1993 CHEVROLET PLYMOUTH ACCLAIM gas type

ENGINE INDEX
page page
Engine Oil Filter .......................... 9
Battery ................................ 15
Crankcase Ventilation System ............... 13
Drive Belts ............................. 14
Emission Control System ................... 14
Engine Air Cleaner ....................... 11
Engine Cooling System .................... 10 Engine Oil
............................... 8
Frequency of Engine Oil and Filter Changes ..... 8
Fuel Filter .............................. 14
Fuel Recommendations .................... 14
Ignition Cables, Distributor Cap, and Rotor ..... 14
Rubber and Plastic Component Inspection ...... 15
Spark Plugs ............................ 14
FREQUENCY OF ENGINE OIL AND FILTER
CHANGES
ENGINE OIL
Road conditions as well as your kind of driving af-
fect the interval at which your oil should be changed.
Check the following to determine if any apply to you:
² Frequent short trip driving less than 8 kilometers
(5 miles)
² Frequent driving in dusty conditions
² Frequent trailer towing
² Extensive idling (such as vehicle operation in stop
and go traffic)
² More than 50% of your driving is at sustained
high speeds during hot weather, above 32ÉC (90ÉF) If any of these apply to you then change your en-
gine oil every 4 800 kilometers (3,000 miles) or 3
months, whichever comes first. If none of these apply to you then change your oil
every 12 000 kilometers (7,500 miles) or 6 months,
whichever comes first. If none of these apply and the vehicle is in com-
mercial type service such as, Police, Taxi or Limou-
sine and principally used for highway driving of 40
kilometers (25 miles) or more between stations, the
engine oil should be changed every 8 000 kilometers
(5,000 miles) or 6 months, whichever comes first.
FLEXIBLE FUEL VEHICLES
Flexible fuel is corrosive and contributes to engine
oil contamination. When flexible fuel is being used,
the engine oil should be changed every 8 000 kilome-
ters (5,000 miles) or 6 months, whichever comes first.
OIL FILTER
The engine oil filter should be replaced with a new
filter at every second oil change.
ENGINE OIL
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE IR-
RITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED
BY INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EX-
POSED SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL
FUEL, THINNER, OR SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROB-
LEMS CAN RESULT. DO NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE
OIL PROPERLY. CONTACT YOUR DEALER OR
GOVERNMENT AGENCY FOR LOCATION OF COL-
LECTION CENTER IN YOUR AREA.
BREAK-IN PERIOD
CAUTION: Wide open throttle operation in low
gears, before engine break-in period is complete,
can damage engine.
On a Chrysler Corporation vehicle an extended
break-in period is not required. Driving speeds of not
over 80-90 km/h (50-55 mph) for the first 100 km (60
miles) is recommended. Hard acceleration and high
engine rpm in lower gears should be avoided.
SELECTING ENGINE OIL
CAUTION: Do not use non-detergent or straight
mineral oil when adding or changing crankcase lu-
bricant. Engine or Turbocharger failure can result.
The factory fill engine oil is a high quality, energy
conserving, crankcase lubricant. The Recommended
SAE Viscosity Grades chart defines the viscosity
grades that must be used based on temperature in
the region where vehicle is operated and optional
equipment.
NON-FLEXIBLE FUEL VEHICLES Chrysler Corporation recommends that Mopar mo-
tor oil, or equivalent, be used when adding or chang-
ing crankcase lubricant. The API symbol (Fig. 1) on
the container indicates the viscosity grade, quality
and fuel economy ratings of the lubricant it contains.
Use ENERGY CONSERVING II motor oil with API
SERVICE SG or SG/CD classification.
0 - 8 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE Ä

² SG service engine oil is a high quality crankcase
lubricant designed for use in all naturally aspirated
engines. If SG service engine oil is used in turbo-
charged engine, change engine oil at every 4 800
km (3,000 miles) or three months.
² SG/CD service engine oil is a high quality crank-
case lubricant designed for use in most naturally as-
pirated and turbocharged gasoline or diesel engines.
FLEXIBLE FUEL VEHICLES
Vehicles operated using Flexible Fuel (M85) re-
quire engine oil that meet or exceed Chrysler Stan-
dard MS-9214. Mopar Flexible Fuel engine oil or
equivalent should be used when adding or changing
crankcase lubricant. The API symbol (Fig. 1) on the
container indicates the viscosity grade, quality and
fuel economy ratings of the lubricant it contains. Use
ENERGY CONSERVING II motor oil with API SER-
VICE SG or SG/CD classification.
ENGINE OIL ADDITIVES
Chrysler Corporation recommends that Mopar En-
gine Oil Supplement or equivalent be used when fric-
tion and corrosion reducing materials added to the
crankcase lubricant is desired.
CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil,
oil foaming and oil pressure loss can result.
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800
kilometers (500 miles). Position vehicle on level sur- face. With engine OFF, allow enough time for oil to
settle to bottom of crankcase, remove engine oil level
indicator (dipstick) and wipe clean. Install dipstick
and verify it is seated in the tube. Remove dipstick,
with handle above tip, take oil level reading (Fig. 2).
Add oil only if level is below MIN or ADD mark on
dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in Lubrication and Maintenance Schedules.
Position the vehicle on a level surface. Hoist and
support vehicle on safety stands. Refer to Hoisting
and Jacking Recommendations in this group. Place a
suitable 3.8 liter (4 qt.) drain pan under crankcase
drain. Remove drain plug from crankcase. Inspect
drain plug threads for stretching or other damage.
Replace drain plug and gasket if damaged. Install
drain plug in crankcase. Lower vehicle and fill
crankcase with specified type and amount of engine
oil described in this section. Start engine and inspect
for leaks. Stop engine and inspect oil level.
ENGINE OIL FILTER
SELECTING OIL FILTER
Chrysler Corporation recommends a Mopar or
equivalent oil filter be used when replacement is re-
quired. A replacement filter must be designed to
withstand 1756 kPa (256 psi) of internal pressure.
OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT
Position a drain pan under the oil filter. Using a
suitable oil filter wrench (Fig. 3) loosen filter. When
filter separates from adapter nipple, tip gasket end
upward to minimize oil spill. Remove filter from ve-
hicle. With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing
surface (Fig. 4) of oil and grime. Wipe off oil residue
from below oil filter adapter.
TO INSTALL NEW OIL FILTER: Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine oil or
chassis grease. Thread filter onto adapter nipple.
When gasket makes contact with sealing surface,
tighten filter one full turn. If necessary use a filter
wrench, do not over tighten. Add oil, verify crank-
case oil level and start engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
RECOMMENDED VISCOSITY GRADES
Fig. 1 API Symbol
Fig. 2 Oil Level Indicator DipstickÐTypical
Ä LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0 - 9

(3) Swing the bracket into position on the engine and
loosely install the screws through the slotted holes. (4) Push the intermediate shaft assembly into the
transaxle as far as it can travel. Hold the assembly in
this position and tighten the screws (bracket to engine
block) to 54 N Im (40 ft. lbs.) torque. This will ensure
full seal engagement between the journal on the
intermediate shaft and the seal in the transaxle
extension. (5) Distribute a liberal amount of grease in side
spline and pilot bore on bearing end of intermediate
shaft. Use MOPAR Multi-Purpose Lubricant, or
equivalent. (6) Install speedometer pinion (Fig. 9).
(7) Install right driveshaft. See Driveshaft Assem-
blies Install.
C/V JOINT BOOTS Handling and Cleaning
It is vitally important during anyservice procedures
requiring boot handling. That care be taken not to
puncture or tear the boot by over tightening clamps,
misuse of tool(s) or pinching the boot. Pinching can
occur by rotating the C/V joints (especially the tripod)
beyond normal working angles.
The driveshaft boots are not compatible with oil, gaso-
line, or cleaning solvents. Care must be taken that boots
never come in contact with any of these liquids. The only
acceptable cleaning agent for driveshaft boots is
soap and water. After washing, boot must be thor-
oughly rinsed and dried before reusing.
BOOTS INSPECT
Noticeable amounts of grease on areas adjacent to or
on the exterior of the C/V joint boot. Is the first
indication that a boot is punctured, torn or that a
clamp has loosened. When a C/V joint is removed for
servicing of the joint. The boot should be properly
cleaned and inspected for cracks, tears and scuffed
areas on interior surfaces. If any of these conditions
exist, boot replacement is recommended.
BOOTS INSTALL
THE HARD PLASTIC BOOTS REQUIRE APPROXI-
MATELY 100TIMES THE CLAMPING FORCE OF THE
RUBBER BOOT. THE CLAMPS USED ON THE RUB-
BER BOOTS DO NOT HAVE THE TYPE OF LOAD
CAPACITY REQUIRED. TO SEAL THE HARD PLASTIC
BOOTS AND SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR THIS PUR-
POSE.
Rubber boots appear only on the inner joints of
certain driveshafts.
Fig. 9 Install Speedometer PinionFig. 1 C/V Joint Boot Positioning G.K.N.
Fig. 8 Installing Intermediate Shaft Assembly
2 - 44 SUSPENSION AND DRIVESHAFTS Ä

BRAKE SUPPORT ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
Back off parking brake adjusting nut to provide
slack in cable. With wheel and brake drum removed, disconnect
hydraulic tube from wheel cylinder.Disconnect park-
ing brake cable and adjuster lever spring (Fig. 1).
Using a suitable tool such as an aircraft type hose
clamp, install the clamp over the retainer on the end
of the parking brake cable (Fig. 2). Compress cable
housing retainer and start housing out of support
plate (Fig. 2). Remove clamp when retainer is free
from the park brake cable mounting hole in the rear
brake support plate. Alternate method is to slide a
14 mm box wrench over housing end fitting com-
pressing the three fingers. Remove attaching bolts and washers and separate
brake support and spindle from rear support trailing
arm.
INSTALLATION
Insert parking brake cable and housing into sup-
port plate. Install support plate, spindle and gasket between
support plate and spindle on to rear suspension mem-
ber. Tighten support plate attaching bolts to 71 N Im
(53 ft. lbs) torque. Attach cable to parking brake lever.
Connect brake tube to wheel cylinder. Tighten
brake tube to wheel cylinder fitting to 17 N Im (145
in. lbs.). Install brake drum and wheel. Adjust and bleed
service brakes. Adjust parking brake.
Fig. 1 Removing Adjuster Lever Spring
Fig. 2 Removing Park Brake Cable From Support Plate
Ä BRAKES 5 - 25

(5) Install drive belt. See Accessory Drive Belts
this group. (6) Install right front lower fender shield.
(7) Refill Cooling System. See Refilling Cooling
System in this section.
ENGINE THERMOSTATS
The 2.2 and 2.5L engine thermostats are located on
the front of the engine (radiator side) in the water
box which is part of the cylinder head construction
(Fig. 9). Turbo III thermostat is located in the water
box located on the driver side of the cylinder head
(Fig. 10). These thermostats do not have an air bleed notch.
The 3.0L engine thermostat is located in a water
box, formed in the timing belt end of the intake man-
ifold. This thermostat has an air bleed valve, located
in the thermostat flange (Fig. 11). The 3.3/3.8L engine thermostat is located in a wa-
ter box, formed in the drive belt side of the intake
manifold (Fig. 13).
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The engine cooling thermostats are wax pellet
driven, reverse poppet choke type. They are designed
to provide the fastest warm up possible by prevent-
ing leakage through them and to guarantee a mini-
mum engine operating temperature of 88 to 93ÉC
(192 to 199ÉF). They also automatically reach wide
open so they do not restrict flow to the radiator as
temperature of the coolant rises in hot weather to
around 104ÉC (220ÉF). Above this temperature the
coolant temperature is controlled by the radiator,
fan, and ambient temperature, not the thermostat.
OPERATION AND TESTING
The thermostat is operated by a wax filled con-
tainer (pellet) which is sealed so that when heated to
a predetermined temperature. The wax expands
enough to overcome the closing spring and water
pump pressure, which forces the valve to open. Cool-
ant leakage into the pellet will cause a thermostat to
fail open. Do not attempt to free up a thermostat
with a screwdriver. The open too soon type failure mode is included in
the onboard diagnosis. The check engine light will
not be lit by an open too soon condition. If it has
failed open, code 17 will be set. Do not change a ther-
mostat for lack of heat by gauge or heater perfor-
mance, unless code 17 is present, see diagnosis for
other probable causes. Failing shut is the normal
long term mode of failure, and normally, only on
high mileage vehicles. The temperature gauge will
indicate this, Refer to diagnosis in this section.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain cooling system down to thermostat level
or below. (2) Remove thermostat housing bolts and housing
(Figs. 9, 10, 11 and 13). (3) Remove thermostat, discard gasket and clean
both gasket sealing surfaces.
INSTALLATIONÐ2.2/2.5L AND TURBO III ENGINES
Place a new gasket (dipped in clean water) on wa-
ter box surface, center thermostat in water box on
gasket. Place housing over gasket and thermostat,
making sure thermostat is in the thermostat hous-
ing. Bolt housing to water box (Figs. 9 and 10).
Tighten bolts to 28 N Im (250 in. lbs.). Refill cooling
system (see Refilling System ).
INSTALLATIONÐ3.0L ENGINE
Center thermostat in water box pocket. Check that
the flange is seated correctly in the countersunk por-
tion of the intake manifold water box (Figs. 11 and
12). Install new gasket on water box. Install housing
over gasket and thermostat and tighten bolts to 12
N Im (133 in. lbs. torque).
Fig. 9 Thermostat, Housing, and Water BoxÐ2.2/
2.5L Engine
Fig. 10 Thermostat, Housing, and Water BoxÐTurbo III
Ä COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 13

-37ÉC (-35ÉF) to -59ÉC (-50ÉF). If it looses color or
becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with
fresh properly mixed solution.
SERVICE
Coolant should be changed at 52,500 miles or three
years, whichever occurs first, then every two years or
30,000 miles.
ROUTINE LEVEL CHECK
Do not remove radiator cap for routine coolant
level inspections. The coolant reserve system provides a quick visual
method for determining the coolant level without re-
moving the radiator cap. Simply observe, with the
engine idling and warmed up to normal operating
temperature, that the level of the coolant in the reserve
tank (Figs. 5 and 6) is between the minimum and
maximum marks.
ADDING ADDITIONAL COOLANT
The radiator cap should not be removed. When
additional coolant is needed to maintain this level, it
should be added to the coolant reserve tank. Use only
50/50 concentration of ethylene glycol type antifreeze
and water.
SERVICE COOLANT LEVEL
The cooling system is closed and designed to main-
tain coolant level to the top of the radiator. When servicing requires a coolant level check in the
radiator, the engine must be offand notunder pres-
sure. Drain several ounces of coolant from the radiator
drain cock while observing the Coolant Recovery Sys-
tem (CRS) Tank. Coolant level in the CRS tank should
drop slightly. Then remove the radiator cap. The radia-
tor should be full to the top. If not, and the coolant level
in the CRS tank is at the MIN mark there is a air leak
in the CRS system. Check hose or hose connections to
the CRS tank, radiator filler neck or the pressure cap
seal to the radiator filler neck for leaks.
LOW COOLANT LEVEL AERATION
Low coolant level in a cross flow radiator will equal-
ize in both tanks with engine off. With engine at
running operating temperature the high pressure inlet
tank runs full and the low pressure outlet tank drops.
If this level drops below the top of the transmission oil
cooler, air will be sucked into the water pump:
² Transmission oil will become hotter.
² High reading shown on the temperature gauge.
² Air in the coolant will also cause loss of flow through
the heater.
² Exhaust gas leaks into the coolant can also cause the
same problems.
DEAERATION
Air can only be removed from the system by gather-
ing under the pressure cap. On the next heat up it will
be pushed past the pressure cap into the CRS tank by
thermal expansion of the coolant. It then escapes to the
atmosphere in the CRS tank and is replaced with solid
coolant on cool down.
COOLING SYSTEM DRAIN, CLEAN, FLUSH AND
REFILL
Drain, flush, and fill the cooling system at the
mileage or time intervals specified in the Maintenance
Schedule in this Group. If the solution is dirty or rusty
or contains a considerable amount of sediment, clean
and flush with a reliable cooling system cleaner. Care
should be taken in disposing of the used engine coolant
from your vehicle. Check governmental regulations for
disposal of used engine coolant.
DRAINING
To drain cooling system move temperature selector
for heater to full heat with engine running (to provide
vacuum for actuation). Without removing radiator
pressure cap and with system not under pres-
sure, Shut engine off and open draincock. The coolant
reserve tank (Fig. 5) should empty first, then remove
radiator pressure cap. (if not, see Testing Cooling
System for leaks). To vent 2.2/2.5L engines remove the
plug above thermostat housing (Fig. 1). For Turbo III
engines remove coolant temperature sensor in the
thermostat housing (Fig. 2). For 3.3L /3.8L engine
remove the engine temperature sending unit (Fig. 3).
Removal of a plug or other component is required
because the thermostat has no air vent and prevents
air flow through it. This allows the coolant to drain
from the engine block.
Fig. 1 Thermostat Housing Drain/Fill PlugÐ2.2/2.5L Engines
Ä COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 15

CLEANING
Drain cooling system (see: Draining Cooling Sys-
tem ) and refill with clean water (see: Refilling
Cooling System ). Run engine with radiator cap in-
stalled until upper radiator hose is hot. Stop engine
and drain water from system. If water is dirty, fill,
run and drain system again until water runs clear.
REVERSE FLUSHING
Reverse flushing of the cooling system is the forc-
ing of water through the cooling system, using air
pressure in a direction opposite to that of the normal
flow of water. This is only necessary with dirty sys-
tems and evidence of partial plugging.
RADIATOR Drain cooling system and remove radiator hoses
from engine. Install suitable flushing gun in radiator
lower hose. Fill radiator with clean water and turn
on air in short blasts. CAUTION: Internal radiator pressure must not ex-
ceed 138 kPa (20 psi) as damage to radiator may re-
sult. Continue this procedure until water runs clear.
ENGINE
Drain radiator (see: Draining Cooling System )
and remove hoses from radiator. Remove engine
thermostat and reinstall thermostat housing. Install
suitable flushing gun to thermostat housing hose.
Turn on water, and when engine is filled, turn on
air, but no higher than 138 kPa (20 psi) in short
blasts. Allow engine to fill between blasts of air.
Continue this procedure until water runs clean. In-
stall thermostat using a new housing gasket. Fill
cooling system (See Refilling Cooling System ).
CHEMICAL CLEANING
One type of corrosion encountered with aluminum
cylinder heads is aluminum hydroxide deposits. Cor-
rosion products are carried to the radiator and depos-
ited when cooled off. They appear as dark grey when
wet and white when dry. This corrosion can be re-
moved with a two part cleaner (oxalic acid and neu-
tralizer) available in auto parts outlets. Follow
manufacturers directions for use.
REFILLING
First clean system to remove old glycol, see Cooling
System Cleaning. Fill system using antifreeze described in Coolant
section. Fill 50 percent of capacity with 100 percent
glycol. Then complete filling system with water. The
2.2/2.5L engines require venting by removal of the
plug on top of the water box (Fig. 1). Turbo III en-
gines require venting by removing the coolant tem-
perature sensor on top of the thermostat housing
(Fig. 2). The 3.3/3.8L Engines require removal of the
Engine Temperature Sending Unit on the front of
the cylinder head (Fig. 3). The thermostat in these
engines do not allow air flow through them. When
coolant reaches the vent holes;
² Install vent plug and tighten to 20 N Im (15 ft. lbs.)
for 2.2/2.5L Engines.
² Install Coolant Temperature Sensor and tighten to
27 N Im (20 ft. lbs.) for Turbo III Engine.
² Install Engine Temperature Sending Unit and
tighten to 7 N Im (60 in. lbs.) for 3.3/3.8L Engines.
Continue filling system until full, this provides bet-
ter heater performance. Be careful not to spill
coolant on drive belts or the generator. Fill coolant reserve system to at least the MAX
mark with 50/50 solution. It may be necessary to add
coolant to the reserve tank to maintain coolant level
between the MAX and MIN mark after three or four
warm-up, cool down cycles and trapped air has been
removed.
Fig. 2 Coolant Temperature SensorÐTurbo III Drain/Fill
Fig. 3 Engine Temperature Sending UnitÐ3.3L and 3.8L Drain/Fill
7 - 16 COOLING SYSTEM Ä

RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
Radiators are equipped with a pressure cap which
releases pressure at some point within a range of
97-124 kPa (14-18 psi) (Fig. 7). The system will operate at higher than atmospheric
pressure which raises the coolant boiling point allow-
ing increased radiator cooling capacity. There is also a vent valve in the center of the cap that
allows a small coolant flow to the CRS tank. If valve is
stuck shut, the radiator hoses will be collapsed
on cool down. Clean the vent valve (Fig. 7) to
ensure proper sealing when boiling point is
reached.
There is also a gasket in the cap to seal to the top of
the filler neck so that vacuum can be maintained for
drawing coolant back into the radiator from the coolant
reserve system tank.
RADIATOR CAP TO FILLER NECK SEAL PRES- SURE RELIEF CHECK
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure relief
can be checked by removing the overflow hose at the
radiator filler neck nipple (Fig. 7). Attach the Radiator
Pressure Tool to the filler neck nipple and pump air
into the radiator. Pressure cap upper gasket should
relieve at 69-124 kPa (10-18 psi) and hold pressure at
55 kPa (8 psi) minimum.
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS DO NOT OPEN
HOT ON THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP IS A
SAFETY PRECAUTION. WHEN HOT, PRESSURE
BUILDS UP IN COOLING SYSTEM. TO PREVENT
SCALDING OR INJURY, THE RADIATOR CAP
SHOULD NOT BE REMOVED WHILE THE SYSTEM IS
HOT AND/OR UNDER PRESSURE.
There is no need to remove the radiator cap at any
time except for the following purposes:
(1) Check and adjust antifreeze freeze point.
(2) Refill system with new antifreeze.
(3) Conducting service procedures.
(4) Checking for vacuum leaks.
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING CAP. THEN PLACE A SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP AND WITH-
OUT PUSHING DOWN ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS
TO ESCAPE THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE AND
WHEN THE SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING COOLANT
AND STEAM INTO THE CRS TANK AND PRESSURE
DROPS PUSH DOWN AND REMOVE THE CAP COM-
PLETELY. SQUEEZING THE RADIATOR INLET HOSE
WITH A SHOP TOWEL (TO CHECK PRESSURE) BE-
FORE AND AFTER TURNING TO THE FIRST STOP IS
RECOMMENDED.
PRESSURE TESTING RADIATOR CAPS
Dip the pressure cap in water, clean any deposits off
the vent valve or its seat and apply cap to end of
Radiator Pressure Tool. Working the plunger, bring the
pressure to 104 kPa (15 psi) on the gauge. If the
pressure cap fails to hold pressure of at least 97 kPa
(14 psi) replace cap. See CAUTION
If the pressure cap tests properly while positioned on
Radiator Pressure Tool, but will not hold pressure or
vacuum when positioned on the radiator. Inspect the
radiator filler neck and cap top gasket for irregularities
that may prevent the cap from sealing properly.
CAUTION: Radiator Pressure Tool is very sensitive to
small air leaks which will not cause cooling system
problems. A pressure cap that does not have a
history of coolant loss should not be replaced just
because it leaks slowly when tested with this tool.
Add water to the tool. Turn tool upside down and
recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap is bad.
INSPECTION
Hold the cap in hand, right side up(Fig. 7). The
vent valve at the bottom of the cap should open. If the
rubber gasket has swollen and prevents the valve from
opening, replace the cap. Hold the cleaned cap in hand upside down.If any
light can be seen between vent valve and rubber
gasket, replace cap. Do not use a replacement cap
that has a spring to hold the vent shut. Replacement cap must be of the type designed for
coolant reserve systems. This design assures coolant
return to radiator.
RADIATORS
The radiators are crossflow types (horizontal tubes)
with design features that provide greater strength as
well as sufficient heat transfer capabilities to keep the
engine satisfactorily cooled.
CAUTION: Plastic tanks, while stronger then brass
are subject to damage by impact, such as wrenches.
Fig. 7 Radiator Pressure Cap Filler Neck
7 - 18 COOLING SYSTEM Ä