1988 OPEL CALIBRA trunk release

10Throttle pedal - removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1Working inside the vehicle, remove the
lower trim panel from the driver’s footwell.
2Slide the cable retainer from the bracket on
the top of the pedal, and disconnect the cable
end from the pedal.
3Extract the circlip from the right-hand end
of the pedal pivot shaft, then slide out the
pivot shaft from the left-hand side of the pivot
bracket (see illustration). Recover the pivot
bushes and the pedal return spring.
4Examine the pivot bushes for wear, and
renew if necessary.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on
completion check the throttle mechanism for
satisfactory operation, and check the throttle
cable adjustment, as described in Section 11.
11Throttle cable - removal,
refitting and adjustment
3
Removal
1Remove the air cleaner, on early models.
On later models, disconnect the air trunking
from the air cleaner, then disconnect the
vacuum pipe and breather hose from the airbox. Extract the three securing screws and lift
off the air box, complete with air trunking(see
illustration).
2Extract the clip from the cable end fitting at
the bracket on the carburettor, then slide the
cable end grommet from the bracket (see
illustrations).
3Slide the cable end from the throttle valve
lever on the carburettor.
4Working inside the vehicle, remove the
lower trim panel from the driver’s footwell.
5Slide the cable retainer from the bracket on
the top of the pedal, and disconnect the cable
end from the pedal.
6Make a careful note of the cable routing,
then withdraw the cable through the bulkhead
into the engine compartment.Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
8Ensure that the cable is correctly routed, as
noted before removal.
9Ensure that the bulkhead grommet is
correctly seated in its hole.
Adjustment
10On completion, check the throttle
mechanism for satisfactory operation, and if
necessary adjust the cable, as described in
the following paragraphs.
11Two points of cable adjustment are
provided. A stop screw is located on the
pedal arm to control the fully released position
of the pedal stop (see illustration).A clip is
located on a threaded section of the cable
sheath at the bracket on the carburettor, to
adjust the cable free play.12The cable should be adjusted so that
when the throttle pedal is released, there is
very slight free play in the cable at the
carburettor end.
13Check that when the throttle pedal is fully
depressed, the throttle valve is fully open.
Adjust the position of the clip on the cable
sheath, and the pedal stop screw, to achieve
the desired results.
12Carburettor - general
1The Pierburg 2E3 carburettor is of twin-
venturi, fixed-jet sequential throttle type. The
primary throttle valve operates alone except
at high engine speeds and loads, when the
secondary throttle valve is operated, until at
full-throttle, both are fully open. This
arrangement allows good fuel economy
during light acceleration and cruising, but also
gives maximum power at full-throttle. The
secondary throttle valve is vacuum-operated,
according to the vacuum produced in the
primary venturi. The primary throttle barrel
and venturi diameters are smaller than their
secondary counterparts. The carburettor is a
complicated instrument, with various
refinements and sub-systems added to
achieve improved driveability, economy and
exhaust emission levels(see illustrations).
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•5
11.2A Extract the throttle cable end
clip . . .
12.1A Side view of carburettor, showing
accelerator pump (1) and main choke pull-
down diaphragm unit (2)11.11 Throttle pedal stop screw11.2B . . .and slide the grommet from the
bracket
11.1 Removing an air box securing screw10.3 Throttle pedal pivot assembly. Circlip
arrowed
4A

8Alternator drivebelt -
removal, refitting and adjusting
2
V-belt type (not-ribbed)
Removal
1Disconnect the air inlet trunking from the air
cleaner, and the air box or throttle body, as
applicable, and remove it for improved
access.
2Correct tensioning of the drivebelt will
ensure that it has a long life. Beware,
however, of overtightening, as this can cause
excessive wear in the alternator.
3The belt should be inspected regularly, and
if it is found to be worn, frayed or cracked, it
should be renewed as a precaution against
breakage in service. It is advisable to carry a
spare drivebelt of the correct type in the
vehicle always.
4On models with power steering, the
alternator drivebelt also drives the power
steering pump.
5To remove the belt, on 1.8 and 2.0 litre
models first remove the power steering pump
drivebelt, as described in Chapter 10.
6Loosen the two alternator mounting nuts
and bolts sufficiently to allow the alternator to
be pivoted in towards the engine.
7Slide the belt from the pulleys.
Refitting
8Ensure that the correct type of belt is used,
if it is being renewed. Fit the belt around the
pulleys. Take up the slack in the belt byswinging the alternator away from the engine
and lightly tightening the mounting nuts and
bolts.
Adjusting
9Although special tools are available for
measuring the belt tension, a good
approximation can be achieved if the belt is
tensioned so that there is approximately 13.0
mm (0.5 in) of free movement under firm
thumb pressure at the mid-point of the
longest run between pulleys.
10With the mounting bolts just holding the
unit, lever the alternator away from the engine
using a wooden lever at the mounting bracket
end until the correct tension is achieved. Then
tighten the mounting nuts and bolts. On no
account lever at the free end of the alternator,
as serious internal damage could be caused.11Where applicable, refit and tension the
power steering pump drivebelt, as described
in Chapter 10.
12Refit the air inlet trunking.
13When a new belt has been fitted, it will
probably stretch slightly when it is first run,
and the tension should be rechecked and if
necessary adjusted after approximately 250
miles (400 km).
Ribbed V-belt type
General
14Later models equipped with power
steering are fitted with a ribbed V-belt type
drivebelt in conjunction with an automatic
tensioning roller. Once the belt is installed, no
further adjustment is necessary as the correct
tension is maintained by the automatic
tensioning roller. Removal and refitting
procedures are as follows.
Removal
15For improved access, remove the air
cleaner assembly and air inlet trunking.
16If the original drivebelt is to be refitted, mark
the rotational direction on the belt with chalk.
17Using a spanner or socket on the
automatic tensioning roller hexagon, turn the
tensioning roller clockwise (as viewed from the
right-hand side of the car) and hold it in this
position. With the drivebelt tension released,
slip the drivebelt off the pulleys, then allow the
tensioner to return to its original position.
18Support the engine under the sump with a
jack and interposed block of wood.
19From under the car, unbolt the right-hand
engine mounting block from the body.
20Lower the engine support jack just
sufficiently to allow the drivebelt to be
withdrawn from between the mounting block
and the body.
Refitting
21Slip the new drivebelt between the
mounting block and body then raise the
engine, by means of the jack, to its original
position.
22Clean the threads of the mounting block
retaining bolts, apply locking fluid, and refit
the bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified
torque (see Chapter 2A).
23Rotate the automatic tensioner roller anti-
clockwise and route the drivebelt around the
pulleys as shown (see illustration). With the
belt correctly positioned, release the tensioner
that will automatically apply the correct
tension to the belt.
24On completion, refit the air cleaner
assembly and the air inlet trunking.
5•6Engine electrical systems
7.5 Sectional view of the Delco-Remy
“compact” series alternator
1 Drive end bracket
2 Stator
3 Rotor4 Slip rings
5 Fan
6 Rectifier
8.23 Correct routing of the ribbed V-belt

9Alternator-removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding
Except ‘compact’ series
alternators
Removal
1Disconnect the battery leads.
2Disconnect the air trunking from the air
cleaner, and the air box or throttle body, as
applicable, and remove it for improved
access.
3Disconnect the wiring plug, or disconnect
the wires from their terminals on the rear of
the alternator, noting their locations (see
illustration).
4Remove the drivebelt, (Section 8).
5Unscrew the two mounting bolts and nuts
and recover any washers and insulating
bushes, noting their locations. Note the earth
strap attached to the top mounting bolt (see
illustration).
6Withdraw the alternator, taking care not to
knock or drop it, as this can cause irreparable
damage.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
8Ensure that the earth lead is in place on the
top mounting bolt.
9Refit and tension the drivebelt, (Section 8).
‘Compact’ series alternators
Removal
10Disconnect the battery negative lead.
11Remove the air inlet trunking and, if
necessary for improved access, the air
cleaner assembly.
12Mark the rotational direction on the
alternator drivebelt with chalk.
13Using a spanner or socket on the
automatic tensioning roller hexagon turn the
tensioning roller clockwise (as viewed from
the right-hand side of the car) and hold it in
this position. With the drivebelt tension
released, slip the drivebelt off the alternator
pulley, then allow the tensioner to return to its
original position.14Disconnect the electrical cable
connections at the rear of the alternator.
15Undo and remove the alternator lower
mounting bolt, and slacken both upper bolts
that secure the alternator mounting brackets
to the engine.
16Undo and remove both bolts that secure
the alternator to its mounting brackets, noting
the location of the different length bolts.
Swing the brackets clear and remove the
alternator from the engine.
Refitting
17Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting bolts to the specified torque,
and refit the drivebelt as described in
Section 8.
10Alternator -testing
5
Due to the specialist knowledge and
equipment required to test or service an
alternator, it is recommended that if a fault is
suspected, the vehicle is taken to a dealer or a
specialist. Information is limited to the
inspection and renewal of the brushes.
Should the alternator not charge, or the
system be suspect, the following points may
be checked before seeking further assistance:
a)Check the drivebelt tension, as described
in Section 8
b)Check the condition of the battery and its
connections -see Section 5c)Inspect all electrical cables and
connections for condition and security
Note that if the alternator is found to be
faulty, it may prove more economical to buy a
factory-reconditioned unit, rather than having
the existing unit overhauled.
11Alternator brushes -removal,
inspection and refitting
3
Removal
Delco-Remy type (except ‘compact’
series)
1Remove the alternator, as described in
Section 9
2Scribe a line across the drive end housing
and the slip ring end housing, to ensure
correct alignment when reassembling.
3Unscrew the three through-bolts, and prise
the drive end housing and rotor away from the
slip ring end housing and stator (see
illustration).
4Check the condition of the slip rings, and if
necessary clean with a rag or very fine glass
paper (see illustration).
5Remove the three nuts and washers
securing the stator leads to the rectifier, and
lift away the stator assembly (see
illustration).
Engine electrical systems 5•7
11.3 Separating the drive end housing
from the slip ring end housing - Delco-
Remy alternator
11.4 Alternator slip rings (arrowed) -
Delco-Remy alternator
11.5 Delco-Remy alternator
A Stator lead securing nuts
B Brush holder/voltage regulator
securing screws
9.5 Disconnecting the earth lead from the
top alternator mounting bolt9.3 Disconnecting the wires from the
terminals on the rear of the alternator -
Delco-Remy alternator
5

31This engine is also fitted with an EGR
(exhaust gas recirculation) valve and
secondary air injection (AIR - Air Injection
Reactor), to conform to the latest European
exhaust emission limits (as from 1996). The
EGR returns a specific amount of exhaust gas
into the combustion process. This in turn
reduces the formation of nitrogen oxides
(No
x). The secondary air injection system has
an electrically driven air pump that injects air
into the exhaust manifold, reducing the
amount of CO and HC emissions.
2Fuel injection system -
precautions
The fuel injection system is pressurised,
therefore extra care must be taken when
disconnecting fuel lines. When disconnecting
a fuel line union, loosen the union slowly, to
avoid a sudden release of pressure that may
cause fuel to spray out.
Fuel pressure checking must be entrusted
to a Vauxhall dealer, or other specialist, who
has the necessary special equipment.
3System testing - general
3
General
1Apart from basic electrical tests, there is
nothing that can be done by the owner to test
individual fuel system components.2If a fault arises, check first that it is not due
to poor maintenance. Check that the air
cleaner filter element is clean, the spark plugs
are in good condition and correctly gapped.
Check also that the engine breather hoses are
clear and undamaged and that the throttle
cable is correctly adjusted. If the engine is
running very roughly, check the compression
pressures (Chapter 1) and remember the
possibility that one of the hydraulic tappets
might be faulty, producing an incorrect valve
clearance.
3If the fault is thought to be due to a dirty
injector, it is worth trying one of the
established injector-cleaning treatments
before renewing, perhaps unnecessarily, the
injector.
4If the fault persists, check the ignition
system components (as far as possible).
5If the fault is still not eliminated, work
methodically through the system, checking all
fuses, wiring connectors and wiring, looking
for any signs of poor connections, dampness,
corrosion, dirt or other faults.
6Once the system components have been
checked for signs of obvious faults, take the
vehicle to a Vauxhall dealer for the full system
to be tested on special equipment.
7Do not attempt to “test” any component,
but particularly the ECU, with anything other
than the correct test equipment, available at a
Vauxhall dealer. If any of the wires to be
checked lead to a component such as the
ECU, always first unplug the relevant
connector from the system components so
that there is no risk of the component being
damaged by the application of incorrect
voltages from test equipment.
4Air cleaner - removal and
refitting
2
Note:If ‘round type’ air filter is fitted, follow
procedure in Chapter 4A.
Removal
1Unclip the coolant expansion tank hose
from the air cleaner cover, and move it to one
side out of the way.2Loosen the clamp screw and disconnect
the air trunking from the airflow meter (see
illustration).
3Disconnect the battery negative lead, then
disconnect the wiring plug from the airflow
meter.
4Release the two securing clips from the left-
hand side of the air cleaner cover, and
unscrew the two captive securing screws
from the right-hand side, then lift off the
cover.
5Lift out the filter element.
6Loosen the preheat hoses, fastening nuts.
7Undo the nuts securing the 2 rubber block
studs which are secured through the lower
half of the air cleaner housing.
8Some models are fitted with an inlet air
resonance box, to reduce induction noise.
This box is located under the wheel arch, and
connects to a pipe on the air inlet tube.
9The resonance box must be removed
before the air inlet tube can be removed. To
do this, first apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the vehicle, and support securely
on axle stands placed under the body side
members.
10Remove the securing screws, and
withdraw the lower splash shield from the
wing to expose the resonance box.
11Unscrew the single securing screw, and
pull the resonance box from the connector
tube (see illustrations).
12If desired, the air inlet tube can be
removed after pulling off the connector tube
from under the wing (see illustration).
4B•4Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models
4.12 Removing the resonance box
connector tube4.11B . . . and withdraw the resonance box4.11A Remove the securing screw . . .
4.2 Loosening the air trunking clamp
screw at the airflow meter
Warning: Many of the
procedures in this sub-Section
require the removal of fuel lines
and connections that may result
in some fuel spillage. Before carrying out
any operation on the fuel system refer to
the precautions given in Safety first! at
the beginning of this Manual and follow
them implicitly. Petrol is a highly
dangerous and volatile liquid, and the
precautions necessary when handling it
cannot be overstressed.

4B
13Manipulate the air inlet tube to release the
securing lugs from the front body panel. This
is a tricky operation, and patience will be
required. For improved access, the headlamp
can be removed, as described in Chapter 12.
Refitting
14Refitting of all components is a reversal of
removal, noting that the air cleaner element
fits with the rubber locating flange uppermost.
5Air box - removal and refitting
2
Removal
1The air box, if fitted, is secured by two or
three bolts to the top of the throttle body.
Take note of the routing and connections of
the inlet air temperature control system
vacuum pipes.
2Disconnect the engine breather hose from
the air box and the vacuum pipe from the
rearmost of the throttle body’s three unions
(see illustration).
3Do not lose the sealing ring as the air box is
withdrawn.
Refitting
4On refitting, ensure that the sealing ring is
seated correctly in the slot in the underside of
the air box, tighten the screws, and reconnect
the vacuum pipe and breather hose (see
illustrations).
6Air temperature control -
description and testing
3
Description
1Fitted to models with Multec systems, air
temperature is controlled by a thermac switch
(thermostat), mounted in the air box. When
the engine is started from cold, the switch is
closed to allow inlet manifold depression to
act on the air temperature control valve in the
air cleaner assembly. This uses a vacuum
servo in the valve assembly to draw a flap
valve across the cold air inlet thus allowing
only (warmed) air from the exhaust manifold to
enter the air cleaner.2As the temperature of the exhaust warmed
air in the air box rises, a bi-metallic strip in the
thermac switch deforms. This opens the
switch to shut off the depression in the air
temperature control valve. The flap is then
lowered gradually across the hot air inlet. Until
the engine is fully warmed up to normal
operating temperature, only cold air from the
front of the vehicle is entering the air cleaner.
Testing
3To check the system, allow the engine to
cool down completely, then remove the air
cleaner cover; the flap valve should be
securely seated across the hot air inlet. Start
the engine. The flap should immediately rise to
close off the cold air inlet. It should then lower
steadily as the engine warms until it is
eventually seated across the hot air inlet again.
4To check the thermac switch, disconnect
the control valve vacuum pipe from the switch
union (on the rear face of the air box) when the
engine is running. With the engine cold, full
inlet manifold depression should be felt
sucking at the union; none at all should be felt
when the engine is fully warmed up.
5To check the air temperature control valve,
remove the air cleaner cover; the flap valve
should be securely seated across the hot air
inlet. Disconnect the control valve vacuum
pipe from the switch union on the rear face of
the air box and suck hard on its end; the flap
should rise to shut off the cold air inlet.
6If either component is faulty, it must be
renewed. This means renewing the air cleaner
lower casing to obtain a new air temperature
control valve, or renewing the air box in the
case of the thermac switch.
7Air temperature sensor (later
models) - removal and
refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the wiring plug at the inlet air
temperature sensor.
3Release the hose clips and remove the air
trunking then remove the inlet air temperature
sensor from the trunking.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal but ensure
that the air trunking is connected to the
airflow meter as shown (see illustration).
8Depressurising the fuel
system - general
2
General
1The fuel system consisting of the
tank-mounted fuel pump, the fuel filter, the
fuel injector and the pressure regulator in the
throttle body. Metal pipes and flexible hoses
of the fuel lines connect these components.
All these contain fuel that will be under
pressure while the engine is running and/or
while the ignition is switched on.
2The pressure will remain for some time after
the ignition has been switched off and must
be relieved before any of these components
are disturbed.
3Remove either the fuel pump fuse (num-
ber 11) or the fuel pump relay and start the
engine. Allow the engine to idle until it cuts
out. Turn the engine over once or twice on the
starter to ensure that all pressure is released,
then switch off the ignition.
4Do not forget to refit the fuse or relay when
work is complete.
Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models 4B•5
5.4B Do not overtighten the air box
screws
7.4 Removing the intake air temperature
sensor from the air trunking - later models
5.4A Ensure the sealing ring is located in
the air box groove5.2 Vacuum pipe connections to air box
A To throttle body B To air cleaner
Warning: The following
procedures will merely relieve
the pressure in the fuel system.
Remember that fuel will still be
present in the system components, so
take precautions before disconnecting
any of them. Refer to Section 2.

4B
4Clamp the fuel hoses on either side of the
damper, to minimise fuel loss when the hoses
are disconnected.
5Loosen the clamp screws, and disconnect
the fuel hoses from the damper. Be prepared
for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions.
6Unscrew the securing nut, and withdraw
the damper from the bracket.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
8Run the engine and check for leaks on
completion. If leakage is evident; stop the
engine immediately, and rectify the problem
without delay.
19Throttle cable - removal,
refitting and adjustment
3
Removal
1This procedure is basically the same as
described in Chapter 4A, but note the
following.
2Not all models are fitted with an air box.
Ignore references to it, if not applicable.
3For “carburettor” substitute “throttle body”,
and note that the cable bracket is bolted to
the inlet manifold.
4The throttle cable end may connect to a
balljoint on the throttle valve lever, which is
retained by a clip (see illustration).
5If fitted, remove the air box. Refer to
Section 5, if necessary.
6Where fitted, use a pair of needle-nosed
pliers to extract the wire spring clip securing
the cable end balljoint to the throttle linkage.
Prise the cable end off the linkage.
7Withdraw the clip and pull the cable outer
seating grommet out of the cable bracket,
then release the cable as far as the bulkhead
(see illustration).
8Working inside the passenger
compartment, remove the driver’s footwell
trim panel, refer to Chapter 11, if necessary.
9Release the end of the cable’s inner wire
from the “keyhole” fitting at the top of the
throttle pedal by easing back the spring and
prising the cable end out of the slot.10Prise the grommet out of the bulkhead
and tie a length of string to the cable.
11Noting carefully its routing, withdraw the
cable through the bulkhead into the engine
compartment; untie the string, leaving it in
place, when the pedal end of the cable
appears.
Refitting
12Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points.
a)First ensure that the cable is correctly
routed, then draw it through the bulkhead
aperture using the string.
b)Ensure that the bulkhead grommet is
correctly seated.
c)Connect the cable end to the throttle
linkage. Seat the cable outer grommet in
the bracket and pull it through so that the
cable inner wire is just taut when the
throttle linkage is held fully closed. Fit the
clip to secure the cable outer in that
position.
d)Check the throttle operation and cable
adjustment, as described below.
Adjustment
13Refer to Chapter 4A, but for “carburettor”
substitute “throttle body”. If applicable, the air
box must be removed.
14First check that the pedal is at a
convenient height for the driver. This setting
can be adjusted by turning the pedal stop
screw (it will be necessary to remove the
footwell trim panel to reach the screw).
Remember that the pedal must be left with
enough travel for the throttle valve to open
fully. Also check that the pedal pivot bushes
are in good condition.
15Returning to the engine compartment,
check that the linkage pivots and balljoints are
unworn and operate smoothly throughout
their full travel. When the throttle valve is fully
closed and the throttle pedal is released, there
should be hardly any free play in the cable
inner wire.
16If adjustment is required, extract the clip
securing the cable outer seating grommet in
the cable bracket and replace it in the
appropriate groove, so that the cable outer is
repositioned correctly.17With an assistant operating the throttle
pedal from the driver’s seat. Check that when
the pedal is fully depressed, the throttle valve
is fully open. If there is insufficient pedal travel
to permit this, unscrew the pedal stop screw,
then reset the cable at the throttle linkage.
18When cable adjustment is correct, refit all
disturbed components.
20Idle mixture - checking and
adjustment
3
Note: No adjustment of idle mixture is
possible on models fitted with a catalytic
converter, and no adjustment of idle speed is
possible with the Motronic system. Refer to
Section 2 before proceeding. A tachometer
and an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be
required to carry out adjustment on models
fitted with Motronic systems.
Multec systems
Checking
1If the CO level reading is incorrect (or if any
other symptom is encountered which causes
you to suspect a fault) always check first that
the air cleaner element is clean. Check also
that the spark plugs are in good condition and
correctly gapped. Ensure that the engine
breather and vacuum hoses are clear and
undamaged. Check that there are no leaks in
the air inlet trunking. Check the throttle body
and the manifolds for damage. Ensure that the
throttle cable is correctly adjusted (see Section
19). If the engine is running very roughly, check
the compression pressures (Chapter 2A) and
remember the possibility that one of the
hydraulic tappets might be faulty, producing
an incorrect valve clearance. Check also that
all wiring is in good condition, with securely
fastened connectors. Check that the fuel filter
has been renewed at the recommended
intervals and that the exhaust system is
entirely free of air leaks which might upset the
operation of the catalytic converter, if fitted.
Adjustment
2The idle mixture is controlled entirely by the
ECU and there is no provision at all for any
form of adjustment. Furthermore, accurate
checking is not possible without the use of
Vauxhall test equipment in conjunction with a
good-quality, carefully calibrated exhaust gas
analyser.
3While it may be possible for owners with
access to such analysers to check the
mixture, the results should be regarded as no
more than a rough guide. If the mixture is
thought to be incorrect, the vehicle should be
taken to a Vauxhall dealer for checking. If the
CO level exceeds the specified value the
system must be checked thoroughly by an
experienced mechanic using the Vauxhall test
equipment until the fault is eliminated and the
defective component renewed.
Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models 4B•9
19.7 Throttle cable end grommet in
bracket on inlet manifold19.4 Disconnecting the throttle cable end
from the throttle valve lever - SOHC model

4Where applicable, the only test of the
catalytic converter’s efficiency is to check the
level of CO in the exhaust gas. This is
measured at the tailpipe with the engine
running (with no load) at 3000 rpm. If the CO
level exceeds the specified value, the Vauxhall
test equipment must be used to check the
entire fuel injection/ignition system. If the
engine is mechanically sound, once the
system has been eliminated, the fault must lie
in the converter, which must be renewed.
Motronic systems
Checking
5In order to check the idle mixture adjustment,
the following conditions must be met:
a)The engine must be at normal operating
temperature
b)All electrical consumers (cooling fan,
heater blower, headlamps etc.) must be
switched off
c)The spark plug gaps must be correctly
adjusted see Chapter 1
d)The throttle cable free play must be
correctly adjusted - see Section 19
e)The air inlet trunking must be free from
leaks, and the air filter must be clean
Adjustment
6Connect a tachometer and an exhaust gas
analyser to the vehicle in accordance with the
equipment manufacturer’s instructions.
7Start the engine and turn it at 2000 rpm for
approximately 30 seconds, then allow it to
idle. Check that the idle speed is within the
specified limits. No adjustment of idle speed
is possible, and if outside the specified limits,
the problem should be referred to a dealer.
8With the idle speed correct, check the CO
level in the exhaust gas. If it is outside the
specified limits, adjust by means of the idle
mixture adjustment screw in the airflow meter
or air mass meter, as applicable. In
production, the screw is covered by a
tamperproof plug; ensure that no local or
national laws are being broken before
removing the plug.9If the cooling fan cuts in during the
adjustment procedure, stop the adjustments,
and proceed when the cooling fan stops.
10When the idle mixture is correctly set,
stop the engine and disconnect the test
equipment.
Simtec systems
11Adjustment is not possible on these
models.
21Fuel pressure regulator -
removal and refitting
3
Note:Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
SOHC models (except Multec systems)
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2For improved access, remove the idle
speed adjuster as described in Section 22.
Disconnect the wiring harness housing from
the fuel injectors and move it to one side,
taking care not to strain the wiring. Pull up on
the wiring harness housing, and compress the
wiring plug retaining clips to release the
harness housing from the injectors.
3Position a wad of rag beneath the pressure
regulator, to absorb the fuel that will be
released as the regulator is removed.
4Loosen the clamp screws and disconnect
the fuel hoses from the regulator. Be prepared
for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions.
5Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the top
of the pressure regulator and withdraw the
regulator.
SOHC models (with Multec system)
6Depressurise the fuel system, as described
in Section 8.
7Remove the air box. Refer to Section 5, if
necessary.
8Disconnect the battery earth lead.9Noting the dowels locating the cover,
carefully unscrew the fuel pressure regulator
cover Torx-type screws (size TX 15). Ensure
that the spring does not fly out as the cover is
released. Remove the cover spring seat,
spring and diaphragm, noting how each is
fitted (see illustration).
10The diaphragm must be renewed
whenever the cover is disturbed. If any of the
regulator’s other components are worn or
damaged, they can be renewed only as part
of the throttle body upper section assembly.
DOHC models
11Disconnect the battery negative lead.
12Disconnect the wiring plug from the air
mass meter. Recover the sealing ring.
13Loosen the clamp screw securing the air
trunking to the right-hand end of the air mass
meter.
14Using an Allen key or hexagon bit,
unscrew the four bolts securing the air box to
the throttle body. Lift the air box from the
throttle body and disconnect the hose from
the base of the air box, then withdraw the air
box/air mass meter assembly.
15Disconnect the two breather hoses from
the rear of the camshaft cover, and move
them to one side.
16Disconnect the wiring plug from the
throttle position sensor.
17Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the top
of the pressure regulator (see illustration).
18Position a wad of rag beneath the
regulator, to absorb the fuel that will be
released as the regulator is removed.
19Using a spanner or socket, and working
underneath the regulator, unscrew the four
Torx type securing bolts, then withdraw the
regulator. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and
take adequate fire precautions.
Refitting
20Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that all wires, pipes and hoses are correctly
reconnected. Note that on DOHC models, the
4B•10Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models
21.17 Fuel pressure regulator (arrowed) - DOHC model21.9 Fuel pressure regulator cover
A Locating dowels B Mounting screws

9Remove the two securing screws and
withdraw the sensor from the throttle body.
Refitting
10Refitting is a reversal of removal.
11On Motronic M4.1 system models, before
tightening the securing screws, adjust the
position of the sensor as follows:
a)Turn the sensor body anti-clockwise until
resistance is felt, then tighten the securing
screws.
b)When the throttle valve is opened, an
audible click should be noticeable from
the sensor, and similarly, this should be
repeated as the throttle valve is closed.
c)If necessary, adjust the position of the
sensor until a click is heard just as the
throttle valve begins to open.
12On M 1.5 systems, no adjustment is
required when refitting, as the sensor can only
be fitted in one position.
24Throttle valve potentiometer
- removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the wiring plugs at the inlet air
temperature sensor and at the hot film mass
airflow meter.
3Undo and remove the bolts securing the air
box to the throttle body. Remove the air box
complete with air trunking.4Disconnect the wiring plug at the throttle
valve potentiometer, then undo the two
screws and withdraw the potentiometer from
the throttle body.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
25Airflow meter (if fitted) -
removal and refitting
3
Note: If the air funnel is removed, a new
gasket must be used on refitting. The airflow
meter securing bolts must be coated with
thread-locking compound on refitting
Removal
1Remove the air cleaner assembly, as
described in Section 4.
2Unscrew the single bolt securing the airflow
meter to the front of the air cleaner cover (see
illustration).
3Unscrew the four securing bolts from inside
the air cleaner cover, recover the two
reinforcing plates, and withdraw the airflow
meter (see illustration).
4If desired, the air funnel can be unclipped
from inside the air cleaner cover.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
6If the air funnel has been removed, refit it
using a new gasket.7Coat the threads of the four airflow meter
securing bolts that fit inside the air cleaner
cover with thread-locking compound.
26Air mass meter (if fitted) -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the wiring plug from the air
mass meter. Recover the sealing ring (see
illustration).
3Loosen the clamp screws from the air
trunking on either side of the air mass meter,
then disconnect the air trunking and withdraw
the meter.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
inspect the air mass meter wiring plug sealing
ring and renew if necessary.
27Hot film mass airflow meter -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the wiring plug at the hot film
mass airflow meter and at the inlet air
temperature sensor.
3Remove the upper part of the air cleaner
together with the inlet air trunking and air flow
meter.
4Release the hose clamps and separate the
airflow meter from the inlet air trunking, noting
the position of the trunking with the air flow
meter. If there is any external damage replace
the unit.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal but ensure
that the air trunking is connected to the
airflow meter as shown (see illustration). Also
ensure that the marks on the air trunking and
air box are aligned as shown (see
illustration).
4B•12Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models
25.2 Airflow meter securing bolt (arrowed)
- SOHC model
26.2 Recover the sealing ring from the air
mass meter wiring plug - DOHC model
27.5B Correct attachment of air trunking to
hot film mass airflow meter - Motronic M2.8
Arrows indicate air trunking to airflow meter
alignment notches
27.5A Hot film mass airflow meter
attachments - Motronic M2.8
1 Hot film mass airflow meter wiring plug
2 Inlet air temperature sensor wiring plug
25.3 Airflow meter securing bolts and
reinforcing plates, and air funnel