1988 OPEL VECTRA jacking

4Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
withdraw the pump from the camshaft
housing (see illustration).
5Recover the plastic insulating block.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the fuel hoses are reconnected to their
correct locations as noted during removal,
and tighten the securing bolts to the specified
torque.
7Run the engine and check for leaks on
completion. If leakage is evident, stop the
engine immediately and rectify the problem
without delay. Note that the engine may take
a longer time than usual to start when the
pump has been removed, as the pump refills
with fuel.
7Fuel tank - removal,
examination and refitting
4
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank
through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a
clean metal container that can be sealed.
3Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle, and support securely on
axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”) placed under the body side
members.
4Disconnect the exhaust system front
flexible joint. Suspend the front section of the
exhaust system with wire or string from the
underbody.
5Disconnect the rear section of the exhaust
system from its rubber mountings, and allow it
to rest on the rear suspension torsion beam. It
is advisable to support the rear section of the
exhaust at its front end, with wire or string
from the underbody, to avoid straining the
system.
6Unclip the handbrake cable from the
bracket on the left-hand fuel tank securing
strap.
7Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel
level sender unit located in the right-hand side
of the fuel tank. Make a note of the hosepositions for use when refitting. Be prepared
for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses,
to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel loss.
8Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel
level sender unit.
9Disconnect the filler and vent hoses from
the rear of the fuel tank.
10Support the weight of the fuel tank on a
jack with an interposed block of wood.
11Unscrew the securing bolts from the tank
mounting straps, then remove the straps and
lower the tank sufficiently to enable the
disconnection of the remaining vent hose.
12With the aid of an assistant, withdraw the
tank sideways from the right-hand side of the
vehicle. Note that as the tank is withdrawn,
some residual fuel may be released.
Examination
13If the tank contains sediment or water, it
may be cleaned out using two or three rinses
with clean fuel. Shake vigorously using
several changes of fuel, but before doing so,
remove the fuel level sender unit, as
described in Section 8. This procedure should
be carried out in a well-ventilated area, and it
is vital to take adequate fire precautions -
refer to the “Safety first!” Section at the
beginning of this manual for further details.
14Any repairs to the fuel tank should be
carried out by a professional. Do not under
any circumstances attempt to weld or solder a
fuel tank. Removal of all residual fuel vapour
requires several hours of specialist cleaning.
Refitting
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that all hoses are reconnected to their correct
locations as noted during removal.
16On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run
the engine and check for leaks. If leakage is
evident, stop the engine immediately and
rectify the problem without delay. Note that
the engine may take a longer time than usual
to start when the fuel tank has been removed,
as the pump refills with fuel.
8Fuel level sender unit -
removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank
through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a
clear metal container that can be sealed.
3Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
placed under the body side members.
4The sender unit is located in the right-hand
side at the fuel tank.
5Make alignment marks on the sender unit
and the fuel tank, so that the sender unit can
be refitted in its original position.6Disconnect the fuel hoses from the sender
unit. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take
adequate fire precautions. Plug the open ends
of the hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and
further fuel loss.
7Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel
level sender unit.
8To remove the sender unit, engage a flat
piece of metal as a lever between two of the
slots on the sender unit rim, and turn it anti-
clockwise.
9Withdraw the unit carefully, to avoid
bending the float arm.
10Recover the sealing ring.
Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
12Examine the condition of the sealing ring,
and renew if necessary.
13Ensure that the marks made on the
sender unit and fuel tank before removal are
aligned.
14Ensure that the hoses are reconnected to
their correct locations as noted during
removal.
15On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run
the engine and check for leaks. Also check
that the fuel gauge reads correctly. If leakage
is evident, stop the engine immediately and
rectify the problem without delay. Note that
the engine may take a longer time than usual
to start when the sender unit has been
removed, as the fuel pump refills with fuel.
9Fuel vapour separator (1.6
and 1.8 litre models) -
removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1The fuel vapour separator is located on a
bracket attached to the side of the
carburettor.
2Note the locations of the three fuel hoses,
labelling them if necessary for use when
refitting, then disconnect the hoses from the
vapour separator. Be prepared for fuel
spillage, and take adequate fire precautions.
Plug the open ends of the hoses, to prevent
dirt ingress and further fuel spillage.
3Remove the two securing screws, and lift
the vapour separator from its bracket.
4Check the body of the separator for cracks
or leaks before refitting, and renew if
necessary.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the three fuel hoses are connected to
their correct locations as noted during
removal.
6Run the engine and check the hose
connections for leaks on completion. If
leakage is evident, stop the engine
immediately and rectify the problem without
delay.
4A•4Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models
6.4 Withdrawing the fuel pump and plastic
insulating block - 1.6 litre model

8Electric door mirror switch -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Prise the plastic surround from the door
interior handle.
3Free the trim panel from the top edge of the
door by releasing the securing clips. This can
be done using a screwdriver, but it is
preferable to use a forked tool, to minimise
the possibility of damage to the trim panel and
the clips.
4Note the position of the mirror switch wiring
connector in the bracket at the top of the
door, then separate the two halves of the
connector.
5Prise the switch from the door trim panel,
and feed the wiring through the panel.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the wiring is correctly routed, so as not to
foul the door interior handle mechanism.
9Sunroof operating switch -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Prise the courtesy lamp from the roof trim
panel, and disconnect the wiring.
3Remove the two trim panel securing
screws, and withdraw the trim panel from the
roof, disconnecting the wiring from the
sunroof operating switch.
4Release the securing clips, then pull the
switch from the rear face of the trim panel.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
10Courtesy lamp switch -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Open the door and remove the switch
securing screw.
3Withdraw the switch from the door pillar,
and pull the wiring out sufficiently to prevent it
from springing back into the pillar.4Disconnect the wiring and remove the
switch.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
11Luggage compartment lamp
switch - removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Open the boot lid or tailgate, as applicable,
and remove the switch securing screw.
3Withdraw the switch from the body panel,
and pull the wiring out sufficiently to prevent it
from springing back into the body.
4Disconnect the wiring and remove the
switch.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
12Brake lamp switch - removal
and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the lower trim panel from the
driver’s footwell.
3Disconnect the wiring plug from the brake
lamp switch, then twist the switch
anti-clockwise and remove it from its bracket.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
13Handbrake “on” warning
lamp switch - removal and
refitting
3
For access to the switch, the handbrake
lever must be removed. Removal and refitting
of the switch is described as part of the
handbrake lever removal and refitting
procedure, in Chapter 9.
14Oil pressure warning lamp
switch - removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2The switch is screwed into the oil pump, on
the inlet manifold side of the engine. On 1.4
and 1.6 litre (except C16 NZ2), models the
switch projects at right-angles to the
crankshaft axis, while on C16 NZ2, 1.8 and
2.0 litre models it is parallel to the crankshaft
(see illustration).
3In most cases the switch can be reached
quite easily from above. However, on some
models access will be easier if the front of the
vehicle is jacked up and supported on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
(ensure that the handbrake is securely
applied) and the front right-hand roadwheel is
removed.
4Disconnect the switch wire and use a
spanner to unscrew the switch (see
illustration). As you withdraw the switch,
swiftly plug the hole in the oil pump to
minimise the loss of oil and to prevent the
entry of dirt.
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; tighten the switch securely but do
not overtighten it, reconnect its wire, then
check and if necessary top-up the oil level, as
described in Chapter 1. Wash off any spilt oil
and check for leaks when the engine is
restarted.
15Cigarette lighter - removal
and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Slide the ashtray/cigarette lighter assembly
from the facia, then disconnect the wiring and
slide the illumination bulb from the cigarette
lighter.
Body electrical systems 12•5
14.4 Unscrewing the oil pressure warning
lamp switch -
SOHC model (engine removed)14.2 Oil pressure warning lamp switch
(arrowed) viewed from underneath vehicle
- SOHC model
12
Tape the wiring to the door
pillar, to prevent if falling
back into the door pillar.
Alternatively, tie a piece of
string to the wiring to retrieve it.

Brake fluid level sensor
14The procedure is as described for the
coolant level sensor in paragraphs 7 to 10
inclusive.
Engine oil level sensor
Removal
15Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
16On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, as described in Chapter 11.
17Disconnect the sensor wiring plug.
18Unscrew the three or four sensor securing
screws, as applicable, and withdraw the
sensor, manipulating the float through the hole
in the sump (see illustration). Recover the
sealing ring. Be prepared for some oil spillage.
19Examine the condition of the sealing ring,
and renew if necessary.
Refitting
20Refitting is a reversal of removal. On
completion, check, and if necessary top-up,
the engine oil level.
Bulb failure sensor
Removal
21The bulb failure sensor is mounted behind
the fuse/relay panel in the facia.
22Release the retaining clips from the lower
end of the fuse/relay panel, and tilt it forwards.23Reach up behind the fuse/relay panel, and
pull the sensor from its socket.
Refitting
24Refitting is a reversal of removal.
22Horn(s) - removal and refitting
2
1On models with a single horn, the horn is
located in front of the radiator. On models
with twin horns, the horns are located beneath
the washer fluid reservoir, at the left-hand end
of the front bumper.
Single horn
Removal
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the radiator grille panel, with
reference to Chapter 11.
4Disconnect the wiring from the rear of the
horn.
5Reach up behind the mounting bracket, and
unscrew the single nut securing the horn to the
bracket (see illustration). Withdraw the horn.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Twin horns
Removal
7Disconnect the battery negative lead.
8Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
9Remove the securing screws, and withdraw
the plastic cover (where fitted) from the
bumper/front wing to expose the horns.
10Remove the bolt securing the horn
mounting bracket to the bracket below the
washer fluid reservoir (see illustration).
11Withdraw the horns and disconnect the
wiring.
12If desired, the horns can be unbolted from
the bracket.
Refitting
13Refitting is a reversal of removal.
23Interior lamps - removal and
refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, prise the
lamp from its location and disconnect the
wiring (see illustration).
Refitting
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
24Interior lamp bulbs - renewal
1
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Courtesy lamp
Note: Some later models are fitted with
courtesy lamps for the rear seat passengers,
as well as front.
Removal
2Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, prise the
lamp from its location and disconnect the
wiring.
3On models fitted with a courtesy lamp with
integral map reading lamps, the lens must be
levered from the housing for access to the
bulbs.
12•8Body electrical systems
21.18 Engine oil level sensor - DOHC model
22.10 Horn mounting bracket securing
bolt (arrowed) - twin horned model23.2 Withdrawing the courtesy lamp
22.5 Horn viewed from behind with radiator removed - single
horned model

29Front indicator lamp unit -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the single indicator lamp unit
securing screw, which is accessible through
the hole in the upper body panel (see
illustration).
3Pull the lamp unit forwards to release it
from the body, then disconnect the wiring
plug (see illustration).
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
30Side repeater lamp -removal
and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the wheel arch liner, as described
in Chapter 11.
3Working in the engine compartment,
disconnect the wiring plug, and detach the
earth lead from the body panel.
4Working under the wheel arch, depress the
retaining tabs and manipulate the lamp
through the outside of the wing, pulling the
wiring and the grommet from the inner wing
panel.
5The lens can be removed from the lamp by
twisting it to release the retaining clips.
6Check the condition of the rubber sealing
ring, and renew if necessary.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
31Front foglamp - removal,
refitting and adjustment
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Removing (if necessary) the radiator grille
panel, as described in Chapter 11, disconnect
the appropriate foglamp wiring plug.
3Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
4If removing the driver’s side foglamp,
remove the securing screws and withdraw the
plastic cover from the bumper/front wing to
expose the lamp mountings.
5Unscrew the three securing bolts and
withdraw the lamp and wiring, the two bottom
bolts are obvious, but the third is well hidden
at the top of the lamp.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on
completion check the foglamp adjustment.
Adjustment
7The vertical aim of the foglamps can be
adjusted by turning the adjuster screw at the
rear of the lamp in the required direction. It will
be necessary to remove the plastic cover
(driver’s side only) from the bumper/front wing
to expose the adjuster screw (see
illustration).
32Rear lamp unit - removal and
refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Working in the luggage compartment,
remove the cover from the rear of the lamp.
3Release the top and bottom retaining clips,
and pull the bulbholder from the lamp.
Disconnect the wiring plug.
4Remove the securing screws, and withdraw
the lamp unit from outside the vehicle.
5Note that the lens cannot be renewed
separately, and if damaged, the complete
lamp unit must be renewed.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal.
33Number plate lamp -removal
and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, carefully
prise the lamp surround from the bumper.
3Pull the lamp from the bumper, and
disconnect the wiring.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
34Exterior lamp bulbs - renewal
1
Note: The glass envelopes of the headlamp
and foglamp bulbs must not be touched with
the fingers. If the glass is accidentally
touched, it should be washed with methylated
spirits and dried with a soft cloth. Failure to
observe this procedure may result in
premature bulb failure
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Headlamps
Removal
2Working in the engine compartment,
release the retaining clip, and remove the
cover from the rear of the headlamp (see
illustration).
Body electrical systems 12•11
31.7 Foglamp aim adjustment screw
(arrowed)34.2 Removing the cover from the rear of
the headlamp
29.3 Disconnecting the front indicator
lamp unit wiring plug29.2 Unscrewing the front indicator lamp
unit securing screw
12

3Pull the wiring plug from the base of the bulb,
then release the spring clip, grasp the bulb by
its contacts and carefully withdraw it (see
illustrations). Do not touch the bulb glass.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Sidelamps
Removal
5Working in the engine compartment,
release the retaining clip, and remove the
cover from the rear of the headlamp.
6Pull the wiring plug from the bulbholder,
then pull the bulbholder from the headlamp
(see illustration).
7The bulb is a push fit in the bulbholder (see
illustration).
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Front indicator lamp
Removal
9Working in the engine compartment,
disconnect the wiring plug from the
bulbholder.
10Twist the bulbholder anti-clockwise, and
pull it from the lamp unit (see illustration).
11The bulb is a bayonet fit in the bulbholder
(see illustration).
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Front indicator side repeater
lamp
Removal
13Twist the lamp lens anti-clockwise, and
pull it from the lamp.
14The bulb is a push fit in the lamp (see
illustration).
Refitting
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the rubber sealing ring is correctly
seated between the lens and the body panel.
Front foglamp
Removal
16To improve access, apply the handbrake,
jack up the front of the vehicle, and support
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and
Vehicle Support”) positioned under the body
side members.
17Remove the securing screws, and
withdraw the plastic cover (driver’s side only)
from the bumper/front wing to expose the
foglamp.
18Remove the security screw, and withdraw
the cover from the base of the lamp (see
illustration).
19Release the spring clip, using a
screwdriver if necessary, then grasp the bulb
by its contacts and carefully withdraw it. Do
not touch the bulb glass (see illustration).
20Pull the wiring plug from the base of the
bulb.
Refitting
21Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Rear lamp unit
Removal
22Working in the luggage compartment,
remove the cover from the rear of the lamp.
23Release the top and bottom retaining
clips, and pull the bulbholder from the lamp,
12•12Body electrical systems
34.3A Release the spring clip . . .34.6 Pull the sidelamp bulbholder from the
headlamp . . .
34.18 Removing a front foglamp cover
securing screw
34.10 Withdraw the front indicator lamp
bulbholder (lamp removed) . . .34.07 . . . then pull the bulb from the
bulbholder
34.14 Removing a front indicator side
repeater lamp bulb34.11 . . . then remove the bulb
34.3B . . . and withdraw the headlamp bulb

41Washer fluid reservoir -
removal and refitting
2
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Models without headlamp wash
Removal
2Disconnect the wiring from the washer
pump.
3Disconnect the washer fluid hose from the
pump. Be prepared for fluid spillage.
4Remove the screw(s) securing the reservoir
to the body, and withdraw the reservoir.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Models with headlamp wash
Removal
6On models with headlamp wash, the
reservoir is in two sections, the upper section,
which can be removed from the engine
compartment, and the lower section, which
must be removed from under the wheel arch.
7Disconnect the wiring from the headlamp
wash non-return valve in the top of the
reservoir.
8Disconnect the washer fluid hoses from the
non-return valve. Be prepared for fluid spillage.
9Remove the screw securing the upper
section of the reservoir to the wing panel.
10Loosen the plastic collar securing the
upper section of the reservoir to the lower
section, then withdraw the upper section of
the reservoir from the engine compartment.
11To remove the lower section of the
reservoir, continue as follows.
12Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle, and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
13Remove the securing screws, and
withdraw the plastic cover from thebumper/front wing to expose the lower
section of the reservoir.
14Remove the horns, (Section 22).
15Remove the wheel arch liner, (Chapter 11).
16Disconnect the wiring and the fluid hoses
from the washer pump. Be prepared for fluid
spillage.
17Unscrew the bolts securing the
horn/reservoir support bracket and the
reservoir to the body, then withdraw the
bracket and the reservoir (see illustration).
Refitting
18Refitting is a reversal of removal.
42Washer pump -removal and
refitting
2
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Models without headlamp wash
Removal
2Disconnect the wiring and the fluid hose
from the pump. Be prepared for fluid spillage.
3Pull the pump from the reservoir, being
prepared for fluid spillage if the reservoir still
contains fluid.
4Examine the condition of the sealing
grommet, and renew if necessary, and clean the
gauze filter at the end of the pump pick-up tube.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Models with headlamp wash
6Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support on axle stands
positioned under the body side members.
7Remove the securing screws, and withdraw
the plastic cover from the bumper/front wing
to expose the lower section of the fluid
reservoir.
8Remove the wheel arch liner, (Chapter 11).
9Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 5
inclusive.
43Headlamp washer fluid
non-return valve -removal
and refitting
2
Removal
1The valve is located on a bracket attached
to the upper section of the washer fluid
reservoir (see illustration).
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Disconnect the wiring and the fluid hoses
from the valve. Be prepared for fluid spillage.
4Remove the screw securing the valve
bracket to the reservoir, and withdraw the
valve.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
44Electric window components
- removal and refitting
3
Note: Whenever any of the electric window
components are removed, after refitting the
components, the electric window controls
must be programmed, as described in
Section 45.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Rear door-mounted switches
Removal
2Prise the plastic surround from the door
interior handle.
3Carefully prise the switch from its location,
and disconnect the wiring plug.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the wiring is routed so that it does
not foul the electric window or lock operating
components.
Body electrical systems 12•15
43.1 Headlamp washer fluid non-return valve (arrowed)41.17 Horn/washer fluid reservoir support bracket securing bolt
(arrowed) - model with headlamp wash
12

2When the starter switch is operated, current
flows from the battery to the solenoid that is
mounted on the starter body. The plunger in
the solenoid moves inwards, so causing a
centrally pivoted lever to push the drive pinion
into mesh with the starter ring gear. When the
solenoid plunger reaches the end of its travel,
it closes an internal contact and full starting
current flows to the starter field coils. The
armature is then able to rotate the crankshaft,
so starting the engine.
3A special freewheel clutch is fitted to the
starter driven pinion, so that when the engine
fires and starts to operate on its own it does
not drive the starter motor.
4When the starter switch is released, the
solenoid is de-energised, and a spring moves
the plunger back to its rest position. This
operates the pivoted lever to the withdraw the
drive pinion from engagement with the starter
ring.
13Starter motor - testing
3
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding
Testing
1If the starter motor fails to turn the engine
when the switch is operated, and engine
seizure is not the problem, there are several
other possible reasons:
a)The battery is faulty
b)The electrical connections between the
switch, solenoid battery and starter motor
are somewhere failing to pass the
necessary current from the battery
through the starter to earth
c)The solenoid switch is faulty
d)The starter motor is mechanically or
electrically defective
e)The starter motor pinion and/or flywheel
ring gear is badly worn, and in need of
replacement
2To check the battery, switch on the
headlamps. If they dim after a few seconds,
then the battery is in a discharged state. If the
lamps glow brightly, operate the starter switch
and see what happens to the lamps. If theydim, then power is reaching the motor, but
failing to turn it. If the starter turns slowly, go
on to the next check.
3If, when the starter switch is operated, the
lamps stay bright, then insufficient power is
reaching the motor. Disconnect the battery
and the starter/solenoid power connections,
and the engine earth strap, then thoroughly
clean them and refit them. Smear petroleum
jelly around the battery connections to
prevent corrosion. Corroded connections are
the most frequent cause of electrical system
malfunctions.
4If the preceding checks and cleaning tasks
have been carried out without success, a
clicking noise will probably have been heard
each time the starter switch was operated.
This indicates that the solenoid switch was
operating, but it does not necessarily follow
that the main contacts were closing properly
(if no clicking has been heard from the
solenoid, it is certainly defective). The
solenoid can be checked by connecting a
voltmeter across the main cable connection
on the solenoid and earth. When the switch is
operated, these should be a reading on the
voltmeter. If there is no reading, the solenoid
unit is faulty, and should be renewed.
5If the starter motor operates, but does not
turn the engine, then it is likely that the starter
pinion and/or flywheel ring gear are badly
worn. If this is the case, the starter motor will
normally be noisy in operation.
6Finally, if it is established that the solenoid
is not faulty, and 12 volts are reaching the
starter, then the motor itself is faulty, and
should be removed for inspection.
14Starter motor - removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.3On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, as described in Chapter 11.
4Note the wiring connections on the
solenoid, then disconnect them (see
illustration).
5Where applicable, unscrew the bolt
securing the exhaust bracket and the starter
motor mounting bracket to the cylinder block
(see illustration).
6Unscrew the two starter motor mounting
bolts. Note that the top bolt on some models
are fitted from the transmission side, and
secures a wiring harness bracket (see
illustration).
7Withdraw the starter motor.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, but where
applicable, ensure that the wiring harness
bracket is in place on the top mounting bolt,
and tighten all bolts to the specified torque.
15Starter motor - overhaul
5
If the starter motor is thought to be suspect,
it should be removed from the vehicle and
taken to an auto-electrician for testing. Most
auto-electricians will be able to supply and fit
brushes at a reasonable cost. However, check
on the cost of repairs before continuing as it
may prove more economical to obtain a new
or exchange motor.
16Ignition coil - removal, testing
and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding.
An ohmmeter will be required to test the coil
Removal
1The ignition coil is either a cylindrical metal
canister or a moulded plastic unit. It is
clamped or bolted to the left-hand inner wing
panel, near the suspension strut top mounting
(under the power steering fluid reservoir, on
Engine electrical systems 5•9
14.6 Starter motor securing bolts
(arrowed) - 1.6 litre model
(engine removed)14.5 Starter motor mounting
bracket/exhaust bracket securing bolt
(arrowed) - 1.6 litre model14.4 Starter motor and solenoid viewed
from underneath the vehicle. Solenoid
wiring connections arrowed
5

3Lift up the edge of the windscreen cowl
panel for access to the sensor.
4Disconnect the sensor wiring plug, and the
vacuum pipe.
5Pull the pressure sensor upwards to release
it from its bracket, and withdraw it from the
vehicle.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal. However,
on Multec models no fuel vapour trap is fitted.
It is therefore essential that the sensor
vacuum hose is routed so that it falls steadily
from the sensor to the throttle body. This
precaution prevents any fuel droplets being
trapped in the sensor or hose, and allows
them to drain into the inlet port.
Oil temperature sensor
Removal
7The sensor is screwed into the inlet
manifold side of the cylinder block, next to the
starter motor’s right-hand end.
8The sensor can be reached quite easily
from above, but if it is to be removed from
beneath, ensure that the handbrake is
applied, and that the vehicle is securely
supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and
Vehicle Support”).
9Disconnect the battery negative lead.
10Disconnect the sensor wiring plug.
11Using a spanner, unscrew the sensor and
remove it (see illustration). Be prepared for
oil spillage, and plug the hole in the cylinder
block to prevent dirt ingress and further oil
loss.
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Crankshaft speed/position
sensor (1.8 litre models)
Removal
13The sensor is located on the exhaust
manifold side of the engine, in the lower
cylinder block behind the oil pump.
14Disconnect the battery negative lead.
15Release the relevant outer timing belt
cover securing clips, and unclip the sensor
wiring from the timing belt cover.
16Disconnect the sensor wiring connector,
noting its location.
17Unscrew the securing bolt, and withdraw
the sensor from the cylinder block (see
illustration).
18Examine the sensor sealing ring, and
renew if necessary (see illustration).
Refitting
19Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the sensor wiring is correctly located on
the timing belt cover, and that the wiring
connector is correctly located.
25Motronic system
components - removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding.
Procedures for removal and refitting of the
ignition system components and electronic
module are given elsewhere in the relevant
Sections of this Chapter. Removal and
refitting procedures for all fuel injection
system components are given in Chapter 4B
Coolant temperature sensor
Removal
1On all except 20 XEJ models, the sensor is
located in the end of the thermostat housing,
on the inlet manifold side of the engine.
2On 20 XEJ models, the sensor is located in
the thermostat housing, on the exhaust
manifold side of the engine.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4Partially drain the cooling system, as
described in Chapter 3. 5Disconnect the sensor wiring plug (see
illustration).
6Using a spanner, unscrew the sensor and
withdraw it from the thermostat housing.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
8On completion, top-up the cooling system,
as described in Chapter 3.
Knock sensor (DOHC models)
Removal
9The sensor is located at the lower inlet
manifold side of the cylinder block, below the
idle speed adjuster, and is only accessible
from below the vehicle.
10Disconnect the battery negative lead.
11Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle, and support securely on
axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”) placed under the body side
members.
12Remove the engine undershield, as
described in Chapter 11.
13Disconnect the sensor wiring plug.
14Unscrew the securing bolt, and withdraw
the sensor from the cylinder block.
Refitting
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, but note
that the mating faces of the sensor and
cylinder block must be cleaned thoroughly
before fitting the sensor.
Engine electrical systems 5•15
24.17 Unscrewing the crankshaft
speed/position sensor securing bolt -
1.8 litre model
25.5 Disconnecting the coolant
temperature sensor wiring plug - 2.0 litre
model (alternator removed)24.18 Examine the crankshaft
speed/position sensor sealing ring -
1.8 litre model
24.11 Unscrewing the MSTS-i oil
temperature sensor - 1.6 litre model
(engine removed)24.1 MSTS-i manifold pressure sensor -
1.6 litre model
5