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Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare
wheel. Place the spare
on the wheel mounting surface.
A CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts
might come loose. Your wheel could fall
off, causing a serious
accident.
Replace the wheel
nuts with the rounded
end
of the nuts toward
the wheel.
Tighten each wheel
nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.
Front Position Rear Position
Lower the vehicle by rotating the ratchet and wheel wrench
counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
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Tighten Clockwise Tightening Sequence
t
40
Tighten the
nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown. Rotate the wheel
wrench clockwise.
A CAUTION:
Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can
cause the wheel to become loose and even come
off. This could
lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts.
If you
have to replace them, be sure to get the right kind.
Stop somewhere
as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened
with
a torque wrench to the proper torque.
For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.
Put the wheel trim back on.
For vehicles with plastic wheel
nut caps, tighten the caps until they are
finger tight, then tighten them an additional one-half turn
with the ratchet
and wheel wrench.
Remove any wheel blocks.
Remember, the jack, jacking equipment and tire must be properly stored
in
their original storage position before you begin driving again. The next part,
“Storing the Tire and Jack,”
will show you how.
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I
A ,CAUTION:
Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger
compartment
of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop
or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all
these
in the proper place.
Stowing the
Tire - Under-Body Carrier
Stow the flat tire under the rwr of the vehicle in spare tire carrier. To stow
the flat tire:
1.
AI 3
3.
4.
5.
Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle with the valve stern
pointed down.
Pull the wheel retainer through thc wheel opening.
Attach the ratchet
to the urheel n'rench with the UP marking Facing
you.
Put the other end of the whcel wrench through the rcar bumper access
hole, located at the passenger side edge
of the license plate. Be sure the
wheel wrench connects into the hoist
shaft.
Turn the ratchet clockwise to raise the tire. Keep turning the ratchet
until the tire is all the way up. You will hear two "clicks" when the tire
is secure. Pull on the tire to nuke sure it is tightly secured.
Stowing the Jack and Jacking Tools
Return the jack, ratchet, wheel wrench and jack extensions to their location
behind the passenger's
seat. Stow thc jack and jacking tools as shown in the
illustrations earlier
in this part. Secure the items and replace the jack cover,
if there is one.
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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow
What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels
too fast. The method known as ”rocking” can help you get out when you’re
stuck, but you nlust use caution.
A CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode and you
or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other par\
ts
of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine
compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin th\
e wheels
as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph
(55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
I NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as
the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your
transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains”
in the Index.
Rocking
your vehicle to get it out:
First. turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around
your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE
(R) and a
forward gear (or
with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1 ) or
SECOND (2) gear and REVERSE), spinning the wheels as little as possible.
Release
the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the
accelerator pedal when the transmission
is in gear. If that doesn’t get you
out after a few tries, you may need
to be towed out. Or, you can use your
recovery hooks,
if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out.
see “Towing Your Vehicle”
in the Index.
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What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to
use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants”
in the Index.
C3 (3500 H.D.) Trucks Equipped with Dana Rear Axle
Additional rear axle scheduled maintenance is required on 3500 H.D.
models equipped with Dana rear axles when they are driven under the
following conditions:
0 Extreme loading (at or near GVWR) or trailer towing, and:
Operation above 45 mph for extended periods of time
Vehicles used
in any of these conditions require the rear axle lubricant (SAE
8OW-90 - GL-5) be changed every 3 months or 3,000 miles, whichever
comes first.
To reduce required maintenance, SAE 75W-140 synthetic gear lubricant
may be used. With the use of synthetic
SAE 75W-140 lubricant, the fluid
change intervals may be increased to 30,000 miles. Before using SAE
75W-140, it is important to drain and flush the axle with clean mineral
based (non-synthetic) axle lubricant. Fluid capacity is 4.12 qts. (3.9L).
Four- Wheel Drive
Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive
vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication.
Transfer Case
When to Check Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the
lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections”
in the Index.
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Brake Wear
Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. If you have a C
3500 HD model, it has four-wheel disc brakes.
Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make
a high-pitched
warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The
sound may come and
go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving
(except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).
I A CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that sooner or later your
brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. Whe\
n
you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle
serviced.
NOTICE:
Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in
costly brake repair.
Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the
brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is
wrong with your brakes.
If you have rear drum brakes, they don’t have wear indicators, but if you
ever hear
a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected.
Also, the rear brake drum should be removed and inspected each time the
tires are removed for rotation
or changing. When you have the front brakes
replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.
Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if
there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake
trouble.
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Fender Marker Lamps - Dual Rear Wheel Pickup
Models
I 1. Remove the
4
screws and take
the fender mark
assembly out of
the fender.
I 2. Turn the bulb er
socket to the left
and remove
it
from the lens
assembly.
3. Pull the bulb
straight out
of the
socket.
3. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it is tight.
5. Put the socket back into the lens assembly and turn it to the right to
tighten it.
6. Replace the lens and tighten the screws.
Tailgate Marker Lamps
I. Use a screwdriver to gently pry the lens/bulb assembly from the lens
holder.
2. Unplug the lens/bulb assembly at the connector wire.
3. Plug in a new lens/bulb assembly and push the connector wire into the
hole in the tailgate.
4. Snap the lens/bulb assembly into the lens holder.
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NOTICE:
Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is
all right. It’s not.
If’ your tires don’t have enough air
(underinflation)
you can get:
0 Too much flexing
Too much heat
0 Tire overloading
Bad wear
Bad handling
0 Bad fuel economy.
If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get:
Unusual wear
Bad handling
Rough ride
Needless damage from road hazards.
When to Check
Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the
spare tire.
How to Check
Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. Simply looking
at the tires will not tell you the pressure, especially
if you have radial tires
- which may look properly inflated even if they’re underinflated.
If your tires have valve caps, be sure to put them back on. They help prevent
leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
Tire Inspection and Rotation
Tires should be inspected every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km)
for any signs of unusual wear. If unusual wear is present, rotate your tires as
soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires
or wheels. See “When it’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement”
later in this section for more information.
If your vehicle has dual rear
wheels, also see
“Dual Tire Operation” later in this section.
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