1994 CHEVROLET BLAZER tow

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Towing From the Front
NOTICE:
Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the front bumper
system will be damaged.
Use wheel
lift or car-carrier equipment.
Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment.
Use safety chains and wheel straps.
If your vehicle has the four-wheel drive option, a dolly MUST be
used under the rear wheels when towing from the front.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Towing From the Rear
NOTICE:
Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the rear bumper
system will be damaged.
Use wheel lift or car-carrier equipment.
Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps.
If your vehicle has the four-wheel drive option, a dolly MUST be
used under the front wheels when towing from the rear.
Don’t have your vehicle towed on the rear wheels, unless
you have to. If the
vehicle must
be towed on the rear wheels, don’t go more than 35 mph (56
km/h) or farther than 50 miles (80 km) or your transmission will be
damaged.
If these limits must be exceeded, then the rear drive wheels have
to be supported on
a dolly.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may
not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer.
If
you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute
or so:
1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the
3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to “N” (Neutral).
window as
necessary.
If
you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe,
drive slower for about
ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on,
you can drive normally.
If
the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, push
the accelerator until the engine speed is
about twice as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to
normal idle speed after two
or three minutes. Now see if the warning stops.
But then, if you still have the warning, TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND
GET EVERYONE OUT OF THE VEHICLE until it cools down.
You may decide not to
lift the hood but to get service help right away.
When
you decide it’s
safe to
lift the hood,
here’s what you’ll see:
A. Coolant recovery
B. Radiator pressure
C. Engine fan tank
cap
If the
coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything
else until
it cools down.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster to provide more air
to cool the engine. In most every day
driving conditions the clutch is
not engaged. This improves fuel economy
and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or
high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages.
So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be
mistaken as
the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the
cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when
additional cooling
is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as the fan clutch disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely
to
leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips
about what to expect and what
to do:
If a front tire fails,
the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle
toward
that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a
stop well
out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may
require the same correction you’d
use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove
your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and
noisy, but
you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if
possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next section shows how to use your jacking equipment
to change a flat tire safely.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts
might cum@ loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious
accident.
~~
Put on the spare tire.
Put the nuts
on by
hand.
Make sure the
cone-shaped end is
toward the wheel.
Tighten each
nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. If a nut
can't be turned by hand, use the wheel wrench and see your dealer as soon
as possible.
Lower the vehicle by
rotating the wheel
wrench
to the left.
Lower the jack
completely.
si:..
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Rocking your vehicle to get it out:
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around
your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between “R” (Reverse) and
a
forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between First or Second gear
and Reverse), spinning the wheels
as little as possible. Release the
accelerator pedal while
you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal
when the transmission
is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries,
you may need to be towed out. Or,
you can use your recovery hooks, if your
vehicle has them.
If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your
Vehicle”
in the Index.
Using the Recovery Hooks
I
If you ever get stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow, your vehicle may be
equipped with recovery hooks.
The recovery hooks are provided at the front
of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road and
need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine ..... . ..
8
NOTICE:
Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle
could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.
5 -34

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Fuel
The 8th digit of your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code
letter for your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of your
instrument panel. (See “Vehicle Identification Number”
in the Index.)
Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at
87 octane or higher. With the 4.3L
(Code W) engine, use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or
higher for high power performance, when towing a trailer or with a high
payload requirement. But when operating with a light load as a normal
condition, you may use middle grade or regular unleaded gasolines.
The gasoline you use should meet specifications ASTM D48 14 in the
U.S.
and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives,
so you should not have to add anything to the fuel.
In the U.S. and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of
gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see “UNLEADED” right on the pump. And only
unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck.
Be sure the posted octane is at least 9
1 for premium, 89 for middle grade
and
87 for regular. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy
knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your
engine.
If you’re using fuel rated at
91 octane or higher and you still hear heavy
knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little
pinging noise when you’re accelerating
or driving up a hill. That’s normal,
and you don’t have
to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of it. It’s the heavy,
constant knock that means
you have a problem.
What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen
(oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol?
MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.” Fuel that is no more than 15%
MTBE is fine for your vehicle.
Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than
10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle.
Methanol is methyl or wood alcohol.
NOTICE:
Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle.
Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel syst\
em and
also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be
covered under your warranty. And even at
5% or less, there
must be “cosolvents” and corrosion preventers in this fuel\
to
help avoid these problems.
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