1993 CHEVROLET PLYMOUTH ACCLAIM tire type

WARNING: THE SELF ADJUSTING FEATURE OF THIS
PARKING BRAKE LEVER ASSEMBLY CONTAINS A
CLOCK SPRING LOADED TO APPROXIMATELY 30
POUNDS. CARE MUST BE TAKEN TO PREVENT EX-
CESSIVE JARRING OF THE ASSEMBLY. DO NOT
RELEASE THE SELF ADJUSTER LOCKOUT DEVICE
BEFORE INSTALLING CABLES INTO THE EQUAL-
IZER. KEEP HANDS OUT OF SELF ADJUSTER SEC-
TOR AND PAWL AREA. FAILURE TO OBSERVE CAU-
TION IN HANDLING THIS MECHANISM COULD LEAD
TO SERIOUS INJURY.
When repairs to the hand lever assembly or cable
system are required the self adjuster must be reloaded
and locked out.
SELF ADJUSTING PROCEDURES (AG & AJ BODY)
TO RELOAD SELF ADJUSTER
(1) Remove ash receiver or courtesy light from rear
of center console to gain access to self adjuster. Also,
remove carpet from sides of console. (2) Pull on equalizer/output cable to wind up sprin-
g(requires greater than 30 pounds effort). Continue
until self adjuster lockout pawl is positioned about
midway on the self adjuster sector (Fig. 6). Rotate
lockout pawl into self adjuster sector by turning allen
screw clockwise. Rotating lockout device requires
very little effort. Do not force or failure of lock-
out device will occur. (3) When repairs are complete, adjust rear brakes
before adjusting parking brake. On drum-in-hat type of
rear disc brake adjust shoe diameter to 171.5 mm (6.75
inch).
ADJUST PARKING BRAKE (AG & AJ BODY)
Be sure that the cables are properly assembled to the
equalizer bracket prior to cable adjustment. (1) Insert a 7/32 inch allen wrench into hex socket
and turn counter-clockwise through approximately 15É
of rotation (Fig. 4). In turning lockout device, self
adjuster release is a loud snapping noise followed by
reaching a more felt than heard detent. Very light
effort is required to seat lockout arm into detent.
Follow through to the detent is important in prevent-
ing the lockout rod from rattling. Note: The parking brake handle can be in any
position when releasing self adjuster. (2) Cycle lever to position cables. Rear wheels should
rotate freely without dragging.
REAR PARKING BRAKE CABLE REMOVAL (AA, AC,
AP, AY BODY)
The rear brake cables are attached to rear connec-
tors. Should it become necessary to remove either parking
brake cable for installation of a new cable, proceed as
follows: With vehicle jacked up on a suitable hoist, remove
wheel and tire assembly (Fig. 6). Back off cable adjusting nut to provide slack and
disconnect rear brake cable from connector.
DRUM BRAKES
(1) Disconnect park brake cable from park brake
lever in rear wheel brakes. (2) Using an aircraft type hose clamp compress re-
tainers on end of cable housing and start cable out of
retaining hole in the support plate. Remove clamp
when retainers are free of the mounting hole in the
support plate, (Fig. 6).
(3) Remove clip from brake cable at support
bracket and pull cable away from trailing arm as-
sembly (Figs. 3 and 4).
DISC BRAKES
(1) Remove disc brake caliper from adapter, and
brake disc (rotor) from rear hub.
Fig. 5 Self Adjusting Parking Brake Lever Assembly
Fig. 6 Removing Brake Cable from Support Plate
Ä BRAKES 5 - 61

(2) Disconnect parking brake cable from brake
shoe lever. (3) Using an aircraft type hose clamp compress re-
tainers on end of cable housing and start cable out of
retaining hole in the adapter. Remove clamp when
retainers are free of mounting hole in the adapter
(Fig. 6). (4) Remove clip from parking brake cable at
hanger bracket and pull cable away from trailing
arm.
REAR PARKING BRAKE CABLE INSTALLATION
DRUM BRAKES (AA, AC, AP, AY BODY)
(1) Route parking brake cable assembly through
trailing arm and hanger bracket. (2) Install parking brake cable retaining clip.
(3) Install parking brake cable into rear brake sup-
port plate. Be sure all retainers are expanded around
mounting hole in brake support plate, and then con-
nect parking brake cable end to brake shoe lever. (4) Insert forward end of parking brake cable into
connector. (5) Install brake drum, and wheel and tire assem-
bly.
DRUM BRAKES (AG & AJ BODY)
(1) Route each parking brake cable assembly
through trailing arm and mounting bracket. (2) Install parking brake cable retaining clip.
(3) Install parking brake cable into rear brake sup-
port plate. Be sure the retainers are expanded
around mounting hole in the brake support plate and
connect parking brake cable end to brake shoe lever. (4) Insert forward end of parking brake cable into
floor pan of vehicle. Then connector park brake cable
to equalizer at park brake hand lever. (5) Install brake drum, and wheel and tire assem-
bly.
DISC BRAKES (AA, AC, AP, AY BODY)
(1) Route parking brake cable assembly through
trailing arm and parking brake cable hanger
bracket. (2) Install parking brake cable to hanger bracket
retaining clip. (3) Install parking brake cable into rear brake
adapter. Be sure all cable retainers on parking brake
cable are expanded around mounting hole in adapter
and connect cable end to brake shoe lever. (4) Insert forward end of cable into connector.
(5) Adjust parking brake shoe diameter to 171 mm
(6.75 inch). (6) Install rear braking disc, caliper assembly and
wheel and tire assembly.
DISC BRAKES (AG & AJ BODY)
(1) Route each individual parking brake cable as-
sembly through trailing arm and parking brake ca-
ble mounting bracket. (2) Install parking brake cable to mounting
bracket retaining clip. (3) Install parking brake cable into rear disc brake
adapter. Be sure all cable retainers on parking brake
cable are expanded around mounting hole in adapter,
and then connect cable end to brake shoe lever. (4) Insert forward end of parking brake cable into
floor pan of vehicle. Then connector park brake cable
to equalizer at park brake hand lever. (5) Adjust parking brake shoe diameter to 171 mm
(6.75 inch). (6) Install rear braking disc, caliper assembly and
wheel and tire assembly.
REMOVING PARKING BRAKE FRONT CABLE (AA,
AC, AP, AY BODY)
(1) Loosen parking brake cable adjusting nut un-
der car. Disengage front cable from intermediate ca-
ble connector (Fig. 2). (2) Remove park brake cable retaining clip from
floor pan of vehicle. (3) Lift floor mat for access to floor pan.
(4) Remove floor pan seal.
(5) Pull parking brake cable strand end forward
and disconnect from foot lever clevis. Separate park-
ing brake cable from parking brake foot lever and
bracket on body rail. (6) Pull parking brake cable assembly through
hole in floor pan and up into vehicle.
INSTALLING PARKING BRAKE FRONT CABLE (AA,
AC, AP AY Body)
(1) Insert parking brake cable housing retainers
into hole in rail bracket and parking brake foot lever
assembly (Fig. 2). (2) Feed parking brake cable end through holes in
floor pan and rail bracket, from the interior of the
vehicle. (3) Install floor pan seal.
(4) Engage parking brake cable strand end in foot
lever clevis. Seat cable ends in parking brake assem-
bly and parking brake cable rail bracket. (5) Replace floor mat.
(6) Attach park brake cable retaining clip to floor
pan of vehicle. (7) Engage rear parking brake cable end to inter-
mediate cable connector. (8) Adjust service and parking brakes.
5 - 62 BRAKES Ä

(7) Unfasten brackets on steel heater water line at
dash panel and left frame rail. On Manual Transmis-
sion vehicles, unfasten clutch cable bracket at shock
tower and move aside. (8) Slide the power brake unit up and to the left
(mounting holes are slotted) on the dash panel, then
tilt inboard and up to remove.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to disassemble power
brake unit as this booster is serviced ONLY as a
complete assembly.
INSTALL (1) Position power brake booster onto dash panel.
(2) Install and tighten the 4 power brake booster to
dash panel mounting nuts (Fig. 5) to 29 N Im (250 in.
lbs.) torque. (3) Install steel heater water line and clutch cable
bracket, if so equipped. (4) Carefully position master cylinder on power
brake unit. (5) Install and tighten the 2 master cylinder to
power booster mounting nuts (Fig. 4) to 29 N Im (250
in. lbs.) torque. (6) Connect vacuum hose onto the check valve, lo-
cated on the power brake unit. (7) Using lubriplate, or equivalent, coat the bearing
surface of pedal pin (Fig. 5). (8) Connect power brake booster input rod to brake
pedal pin and install a NEW retainer clip. Use only a
new retainer clip DO NOT USE the old clip. (9) Check stop light operation.
WHEEL BEARINGS
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS
Front wheel drive vehicles are equipped with per-
manently sealed front wheel bearings. There is no
periodic lubrication or maintenance recommended for
these units. However if during servicing of the brake
system, service to the front wheel bearing is required
refer to Group 2, Suspension in this service manual.
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS
NORMAL SERVICE
The lubricant in the rear wheel bearings should be
inspected whenever the hubs are removed to inspect
or service the brake system. Or at least every 30,000
miles (48,000 km). The bearings should be cleaned
and repacked with a High Temperature Multipurpose
E.P. Grease whenever the disc brake rotors are re-
surfaced.
INSPECTION
Check lubricant to see that it is adequate in quan-
tity and quality. If the grease is low in quantity, con-
tains dirt, appears dry or has been contaminated
with water, it will appear milky. The bearings then must be cleaned and repacked.
Do not add grease to
a wheel bearing that already has grease packed
in it. Relubricate completely. Mixing of different
types of greases in wheel bearings should be
avoided since it may result in excessive thinning
and leakage of the grease.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
For the servicing, removal and installation of the
rear wheel bearings follow the procedure listed below. (1) Remove the rear tire and wheel assembly.
(2) On rear disc brake equipped vehicles remove the
caliper and rotor. Support the caliper out of the way.
Do not allow the caliper to hang by the hydraulic
hose. See disc brake section in this group for caliper
removal procedure. (3) Remove grease cap, cotter pin, nut lock, nut,
thrust washer and outer wheel bearing. (4) Carefully slide hub or drum from spindle. Do not
drag inner bearing or grease seal over stub axle
(thread, bearing, and oil seal may be damaged.) Using
an appropriate tool remove the grease seal and inner
bearing from the drum or hub. Discard grease
Fig. 5 Power Brake Booster Mounting
5 - 70 BRAKES Ä

stant velocity joint housings. The rear Tone Wheels
are serviced as an assembly with the rear disc brake
rotor hub. Correct Anti-Lock System operation is dependent
on wheel speed signals from the wheel speed sensors.
The vehicles' wheels and tires must all be the same
size and type to generate accurate signals. In addi-
tion, the tires must be inflated to the recommended
pressures for optimum system operation. Variations
in wheel and tire size or significant variations in in-
flation pressure can produce inaccurate wheel speed
signals.
CONTROLLER ANTI-LOCK BRAKE (CAB)
The Anti-Lock Brake Controller is a small micro-
processor based device that monitors the brake sys- tem and controls the system while it functions in
Anti-Lock Mode. The CAB is located under the bat-
tery tray and is mounted to the left frame rail (Fig.
7) and uses a 60-way system connector. The power
source for the CAB is through the ignition switch to
pin 60 of the controller. With the ignition in the
RUN or ON position. IF THE (ABS) CONTROL-
LER NEEDS TO BE REPLACED BE SURE THE
CORRECT CONTROLLER IS USED. THE CON-
TROLLER ANTI-LOCK BRAKE (CAB) IS NOT
ON THE CCD BUS
Fig. 5 Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
Fig. 4 Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Fig. 6 Rear Tone Wheel
Fig. 7 Location Controller Anti-Lock Brake (CAB)
5 - 80 ANTI-LOCK 10 BRAKE SYSTEM Ä

PROPORTIONING VALVES
Two Proportioning Valves (Fig. 3) are used in the
system, one for each rear brake hydraulic circuit.
The Proportioning Valves function the same as in a
standard brake system. The Proportioning Valves are
located on the bottom of the hydraulic assembly (Fig.
1). They are the same screw in type as the ones used
on the Bendix Anti-Lock 10 and Bosh Anti-Lock
Brake systems.
WHEEL SPEED SENSORS
One Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS), is located at each
wheel (Fig. 4 and 5), and sends a small (AC) signal
to the control module (CAB). This signal is generated
by magnetic induction. The magnetic induction is
created, when a toothed sensor ring Tone Wheel (Fig.
6) passes a stationary magnetic Wheel Speed Sensor.
The (CAB) converts the (AC) signal generated at
each wheel into a digital signal. If a wheel locking
tendency is detected, the (CAB) will then modulate
hydraulic pressure to prevent the wheel(s) from lock-
ing. The front Wheel Speed Sensor is attached to a boss
in the steering knuckle (Fig. 4). The tone wheel is
part of the outboard constant velocity joint. The rear
Wheel Speed Sensor is mounted to the caliper adap-
tor (Fig. 5) and the rear tone wheel is an integral
part of the rear wheel hub (Fig. 6). The speed sensor
air gap is NOT adjustable. The four Wheel Speed Sensors are serviced individ-
ually. The front Tone Wheels are serviced as an as-
sembly with the outboard constant velocity joint. The
rear Tone Wheels are serviced as an assembly with
the rear brake hub. Correct Anti-Lock system operation is dependent
on the vehicle's wheel speed signals, that are gener-
ated by the Wheel Speed Sensors. The vehicle's
wheels and tires must all be the same size and type
to generate accurate signals. In addition, the tires
must be inflated to the recommended pressures for
optimum system operation. Variations in wheel and
tire size or significant variations in inflation pres-
sure can produce inaccurate wheel speed signals.
Fig. 3 Proportioning Valve Identification
Fig. 4 Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Fig. 5 Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
5 - 118 ANTI-LOCK 6 BRAKE SYSTEM Ä

WHEEL SPEED SENSORS
One Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS), is located at each
wheel (Fig. 5 and 6), and sends a small AC signal to the
control module CAB. This signal is generated by mag-
netic induction. The magnetic induction is created,
when a toothed sensor ring (Tone Wheel) (Fig. 7) passes
a stationary magnetic Wheel Speed Sensor. The CAB
converts the AC signal generated at each wheel into a
digital signal. If a wheel locking tendency is detected,
the CAB will then modulate hydraulic pressure to pre-
vent the wheel or wheels from locking.
The front Wheel Speed Sensor is attached to a boss
in the steering knuckle (Fig. 5). The tone wheel is
part of the outboard constant velocity joint (Fig. 5). The rear Wheel Speed Sensor is mounted to the cal-
iper adapter (Fig. 6) and the rear tone wheel is an
integral part of the rear wheel hub (Fig. 7). The
speed sensor air gap is NOT adjustable.
The four Wheel Speed Sensors are serviced individ-
ually. The front Tone Wheels are serviced as an as-
sembly with the outboard constant velocity joint. The
rear Tone Wheels are serviced as an assembly with
the rear brake hub. Correct Antilock system operation is dependent on
the vehicle's wheel speed signals, that are generated
by the Wheel Speed Sensors. The vehicle's wheels
and tires must all be the same size and type to gen-
erate accurate signals. In addition, the tires must be
inflated to the recommended pressures for optimum
system operation. Variations in wheel and tire size
or significant variations in inflation pressure can
produce inaccurate wheel speed signals.
CONTROLLER ANTILOCK BRAKE CAB
The Antilock Brake Controller is a small micropro-
cessor based device which monitors the brake system
and controls the system while it functions in the An-
tilock mode. The CAB is mounted on the top of the
right front frame rail and uses a 60-way system con-
nector (Fig. 8). The power source for the CAB is
through the ignition switch in the Run or On posi-
tion. THE CONTROLLER ANTILOCK BRAKE
CAB IS NOT ON THE CCD BUS The primary functions of the CAB are:
(1) Detect wheel locking tendencies.
(2) Control fluid modulation to the brakes while in
Antilock mode. (3) Monitor the system for proper operation.
Fig. 5 Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Fig. 6 Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
Fig. 7 Rear Tone Wheel (Typical)
5 - 18 ANTILOCK 4 BRAKE SYSTEM Ä

When testing secondary cables for punctures and
cracks with an oscilloscope follow the equipment
manufacturers instructions. If an oscilloscope is not available, secondary cables
can be tested as follows:
CAUTION: Do not leave any one spark plug cable
disconnected any longer than necessary during test-
ing. Excessive heat could damage the catalytic con-
verter. Total test time must not exceed ten minutes.
(a) With the engine not running, connect one end
of a test probe to a good ground. Use a probe made of
insulated wire with insulated alligator clips on each
end. (b) With engine running, move test probe along
entire length of all cables (approximately 0 to 1/8
inch gap). If punctures or cracks are present there
will be a noticeable spark jump from the faulty area
to the probe. Check the coil cable the same way.
Replace cracked, leaking or faulty cables.
When replacing cables, install the new high
tension cable and nipple assembly over cap or
coil tower. When entering the terminal into the
tower, push lightly, then pinch the large diam-
eter of nipple to release air trapped between the
nipple and tower. Continue pushing on the cable
and nipple until cables are properly seated in the
cap towers. A snap should be heard as terminal
goes into place. Use the same procedure to install cable in coil tower.
Wipe the spark plug insulator clean before reinstalling
cable and cover. Use the following procedure when removing the high
tension cable from the spark plug. First, remove the
cable from the retaining bracket. Then grasp the ter-
minal as close as possible to the spark plug. Rotate the
cover and pull the cable straight back. Pulling on the
cable itself will damage the conductor and termi-
nal connection. Do not use pliers and do not pull
the cable at an angle. Doing so will damage the
insulation, cable terminal or the spark plug in-
sulator. Wipe spark plug insulator clean before
reinstalling cable and cover. Resistance type cable is identified by the words
Electronic Suppression printed on the cable jacket.
Use an ohmmeter to check resistance type cable for
open circuits, loose terminals or high resistance as
follows: (a) Remove cable from spark plug.
(b) Lift distributor cap from distributor with
cables intact. Do not remove cables from cap. The
cables must be removed from the spark plugs. (c) Connect the ohmmeter between spark plug end
terminal and the corresponding electrode inside the
cap, make sure ohmmeter probes are in good contact.
Resistance should be within tolerance shown in the cable resistance chart. If resistance is
not within tolerance, remove cable at cap tower
and check the cable. If resistance is still not within
tolerance, replace cable assembly. Test all spark
plug cables in same manner.
To test coil to distributor cap high tension cable,
remove distributor cap with the cable intact. Do not
remove cable from the cap. Connect the ohmmeter
between center contact in the cap and remove the ca-
ble at coil tower and check cable resistance. If resis-
tance is not within tolerance, replace the cable.
SPARK PLUGS
Resistor spark plugs are used in all engines and
have resistance values of 6,000 to 20,000 ohms when
checked with at least a 1000 volt tester. Remove the spark plugs and examine them for
burned electrodes and fouled, cracked or broken por-
celain insulators. Keep plugs arranged in the order
in which they were removed from the engine. An iso-
lated plug displaying an abnormal condition indi-
cates that a problem exists in the corresponding
cylinder. Replace spark plugs at the intervals recom-
mended in Group O. Undamaged low milage spark plugs can be cleaned
and reused. Refer to the Spark Plug Condition sec-
tion of this group. After cleaning, file the center elec-
trode flat with a small point file or jewelers file.
Adjust the gap between the electrodes (Fig. 6) to the
dimensions specified in the chart at the end of this
section. Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion and change
spark plug gap. Tighten spark plugs to 28 N Im (20 ft.
lbs.) torque.
SPARK PLUG CONDITION
NORMAL OPERATING CONDITIONS
The few deposits present will be probably light tan
or slightly gray in color with most grades of commer-
cial gasoline (Fig. 7). There will not be evidence of
electrode burning. Gap growth will not average more
than approximately 0.025 mm (.001 in) per 1600 km
(1000 miles) of operation. Spark plugs that have nor-
mal wear can usually be cleaned, have the electrodes
filed and regapped, and then reinstalled. Some fuel refiners in several areas of the United
States have introduced a manganese additive (MMT)
CABLE RESISTANCE CHART
Ä IGNITION SYSTEMS 8D - 3

INSTALLATION
(1) Install antenna body and cable from under-
neath fender (Fig. 12). (2) Install gasket, adapter, and cap nut. Tighten
cap nut to 14 N Im (125 in. lbs.) with Antenna Nut
Wrench C-4816. (3) Install antenna mast into antenna body until
sleeve bottoms on antenna body (Fig. 11). (4) Route cable to radio if necessary.
BENCH TEST FOR ANTENNA MALFUNCTION
It is also possible to check short or open circuits
with an ohmmeter or continuity light once the an-
tenna has been removed from the vehicle. (1) Continuity should be present between the tip of
the mast and radio end pin (Fig. 13 and 14).
(2) No continuity should be observed or a very high
resistance of several megohms between the ground
shell of the connector and radio end pin.
(3) Continuity should be observed between the ground
shell of the connector and the mounting hardware.
Wiggle cable over its entire length to reveal inter-
mittent short or open circuits during step 1, 2 and 3.
POWER ANTENNA
OPERATION
The power operated radio antenna (Fig. 15) is a
telescoping type antenna, extended and retracted by a
reversible electric motor. The Automatic Power Antenna is controlled by a
combination of an external relay and limit switches
built into the antenna motor housing. The antenna is
actuated when radio is switched ON and the ignition
switch in ON or ACCESSORY position. The antenna
mast should extend. When the ignition switch or radio
is turned OFF the antenna mast should fully retract
and declutch.
Many antenna problems may be avoided by frequent
cleaning of the antenna mast telescoping sections. Clean
the antenna mast sections with a clean soft cloth.
Before an antenna is removed, the antenna perfor-
mance should be tested to decide if it is a reception
problem or an operational problem. Whenever an operational malfunction occurs, first
verify that the radio antenna wire harness is properly
connected. Check all connectors before starting normal
diagnosis and repair procedures. Refer to Power An-
tenna Electrical Diagnosis Chart (Fig. 16).
Fig. 12 Antenna Mounting
Fig. 11 Removing or Tightening Antenna Cap Nut
Fig. 13 Antenna Bench Test Points
Fig. 14 Antenna Bench Test PointsÐTwo Part
Ä AUDIO SYSTEM 8F - 21