1989 FORD FIESTA check transmission fluid

2C
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
General
Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, double overhead camshafts
Engine code:1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . L1G
1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . RDB or RQC
Capacity:
1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 1597 cc
1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 1796 cc
Bore:
1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 76.0 mm
1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 80.6 mm
Stroke - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 88.0 mm
Compression ratio: 1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 10.3:1
1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 10.0:1
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)
Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)
Cylinder head
Hydraulic tappet bore inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.395 to 28.425 mm
Camshafts and hydraulic tappets
Camshaft bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25.960 to 25.980 mm
Camshaft bearing journal-to-cylinder head running clearance . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.070 mm
Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 0.080 to 0.220 mm
Lubrication
Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”
Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”
Oil pressure: Idling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 to 2.5 bar
At 4000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 3.7 to 5.5 bars
Oil pump clearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . Not specified
Chapter 2 Part C:
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 11
Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . “Weekly Checks”Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 16
Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 17
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1
Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 9
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Valve clearances - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2C•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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fitted with three piston rings: two
compression rings and an oil control ring.
After manufacture, the cylinder bores and
piston skirts are measured and classified into
three grades, which must be carefully
matched together, to ensure the correct
piston/cylinder clearance; no oversizes are
available to permit reboring.The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by coil springs; they operate in guides
which are shrink-fitted into the cylinder head,
as are the valve seat inserts. Both camshafts are driven by the same
toothed timing belt, each operating eight
valves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets,
thus eliminating the need for routine checking
and adjustment of the valve clearances. Each
camshaft rotates in five bearings that are line-
bored directly in the cylinder head and the
(bolted-on) bearing caps; this means that the
bearing caps are not available separately from
the cylinder head, and must not be
interchanged with caps from another engine. The water pump is bolted to the right-hand
end of the cylinder block, inboard of the
timing belt, and is driven with the power
steering pump and alternator by a flat
“polyvee”-type auxiliary drivebelt from the
crankshaft pulley.
When working on this engine, note that
Torx-type (both male and female heads) and
hexagon socket (Allen head) fasteners are
widely used; a good selection of bits, with the
necessary adapters, will be required, so that
these can be unscrewed without damage and,
on reassembly, tightened to the torque
wrench settings specified. Lubrication is by means of an eccentric-
rotor trochoidal pump, which is mounted on
the crankshaft right-hand end, and draws oil
through a strainer located in the sump. The
pump forces oil through an externally-
mounted full-flow cartridge-type filter - on
some versions of the engine, an oil cooler is
fitted to the oil filter mounting, so that clean oil
entering the engine’s galleries is cooled by the
main engine cooling system.
Repair operations possible with
the engine in the car
The following work can be carried out with
the engine in the car:
a) Compression pressure - testing.
b) Cylinder head cover - removal and
refitting.
c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting.
d) Timing belt - renewal.
e) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal and refitting.
f) Camshaft oil seals - renewal.
g) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal and refitting.
h) Cylinder head - removal and refitting.
i) Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising.
j) Sump - removal and refitting.
k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
l) Oil pump - removal and refitting. m)
Flywheel/driveplate - removal and
refitting.
n) Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting.
Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and
connecting rods (after removing the cylinder
head and sump) without removing the engine.
However, this is not recommended. Work of
this nature is more easily and thoroughly
completed with the engine on the bench, as
described in Chapter 2D.
2 Compression test -
description and interpretation
2
Refer to Section 2 in Part A of this Chapter.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating
2
1Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point
of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the
crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC
position at the end of its compression stroke,
and then again at the end of its exhaust
stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC
on the compression stroke for No 1 piston is
used. No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of
the engine. Proceed as follows.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the right-hand roadwheel.
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1) to expose the crankshaft pulley
and timing marks.
5 Fit a spanner onto the crankshaft pulley
bolt, and turn the crankshaft in its normal
direction of rotation (clockwise, viewed from
the pulley end). 6
Note the two pairs of notches in the inner
and outer rims of the crankshaft pulley. In the
normal direction of crankshaft rotation the first
pair of notches are irrelevant to the vehicles
covered in this manual, while the second pair
indicate TDC when aligned with the rear edge
of the raised mark on the sump. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise until the second pair of
notches align with the edge of the sump mark;
use a straight edge extended out from the
sump if greater accuracy is required (see
illustrations) .
7 Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC, one
of them on the compression stroke. Remove
the oil filler cap; if No 4 cylinder exhaust cam
lobe is pointing to the rear of the vehicle and
slightly downwards, it is No 1 cylinder that is
correctly positioned. If the lobe is pointing
horizontally forwards, rotate the crankshaft
one full turn (360º) clockwise until the pulley
notches align again, and the lobe is pointing
to the rear and slightly down. No 1 cylinder
will then be at TDC on the compression
stroke.
8 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at
TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any
of the other cylinders can then be located by
rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180º at a
time and following the firing order (see
Specifications).
9 With the engine set at No 1 piston on TDC
compression, refit the drivebelt cover and the
roadwheel, then lower the vehicle and refit the
spark plugs.
4 Cylinder head cover -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the air inlet components as
necessary for access as described in the
Chapter 4D.
3 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D.
4 On models equipped with power steering,
release the high pressure fluid pipe from the
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•3
3.6b . . . use a straight edge extended out from the sump (arrowed) if greater
accuracy is required3.6a Do not use crankshaft pulley’s first
pair of notches “A” - align second pair of
notches “B” with raised rib on sump “C” . . .
2C
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1.
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clamp brackets and disconnect the pipe joint
union over the top of the cylinder head cover.
Place absorbent rags beneath the union as it
is disconnected to soak up escaping fluid and
plug the open unions to prevent dirt entry and
further fluid loss. Move the pipe(s) clear just
sufficiently to allow removal of the cylinder
head cover.
5Remove the timing belt upper cover (see
Section 7).
6 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the cylinder head cover union (see
illustration) .
7 Unplug the HT leads from the spark plugs
and withdraw them, unclipping the leads from
the cover.
8 Working progressively, unscrew the
cylinder head cover retaining bolts, noting the
spacer sleeve and rubber seal at each, then
withdraw the cover (see illustration).
9 Discard the cover gasket; this mustbe
renewed whenever it is disturbed. Check that
the sealing faces are undamaged, and that the
rubber seal at each retaining bolt is
serviceable; renew any worn or damaged
seals.
Refitting
10 On refitting, clean the cover and cylinder
head gasket faces carefully, then fit a new
gasket to the cover, ensuring that it locates
correctly in the cover grooves (see illustration).
11 Refit the cover to the cylinder head, then
insert the rubber seal and spacer sleeve at
each bolt location (see illustration). Start allbolts finger-tight, ensuring that the gasket
remains seated in its groove.
12
Working in a diagonal sequence from the
centre outwards, and in two stages (see
Specifications), tighten the cover bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
13 Refit the HT leads, clipping them into
place so that they are correctly routed; each is
numbered, and can also be identified by the
numbering on its respective coil terminal.
14 Reconnect the crankcase breather hose,
and refit the timing belt upper cover.
Reconnect and adjust the accelerator cable,
then refit the air inlet components (see
Chapter 4B).
15 On models with power steering,
reconnect the high pressure fluid pipe then
bleed the system as described in Chapter 10.
5 Valve clearances -
general information
Refer to Section 5 in Part B of this Chapter.
6 Crankshaft pulley -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt - either
remove the drivebelt completely, or just secure it clear of the crankshaft pulley,
depending on the work to be carried out (see
Chapter 1).
2
If necessary, rotate the crankshaft until the
timing marks align (see Section 3).
3 The crankshaft must now be locked to
prevent its rotation while the pulley bolt is
unscrewed. To do this, remove the starter
motor (Chapter 5A) and lock the starter ring
gear teeth using a suitable screwdriver.
4 It should now just be possible to reach
between the crankshaft pulley and the body
side member to undo and remove the pulley
bolt and withdraw the pulley. However, if
additional working clearance is needed,
proceed as follows.
5 If not already done, chock the rear wheels
then jack up the front of the car and support it
on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support” ). Remove the front right-hand
roadwheel.
6 Support the weight of the
engine/transmission using a trolley jack, with
a wooden spacer to prevent damage to the
sump.
7 From above, unscrew the three bolts
securing the engine’s front right-hand (Y-
shaped) mounting bracket to the alternator
mounting bracket. Unfasten the engine’s rear
right-hand mounting from the body by
unscrewing first the single nut (and washer)
immediately to the rear of the timing belt
cover, then the bolt in the wheel arch
8 With the engine’s right-hand mountings
unfastened from the body, lower the
engine/transmission on the jack until a socket
spanner can be fitted to the crankshaft pulley
bolt.
9 With the starter ring gear teeth locked,
unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt and
withdraw the pulley (see illustration).
Refitting
10Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; ensure that the pulley’s keyway is
aligned with the crankshaft’s locating key, and
tighten the pulley bolt to the specified torque
wrench setting. If the engine mountings were
disturbed, use the jack to adjust the height of
the engine/transmission until the bolts (and
nut, with washer) can be refitted and screwed
2C•4 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
6.9 Unscrew pulley bolt to release
crankshaft pulley4.11 Ensure rubber seal is fitted to eachcover bolt spacer, as shown
4.10 Ensure gasket is located correctly in cover groove4.8 Removing cylinder head cover
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
4.6 Disconnecting crankcase breather
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25Unscrew the retaining bolt, and detach
the shift rod stabiliser from the transmission.
As it is detached, note the washer located
between the stabiliser and the transmission.
Tie the stabiliser and the shift rod up out of
the way.
Automatic transmission models
26 Unclip and detach the wiring connector
from the starter inhibitor switch (on the
transmission housing).
27 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 4
for details, unhook the accelerator (cam plate)
cable from the carburettor or fuel injection unit
(as applicable) at the transmission end of
the cable. Undo the retaining bolt and
detach the cable sheath bracket from the
transmission. Detach the cam plate cable
from the link.
28 Undo the two nuts from the selector cable
bracket which connects it to the lever on the
selector shaft. Disconnect the yoke from the
lever on the selector shaft and the cable from
the lever.
29 Unscrew the union nuts, and disconnect
the oil cooler feed and return pipes from the
transmission. Allow for a certain amount of
spillage, and plug the connections to prevent
the ingress of dirt.
All models
30 Unscrew the retaining nut and withdraw
the Torx-type clamp bolt securing the lower
suspension arm to the spindle carrier on each
side.
31 Refer to Chapter 10 for details, and
detach the right-hand and left-hand track rod
end balljoints from the spindle carriers.
32 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock
braking system, refer to Chapter 9 and release
the right-hand modulator from its mounting
bracket without disconnecting the rigid brake
pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator
securely to the bulkhead. Additionally, undo
the three bolts securing the modulator
bracket.
33 Insert a suitable lever between the right-
hand driveshaft inner joint and the
transmission housing, and prise free the
driveshaft from the transmission; be prepared
for oil spillage from the transmission case
through the vacated driveshaft aperture. As it
is being prised free, simultaneously pull the
roadwheel outwards on that side, to enable
the driveshaft inboard end to separate
from the transmission. Once it is free,
suspend and support the driveshaft from the
steering gear, to prevent unnecessary strain
being placed on the driveshaft joints.
34 Insert a suitable plastic plug (or if
available, an old driveshaft joint), into the
transmission driveshaft aperture, to
immobilise the gears of the differential unit.
35 Proceed as described above in
paragraphs 33 and 34, and disconnect the
left-hand driveshaft from the transmission.
36 Connect a suitable lift hoist and sling to
the engine, connecting to the lifting eyes. When securely connected, take the weight of
the engine/transmission unit so that the
tension is relieved from the mountings.
37
Undo the retaining bolts and nuts and
detach the right-hand engine mounting from
the vehicle body.
38 Undo the four bolts securing the
transmission bearer to the underside of the
vehicle body. The transmission bearer is
removed with the engine/transmission
assembly.
39 Unscrew the three retaining bolts, and
remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover from
under the crankshaft pulley.
40 The engine/transmission unit should now
be ready for removal from the vehicle. Check
that all of the associated connections and
fittings are disconnected from the engine and
transmission, and positioned out of the way.
41 Enlist the aid of an assistant to help
steady and guide the power unit down
through the engine compartment as it is
removed. If available, position a suitable
engine trolley or crawler board under the
engine/transmission so that when lowered,
the power unit can be withdrawn from the
front end of the vehicle, and then moved to
the area where it is to be cleaned and
dismantled. On automatic transmission
models, particular care must be taken not to
damage the transmission fluid pan (sump)
during the removal and subsequent refitting
processes.
42 Carefully lower the engine and
transmission unit, ensuring that no fittings
become snagged. Detach the hoist and
remove the power unit from under the vehicle.
43 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 7,
separate the transmission from the engine.
44 While the engine/transmission is removed,
check the mountings; renew them if they are
worn or damaged. Similarly, check the
condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses
and pipes (see Chapter 1). Components that
are normally hidden can now be checked
properly, and should be renewed if there is
any doubt at all about their condition. Where
the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission,
take the opportunity to inspect the clutch
components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components (such as the transmission oil
seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any
that are damaged or worn.
Refitting
45 Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
note the following additional points:
a) Refer to the applicable Chapters and Sections as for removal.
b) Fit new spring clips to the grooves in the
inboard end of the right- and left-hand
driveshaft joints. Lubricate the splines
with transmission oil prior to fitting. c) Renew the exhaust flange gasket when
reconnecting the exhaust. Ensure that all
wires are routed clear of the exhaust
system and, on catalytic converter
models, ensure that the heat shields are
securely and correctly fitted.
d) Ensure that all earth lead connections are
clean and securely made.
e) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque.
f) Fit a new oil filter, and refill the engine and transmission with oil, with reference to
Chapter 1.
g) Refill the cooling system with reference to Chapter 1.
h) Refit the alternator and starter motor with reference to Chapter 5A.
i) Where applicable, refit the power steering pump with reference to Chapter 10.
46 When engine and transmission refitting is
complete, refer to the procedures described
in Section 19 before restarting the engine.
5 Engine/transmission -
removal and refitting
(Zetec engines)
3
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or
bare light bulbs, in or near the work area,
and don’t work in a garage where a
natural-gas appliance (such as a clothes
dryer or water heater) is installed. If you
spill petrol on your skin, rinse it off
immediately. Have a fire extinguisher rated
for petrol fires handy, and know how to
use it.
Note: Read through the entire Section, as well
as reading the advice in Section 2, before
beginning this procedure. The engine and
transmission are removed as a unit, lowered to
the ground and removed from underneath,
then separated outside the vehicle.
Removal
1 Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply
the handbrake firmly, and slacken the nuts
securing both front roadwheels.
2 Depressurise the fuel system as described
in Chapter 4D.
3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
4 Place protective covers on the wings, then
remove the bonnet (see Chapter 11).
5 Drain the cooling system and the engine oil
(see Chapter 1).
6 Remove the air inlet components and the
complete air cleaner assembly as described in
Chapter 4D.
7 Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by
removing the filler cap, then release the fuel
feed and return quick-release couplings, and
pull the hoses off the fuel pipes. Plug or cap
all open fittings.
2D•10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
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25On automatic transmission models, clean
around the unions, then disconnect the fluid
pipes from the transmission. Plug the
openings in the transmission and the pipe
unions after removal.
26 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the front
suspension crossmember.
27 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold. Undo the nuts securing the catalytic
converter to the rear part of the exhaust
system, and remove the converter and
downpipe assembly.
28 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock braking
system, refer to Chapter 9 and release the
right-hand modulator from its mounting
bracket without disconnecting the rigid brake
pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator
securely to the bulkhead. Additionally, undo
the three bolts securing the modulator bracket.
29 Disconnect both anti-roll bar links from
their respective suspension struts, and both
track rod end ball joints from their spindle
carriers (see Chapter 10).
30 Unscrew the retaining nut and withdraw
the Torx-type clamp bolt securing the lower
suspension arm to the spindle carrier on each
side.
31 Insert a suitable lever between the right-
hand driveshaft inner joint and the
transmission housing, and prise free the
driveshaft from the transmission; be prepared
for oil spillage from the transmission case
through the vacated driveshaft aperture. As it
is being prised free, simultaneously pull the
roadwheel outwards on that side to enable the
driveshaft inboard end to separate from the
transmission. Once it is free, suspend and
support the driveshaft from the steering gear,
to prevent unnecessary strain being placed on
the driveshaft joints.
32 Insert a suitable plastic plug (or if
available, an old driveshaft joint), into the
transmission driveshaft aperture, to
immobilise the gears of the differential unit.
33 Proceed as described above in
paragraphs 31 and 32, and disconnect the
left-hand driveshaft from the transmission.
34 Remove the oil filter, referring to Chapter 1
if necessary.
35 Connect a suitable lift hoist and sling to
the engine, connecting to the lift eyes. When
securely connected, take the weight of the
engine/transmission unit so that the tension is
relieved from the mountings.
36 Unbolt the engine rear right-hand
mounting from the body (one bolt in the wheel
arch, one nut in the engine compartment),
then unbolt the engine front right-hand
mounting from the alternator mounting
bracket. Unbolt the transmission bearer from
the underbody.
37 The engine/transmission unit should now
be hanging on the hoist only, with all
components which connect it to the rest of
the vehicle disconnected or removed, and
secured well clear of the unit. Make a final
check that this is the case. 38
Lower the engine/transmission to the
ground, and withdraw it from under the
vehicle.
39 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 7,
separate the transmission from the engine.
40 While the engine/transmission is removed,
check the mountings; renew them if they are
worn or damaged. Similarly, check the
condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses
and pipes (see Chapter 1); components that
are normally hidden can now be checked
properly, and should be renewed if there is
any doubt at all about their condition. Where
the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission,
take the opportunity to overhaul the clutch
components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components (such as the transmission oil
seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any
that are damaged or worn.
Refitting
41 Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
note the following additional points:
a) Refer to the applicable Chapters and Sections as for removal.
b) Fit new spring clips to the grooves in the
inboard end of the right- and left-hand
driveshaft joints. Lubricate the splines
with transmission oil prior to fitting.
c) Renew the exhaust flange gaskets when reconnecting the exhaust. Ensure that all
wires are routed clear of the exhaust
system, and that the heat shields are
securely and correctly fitted.
d) Ensure that all earth lead connections are
clean and securely made.
e) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
f) Fit a new oil filter, and refill the engine and transmission with oil, with reference to
Chapter 1.
g) Refill the cooling system with reference to
Chapter 1.
h) Bleed the power steering system with reference to Chapter 10.
42 When engine and transmission refitting is
complete, refer to the procedures described
in Section 19 before restarting the engine.
6 Engine overhaul - preliminary information
It is much easier to dismantle and work on
the engine if it is mounted on a portable
engine stand. These stands can often be hired
from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is
mounted on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate
should be removed so that the stand bolts
can be tightened into the end of the cylinder
block/crankcase. If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it suitably supported on a sturdy, workbench or on the
floor. Be careful not to tip or drop the engine
when working without a stand.
If you intend to obtain a reconditioned
engine, all ancillaries must be removed first, to
be transferred to the replacement engine (just
as they will if you are doing a complete engine
overhaul yourself). These components include
the following:
a) Alternator/power steering pump and
mounting brackets.
b) DIS/E-DIS ignition coil unit (and mounting
bracket), distributor, HT leads and spark
plugs.
c) The thermostat and housing cover.
d) Carburettor/fuel injection system
components.
e) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.
f) Oil filter.
g) Fuel pump.
h) Engine mountings.
i) Flywheel/driveplate.
j) Water pump.
Note: When removing the external
components from the engine, pay close
attention to details that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the fitted
positions of gaskets, seals, washers, bolts and
other small items. If you are obtaining a “short” engine
(cylinder block/crankcase, crankshaft, pistons
and connecting rods all assembled), then the
cylinder head, timing chain/belt (together with
tensioner, tensioner and idler pulleys and
covers) sump and oil pump will have to be
removed also. If a complete overhaul is planned, the
engine can be dismantled in the order given
below, referring to Part A, B or C of this
Chapter unless otherwise stated.
a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.
b) Timing chain/belt, tensioner and
sprockets.
c) Cylinder head.
d) Flywheel/driveplate.
e) Sump.
f) Oil pump.
g) Pistons (with connecting rods).
h) Crankshaft.
i) Camshaft and tappets (HCS engines).
7 Cylinder head - dismantling
4
Note:New and reconditioned cylinder heads
are available from the manufacturers, and from
engine overhaul specialists. Due to the fact
that some specialist tools are required for the
dismantling and inspection procedures, and
new components may not be readily available,
it may be more practical and economical for
the home mechanic to purchase a
reconditioned head, rather than to dismantle,
inspect and recondition the original head.
1 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Part A, B or C of this Chapter (as applicable).
2D•12 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
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wrench setting, and reconnect the multi-plug.
25Refit any components disconnected for
access then refill the cooling system (see
Chapter 1).
Radiator electric cooling fan
thermostatic switch
Testing
26 Refer to the procedures contained in
Section 5.
Removal
27 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
28 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
29 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
thermostatic switch, and then unscrew the
switch from the thermostat housing or
radiator side tank, as applicable. Remove the
sealing washer.
Refitting
30 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a
new sealing washer and tighten the switch
securely. Refill the cooling system as
described in Chapter 1, then reconnect the
battery.
7 Radiator and expansion tank
- removal, inspection and
refitting
2
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Radiator
Removal (all models except Turbo)
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
3 Remove the radiator cooling fan assembly
as described in Section 5.
4 Release the hose clips and disconnect the
hoses from the radiator. Additionally, on automatic transmission models, disconnect
the transmission fluid cooling pipe
connections fitting blanking plugs to prevent
excessive fluid loss
(see illustration).
5 On Zetec engine models, disconnect the
wiring multi-plug from the cooling fan
thermostatic switch
6 Remove the radiator securing bolts and lift
the radiator out of its locating slots in the body
crossmember. Note rubber insulators fitted to
the locating lugs on the base of the radiator
(see illustrations) .
7 With the radiator removed, it can be
inspected for leaks and damage. If it needs
repair, have a radiator specialist or dealer
service department perform the work, as
special techniques are required.
8 Insects and dirt can be removed from the
radiator with a garden hose or a soft brush.
Don’t bend the cooling fins as this is done.
Removal (Turbo models)
9 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
10 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
11 Remove the radiator cooling fan assembly
as described in Section 5.
12 Release the hose clips and disconnect the
hoses from the radiator.
13 Disconnect the turbocharger coolant feed
by slackening its clamp and pulling the hose
(at the radiator rear right-hand side) off the
turbocharger’s metal pipe.
14 Remove the intercooler, as described in
Chapter 4C.
15 Remove its three retaining screws, and
withdraw the exhaust manifold heat shield. 16
Lift the radiator out of its locating slots in
the body crossmember. Note rubber
insulators fitted to the locating lugs on the
base of the radiator.
17 Clean and inspect the radiator with
reference to paragraphs 7 and 8 above.
Refitting (all models)
18 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
check the rubber insulators, and if necessary
renew them. Refill the cooling system with
reference to Chapter 1. On automatic
transmission models check, and if necessary
top-up, the automatic transmission fluid level
(Chapter 1).
Expansion tank
Removal
19 Partially drain the cooling system, so that
the coolant level drops below the expansion
tank. Refer to Chapter 1 for details.
20 Before disconnecting the coolant hoses
from the expansion tank, it is advisable to
clamp them just short of their connections to
the expansion tank, to prevent spillage of
coolant and the ingress of air when they are
detached.
21 Loosen off the coolant hose clips at the
expansion tank, and detach the hoses from it.
If they are not clamped, secure them so that
their ends are raised, to minimise coolant
spillage.
22 Remove the single bolt retaining the
expansion tank, and slide the other side of the
tank free from its retaining bracket (see
illustrations) .
3•6Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
7.22b . . . and release the expansion tank
from its retaining bracket7.22a Remove the single bolt retaining the expansion tank . . .
7.6b Rubber insulator on radiator locating lug7.6a Radiator securing bolt, insulator andwasher7.4 Automatic transmission fluid cooling
pipe connections (arrowed) at the radiator
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
If leakage is the reason for
removing the radiator, bear
in mind that minor leaks can
often be cured using a
radiator sealant with the radiator in
situ.
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4A
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
General
System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . Rear-mounted fuel tank, mechanical fuel pump, single Webercarburettor
Carburettor
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Single or twin choke, downdraught
Application:1.0 litre HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. Weber (1V) TLM
1.1 litre HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. Weber (2V) TLDM
1.3 HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . Weber (2V) TLDM
1.4 litre CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. Weber (2V) DFTM
1.6 litre CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. Weber (2V) TLD
Fuel grade
Fuel octane requirement:Engines without catalytic converter* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON unleaded or 97 RON leaded
Engines with catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON unleaded (leaded fuel must notbe used)
*Refer to dealer for latest recommendations
Chapter 4 Part A:
Fuel system - carburettor engines
Accelerator cable (CTX automatic transmission models) -
adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 4
Accelerator cable (manual transmission models) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 3
Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Accelerator pump diaphragm (Weber TLM carburettor) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Air cleaner - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Automatic choke (Weber TLD carburettor) - adjustment . . . . . . . . . 33
Automatic choke (Weber TLD carburettor) - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 34
Carburettor (Weber DFTM) - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Carburettor (Weber DFTM) - dismantling, cleaning, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 29
Carburettor (Weber DFTM) - fast-idle speed adjustment . . . . . . . . . 26
Carburettor (Weber DFTM) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Carburettor (Weber TLD) - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Carburettor (Weber TLD) - dismantling, cleaning, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 36
Carburettor (Weber TLD) - fast-idle speed adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Carburettor (Weber TLD) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Carburettor (Weber TLDM) - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 18
Carburettor (Weber TLDM) - dismantling, cleaning, inspection and
reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 24
Carburettor (Weber TLDM) - fast-idle speed adjustment . . . . . . . . . 19
Carburettor (Weber TLDM) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Carburettor (Weber TLM) - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Carburettor (Weber TLM) - dismantling, cleaning, inspection and
reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 17
Carburettor (Weber TLM) - fast-idle speed adjustment . . . . . . . . . . 13
Carburettor (Weber TLM) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Choke cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Fuel pump - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Fuel tank - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Fuel tank filler pipe - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Fuel tank ventilation tube - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
General fuel system checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Needle valve and float (Weber TLD carburettor) -
removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Needle valve and float (Weber TLDM carburettor) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Needle valve and float (Weber TLM carburettor) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Throttle kicker control solenoid (Weber TLDM carburettor) -
removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Throttle kicker unit (Weber DFTM carburettor) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Throttle kicker unit (Weber TLDM carburettor) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Underbody fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See\
Chapter 1
Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . . .See Chapter 1
4A•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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This is used to refine the calculations made by
the module, when determining the correct
amount of fuel required to achieve the ideal
air/fuel mixture ratio.A throttle position sensor is mounted on the
end of the throttle valve spindle, to provide
the EEC IV module with a constantly-varying
(analogue) voltage signal corresponding to the
throttle opening. This allows the module to
register the driver’s input when determining
the amount of fuel required by the engine. Road speed is monitored by the vehicle
speed sensor. This component is a Hall-effect
generator, mounted on the transmission’s
speedometer drive. It supplies the EEC IV
module with a series of pulses corresponding
to the vehicle’s road speed, enabling the
module to control features such as the fuel
shut-off on overrun. A manifold absolute pressure sensor
measures inlet manifold vacuum, and supplies
this information to the module for calculation
of engine load at any given throttle position. Where power steering is fitted, a pressure-
operated switch is screwed into the power
steering system’s high-pressure pipe. The
switch sends a signal to the EEC IV module to
reduce engine speed should the power
steering fluid pressure become excessively
high. Certain later engines may be fitted with a
heater in the inlet manifold. This is controlled
by the EEC IV module to ensure that, even
before the effect of the coolant heating
becomes apparent, the manifold is warmed-
up. This prevents fuel droplets condensing in
the manifold, thus improving driveability and
reducing exhaust emissions when the engine
is cold.
The oxygen sensor in the exhaust system
provides the EEC IV module with constant
feedback - “closed-loop” control - which
enables it to adjust the mixture to provide the
best possible conditions for the catalytic
converter to operate.
Precautions
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable - great care must be
taken when working on any part
of the fuel system. Do not
smoke or allow any naked flames or
uncovered light bulbs near the work area.
Note that gas powered domestic
appliances with pilot flames, such as
heaters, boilers and tumble dryers, also
present a fire hazard - bear this in mind if
you are working in an area where such
appliances are present. Always keep a
suitable fire extinguisher close to the work
area and familiarise yourself with its
operation before starting work. Wear eye
protection when working on fuel systems
and wash off any fuel spilt on bare skin
immediately with soap and water. Note
that fuel vapour is just as dangerous as
liquid fuel; a vessel that has just been
emptied of liquid fuel will still contain vapour and can be potentially explosive.
Petrol is a highly dangerous and volatile
liquid, and the precautions necessary
when handling it cannot be overstressed.
Many of the operations described in this
Chapter involve the disconnection of fuel
lines, which may cause an amount of fuel
spillage. Before commencing work, refer
to the above Warning and the information
in “Safety first” at the beginning of this
manual. When working with fuel system
components, pay particular attention to
cleanliness - dirt entering the fuel system
may cause blockages which will lead to
poor running.
Note: Residual pressure will remain in the fuel
lines long after the vehicle was last used,
when disconnecting any fuel line, it will be
necessary to depressurise the fuel system as
described in Section 2 .
2 Fuel system-
depressurisation
1
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Warning: The following
procedure will merely relieve the
pressure in the fuel system -
remember that fuel will still be present in
the system components, and take
precautions accordingly before
disconnecting any of them.
1 The fuel system referred to in this Chapter
is defined as the fuel tank and tank-mounted
fuel pump/fuel gauge sender unit, the fuel
filter, the fuel injector, fuel pressure regulator,
and the metal pipes and flexible hoses of the
fuel lines between these components. All
these contain fuel, which will be under
pressure while the engine is running and/or
while the ignition is switched on.
2 The pressure will remain for some time after
the ignition has been switched off, and must
be relieved before any of these components is
disturbed for servicing work.
3 The simplest depressurisation method is to
disconnect the fuel pump electrical supply by
removing the fuel pump fuse (No 19) and
starting the engine; allow the engine to idle
until it dies through lack of fuel pressure. Turn
the engine over once or twice on the starter to
ensure that all pressure is released, then
switch off the ignition; do not forget to refit the
fuse when work is complete.
4 Note that, once the fuel system has been
depressurised and drained (even partially), it
will take significantly longer to restart the
engine - perhaps several seconds of cranking
- before the system is refilled and pressure
restored.
3 Fuel lines and fittings -
general information
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Disconnecting and connecting
quick-release couplings
1 Quick-release couplings are employed at
many of the unions in the fuel feed and return
lines.
2 Before disconnecting any fuel system
component, relieve the residual pressure in
the system (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap.
Warning: This procedure will
merely relieve the increased
pressure necessary for the
engine to run - remember that
fuel will still be present in the system
components, and take precautions
accordingly before disconnecting any of
them.
3 Release the protruding locking lugs on each
union, by squeezing them together and
carefully pulling the coupling apart. Use rag to
soak up any spilt fuel. Where the unions are
colour-coded, the pipes cannot be confused.
Where both unions are the same colour, note
carefully which pipe is connected to which,
and ensure that they are correctly
reconnected on refitting.
4 To reconnect one of these couplings, press
them together until the locking lugs snap into
their groove. Switch the ignition on and off
five times to pressurise the system, and check
for any sign of fuel leakage around the
disturbed coupling before attempting to start
the engine.
Checking
5 Checking procedures for the fuel lines are
included in Chapter 1.
Component renewal
6 If any damaged sections are to be renewed,
use original-equipment replacement hoses or
pipes, constructed from exactly the same
material as the section being replaced. Do not
install substitutes constructed from inferior or
inappropriate material; this could cause a fuel
leak or a fire.
7 Before detaching or disconnecting any part
of the fuel system, note the routing of all
hoses and pipes, and the orientation of all
clamps and clips. Replacement sections must
be installed in exactly the same manner.
8 Before disconnecting any part of the fuel
system, be sure to relieve the fuel system
pressure (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap. Also
disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead -
see Chapter 5A, Section 1. Cover the fitting
being disconnected with a rag, to absorb any
fuel that may spray out.
Fuel system - central fuel injection engines 4B•3
4B
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