1988 OPEL CALIBRA clutch

14Working under the vehicle, unscrew and
remove the two nuts securing the
engine/transmission rear mounting to the front
subframe, and the three bolts securing the
mounting bracket to the transmission, then
withdraw the mounting bracket (see
illustrations).
15Carefully swing the engine/transmission
assembly across the engine compartment as
necessary, to allow the assembly to be lifted
vertically from the vehicle by raising the hoist.
Take care not to damage any of the
surrounding components in the engine
compartment.
Separation
16With the engine/transmission assembly
removed, support the assembly on blocks of
wood positioned on a workbench, or failing
that, on a clean area of the workshop floor.
17Clean away any external dirt using
paraffin or a water-soluble solvent and a stiff
brush.
18Unbolt and remove the transmission
bellhousing cover plate.
19Ensure that both engine and transmission
are adequately supported, then unscrew and
remove the engine-to-transmission bolts.
20Carefully withdraw the transmission from
the engine, ensuring that the weight of the
transmission is not allowed to hang on the
input shaft while it is engaged with the clutch
friction disc. Note that the transmission
locates on dowels positioned in the cylinder
block.
21On automatic models unbolt the
transmission bellhousing cover plate (three
bolts), then use chalk or a felt-tip pen to mark
the relationship of the torque converter to the
flexplate before unbolting the torque
converter. Note:If the torque converter is
removed (even partially) from the transmission,
a considerable amount of the fluid inside it will
leak out. To prevent this, when prising the
transmission off its locating dowels and
removing it, be careful to keep the torque
converter pressed firmly into the transmission.
If the transmission is to be removed for some
time, retain the torque converter by bolting a
strip of metal across the bellhousing mating
surface. Applying a spanner to the crankshaft
pulley/sprocket bolt, rotate the crankshaft
until the first bolt appears, then use ascrewdriver or similar to jam the flexplate ring
gear teeth to prevent it from rotating as the
bolt is unscrewed. Unscrew each of the three
bolts in turn and remove them.
Reconnection
22Before beginning the refitting operations,
check that the two original bolts that secured
the left-hand transmission rubber mounting to
the vehicle body rotate freely in their threaded
bores in the body. If necessary, re-cut the
threaded bores using an M10 x 1.25 mm tap.
23Where applicable, if the clutch assembly
has been removed from the flywheel, it will
prove easier to refit after the transmission has
been refitted.
24On automatics, if any fluid was spilled from
the torque converter, be careful to refill it as
much as possible. Wipe clean the converter’s
spigot to prevent damage to the transmission’s
input shaft oil seal as the converter is installed,
and ensure that the converter engages
correctly on the fluid pump shaft.
25If the transmission has been renewed, be
careful to flush clean the radiator fluid cooler
passages. Vauxhall recommend the use of
low-pressure compressed air, but this will
require great care to avoid deforming the
radiator.
26Be very careful to ensure that all
components are scrupulously clean, to avoid
the risk of dirt getting into the system.
27Use an M10 x 1.25 bottoming tap to clean
the threads in the torque converters threaded
bosses and ensure that new bolts are
available for reassembly, where applicable.
28Tighten all nuts and bolts to their specified
torque wrench settings.
29Refer also to Section 7, paragraphs 35
and 36.
30Carefully offer the transmission to the
engine until the bellhousing is located on the
dowels in the cylinder block, then refit the
engine-to-transmission bolts, and tighten
them to the specified torque.
31Refit the transmission bellhousing cover
plate.
Refitting
32Working under the vehicle, refit the rear
engine/transmission mounting to the
transmission, using new locking plates under
the bolt heads, and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque.
33Fit the two bolts securing the engine/
transmission rear mounting to the front
subframe, but do not fully tighten at this stage.
34Fit the right-hand engine mounting
bracket to the cylinder block, and tighten the
securing bolts to the specified torque.
35Fit new right-hand engine
mounting-to-body bolts, but do not fully
tighten them at this stage.
36Fit the left-hand transmission mounting
bracket to the transmission, and tighten the
securing bolts to the specified torque.
37Fit new left-hand transmission
mounting-to-body bolts, and tighten them to
the specified torque.
38Tighten the right-hand engine mounting-
to-body bolts and the engine/transmission
rear mounting-to-front subframe bolts to their
specified torques, then remove the lifting
tackle and hoist from the engine.
39Where applicable, the clutch can now be
fitted, and the transmission input shaft can be
pressed into engagement with the splined hub
of the clutch friction disc, (see Chapter 5).
40Reconnect the inboard ends of the
driveshafts to the differential, with reference
to the relevant paragraphs of Chapter 8, and
using new snap rings.
41Refit the front section of the exhaust
system, as described in Chapter 4C.
42Refit the crankshaft pulley, using a
reversal of the removal procedure described
in Section 7, paragraph 22, and tighten the
securing bolt(s) to the specified torque.
43On automatic models, connect the wires
to the various switches, solenoids and
sensors. Replace the transmission breather
hose and oxygen sensor (if fitted).
44Reconnect the transmission earth strap,
and tighten the securing nut.
45Lower the vehicle to the ground.
46Reconnect the speedometer cable to the
transmission, and tighten the securing sleeve.
47Reconnect the reversing lamp wiring.
48On manual transmission models, refit the
clutch cable to the bracket on the
transmission casing, then reconnect the cable
to the release lever, and adjust the cable as
described in Chapter 6. Ensure that the cable
is routed as noted during removal.
49Refit the gear selector linkage, as
described in Chapter 7A, if applicable.
50Proceed as described in Section 7,
paragraphs 41 to 52 inclusive.
51Top-up the transmission oil level, as
described in Chapters 7A and 7B.
52Adjust the selector cable on completion,
and refill the transmission with fluid (see
above).
53Reconnect the battery negative lead.
54Refer to Section 37
SOHC engine procedures 2A•11
8.14B Rear engine/transmission mounting-
to-transmission bolts (arrowed)8.14A Rear engine/transmission
mounting-to-front subframe nuts
2A
If a tap is not available, cut
two slots into the threads of
one of the old flywheel bolts
and use the bolt to remove
the locking compound from the threads.

25Flywheel -removal, inspection
and refitting
4
Note: New flywheel securing bolts must he
used on refitting. Certain models are fitted
with a ‘Pot type’ flywheel. Although, it has a
deeply recessed surface for the clutch disc,
the operations below are the same.
Removal
1If not already done, remove the clutch,
(Chapter 6), and the starter motor, (Chapter 5).
2If the engine is in the vehicle, remove the
clutch release bearing and its guide sleeve, as
described in Chapter 6.
3Although the flywheel bolt holes are offset
so that the flywheel can only be fitted in one
position, it will make refitting easier if
alignment marks are made between the
flywheel and the end of the crankshaft.
4Prevent the flywheel from turning by
jamming the ring gear teeth using a large
screwdriver or similar tool. Access is most
easily obtained through the starter motor
aperture if the engine is in the vehicle.
5Unscrew the securing bolts, and remove
the flywheel (see illustration). Take care, as
the flywheel is heavy!
Inspection
6With the flywheel removed, it can be
inspected as follows.
7If the teeth on the flywheel starter ring are
badly worn, or if some are missing, then it will
be necessary to remove the ring and fit a new
one.
8The old ring can be split with a cold chisel,
after making a cut with a hacksaw blade
between two gear teeth. Take great care not
to damage the flywheel during this operation,
and use eye protectors always. Once the ring
has been split, it will spread apart and can be
lifted from the flywheel.
9The new ring gear must be heated to 180 to
230°C (356 to 446°F) and unless facilities for
heating by oven or flame are available, leave
the fitting to a dealer or motor engineering
works. The new ring gear must not be
overheated during this work, or the temper of
the metal will be altered.10The ring should be tapped gently down
onto its register, and left to cool naturally -the
contraction of the metal on cooling will ensure
that it is a secure and permanent fit.
11If the clutch friction disc contact surface
of the flywheel is scored, or on close
inspection, show’s evidence of small hairline
cracks (caused by overheating), it may be
possible to have the flywheel surface ground.
This is provided that the overall thickness of
the flywheel is not reduced too much. Consult
a specialist engine repairer and if it is not
possible, renew the flywheel complete.
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
13Align the previously made marks on the
flywheel and crankshaft, and fit new flywheel
securing bolts. Tighten them to the specified
torque in the two stages given in the Specifi-
cations, whilst preventing the flywheel from
turning, as during removal (see illustrations).
14Where applicable, refit the clutch release
bearing, guide sleeve, and the clutch, as
described in Chapter 6.
26Flexplate (automatic
transmission) -removal and
refitting
4
Removal
1Remove the transmission (Chapter 7B).
2Prevent the flexplate from turning by
jamming its ring gear teeth using a large
screwdriver or similar tool.
3Unbolt and remove the flexplate. Examine
the bolts and renew them all as a set if there is
the slightest doubt about their condition.
4The ring gear can be checked, and renewed
if necessary, as described in Section 25.
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. If the bolts are to be re-used, use a
wire brush to clean their threads, apply a few
drops of thread-locking compound (Vauxhall
Part No 90167347, or equivalent) to the
threads of each bolt on refitting. Tighten the
bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.6Refit the transmission, refer to Chapter 7B if
necessary.
27Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
3
Renewal
1Remove the timing belt and the rear timing
belt cover, as described in Section 11.
2Ensure that the Woodruff key is removed
from the end of the crankshaft.
3Punch or drill a small hole in the centre of
the now-exposed oil seal. Screw in a
self-tapping screw, and pull on the screw with
pliers to extract the seal. Several attempts
may be necessary. Be careful not to damage
the sealing face of the crankshaft.
4Clean the oil seal seat with a wooden or
plastic scraper.
5Before fitting the new oil seal, steps must
be taken to protect the oil seal lips from
damage, and from turning back on the
shoulder at the front end of the crankshaft.
Grease the seal lips, and then wind tape
around the end of the crankshaft to form a
gentle taper.
6Tap the seal into position using a large
socket or tube, until the seal is flush with the
outer face of the oil pump housing.
7Refit the rear timing belt cover and the
timing belt tension the timing belt as
described in Section 11.
2A•26SOHC engine procedures
25.13C . . .and then through the
specified angle -
1.6 litre engine25.13B Tighten the flywheel securing bolts
to the specified toque . . .25.13A Tool for locking flywheel fitted to
engine-to-transmission bolt hole -
1.6 litre engine
25.5 Removing the flywheel -
1.6 litre engine

Spare parts are available from many
sources, for example: Vauxhall dealers, other
garages and accessory shops, and motor
factors. Our advice regarding spare part
sources is as follows.
Officially appointed Vauxhall
dealers
This is the best source of parts that are
peculiar to your car and are otherwise not
generally available (e.g. complete cylinder
heads, transmission components, badges,
interior trim, etc.). It is also the only place at
which you should buy parts if your vehicle is
still under warranty -use of non-Vauxhall
components may invalidate the warranty. To
be sure of obtaining the correct parts it willalways be necessary to give the storeman
your car’s vehicle identification number, and if
possible, to take the “old” parts along for
positive identification. Remember that many
parts are available on a factory exchange
scheme -any parts returned should always be
clean! It obviously makes good sense to go
straight to the specialists on your car for this
type of part for they are best equipped to
supply you.
Other garages and accessory
shops
These are often very good places to buy
materials and components needed for the
maintenance of your car (e.g. oil filters, spark
plugs, bulbs, drivebelts, oils and greases,touch-up paint, filler paste, etc.). They also
sell general accessories, usually have
convenient opening hours, charge lower
prices and can often be found not far from
home.
Motor factors
Good factors will stock all the more
important components that wear out
relatively quickly (e.g. clutch components,
pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake
cylinders/pipes/hoses/seals/shoes and pads,
etc.). Motor factors will often provide new or
reconditioned components on a part
exchange basis -this can save considerable
amount of money.
Modifications are a continuing and
unpublished process in vehicle manufacture,
quite apart from major model changes. Spare
parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a
numerical basis, the individual vehicle
numbers being essential to correct identifi-
cation of the component required.
When ordering spare parts, always give as
much information as possible. Quote the car
model, year of manufacture and vehicle iden-
tification and/or engine numbers as
appropriate.The vehicle identification plate is riveted on
top of the front body panel and includes the
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), vehicle
weight information and paint and trim colour
codes.
The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is
given on the vehicle identification plate and is
also stamped into the body floor panel
between the driver’s seat and the door sill
panel; lift the flap in the carpet to see it.
The engine number is stamped on a
horizontal flat located on the exhaust manifoldside of the cylinder block, at the distributor
end.
During 1995, Vauxhall introduced ‘Car
pass’. This is a card, which is issued to the
customer when the car is first bought. It
contains important information, e.g. VIN
number, key number and radio code. It also
includes a special code for diagnostic
equipment, therefore it must be kept in a
secure place and not in the vehicle.
Buying Spare Parts REF•3
The VIN number is also stamped on the
floor next to the drivers seatThe Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
plate (1) and engine number (2)
REF
Vehicle Identification

REF•6Tools and Working Facilities
Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any,
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
will last for many years and prove an
extremely worthwhile investment.
To help the average owner to decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repairtool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaultool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Specialcategory when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance
and minor repair tool kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
MCombination spanners:
Metric - 8 to 19 mm inclusive
MAdjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.)
MSpark plug spanner (with rubber insert) -
petrol models
MSpark plug gap adjustment tool - petrol
models
MSet of feeler gauges
MBrake bleed nipple spanner
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
Cross blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
MCombination pliers
MHacksaw (junior)
MTyre pump
MTyre pressure gauge
MOil can
MOil filter removal tool
MFine emery cloth
MWire brush (small)
MFunnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit
These tools are virtually essential for
anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
motor vehicle, and are additional to those
given in the Maintenance and minor repairlist.
Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
sockets. Although these are expensive, they
will be found invaluable as they are so
versatile - particularly if various drives are
included in the set. We recommend the half-
inch square-drive type, as this can be used
with most proprietary torque wrenches.
The tools in this list will sometimes need to
be supplemented by tools from the Speciallist:
MSockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
previous list (including Torx sockets)
MReversible ratchet drive (for use with
sockets)
MExtension piece, 250 mm (for use with
sockets)
MUniversal joint (for use with sockets)
MTorque wrench (for use with sockets)
MSelf-locking grips
MBall pein hammer
MSoft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
rubber)
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade – Long & sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
MPliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)
MCold chisel - 25 mm
MScriber
MScraper
MCentre-punch
MPin punch
MHacksaw
MBrake hose clamp
MBrake/clutch bleeding kit
MSelection of twist drills
MSteel rule/straight-edge
MAllen keys (inc. splined/Torx type)
MSelection of files
MWire brush
MAxle stands
MJack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
MLight with extension lead
Sockets and reversible ratchet drive
Clutch plate alignment setPiston ring compressorSpline bit set
Valve spring compressor

Tools and Working Facilities REF•7
REF
Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large
range of special tools for hire at modest rates.
The following list contains only those tools
and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references
to these manufacturers’ special tools in the
text of this manual. Generally, an alternative
method of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a dealer.
MValve spring compressor
MValve grinding tool
MPiston ring compressor
MPiston ring removal/installation tool
MCylinder bore hone
MBalljoint separator
MCoil spring compressors (where applicable)
MTwo/three-legged hub and bearing puller
MImpact screwdriver
MMicrometer and/or vernier calipers
MDial gauge
MStroboscopic timing light
MDwell angle meter/tachometer
MUniversal electrical multi-meter
MCylinder compression gauge
MHand-operated vacuum pump and gauge
MClutch plate alignment set
MBrake shoe steady spring cup removal tool
MBush and bearing removal/installation set
MStud extractors
MTap and die set
MLifting tackle
MTrolley jack
Buying tools
Reputable motor accessory shops and
superstores often offer excellent quality tools
at discount prices, so it pays to shop around.
Remember, you don’t have to buy the most
expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear of the very cheap
tools. Beware of ‘bargains’ offered on market
stalls or at car boot sales. There are plenty of
good tools around at reasonable prices, but
always aim to purchase items which meet the
relevant national safety standards. If in doubt,
ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for
advice before making a purchase.
Care and maintenance of tools
Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is
necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used. A simple tool rack on the garage
or workshop wall for items such as
screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store
all normal spanners and sockets in a metal
box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,
meters, etc, must be carefully stored where
they cannot be damaged or become rusty.
Take a little care when tools are used.
Hammer heads inevitably become marked,
and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their
blades from time to time. A little timely
attention with emery cloth or a file will soon
restore items like this to a good finish.
Working facilities
Not to be forgotten when discussing tools
is the workshop itself. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out, a
suitable working area becomes essential.
It is appreciated that many an owner-
mechanic is forced by circumstances to
remove an engine or similar item without the
benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
this, any repairs should always be done under
the cover of a roof.
Wherever possible, any dismantling should
be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
a suitable working height.
Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jaw
opening of 100 mm is suitable for most jobs.
As mentioned previously, some clean dry
storage space is also required for tools, as well
as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up
paints etc, which become necessary.
Another item which may be required, and
which has a much more general usage, is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
mm. This, together with a good range of twist
drills, is virtually essential for fitting
accessories.
Last, but not least, always keep a supply of
old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags
available, and try to keep any working area as
clean as possible.
Stroboscopic timing light Stud extractor setCompression tester
Dial test indicator (“dial gauge”)Micrometer set

Engine
m mEngine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m mEngine rotates, but will not start
m mEngine difficult to start when cold
m mEngine difficult to start when hot
m mStarter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement
m mEngine starts, but stops immediately
m mEngine idles erratically
m mEngine misfires at idle speed
m mEngine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mEngine hesitates on acceleration
m mEngine stalls
m mEngine lacks power
m mEngine backfires
m mOil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
m mEngine runs-on after switching off
m mEngine noises
Cooling system
m
mOverheating
m mOvercooling
m mExternal coolant leakage
m mInternal coolant leakage
m mCorrosion
Fuel and exhaust systems
m
mExcessive fuel consumption
m mFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
m mExcessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
Clutch
m
mPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
m mClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m mClutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle
speed)
m mJudder as clutch is engaged
m mNoise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
Manual transmission
m
mNoisy in neutral with engine running
m mNoisy in one particular gear
m mDifficulty engaging gears
m mJumps out of gear
m mVibration
m mLubricant leaks
Automatic transmission
m
mFluid leakage
m mTransmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m mGeneral gear selection problems
m mTransmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully
depressed
m mEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
m mTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
Driveshafts
m mClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m mVibration when accelerating or decelerating
Braking system
m
mVehicle pulls to one side under braking
m mNoise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
m mExcessive brake pedal travel
m mBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m mExcessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m mJudder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
m mBrakes binding
m mRear wheels locking under normal braking
Suspension and steering systems
m
mVehicle pulls to one side
m mWheel wobble and vibration
m mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during
braking
m mWandering or general instability
m mExcessively stiff steering
m mExcessive play in steering
m mLack of power assistance
m mTyre wear excessive
Electrical system
m
mBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine
running
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
m mLights inoperative
m mInstrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m mHorn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mElectric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mCentral locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to
the recommended service schedules should not have to use this section
of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that,
provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or
renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare.
Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but
develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even
thousands of miles. Those components that do occasionally fail without
warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle.
With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begininvestigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms). However, will be none the wiser if the
fault recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than
was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc. - and remember that failure of components such as fuses
or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.
REF•12Fault Finding
Introduction

MFaulty ignition coil (Chapter 5).
MUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Engine hesitates on acceleration
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Engine stalls
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
MFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MFuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Engine lacks power
MTiming belt incorrectly fitted or tensioned (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
MFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
MBrakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9).
MClutch slipping (Chapter 6).
Engine backfires
MTiming belt incorrectly fitted or tensioned (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine
running
MLow oil level, or incorrect oil grade (Chapter 1).
MFaulty oil pressure warning light switch (Chapter 12).
MWorn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2A).
MHigh engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
MOil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2A).
MOil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2A).
Engine runs-on after switching off
MExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2A).
MHigh engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
MFaulty fuel cut-off solenoid - carburettor models (Chapter 4A).
MFuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models (Chapter 4B).
Engine noises
Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration or
under load
MIgnition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
MIncorrect grade of spark plug (Chapter 1).
MIncorrect grade of fuel (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2A).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Whistling or wheezing noises
MLeaking inlet manifold or carburettor/throttle body gasket
(Chapter 4A or 4B).
MLeaking exhaust manifold gasket or pipe-to-manifold joint
(Chapter 4C).
MLeaking vacuum hose (Chapters 4A, 4B, 4C, 5, 9 and 12).
MBlowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A or 2B).
Tapping or rattling noises
MWorn valve gear or camshaft (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MAncillary component fault (coolant pump, alternator, etc.)
(Chapters 3, 5, etc.).
Knocking or thumping noises
MWorn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less
under load), (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MWorn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under load), (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MPiston slap (most noticeable when cold), (Chapter 2A).
MAncillary component fault (coolant pump, alternator, etc.)
(Chapters 3, 5, etc.).
REF•14Fault Finding
Engine (continued)

Excessive fuel consumption
MAir filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).
MChoke cable incorrectly adjusted, or choke sticking - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MFuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models (Chapter 4B).
MIgnition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
MTyres under-inflated (Chapter 1).
Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour
MDamaged or corroded fuel tank, pipes or connections (Chapter 4A
or 4B).
MCarburettor float chamber flooding (float height incorrect) -
carburettor models (Chapter 4A).
Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
MLeaking exhaust system or manifold joints (Chapters 1 and 4C).
MLeaking, corroded or damaged silencers or pipe (Chapters 1 and 4C).
MBroken mountings causing body or suspension contact (Chapter 1).
Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little
resistance
MBroken clutch cable (Chapter 6).
MIncorrect clutch cable adjustment (Chapter 6).
MBroken clutch release bearing or fork (Chapter 6).
MBroken diaphragm spring in clutch pressure plate (Chapter 6).
Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears).
MIncorrect clutch cable adjustment (Chapter 6).
MClutch disc sticking on transmission input shaft splines (Chapter 6).
MClutch disc sticking to flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 6).
MFaulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).
MClutch release mechanism worn or incorrectly assembled (Chapter 6).
Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with no
increase in vehicle speed).
MIncorrect clutch cable adjustment (Chapter 6).
MClutch disc linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).MClutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6).
MFaulty pressure plate or weak diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).
Judder as clutch is engaged
MClutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6).
MClutch disc linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).
MClutch cable sticking or frayed (Chapter 6).
MFaulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).
MWorn or loose engine or transmission mountings (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MClutch disc hub or transmission input shaft splines worn (Chapter 6).
Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
MWorn clutch release bearing (Chapter 6).
MWorn or dry clutch pedal bushes (Chapter 6).
MFaulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).
MPressure plate diaphragm spring broken (Chapter 6).
MBroken clutch disc cushioning springs (Chapter 6).
Fault Finding REF•15
REF
Overheating
MInsufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1).
MThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
MRadiator core blocked, or grille restricted (Chapter 3).
MElectric cooling fan or thermoswitch faulty (Chapter 3).
MPressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).
MIgnition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
MInaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).
MAirlock in cooling system (Chapter 1).
Overcooling
MThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
MInaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).
External coolant leakage
MDeteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapter 1).
MRadiator core or heater matrix leaking (Chapter 3).
MPressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).
MWater pump seal leaking (Chapter 3).
MBoiling due to overheating (Chapter 3).
MCore plug leaking (Chapter 2A).
Internal coolant leakage
MLeaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MCracked cylinder head or cylinder bore (Chapter 2A or 2B).
Corrosion
MInfrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1).
MIncorrect coolant mixture or inappropriate coolant type (Chapter 1).
Cooling system
Clutch
Fuel and exhaust systems