9Align the pump gear flats with those on the
crankshaft, then fit the oil pump. Check that
the sump mating faces of the oil pump and
the base of the crankcase are flush each side,
then tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque setting. Remove the
protective guide (see illustrations) .
10 Refit the oil pick-up tube to the oil pump,
using a new gasket and tighten to the
specified torque.
11 Slide the thrustwasher onto the front end
of the crankshaft, then insert the Woodruff key
into position in the groove in the crankshaft.
The key must be located with its flat edge
parallel with the line of the crankshaft, to
ensure that the crankshaft sprocket slides
fully into position as it is being refitted.
12 Refit the sump, crankshaft sprocket, the
timing belt, timing belt cover and drivebelt
pulley (as described in the appropriate earlier
Sections of this Chapter). Refit and adjust the
drivebelt as described in Chapter 1.
13 On completion, lower the vehicle and
reconnect the battery negative terminal.
15 Oil pump - dismantling,
inspection and reassembly
3
Dismantling
1 The oil pump fitted is a low-friction rotor-
type, driven from the front end of the
crankshaft. Where a high-mileage engine is being reconditioned, it is recommended that a
new oil pump is fitted.
2
To inspect the rotor assembly, first remove
the pump from the engine (Section 14), then
undo the retaining screws and remove the
cover plate (see illustration) . Remove the O-
ring seal.
Inspection
3 Clean the rotors and the inside of the pump
housing, then visually inspect the various
components for signs of excessive wear and
scoring. Check the pump components for
wear using feeler gauges in the same manner
as that described in Part A of this Chapter,
Section 13. Refer to the Specifications at the
start of this Chapter for specific details.
Reassembly
4 When reassembling the pump, ensure that
the inner (driving) and outer (driven) rotors are
located with the corresponding indented
matchmarks facing the same way (see
illustration) .
16Crankshaft oil seals -
renewal
4
Front oil seal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
3 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1.
4 Remove the crankshaft pulley (Section 6),
the timing belt covers (Section 7), the timing
belt (Section 8) and crankshaft sprocket,
Woodruff key and thrustwasher (Section 9).
5 The oil seal is now accessible for removal
from the front face of the oil pump housing
(see illustration) . To withdraw the seal, a
hooked tool will be required; if available, use
Ford special tool No 21-096. Take care not to
damage the oil pump housing during removal.
As it is removed, note the fitted orientation of
the seal in its housing.
6 Clean the oil pump housing and the
crankshaft stub, then lubricate the lips of the
new seal and the crankshaft front stub with
clean engine oil.
7 The oil seal should be drawn into position
using the Ford special tool No 21-093A.
Failing this, use a tube of suitable diameter,
with the crankshaft pulley bolt and washers.
Do not hammer the seal into position. To
protect the seal lips as it is fitted onto the
crankshaft, cut a thin sheet of plastic to suit
and furl it round the front of the crankshaft,
over the journal shoulder.
8 When the seal is fully fitted, remove the
special tool (or fabricated tool) and withdraw
the plastic protector. Check that the
crankshaft is still at the TDC position and refit
the Woodruff key, thrustwasher and sprocket.
Refit and tension the timing belt, then refit the
timing belt cover and crankshaft pulley as
described in the appropriate Sections earlier
in this Chapter.
9 Refit and adjust the auxiliary drivebelt as
described in Chapter 1.
10 On completion, lower the vehicle and
reconnect the battery.
Rear oil seal
11 With the engine or transmission removed
from the vehicle for access, remove the clutch
as described in Chapter 6.
12 Remove the flywheel/driveplate as
described in Section 18.
13 If available, use Ford tool No 21-151 or a
suitable clawed tool to extract the seal from
2B•12 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures
16.5 Crankshaft front oil seal - seen from
below (arrowed)15.4 Inner and outer rotor matchmarks (arrowed)15.2 Oil pump cover plate retainingscrews (arrowed)
14.9b With the oil pump refitted, removethe protective guide (arrowed)14.9a Refit the oil pump
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its housing. If the seal housing is removed
from the rear face of the engine, the seal can
be removed as described in paragraph 18. As
it is removed, note the direction of fitting, and
take care not to damage the seal housing as
the seal is extracted.
14Clean the seal housing, the crankshaft
rear flange face, and the flywheel/driveplate
mating surfaces.
15 One of two possible methods may be
used to insert the new oil seal, depending on
the tools available.
16 If Ford special service tool No 21-095 is
available, lubricate the seal lips of the seal and
its running face on the crankshaft with clean
engine oil. Position the seal (correctly
orientated) into the special tool, then draw the
seal into the housing using two
flywheel/driveplate securing bolts so that the
seal is against the stop.
17 If the correct Ford service tool is not
available, it will be necessary to remove the oil
seal carrier housing. To do this, first remove
the sump as described in Section 13, then
unscrew the seal housing retaining bolts and
remove the housing from the rear face of the
crankcase.
18 Drive the old seal from the housing by
carefully tapping it from its aperture using a
suitable punch as shown (see illustration). As
it is removed, note the direction of fitting, and
take care not to damage the seal housing as
the seal is extracted.
19 New gaskets will be required for the seal
housing and sump during reassembly. Clean
the mating faces of the seal housing, the
crankcase and sump. Insert the new seal
squarely into its housing. To avoid damaging
the seal or the housing, place a flat piece of
wood across the face of the seal, and
carefully tap or draw the seal into place. Do
not allow the seal to tilt in the housing as it is
being fitted.
20 Lubricate the running surface on the
crankshaft and the oil seal lip with clean
engine oil. Locate a new gasket onto the rear
face of the crankcase, and refit the oil seal
housing and seal. To avoid damaging the lips
of the seal as it is passed over the end of the
crankshaft, cut a thin sheet of plastic to suit
and furl it round the rear flange of the crankshaft so that it protrudes, and press the
seal over it. With the seal in position, withdraw
the plastic protector. Centralise the seal on the
shaft, check that the housing-to-sump flange
faces are flush to the sump face on the base of
the crankcase, then insert and tighten the
housing retaining bolts to the specified torque.
21
Refit the sump with reference to Sec-
tion 13.
22 Refit the flywheel/driveplate as described
in Section 18.
23 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6.
24 Refit the engine or transmission, as
applicable.
17 Engine/transmission mountings - renewal
2
1The removal and refitting method for the
transmission bearer and mountings is as
described for HCS engines in Part A, Sec-
tion 15. On XR2i models, it will be necessary
to remove the front suspension crossmember
first (refer to Chapter 10). 2
The engine right-hand mounting is
significantly different to that fitted to HCS
engines, in that it is a two-piece bracket, and
its removal and refitting procedure is detailed
below.
3 First of all support the engine/transmission
assembly as described in Part A, Section 15,
then unscrew and remove the two nuts
securing the two halves of the mounting
bracket assembly.
4 Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the engine bracket section to the
cylinder block (see illustration) .
5 Unscrew and remove the mounting
retaining nut and washer from their location
near the suspension strut.
6 Unscrew and remove the mounting side
bolt from under the right-hand wheel arch.
7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Make sure when refitting
engine/transmission mountings, that any
washers and plates removed during the
dismantling process are refitted in their
original sequence. Do not fully tighten any
mounting bolts until they are all located. As
the mounting bolts and nuts are tightened,
check that the mounting rubbers do not twist.
CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•13
17.4 Exploded view of the right-hand engine mounting16.18 Rear oil seal removal
2B
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18 Flywheel/driveplate-
removal, inspection and
refitting
3
Removal
1 Access to the flywheel (manual transmission)
or driveplate (automatic transmission) is gained
by first removing the transmission (Chapter 7A
or B). On manual transmission models, remove
the clutch (Chapter 6).
2 Unscrew and remove the six
flywheel/driveplate retaining bolts, and
carefully withdraw the flywheel/driveplate from the rear face of the crankshaft. Take care
not to drop the flywheel, as it is heavy. Note
that the retaining bolts must be renewed when
refitting.
Inspection
3
The inspection procedures for the
flywheel/driveplate are the same as those
described for the HCS engine in Part A of this
Chapter, but note that the grinding procedures
do not apply to automatic transmission
models (the driveplate cannot be reground).
Refitting
4 Check that the mating faces of the flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft are clean
before refitting.
5
Smear the new retaining bolt threads with
thread-locking compound. Fit the
flywheel/driveplate into position on the rear end
face of the crankshaft. Check that all of the bolt
holes in the flywheel/driveplate are in exact
alignment with the corresponding bolt holes in
the crankshaft, then insert the newbolts and
tighten them in a progressive sequence to the
specified torque wrench setting.
6 Refit the clutch (manual transmission
models) as described in Chapter 6.
7 Refit the transmission (according to type) as
described in Chapter 7A or B.
2B•14 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures
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2C
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
General
Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, double overhead camshafts
Engine code:1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . L1G
1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . RDB or RQC
Capacity:
1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 1597 cc
1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 1796 cc
Bore:
1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 76.0 mm
1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 80.6 mm
Stroke - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 88.0 mm
Compression ratio: 1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 10.3:1
1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 10.0:1
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)
Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)
Cylinder head
Hydraulic tappet bore inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.395 to 28.425 mm
Camshafts and hydraulic tappets
Camshaft bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25.960 to 25.980 mm
Camshaft bearing journal-to-cylinder head running clearance . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.070 mm
Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 0.080 to 0.220 mm
Lubrication
Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”
Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”
Oil pressure: Idling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 to 2.5 bar
At 4000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 3.7 to 5.5 bars
Oil pump clearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . Not specified
Chapter 2 Part C:
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 11
Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . “Weekly Checks”Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 16
Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 17
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1
Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 9
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Valve clearances - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2C•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Cylinder head cover bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1.5
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5
Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
6850
Camshaft bearing cap bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 1914
Cylinder head bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 2418
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 4533
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 105º
Timing belt cover fasteners: Upper-to-middle (outer) cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3
Cover-to-cylinder head or block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5
Cover studs-to-cylinder head or block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Timing belt tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
3828
Timing belt tensioner backplate locating peg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Timing belt guide pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3828
Water pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 9 7
Auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4735
Front engine lifting eye bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1612
Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts: Shield-to-cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5
Shield/dipstick tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 9 7
Shield/coolant pipe-to-manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2317
Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 115 85
Oil pump-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Oil pick-up pipe-to-pump screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Oil baffle/pump pick-up pipe nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1914
Oil filter adapter-to-pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
2216
Oil pressure warning light switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2720
Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 2015
Coolant pipe-to-sump bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Flywheel/driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
110 81
Crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2216
Engine mountings: Engine front right-hand mounting:Alternator mounting bracket-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Mounting bracket-to-alternator mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . Not available Not available
Mounting through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available Not available
Outer bracket-to-mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58
Inner bracket-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58
Outer bracket-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58
Engine rear right-hand mounting: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bracket-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 to 104 56 to 77
Mounting-to-(cylinder block) bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 98 52 to 72
Mounting-to-body bolt and nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 to 138 75 to 102
Transmission mounting fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to Chapter 7A or 7B
Note: Refer to Part D of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.
2C•2 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 General information
How to use this Chapter
This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair
procedures possible while the engine is still
installed in the vehicle, and includes only the
Specifications relevant to those procedures.
Similar information concerning the 1.3 litre
HCS engines, and the 1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH
and PTE engines, will be found in Parts A
and B of this Chapter respectively. Since these procedures are based on the
assumption that the engine is installed in the
vehicle, if the engine has been removed from
the vehicle and mounted on a stand, some
of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined
will not apply.
Information concerning engine/transmission
removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can
be found in Part D of this Chapter, which also
includes the Specifications relevant to those
procedures.
Engine description
The Zetec engine, (formerly Zeta), is of
sixteen-valve, double overhead camshaft (DOHC), four-cylinder, in-line type, mounted
transversely at the front of the vehicle, with
the transmission on its left-hand end.
Apart from the plastic timing belt covers
and the cast-iron cylinder block/crankcase, all
major engine castings are of aluminium alloy. The crankshaft runs in five main bearings,
the centre main bearing’s upper half
incorporating thrustwashers to control
crankshaft endfloat. The connecting rods
rotate on horizontally-split bearing shells at
their big-ends. The pistons are attached to the
connecting rods by gudgeon pins which are
an interference fit in the connecting rod small-
end eyes. The aluminium alloy pistons are
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fitted with three piston rings: two
compression rings and an oil control ring.
After manufacture, the cylinder bores and
piston skirts are measured and classified into
three grades, which must be carefully
matched together, to ensure the correct
piston/cylinder clearance; no oversizes are
available to permit reboring.The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by coil springs; they operate in guides
which are shrink-fitted into the cylinder head,
as are the valve seat inserts. Both camshafts are driven by the same
toothed timing belt, each operating eight
valves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets,
thus eliminating the need for routine checking
and adjustment of the valve clearances. Each
camshaft rotates in five bearings that are line-
bored directly in the cylinder head and the
(bolted-on) bearing caps; this means that the
bearing caps are not available separately from
the cylinder head, and must not be
interchanged with caps from another engine. The water pump is bolted to the right-hand
end of the cylinder block, inboard of the
timing belt, and is driven with the power
steering pump and alternator by a flat
“polyvee”-type auxiliary drivebelt from the
crankshaft pulley.
When working on this engine, note that
Torx-type (both male and female heads) and
hexagon socket (Allen head) fasteners are
widely used; a good selection of bits, with the
necessary adapters, will be required, so that
these can be unscrewed without damage and,
on reassembly, tightened to the torque
wrench settings specified. Lubrication is by means of an eccentric-
rotor trochoidal pump, which is mounted on
the crankshaft right-hand end, and draws oil
through a strainer located in the sump. The
pump forces oil through an externally-
mounted full-flow cartridge-type filter - on
some versions of the engine, an oil cooler is
fitted to the oil filter mounting, so that clean oil
entering the engine’s galleries is cooled by the
main engine cooling system.
Repair operations possible with
the engine in the car
The following work can be carried out with
the engine in the car:
a) Compression pressure - testing.
b) Cylinder head cover - removal and
refitting.
c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting.
d) Timing belt - renewal.
e) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal and refitting.
f) Camshaft oil seals - renewal.
g) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal and refitting.
h) Cylinder head - removal and refitting.
i) Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising.
j) Sump - removal and refitting.
k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
l) Oil pump - removal and refitting. m)
Flywheel/driveplate - removal and
refitting.
n) Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting.
Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and
connecting rods (after removing the cylinder
head and sump) without removing the engine.
However, this is not recommended. Work of
this nature is more easily and thoroughly
completed with the engine on the bench, as
described in Chapter 2D.
2 Compression test -
description and interpretation
2
Refer to Section 2 in Part A of this Chapter.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating
2
1Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point
of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the
crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC
position at the end of its compression stroke,
and then again at the end of its exhaust
stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC
on the compression stroke for No 1 piston is
used. No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of
the engine. Proceed as follows.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the right-hand roadwheel.
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1) to expose the crankshaft pulley
and timing marks.
5 Fit a spanner onto the crankshaft pulley
bolt, and turn the crankshaft in its normal
direction of rotation (clockwise, viewed from
the pulley end). 6
Note the two pairs of notches in the inner
and outer rims of the crankshaft pulley. In the
normal direction of crankshaft rotation the first
pair of notches are irrelevant to the vehicles
covered in this manual, while the second pair
indicate TDC when aligned with the rear edge
of the raised mark on the sump. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise until the second pair of
notches align with the edge of the sump mark;
use a straight edge extended out from the
sump if greater accuracy is required (see
illustrations) .
7 Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC, one
of them on the compression stroke. Remove
the oil filler cap; if No 4 cylinder exhaust cam
lobe is pointing to the rear of the vehicle and
slightly downwards, it is No 1 cylinder that is
correctly positioned. If the lobe is pointing
horizontally forwards, rotate the crankshaft
one full turn (360º) clockwise until the pulley
notches align again, and the lobe is pointing
to the rear and slightly down. No 1 cylinder
will then be at TDC on the compression
stroke.
8 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at
TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any
of the other cylinders can then be located by
rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180º at a
time and following the firing order (see
Specifications).
9 With the engine set at No 1 piston on TDC
compression, refit the drivebelt cover and the
roadwheel, then lower the vehicle and refit the
spark plugs.
4 Cylinder head cover -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the air inlet components as
necessary for access as described in the
Chapter 4D.
3 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D.
4 On models equipped with power steering,
release the high pressure fluid pipe from the
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•3
3.6b . . . use a straight edge extended out from the sump (arrowed) if greater
accuracy is required3.6a Do not use crankshaft pulley’s first
pair of notches “A” - align second pair of
notches “B” with raised rib on sump “C” . . .
2C
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1.
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clamp brackets and disconnect the pipe joint
union over the top of the cylinder head cover.
Place absorbent rags beneath the union as it
is disconnected to soak up escaping fluid and
plug the open unions to prevent dirt entry and
further fluid loss. Move the pipe(s) clear just
sufficiently to allow removal of the cylinder
head cover.
5Remove the timing belt upper cover (see
Section 7).
6 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the cylinder head cover union (see
illustration) .
7 Unplug the HT leads from the spark plugs
and withdraw them, unclipping the leads from
the cover.
8 Working progressively, unscrew the
cylinder head cover retaining bolts, noting the
spacer sleeve and rubber seal at each, then
withdraw the cover (see illustration).
9 Discard the cover gasket; this mustbe
renewed whenever it is disturbed. Check that
the sealing faces are undamaged, and that the
rubber seal at each retaining bolt is
serviceable; renew any worn or damaged
seals.
Refitting
10 On refitting, clean the cover and cylinder
head gasket faces carefully, then fit a new
gasket to the cover, ensuring that it locates
correctly in the cover grooves (see illustration).
11 Refit the cover to the cylinder head, then
insert the rubber seal and spacer sleeve at
each bolt location (see illustration). Start allbolts finger-tight, ensuring that the gasket
remains seated in its groove.
12
Working in a diagonal sequence from the
centre outwards, and in two stages (see
Specifications), tighten the cover bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
13 Refit the HT leads, clipping them into
place so that they are correctly routed; each is
numbered, and can also be identified by the
numbering on its respective coil terminal.
14 Reconnect the crankcase breather hose,
and refit the timing belt upper cover.
Reconnect and adjust the accelerator cable,
then refit the air inlet components (see
Chapter 4B).
15 On models with power steering,
reconnect the high pressure fluid pipe then
bleed the system as described in Chapter 10.
5 Valve clearances -
general information
Refer to Section 5 in Part B of this Chapter.
6 Crankshaft pulley -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt - either
remove the drivebelt completely, or just secure it clear of the crankshaft pulley,
depending on the work to be carried out (see
Chapter 1).
2
If necessary, rotate the crankshaft until the
timing marks align (see Section 3).
3 The crankshaft must now be locked to
prevent its rotation while the pulley bolt is
unscrewed. To do this, remove the starter
motor (Chapter 5A) and lock the starter ring
gear teeth using a suitable screwdriver.
4 It should now just be possible to reach
between the crankshaft pulley and the body
side member to undo and remove the pulley
bolt and withdraw the pulley. However, if
additional working clearance is needed,
proceed as follows.
5 If not already done, chock the rear wheels
then jack up the front of the car and support it
on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support” ). Remove the front right-hand
roadwheel.
6 Support the weight of the
engine/transmission using a trolley jack, with
a wooden spacer to prevent damage to the
sump.
7 From above, unscrew the three bolts
securing the engine’s front right-hand (Y-
shaped) mounting bracket to the alternator
mounting bracket. Unfasten the engine’s rear
right-hand mounting from the body by
unscrewing first the single nut (and washer)
immediately to the rear of the timing belt
cover, then the bolt in the wheel arch
8 With the engine’s right-hand mountings
unfastened from the body, lower the
engine/transmission on the jack until a socket
spanner can be fitted to the crankshaft pulley
bolt.
9 With the starter ring gear teeth locked,
unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt and
withdraw the pulley (see illustration).
Refitting
10Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; ensure that the pulley’s keyway is
aligned with the crankshaft’s locating key, and
tighten the pulley bolt to the specified torque
wrench setting. If the engine mountings were
disturbed, use the jack to adjust the height of
the engine/transmission until the bolts (and
nut, with washer) can be refitted and screwed
2C•4 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
6.9 Unscrew pulley bolt to release
crankshaft pulley4.11 Ensure rubber seal is fitted to eachcover bolt spacer, as shown
4.10 Ensure gasket is located correctly in cover groove4.8 Removing cylinder head cover
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
4.6 Disconnecting crankcase breather
hose from cylinder head cover unionprocarmanuals.com
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home by hand, then tighten them securely, to
the specified torque wrench settings, where
given.
11Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1 on completion.
7 Timing belt covers -
removal and refitting
4
Upper cover
1 Unscrew the cover’s two mounting bolts
and withdraw it (see illustration) .
2 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; ensure that the cover edges
engage correctly with each other, and note the
torque wrench setting specified for the bolts.
Middle cover
3 Slacken the water pump pulley bolts.
4 Remove the timing belt upper cover.
5 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chap-
ter 1).
6 Unbolt and remove the water pump pulley.
7 Unscrew the middle cover fasteners (one
bolt at the front, one at the lower rear, one
stud at the top rear) and withdraw the cover.
8 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the cover edges
engage correctly with each other, and note
the torque wrench settings specified for the
various fasteners.
Lower cover
9 Slacken the water pump pulley bolts.
10 Remove the crankshaft pulley (see
Section 6) then unbolt and remove the water
pump pulley.
11 Unscrew the three cover securing bolts,
and withdraw it (see illustration) .
12 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; ensure the cover edges engage
correctly with each other, and note the torque
wrench settings specified for the various
fasteners.
Inner shield
13 Remove the timing belt, its tensioner
components and the camshaft sprockets (see
Sections 8 and 9). 14
The shield is secured to the cylinder head
by two bolts at the top, and by two studs
lower down; unscrew these and withdraw the
shield (see illustration) .
15 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; note the torque wrench settings
specified for the various fasteners.
8 Timing belt - removal, refitting
and adjustment
4
Note: To carry out this operation, a new timing
belt (where applicable), a new cylinder head
cover gasket, and some special tools (see text) will be required. If the timing belt is being
removed for the first time since the vehicle
left the factory, a tensioner spring and
retaining pin must be obtained for fitting on
reassembly.
Removal
1
Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Slacken the water pump pulley bolts.
3 Remove the cylinder head cover (see
Section 4).
4 Remove the spark plugs, covering their
holes with clean rag, to prevent dirt or other
foreign bodies from dropping in (see Chap-
ter 1).
5 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chap-
ter 1).
6 Position the engine with No 1 piston at TDC
on compression as described in Section 3.
7 Unbolt and remove the water pump pulley
and, where fitted, the auxiliary drivebelt idler
pulley.
8 Obtain Ford service tool 21-162, or
fabricate a substitute alternative from a strip
of metal 5 mm thick (while the strip’s
thickness iscritical, its length and width are
not, but should be approximately 180 to
230 mm by 20 to 30 mm). Check that Nos 1
and 4 cylinders are at TDC - No 1 on the
compression stroke - by resting this tool on
the cylinder head mating surface, and sliding
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•5
7.11 Removing timing belt lower cover - bolt locations arrowed7.14 Timing belt inner shield fasteners (arrowed)
7.1 Timing belt and cover details2C
1595Ford Fiesta Remake 1 Timing belt upper
cover
2 Inlet camshaft
toothed pulley
3 Exhaust camshaft
toothed pulley
4 Timing belt
5 Timing belt
tensioner
6 Crankshaft toothed pulley
7 Timing belt middle cover
8 Timing belt lower
cover
9 Crankshaft pulley
10 Water pump pulleyprocarmanuals.com
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