Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfxes,
it’s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction
is so poor
that you will have difficulty accelerating. And
if you do get moving, poor
steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.
Driving In Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems. But heavy rain can
mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it’s deep
enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, don’t try
it - you
probably won’t get through.
Also, water that deep can damage your axle and
other vehicle parts.
If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through it slowly. At fast speeds, water
splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can
also
occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is
under water, you’ll never be able
to start your engine. When you go through
water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to
stop.
If you have
a diesel engine, see “Driving Through Water (Diesel Engines)”
in the Index for more information
on driving through water.
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Driving in the Rain
Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road y\
ou can’t stop,
accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as
on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, \
you’ll get even
less traction.
It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to
fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when \
your
reflexes
are tuned for driving on dry pavement.
The heavier the rain, the harder it
is to see. Even if your windshield wiper
blades
are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs
and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even
people walking.
It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and \
keep your windshield washer tank filled. Replace your windshield wiper ins\
erts when
they show signs
of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when
strips
of rubber start to separate from the inserts.
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Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform, safety chains,
electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your
vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the
trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets
you check your electrical connection at
the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and
that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when
driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help
you avoid situations that
require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer.
And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to
go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before
you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the
trailer to the left, just move that hand to the
left. To move the trailer to the
right, move your hand to
the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible?
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this
so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other
objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a different turn signal
flasher and extra wiring. The green arrows
on your instrument panel will
flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lights will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn,
change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash
for turns even if the bulbs
on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think
drivers behind you are seeing your signal when
they are not. It’s important
to check occasionally
to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
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A CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is
not fully in “P” (Park) with the parking brake firmly set. Your
vehicle can roll.
If’ you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move
suddenly. You or others could be injured.
To be sure your vehicle
won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the
steps that follow.
If you have four-wheel drive and your transfer case is in “N”
(Neutral), your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever
is in
“P” (Park). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear
- not in “N” (Neutral).
If you are parking on a hill, or if you’re pulling a trailer, also see
“Parking
On Hills” in the Index.
When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
0 Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See
the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially
important in trailer operation are automatic
fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil,
axle lubricant, belts, cooling system, and brake adjustment. Each of these
is
covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If
you’re trailering, it’s
a good idea to review these sections before you start
your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.
Trailer Light Wiring
See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index.
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..I . ... . ;. ..
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster
to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day
driving conditions
the fan is spinning slower and clutch is not fully engaged.
This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle
loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as
the clutch more fully engages. So you may hear an increase in
fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required
and
the clutch partially disengages.
You may also hear
this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as
the fan clutch partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s UfluSual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to
leak
out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,’’ here are a few tips
about what
to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle
toward that side. Take your foot off
the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a
stop well
out of the traffic lane.
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Fuel Requirements
NOTICE:
Diesel fuel or fuel additives not recommended in this manual
could damage your fuel system and engine. Your warranty
wouldn’t cover this damage. And:
Diesel fuel that has been mixed with engine oil could damage
your engine and emission controls. Always check with your
service station operator to make sure his diesel fuel has not
been mixed with engine oil.
If you ever run out of diesel fuel, it can be difficult to restart
your engine. “Running Out of Fuel,” later in this section, tells
you how to get it started again.
To avoid all this, try never to
let your tank get empty.
What Fuel to Use
For best results, use number 2-D diesel fuel year-round (above and below
freezing conditions) as oil companies blend number
2-D fuel to address
climate differences. Number
1-D diesel fuel may be used in below freezing
weather, however, it will produce a power and
fuel economy loss. The use
of number
1-D diesel fuel in warm or hot climates may result in stalling,
poor starting when the engine
is hot and may damage the fuel injection
system.
Diesel fuel may foam when you fill your tank. This can cause the automatic
pump nozzle to shut off, even though your tank isn’t full. If this happens,
just wait for the foaming to stop and then continue to
fill your tank.
A CAUTION:
Heat coming from the engine may cause the fuel to expand and
force the fuel out of your tank. If something ignites the fuel,
a
fire could start and people could be burned. To help avoid this,
fill your fuel tank only until the automatic nozzle shuts
off.
Don’t try to “top it off.”
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1
I 4. With the engine
off, open the
water drain valve
2 to 3 turns.
When standing
in
front of the
vehicle, the valve
is located on the
right side of the
thermostat
housing.
5. Start the engine and allow it to idle until clear fuel is observed.
6. Stop the engine and close the water drain valve.
7. Remove the fuel-resistant container and properly dispose of the
contaminated
fuel. To find out how to properly dispose of contaminated
diesel fuel see “What to Do with Used
Oil” in the “Engine Oil (Diesel
Engines)” part, later
in this section.
8. Install the fuel tank cap.
If the WATER IN FUEL light comes on again after driving a short distance
or
the engine runs rough or stalls-a large amount of water has probably
been pumped into the fuel tank. The
fuel tank should be purged.
A CAUTION:
Diesel fuel containing water is still flammable. You could be
burned. If
you ever try to drain water from your fuel, keep
sparks, flames
and smoking materials away from the mixture.
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