1988 OPEL VECTRA maintenance

Distributor
Direction of rotor arm rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Anti-clockwise (viewed from cap)
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end of engine)
Dwell angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Automatically controlled by electronic module (not adjustable)
Ignition timing
14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5°BTDC
16 SV, X 16 SZ, C 16 NZ, C 16 NZ2 and C 18 NZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10°BTDC *
18 SV and 2.0 litres models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 12°BTDC *
* Ignition timing electronically controlled no adjustment possible
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1 Specifications
Torque wrench settingNmlbf ft
Alternator mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Camshaft phase sensor disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
Camshaft phase sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1511
‘Compact’ series alternator lower mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3526
‘Compact’ series alternator upper mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2015
DIS module . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75
Inductive pulse pick-up to block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Starter motor mounting bracket-to-cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Starter motor mounting:
1.4 and 1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
1.8 and 2.0 litre models:
Engine side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4533
Transmission side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7555
1Electrical system - general
1The electrical system is of the 12 volt
negative earth type, and consists of a 12 volt
battery, alternator with integral voltage
regulator, starter motor, and related electrical
accessories, components and wiring.
2The battery is of the maintenance-free
“sealed for life” type, and is charged by an
alternator, which is belt-driven from the
crankshaft pulley. The starter motor is of the
pre-engaged type, incorporating an integral
solenoid. On starting, the solenoid moves the
drive pinion into engagement with the flywheel
ring gear before the starter motor is
energised. Once the engine has started, a
one-way clutch prevents the motor armature
being driven by the engine until the pinion
disengages from the flywheel.
3It is necessary to take extra care when
working on the electrical system, to avoid
damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes
and transistors), and to avoid the risk of
personal injury. Along with the precautions
given in the “Safety first!” Section at the
beginning of this manual, take note of the
following points when working on the system.4Always remove rings, watches, etc. before
working on the electrical system. Even with
the battery disconnected, discharge could
occur if a component live terminal is earthed
through a metal object. This could cause a
shock or nasty burn.
5Do not reverse the battery connections.
Components such as the alternator, or any
other component having semi-conductor
circuitry, could be irreparably damaged.
6If the engine is being started using jump
leads and a slave battery, connect the
batteries positive to positive and negative to
negative. This also applies when connecting a
battery charger.
7Never disconnect the battery terminals, or
alternator multi-plug connector, when the
engine is running.
8The battery leads and alternator wiring
must be disconnected before carrying out any
electric welding on the vehicle.
9Never use an ohmmeter of the type
incorporating a hand-cranked generator for
circuit or continuity testing.
2Ignition system - general
1The ignition system is responsible for
igniting the air/fuel mixture in each cylinder at
the correct moment, in relation to engine
speed and load. A number of different types
of ignition systems are fitted to models within
the range. Ranging from a basic breakerless
electronic system, to a fully integrated engine
management system controlling both ignition
and fuel injection systems. Each system isdescribed in further detail later in this Section.
2The ignition system is based on feeding low
tension voltage from the battery to the coil,
where it is converted to high tension voltage.
The high tension voltage is powerful enough
to jump the spark plug gap in the cylinders
many times a second under high compression
pressures, providing that the system is in
good condition. The low tension (or primary)
circuit consists of the battery, the lead to the
ignition switch. The lead from the ignition
switch to the low tension coil windings and
the supply terminal on the electronic module.
The lead from the low tension coil windings to
the control terminal on the electronic module.
The high tension (or secondary) circuit
consists of the high tension coil windings, the
HT (high tension) lead from the coil to the
distributor cap, the rotor arm, the HT leads to
the spark plugs, and the spark plugs.
3The system functions in the following
manner. Current flowing through the low
tension coil windings produces a magnetic
field around the high tension windings. As the
engine rotates, a sensor produces an
electrical impulse that is amplified in the
electronic module and used to switch off the
low tension circuit.
4The subsequent collapse of the magnetic
field over the high tension windings produces
a high tension voltage, which is then fed to the
relevant spark plug through the distributor
cap and rotor arm. The low tension circuit is
automatically switched on again by the
electronic module, to allow the magnetic field
to build up again before the firing of the next
spark plug. The ignition is advanced and
retarded automatically, to ensure that the
spark occurs at the correct instant with the
engine speed and load.
5•2Engine electrical systems
Caution: Before carrying out
any work on the vehicle
electrical system, read through
the precautions given in the
“Safety first!” Section at the beginning of
this manual, and in Section 3 of this
Chapter.

HEI (High Energy Ignition)
system
5This comprises of a breakerless distributor
and an electronic switching/amplifier module
along with the coil and spark plugs.
6The electrical impulse that is required to
switch off the low tension circuit is generated
by a magnetic trigger coil in the distributor. A
trigger wheel rotates within a magnetic stator,
the magnetic field being provided by a
permanent magnet. The magnetic field across
the two poles (stator arm and trigger wheel) is
dependent on the air gap between the two
poles. When the air gap is at its minimum, the
trigger wheel arm is directly opposite the
stator arm, and this is the trigger point. As the
magnetic flux between the stator arm and
trigger wheel varies, a voltage is induced in the
trigger coil mounted below the trigger wheel.
This voltage is sensed and then amplified by
the electronic module, and used to switch off
the low tension circuit. There is one trigger arm
and one stator arm for each cylinder.
7The ignition advance is a function of the
distributor, and is controlled both
mechanically and by a vacuum-operated
system. The mechanical governor mechanism
consists of two weights that move out from
the distributor shaft due to centrifugal force as
the engine speed rises. As the weights move
outwards, they rotate the trigger wheel
relative to the distributor shaft and so
advance the spark. The weights are held in
position by two light springs, and it is the
tension of the springs that is largely
responsible for correct spark advancement.
8The vacuum control consists of a
diaphragm, one side of which is connected by
way of a small-bore hose to the carburettor,
and the other side to the distributor.
Depression in the inlet manifold and
carburettor, which varies with engine speed
and throttle position, causes the diaphragm to
move, so moving the baseplate and
advancing or retarding the spark. A fine
degree of control is achieved by a spring in
the diaphragm assembly.
MSTS-i (Microprocessor-
controlled Spark Timing System)
9This system comprises a “Hall-effect”
distributor (or a crankshaft speed/position
sensor on X 16 SZ models), a manifold pressure
sensor, an oil temperature sensor, and a
module, along with the coil and spark plugs.
10On 1.6 litre models, the electrical impulse
that is required to switch off the low tension
circuit is generated by a sensor in the
distributor. A trigger vane rotates in the gap
between a permanent magnet and the sensor.
The trigger vane has four cut-outs, one for
each cylinder. When one of the trigger vane
cut-outs is in line with the sensor, magnetic
flux can pass between the magnet and the
sensor. When a trigger vane segment is in line
with the sensor, the magnetic flux is diverted
through the trigger vane away from thesensor. The sensor senses the change in
magnetic flux, and sends an impulse to the
MSTS-i module, which switches off the low
tension circuit.
11On 1.8 litre models, the electrical impulse
that is required to switch off the low tension
circuit is generated by a crankshaft
speed/position sensor, which is activated by a
toothed wheel on the crankshaft. The toothed
wheel has 35 equally spaced teeth, with a gap
in the 36th position. The gap is used by the
sensor to determine the crankshaft position
relative to TDC (top dead centre) of No 1 piston.
12Engine load information is supplied to the
MSTS-i module by a pressure sensor, which
is connected to the carburettor by a vacuum
pipe. Additional information is supplied by an
oil temperature sensor. The module selects
the optimum ignition advance setting based
on the information received from the sensors.
The degree of advance can thus be constantly
varied to suit the prevailing engine conditions.
Multec, with MSTS-i
13The ignition system is fully electronic in
operation and incorporates the Electronic
Control Unit (ECU) mounted in the driver’s
footwell. A distributor (driven off the camshaft
left-hand end and incorporating the amplifier
module) as well as the octane coding plug,
the spark plugs, HT leads, ignition HT coil and
associated wiring.
14The ECU controls both the ignition system
and the fuel injection system, integrating the
two in a complete engine management
system. Refer to Chapters 4B and 4C for
further information that is not detailed here.
15For ignition the ECU receives information
in the form of electrical impulses or signals
from the distributor (giving it the engine speed
and crankshaft position), from the coolant
temperature sensor (giving it the engine
temperature) and from the manifold absolute
pressure sensor (giving it the load on the
engine). In addition, the ECU receives input
from the octane coding plug (to provide
ignition timing appropriate to the grade of fuel
used) and from, where fitted, the automatic
transmission control unit (to smooth gear
changing by retarding the ignition as changes
are made).
16All these signals are compared by the
ECU with set values pre-programmed
(mapped) into its memory. Considering this
information, the ECU selects the ignition
timing appropriate to those values and
controls the ignition HT coil by way of the
amplifier module accordingly.
17The system is so sensitive that, at idle
speed, the ignition timing may be constantly
changing; this should be remembered if trying
to check the ignition timing.
18The system fitted to C18 NZ models, is
similar to that described above, except that
the amplifier module is separate. The ECU
determines engine speed and crankshaft
position using a sensor mounted in the
right-hand front end of the engine’s cylinderblock; this registers with a 58-toothed disc
mounted on the crankshaft so that the gap left
by the missing two teeth provides a reference
point, so enabling the ECU to recognise TDC.
19Note that this simplifies the distributor’s
function, which is merely to distribute the HT
pulse to the appropriate spark plug; it has no
effect whatsoever on the ignition timing.
DIS (Direct Ignition System)
20On all X16 SZ engines, and on C20 XE
(DOHC) engines from 1993-on, a DIS (Direct
Ignition System) module is used in place of
the distributor and coil. On the X16 SZ engine
the DIS module is attached to the camshaft
housing in the position normally occupied by
the distributor. On the C20 XE engine, a
camshaft phase sensor is attached to the
cylinder head at the non-driven end of the
exhaust camshaft, in the position normally
occupied by the distributor. The DIS module
is attached, by a bracket, to the cylinder head
at the non-driven end of the inlet camshaft.
21The DIS module consists of two ignition
coils and an electronic control module housed
in a cast casing. Each ignition coil supplies
two spark plugs with HT voltage. One spark is
provided in a cylinder with its piston on the
compression stroke, and one spark is
provided to a cylinder with its piston on the
exhaust stroke. This means that a “wasted
spark” is supplied to one cylinder during each
ignition cycle, but this has no detrimental
effect. This system has the advantage that
there are no moving parts (therefore there is
no wear), and the system is largely
maintenance-free.
Motronic M4.1 and M1.5
22This system controls both the ignition and
the fuel injection systems.
23The Motronic module receives information
from a crankshaft speed/position sensor, an
engine coolant temperature sensor mounted
in the thermostat housing. A throttle position
sensor, an airflow meter, and on models fitted
with a catalytic converter, an oxygen sensor
mounted in the exhaust system (Chapter 4C).
24The module provides outputs to control
the fuel pump, fuel injectors, idle speed and
ignition circuit. Using the inputs from the
various sensors, the module computes the
optimum ignition advance, and fuel injector
pulse duration, to suit the prevailing engine
conditions. This system gives very accurate
control of the engine under all conditions,
improving fuel consumption and driveability,
and reducing exhaust gas emissions.
25Further details of the fuel injection system
components are given in Chapter 4B.
Motronic M2.5 and M2.8
26The system is similar to that described for
SOHC models, with the following differences.
27Along with the crankshaft speed/position
sensor, a “Hall-effect” distributor is used
(similar to that described in this Section, with
the MSTS-i system).
Engine electrical systems 5•3
5

5If the engine turns over at normal speed but
will not start, check the HT circuit by
connecting a timing light and turning the
engine over on the starter motor. If the light
flashes, voltage is reaching the spark plugs,
so these should be checked first. If the light
does not flash, check the HT leads
themselves followed by the distributor cap,
carbon brush and rotor arm.
6If there is a spark, check the fuel system for
faults as far as possible (Chapters 4A or 4B).
7If there is still no spark, check the voltage at
the ignition coil “+” or “15” terminal; it should
be the same as the battery voltage (i.e., at
least 11.7 volts). If the voltage at the coil is
more than 1 volt less than that at the battery,
check the connections back through the
ignition switch to the battery and its earth until
the fault is found. Note, however, that the
ECU controls the coil’s feed; do not attempt
to “test” the ECU with anything other than the
correct test equipment, which will be available
only to a Vauxhall dealer. If any of the wires
are to be checked which lead to the ECU,
always first unplug the relevant connector
from the ECU so that there is no risk of the
ECU being damaged by the application of
incorrect voltages from test equipment.
8If the feed to the ignition coil is sound,
check the coil’s primary and secondary
windings (refer to Section 16). Renew the coil
if faulty, but check the condition of the LT
connections themselves before doing so, to
ensure that the fault is not due to dirty or
poorly fastened connectors.
9If the ignition coil is in good condition, the
fault may be within the amplifier module or the
distributor on the C16 NZ and C16 NZ2
engines, or the amplifier or the crankshaft
speed/position sensor on the C18 NZ engine.
A quick check of these components can be
made by connecting a low-wattage bulb
across the ignition coil’s (disconnected) LT
terminals. If the bulb flickers or flashes when
the engine is turned over, the amplifier and
distributor (C16 NZ and C16 NZ2 engines), or
amplifier and crankshaft speed/position
sensor (C18 NZ engine), are sound.
10If this is the case, the entire LT circuit is in
good condition; the fault, if it lies in the
ignition system, must be in the HT circuit
components. These should be checked
carefully, as outlined above.
11If the indicator or bulb does not flash, the
fault is in either the amplifier or the distributor
(C16 NZ and C16 NZ2 engines), or the
amplifier or crankshaft speed/position sensor
(C18 NZ engine). Owners should note,
however, that by far the commonest cause of
“failure” of either of these is a poor
connection, either between the components
themselves or in the LT circuit wiring
connections. If such a fault is suspected, the
vehicle must be taken to a suitably equipped
Vauxhall dealer for testing; no information is
available to eliminate these components by
other means.12An irregular misfire suggests either a
loose connection or intermittent fault on the
primary circuit, or a HT fault on the coil side of
the rotor arm.
13With the ignition switched off, check
carefully through the system ensuring that all
connections are clean and securely fastened.
If the equipment is available, check the LT
circuit as described in paragraphs 7 to 11
above.
14Check that the HT coil, the distributor cap
and the HT leads are clean and dry. Check the
leads and the spark plugs (by substitution, if
necessary), then check the distributor cap,
carbon brush and rotor arm.
15Regular misfiring is almost certainly due to
a fault in the distributor cap, HT leads or spark
plugs. Use a timing light (paragraph 5, above)
to check whether HT voltage is present at all
leads.
16If HT voltage is not present on any
particular lead, the fault will be in that lead or
in the distributor cap. If HT is present on all
leads, the fault will be in the spark plugs;
check and renew them if there is any doubt
about their condition.
17If no HT voltage is present, check the
ignition coil; its secondary windings may be
breaking down under load.
18If all components have been checked for
signs of obvious faults but the system is still
thought to be faulty, take the vehicle to a
Vauxhall dealer for testing on special
equipment.
5Battery - testing and charging
2
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding.
Testing
1Topping-up and testing of the electrolyte in
each cell is not possible. The condition of the
battery can therefore only be tested by
observing the battery condition indicator.
2The battery condition indicator is fitted in
the top of the battery casing, and indicates
the condition of the battery from its colour. If
the indicator shows green, then the battery is
in a good state of charge. If the indicator turns
darker, eventually to black, then the battery
requires charging, as described later in this
Section. If the indicator shows clear/yellow,
then the electrolyte level in the battery is too
low to allow further use, and the battery
should be renewed.
Charging
3Do not attempt to charge, load or jump start
a battery when the indicator shows
clear/yellow. If the battery is to be charged,
remove it from the vehicle and charge it as
follows.
4The maintenance-free type battery takes
considerably longer to fully recharge than the
standard type, the time taken being
dependent on the extent of discharge.5A constant-voltage type charger is required,
to be set, when connected, to 13.9 to 14.9
volts with a charger current below 25 amps.
6If the battery is to be charged from a fully
discharged state (less than 12.2 volts output),
have it recharged by a Vauxhall dealer or
battery specialist, as the charge rate will be
high and constant supervision during charging
is necessary.
6Battery - removal and refitting
2
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding.
Removal
1The battery is located at the left-hand front
corner of the engine compartment.
2Disconnect the lead(s) at the negative
(earth) terminal by unscrewing the retaining
nut and removing the terminal clamp.
3Disconnect the positive terminal lead(s) in
the same way.
4Unscrew the clamp bolt sufficiently to
enable the battery to be lifted from its
location. Keep the battery in an upright
position, to avoid spilling electrolyte on the
bodywork.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but smear
petroleum jelly on the terminals when
reconnecting the leads, and always connect
the positive lead first and the negative lead
last.
7Alternator - description
1A Delco-Remy or Bosch alternator may be
fitted, depending on model and engine
capacity. The maximum output of the
alternator varies accordingly.
2The alternator is belt-driven from the
crankshaft pulley. Cooling is provided by a
fan, mounted outside the casing on the end of
the rotor shaft. An integral voltage regulator is
incorporated, to control the output voltage.
3The alternator provides a charge to the
battery even at very low engine speed, and
consists of a coil-wound stator in which a
rotor rotates. The rotor shaft is supported in
ball-bearings, and slip rings are used to
conduct current to and from the field coils
through the carbon brushes.
4The alternator generates ac (alternating
current), which is rectified by an internal diode
circuit to dc (direct current) for supply to the
battery.
5Later models are fitted with a Delco-Remy,
‘compact’ series alternators (see illustration).
They use a ribbed V-belt type drivebelt with
automatic tensioner. They are rigidly mounted
to the engine.
Engine electrical systems 5•5
5

11
Torque wrench settingNm lbf ft
Front seat rails to floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Seat belt fixings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26
1 General description
The bodyshell and floorpan are of pressed
steel, and form an integral part of the vehicle’s
structure, without the need for a separate
chassis.
Various areas are strengthened, to provide
for suspension, steering and engine mounting
points, and load distribution.
Extensive corrosion protection is applied to
all new vehicles. Various anti-corrosion
preparations are used, including galvanising
and PVC under-sealing. Protective wax is
injected into the box sections and other
hollow cavities.
Extensive use is made of plastic for
peripheral components, such as the radiator
grille, bumpers and wheel trims, and for much
of the interior trim.Interior fittings are to a high standard on all
models, and a wide range of optional
equipment is available throughout the range.
Except for the rear quarter windows, all
fixed glass is bonded in position, using a
special adhesive. Any work in this area should
be entrusted to a Vauxhall dealer or glass
replacement specialist.
2 Bodywork and underframe -
maintenance
1
The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those partsof the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches and the lower part of the engine
compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids that may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way to remove any
accumulated mud that will retain moisture and
tend to encourage rust. Oddly enough, the
best time to clean the underframe and wheel
arches is in wet weather when the mud is
thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet weather
the underframe is usually cleaned of large
accumulations automatically and this is a
good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Bodywork and underframe - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Bonnet - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Bonnet lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Bonnet lock release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Boot lid (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Boot lid lock (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Boot lid lock cylinder (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . . . . . .11
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Door - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Door check arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Door exterior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Door interior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Door lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Door lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Door mirror - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Door window - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Door window regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Engine undershield (DOHC models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . .32
Facia panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Fuel filler flap - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Headlining - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Interior trim panels - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Interior trim panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Radiator grille panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Rear quarter windows - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Seat belt tensioners - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Seats (without tensioners) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Seats, front (with seat belt tensioners) - removal and refitting . . . . . .43
Sunroof - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Tailgate (Hatchback models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Tailgate lock (Hatchback models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .13
Tailgate lock cylinder (Hatchback models) - removal and refitting . .14
Tailgate strut (Hatchback models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .15
Upholstery and carpets - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Wheel arch liners - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Windscreen and rear window - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Windscreen cowl panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
11•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

wax-based underbody protective coating, it is
a good idea to have the whole of the
underframe of the vehicle steam cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to see
what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. Steam cleaning is available at
many garages and is necessary for removal of
the accumulation of oily grime that sometimes
is allowed to become thick in certain areas.
The dirt can then be simply hosed off. Note
that these methods should not be used on
vehicles with wax-based underbody
protective coating or the coating will be
removed. Such vehicles should be inspected
annually, preferably just before winter, when
the underbody should be washed down and
any damage to the wax coating repaired.
Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be
applied. It would also be worth considering
the use of such wax-based protection for
injection into door panels, sills, box sections,
etc., as an additional safeguard against rust
damage where such protection is not
provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish,
will give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen
has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to
avoid damage to the finish.
Always check that the door and ventilator
opening drain holes and pipes are completely
clear so that water can be drained out. Bright
work should be treated in the same way as
paint work. Windscreens and windows can be
kept clear of the smeary film that often
appears, by using a glass cleaner. Never use
any form of wax or other body or chromium
polish on glass.
3Upholstery and carpets -
maintenance
1
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum cleaned regularly to keep them free of
grit. If they are badly stained remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light coloured upholstery) use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining
clean in the same way as the upholstery.
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.Excessive damp could get into the seams and
padded interior causing stains, offensive
odours or even rot. If the inside of the vehicle
gets wet accidentally it is worthwhile taking
some trouble to dry it out properly, particularly
where carpets are involved. Do not leave oil or
electric heaters inside the vehicle for this
purpose.
4Minor body damage - repair
3
Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, to
remove loose paint from the scratch and to
clear the surrounding bodywork of wax polish.
Rinse the area with clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden: then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste and apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust inhibiting paint, to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste that is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners and then quickly
sweep it across the surface of the
stopper-paste in the scratch; this will ensure
that the surface of the stopper-paste is
slightly hollowed. The scratch can now be
painted over as described earlier in this
Section.
Repair of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point that is about 8 in (3 mm) below the level
of the surrounding bodywork. In cases where
the dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worthtrying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a block of wood firmly against the
outside of the panel to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being
“belled-out”.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork that has a double skin or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
The next stage of the repair is the removal
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a good “key” for the
filler paste.
To complete the repair see the Section on
filling and re-spraying.
Repair of rust holes or gashes in
bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area and
from an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire
brush on a power drill. If these are not
available a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job just as effectively. With the paint
removed you will be able to gauge the severity
of the corrosion and therefore decide whether
to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or
to repair the affected area. New body panels
are not as expensive as most people think
and it is often quicker and more satisfactory
to fit a new panel than to attempt to repair
large areas of corrosion.
Remove all fittings from the affected area
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (e.g.
headlamp shells, etc.). Then, using tin snips or
a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards to
create a slight depression for the filler paste.
Wire brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the surface of the
remaining metal. Paint the affected area with
rust inhibiting paint. If the back of the rusted
area is accessible treat this also.
Before filling can take place it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by using aluminium or plastic
mesh, or aluminium tape.
11•2Bodywork and fittings

3The tensioner assembly, fitted to the
underside of the front seat, is maintenance
free and, once triggered, must be replaced as
a complete unit.
4Due to the specialist safety related nature
of the seat belt tensioner system, replacement
must be entrusted to a suitably equipped
Vauxhall dealer.
43Front seats (with seat belt
tensioners) -removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1Remove the single securing screw from the
front edge of the outer seat rail trim, release
the rear retaining lug and remove the trim
rearwards.
2Unclip the trim from the rear edge of the
inner seat rail.3Locate the plastic safety fork for the seat
belt tensioner, which is usually taped to the
outside of the tensioner spring cylinder.
4Insert the fork into the aperture provided at
the rear of the spring cylinder, ensuring that
the fork engages securely (see illustration).
5Remove the four bolts which secure the
seat rails to the floor, then withdraw the seat
complete with rails (see illustration). Recover
the washers and backplates.
6Seek the advice of a Vauxhall dealer if there
is any doubt about the condition of the seat
belt tensioner assembly.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal. Note that
the manufacturers recommend the use of new
bolts to secure the seat rails to the floor.
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque
wrench settings (see Specifications) in the
order - rear inner, front inner, rear outer, front
outer.
11•22Bodywork and fittings
42.1 Mechanical seat belt tensioner system
1 Spring2 Bowden cable3 Fulcrum mechanism
43.5 Front outer seat rail fixings
1 Securing bolt
2 Seat belt tensioner safety fork (inserted
in the spring cylinder)43.4 Inserting the safety fork into the
aperture in the seat belt tensioner spring
cylinder
Warning: The seat belt
tensioners fitted to the front
seat assemblies may cause
injury if triggered inadvertently.
Before carrying out any work on the front
seats, a safety fork must be inserted into
the seat belt tensioner cylinder, to prevent
the possibility of the tensioner being
triggered (see paragraphs 7 and 8 below).
Seats should always be transported and
installed with the safety fork in place. If a
seat is to be disposed of, the tensioner
must be triggered before the seat is
removed from the vehicle, by inserting the
safety fork, and striking the tensioner
cylinder sharply with a hammer. If the
tensioner has been triggered due to a
sudden impact or accident, the unit must
be renewed, as it cannot be reset. Due to
safety considerations, tensioner renewal
should be entrusted to a Vauxhall dealer.

4The cut-off valve can now be removed from
the bracket.
Testing
5To test the cut-off valve a vacuum hand
pump with gauge will be required. If available,
connect to the cut-off valve and ensure that
air through-flow aperture is fully open.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
valve is fitted in the correct direction.
8AIR switchover valve -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect wiring plug from the valve.
3Mark the location of the vacuum hoses
before removing them from the valve.
4After disconnecting the hoses undo the two
bolts, and remove them from its bracket.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
hoses are fitted correctly (see illustration).
9AIR pipe and non-return
valve - removal and refitting
3
Note:New air pipe washers will be required
when refitting.
Removal
1Remove the non-return valve air duct hose.
2Undo the bolts engine lifting eye bracket,
and turn the bracket on to its left hand side.
3Remove the pipe support bracket by
releasing its three bolts.
4Remove the heat shield that is secured by
two bolts.
5The air pipe can now be removed by
releasing the two securing bolts.
6If necessary the non-return valve can now
be disconnected.
7Carefully clamp the pipe using a vice with
protective jaws. Unbolt the valve from the
pipe, clean and inspect for damage.
Refitting
8Before refitting, coat the threads of the non-
return valve with sealing compound (i.e.
Vauxhall part no. 90094714).
9Use new washers when refitting the pipe,
(take care as the washers have sharp edges).
Coat the pipe mounting bolts with assembly
paste (i.e. Vauxhall part no. 90513210), before
refitting.
10Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Retighten to correct torque as shown in Spec-
ifications.
10Catalytic converter -
description, general and
precautions
Note: The catalytic converter is not a filter. It
creates a chemical reaction, but it is not
affected by that reaction.
Description
1Certain models are available with a catalytic
converter, to reduce exhaust emissions.
These models can be identified by a ‘C’ or ‘X’,
prefixing the engine code.
2The purpose of the catalytic converter is to
change potentially harmful hydrocarbon andcarbon monoxide exhaust gases into harmless
gases and water vapour. The converter
consists of a stainless steel canister containing
a catalyst-coated honeycomb ceramic. The
catalyst is a mixture of three precious metals,
platinum, palladium and rhodium.
3The exhaust gases pass freely through the
honeycomb, where the catalyst speeds up the
chemical change of the exhaust gases,
without being permanently altered itself.
4To avoid damage to the catalyst, the engine
must be kept properly tuned, and unleaded
petrol must always be used. Normal leaded
petrol will “poison” the catalyst, and must not
be used.
5To enable the Motronic engine management
system to achieve complete combustion of the
fuel mixture, and thus to minimise exhaust
emissions, an oxygen sensor is fitted in the
exhaust gas stream. The sensor monitors the
oxygen level in the exhaust gas, and sends a
signal to the Motronic module. The module
constantly alters the fuel/air mixture within a
narrow band to reduce emissions, and to allow
the catalytic converter to operate at maximum
efficiency. No adjustment of idle mixture is
therefore possible on models fitted with a
catalytic converter.
General
6Ninety-nine per cent of exhaust gases, from
a petrol engine (however efficient or well
tuned), consists of nitrogen (N
2), carbon
dioxide (CO
2), oxygen (O2), other inert gases
and water vapour (H
2O). The remaining 1% is
made up of the noxious materials that are
currently seen (except CO
2), as the major
polluters of the environment. Carbon
monoxide (CO), unburned hydrocarbons (HC),
oxides of nitrogen (NOx) and some solid
matter, including a small lead content.
7The device most commonly used to clean
up vehicle exhausts is the catalytic converter.
It is fitted into the vehicle’s exhaust system
and uses precious metals (platinum and
palladium or rhodium) as catalysts to speed
up the reaction between the pollutants and
the oxygen in the exhaust gases. CO and HC
being oxidised to form H
2O and CO2and (in
the three-way type of catalytic converter) NOx
being reduced to N
2.
8The converter consists of an element of
ceramic honeycomb, coated with a
combination of precious metals in such a way
as to produce a vast surface area over which
the exhaust gases must flow. The three-way
closed-loop type converter fitted to these
models can remove over 90% of pollutants.
9The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device that needs no maintenance.
However there are some facts that an owner
should be aware if the converter is to function
properly for its full service life (see
illustration).
a)DO NOT use leaded petrol in a vehicle
equipped with a catalytic converter. The
lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency and
will eventually destroy the converter.
Fuel and exhaust systems - exhaust and emissions 4C•3
10.9 The catalytic converter is protected
by heat shields
8.5 AIR switchover valve
1 Connection to brake servo vacuum hose
2 Connection to cut-off valve
7.1 AIR cut-off valve
1 Connection to AIR pump
2 Connection to AIR switchover valve
3 Connection to AIR non-return valve
4C

b)Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well maintained according to the
manufacturers schedule (see “Routine
maintenance” and the relevant Chapter).
In particular, ensure that the air cleaner
filter element, the fuel filter and the spark
plugs are renewed at the correct intervals.
If the inlet air/fuel mixture is allowed to
become too rich due to neglect, the
unburned surplus will enter and burn in
the catalytic converter, overheating the
element and eventually destroying the
converter.
c)If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little
as possible) until the fault is cured. The
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating, as noted above.
d)The engine control indicator (the outline
of an engine with a lightning symbol
superimposed), will light when the ignition
is switched on and the engine is started,
then it will go out. While it may light briefly
while the engine is running, it should go
out again immediately and stays unlit. If it
lights and stays on while the engine is
running, seek the advice of a Vauxhall
dealer as soon as possible. A fault has
occurred in the fuel injection/ignition
system that, apart from increasing fuel
consumption and impairing the engine’s
performance, may damage the catalytic
converter.
e)DO NOT push or tow-start the vehicle.
This will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel causing it to overheat when
the engine does start see (b) above.
f)DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds. If the ignition is switched
off at anything above idle speed,
unburned fuel will enter the (very hot)
catalytic converter, with the possible risk
of its igniting on the element and
damaging the converter.
g)DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives.
These may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
h)DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke. The unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases the element will overheat.
i)Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures hence
the heat shields on the vehicle’s under-
body and the casing will become hot
enough to ignite combustible materials
that brush against it. DO NOT, therefore,
park the vehicle in dry undergrowth, over
long grass or over piles of dead leaves.
j)Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGlLE. Do not strike it with tools during
servicing work. Take great care when
working on the exhaust system. Ensure
that the converter is well clear of any
jacks or other lifting gear used to raise thevehicle. Do not drive the vehicle over
rough ground, road humps, etc., in such a
way as to ground the exhaust system.
k)In some cases, particularly when the
vehicle is new and/or is used for
stop/start driving, a sulphurous smell (like
that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from
the exhaust. This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped vehicles and
seems to be due to the small amount of
sulphur found in some petrol’s reacting
with hydrogen in the exhaust to produce
hydrogen sulphide (CS) gas. While this
gas is toxic, it is not produced in sufficient
amounts to be a problem. Once the
vehicle has covered a few thousand miles
the problem should disappear. In the
meanwhile a change of driving style or of
the brand of petrol may effect a solution.
l)The catalytic converter, used on a
well-maintained and well-driven vehicle,
should last for between 50 000 and 100
000 miles. From this point on, careful
checks should be made at all specified
service intervals of the CO level to ensure
that the converter is still operating
efficiently. If the converter is no longer
effective it must be renewed.
11Carbon canister - removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the front right hand wheel and
wheel arch liner.
3Note the hose and pipe connections to the
canister, or label them, to ensure that they are
reconnected to their original unions, then
disconnect them (see illustration). Unscrew
the two nuts securing the canister mounting
bracket to the vehicle body.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
ensure correct fitment of hose and pipes.
12Oxygen sensor (catalytic
converter models) - removal
and refitting
3
Note: This sensor is also known as a Lambda
sensor.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring plug,
which is located behind the coolant expansion
tank.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members.
4On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, as described in Chapter 11.
5On models fitted with Multec injection
system, the sensor is screwed into the
exhaust manifold. Trace the wiring from the
sensor itself to the connector (either clipped
to the radiator cooling fan shroud or behind
the coolant expansion tank). Release it from
any clips or ties; disconnect the wiring before
unscrewing the sensor.
6On other models, unscrew the oxygen
sensor from the front section of the exhaust
system (see illustration). It is advisable to
wear gloves, as the exhaust system will be
extremely hot.
7Withdraw the oxygen sensor and its wiring,
taking care not to burn the wiring on the
exhaust system. If the sensor is to be re-used,
take care that the sealing ring is not lost, and
that the sensor is not dropped.
Refitting
8If a new sensor is being fitted, it will be
supplied with the threads coated in a special
grease to prevent it seizing in the exhaust
system.
9If the original sensor is being refitted,
ensure that the screw thread is clean. Coat
the thread with a lithium based copper grease
(i.e. Vauxhall Part No. 90295397).
10Refitting is a reversal of removal. Check
the exhaust system for leakage when the
engine is re-started.
4C•4Fuel and exhaust systems - exhaust and emissions
12.6 Oxygen sensor location in front
section of exhaust system - DOHC models
11.3 Charcoal canister
A Vent to atmosphere
B Vapour feed hose from filler pipe
C Vapour exhaust hose to inlet tract
D Control valve vacuum pipe from
throttle body