1994 CHEVROLET BLAZER manual transmission

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key off. The steering
wheel should
be clamped in a straight-ahead position with a clamping
device designed for towing service.
Do not use the vehicle’s steering
column lock for this. The transmission (either automatic
or manual) should
be in
“N’ (Neutral) and the transfer case (either manual shift or electronic
shift), if
you have one, should be in 2 WHEEL (two-wheel drive). The
parking brake should be released.
5-8

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Towing From the Rear
NOTICE:
Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the rear bumper
system will be damaged.
Use wheel lift or car-carrier equipment.
Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps.
If your vehicle has the four-wheel drive option, a dolly MUST be
used under the front wheels when towing from the rear.
Don’t have your vehicle towed on the rear wheels, unless
you have to. If the
vehicle must
be towed on the rear wheels, don’t go more than 35 mph (56
km/h) or farther than 50 miles (80 km) or your transmission will be
damaged.
If these limits must be exceeded, then the rear drive wheels have
to be supported on
a dolly.
5-10

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster to provide more air
to cool the engine. In most every day
driving conditions the clutch is
not engaged. This improves fuel economy
and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or
high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages.
So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be
mistaken as
the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the
cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when
additional cooling
is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as the fan clutch disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely
to
leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips
about what to expect and what
to do:
If a front tire fails,
the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle
toward
that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a
stop well
out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may
require the same correction you’d
use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove
your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and
noisy, but
you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if
possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next section shows how to use your jacking equipment
to change a flat tire safely.
5-18

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine If you have a floor-mounted spare tire and it has an aluminum wheel, place
the hook in the floor ring before placing
it through the wheel.
If you have a endgate-mounted spare tire carrier, tighten the nuts to 22-32
ft. lb. (30-40 Nem) torque.
If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow
What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your
wheels. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re
stuck, but you must use caution.
I NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well\
as
the tires.
If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your
transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission. \
5-32

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Rocking your vehicle to get it out:
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around
your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between “R” (Reverse) and
a
forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between First or Second gear
and Reverse), spinning the wheels
as little as possible. Release the
accelerator pedal while
you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal
when the transmission
is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries,
you may need to be towed out. Or,
you can use your recovery hooks, if your
vehicle has them.
If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your
Vehicle”
in the Index.
Using the Recovery Hooks
I
If you ever get stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow, your vehicle may be
equipped with recovery hooks.
The recovery hooks are provided at the front
of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road and
need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.
5-33

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Service & Appearance Care
Section
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle . This part
begins with service and fuel information. and then
it shows how to check
important fluid and lubricant levels
. There is also technical information
about your vehicle. and a section devoted to
its appearance care .
Service ................................................... 6-2
Fuel
..................................................... 6-3
Checking Things Under the Hood
.............................. 6-6
Engineoil
.............................................. 6-8
Aircleaner
............................................ 6-14
Automatic Transmission Fluid
............................. 6-15
Manual Transmission Fluid
............................... 6-18
Hydraulic Clutch ........................................ 6-20
RearAxle
............................................. 6-20
Transfer Case
.......................................... 6-21
FrontAxle
............................................. 6-22
Enginecoolant
......................................... 6-23
Power Steering Fluid
.................................... 6-26
Windshield Washer Fluid
................................. 6-28
Brake Master Cylinder
................................... 6-29
Replacing Brake System Parts
................................ 6-30
Battery
.................................................. 6-31
Vehiclestorage
......................................... 6-31
Bulb Replacement
......................................... 6-32
Other Maintenance Items
.................................... 6-35
Loading Your Vehicle
...................................... 6-39
Tires .................................................... 6-42
Appearance Care
.......................................... 6-49
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
.......................... 6-58
Service Parts Identification Label
............................. 6-60
Fuses and Circuit Breakers
.................................. 6-60
Capacities and Specifications Charts
........................... 6-62
6-1

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine NOTICE:
If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine
fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage
it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.
Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the
engine
oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine
when
to change your fluid. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the
Index.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this
done at a
GM dealership Service Department.
If
you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could
get
a false reading on the dipstick.
NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too
much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on
hot engine parts or exhaust system, starting
a fire. Be sure to get
an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.
6-15

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you
have been driving:
0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
At high speed for quite a while.
0 In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating
temperature, which is 180°F
to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).
To check transmission fluid hot: Get the vehicle warmed up by driving
about
15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C).
If it’s colder than 50°F (lO”C), drive the vehicle in “D” (3rd Gear) until the
engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for ten minutes.
Then follow
the hot check procedures.
To check transmissionfluid cold: A cold check is made after the vehicle has
been sitting for eight hours or more
with the engine off and is used only as a
reference. Let the engine run at idle for
five minutes if outside temperatures
are
50°F (10°C) or more. If it’s colder than 50°F (lO”C), you may have to
idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check,
you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a
more accurate reading of
the fluid level.
To check the fluid hot or cold
0 Park your vehicle on a level place.
0 With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in “P’ (Park).
With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each
gear range, pausing for about three seconds
in each range. Then,
position the shift lever in “P” (Park).
Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
6-16