1988 OPEL CALIBRA park assist

Wiring diagrams 12•57
12
Key to wiring diagrams for 1992 and later models (continued)
NoDescriptionTrackNoDescriptionTrack
S20.2High pressure compressor switch925
S20.3High pressure blower compressor switch939
S21Fog lamps switch555 to 557
S22Rear fog lamp switch549 to 551
S24Air conditioning blower switch904 to 911
S29Coolant temperature switch118, 137, 357, 942, 957, 972
S30Left front heating mat switch660 to 662
S31Rear left door contact switch591
S32Rear right door contact switch592
S33Traction control switch1130, 1131
S37Window lifter switch868 to 894
S37.1Left window lifter switch868 to 870
S37.2Right window lifter switch886 to 888
S37.3Left rear window lifter switch874 to 876
S37.4Right rear window lifter switch892 to 894
S37.5Safety switch872, 873
S37.6Window anti-jam off switch890
S37.7Automatic window lifter control877 to 882
S39Left rear door window lifter switch878 to 880
S40Right rear door window lifter switch896 to 898
S41Driver door burglary locking switch800 to 802
S42Passenger door central locking switch805
S44Throttle valve switch316, 317
S47Driver door contact switch593, 594
S52Hazard warning switch569 to 573
S53First gear identification switch372
S55Right front heating mat switch664 to 666
S57Sun roof switch1170 to 1183
S63Computer switch
S63.1Function reset switch856
S63.2Clock hours adjustment switch857
S63.3Function select switch858
S63.4Clock minute adjustment switch859
S64Horn switch672
S68Outside mirror switch assy
S68.1Outside mirror adjustment switch638 to 640, 758 to 762
S68.3Left/right outside mirror switch637 to 641, 759 to 763
S68.4Parking position switch765
S82Washer fluid minimum capacity control switch736
S882 stage coolant temperature switch120, 121, 137, 138, 430, 431
S89Seat belt switch998
S93Coolant minimum capacity control switch737
S95Engine oil minuimum capacity control switch738
S98Headlamps levelling switch691 to 693
S99ZV driver door window lifter switch865
S100ZV passenger door window lifter switch883
S101Compressor switch926 to 928
S102Circulation switch918 to 920
S103Transmission temperature switch350
S104Kickdown switch493
S105Start-up assistance switch495 to 497
S106Economy power program switch492
S109Acceleration revolution pressure switch921
S115Coolant temperature switch487, 488
S116Stop lamp switch564, 565
S117Hydraulic pressure switch346
S120Engine compartment hood (anti-theft warning unit) switch835
S127Calibra tail gate central locking switch831
S128Coolant temperature switch936,937S131Defroster lever limit switch918
U2Computer851 to 862
U4ABS hydroaggregate1102 to 1122, 1146 to 1164
U4.1Pump motor relay1102, 1103, 1146, 1147
U4.2Solenoid valves relay1104, 1105, 1148, 1149
U4.3Pump motor1102,1146
U4.4Diode1105,1149
U4.5Left front solenoid valve1109,1153
U4.6Right front solenoid valve1111,1155
U4.7Rear axle solenoid valve1113,1157
U4.8ABS control unit1106 to 1122, 1150 to 1164
U4.9Solenoid valves plug1109 to 1113, 1153 to 1157
U5Check control display
U5.1Washer fluid minimum capacity telltale741
U5.2Oil minimum capacity telltale740
U5.3Coolant minimum capacity telltale739
U5.4Tail light & low beam telltale738
U5.5Stop light failure telltale737
U5.6Front brake lining telltale736
U12Filter heater
U12.1Temperature switch426, 452
U12.2Filter heater427, 453
U13Automatic transmission
U13.1Solenoid valve (shift 1)481
U13.2Solenoid valve (shift 2)482
U13.3Solenoid valve (lock up control)483
U13.4Solenoid valve (pressure control)484
U17Roof antenna amplifier795
V1Brake fluid test bulb diode712
V8Air conditioning compressor diode926
X1 onWiring connectorsVarious
X10Anti theft warning unit code837
X13Diagnostic link164, 165, 189, 190, 226, 270, 271, 258, 259,
309, 310, 370, 371, 343, 344, 473, 474, 573, 725, 836, 837, 860,
861, 1012, 1013, 1069, 1070, 1118, 1119, 1136, 1162, 1163
X15Octane number plug157, 158, 182, 183, 225, 226,
257, 258, 284, 285
X54Ignition coding plug310, 311, 1014, 1070, 1071
Y1Air conditioning compressor clutch925
Y4Headlamps washer solenoid valve620
Y5Fuel solenoid valve410, 445
Y7Fuel injection valves287 to 294,320 to 327,
384 to 391,1025 to 1032,1078 to 1089
Y10Hall sensor ignition distributor153 to 158
Y11Hot start solenoid valve375, 376
Y12Charging pressure control changeover valve377, 378
Y18Exhaust gas recirculation valve1093
Y23Inductive sensor distributor201 to 208
Y24Distributor (inductive discharge)
Y25Acceleration revolution solenoid valve155, 177
Y30Cold start acceleration solenoid valve 448
Y32Fuel injection valve212, 245
Y33Ignition distributor175 to 177, 268 to 270, 238 to 240,
301 to 303, 360 to 362
Y34Tank ventilation valve293, 331, 332, 379, 380,
1092, 1016, 1017,
Y35Circulation solenoid valve918
Y44Four wheel drive solenoid valve350
Y47Park brake shift lock lifting magnet469

4B
4Clamp the fuel hoses on either side of the
damper, to minimise fuel loss when the hoses
are disconnected.
5Loosen the clamp screws, and disconnect
the fuel hoses from the damper. Be prepared
for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions.
6Unscrew the securing nut, and withdraw
the damper from the bracket.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
8Run the engine and check for leaks on
completion. If leakage is evident; stop the
engine immediately, and rectify the problem
without delay.
19Throttle cable - removal,
refitting and adjustment
3
Removal
1This procedure is basically the same as
described in Chapter 4A, but note the
following.
2Not all models are fitted with an air box.
Ignore references to it, if not applicable.
3For “carburettor” substitute “throttle body”,
and note that the cable bracket is bolted to
the inlet manifold.
4The throttle cable end may connect to a
balljoint on the throttle valve lever, which is
retained by a clip (see illustration).
5If fitted, remove the air box. Refer to
Section 5, if necessary.
6Where fitted, use a pair of needle-nosed
pliers to extract the wire spring clip securing
the cable end balljoint to the throttle linkage.
Prise the cable end off the linkage.
7Withdraw the clip and pull the cable outer
seating grommet out of the cable bracket,
then release the cable as far as the bulkhead
(see illustration).
8Working inside the passenger
compartment, remove the driver’s footwell
trim panel, refer to Chapter 11, if necessary.
9Release the end of the cable’s inner wire
from the “keyhole” fitting at the top of the
throttle pedal by easing back the spring and
prising the cable end out of the slot.10Prise the grommet out of the bulkhead
and tie a length of string to the cable.
11Noting carefully its routing, withdraw the
cable through the bulkhead into the engine
compartment; untie the string, leaving it in
place, when the pedal end of the cable
appears.
Refitting
12Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points.
a)First ensure that the cable is correctly
routed, then draw it through the bulkhead
aperture using the string.
b)Ensure that the bulkhead grommet is
correctly seated.
c)Connect the cable end to the throttle
linkage. Seat the cable outer grommet in
the bracket and pull it through so that the
cable inner wire is just taut when the
throttle linkage is held fully closed. Fit the
clip to secure the cable outer in that
position.
d)Check the throttle operation and cable
adjustment, as described below.
Adjustment
13Refer to Chapter 4A, but for “carburettor”
substitute “throttle body”. If applicable, the air
box must be removed.
14First check that the pedal is at a
convenient height for the driver. This setting
can be adjusted by turning the pedal stop
screw (it will be necessary to remove the
footwell trim panel to reach the screw).
Remember that the pedal must be left with
enough travel for the throttle valve to open
fully. Also check that the pedal pivot bushes
are in good condition.
15Returning to the engine compartment,
check that the linkage pivots and balljoints are
unworn and operate smoothly throughout
their full travel. When the throttle valve is fully
closed and the throttle pedal is released, there
should be hardly any free play in the cable
inner wire.
16If adjustment is required, extract the clip
securing the cable outer seating grommet in
the cable bracket and replace it in the
appropriate groove, so that the cable outer is
repositioned correctly.17With an assistant operating the throttle
pedal from the driver’s seat. Check that when
the pedal is fully depressed, the throttle valve
is fully open. If there is insufficient pedal travel
to permit this, unscrew the pedal stop screw,
then reset the cable at the throttle linkage.
18When cable adjustment is correct, refit all
disturbed components.
20Idle mixture - checking and
adjustment
3
Note: No adjustment of idle mixture is
possible on models fitted with a catalytic
converter, and no adjustment of idle speed is
possible with the Motronic system. Refer to
Section 2 before proceeding. A tachometer
and an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be
required to carry out adjustment on models
fitted with Motronic systems.
Multec systems
Checking
1If the CO level reading is incorrect (or if any
other symptom is encountered which causes
you to suspect a fault) always check first that
the air cleaner element is clean. Check also
that the spark plugs are in good condition and
correctly gapped. Ensure that the engine
breather and vacuum hoses are clear and
undamaged. Check that there are no leaks in
the air inlet trunking. Check the throttle body
and the manifolds for damage. Ensure that the
throttle cable is correctly adjusted (see Section
19). If the engine is running very roughly, check
the compression pressures (Chapter 2A) and
remember the possibility that one of the
hydraulic tappets might be faulty, producing
an incorrect valve clearance. Check also that
all wiring is in good condition, with securely
fastened connectors. Check that the fuel filter
has been renewed at the recommended
intervals and that the exhaust system is
entirely free of air leaks which might upset the
operation of the catalytic converter, if fitted.
Adjustment
2The idle mixture is controlled entirely by the
ECU and there is no provision at all for any
form of adjustment. Furthermore, accurate
checking is not possible without the use of
Vauxhall test equipment in conjunction with a
good-quality, carefully calibrated exhaust gas
analyser.
3While it may be possible for owners with
access to such analysers to check the
mixture, the results should be regarded as no
more than a rough guide. If the mixture is
thought to be incorrect, the vehicle should be
taken to a Vauxhall dealer for checking. If the
CO level exceeds the specified value the
system must be checked thoroughly by an
experienced mechanic using the Vauxhall test
equipment until the fault is eliminated and the
defective component renewed.
Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models 4B•9
19.7 Throttle cable end grommet in
bracket on inlet manifold19.4 Disconnecting the throttle cable end
from the throttle valve lever - SOHC model

Apply a little grease to the threads of the
securing bolt, and tighten it to the specified
torque in the two stages given in the Specifi-
cations. Ensure that the thrustwasher is in
place under the bolt head, and prevent the
crankshaft from turning as during removal.
23Refit the camshaft sprockets. Ensure that
the locating pins on the ends of the camshafts
engage with the holes in the sprockets and
with the sprocket timing marks facing
forwards. Then tighten the securing bolts to
the specified torque in the two stages given in
the Specifications. Prevent the camshafts
from turning as during removal.
24Check the condition of the camshaft
cover rubber gasket and renew if necessary,
then refit the camshaft cover and tighten the
securing bolts (see illustration).
25Refit the HT leads to the spark plugs
(ensuring that they are refitted to their correct
cylinders), then clip the leads to the end of the
camshaft cover. Refit the spark plug cover
and tighten the securing bolts.
26Reconnect the breather hose to the
camshaft cover.
27Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley,
and ensure that the crankshaft pulley and
camshaft sprocket timing marks are still
aligned as described in paragraph 6. Then fit a
new timing belt around the sprockets and
pulleys, starting at the crankshaft sprocket.
28Refit the crankshaft pulley, and tighten the
securing bolts to the specified torque. If
necessary, prevent the crankshaft from
turning as during removal. 29Adjust the timing belt tension, as
described from paragraph 35 onwards.
30Refit the outer timing belt cover, ensuring
that the rubber grommets are in place in the
screw holes, and tighten the securing screws.
31Refit the alternator drivebelt and adjust
the drivebelt tension, as described in Chapter
5.
32Refit the power steering pump drivebelt
and adjust the drivebelt tension, as described
in Chapter 10.
33Refit the air cleaner components as
applicable, referring to Chapter 4B, if
necessary.
34Reconnect the battery negative lead.
Adjustment
Note: The manufacturers specify the use of
special adjustment wrench Vauxhall tool No
KM-666 for adjusting the timing belt tension. If
access to this tool cannot be obtained an
approximate adjustment can be achieved
using the method described in this Section.
However it is emphasised that the vehicle
should be taken to a dealer at the earliest
possible opportunity to have the tension
adjusted using the special tool. Do not drive
the vehicle over any long distance until the
belt tension has been adjusted by a dealer
Approximate adjustment
35No checking of timing belt adjustment is
specified, and the following adjustment
procedure applies to a newly fitted belt. The
adjustment must be carried out with the
engine cold.36With the timing belt cover removed and
the tensioner pulley bolt slackened, ensure
that the TDC marks on the camshaft
sprockets and the crankshaft pulley are
aligned as described in paragraph 6. If
necessary, turn the crankshaft to achieve
alignment.
37Have an assistant press the tensioner
pulley against the belt until the belt can just be
twisted through 45°, using moderate pressure
with the thumb and forefinger, on the longest
belt run between the exhaust camshaft
sprocket and the belt idler pulley.
38Have the assistant hold the tensioner
pulley in position, and tighten the tensioner
pulley bolt to the specified torque in the two
stages given in the Specifications.
39Turn the crankshaft clockwise through
two complete revolutions, and check that,
with the crankshaft pulley TDC mark aligned
with the pointer on the rear timing belt cover,
the TDC marks on the camshaft sprockets are
still aligned with the notches in the camshaft
cover.
40Proceed as described in paragraphs 30 to
34, inclusive.
41Have the belt tension adjusted by a
Vauxhall dealer using the manufacturer’s
special tool at the earliest opportunity.Adjustment using Vauxhall special
tool (KM-666)
42Proceed as described in paragraphs 35
and 36.
43Fit the special tool KM-666 to the belt
tensioner pulley mounting plate, in
accordance with the tool manufacturer’s
instructions.
44Working anti-clockwise from the TDC
mark on the exhaust camshaft sprocket, mark
the seventh tooth on the sprocket (see
illustration).
45Turn the crankshaft clockwise until this
tooth is aligned with the TDC notch in the
camshaft cover. The crankshaft must be
turned evenly and without jerking, to prevent
the timing belt from jumping off the sprockets
and pulleys.
46Tighten the tensioner pulley bolt to the
specified torque in the two stages given in the
Specifications.
47Remove the special tool.
DOHC engine procedures 2B•5
4.21 Belt tensioner pulley and spacer
sleeve. Note that smaller diameter of
spacer sleeve fits against pulley
4.44 Working anti-clockwise from the TDC
mark on the exhaust camshaft sprocket,
mark the seventh tooth on the sprocket4.24 Tightening a camshaft cover securing
bolt
4.19B Rear timing belt cover lower right-
hand securing bolt4.19A Timing belt outer cover screw upper
stud (1) and rear belt cover upper
securing bolts (2)
2B

the cylinder head above the camshaft(s)
through a hose. From here the gases are
drawn into the inlet manifold/throttle body (as
applicable) and/or the air box on the
carburettor (where applicable), where they are
re-burnt with fresh air/fuel mixture, hence
reducing harmful exhaust emissions.
Maintenance
3Certain models have a mesh filter inside the
camshaft cover, which should be cleaned in
paraffin if clogging is evident (see
illustration).
4On high mileage vehicles, particularly when
regularly used for short journeys, a jelly-like
deposit may be evident inside the crankcase
ventilation system hoses. If excessive
deposits are present, the relevant hose(s)
should be removed and cleaned.
5Periodically inspect the system hoses for
security and damage, and renew as
necessary. Note that damaged or loose hoses
can cause various engine running problems
that can be difficult to trace.
6The crankcase breather/dipstick tube can
be unbolted from the cylinder block after
disconnecting the hose. Use a new gasket
when refitting.
3Compression test -
description
3
Description
1If engine performance is poor, or if misfiring
occurs which cannot be attributed to the
ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly, it can give warning of
trouble on a high mileage engine before any
other symptoms become apparent.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully
charged, and the spark plugs must be
removed. The help of an assistant will also be
required.
3Disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the coil LT (“+15”) wire. Fit the
compression tester to No 1 cylinder spark
plug hole.4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6The difference in pressure between any two
cylinders should be no more than 1.0 bar
(14.5 lbf/in2). If the pressure in any cylinder is
low, pour a teaspoonful of clean engine oil
into the spark plug hole, and repeat the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
cylinder bore or piston ring wear was
responsible for the pressure loss. No
improvement suggests that leaking or burnt
valves, or a blown head gasket may be to
blame.
8A low reading from two adjacent cylinders
is almost certainly due to the head gasket
leaking between them.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT wire.
4Major operations possible
with the engine in the vehicle
1The following operations may be carried out
without removing the engine from the vehicle:
a)Removal and refitting of oil pressure relief
valve (see Section 30)
b)Removal and refitting of timing belt and
sprockets
c)Removal and refitting of camshaft housing
(SOHC engines)
d)Removal and refitting of camshaft(s)
e)Removal and refitting of cylinder head
f)Removal and refitting of sump
g)Removal and refitting of oil pump
h)Removal and refitting of
piston/connecting rod assemblies
i)Removal and refitting of flywheel
j)Renewal of crankshaft front oil seal
k)Removal and refitting of
engine/transmission mountings
Note: It is possible to renew the crankshaft
rear oil seal with the engine in the vehicle, but
this requires the use of special tools, and is a
difficult operation, due to the lack of working
space. For this reason, this operation is
described with the engine removed from the
vehicle.
5Major operations requiring
engine removal
The engine must be removed from the
vehicle to carry out the following operations:
a)Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings
b)Removal and refitting of the crankshaft
c)Renewal of crankshaft rear oil seal
6Method of engine removal
The engine may be removed either on its
own, or together with the transmission. Unless
work is also necessary on the transmission, it
is recommended that the engine is removed
on its own. In either case, the engine or
engine/transmission assembly must be lifted
out through the top of the engine
compartment, using a hoist and lifting tackle.
7Engine - removal and refitting,
(leaving transmission in car)
4
Note: A hoist and lifting tackle will be required
for this operation.If the torque converter is
removed (even partially) from the transmission,
a considerable amount of the fluid inside it will
leak out. To prevent this, when prising the
engine from the transmission and removing it,
be careful to keep the torque converter
pressed firmly into the transmission. If the
transmission is to be removed for some time,
retain the torque converter by bolting a strip of
metal across the bellhousing mating surface.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet (Chapter 11).
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
4Drain the cooling system, remove the
radiator and transmission fluid cooler hoses
(automatic models), as described in Chapter 3.
5Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1,
remove the oil filter and discard, safely.
6Remove the air cleaner (or air cleaner
cover), the air cleaner trunking, and the air
box from the carburettor or throttle body (as
applicable), referring to Chapter 4A or 4B, if
necessary. On carburettor models,
disconnect the hot air hose from the exhaust
manifold hot air shroud and the air cleaner,
and remove the hose. On automatic models,
disconnect additional wiring, hoses, etc., from
the carburettor, as described in Chapter 4A.
7Remove the alternator, as described in
Chapter 5.
8On models with power steering, remove the
hydraulic pump, as described in Chapter 10.
9Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
from the inlet manifold.
10Disconnect the throttle cable from the
throttle lever and the bracket on the
carburettor or inlet manifold, as applicable.
11On carburettor models, disconnect the
coolant hoses from the automatic choke
housing, and disconnect the wiring from the
automatic choke heater and the choke
pull-down solenoid (see illustrations). Also
disconnect the air box vacuum pipe from the
carburettor.
2A•8SOHC engine procedures
2.3 Crankcase ventilation filter removed
from camshaft cover -
1.6 litre engine

1General description
Engine cooling is achieved by a
conventional pump-assisted system, in which
the coolant is pressurised. The system
consists of a radiator, a coolant pump driven
by the engine timing belt, an electric cooling
fan, a thermostat, an expansion tank, and
connecting hoses. Hoses also carry coolant to
and from the heater matrix, which provides
heat for the ventilation and heating system.
The system works in the following way.
Cold coolant from one side of the radiator,
which is mounted at the front of the engine
compartment, passes to the coolant pump,
which forces the coolant through the coolant
passages in the cylinder block and cylinder
head. The coolant absorbs heat from the
engine, and then returns to the radiator
through the heater matrix. As the coolant
flows across the radiator it is cooled, and the
cycle is repeated.
Air flows through the radiator, to cool the
coolant as a result of the vehicle’s forward
motion. However, if the coolant temperature
exceeds a given figure, a
temperature-sensitive switch in the radiator
switches on the electric fan, to increase the
airflow through the radiator. The fan only
operates when necessary, with a consequent
reduction in noise and energy consumption.
To reduce the time taken for the engine to
warm up when starting from cold, the
thermostat, located in the cylinder head
outlet, prevents coolant flowing to the radiator
until the temperature has risen sufficiently.
Instead, the outflow from the cylinder head
bypasses the radiator, and is redirected
around the engine. When the temperature
reaches a given figure, the thermostat opens,
to allow coolant to flow to the radiator. The
thermostat is operated by the expansion of a
temperature sensitive wax capsule.
An expansion tank is incorporated in the
system, to allow for coolant expansion. The
system is topped up through a filler cap on
the expansion tank.
Note that later models may be fitted with
self-tensioning spring clamps to secure the
cooling system (including heater) hoses.
These clamps can be released by squeezing
together their free ends using a large pair of
self-grip pliers or similar so that the clamp can
be moved up the hose, clear of the union.
Check that the clamp is securely seated, and
check for leaks on reassembly.
2Cooling system -draining
2
1With the vehicle parked on level ground,
remove the expansion tank filler cap. If the
engine is warm, cover the filler cap with a
thick cloth, and unscrew the cap slowly, to
gradually relieve the system pressure. Take
care to avoid scalding by steam or coolant
escaping from the pressurised system.
2On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, with reference to Chapter 11.
3Position a container beneath the radiator
bottom hose connection, then slacken the
hose clip and ease the hose from the radiator
stub. If the hose joint has not been disturbed
for some time, it will be necessary to
manipulate the hose to break the joint. Allow
the coolant to drain into the container.
4As no cylinder block drain plug is fitted, and
the radiator bottom hose may be situated
halfway up the radiator, the system cannot be
drained completely. Care should therefore be
taken when refilling the system to maintain
antifreeze strength.
5If the coolant has been drained for a reason
other than renewal, then provided it is clean
and less than two years old, it can be re-used.
6If the coolant has been drained for renewal,
and is badly contaminated, the coolant
system should be flushed as described in
Section 4. As the system cannot be drained
completely, it is advisable to flush the system
whenever the coolant is renewed, to minimise
the impurities remaining in the system.
3Cooling system -flushing
2
1If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if
the antifreeze mixture has become diluted,
then in time the cooling system will gradually
lose efficiency, as the coolant passages
become restricted due to rust, scale deposits
and other sediment. To restore coolant
system efficiency, it is necessary to flush the
system clean.
2The radiator should be flushed
independently of the engine, to avoid
unnecessary contamination.
3To flush the radiator, disconnect the top
hose at the radiator, then insert a garden hose
into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of
clean water through the radiator, and continue
flushing until clean water emerges from the
radiator bottom outlet (the bottom hose
should have been disconnected to drain the
system). If after a reasonable period, the water
still does not run clear, the radiator can be
flushed with a good proprietary cleaning
agent. It is important that the manufacturer’s
instructions are followed carefully. If the
contamination is particularly bad, insert the
hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and flush
the radiator in reverse.
4To flush the engine, continue as follows.
1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except
C16 NZ2)
5Remove the thermostat as described in
Section 9, then temporarily refit the
thermostat cover.
6With the radiator top and bottom hoses
disconnected from the radiator, insert a
garden hose into the radiator bottom hose.
Direct a flow of clean water through the
engine, and continue flushing until clean water
emerges from the radiator top hose.
7On completion of flushing, refit the
thermostat, and reconnect the hoses.
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre
models
8Remove the thermostat and cover
assembly, as described in Section 9.
9With the radiator bottom hose
disconnected from the radiator, insert a
garden hose into the radiator bottom hose.
Direct a flow of clean water through the
engine, and continue flushing until clean water
emerges from the thermostat housing. It is
advisable to place a sheet of plastic under the
thermostat housing to deflect water away
from the engine and surrounding components
during the flushing process.
10On completion of flushing, refit the
thermostat and cover assembly, reconnect
the hoses and remove the sheet of plastic.
4Cooling system -filling
2
1Before attempting to fill the cooling system,
make sure that all hoses and clips are in good
condition, and that the clips are tight. Note
that an antifreeze mixture must be used all
year round, to prevent corrosion of the alloy
engine components -refer to Section 5.
2On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16
NZ2), disconnect the wire and unscrew the
coolant temperature sender from the inlet
manifold.
3Remove the expansion tank cap, and fill the
system by slowly pouring the coolant into the
expansion tank to prevent air locks from
forming.
4If the coolant is being renewed, begin by
pouring in a couple of pints of water, followed
by the correct quantity of antifreeze (see
Section 5), then top-up with more water.
5On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16
NZ2), refit the coolant temperature sender
when coolant free of air bubbles emerges
from the orifice in the inlet manifold.
6Top-up the coolant level to the “COLD” (or
“KALT”) mark on the expansion tank, then refit
the expansion tank cap.
7Start the engine and run it until it reaches
normal operating temperature, then stop the
engine and allow it to cool.
8Check for leaks, particularly around
disturbed components. Check the coolant
3•2Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
When renewing any hoses,
use a little soapy water as a
lubricant, or soften the hose
in hot water. Do not use oil or
grease, as this may attack the rubber.

Engine
m mEngine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m mEngine rotates, but will not start
m mEngine difficult to start when cold
m mEngine difficult to start when hot
m mStarter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement
m mEngine starts, but stops immediately
m mEngine idles erratically
m mEngine misfires at idle speed
m mEngine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mEngine hesitates on acceleration
m mEngine stalls
m mEngine lacks power
m mEngine backfires
m mOil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
m mEngine runs-on after switching off
m mEngine noises
Cooling system
m
mOverheating
m mOvercooling
m mExternal coolant leakage
m mInternal coolant leakage
m mCorrosion
Fuel and exhaust systems
m
mExcessive fuel consumption
m mFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
m mExcessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
Clutch
m
mPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
m mClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m mClutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle
speed)
m mJudder as clutch is engaged
m mNoise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
Manual transmission
m
mNoisy in neutral with engine running
m mNoisy in one particular gear
m mDifficulty engaging gears
m mJumps out of gear
m mVibration
m mLubricant leaks
Automatic transmission
m
mFluid leakage
m mTransmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m mGeneral gear selection problems
m mTransmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully
depressed
m mEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
m mTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
Driveshafts
m mClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m mVibration when accelerating or decelerating
Braking system
m
mVehicle pulls to one side under braking
m mNoise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
m mExcessive brake pedal travel
m mBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m mExcessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m mJudder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
m mBrakes binding
m mRear wheels locking under normal braking
Suspension and steering systems
m
mVehicle pulls to one side
m mWheel wobble and vibration
m mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during
braking
m mWandering or general instability
m mExcessively stiff steering
m mExcessive play in steering
m mLack of power assistance
m mTyre wear excessive
Electrical system
m
mBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine
running
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
m mLights inoperative
m mInstrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m mHorn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mElectric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mCentral locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to
the recommended service schedules should not have to use this section
of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that,
provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or
renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare.
Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but
develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even
thousands of miles. Those components that do occasionally fail without
warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle.
With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begininvestigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms). However, will be none the wiser if the
fault recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than
was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc. - and remember that failure of components such as fuses
or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.
REF•12Fault Finding
Introduction