1989 FORD FIESTA timing belt

5Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D.
Secure the cable clear of the engine/
transmission.
6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chap-
ter 1).
7 Remove the three screws securing the
wiring “rail” to the rear of the manifold.
Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large
electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure
regulator) to disconnect the engine wiring from
the main loom (see illustration) . Unplug the
electrical connectors on each side of the
ignition coil, and the single connector from
beneath the front of the thermostat housing, to
disconnect the coil and coolant temperature
gauge sender wiring (see illustration).
8 Marking or labelling them as they are
unplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses as
follows:
a) One from the rear of the throttle housing
(only the one hose - there is no need to
disconnect the second hose running to
the fuel pressure regulator).
b) One from the union on the inlet manifold’s
left-hand end.
c) The braking system vacuum servo unit hose (see Chapter 9 for details).
9 Unbolt the engine earth lead from the
cylinder head lifting eye.
10 Unbolt both parts of the exhaust manifold
heat shield. Either remove the dipstick and
tube, or swing them out of the way.
11 Unscrew the pulse-air filter housing
retaining bolt, then disconnect its vacuum
hose.
12 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
13 Disconnect all coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing (see illustration).14
Unscrew the two nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold (Chapter 4B); disconnect the oxygen
sensor wiring, so that it is not strained by the
weight of the exhaust system.
15 Remove the timing belt and both
camshafts (see Sections 8 and 11); if the
cylinder head is to be dismantled, withdraw
the hydraulic tappets.
16 Remove the timing belt inner shield (see
Section 7.
17 Working in the reverseof the sequence
shown in illustration 12.28a, slacken the ten
cylinder head bolts progressively and by one
turn at a time; a Torx key (TX 55 size) will be
required. Remove each bolt in turn, and
ensure that new replacements are obtained
for reassembly; these bolts are subjected to
severe stresses and so mustbe renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition,
whenever they are disturbed.
18 Lift the cylinder head away; use
assistance if possible, as it is a heavy
assembly. If necessary, grip the manifolds
and rock it free from the location dowels on
the top face of the cylinder block. Do not
attempt to tap it sideways or lever between
the head and the block top face. Remove the
gasket, noting the two dowels, and discard it.
Preparation for refitting
19 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care during the cleaning operations,
as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also,
make sure that the carbon is not allowed to
enter the oil and water passages - this is
particularly important for the lubrication
system, as carbon could block the oil supply
to the engine’s components. Using adhesive
tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt
holes in the cylinder block.
20
Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they
may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
21 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this
Chapter if necessary.
Refitting
22 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block. Check that
the two locating dowels are in position in the
cylinder block, and that all cylinder head bolt
holes are free from oil.
23 Position a new gasket over the dowels on
the cylinder block surface, so that the
“TOP/OBEN” mark is uppermost, and with the
tooth (or teeth, according to engine size)
protruding from the front edge (see
illustration) .
24 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley,
and rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise so
that No 1 cylinder’s piston is lowered to
approximately 20 mm before TDC, thus
avoiding any risk of valve/piston contact and
damage during reassembly.
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•11
12.13 Disconnect all coolant hoses from thermostat housing12.7b Unplug connectors (arrowed) todisconnect ignition coil wiring12.7a Unplug engine wiring loom
connector alongside the inlet manifold
12.23 Ensuring protruding tooth (or teeth) “A” are at front and marking “B” is
upwards, locate new cylinder head gasket on dowels “C”
2C
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little
grease in the gap. After
cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away
the remainder with a clean rag.
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25As the cylinder head is such a heavy and
awkward assembly to refit with manifolds, it is
helpful to make up a pair of guide studs from
two 10 mm (thread size) studs approximately
90 mm long, with a screwdriver slot cut in one
end - two old cylinder head bolts with their
heads cut off would make a good starting
point. Screw these guide studs, screwdriver
slot upwards to permit removal, into the bolt
holes at diagonally-opposite corners of the
cylinder block surface (or into those where the
locating dowels are fitted); ensure that
approximately 70 mm of stud protrudes
above the gasket.
26 Refit the cylinder head, sliding it down the
guide studs (if used) and locating it on the
dowels. Unscrew the guide studs (if used)
when the head is in place.
27 Fit the new cylinder head bolts dry ( do not
oil their threads); carefully enter each into its
hole and screw it in, by hand only, until finger-
tight.
28 Working progressively and in the
sequence shown, use first a torque wrench,
then an ordinary socket extension bar and an
angle gauge, to tighten the cylinder head bolts
in the stages given in the Specifications
Section of this Chapter (see illustrations).
Note: Once tightened correctly, following this
procedure, the cylinder head bolts do not
require check-tightening, and must notbe re-
torqued.
29 Refit the hydraulic tappets (if removed),
the camshafts, their oil seals and sprockets
(see Sections 11, 10 and 9, as appropriate).
Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, and
rotate the crankshaft clockwise to return the
pulley notches to the TDC position described
in Section 3.
30 Refit the earth lead to the lifting eye
31 Refit the timing belt and covers, checking
the camshaft alignment (valve timing) and
setting the timing belt tension, as described in
Section 8.
32 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
following points:
a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench settings specified.
b) Refill the cooling system, and top-up the engine oil (see Chapter 1 and “Weekly
Checks”).
c) Check all disturbed joints for signs of oil or coolant leakage, once the engine has
been restarted and warmed-up to normal
operating temperature.
d) If the power steering hoses where
disconnected, bleed the system as
described in Chapter 10 after
reconnection.
13 Sump -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
Note: The full procedure outlined below must
be followed, so that the mating surfaces can
be cleaned and prepared to achieve an oil-
tight joint on reassembly, and so that the
sump can be aligned correctly; depending on
your skill and experience, and the tools and
facilities available, it may be that this task can
be carried out only with the engine removed
from the vehicle. Note that the sump gasket
must be renewed whenever it is disturbed.
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the
engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the
specified torque wrench setting. Although not
strictly necessary as part of the dismantling
procedure, owners are advised to remove and
discard the oil filter, so that it can be renewed
with the oil (see Chapter 1).
3 Refer to Chapter 5A and remove the starter
motor.
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1).
5 Unplug the electrical connector(s) to
disconnect the oxygen sensor.
6 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold, then either unhook all the system’s
rubber mountings and withdraw the complete
exhaust system from under the vehicle, or
remove only the downpipe/catalytic converter
(see Chapter 4E for details). 7
Unscrew the sump-to-transmission bolts,
also any securing the engine/transmission
lower adapter plate.
8 Progressively unscrew the sump retaining
bolts. Break the joint by striking the sump with
the palm of the hand, then lower the sump
and withdraw it with the engine/transmission
lower adapter plate (where fitted); note the
presence of any shims between the sump and
transmission.
9 Remove and discard the sump gasket; this
must be renewed as a matter of course
whenever it is disturbed.
10 While the sump is removed, take the
opportunity to remove the oil pump pick-
up/strainer pipe and to clean it (see Sec-
tion 14).Refitting
11 On reassembly, thoroughly clean and
degrease the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and sump, then use a clean
rag to wipe out the sump and the engine’s
interior. If the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe
was removed, fit a new gasket and refit the
pipe, tightening its screws to the specified
torque wrench setting. Fit the new gasket to
the sump mating surface so that the gasket
fits into the sump groove (see illustration).
12 If the sump is being refitted with the
engine/transmission still connected and in the
vehicle, proceed as follows:
a) Check that the mating surfaces of the sump, the cylinder block/crankcase and
2C•12 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
13.11 Ensure gasket is located correctly in sump groove
12.28c . . . and to Stage 3 using angle gauge12.28b Tightening cylinder head bolts
(Stages 1 and 2) using torque wrench . . .12.28a Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
Note: View from rear of vehicle
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the transmission are absolutely clean and
flat. Any shims found on removal of the
sump must be refitted in their original
locations.
b) Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford
recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions
of the cylinder block/crankcase with the
oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil
seal carrier. Without delay - the sump
bolts must be fully tightened within 10 to
20 minutes of applying the sealant - offer
up the sump and engine/transmission
lower adapter plate, and refit the bolts,
tightening them lightly at first.
c) Ensuring that the engine/transmission
lower adapter plate is correctly located,
firmly press the sump against the
transmission, and tighten the
transmission-to-sump (ie, engine) bolts to
the specified torque wrench setting.
d) Without disturbing the position of the
sump, and working in a diagonal
sequence from the centre outwards,
tighten the sump bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting.
e) Proceed to paragraph 14.
13 If the sump is being refitted with the
engine and transmission separated (in or out
of the vehicle), proceed as follows:
a) Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions
of the cylinder block/crankcase with the
oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier (see illustration). Without delay
- the sump bolts must be fully tightened
within 10 to 20 minutes of applying the
sealant - offer up the sump to the cylinder
block/crankcase, and insert the sump
bolts, tightening them lightly at first.
b) Using a suitable straight edge to check
alignment across the flat-machined faces
of each, move the sump as necessary so
that its left-hand face - including any
shims found on removal - is flush with
that of the cylinder block/crankcase (see
illustration) . Without disturbing the
position of the sump, and working in a
diagonal sequence from the centre
outwards, tighten the sump bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
c) Check again that both faces are flush
before proceeding; if necessary, unbolt
the sump again, clean the mating
surfaces, and repeat the full procedure to
ensure that the sump is correctly aligned.
d) If it is not possible to achieve exact
alignment by moving the sump, shims are
available in thicknesses of 0.25 mm
(colour-coded yellow) or 0.50 mm (colour-
coded black) to eliminate the discrepancy
(see illustration) .
14 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
following points.
a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench settings specified. b)
Always renew any self-locking nuts
disturbed on removal.
c) Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
d) Refill the engine with oil, remembering
that you are advised to fit a new filter (see
Chapter 1).
e) Check for signs of oil or coolant leaks once the engine has been restarted and
warmed-up to normal operating
temperature.
14 Oil pump - removal,
inspection and refitting
4
Removal
Note: While this task is theoretically possible
when the engine is in place in the vehicle, in
practice, it requires so much preliminary
dismantling, and is so difficult to carry out due
to the restricted access, that owners are
advised to remove the engine from the vehicle
first. Note, however, that the oil pump
pressure relief valve can be removed with the
engine in situ - see paragraph 8.
1 Remove the timing belt (see Section 8).
2 Withdraw the crankshaft sprocket and the
thrustwasher behind it, noting which way
round the thrustwasher is fitted (see Sec-
tion 9).
3 Remove the sump (see Section 13).
4 Undo the screws securing the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, then
unscrew the nut and withdraw the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe. Discard the gasket.
5 Unbolt the pump from the cylinder
block/crankcase (see illustration). Withdraw
and discard the gasket, and remove the
crankshaft right-hand oil seal. Thoroughly
clean and degrease all components,
particularly the mating surfaces of the pump,
the sump, and the cylinder block/crankcase.
Inspection
6 Unscrew the Torx screws, and remove the
pump cover plate; noting any identification
marks on the rotors, withdraw the rotors (see
illustration) .
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•13
13.13c Sump-to-cylinder block/crankcase
alignment shims
1 Fitting points on sump 2 Shim13.13b Checking alignment of sump with cylinder block/crankcase13.13a Apply sealant (arrowed) as directed when refitting sump
14.6 Withdrawing oil pump inner rotor14.5 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove oil pump
2C
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4Check the mountings to see if the rubber is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal components. Sometimes, the rubber
will split right down the centre.
5 Check for relative movement between each
mounting’s brackets and the engine/
transmission or body (use a large screwdriver
or lever to attempt to move the mountings). If
movement is noted, lower the engine and
check-tighten the mounting fasteners.
Renewal
6 The engine mountings can be removed if
the weight of the engine/transmission is
supported by one of the following alternative
methods.
7 Either support the weight of the assembly
from underneath using a jack and a suitable
piece of wood between the jack saddle and
the sump or transmission (to prevent
damage), or from above by attaching a hoist
to the engine. A third method is to use a
suitable support bar with end pieces which
will engage in the water channel each side of
the bonnet lid aperture. Using an adjustable
hook and chain connected to the engine, the
weight of the engine and transmission can
then be taken from the mountings.
Engine front right-hand mounting
8 This mounting consists of a two-piece
bracket bolted to the inner wing panel,
connected by the bonded-rubber mounting
itself to a (Y-shaped) bracket, bolted (via the
alternator mounting bracket) to the cylinder
block (see illustration) .
9 Unscrew the three bolts securing the front
right-hand mounting bracket to the alternator
mounting bracket.
10 Unscrew the bolts securing the mounting
bracket to the inner wing panel and chassis
rail and withdraw the mounting assembly.
Engine rear right-hand mounting
11 This mounting consists of the bonded-
rubber mounting secured to the inner wing
panel by a (horizontal) bolt, accessible from
within the wheel arch, and a (vertical) stud, the
retaining nut of which is accessible from the
engine compartment. The mounting is bolted
to a bracket, which is in turn bolted to the
cylinder block.
12 Unbolt the mounting from the body by
unscrewing first the single nut (and washer)
immediately to the rear of the timing belt
cover, then the bolt in the wheel arch.
13 Unbolt the mounting from the cylinder
block bracket and withdraw the mounting
assembly.
Transmission bearer and mountings
14 On XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember as described in
Chapter 10.
15 Unscrew and remove the two nuts
securing the mountings (front and rear) to the
transmission bearer
16 Support the transmission bearer, then
undo and remove the four retaining bolts from
the floorpan, two at the front and two at the
rear, and lower the transmission bearer from
the vehicle. Note plate fitment, as applicable,
for reassembly.
17 To remove the mountings from the
transmission, unscrew the upper bolt and
lower stud (front mounting) or the three nuts
(rear mounting) and withdraw the relevant
mounting and bracket assembly from the
transmission.
All mountings
18 Refitting of all mountings is a reversal of
removal. Make sure that the original sequence
of assembly of washers and plates is
maintained.
19 Do not fully tighten any mounting bolts
until they are all located. As the mounting
bolts and nuts are tightened, check that the
mounting rubbers do not twist.
17 Flywheel/driveplate -
removal, inspection and
refitting
3
Removal
1 Remove the transmission (see the relevant
Part of Chapter 7).
2 Where appropriate, remove the clutch
(Chapter 6).
3 Use a centre-punch or paint to make alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate
and crankshaft, to ensure correct alignment
during refitting.
4
Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from turning
by locking the ring gear teeth, or by bolting a
strap between the flywheel/driveplate and the
cylinder block/crankcase. Slacken the bolts
evenly until all are free.
5 Remove each bolt in turn, and ensure that
new replacements are obtained for
reassembly; these bolts are subjected to
severe stresses, and so must be renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition,
whenever they are disturbed.
6 Noting the reinforcing plate (automatic
transmission models only), withdraw the
flywheel/driveplate; do not drop it - it is very
heavy.
Inspection
7 Clean the flywheel/driveplate to remove
grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks,
rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks.
Light scoring can be removed with emery
cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear
teeth. Lay the flywheel/driveplate on a flat
surface, and use a straight edge to check for
warpage.
8 Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of
the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. If
the crankshaft left-hand seal is leaking, renew
it (see Section 15) before refitting the
flywheel/driveplate.
9 While the flywheel/driveplate is removed,
clean carefully its inboard (right-hand) face,
particularly the recesses which serve as the
reference points for the crankshaft speed/
position sensor. Clean the sensor’s tip, and
check that the sensor is securely fastened.
Refitting
10 On refitting, ensure that the engine/
transmission adapter plate is in place (where
necessary), then fit the flywheel/driveplate to
the crankshaft so that all bolt holes align - it
will fit only one way - check this using the
marks made on removal. Do not forget the
reinforcing plate (automatic transmission
models).
11 Lock the flywheel/driveplate by the
method used on dismantling. Working in a
diagonal sequence to tighten them evenly,
and increasing to the final amount in two or
three stages, tighten the new bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
12 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, referring to
the relevant text for details where required.
2C•16 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
16.8 Engine front right-hand mounting
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25On automatic transmission models, clean
around the unions, then disconnect the fluid
pipes from the transmission. Plug the
openings in the transmission and the pipe
unions after removal.
26 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the front
suspension crossmember.
27 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold. Undo the nuts securing the catalytic
converter to the rear part of the exhaust
system, and remove the converter and
downpipe assembly.
28 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock braking
system, refer to Chapter 9 and release the
right-hand modulator from its mounting
bracket without disconnecting the rigid brake
pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator
securely to the bulkhead. Additionally, undo
the three bolts securing the modulator bracket.
29 Disconnect both anti-roll bar links from
their respective suspension struts, and both
track rod end ball joints from their spindle
carriers (see Chapter 10).
30 Unscrew the retaining nut and withdraw
the Torx-type clamp bolt securing the lower
suspension arm to the spindle carrier on each
side.
31 Insert a suitable lever between the right-
hand driveshaft inner joint and the
transmission housing, and prise free the
driveshaft from the transmission; be prepared
for oil spillage from the transmission case
through the vacated driveshaft aperture. As it
is being prised free, simultaneously pull the
roadwheel outwards on that side to enable the
driveshaft inboard end to separate from the
transmission. Once it is free, suspend and
support the driveshaft from the steering gear,
to prevent unnecessary strain being placed on
the driveshaft joints.
32 Insert a suitable plastic plug (or if
available, an old driveshaft joint), into the
transmission driveshaft aperture, to
immobilise the gears of the differential unit.
33 Proceed as described above in
paragraphs 31 and 32, and disconnect the
left-hand driveshaft from the transmission.
34 Remove the oil filter, referring to Chapter 1
if necessary.
35 Connect a suitable lift hoist and sling to
the engine, connecting to the lift eyes. When
securely connected, take the weight of the
engine/transmission unit so that the tension is
relieved from the mountings.
36 Unbolt the engine rear right-hand
mounting from the body (one bolt in the wheel
arch, one nut in the engine compartment),
then unbolt the engine front right-hand
mounting from the alternator mounting
bracket. Unbolt the transmission bearer from
the underbody.
37 The engine/transmission unit should now
be hanging on the hoist only, with all
components which connect it to the rest of
the vehicle disconnected or removed, and
secured well clear of the unit. Make a final
check that this is the case. 38
Lower the engine/transmission to the
ground, and withdraw it from under the
vehicle.
39 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 7,
separate the transmission from the engine.
40 While the engine/transmission is removed,
check the mountings; renew them if they are
worn or damaged. Similarly, check the
condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses
and pipes (see Chapter 1); components that
are normally hidden can now be checked
properly, and should be renewed if there is
any doubt at all about their condition. Where
the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission,
take the opportunity to overhaul the clutch
components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components (such as the transmission oil
seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any
that are damaged or worn.
Refitting
41 Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
note the following additional points:
a) Refer to the applicable Chapters and Sections as for removal.
b) Fit new spring clips to the grooves in the
inboard end of the right- and left-hand
driveshaft joints. Lubricate the splines
with transmission oil prior to fitting.
c) Renew the exhaust flange gaskets when reconnecting the exhaust. Ensure that all
wires are routed clear of the exhaust
system, and that the heat shields are
securely and correctly fitted.
d) Ensure that all earth lead connections are
clean and securely made.
e) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
f) Fit a new oil filter, and refill the engine and transmission with oil, with reference to
Chapter 1.
g) Refill the cooling system with reference to
Chapter 1.
h) Bleed the power steering system with reference to Chapter 10.
42 When engine and transmission refitting is
complete, refer to the procedures described
in Section 19 before restarting the engine.
6 Engine overhaul - preliminary information
It is much easier to dismantle and work on
the engine if it is mounted on a portable
engine stand. These stands can often be hired
from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is
mounted on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate
should be removed so that the stand bolts
can be tightened into the end of the cylinder
block/crankcase. If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it suitably supported on a sturdy, workbench or on the
floor. Be careful not to tip or drop the engine
when working without a stand.
If you intend to obtain a reconditioned
engine, all ancillaries must be removed first, to
be transferred to the replacement engine (just
as they will if you are doing a complete engine
overhaul yourself). These components include
the following:
a) Alternator/power steering pump and
mounting brackets.
b) DIS/E-DIS ignition coil unit (and mounting
bracket), distributor, HT leads and spark
plugs.
c) The thermostat and housing cover.
d) Carburettor/fuel injection system
components.
e) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.
f) Oil filter.
g) Fuel pump.
h) Engine mountings.
i) Flywheel/driveplate.
j) Water pump.
Note: When removing the external
components from the engine, pay close
attention to details that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the fitted
positions of gaskets, seals, washers, bolts and
other small items. If you are obtaining a “short” engine
(cylinder block/crankcase, crankshaft, pistons
and connecting rods all assembled), then the
cylinder head, timing chain/belt (together with
tensioner, tensioner and idler pulleys and
covers) sump and oil pump will have to be
removed also. If a complete overhaul is planned, the
engine can be dismantled in the order given
below, referring to Part A, B or C of this
Chapter unless otherwise stated.
a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.
b) Timing chain/belt, tensioner and
sprockets.
c) Cylinder head.
d) Flywheel/driveplate.
e) Sump.
f) Oil pump.
g) Pistons (with connecting rods).
h) Crankshaft.
i) Camshaft and tappets (HCS engines).
7 Cylinder head - dismantling
4
Note:New and reconditioned cylinder heads
are available from the manufacturers, and from
engine overhaul specialists. Due to the fact
that some specialist tools are required for the
dismantling and inspection procedures, and
new components may not be readily available,
it may be more practical and economical for
the home mechanic to purchase a
reconditioned head, rather than to dismantle,
inspect and recondition the original head.
1 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Part A, B or C of this Chapter (as applicable).
2D•12 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
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2If not already done, remove the inlet and
exhaust manifolds with reference to the
relevant Part of Chapter 4.
3 Proceed as follows according to engine
type.
HCS engines
4 Valve removal should commence with No 1
valve (nearest the timing chain end).
5 To remove the valve springs and valves
from the cylinder head, a standard valve
spring compressor will required. Fit the spring
compressor to the first valve and spring to be
removed. Take care not to damage the valve
stem with the compressor, and do not over-
compress the spring, or the valve stem may
bend. When tightening the compressor, it may
be found that the spring retainer does not
release and the collets are then difficult to
remove. In this instance, remove the
compressor, then press a piece of tube (or a
socket of suitable diameter) so that it does not
interfere with the removal of the collets,
against the retainer’s outer rim. Tap the tube
(or socket) with a hammer to unsettle the
components.
6 Refit the compressor, and wind it in to
enable the collets to be extracted (see
illustration) .
7 Loosen off the compressor, and remove the
retainer and spring. Withdraw the valve from
the cylinder head (see illustrations) .
8 Prise up and remove the valve stem seal.
9 Repeat the removal procedure with each of the remaining seven valve assemblies in turn.
As they are removed, keep the individual
valves and their components together, and in
their respective order of fitting, by placing
them in a separate labelled bag
(see
illustration) .CVH and PTE engines
10Remove the camshaft, rocker arms and
tappets as described in Part B of this Chapter,
being careful to store the hydraulic tappets as
described.
11 Valve removal should commence with
No 1 valve (nearest the timing belt end).
12 Using a standard valve spring com-
pressor, compress the valve spring (and
upper retainer) just enough to enable the split
collets to be released from the groove in the
top of the valve stem, then separate and
extract the split collets from the valve. Do not
compress the spring any further than is
necessary, or the valve stem may bend. If the
valve spring retainer does not release from the
collets as the spring is compressed, remove
the compressor, and position a piece of
suitable tube over the end of the retainer, so
that it does not impinge on the collets. Place a
small block of wood under the valve head
(with the head resting face down on the
workbench), then tap the end of the tube with
a hammer. Now refit the compressor tool, and
compress the valve spring. The collets should
release.
13 Extract the split collets, then slowly unscrew, release and remove the compressor.
14
Withdraw the upper retainer and the valve
spring from the valve stem, then remove the
valve from the underside of the cylinder head.
Use a suitable screwdriver or pliers to prise
free and remove the valve stem oil seal from
the guide (see illustration) .
15 Remove the lower retainer.
16 Repeat the removal procedure with each
of the remaining valve assemblies in turn. As
they are removed, keep the valves and their
associated components together, and in the
originally-installed order, by placing them in a
separate labelled bag (see illustration 7.9).
Zetec engines
17Remove the camshafts and hydraulic
tappets as described in Part C of this Chapter,
being careful to store the hydraulic tappets as
described.
18 Using a valve spring compressor,
compress each valve spring in turn until the
split collets can be removed. A special valve
spring compressor will be required, to reach
into the deep wells in the cylinder head
without risk of damaging the hydraulic tappet
bores; such compressors are now widely
available from most good motor accessory
shops. Release the compressor, and lift off
the spring upper seat and spring.
19 If, when the valve spring compressor is
screwed down, the spring upper seat refuses
to free and expose the split collets, gently tap
the top of the tool, directly over the upper
seat, with a light hammer. This will free the
seat.
20 Withdraw the valve through the
combustion chamber. If it binds in the guide
(won’t pull through), push it back in, and de-
burr the area around the collet groove with a
fine file or whetstone; take care not to mark
the hydraulic tappet bores.
21 Ford recommend the use of their service
tool 21-160 to extract the valve spring lower
seat/stem oil seals; while this is almost
indispensable if the seals are to be removed
without risk of damage to the cylinder head, a
serviceable substitute can be made from a
strong spring of suitable size. Screw on the
tool or spring so that it bites into the seal, then
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•13
7.7b . . . followed by the valve7.7a Remove the valve spring retainer and spring . . .7.6 Compress the valve spring to removethe collets
7.14 Prise off the valve stem oil seal7.9 Use a labelled plastic bag to store andidentify valve components
2D
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draw the seal off the valve guide (see
illustrations) .
22 It is essential that the valves are kept
together with their collets, spring seats and
springs, and in their correct sequence (unless
they are so badly worn that they are to be
renewed). If they are going to be kept and
used again, place them in a labelled polythene
bag or similar small container (see illus-
tration 7.9) . Note that No 1 valve is nearest to
the timing belt end of the engine.
23 If the oil-retaining valve is to be removed
(to flush out the cylinder head oil galleries
thoroughly), seek the advice of a Ford dealer
as to how it can be extracted; it may be
that the only course of action involves
destroying the valve as follows. Screw a self-
tapping screw into its ventilation hole, and use
the screw to provide purchase with which the
valve can be drawn out; a new valve must be
purchased and pressed into place on
reassembly (see illustration) .
8 Cylinder head and valve
components - cleaning and
inspection
4
1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head and
valve components, followed by a detailed
inspection, will enable you to decide how
much valve service work must be carried out
during the engine overhaul. Note:If the engine has been severely overheated, it is best
to assume that the cylinder head is warped,
and to check carefully for signs of this.
Cleaning
2
Scrape away all traces of old gasket
material and sealing compound from the
cylinder head.
3 Scrape away the carbon from the
combustion chambers and ports, then wash
the cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin or a
suitable solvent.
4 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits that
may have formed on the valves, then use a
power-operated wire brush to remove
deposits from the valve heads and stems.
Inspection
Note: Be sure to perform all the following
inspection procedures before concluding that
the services of a machine shop or engine
overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of
all items that require attention.
Cylinder head
5 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,
evidence of coolant leakage, and other
damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder
head should be obtained.
6 Use a straight edge and feeler blade to
check that the cylinder head gasket surface is
not distorted (see illustration) . If it is, it may
be possible to re-surface it.
7 Examine the valve seats in each of the
combustion chambers. If they are severely pitted, cracked or burned, then they will need
to be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaul
specialist. If they are only slightly pitted, this
can be removed by grinding-in the valve
heads and seats with fine valve-grinding
compound, as described below.
8
If the valve guides are worn, indicated by a
side-to-side motion of the valve, new guides
must be fitted. Measure the diameter of the
existing valve stems (see below) and the bore
of the guides, then calculate the clearance,
and compare the result with the specified
value; if the clearance is excessive, renew the
valves or guides as necessary.
9 The renewal of valve guides is best carried
out by an engine overhaul specialist.
10 If the valve seats are to be re-cut, this
must be done only afterthe guides have been
renewed.
Valves
11 Examine the head of each valve for
pitting, burning, cracks and general wear, and
check the valve stem for scoring and wear
ridges. Rotate the valve, and check for any
obvious indication that it is bent. Look for pits
and excessive wear on the tip of each valve
stem. Renew any valve that shows any such
signs of wear or damage.
12 If the valve appears satisfactory at this
stage, measure the valve stem diameter at
several points, using a micrometer (see
illustration) . Any significant difference in the
readings obtained indicates wear of the valve
stem. Should any of these conditions be
apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed.
13 If the valves are in satisfactory condition,
they should be ground (lapped) into their
respective seats, to ensure a smooth gas-
tight seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if
it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound
only should be used to produce the required
finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound
should notbe used unless a seat is badly
burned or deeply pitted; if this is the case, the
cylinder head and valves should be inspected
by an expert, to decide whether seat re-
cutting, or even the renewal of the valve or
seat insert, is required.
14 Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside-down on a
2D•14 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
8.12 Measuring the diameter of a valve
stem8.6 Check the cylinder head gasketsurfaces for warpage, in the planes
indicated (A to G)
7.23 Cylinder head oil-retaining valve (arrowed)7.21b . . . can be replaced by home-madetool if suitable spring can be found7.21a Ford service tool in use to removevalve spring lower seat/stem oil seals . . .
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6Extract each tappet in turn. Keep them in
order of fitting by inserting them in a card with
eight holes in it, numbered 1 to 8 (from the
timing chain end of the engine). A valve
grinding suction tool will be found to be useful
for the removal of tappets (see illustration).
Inspection
7Examine the camshaft bearing journals and
lobes for damage or excessive wear. If
evident, the camshaft must be renewed.
8 Examine the camshaft bearing internal
surfaces for signs of damage or excessive
wear. If evident, the bearings must be
renewed by a Ford dealer.
9 If not carried out on removal, check the
camshaft endfloat as described in para-
graph 3. If the endfloat is exceeds the
specified tolerance, renew the thrust plate.
10 It is seldom that the tappets wear
excessively in their bores, but it is likely that
after a high mileage, the cam lobe contact
surfaces will show signs of depression or
grooving.
11 Where this condition is evident, renew the
tappets. Grinding out the grooves and wear
marks will reduce the thickness of the surface
hardening, and will accelerate further wear.
Refitting
12 To refit the tappets and the camshaft, it is
essential that the crankcase is inverted.
13 Lubricate their bores and the tappets.
Insert each tappet fully into its original bore in
the cylinder block.
14 Lubricate the camshaft bearings,
camshaft and thrust plate, then insert the
camshaft into the crankcase from the timing
case end.
15 Fit the thrust plate and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque setting
(see illustration) . Check that the camshaft is
able to rotate freely, and that the endfloat is as
specified.
11 Piston/connecting rod
assemblies - removal and
inspection
4
Removal
HCS engines
1 Refer to Part A of this Chapter and remove
the cylinder head and sump, then remove the
oil pick-up pipe and strainer.
2 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so
that the crankshaft can be rotated. Check that
the connecting rod big-end caps have
adjacent matching numbers facing towards
the camshaft side of the engine. If no marks
can be seen, make your own before disturbing
any of the components, so that you can be
certain of refitting each piston/connecting rod
assembly the right way round, to its correct
(original) bore, with the cap also the right way
round.
CVH and PTE engines
3 Refer to Part B of this Chapter and remove
the cylinder head and sump, then remove the
oil pick-up pipe and strainer.
4 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so
that the crankshaft can be rotated. Check that
the connecting rods have identification
numbers - these should be found on the
exhaust side of the big-ends. No 1 assembly
is at the timing belt end of the engine. If no
marks can be seen, make your own before
disturbing any of the components, so that you
can be certain of refitting each piston/
connecting rod assembly the right way round,
to its correct (original) bore, with the cap also
the right way round.
Zetec engines
5 Refer to Part C of this Chapter and remove
the cylinder head and sump.
6 Undo the screws securing the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, then
unscrew the four nuts, and withdraw the oil
pump pick-up/strainer pipe and oil baffle (see
illustration) .
7 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so
that the crankshaft can be rotated. Note that
each piston/connecting rod assembly can be
identified by its cylinder number (counting
from the timing belt end of the engine) etched
into the flat-machined surface of both the
connecting rod and its cap. The numbers are
visible from the front (exhaust side) of the
engine (see illustration) . Furthermore, each piston has an arrow stamped into its crown,
pointing towards the timing belt end of the
engine. If no marks can be seen, make your
own before disturbing any of the components,
so that you can be certain of refitting each
piston/connecting rod assembly the right way
round, to its correct (original) bore, with the
cap also the right way round.
All engines
8
Use your fingernail to feel if a ridge has
formed at the upper limit of ring travel (about a
quarter-inch down from the top of each
cylinder). If carbon deposits or cylinder wear
have produced ridges, they must be
completely removed with a special tool.
Follow the tool manufacturer’s instructions
provided. Failure to remove the ridges before
attempting to remove the piston/connecting
rod assemblies may result in piston ring
breakage.
9 Slacken each of the big-end bearing cap
bolts half a turn at a time, until they can be
removed by hand. Remove the No 1 cap and
bearing shell. Don’t drop the shell out of the
cap.
10 Remove the upper bearing shell, and push
the connecting rod/piston assembly out
through the top of the engine. Use a wooden
hammer handle to push on the connecting
rod’s bearing recess. If resistance is felt,
double- check that all of the ridge was
removed from the cylinder.
11 Repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinders.
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•17
10.15 Refitting the camshaft thrust plate10.6 Tappet withdrawal using a valve grinding tool suction cup
11.7 Each connecting rod and big-endbearing cap will have a flat-machined
surface with the cylinder number etched in it11.6 Removing the oil baffle to provide access to crankshaft and bearings
2D
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