1988 OPEL CALIBRA wheel bolt torque

13If the pistons and bores are in good
condition, discard the seals and obtain a
repair kit, which will contain all the necessary
renewable items. Later models (1992-on), are
fitted with L-shaped piston seals (see
illustrations). Ensure that the correct repair
kit is obtained when overhauling a wheel
cylinder, as the early and later components
are not interchangeable.
14Lubricate the piston seals with clean
brake fluid, and insert them into the cylinder
bores with the spring between them, using
finger pressure only.
15Dip the pistons in clean brake fluid, and
insert them into the cylinder bores.
16Fit the dust seals, and check that the
pistons can move freely in their bores.
Refitting
17Refit the wheel cylinder to the backplate,
and tighten the securing bolts.
18Reconnect the brake fluid pipe to the
cylinder, and tighten the union nut.
19Push the brake shoes against the pistons,
then refit the upper return spring as noted
before removal.
20Refit the brake drum and tighten the
securing screw. If necessary, back off the
adjuster wheel until the drum will pass over
the shoes.
21Remove the polythene from the brake
fluid reservoir filler neck, and bleed the
relevant brake hydraulic circuit, as described
in Section 3.
22Adjust the brakes by operating the
footbrake a number of times. A clicking noise
will be heard at the drum as the automatic
adjuster operates. When the clicking stops,
adjustment is complete.
23Refit the roadwheel and lower the vehicle
to the ground. Do not fully tighten the
roadwheel bolts until the vehicle is resting on
its wheels.
13Rear brake backplate -
removal and refitting
3
Models with rear drum brakes
Removal
1Where applicable, remove the wheel trim,
then loosen the relevant rear roadwheel bolts
and chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear
of the vehicle, and support on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheel.
2Remove the brake drum with reference to
Section 11.
3Remove the rear hub, (Chapter 10).
4Remove the brake shoes, (Section 6).
5Remove the brake wheel cylinder, as
described in Section 12.
6Using a screwdriver, prise out the lockplate
that secures the handbrake cable in the
backplate.
7Unscrew the four securing bolts, and
withdraw the stub axle and backplate.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
9Coat the rear face of the stub axle flange
with a little lithium-based grease.
10Tighten the brake backplate/stub axle
securing bolts to the specified torque, in the
three stages given in the Specifications.
11Refit the brake wheel cylinder, as
described in Section 12.
12Refit the brake shoes, as described in
Section 6.
13Refit the rear hub, as described in
Chapter 10.
14Refit the brake drum with reference to
Section 11.
15Before refitting the roadwheel and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, check and
if necessary adjust the handbrake, as
described in Section 26.
Models with rear disc brakes
(SOHC models)
Removal
16Proceed as described in paragraphs 1
to 7.
17Remove the rear hub/disc, (Chapter 10).
18Remove the handbrake shoes, (Section 7).
19Unscrew the four securing bolts, and
withdraw the stub axle and lockplate.
Refitting
20Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
21Coat the rear face of the stub axle flange
with a little lithium-based grease.
22Tighten the brake backplate/stub axle
securing bolts to the specified torque, in the
three stages given in the Specifications.
23Refit the handbrake shoes, as described
in Section 7.
24Refit the rear hub/disc, (Chapter 10).
25Before refitting the roadwheel and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, check and
if necessary adjust the handbrake, as
described in Section 26.
DOHC models
Removal
26Proceed as described in paragraphs 1
to 7.
27Remove the brake disc (Section 10).
28Remove the rear hub, (Chapter 10).
29Remove the handbrake shoes, (Section 7).
30Using a splined key, unscrew the four
securing bolts and withdraw the backplate.
Refitting
31Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
32Refit the handbrake shoes, (Section 7).
33Refit the rear hub, (Chapter 10).
34Refit the brake disc (Section 10).
35Before refitting the roadwheel and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, check and
if necessary adjust the handbrake, as
described in Section 26.
9•12Braking system
12.13A Exploded view of a rear brake
wheel cylinder
1 Dust cap
2 Bleed screw
3 Cylinder body
4 Dust seal5 Piston
6 Piston seal
7 Spring
12.13B Modified rear wheel cylinders - 1992-on models

16If adjustment is necessary, slacken the
locknut, turn the fork to give the specified
dimension, then tighten the locknut.
17Where applicable, coat the contact faces
of the servo and the mounting bracket with
sealing compound, then refit the bracket to
the servo, and tighten the securing nuts to the
specified torque.
18Coat the threads of the servo securing
bolts with locking fluid, then fit the servo to
the bulkhead and tighten the securing bolts.
19Refit the securing bolt cover plugs to the
cowl panel.
20Refit the master cylinder to the servo, and
tighten the securing nuts to the specified
torque.
21Reconnect the vacuum pipe to the servo.
22Refit the coolant expansion tank, as
described in Chapter 3.
23Refit the windscreen wiper motor and
linkage as described in Chapter 12, then refit
the windscreen cowl panel.
24Further refitting is a reversal of removal.
On completion, test the operation of the
servo, as described in Section 18.
20ABS hydraulic modulator -
removal and refitting
4
Note: Refer to Section 2, and the note at the
beginning of Section 3, before proceeding
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, and
secure a piece of polythene over the filler
neck with a rubber band, or by refitting the
cap. This will reduce the loss of fluid during
the following procedure.
3Remove the securing screw, and withdraw
the plastic cover from the hydraulic
modulator.
4Remove the two clamp screws, and lift off
the modulator wiring harness clamp (see
illustration).
5Disconnect the modulator wiring plug,
levering it from the socket with a screwdriver if
necessary.6Unscrew the brake fluid pipe union nuts,
and disconnect the pipes from the modulator.
Be prepared for fluid spillage, and plug the
open ends to prevent dirt ingress and further
fluid loss. Move the pipes just clear of the
modulator, taking care not to strain them.
7Unscrew the three modulator securing nuts
(see illustration), then tilt the modulator
slightly, and withdraw it upwards from its
bracket, sufficiently to gain access to the
earth lead securing nut at the front lower edge
of the modulator.
8Unscrew the securing nut and disconnect
the earth lead, then withdraw the modulator
from the vehicle, taking care not to spill brake
fluid on the vehicle paintwork.
9If a new modulator is to be fitted, pull the
two relays from the top of the old modulator,
and transfer them to the new unit. No attempt
must be made to dismantle the modulator.
Refitting
10Before refitting the modulator, check that
the bolts securing the mounting bracket to the
body panel are tight, and that the modulator
rubber mountings are in good condition.
Renew the rubber mountings if necessary.
11Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
12Make sure that the earth lead is
reconnected before fitting the modulator to its
mounting bracket.13On completion, remove the polythene
sheet from the brake fluid reservoir filler neck,
and bleed the complete brake hydraulic
system, as described in Section 3.
14Check that the ABS warning lamp
extinguishes when first starting the engine
after the modulator has been removed. At the
earliest opportunity, take the vehicle to a
Vauxhall dealer, and have the complete
system tested, using the dedicated ABS test
equipment.
21ABS wheel sensors - removal
and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Front wheel sensor
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Where applicable, remove the wheel trim,
then loosen the relevant front roadwheel bolts
and apply the handbrake. Jack up the front of
the vehicle, and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned
under the body side members. Remove the
roadwheel.
3Unclip the sensor wiring connector from the
retaining clip under the wheel arch, then
separate the two halves of the wiring
connector, prising them apart with a
screwdriver if necessary (see illustration).
4Using a Allen key or hexagon bit, unscrew
the bolt securing the wheel sensor to its
mounting bracket, then carefully lever the
sensor from the bracket using a screwdriver
(see illustration). Recover the seal ring.
Refitting
5Examine the condition of the seal ring, and
renew if necessary.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
7Smear a little grease on the sensor casing
before fitting it to the bracket.
8Do not fully tighten the roadwheel bolts until
the vehicle is resting on its wheels.
9Check that the ABS warning lamp
extinguishes when first starting the engine
after a wheel sensor has been removed. At
9•16Braking system
20.4 ABS hydraulic modulator (cover
removed)
1 Wiring harness
clamp screws2 Earth lead
3 Relays
21.3 Front wheel sensor wiring under
wheelarch - DOHC model
1 ABS sensor connector
2 Disc pad wear sensor wiring connector
21.4 ABS front wheel sensor securing bolt
(arrowed) - DOHC model20.7 ABS hydraulic modulator securing
screws (arrowed)

test (refer to Chapter 2A) will provide valuable
information regarding the overall performance
of the main internal components. Such a test
can be used as a basis to decide on the
extent of the work to be carried out. If, for
example, a compression test indicates serious
internal engine wear, conventional
maintenance as described in this Chapter will
not greatly improve the performance of the
engine. It may also prove a waste of time and
money, unless extensive overhaul work is
carried out first.
The following series of operations are those
most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:Primary operations
a)Clean, inspect and test the battery (See
“Weekly Checks”)
b)Check all the engine related fluids (See
“Weekly Checks”)
c)Check the condition and tension of the
auxiliary drivebelt (Sections 18 and 22, as
appropriate).
d)Renew the spark plugs (Sections 30 and
37, as appropriate).
e)Inspect the distributor cap, rotor arm and
HT leads, as applicable (Section 31).
f)Check the condition of the air filter, and
renew if necessary (Section 27).
g)Check the fuel filter (Section 29).
h)Check the condition of all hoses, and
check for fluid leaks (Section 4).i)Check the idle speed and mixture
settings, as applicable (Section 9).
5If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:
Secondary operations
All items listed under “Primary operations”,
plus the following:
a)Check the charging system (Chapter 5).
b)Check the ignition system (Chapter 5).
c)Check the fuel system (Chapters 4A and
4B).
d)Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm
(Section 31).
e)Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 31).
3Engine oil and filter - renewal
2
1Ideally, the oil should be drained with the
engine hot, just after the vehicle has been
driven.
2On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield to expose the sump drain plug
and the oil filter.
3Place a container beneath the oil drain plug
at the rear of the sump.
4Remove the oil filler cap from the camshaft
cover, then using a socket or spanner,
unscrew the oil drain plug, and allow the oil to
drain (see illustration). Take care to avoid
scalding if the oil is hot.
5Allow ten to fifteen minutes for the oil to
drain completely, then move the container
and position it under the oil filter.6On 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, improved
access to the oil filter can be gained by
jacking up the front of the vehicle and
removing the right-hand roadwheel (see
illustration). Ensure that the handbrake is
applied, and that the vehicle is securely
supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and
Vehicle Support”). Note that further oil may
drain from the sump as the vehicle is raised.
7Using a strap wrench or a filter removal tool
if necessary, slacken the filter and unscrew it
from the mounting. Alternatively, if the filter is
very tight, a screwdriver can be driven
through the filter casing and used as a lever.
Discard the filter.
8Wipe the mating face on the filter mounting
with a lint-free rag, then smear the sealing ring
of the new filter with clean engine oil of the
specified grade.
9Screw the new filter into position and
tighten it by hand only, do not use any tools.
10Where applicable, refit the roadwheel and
lower the vehicle to the ground. Fully tighten
the roadwheel bolts with the vehicle resting on
its wheels.
11Examine the condition of the oil drain plug
sealing ring and renew if necessary, then refit
the drain plug and tighten it to the specified
torque. 12Refill the engine through the filler on the
camshaft cover, using the specified grade and
quantity of oil. Fill until the level reaches the
“MAX” mark on the dipstick, allowing time for
the oil to drain through the engine to the
sump.
13Refit the oil filler cap, then start the engine
and check for leaks. Note that the oil pressure
warning lamp may stay illuminated for a few
seconds when the engine is started as the oil
filter fills with oil.
14Stop the engine and recheck the oil level,
topping-up if necessary.
15On DOHC models, refit the engine
undershield.
16Dispose of the old engine oil safely; do not
pour it down a drain.
4Hose and fluid leak check
1
1Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Remember that,
over a period of time, some very slight
seepage from these areas is to be expected -
what you are really looking for is any
indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be
found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal
by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this
manual.
Every 9000 miles or 12 months 1•9
3.6 Oil filter viewed through right-hand
wheel arch - SOHC model3.4 Sump drain plug location -
2.0 litre DOHC model
(engine undershield removed)
1
Basic service, every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months
As the drain plug releases
from the threads, move it
away quickly so the stream
of oil, running out of the
sump, goes into the container not up
your sleeve (see illustration).
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.

14Brake fluid renewal
3
Renew the brake and bleed the system.
Refer to Chapter 9 for full details.
15Brake pad check
2
With the front or rear (as applicable) of the
vehicle raised, remove the wheels and check
brake pads for wear. Renew the pads if the
lining is below that specified. See Chapter 9,
for specifications and full details.
16Handbrake linkage check
2
With the vehicle raised, check the operation
of the handbrake and lubricate the linkages.
Refer to Chapter 9, for further details.
17Power steering fluid check
2
1With the engine off, remove the cap from
the power steering reservoir. It is fitted with a
dipstick.
2The fluid should be visible up to the ‘MAX’
mark (1), (see illustration). If not, top it up
using specified fluid.
3Start the engine and immediately top-up
the fluid to the ‘MIN’ mark (2).
4Do not allow the reservoir to run dry.
5For details on how to bleed the system,
refer to Chapter 10.
18Power steering pump
drivebelt check
2
Note:Vauxhall specify the use of a special
gauge. Checking values for use with this
gauge are given in the Specifications in
Chapter 10, for reference.
Checking
1The correct belt tension can be
approximated by adjusting the length of the
threaded rod. This should give a belt
deflection of approximately 10.0 mm (0.4 in)
under moderate thumb pressure at the
midpoint of the belt run between the pulleys. If
in doubt, err on the slack side, as an
excessively tight belt may cause pump
damage.
2Check the condition of the belt and renew it
if there are any signs of damage or excessive
wear
Adjustment
3Slacken the adjuster and mounting bolts.
4Slacken the adjuster nuts, and adjust the
length of the threaded rod to remove or
tension the belt as desired (see illustration).
5Tighten the adjuster nuts, and tighten the
adjuster and mounting bolts to the specified
torque (see Chapter 10), on completion.
6If a new drivebelt has been fitted, recheck
the tension after a few hundred miles.
19Rear suspension level
control system check
2
Refer to Chapter 10, for details.
20Bodywork check
1
1Clean the outside of the vehicle. If possible,
clean underneath as well. If using a pressure
cleaner take care not to damage any electrical
components, especially in the engine
compartment.
2Check all around for signs of damage or
corrosion and treat accordingly. Repair stone
chips when you can to prevent rusting.
3Read Chapter 11, for more details.
21Lock and hinge check
2
1Lubricate locks and hinges on all doors,
tailgates (or boot lid) and bonnet.
2Check for wear or damage and ensure
correct operation of safety catches.
3Check security of the bonnet stay and it’s
securing clip.
4Read Chapter 11, for further details.
22Alternator V-belt check
2
Note:The new ribbed V-belt, fitted to later
models, can not be adjusted.
1Although special tools are available for
measuring the belt tension, a good
approximation can be achieved. Tension the
belt so that there is approximately 13.0 mm
(0.5 in) of free movement under firm thumb
pressure at the mid-point of the longest run
between pulleys.
2With the mounting bolts just holding the
unit, lever the alternator away from the engine
using a wooden lever at the mounting bracket
end until the correct tension is achieved. Then
1•12Every 9000 miles or 12 months
17.2 Topping-up the power steering fluid
level
18.4 Adjusting the length of the power
steering pump threaded rod
Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and
damage painted surfaces, so
use extreme caution when
handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid
that has been standing open for some
time, as it absorbs moisture from the air.
Excess moisture can cause a dangerous
loss of braking effectiveness.
Old hydraulic fluid is usually
darker in colour than new
fluid.
For a quick check, the thickness of the
friction material on each brake pad can
be measured through the aperture in
the caliper body.

Torque wrench settings (continued)Nmlbf ft
Starter to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4533
Starter support to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Temperature regulator plug (M20) * . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3022
Timing belt cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
Timing belt drive gear to crankshaft: *
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250184
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle tighten by between 40°and 50°
Timing belt guide roller bracket to block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Timing belt guide roller to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Timing belt guide roller to cylinder block:
Engines up to 1993
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle tighten by 45°
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle tighten by 15°
1993-on engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Transfer box bracket to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6044
Transmission to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6044
1General
This part of Chapter 2 describes
procedures that are specific to the DOHC
engine. It should be read in conjunction with
Part A.
The lower engine is basically the same as
the 2.0 litre SOHC. However the pistons are
attached to the connecting rods by gudgeon
pins, which are fully floating, and are secured
by circlips.
Both camshafts on these engines are driven
from the crankshaft by one toothed
composite rubber belt. Each cylinder has four
valves (two inlet and two exhaust), operated
directly from the camshafts by hydraulic
self-adjusting valve lifters. One camshaft
operates the inlet valves, and the other
operates the exhaust valves.
DOHC models are fitted with a remotely
mounted oil cooler.
The distributor is driven directly from the
exhaust camshaft.
2Engine - removal and refitting
4
Removal
1Carry out procedure in Chapter 2A, noting
the following differences.
2With the car safely raised, remove the
engine undershield.
3The fuel hoses need to be disconnected
from the fuel rail.
4Disconnect coolant hoses from the cylinder
block and cylinder head. Also disconnect the
oil cooler pipe unions from the oil pump.
5Unbolt the right-hand driveshaft centre
bearing support bracket from the rear of the
cylinder block.
Refitting
6Refitting the engine is similar to theprocedure in Chapter 2A. The exceptions
being, replacement of the right-hand
driveshaft centre bearing support bracket at
the rear of the cylinder block and retightening
the securing bolts.
7Replace the undershield.
3Engine/transmission
mountings- renewal
3
The procedure for replacing the engine/
transmission is similar to SOHC models, see
Chapter 2A. However this engine is fitted with
an undershield that needs to be removed
before replacing the mounts. Do not forget to
replace the undershield before lowering the
car.
4Timing belt, sprockets and belt
tensioner and idler pulleys-
removal, refitting and adjustment
3
Note: The timing belt should be renewed on
refitting. A two-legged puller may be required
to remove the crankshaft sprocket
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.2Disconnect the air cleaner trunking from the
airflow meter, then remove the cover and the
air cleaner element from the air cleaner. If
desired, for improved access, the complete
air cleaner assembly can be removed, as
described in Chapter 4B.
3Remove the power steering pump drivebelt,
as described in Chapter 10.
4Remove the alternator drivebelt, as
described in Chapter 5.
5Remove the three securing screws, and
withdraw the outer timing belt cover. Recover
the rubber grommets from the screw holes in
the cover if they are loose.
6Turn the crankshaft using a Torx socket on
the crankshaft sprocket bolt, until the timing
marks on the camshaft sprockets are aligned
with the notches in the camshaft cover. The
notch in the crankshaft pulley should also be
aligned with the pointer on the rear timing belt
cover (see illustrations).
7Extract the six securing bolts using a
splined bit, and withdraw the crankshaft
pulley (see illustration). If necessary,
counterhold the crankshaft using a socket on
the crankshaft sprocket bolt. If the engine is in
the vehicle, the crankshaft can be prevented
from turning by having an assistant engage
first gear and depress the brake pedal.
Alternatively, the flywheel ring gear teeth can
be jammed using a large screwdriver or
similar tool. Before removing the pulley, check
that the timing marks are still aligned.
DOHC engine procedures 2B•3
4.6B . . .and notch in crankshaft pulley
aligned with pointer on rear timing belt
cover (circled)4.6A Camshaft sprocket TDC mark
aligned with notch in camshaft cover
2B

18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH:
New belt, cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.5
New belt, warm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.5
Used belt, cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2.5
Used belt, warm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.0
Valves and guidesInletExhaust
Overall length - production (mm):
14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105.0105.0
16 SV, X 16 SZ and C16 NZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101.5101.5
C16 NZ2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104.2104.2
18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104.2104.0
Overall length - service (mm):
14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104.6104.6
16 SV, X 16 SZ and C16 NZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101.1101.1
C16 NZ2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103.8103.8
18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103.8103.6
Head diameter (mm):
14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33.029.0
16 SV, X 16 SZ, C16 NZ and C16 NZ2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38.031.0
18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41.836.5
Stem diameter (mm), (all engines):
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6.998 to 7.0126.978 to 6.992
0.075 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.073 to 7.0877.053 to 7.067
0.150 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.148 to 7.1627.128 to 7.142
0.250 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.248 to 7.2627.228 to 7.242
Valve guide bore (mm), (all engines):
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.030 to 7.050
0.075 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.105 to 7.125
0.150 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.180 to 7.200
0.250 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.280 to 7.300
Valve clearance in guide (mm), (all engines):
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.018 to 0.052
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.038 to 0.072
Valve seat angle:
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44º
Valve clearances:
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Automatic adjustment by hydraulic lifters
Flywheel
Maximum permissible lateral run-out of starter ring gear (all models) . .0.5 mm
Refinishing limit -maximum depth of material that may be removed
from clutch friction surface (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.3 mm
Lubrication system
Lubricant type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Lubricants and fluids in “Weekly checks”
Lubricant capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1 Specifications
Oil pump clearances:
Inner-to-outer gear teeth clearance (backlash) (all models) . . . . . . . .0.0 to 0.2 mm
Gear-to-housing clearance (endfloat):
14 NV, 16 SV, C16 NZ and X 16 SZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.08 to 0.15 mm
C16 NZ2, 18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . .0.03 to 0.10 mm
Oil pressure at idle (engine warm) (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.5 bar (21.8 lbf/in2
)
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Note:Use new bolts where asterisked (*). The torque settings stated for the cylinder head are only applicable to latest specification bolts, available
from Vauxhall. Earlier type or alternative make, head bolts may require different torques. Consult your supplier.
Air inlet pre-heat to exhaust manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
Alternator and inlet manifold to brackets:
1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2015
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1813
Alternator to bracket (M8) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3022
Alternator to bracket (M10) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4030
Alternator to shackle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Big-end bearing cap: *
1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2)
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle tighten by 30º
SOHC engine procedures 2A•5
2A

the cylinder head above the camshaft(s)
through a hose. From here the gases are
drawn into the inlet manifold/throttle body (as
applicable) and/or the air box on the
carburettor (where applicable), where they are
re-burnt with fresh air/fuel mixture, hence
reducing harmful exhaust emissions.
Maintenance
3Certain models have a mesh filter inside the
camshaft cover, which should be cleaned in
paraffin if clogging is evident (see
illustration).
4On high mileage vehicles, particularly when
regularly used for short journeys, a jelly-like
deposit may be evident inside the crankcase
ventilation system hoses. If excessive
deposits are present, the relevant hose(s)
should be removed and cleaned.
5Periodically inspect the system hoses for
security and damage, and renew as
necessary. Note that damaged or loose hoses
can cause various engine running problems
that can be difficult to trace.
6The crankcase breather/dipstick tube can
be unbolted from the cylinder block after
disconnecting the hose. Use a new gasket
when refitting.
3Compression test -
description
3
Description
1If engine performance is poor, or if misfiring
occurs which cannot be attributed to the
ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly, it can give warning of
trouble on a high mileage engine before any
other symptoms become apparent.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully
charged, and the spark plugs must be
removed. The help of an assistant will also be
required.
3Disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the coil LT (“+15”) wire. Fit the
compression tester to No 1 cylinder spark
plug hole.4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6The difference in pressure between any two
cylinders should be no more than 1.0 bar
(14.5 lbf/in2). If the pressure in any cylinder is
low, pour a teaspoonful of clean engine oil
into the spark plug hole, and repeat the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
cylinder bore or piston ring wear was
responsible for the pressure loss. No
improvement suggests that leaking or burnt
valves, or a blown head gasket may be to
blame.
8A low reading from two adjacent cylinders
is almost certainly due to the head gasket
leaking between them.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT wire.
4Major operations possible
with the engine in the vehicle
1The following operations may be carried out
without removing the engine from the vehicle:
a)Removal and refitting of oil pressure relief
valve (see Section 30)
b)Removal and refitting of timing belt and
sprockets
c)Removal and refitting of camshaft housing
(SOHC engines)
d)Removal and refitting of camshaft(s)
e)Removal and refitting of cylinder head
f)Removal and refitting of sump
g)Removal and refitting of oil pump
h)Removal and refitting of
piston/connecting rod assemblies
i)Removal and refitting of flywheel
j)Renewal of crankshaft front oil seal
k)Removal and refitting of
engine/transmission mountings
Note: It is possible to renew the crankshaft
rear oil seal with the engine in the vehicle, but
this requires the use of special tools, and is a
difficult operation, due to the lack of working
space. For this reason, this operation is
described with the engine removed from the
vehicle.
5Major operations requiring
engine removal
The engine must be removed from the
vehicle to carry out the following operations:
a)Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings
b)Removal and refitting of the crankshaft
c)Renewal of crankshaft rear oil seal
6Method of engine removal
The engine may be removed either on its
own, or together with the transmission. Unless
work is also necessary on the transmission, it
is recommended that the engine is removed
on its own. In either case, the engine or
engine/transmission assembly must be lifted
out through the top of the engine
compartment, using a hoist and lifting tackle.
7Engine - removal and refitting,
(leaving transmission in car)
4
Note: A hoist and lifting tackle will be required
for this operation.If the torque converter is
removed (even partially) from the transmission,
a considerable amount of the fluid inside it will
leak out. To prevent this, when prising the
engine from the transmission and removing it,
be careful to keep the torque converter
pressed firmly into the transmission. If the
transmission is to be removed for some time,
retain the torque converter by bolting a strip of
metal across the bellhousing mating surface.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet (Chapter 11).
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
4Drain the cooling system, remove the
radiator and transmission fluid cooler hoses
(automatic models), as described in Chapter 3.
5Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1,
remove the oil filter and discard, safely.
6Remove the air cleaner (or air cleaner
cover), the air cleaner trunking, and the air
box from the carburettor or throttle body (as
applicable), referring to Chapter 4A or 4B, if
necessary. On carburettor models,
disconnect the hot air hose from the exhaust
manifold hot air shroud and the air cleaner,
and remove the hose. On automatic models,
disconnect additional wiring, hoses, etc., from
the carburettor, as described in Chapter 4A.
7Remove the alternator, as described in
Chapter 5.
8On models with power steering, remove the
hydraulic pump, as described in Chapter 10.
9Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
from the inlet manifold.
10Disconnect the throttle cable from the
throttle lever and the bracket on the
carburettor or inlet manifold, as applicable.
11On carburettor models, disconnect the
coolant hoses from the automatic choke
housing, and disconnect the wiring from the
automatic choke heater and the choke
pull-down solenoid (see illustrations). Also
disconnect the air box vacuum pipe from the
carburettor.
2A•8SOHC engine procedures
2.3 Crankcase ventilation filter removed
from camshaft cover -
1.6 litre engine

12Disconnect the pressure sensor vacuum
pipe from the carburettor (see illustration).
13Remove the coolant hose(s) from the inlet
manifold and/or throttle body, as applicable.
14Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel
pump and vapour separator on carburettor
models or from the fuel pipes at the
right-hand side of the engine compartment on
other models. Be prepared for fuel spillage,
and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the
open ends of the pipes and hoses, to prevent
dirt ingress and further fuel leakage (see
illustrations).
15Disconnect all relevant wiring connections
and plugs, and remove the fuel injection
wiring harness. Pull up on the wiring harness
housing, and compress the wiring plug
retaining clips to release the harness housing
from the fuel injectors (see illustration).16Disconnect the heater coolant hoses from
the coolant gallery at the rear of the cylinder
block.
17Disconnect the wiring from the following
components (where applicable):
a)Starter motor
b)Distributor (note HT lead positions)
c)Oil pressure switch
d)Oil temperature switch
e)TDC sensor
f)Oil level sensor
g)Knock sensor
h)Coolant temperature sensor
i)Temperature gauge sender
18Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected, and that they are positioned
clear of the engine.
19Remove the front section of the exhaust
system, as described in Chapter 4C.
20Unbolt and remove the bellhousing cover
plate (see illustration).
21Remove the clutch (if applicable), as
described in Chapter 6. On automatic models,
use chalk or a felt-tip pen to mark the
relationship of the torque converter to the
flexplate before unbolting the torque converter.
Refer to note at the beginning of this Section
and to Chapter 7B for further information.
22Remove the crankshaft pulley. Some
pulleys are secured by four bolts, which must
be unscrewed using an Allen key or hexagon
bit. Unscrew each of the three bolts in turn
and remove them. On other engines, the
pulley is secured by a single bolt, which alsosecures the crankshaft sprocket. On manual
transmission models, if the engine is in the
vehicle, the crankshaft can be prevented from
turning by having an assistant engage first
gear and depress the brake pedal.
Alternatively, the flywheel (or flexplate, on
automatics), ring gear teeth can be jammed,
through the bellhousing cover aperture using
a large screwdriver, or similar tool. Access to
the crankshaft pulley is most easily obtained
through the right-hand wheel arch, after
removing the roadwheel.
23Attach a hoist and lifting gear to the
engine lifting brackets on the cylinder head,
and support the weight of the engine.
24Unscrew and remove two of the three
upper engine-to-transmission bolts,
accessible from the engine compartment,
leaving one fastened for safety.
25Unbolt the right-hand engine mounting
from the body and from the cylinder block,
and withdraw the mounting bracket.
26Unscrew and remove the four lower
engine-to-transmission bolts.
27Support the transmission using a trolley
jack and interposed block of wood. Remove
the last upper transmission bolt.
28Manipulate the engine as necessary to
separate it from the transmission. Note that
the transmission locates on dowels in the
cylinder block.
29Carefully raise the hoist, and lift the
engine from the vehicle, taking care not to
damage any of the surrounding components
in the engine compartment.
SOHC engine procedures 2A•9
7.12 Disconnect the pressure sensor
vacuum pipe from the carburettor -
1.6 litre model
7.20 Removing the transmission
bellhousing cover plate7.15 Removing the fuel injection wiring
harness -
2.0 litre SOHC model7.14B Fuel hose-to-pipe connections at
right-hand side of engine compartment -
2.0 litre SOHC model
7.14A Disconnecting a fuel hose from the
fuel pump - 1.6 litre model
7.11B . . .and disconnect the choke
heater/pull-down solenoid wiring plug -
1.6 litre model7.11A Disconnect the coolant hoses from
the automatic choke housing . . .
2A