adaptor into the
No.1 spark plug hole. Crank engine until maximum
pressure is reached on gauge. Record this pressure
as No.1 cylinder pressure.
(h) Repeat Step 4g for all remaining cylinders.
(i) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 172 kPa (25 psi)
from cylinder to cylinder.(j) If cylinder(s) have abnormally low compres-
sion pressures, repeat steps 4a through 4h.
(k) If the same cylinder(s) repeat an abnormally
low reading, it could indicate the existence of a
problem in the cylinder.
The recommended compression pressures are
to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine
problems. An engine should NOT be disassem-
bled to determine the cause of low compression
unless some malfunction is present.
(5) Clean or replace spark plugs as necessary. Ad-
just gap (refer to Group 8D, Ignition System for gap
adjustment and torque).
(6) Test resistance of spark plug cables (refer to
Group 8D, Ignition System).
(7) Inspect the primary wire. Test coil output volt-
age, primary and secondary resistance. Replace parts
as necessary (refer to Group 8D, Ignition System and
make necessary adjustment).
(8) Perform a combustion analysis.
(9) Test fuel pump for pressure (refer to Group 14,
Fuel System for the proper specifications).
(10) Inspect air filter element (refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance for the proper proce-
dure).
(11) Inspect crankcase ventilation system (refer to
Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance for the proper
procedure).
(12) For emission controls refer to Group 25, Emis-
sion Controls System for service procedures.
(13) Inspect and adjust accessory belt drives (refer
to Group 7, Cooling System for the proper adjust-
ments).
(14) Road test vehicle as a final test.
HONING CYLINDER BORES
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels un-
der the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abra-
sive materials from entering the crankshaft area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823 equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring or scratches. Usually a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). 20-60 strokes, de-
pending on the bore condition, will be sufficient to
provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing oil
C-3501-3880 or a light honing oil available from ma-
jor oil distributors.
9 - 2 ENGINESJ

CONNECTING ROD BEARING CLEARANCE
Engine connecting rod bearing clearances can be
determined by use of Plastigage, or equivalent. The
following is the recommended procedures for the use
of Plastigage:
(1) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil.
(2) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire width
of the bearing cap shell (Fig. 2). Position the Plastigage
approximately 6.35 mm (1/4 inch) off center and away
from the oil holes. In addition, suspect areas can be
checked by placing the Plastigage in the suspect area.
(3) The crankshaft must be turned until the connect-
ing rod to be checked starts moving toward the top of
the engine. Only then should the rod cap with Plasti-
gage in place be assembled. Tighten the rod cap nut to
45 Nzm (33 ft. lbs.) torque.DO NOT rotate the crank-
shaft or the Plastigage may be smeared, giving in-
accurate results.
(4) Remove the bearing cap and compare the width
of the flattened Plastigage with the scale provided on
the package (Fig. 3). Plastigage generally comes in 2
scales (one scale is in inches and the other is a met-
ric scale). Locate the band closest to the same width.
This band shows the amount of clearance. Differ-
ences in readings between the ends indicate the
amount of taper present. Record all readings taken
(refer to Engine Specifications).
(5) Plastigage is available in a variety of clearance
ranges. The 0.025-0.076 mm (0.001-0.003 inch) range
is usually the most appropriate for checking engine
bearing clearances.
REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole.
This brings the hole back to its original thread
size.
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available
from automotive parts jobbers.
SERVICE ENGINE ASSEMBLY (SHORT BLOCK)
A service replacement engine assembly (short
block) may be installed whenever the original cylin-
der block is defective or damaged beyond repair. It
consists of the cylinder block, crankshaft, piston and
rod assemblies. If needed, the camshaft must be pro-
cured separately and installed before the engine is
installed in the vehicle.
A short block is identified with the letter ``S'' stamped
on the same machined surface where the build date
code is stamped for complete engine assemblies.
Installation includes the transfer of components
from the defective or damaged original engine. Fol-
low the appropriate procedures for cleaning, inspec-
tion and torque tightening.
HYDROSTATIC LOCK
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(refer to Group 14, Fuel System).
(2) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and in-
take manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure in
the cylinder head. Remove the plugs from the engine.
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (i.e. coolant,
fuel, oil, etc.).
(7) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt engine oil into the cylinders to lubricate
the walls. This will prevent damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 37 Nzm (27 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil (refer to Group 0, Lubrica-
tion and Maintenance).
(15) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
Fig. 3 Clearance Measurement
9 - 4 ENGINESJ

The digits of the code identify:
(1) 1st DigitÐThe year (4 = 1994).
(2) 2nd & 3rd DigitsÐThe month (01 - 12).
(3) 4th & 5th DigitsÐThe engine type/fuel system/
compression ratio (HX = A 2.5 liter (150 CID) 9.1:1
compression ratio engine with a multi-point fuel in-
jection system).
(4) 6th & 7th DigitsÐThe day of engine build (01 -
31).
FOR EXAMPLE:Code * 401HX23 * identifies a
2.5 liter (150 CID) engine with a multi-point fuel in-
jection system, 9.1:1 compression ratio and built on
January 23, 1994.
OVERSIZE AND UNDERSIZE COMPONENT
CODES
Some engines may be built with oversize or under-
size components such as:
²Oversize cylinder bores.
²Oversize camshaft bearing bores.
²Undersize crankshaft main bearing journals.
²Undersize connecting rod journals.
These engines are identified by a letter code (Fig.
4) stamped on the oil filter boss near the distributor
(Fig. 5).
ENGINE MOUNTSÐFRONT
The front mounts support the engine at each side.
These supports are made of resilient rubber.
REMOVALÐXJ VEHICLES
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Support the engine.
(4) Remove through bolt nut (Fig. 6). DO NOT re-
move the through bolt.
(5) Remove the retaining bolts and nuts from the
support cushions (Fig. 6).
(6) Remove the through bolt.
(7) Remove the support cushions.
INSTALLATIONÐXJ VEHICLES
(1) If the engine support bracket was removed, po-
sition the LEFT bracket (Fig. 6) and the RIGHT
bracket with generator brace (Fig. 7) onto the cylin-
der block. Install the bolts and stud nuts.
(a) RIGHT SIDE (Fig. 7)ÐTighten the bolts to 61
Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the stud nuts to 46
Nzm (34 ft. lbs.) torque.
(b) LEFT SIDE (Fig. 6)ÐTighten the bolts to 61
Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) If the support cushion brackets were removed,
position the brackets onto the lower front sill (Figs. 6
and 8). Install the bolts and stud nuts. Tighten the
bolts to 54 Nzm (40 ft. lbs.) torque and the stud nuts
to 41 Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Place the support cushions onto the support
cushion brackets (Fig. 6). Tighten the right support
cushion nuts to 65 Nzm (48 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten
the left support cushion bolt and nut to 41 Nzm (30
ft. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 4 Oversize and Undersize Component Codes
Fig. 5 Oversize and Undersize Component Code
Location
9 - 14 2.5L ENGINEJ

(a) Disconnect the power steering hoses from the
fittings at the steering gear.
(b) Drain the pump reservoir.
(c) Cap the fittings on the hoses and steering
gear to prevent foreign material from entering the
system.
(21) Disconnect the coolant hoses from the rear of
the intake manifold.
(22) Identify, tag and disconnect all necessary wire
connectors and vacuum hoses.
(23) Raise the vehicle.
(24) Remove the oil filter.
(25) Remove the starter motor.
(26) Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust
manifold.
(27) Remove the flywheel and converter housing
access cover.
(28) If equipped with an automatic transmission,
mark the converter and drive plate location in refer-
ence to each other and remove the converter-to-drive
plate bolts.(29) Remove the upper flywheel and converter
housing bolts and loosen the bottom bolts.
(30) Remove the engine support cushion-to-engine
compartment bracket bolts.
(31) Remove the engine shock damper bracket
from the sill.
(32) Lower the vehicle.
(33) Attach a lifting device to the engine.
(34) Raise the engine slightly off the front sup-
ports.
(35) Place a support stand under the converter or
flywheel housing.
(36) Remove the remaining bottom converter or
flywheel housing bolts.
(37) Lift the engine out of the engine compartment
and install on an engine stand.
(38) Install the oil filter to keep foreign material
out of the engine.
INSTALLATION
(1) Remove the oil filter.
(2) Lift the engine off the stand and lower it into
the engine compartment. For easier installation, it
may be useful to remove the engine support cushions
from the engine support brackets as an aide for
alignment of the engine-to-transmission.
(3) If equipped with a manual transmission:
(a) Insert the transmission shaft into the clutch
spline.
(b) Align the flywheel housing with the engine.
(c) Install and tighten the flywheel housing lower
bolts finger tight.
(4) If equipped with an automatic transmission:
Fig. 16 Heater Hoses (LH Drive Vehicles), Throttle
Linkage & Quick-Connect Fuel Lines
Fig. 17 Heater Hoses (RH Drive Vehicle)
Fig. 18 Air Cleaner and Power Steering Pump
J2.5L ENGINE 9 - 19

(a) Align the transmission torque converter hous-
ing with the engine.
(b) Loosely install the converter housing lower
bolts and install the next higher bolt and nut on
each side.
(c) Tighten all 4 bolts finger-tight.
(5) Install the engine support cushions (if re-
moved).
(6) Lower the engine and engine support cushions
onto the engine compartment brackets.
(7) Remove the engine lifting device.
(8) Raise the vehicle.
(9) If equipped with an automatic transmission:
(a) Install the converter-to-drive plate bolts. En-
sure the installation reference marks are aligned.
Tighten the bolts to 54 Nzm (40 ft. lbs.) torque.
(b) Install the converter-housing access cover.
(c) Install the exhaust pipe support.
(10) Install the remaining converter or flywheel
housing bolts.
(11) Install the starter motor and connect the ca-
ble. Tighten the bolts to 45 Nzm (33 ft. lbs.) torque.
(12) Tighten the engine support cushing through-
bolt nuts.
(13) Install the remaining flywheel and converter
housing bolts. Tighten the bolts to 38 Nzm (28 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(14) Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold.
(15) Install the oil filter.
(16) Lower the vehicle.
(17) Connect the coolant hoses and tighten the
clamps.
(18) If equipped with power steering:
(a) Remove the protective caps
(b) Connect the hoses to the fittings at the steer-
ing gear. Tighten the nut to 52 Nzm (38 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(c) Fill the pump reservoir with fluid.
(19) Remove the pulley-to-water pump flange
alignment capscrew and install the fan and spacer or
Tempatrol fan assembly.
(20) Install the fan shroud and radiator and con-
denser (if equipped with air conditioning).
(21) Connect the radiator hoses.
(22) Connect the automatic transmission fluid
cooler pipes, if equipped.
(23) Connect the oxygen sensor wire connector.
(24) Connect the throttle valve rod and retainer.
Connect the throttle cable and install the rod. Install
the throttle valve rod spring.
(25) Connect the speed control cable, if equipped.
(26) Connect the fuel supply and return lines to
the throttle body.
(27) Connect all the vacuum hoses and wire con-
nectors.
(28) Connect the service valves to the A/C compres-
sor ports, if equipped with air conditioning.(29) Fill the power steering reservoir.
(30) Connect the battery cables.
(31) Install the hood.
(32) Install the air cleaner.
(33) Start the engine and inspect for leaks.
(34) Fill the cooling system.
(35) Stop the engine and check the fluid levels.
Add fluid, as required.
ENGINE ASSEMBLYÐYJ VEHICLES
REMOVAL
(1) Place a protective cloth over the windshield
frame. Raise the hood and rest it on the windshield
frame (Fig. 19).
(2) Disconnect the battery cable clamps and re-
move the battery.
WARNING: THE COOLANT IN A RECENTLY OPER-
ATED ENGINE IS HOT AND PRESSURIZED. USE
CARE TO PREVENT SCALDING BY HOT COOLANT.
CAREFULLY RELEASE THE PRESSURE BEFORE
REMOVING THE RADIATOR DRAIN COCK AND CAP.
(3) Remove the radiator drain cock and radiator
cap to drain the coolant. DO NOT waste usable cool-
ant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a
clean container for reuse.
(4) Disconnect the wire connectors from the gener-
ator.
(5) Disconnect the ignition coil and distributor wire
connectors.
(6) Disconnect the oil pressure sender wire connec-
tor.
Fig. 19 Hood on Windshield Frame
9 - 20 2.5L ENGINEJ

(7) Disconnect the wires at the starter motor sole-
noid and injection wire harness connector.
(8) Disconnect the quick-connect fuel lines at the
fuel rail and return line by squeezing the two retain-
ing tabs against the fuel tube (Fig. 20). Pull the fuel
tube and retainer from the quick-connect fitting (re-
fer to Group 14, Fuel System for the proper proce-
dure).
(9) Remove the fuel line bracket from the intake
manifold.
(10) Disconnect the engine ground strap.
(11) Remove the air cleaner assembly.
(12) Disconnect the vacuum purge hose at the fuel
vapor canister tee.
(13) Disconnect the idle speed actuator wire con-
nector.
(14) Disconnect the throttle cable and remove it
from the bracket.
(15) Disconnect the throttle rod at the bellcrank.
(16) Disconnect the speed control cable, if
equipped.
(17) Disconnect the oxygen sensor wire connector.
(18) Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses
at the radiator.
(19) Disconnect the coolant hoses from the rear of
the intake manifold and thermostat housing.
(20) Disconnect the heater hoses.
(21) Remove the fan shroud screws.
(22) Remove the radiator attaching bolts.
(23) Remove the radiator and fan shroud.
(24) Remove the fan and spacer or Tempatrol fan
assembly.
(25) Install a 5/16 X 1/2-inch SAE capscrew
through fan pulley into water pump flange. This will
maintain the pulley and water pump in alignment
when crankshaft is rotated.
(26) Remove the power brake vacuum check valve
from the booster, if equipped.
(27) If equipped with power steering:(a) Disconnect the hoses from the fittings at the
steering gear.
(b) Drain the pump reservoir.
(c) Cap the fittings on the hoses and steering
gear to prevent foreign objects from entering the
system.
(28) Lift the vehicle and support it with support
stands.
(29) Remove the oil filter.
(30) Remove the starter motor.
(31) Remove the flywheel housing access cover.
(32) Remove the engine support cushion-to-bracket
through bolts.
(33) Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the mani-
fold.
(34) Remove the upper flywheel housing bolts and
loosen the bottom bolts.
(35) Remove the engine shock damper bracket
from the sill.
(36) Lower the vehicle.
(37) Attach a lifting device to the engine.
(38) Raise the engine off the front supports.
(39) Place a support stand under the flywheel
housing.
(40) Remove the remaining flywheel housing bolts.
(41) Lift the engine out of the engine compartment
and install on an engine stand.
(42) Install the oil filter to keep foreign material
out of the engine.
INSTALLATION
(1) Remove the oil filter.
(2) Lift the engine off the stand and lower it into
the engine compartment. For easier installation, it
may be useful to remove the engine support cushions
from the engine support brackets as an aide for
alignment of the engine-to-transmission.
(3) Insert the transmission shaft into the clutch
spline.
(4) Align the flywheel housing with the engine.
(5) Install and finger tighten the flywheel housing
lower bolts.
(6) Install the engine support cushions (if re-
moved).
(7) Remove the support stand from beneath the
flywheel housing.
(8) Lower the engine and engine support cushions
onto the engine compartment brackets. Ensure that
the bolt holes are aligned. Install the bolts and
tighten.
(9) Remove the engine lifting device.
(10) Raise the vehicle.
(11) Attach the engine shock damper bracket to
the sill.
(12) Attach the exhaust pipe to the manifold. In-
stall and tighten the nuts to 31 Nzm (23 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(13) Install the flywheel housing access cover.
Fig. 20 Fuel Line Quick-Connect Couplings
J2.5L ENGINE 9 - 21