1989 FORD FIESTA jump start terminals

6Unscrew the nut securing the cooling fan
shroud to the radiator, noting the insulating
washer arrangement, then lift the fan shroud
and motor assembly from the vehicle (see
illustration) .
7 To separate the fan from the motor shaft,
first remove its retaining clip and washer, then
withdraw the fan (see illustration) . A new clip
will be needed upon reassembly. Remove the
three nuts securing the motor to the shroud
and separate the two components.
Turbo models
8 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
9 Undo the two retaining screws and move
the HT lead bracket clear of the working area,
disconnecting the HT leads as required.
10 Disconnect the fan motor wiring multi-
plug and the two auxiliary lamp wiring multi-
plugs. Unclip the wiring from any local
retaining clips.
11 Remove the front bumper as described in
Chapter 11.
12 Undo the two lower fan shroud retaining
bolts, release the shroud upper locating
tongue from the radiator and withdraw the
assembly from the front of the car.
13 To separate the fan from the motor shaft,
pull off the fan guard from the shroud, flatten
back the raised lockwasher tab, and unscrew
clockwise (a left-hand thread is employed)
the nut securing the fan to the motor shaft.
Remove the fan then undo the three nuts
securing the motor to the shroud and
separate the two components.
Refitting
All models
14 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. On non-Turbo models, ensure that
the locating tags on the base of the shroud
locate correctly in their slots in the body
crossmember. On Turbo models, if the fan
was removed, use a new lockwasher when
refitting. On all models, ensure that the wiring
connections are cleanly and securely made,
and locate the loom in the retaining clips.
6 Cooling system electrical switches and sensors -
testing, removal and refitting
2
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Coolant temperature gauge
sender
Testing
1 If the coolant temperature gauge is
inoperative, check the fuses first (see Chap-
ter 12).
2 If the gauge indicates overheating at any
time, consult the “Fault finding” section at the
end of this manual, to assist in tracing
possible cooling system faults. 3
If the gauge indicates overheating shortly
after the engine is started from cold,
disconnect the temperature gauge sender’s
wiring multi-plug. The sender is located below
the thermostat housing on HCS engines,
adjacent to the thermostat housing on CVH
and PTE engines, and on the forward-facing
side of the thermostat housing on Zetec
engines. If the gauge reading now drops,
renew the sender. If the reading remains high,
the wire to the gauge may be shorted to earth,
or the gauge is faulty.
4 If the gauge fails to indicate after the engine
has been warmed up (approximately
10 minutes) and the fuses are known to be
sound, switch off the engine. Disconnect the
sender’s wiring multi-plug, and use a jumper
wire to ground the connector to a clean earth
point (bare metal) on the engine. Switch on
the ignition without starting the engine.
If the gauge now indicates Hot, renew the
sender.
5 If the gauge still does not work, the circuit
may be open, or the gauge may be faulty. See
Chapter 12 for additional information.
Removal
6 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and
remove the air cleaner or air inlet hoses,
according to engine type as necessary, to
gain access to the sender unit.
7 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
8 On Zetec engines, disconnect the
expansion tank coolant hose and the radiator
top hose from the thermostat housing’s water
outlet.
9 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
sender unit.
10 Unscrew the sender and withdraw it.
Refitting
11Clean as thoroughly as possible the
sender unit location, then apply a light coat of
sealant to the sender’s threads. Screw in the
sender, tighten it to the specified torque, and
reconnect the wiring multi-plug.
12 Reconnect the hoses, and refit any
components disconnected for access. Refill
or top-up the cooling system (see “Weekly
Checks” or Chapter 1) and run the
engine. Check for leaks and proper gauge
operation.
Engine coolant temperature
sensor
Testing
13 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5A, Section 1).
14 Locate the coolant temperature sensor,
which will be found below the inlet manifold
on HCS engines, on the side or centre of the
inlet manifold on CVH and PTE engines, or on
top of the thermostat housing on Zetec
engines. Once located, refer to the relevant
Part of Chapter 4 and remove the air cleaner
or air inlet hoses, according to engine type as
necessary, to improve access to the sensor
unit.
15 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
sensor.
16 Using an ohmmeter, measure the
resistance between the sensor terminals.
Depending on the temperature of the sensor
tip, the resistance measured will vary, but
should be within the broad limits given in the
Specifications of this Chapter. If the sensor’s
temperature is varied - by removing it (see
below) and placing it in a freezer for a while, or
by warming it gently - its resistance should
alter accordingly.
17 If the results obtained show the sensor to
be faulty, renew it.
18 On completion, reconnect the wiring
multi-plug and refit any components removed
for access, then reconnect the battery.
Removal
19 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5A, Section 1).
20 Locate the sensor as described
previously, and remove any components as
necessary for access.
21 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
22 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
sensor.
23 Unscrew the sensor and withdraw it.
Refitting
24Clean as thoroughly as possible the
sensor location, then apply a light coat of
sealant to the sensor’s threads. Refit and
tighten the sensor to the specified torque
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•5
5.7 Nuts securing fan motor to shroud (A),
and shroud to body crossmember locating tags (B). Inset shows fan to motor shaft retaining clip (arrowed)5.6 Radiator cooling fan shroud securing nut (arrowed)
3
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1 General information,precautions and battery
disconnection
General information
The engine electrical system consists
mainly of the charging and starting systems.
Because of their engine-related functions,
these components are covered separately
from the body electrical devices such as the
lights, instruments, etc (which are covered in
Chapter 12). Information on the ignition
system is covered in Part B of this Chapter.
The electrical system is of the 12-volt
negative earth type. The battery is of the low maintenance or
“maintenance-free” (sealed for life) type and is
charged by the alternator, which is belt-driven
from the crankshaft pulley. The starter motor is of the pre-engaged
type incorporating an integral solenoid. On
starting, the solenoid moves the drive pinion
into engagement with the flywheel ring gear
before the starter motor is energised. Once
the engine has started, a one-way clutch
prevents the motor armature being driven by
the engine until the pinion disengages from
the flywheel.
Precautions
Further details of the various systems are
given in the relevant Sections of this Chapter.
While some repair procedures are given, the
usual course of action is to renew the
component concerned. The owner whose
interest extends beyond mere component
renewal should obtain a copy of the
“Automobile Electrical & Electronic Systems
Manual” , available from the publishers of this
manual. It is necessary to take extra care when
working on the electrical system to avoid
damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes
and transistors), and to avoid the risk of
personal injury. In addition to the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this
manual, observe the following when working
on the system:
Always remove rings, watches, etc before
working on the electrical system. Even with
the battery disconnected, capacitive
discharge could occur if a component’s live
terminal is earthed through a metal object.
This could cause a shock or nasty burn. Do not reverse the battery connections.
Components such as the alternator, electronic
control units, or any other components having
semi-conductor circuitry could be irreparably
damaged. If the engine is being started using jump
leads and a slave battery, connect the
batteries positive-to-positive and negative-to-
negative (see “Jump starting” ). This also
applies when connecting a battery charger.
Never disconnect the battery terminals, the
alternator, any electrical wiring or any test instruments when the engine is running.
Do not allow the engine to turn the
alternator when the alternator is not
connected. Never “test” for alternator output by
“flashing” the output lead to earth.
Never use an ohmmeter of the type
incorporating a hand-cranked generator for
circuit or continuity testing.
Always ensure that the battery negative lead
is disconnected when working on the
electrical system. Before using electric-arc welding
equipment on the car, disconnect the battery,
alternator and components such as the fuel
injection/ignition electronic control unit to
protect them from the risk of damage.
Battery disconnection
Several systems fitted to the vehicle require
battery power to be available at all times, either
to ensure that their continued operation (such as
the clock) or to maintain control unit memories
(such as that in the engine management
system’s ECU) which would be wiped if the
battery were to be disconnected. Whenever the
battery is to be disconnected therefore, first note
the following, to ensure that there are no
unforeseen consequences of this action:
a) First, on any vehicle with central locking, it is a wise precaution to remove the key
from the ignition, and to keep it with you,
so that it does not get locked in, if the
central locking should engage accidentally
when the battery is reconnected.
b) On cars equipped with an engine
management system, the system’s ECU will
lose the information stored in its memory -
referred to by Ford as the “KAM” (Keep-
Alive Memory) - when the battery is
disconnected. This includes idling and
operating values, and any fault codes
detected - in the case of the fault codes, if
it is thought likely that the system has
developed a fault for which the
corresponding code has been logged, the
vehicle must be taken to a Ford dealer for
the codes to be read, using the special
diagnostic equipment necessary for this.
Whenever the battery is disconnected, the
information relating to idle speed control
and other operating values will have to be
re-programmed into the unit’s memory.
The ECU does this by itself, but until then,
there may be surging, hesitation, erratic idle
and a generally inferior level of
performance. To allow the ECU to relearn
these values, start the engine and run it as
close to idle speed as possible until it
reaches its normal operating temperature,
then run it for approximately two minutes at
1200 rpm. Next, drive the vehicle as far as
necessary - approximately 5 miles of varied
driving conditions is usually sufficient - to
complete the relearning process.
c) If the battery is disconnected while the alarm system is armed or activated, the
alarm will remain in the same state when the battery is reconnected. The same
applies to the engine immobiliser system
(where fitted).
d) If a Ford “Keycode” audio unit is fitted,
and the unit and/or the battery is
disconnected, the unit will not function
again on reconnection until the correct
security code is entered. Details of this
procedure, which varies according to the
unit and model year, are given in the
“Ford Audio Systems Operating Guide”
supplied with the vehicle when new, with
the code itself being given in a “Radio
Passport” and/or a “Keycode Label” at
the same time. Ensure you have the
correct code before you disconnect the
battery. For obvious security reasons, the
procedure is not given in this manual. If
you do not have the code or details of the
correct procedure, but can supply proof
of ownership and a legitimate reason for
wanting this information, the vehicle’s
selling dealer may be able to help.
Devices known as “memory-savers” (or
“code-savers”) can be used to avoid some of
the above problems. Precise details vary
according to the device used. Typically, it is
plugged into the cigarette lighter, and is
connected by its own wires to a spare battery;
the vehicle’s own battery is then disconnected
from the electrical system, leaving the
“memory-saver” to pass sufficient current to
maintain audio unit security codes and ECU
memory values, and also to run permanently-
live circuits such as the clock, all the while
isolating the battery in the event of a short-
circuit occurring while work is carried out.
Warning: Some of these devices
allow a considerable amount of
current to pass, which can mean
that many of the vehicle’s
systems are still operational when the
main battery is disconnected. If a
“memory-saver” is used, ensure that the
circuit concerned is actually “dead” before
carrying out any work on it!
2 Electrical fault finding - general information
Refer to Chapter 12.
3 Battery -testing and charging
1
Standard and low maintenance
battery - testing
1If the vehicle covers a small annual mileage,
it is worthwhile checking the specific gravity
of the electrolyte every three months to
determine the state of charge of the battery.
Use a hydrometer to make the check and
compare the results with the following table.
5A•2 Starting and charging systems
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flux can pass between the magnet and the
sensor. When a trigger vane segment is in line
with the sensor, the magnetic flux is diverted
through the trigger vane, away from the
sensor. The sensor detects the change in
magnetic flux and sends an impulse to the
EEC IV module. Additional data is received
from the engine coolant temperature sensor,
manifold absolute pressure sensor, inlet air
temperature sensor, throttle position sensor
and vehicle speed sensor. Using this
information the EEC IV module calculates the
optimum ignition advance setting and
switches off the low tension circuit via the
ignition module. This results in the collapse of
the magnetic field in the coil which generates
the high tension voltage. The high tension
voltage is then fed, via the coil HT lead and
the carbon brush in the centre of the
distributor cap, to the rotor arm. The voltage
passes across to the appropriate metal
segment in the cap and via the spark plug HT
lead to the spark plug where it finally jumps
the spark plug gap to earth. It can be seen
that the ignition module functions basically as
a high current switch by controlling the low
tension supply to the ignition coil primary
windings.In the event of failure of a sensor, the
EEC IV module will substitute a preset value
for that input to allow the system to continue
to function. In the event of failure of the
EEC IV module, a “limited operation strategy”
(LOS) function allows the vehicle to be driven,
albeit at reduced power and efficiency. The
EEC IV module also has a “keep alive
memory” (KAM) function which stores idle and
drive values and codes which can be used to
indicate any system fault which may occur.
Distributorless ignition systems
The main ignition system components
include the ignition switch, the battery, the
crankshaft speed/position sensor, the ignition
module, the coil, the primary (low tension/LT)
and secondary (high tension/HT) wiring
circuits, and the spark plugs. The system used on carburettor models is
termed DIS (Distributorless Ignition System),
and on fuel injection models E-DIS, (Electronic
Distributorless Ignition System). The primary
difference between the two is that the DIS
system is an independent ignition control
system while the E-DIS system operates in
conjunction with the EEC IV engine
management module which also controls the
fuel injection and emission control systems.
With both systems, the main functions of
the distributor are replaced by a computerised
ignition module and a coil unit. The coil unit
combines a double-ended pair of coils - each
time a coil receives an ignition signal, two
sparks are produced, at each end of the
secondary windings. One spark goes to a
cylinder on compression stroke and the other
goes to the corresponding cylinder on its
exhaust stroke. The first will give the correct power stroke, but the second spark will have
no effect (a “wasted spark”), occurring as it
does during exhaust conditions.
The ignition signal is generated by a
crankshaft position sensor which scans a
series of 36 protrusions on the periphery of
the engine flywheel. The inductive head of the
crankshaft position sensor runs just above the
flywheel periphery and as the crankshaft
rotates, the sensor transmits a pulse to the
ignition module every time a protrusion
passes it. There is one missing protrusion in
the flywheel periphery at a point
corresponding to 90° BTDC. The ignition
module recognises the absence of a pulse
from the crankshaft position sensor at this
point to establish a reference mark for
crankshaft position. Similarly, the time interval
between absent pulses is used to determine
engine speed. On carburettor engines, the ignition module
receives signals provided by information
sensors which monitor various engine
functions (such as crankshaft position,
coolant temperature, inlet air temperature,
inlet manifold vacuum etc). This information
allows the ignition module to generate the
optimum ignition timing setting under all
operating conditions.
On fuel injection engines, the ignition
module operates in conjunction with the
EEC IV engine management module, and
together with the various additional
information sensors and emission control
components, provides total control of the fuel
and ignition systems to form a complete
engine management package. The information contained in this Chapter
concentrates on the ignition-related
components of the engine management
system. Information covering the fuel, exhaust
and emission control components can be
found in the applicable Parts of Chapter 4.
Precautions
When working on the ignition system, take
the following precautions:
a) Do not keep the ignition switch on for
more than 10 seconds if the engine will
not start.
b) If a separate tachometer is ever required
for servicing work, consult a dealer
service department before buying a
tachometer for use with this vehicle -
some tachometers may be incompatible
with these types of ignition systems - and
always connect it in accordance with the
equipment manufacturer’s instructions.
c) Never connect the ignition coil terminals to earth. This could result in damage to
the coil and/or the ignition module.
d) Do not disconnect the battery when the
engine is running.
e) Make sure that the ignition module is
properly earthed.
f) Refer to the warning at the beginning of the next Section concerning HT voltage.
2 Ignition system - testing
2
Warning: Voltages produced by
an electronic ignition system are
considerably higher than those
produced by conventional
ignition systems. Extreme care must be
taken when working on the system with
the ignition switched on. Persons with
surgically-implanted cardiac pacemaker
devices should keep well clear of the
ignition circuits, components and test
equipment.
Note: Refer to the precautions given in
Section 1 of Part A of this Chapter before
starting work. Always switch off the ignition
before disconnecting or connecting any
component and when using a multi-meter to
check resistances.
1 If the engine turns over but won’t start,
disconnect the (HT) lead from any spark plug,
and attach it to a calibrated tester (available at
most automotive accessory shops). Connect
the clip on the tester to a good earth - a bolt
or metal bracket on the engine. If you’re
unable to obtain a calibrated ignition tester,
have the check carried out by a Ford dealer
service department or similar. Any other form
of testing (such as jumping a spark from the
end of an HT lead to earth) is not
recommended, because of the risk of
personal injury, or of damage to the ignition
module.
2 Crank the engine, and watch the end of the
tester to see if bright blue, well-defined sparks
occur.
3 If sparks occur, sufficient voltage is
reaching the plug to fire it. Repeat the
check at the remaining plugs, to ensure
that all leads are sound and that the
coil is serviceable. However, the plugs
themselves may be fouled or faulty, so
remove and check them as described in
Chapter 1.
4 If no sparks or intermittent sparks occur,
the spark plug lead(s) may be defective. Also,
on distributor systems, there may be
problems with the rotor arm or distributor cap
- check all these components as described in
Chapter 1.
5 If there’s still no spark, check the coil’s
electrical connector (where applicable), to
make sure it’s clean and tight. Check for full
battery voltage to the coil at the connector’s
centre terminal. Check the coil itself (see
Section 3). Make any necessary repairs, then
repeat the check again.
6 The remainder of the system checks should
be left to a dealer service department
or other qualified repair facility, as there is a
chance that the ignition module may
be damaged if tests are not performed
properly.
Ignition system 5B•3
5B
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1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
Glossary of technical termsREF•25
REF
JJump startStarting the engine of a vehicle
with a discharged or weak battery by
attaching jump leads from the weak battery to
a charged or helper battery.
LLoad Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) A
brake hydraulic system control valve that
works like a proportioning valve, but also
takes into consideration the amount of weight
carried by the rear axle.
Locknut A nut used to lock an adjustment
nut, or other threaded component, in place.
For example, a locknut is employed to keep
the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in
position.
Lockwasher A form of washer designed to
pr event an attaching nut from working loose.
MMacPherson strut A type of front
suspension system devised by Earle
MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original
form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar
cr eates the lower control arm. A long strut - an
integral coil spring and shock absorber - is
mounted between the body and the steering
knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson
strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm
and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location. Multimeter An electrical test instrument with
the capability to measure voltage, current and
resistance.
NNOx Oxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic
pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines
at higher temperatures.
OOhm The unit of electrical resistance. One
volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will
pr oduce a current of one amp.
Ohmmeter An instrument for measuring
electrical resistance.
O-ring A type of sealing ring made of a
special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring
is compressed into a groove to provide the
sealing action. Overhead cam (ohc) engine
An engine with
the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder
head(s).
Overhead valve (ohv) engine An engine with
the valves located in the cylinder head, but
with the camshaft located in the engine block.
Oxygen sensor A device installed in the
engine exhaust manifold, which senses the
oxygen content in the exhaust and converts
this information into an electric current. Also
called a Lambda sensor.
PPhillips screw A type of screw head having a
cr oss instead of a slot for a corresponding
type of screwdriver.
Plastigage A thin strip of plastic thread,
available in different sizes, used for measuring clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage
is laid across a bearing journal. The parts areassembled and dismantled; the width of the
crushed strip indicates the clearance between
jour nal and bearing.
Pr opeller shaft The long hollow tube with
universal joints at both ends that carries
power from the transmission to the differential on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.
Pr oportioning valve A hydraulic control
valve which limits the amount of pressure to
the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent
wheel lock-up.
RRack-and-pinion steering A steering system
with a pinion gear on the end of the steering
shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared
wheel opened up and laid flat). When the
steering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,
moving the rack to the left or right. This
movement is transmitted through the track
r ods to the steering arms at the wheels.
Radiator A liquid-to-air heat transfer device
designed to reduce the temperature of the
coolant in an internal combustion engine
cooling system.
Refrigerant Any substance used as a heat
transfer agent in an air-conditioning system.
R-12 has been the principle refrigerant for
many years; recently, however, manufacturers
have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC
substance that is considered less harmful to the ozone in the upper atmosphere.
Rocker arm
A lever arm that rocks on a shaft
or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve
engine, the rocker arm converts the upward
movement of the pushrod into a downward
movement to open a valve.
Rotor In a distributor, the rotating device
inside the cap that connects the centre
electr ode and the outer terminals as it turns,
distributing the high voltage from the coil
secondary winding to the proper spark plug.
Also, that part of an alternator which rotates
inside the stator. Also, the rotating assembly
of a turbocharger, including the compressor
wheel, shaft and turbine wheel.
Runout The amount of wobble (in-and-out
movement) of a gear or wheel as it’ s rotated.
The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” The
out-of-r ound condition of a rotating part.
SSealant A liquid or paste used to prevent
leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in
conjunction with a gasket.
Sealed beam lamp An older headlight design
which integrates the reflector, lens and
filaments into a hermetically-sealed one-piece
unit. When a filament burns out or the lens
cracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.
Serpentine drivebelt A single, long, wide
accessory drivebelt that’s used on some
newer vehicles to drive all the accessories,
instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.
Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned by
an automatic tensioner.
Shim Thin spacer, commonly used to adjust
the clearance or relative positions between
two parts. For example, shims inserted into or
under bucket tappets control valve
clearances. Clearance is adjusted by
changing the thickness of the shim.
Slide hammer A special puller that screws
into or hooks onto a component such as a
shaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on the
shaft bottoms against the end of the shaft to
knock the component free.
Sprocket A tooth or projection on the
periphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with a
chain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer to
the sprocket wheel itself.
Starter inhibitor switch On vehicles with an
O-ring
Serpentine drivebelt
Plastigage
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