1988 OPEL CALIBRA low oil pressure

Oil pick-up pipe bracket to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
Oil pick-up pipe to oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
Oil pipes to radiator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2216
Oil pressure switch to oil pump:
1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3022
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4030
Oil pressure relief valve to oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3022
Oil pump cover to oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
Oil pump to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
Oxygen sensor to exhaust manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3022
Power steering pump bracket to support:
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1813
Power steering pump to support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Right engine mounting to subframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6548
Shackle to alternator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Starter to cylinder block (M10) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4533
Starter to cylinder block (M12) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6044
Sump:
1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1511
Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5541
Support to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3526
Temperature sender to cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2015
Thermostat housing:
1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1511
Timing belt tensioner to oil pump:
1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5541
Timing belt cover to oil pump/camshaft housing:
1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
Timing belt drive gear to crankshaft:
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13096
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle tighten by between 40º to 50º
Transmission to engine (M10) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4533
Transmission to engine (M12) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6044
1General description
General
The engine is of four-cylinder, in-line single
or double overhead camshaft type (depending
on model), mounted transversely at the front
of the vehicle.
The crankshaft runs in five shell-type
bearings, and the centre bearing incorporates
a thrust bearing shell to control crankshaft
endfloat.
The connecting rods are attached to the
crankshaft by horizontally split shell-type
big-end bearings. On single overhead
camshaft (SOHC) models, the pistons are
attached to the connecting rods by gudgeon
pins, which are an interference fit in the
connecting rod small-end bore. The
aluminium alloy pistons are fitted with three
piston rings: two compression rings and an oil
control ring.
The camshaft on SOHC engines is driven
from the crankshaft by a toothed composite
rubber belt. Each cylinder has two valves (oneinlet and one exhaust), operated through
rocker arms that are supported at their pivot
ends by hydraulic self-adjusting valve lifters
(tappets).
The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by a single valve spring, and operate in
guides pressed into the cylinder head.
A gear-type oil pump is located in a housing
attached to the front of the cylinder block, and
is driven directly from the crankshaft. A
full-flow type oil filter is fitted.
The distributor is driven directly from the
end of the camshaft. On carburettor models,
the mechanical fuel pump is operated from
the front end of the camshaft. The coolant
pump is located at the front of the cylinder
block, and is driven by the timing belt.
Chapter 2A describes the SOHC engine
repair procedures. Many repairs and specifi-
cations to the DOHC engine are similar to the
2.0 litre SOHC. However where they differ,
details can be found in Chapter 2B.
Engine identification codes -
general
Before ordering spare parts, or carrying out
any repair or overhaul operations on the
engine, it is essential to identify the exactengine type being worked on. Later engines,
although outwardly similar in appearance,
often have significant differences in repair
procedures, even though they may be of the
same displacement and model year.
The following sub-Sections in this Chapter
are mainly specific to engine type, as will be
noted from the sub-Section headings. Check
the engine identification code first, which is
located on a horizontal surface on the exhaust
manifold side of the cylinder block, at the
distributor end. On later engines, the code is
on the cylinder block-to-transmission flange,
next to the engine oil dipstick.
2Crankcase ventilation
system - description and
maintenance
2
Description
1A crankcase ventilation system is fitted to
all models, but the systems differ in detail
depending on the model concerned.
2Oil fumes and blow-by gases (combustion
gases that have passed by the piston rings)
are drawn from the crankcase into the area of
SOHC engine procedures 2A•7
2A

the cylinder head above the camshaft(s)
through a hose. From here the gases are
drawn into the inlet manifold/throttle body (as
applicable) and/or the air box on the
carburettor (where applicable), where they are
re-burnt with fresh air/fuel mixture, hence
reducing harmful exhaust emissions.
Maintenance
3Certain models have a mesh filter inside the
camshaft cover, which should be cleaned in
paraffin if clogging is evident (see
illustration).
4On high mileage vehicles, particularly when
regularly used for short journeys, a jelly-like
deposit may be evident inside the crankcase
ventilation system hoses. If excessive
deposits are present, the relevant hose(s)
should be removed and cleaned.
5Periodically inspect the system hoses for
security and damage, and renew as
necessary. Note that damaged or loose hoses
can cause various engine running problems
that can be difficult to trace.
6The crankcase breather/dipstick tube can
be unbolted from the cylinder block after
disconnecting the hose. Use a new gasket
when refitting.
3Compression test -
description
3
Description
1If engine performance is poor, or if misfiring
occurs which cannot be attributed to the
ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly, it can give warning of
trouble on a high mileage engine before any
other symptoms become apparent.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully
charged, and the spark plugs must be
removed. The help of an assistant will also be
required.
3Disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the coil LT (“+15”) wire. Fit the
compression tester to No 1 cylinder spark
plug hole.4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6The difference in pressure between any two
cylinders should be no more than 1.0 bar
(14.5 lbf/in2). If the pressure in any cylinder is
low, pour a teaspoonful of clean engine oil
into the spark plug hole, and repeat the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
cylinder bore or piston ring wear was
responsible for the pressure loss. No
improvement suggests that leaking or burnt
valves, or a blown head gasket may be to
blame.
8A low reading from two adjacent cylinders
is almost certainly due to the head gasket
leaking between them.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT wire.
4Major operations possible
with the engine in the vehicle
1The following operations may be carried out
without removing the engine from the vehicle:
a)Removal and refitting of oil pressure relief
valve (see Section 30)
b)Removal and refitting of timing belt and
sprockets
c)Removal and refitting of camshaft housing
(SOHC engines)
d)Removal and refitting of camshaft(s)
e)Removal and refitting of cylinder head
f)Removal and refitting of sump
g)Removal and refitting of oil pump
h)Removal and refitting of
piston/connecting rod assemblies
i)Removal and refitting of flywheel
j)Renewal of crankshaft front oil seal
k)Removal and refitting of
engine/transmission mountings
Note: It is possible to renew the crankshaft
rear oil seal with the engine in the vehicle, but
this requires the use of special tools, and is a
difficult operation, due to the lack of working
space. For this reason, this operation is
described with the engine removed from the
vehicle.
5Major operations requiring
engine removal
The engine must be removed from the
vehicle to carry out the following operations:
a)Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings
b)Removal and refitting of the crankshaft
c)Renewal of crankshaft rear oil seal
6Method of engine removal
The engine may be removed either on its
own, or together with the transmission. Unless
work is also necessary on the transmission, it
is recommended that the engine is removed
on its own. In either case, the engine or
engine/transmission assembly must be lifted
out through the top of the engine
compartment, using a hoist and lifting tackle.
7Engine - removal and refitting,
(leaving transmission in car)
4
Note: A hoist and lifting tackle will be required
for this operation.If the torque converter is
removed (even partially) from the transmission,
a considerable amount of the fluid inside it will
leak out. To prevent this, when prising the
engine from the transmission and removing it,
be careful to keep the torque converter
pressed firmly into the transmission. If the
transmission is to be removed for some time,
retain the torque converter by bolting a strip of
metal across the bellhousing mating surface.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet (Chapter 11).
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
4Drain the cooling system, remove the
radiator and transmission fluid cooler hoses
(automatic models), as described in Chapter 3.
5Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1,
remove the oil filter and discard, safely.
6Remove the air cleaner (or air cleaner
cover), the air cleaner trunking, and the air
box from the carburettor or throttle body (as
applicable), referring to Chapter 4A or 4B, if
necessary. On carburettor models,
disconnect the hot air hose from the exhaust
manifold hot air shroud and the air cleaner,
and remove the hose. On automatic models,
disconnect additional wiring, hoses, etc., from
the carburettor, as described in Chapter 4A.
7Remove the alternator, as described in
Chapter 5.
8On models with power steering, remove the
hydraulic pump, as described in Chapter 10.
9Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
from the inlet manifold.
10Disconnect the throttle cable from the
throttle lever and the bracket on the
carburettor or inlet manifold, as applicable.
11On carburettor models, disconnect the
coolant hoses from the automatic choke
housing, and disconnect the wiring from the
automatic choke heater and the choke
pull-down solenoid (see illustrations). Also
disconnect the air box vacuum pipe from the
carburettor.
2A•8SOHC engine procedures
2.3 Crankcase ventilation filter removed
from camshaft cover -
1.6 litre engine

12Disconnect the pressure sensor vacuum
pipe from the carburettor (see illustration).
13Remove the coolant hose(s) from the inlet
manifold and/or throttle body, as applicable.
14Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel
pump and vapour separator on carburettor
models or from the fuel pipes at the
right-hand side of the engine compartment on
other models. Be prepared for fuel spillage,
and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the
open ends of the pipes and hoses, to prevent
dirt ingress and further fuel leakage (see
illustrations).
15Disconnect all relevant wiring connections
and plugs, and remove the fuel injection
wiring harness. Pull up on the wiring harness
housing, and compress the wiring plug
retaining clips to release the harness housing
from the fuel injectors (see illustration).16Disconnect the heater coolant hoses from
the coolant gallery at the rear of the cylinder
block.
17Disconnect the wiring from the following
components (where applicable):
a)Starter motor
b)Distributor (note HT lead positions)
c)Oil pressure switch
d)Oil temperature switch
e)TDC sensor
f)Oil level sensor
g)Knock sensor
h)Coolant temperature sensor
i)Temperature gauge sender
18Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected, and that they are positioned
clear of the engine.
19Remove the front section of the exhaust
system, as described in Chapter 4C.
20Unbolt and remove the bellhousing cover
plate (see illustration).
21Remove the clutch (if applicable), as
described in Chapter 6. On automatic models,
use chalk or a felt-tip pen to mark the
relationship of the torque converter to the
flexplate before unbolting the torque converter.
Refer to note at the beginning of this Section
and to Chapter 7B for further information.
22Remove the crankshaft pulley. Some
pulleys are secured by four bolts, which must
be unscrewed using an Allen key or hexagon
bit. Unscrew each of the three bolts in turn
and remove them. On other engines, the
pulley is secured by a single bolt, which alsosecures the crankshaft sprocket. On manual
transmission models, if the engine is in the
vehicle, the crankshaft can be prevented from
turning by having an assistant engage first
gear and depress the brake pedal.
Alternatively, the flywheel (or flexplate, on
automatics), ring gear teeth can be jammed,
through the bellhousing cover aperture using
a large screwdriver, or similar tool. Access to
the crankshaft pulley is most easily obtained
through the right-hand wheel arch, after
removing the roadwheel.
23Attach a hoist and lifting gear to the
engine lifting brackets on the cylinder head,
and support the weight of the engine.
24Unscrew and remove two of the three
upper engine-to-transmission bolts,
accessible from the engine compartment,
leaving one fastened for safety.
25Unbolt the right-hand engine mounting
from the body and from the cylinder block,
and withdraw the mounting bracket.
26Unscrew and remove the four lower
engine-to-transmission bolts.
27Support the transmission using a trolley
jack and interposed block of wood. Remove
the last upper transmission bolt.
28Manipulate the engine as necessary to
separate it from the transmission. Note that
the transmission locates on dowels in the
cylinder block.
29Carefully raise the hoist, and lift the
engine from the vehicle, taking care not to
damage any of the surrounding components
in the engine compartment.
SOHC engine procedures 2A•9
7.12 Disconnect the pressure sensor
vacuum pipe from the carburettor -
1.6 litre model
7.20 Removing the transmission
bellhousing cover plate7.15 Removing the fuel injection wiring
harness -
2.0 litre SOHC model7.14B Fuel hose-to-pipe connections at
right-hand side of engine compartment -
2.0 litre SOHC model
7.14A Disconnecting a fuel hose from the
fuel pump - 1.6 litre model
7.11B . . .and disconnect the choke
heater/pull-down solenoid wiring plug -
1.6 litre model7.11A Disconnect the coolant hoses from
the automatic choke housing . . .
2A

14Working under the vehicle, unscrew and
remove the two nuts securing the
engine/transmission rear mounting to the front
subframe, and the three bolts securing the
mounting bracket to the transmission, then
withdraw the mounting bracket (see
illustrations).
15Carefully swing the engine/transmission
assembly across the engine compartment as
necessary, to allow the assembly to be lifted
vertically from the vehicle by raising the hoist.
Take care not to damage any of the
surrounding components in the engine
compartment.
Separation
16With the engine/transmission assembly
removed, support the assembly on blocks of
wood positioned on a workbench, or failing
that, on a clean area of the workshop floor.
17Clean away any external dirt using
paraffin or a water-soluble solvent and a stiff
brush.
18Unbolt and remove the transmission
bellhousing cover plate.
19Ensure that both engine and transmission
are adequately supported, then unscrew and
remove the engine-to-transmission bolts.
20Carefully withdraw the transmission from
the engine, ensuring that the weight of the
transmission is not allowed to hang on the
input shaft while it is engaged with the clutch
friction disc. Note that the transmission
locates on dowels positioned in the cylinder
block.
21On automatic models unbolt the
transmission bellhousing cover plate (three
bolts), then use chalk or a felt-tip pen to mark
the relationship of the torque converter to the
flexplate before unbolting the torque
converter. Note:If the torque converter is
removed (even partially) from the transmission,
a considerable amount of the fluid inside it will
leak out. To prevent this, when prising the
transmission off its locating dowels and
removing it, be careful to keep the torque
converter pressed firmly into the transmission.
If the transmission is to be removed for some
time, retain the torque converter by bolting a
strip of metal across the bellhousing mating
surface. Applying a spanner to the crankshaft
pulley/sprocket bolt, rotate the crankshaft
until the first bolt appears, then use ascrewdriver or similar to jam the flexplate ring
gear teeth to prevent it from rotating as the
bolt is unscrewed. Unscrew each of the three
bolts in turn and remove them.
Reconnection
22Before beginning the refitting operations,
check that the two original bolts that secured
the left-hand transmission rubber mounting to
the vehicle body rotate freely in their threaded
bores in the body. If necessary, re-cut the
threaded bores using an M10 x 1.25 mm tap.
23Where applicable, if the clutch assembly
has been removed from the flywheel, it will
prove easier to refit after the transmission has
been refitted.
24On automatics, if any fluid was spilled from
the torque converter, be careful to refill it as
much as possible. Wipe clean the converter’s
spigot to prevent damage to the transmission’s
input shaft oil seal as the converter is installed,
and ensure that the converter engages
correctly on the fluid pump shaft.
25If the transmission has been renewed, be
careful to flush clean the radiator fluid cooler
passages. Vauxhall recommend the use of
low-pressure compressed air, but this will
require great care to avoid deforming the
radiator.
26Be very careful to ensure that all
components are scrupulously clean, to avoid
the risk of dirt getting into the system.
27Use an M10 x 1.25 bottoming tap to clean
the threads in the torque converters threaded
bosses and ensure that new bolts are
available for reassembly, where applicable.
28Tighten all nuts and bolts to their specified
torque wrench settings.
29Refer also to Section 7, paragraphs 35
and 36.
30Carefully offer the transmission to the
engine until the bellhousing is located on the
dowels in the cylinder block, then refit the
engine-to-transmission bolts, and tighten
them to the specified torque.
31Refit the transmission bellhousing cover
plate.
Refitting
32Working under the vehicle, refit the rear
engine/transmission mounting to the
transmission, using new locking plates under
the bolt heads, and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque.
33Fit the two bolts securing the engine/
transmission rear mounting to the front
subframe, but do not fully tighten at this stage.
34Fit the right-hand engine mounting
bracket to the cylinder block, and tighten the
securing bolts to the specified torque.
35Fit new right-hand engine
mounting-to-body bolts, but do not fully
tighten them at this stage.
36Fit the left-hand transmission mounting
bracket to the transmission, and tighten the
securing bolts to the specified torque.
37Fit new left-hand transmission
mounting-to-body bolts, and tighten them to
the specified torque.
38Tighten the right-hand engine mounting-
to-body bolts and the engine/transmission
rear mounting-to-front subframe bolts to their
specified torques, then remove the lifting
tackle and hoist from the engine.
39Where applicable, the clutch can now be
fitted, and the transmission input shaft can be
pressed into engagement with the splined hub
of the clutch friction disc, (see Chapter 5).
40Reconnect the inboard ends of the
driveshafts to the differential, with reference
to the relevant paragraphs of Chapter 8, and
using new snap rings.
41Refit the front section of the exhaust
system, as described in Chapter 4C.
42Refit the crankshaft pulley, using a
reversal of the removal procedure described
in Section 7, paragraph 22, and tighten the
securing bolt(s) to the specified torque.
43On automatic models, connect the wires
to the various switches, solenoids and
sensors. Replace the transmission breather
hose and oxygen sensor (if fitted).
44Reconnect the transmission earth strap,
and tighten the securing nut.
45Lower the vehicle to the ground.
46Reconnect the speedometer cable to the
transmission, and tighten the securing sleeve.
47Reconnect the reversing lamp wiring.
48On manual transmission models, refit the
clutch cable to the bracket on the
transmission casing, then reconnect the cable
to the release lever, and adjust the cable as
described in Chapter 6. Ensure that the cable
is routed as noted during removal.
49Refit the gear selector linkage, as
described in Chapter 7A, if applicable.
50Proceed as described in Section 7,
paragraphs 41 to 52 inclusive.
51Top-up the transmission oil level, as
described in Chapters 7A and 7B.
52Adjust the selector cable on completion,
and refill the transmission with fluid (see
above).
53Reconnect the battery negative lead.
54Refer to Section 37
SOHC engine procedures 2A•11
8.14B Rear engine/transmission mounting-
to-transmission bolts (arrowed)8.14A Rear engine/transmission
mounting-to-front subframe nuts
2A
If a tap is not available, cut
two slots into the threads of
one of the old flywheel bolts
and use the bolt to remove
the locking compound from the threads.

9Engine and transmission
mountings - renewal
3
Note: New left and right-hand
engine/transmission mounting-to-body bolts
must be used on refitting
1The engine/transmission assembly is
suspended in the engine compartment on
three mountings, two of which are attached to
the transmission, and one to the engine.
Right-hand mounting
2If not already done, apply the handbrake,
then raise the front of the vehicle, and support
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and
Vehicle Support”)..
3Attach lifting tackle and a hoist to the
engine lifting brackets on the cylinder head,
and support the weight of the engine.
4Working under the vehicle, unbolt the
engine mounting bracket from the cylinder
block, and unbolt the mounting block from the
body, then withdraw the bracket/mounting
assembly (see illustration).
5Unbolt the mounting block from the
bracket.
6Fit the new mounting block to the bracket,
and tighten the securing bolts to the specified
torque.
7Refit the mounting bracket to the cylinder
block, and tighten the securing bolts to the
specified torque.
8Fit new mounting block-to-body bolts, and
tighten them to the specified torque.
9Disconnect the lifting tackle and hoist from
the engine.
10Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Left-hand mounting
11Proceed as described in paragraphs 2
and 3.
12Working under the vehicle, unbolt the
mounting block from the mounting bracket
and the body (see illustration).13Before fitting the new mounting block,
check that the original engine bolts which
secured the mounting block to the body
rotate freely in their threaded bores in the
body. If necessary, re-cut the threaded bores
using an M10 x 1.25 mm tap.
14Fit the new mounting block to the bracket,
and tighten the securing bolts to the specified
torque.
15Fit new mounting block-to-body bolts,
and tighten them to the specified torque.
16Proceed as described in paragraphs 9
and 10.
Rear mounting
17Proceed as described in paragraphs 2
and 3.
18Working under the vehicle, unbolt the
mounting block from the front subframe and
the mounting bracket.
19Fit the new mounting block to the
subframe and mounting bracket, and tighten
the securing bolts to the specified torque.
20Proceed as described in paragraphs 9
and 10.
10Engine dismantling and
reassembly - general
4
General
1Ideally, the engine should be mounted on a
dismantling stand, but if this is not available,
stand the engine on a strong bench, at a
comfortable working height. Failing this, the
engine will have to be stripped down on the
floor.
2Cleanliness is most important, and if theengine is dirty, it should be cleaned with
paraffin in an upright position.
3Avoid working with the engine directly on a
concrete floor, as grit presents a real source
of trouble.
4If the engine oil appears extremely dirty or
contaminated, avoid inverting the engine until
the sump has been removed. This will prevent
any contaminated “sludge” from entering the
oilways.
5As parts are removed, clean them in a
paraffin bath. Do not immerse parts with
internal oilways in paraffin, as it is difficult to
remove, usually requiring a high pressure
hose. Clean oilways with nylon pipe cleaners.
6It is advisable to have containers available
to hold small items, to prevent loss and
confusion when refitting.
7Always obtain complete sets of gaskets
when the engine is being dismantled. Keep
the old gaskets as they can be used as
patterns to make replacements should new
gaskets not be available.
8Where possible, refit nuts, bolts and
washers to their locations after removal of the
relevant components, as this helps protect
the threads, and will also prove helpful during
reassembly.
9Retain unserviceable components, to
compare them with the new components
supplied.
10Many of the engine components are
secured using socket-headed “Torx” or
“Allen” bolts, and tools will be required to
remove and refit such bolts.
11Read through each relevant Section of
this Chapter carefullybeforebeginning work,
to ensure that any special tools that may be
required are available. Many components
(gaskets, oil seals, and certain bolts) must be
renewed on reassembly; where applicable,
obtain the required new components before
starting work.
12Before beginning a complete strip of the
engine, the following ancillary components
can be removed once the engine has been
removed from the vehicle:
2A•12SOHC engine procedures
9.4 Right-hand engine mounting
1 Mounting block-to-body bolts
2 Mounting bracket-to-cylinder block bolts9.12 Left-hand engine/transmission mounting
1 Mounting block-to-body bolts
2 Mounting block-to-mounting bracket bolts
If a tap is not available, cut
two slots into the threads of
one of the old flywheel bolts
and use the bolt to remove
the locking compound from the threads.

a)Inlet and exhaust manifolds (where
applicable)
b)Starter motor
c)Rear coolant gallery and hoses
d)Oil pressure switch
e)Oil temperature switch (where applicable)
f)Oil level sensor (where applicable)
g)Knock sensor (where applicable)
h)TDC sensor (where applicable)
i)Distributor components
j)Fuel pump (where applicable)
k)Thermostat/housing (N 16 NZ2, 1.8 and
2.0 litre models)
l)Power steering pump and mounting
bracket (where applicable)
m)Alternator mounting bracket
n)Engine lifting brackets
o)Dipstick/crankcase breather tube
p)Inlet manifold mounting bracket (where
applicable)
13To ensure maximum life, with minimum
trouble, from a rebuilt engine, not only must
everything be correctly assembled, but it must
also be spotlessly clean. All oilways and
coolant passages must be clear, and all
washers must be fitted in their original
positions. Oil all bearings and other moving
surfaces thoroughly with clean engine oil
during assembly.
14Before assembly begins, renew any bolts
or studs with damaged threads.
15Obtain a torque wrench, an angle-torque
gauge, sockets and bits, an oil can, clean
lint-free rag, and a set of engine gaskets and
oil seals, together with a new oil filter.16If they have been removed, new cylinder
head bolts, flywheel bolts, big-end bearing
cap bolts and main bearing cap bolts will also
be required.
17On completion of reassembly, refit the
applicable ancillary components listed in
paragraph 12.
18Follow procedure shown in Section 37.
11Timing belt and sprockets
(without automatic tensioner) -
removal, refitting and adjustment
3
Note: A two-legged puller may be required to
remove the crankshaft sprocket on N 16 NZ2,
1.8 and 2.0 litre models.Some of the later 1.4
and 1.6 litre engines, identifiable by the
squared-off top surfaces of the timing belt
covers, are fitted with spring-loaded auto-matic timing belt tensioners to ensure correct
belt tensioning on assembly.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2On models with power steering, remove the
pump drivebelt, see Chapters 1 and 10.
3Remove the alternator drivebelt, as
described in Chapter 5.
4On C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models,
disconnect the wiring from the temperature
gauge sender.
5Release the securing clips (or hexagon-
headed screws, if fitted), and remove the main
outer timing belt cover, then unclip the smaller
outer timing belt cover from the coolant pump.
Where applicable, three screws retain the lower
(small) outer cover to the rear cover, the fourth
secures the tensioner (see illustrations).
6On 1.6 litre models with power steering,
remove the power steering pump, as
described in Chapter 10.
7Turn the crankshaft using a socket or
spanner on the crankshaft sprocket bolt, until
the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket is
aligned with the notch in the rear timing belt
cover, and the notch in the crankshaft pulley
is aligned with the pointer on the rear timing
belt cover (see illustrations). Note that on 1.4
litre engine there are two notches in the
crankshaft pulley, representing 5°and 10°
BTDC, and the 10°BTDC notch should be
aligned with the pointer (see illustration).
8Loosen the three coolant pump securing
bolts (see illustration), and turn the pump to
relieve the tension in the timing belt, then slide
the belt from the camshaft sprocket.
SOHC engine procedures 2A•13
11.5C Timing belt lower (small) outer
cover screws (A), tensioner screw (B),
ignition timing fixed reference mark (C)
11.8 Loosening a coolant pump securing
bolt - 2.0 litre engine11.7C Crankshaft pulley 10°BTDC notch
aligned with pointer on rear timing belt
cover - 1.4 litre engine11.7B . . .and notch in crankshaft pulley
aligned with pointer on rear timing belt
cover - 2.0 litre engine
11.7A Camshaft sprocket TDC mark
aligned with notch in rear timing belt
cover . . .
11.5B . . .and the smaller cover from the
coolant pump - 2.0 litre engine11.5A Remove the main outer timing belt
cover . . .
2A

32Release the securing clips and remove the
main outer timing belt cover, then unclip the
smaller outer timing belt cover from the
coolant pump.
33Turn the crankshaft through at least
quarter of a turn clockwise using a socket or
spanner on the crankshaft sprocket bolt.
34If the special gauge is available, place the
locked gauge at the centre of the belt run
between the coolant pump and the camshaft
sprocket. The gauge should locate on the
timing belt (see illustration).
35Slowly release the operating lever on the
gauge, then lightly tap the gauge two or three
times, and note the reading on the scale (see
illustration).
36If the reading is not as specified, loosen
the three coolant pump securing bolts, and
rotate the pump in the required direction to
achieve the desired reading on the gauge.
Rotate the pump clockwise to increase the
belt tension, or anti-clockwise to decrease the
tension.
37Lightly tighten the coolant pump securing
bolts.
38Remove the tensioning gauge, and turn
the crankshaft through one full turn clockwise.
39Re-check the belt tension as described in
paragraphs 4 and 5.
40If the tension is not as specified, repeat
paragraphs 6 to 9 inclusive until the desired,
consistent, reading is obtained.
41On completion of adjustment, remove the
checking gauge, tighten the coolant pump
bolts to the specified torque, and refit the
outer timing belt covers.
42If the special checking gauge is not
available, the timing belt tension can be
checked approximately by twisting the belt
between the thumb and forefinger, at the
centre of the run between the coolant pump
and the camshaft sprocket. It should just be
possible to twist the belt through 90°using
moderate pressure (see illustration). If
adjustment is necessary, continue as
described previously in this Section, but have
the belt tension checked by a Vauxhall dealer
using the special gauge at the earliest
opportunity. If in doubt, err on the tight side
when adjusting the tension, as if the belt is too
slack, it may jump on the sprockets, which
could result in serious engine damage.12Timing belt and tensioner 1.4
and 1.6 models (not C16 NZ2) -
removal, refitting and adjustment
3
Removal
1Remove the timing belt outer covers as
described in Section 11, paragraphs 1 to 5.
2To lock the tensioner in its slackest position
for removal and refitting, move the tensioner
indicator arm clockwise until the holes align in
the baseplate and the arm. Then insert a
close-fitting pin, such as a drift, to retain them
(see illustration). The tensioner can then be
unbolted, or the belt can be removed.
3Check that the tensioner roller rotates
smoothly and easily, with no noises or signs
of free play, roughness or notchy movement.
Check also that there is no sign of physical
wear or damage. If the tensioner is faulty in
any way, or if there is any reason to doubt the
continued efficiency of its spring, the
complete assembly must be renewed.
Refitting
4On refitting, ensure that the tensioner
baseplate lug engages with the hole in the oil
pump housing, then tighten the tensioner bolt
securely and remove the locking pin; the
tensioner should be quite free to move.
5Set the belt tension as described below.
Adjustment
6Whenever the timing belt is disturbed,
whether during belt renewal or any otherengine overhaul work, its tension must be set
on assembly - note that this procedure must
only be carried out on a cold engine.
7It is assumed that the belt has been
removed and refitted, i.e. that the crankshaft
pulley and timing belt outer covers are
removed, that the tensioner is unlocked (see
above) and that No 1 cylinder is in its firing
position (just before TDC on the compression
stroke). Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley
bolt and remove the spark plugs so that the
crankshaft can be rotated easily.
8Note also that turning the coolant pump
with the precision required is a great deal
easier if a special spanner (Kent-Moore Part
No KM-421-A) is used. Alternatives are
available from manufacturers such as
Sykes-Pickavant (Part No 031300) (see
illustration).
9With the belt refitted and correctly routed
(see Section 11), ensure that the punch mark
on the crankshaft sprocket and the stamped
line on the camshaft sprocket are aligned with
their respective timing belt rear cover notches
(see illustrations).
10Tighten the belt by slackening its three
securing bolts, and turning the coolant pump
clockwise until the holes align in the tensioner
indicator arm and baseplate (the tensioner
indicator arm will then have moved fully
clockwise to its stop). Lightly tighten the
pump securing bolts, just sufficiently to
prevent the pump from moving.
11Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft
pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft smoothly
2A•16SOHC engine procedures
11.34 Tension blade KM-510-A correctly
positioned on timing belt. Belt must pass
through points A, B and C - SOHC engines11.42 Checking timing belt tension by
twisting belt through 90º between thumb
and forefinger
12.8 Using a special spanner to adjust the
timing belt by moving the coolant pump12.2 Using a close-fitting drift to lock the
tensioner. Note baseplate lug engaged in
oil pump housing (arrowed)
11.35 Note the reading on the scale of the
tension gauge -
1.6 litre engine

28Recover the cylinder head gasket and
discard it.
Refitting
29Clean the cylinder head and block mating
faces, and the camshaft housing and cylinder
head mating faces by careful scraping. Take
care not to damage the cylinder head and
camshaft housing, which are made of light
alloy and are easily scored. Cover the coolant
passages and other openings with masking
tape or rag to prevent dirt and carbon falling
in. Mop out all the oil from the bolt holes; if oil
is left in the holes, hydraulic pressure could
crack the block when the bolts are refitted.
30If desired, the cylinder head can be
dismantled and inspected as described in
Sections 22 and 23, and the camshaft
housing can be dismantled as described in
Section 18.31Begin refitting by locating a new gasket
on the block so that the word “OBEN” or
“TOP” can be read from above (see
illustrations).
32With the mating faces scrupulously clean,
locate the cylinder head on the block so that
the positioning dowels engage in their holes.
33Refit the hydraulic valve lifters, thrust
pads and rocker arms to the cylinder head in
their original positions. Liberally oil the valve
lifter bores, and if new lifters are being fitted
initially immerse each one in a container of
clean engine oil and compress it (by hand)
several times to charge it. Lubricate the
contact faces of the valve lifters, thrust pads
and rocker arms with a little molybdenum
disulphide grease (see illustration).
34Temporarily refit the crankshaft sprocket,
and ensure that the timing marks are still
positioned as they were before the timing belt
was removed (see Section 11).35Apply sealing compound (Vauxhall part
No 90094714, or equivalent) to the cylinder
head top mating face (see illustration), then
refit the camshaft housing to the cylinder
head.
36Fit the new cylinder head bolts, ensuring
that the washers are in place under their
heads, and screw the bolts in by hand as far
as possible (see illustration).
37Tighten the bolts working from the inside
outwards in a spiral pattern as shown (see
illustration). Tighten the bolts in the four
stages given in the Specifications -i.e. tighten
all bolts to the Stage 1 torque, then tighten all
bolts to Stage 2 and so on (see illustrations).
38Further refitting is a reversal of the
removal procedure, remembering the
following points.
39Ensure that the HT leads are refitted to
their correct cylinders.
SOHC engine procedures 2A•21
20.25B . . . and their thrust pads from the
cylinder head - 1.6 litre engine
20.35 Apply sealing compound to the
cylinder head top mating face20.33 Lubricate the valve lifter contact
faces with molybdenum disulphide grease20.31B Cylinder head gasket correctly
located over dowel in cylinder block
20.31A Cylinder head gasket “Oben/TOP”
markings20.27 Lifting the cylinder head from the
cylinder block - 1.6 litre engine20.26 Lift the hydraulic valve lifters from
the cylinder head - 1.6 litre engine
20.25A Lift the rocker arms . . .20.24 Lifting the camshaft housing from
the cylinder head - 1.6 litre engine
2A