1988 OPEL CALIBRA length

to be refitted, tie a length of string to the end
of the wiring. Then feed the wiring through the
boot lid and untie the string, leaving it in
position in the boot lid to assist refitting.
3Mark the position of the hinges on the boot
lid.
4With the help of an assistant, support the
weight of the boot lid, then unscrew the
securing bolts from the hinges, and lift the
boot lid from the vehicle. If the boot lid is to be
refitted, rest it carefully on rags or cardboard,
to avoid damaging the paint.
5If a new boot lid is to be fitted, transfer all
the serviceable fittings (rubber buffers, lock
mechanism, etc.), to it.
6If desired, the boot lid hinge counter-
balance springs can be removed, but before
unhooking them from the vehicle body, note
their position so that they can be refitted in
their original positions (see illustration). Use
a lever to unhook the springs.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
8Align the hinges with the precisely made
marks on the boot lid.
9Where applicable, draw the central locking
solenoid wiring through the boot lid, using the
string.
10If necessary, adjust the hinge bolts and
the rubber buffer until a good fit is obtained
with the boot lid shut.
11If necessary, adjust the position of the
lock striker on the body, to achieve
satisfactory lock operation.
10Boot lid lock (Saloon
models) - removal and
refitting
2
Removal
1Open the boot lid fully.
2Unscrew the two securing screws, then
withdraw the lock and disconnect the
operating rod.
Refitting
3Refitting is a reversal of removal, but if
necessary adjust the position of the lock
striker on the body, to achieve satisfactory
lock operation.
11Boot lid lock cylinder
(Saloon models) - removal
and refitting
2
Removal
1Open the boot lid fully.
2Unscrew the two securing nuts, then
withdraw the lock cylinder complete with the
housing, and disconnect the operating rods(s).
3To remove the lock cylinder from the
housing, insert the key into the lock, then
extract the circlip and the operating lever
assembly from the end of the lock cylinder,
and withdraw the cylinder from the housing.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, but check
the operations of the lock on completion (see
illustration).
12Tailgate (Hatchback models)
-removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Open the tailgate fully.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the securing screws, and withdraw
the tailgate trim panels.
4Disconnect all the relevant wiring now
exposed, and disconnect the washer fluid
hose.5If the original tailgate is to be refitted, tie
string to the ends of all the relevant wires, and
if necessary the washer fluid hose, then feed
the wiring and the hose through the top edge
of the tailgate. Untie the string, leaving it in
position in the tailgate to assist refitting.
6Prise off the rear roof trim panel, taking care
not to break the securing clips, and lower the
rear of the headlining slightly for access to the
tailgate hinge securing screws (see
illustrations). Mark the hinge positions on the
body.
7Have an assistant support the weight of the
tailgate, then disconnect the tailgate struts
from their mounting balljoints, with reference
to Section 15.
8Ensure that the tailgate is adequately
supported, then remove the hinge securing
screws and withdraw the tailgate from the
vehicle. If the tailgate is to be refitted, rest it
carefully on rags or cardboard, to avoid
damaging the paint.
9If desired, the hinges can be removed from
the tailgate by driving out the hinge pins.
10If the tailgate can be moved up and down
on its hinges due to wear in the hinge pins or
their holes, it may be possible to drill out the
holes and fit slightly oversize pins. Consult a
Vauxhall dealer for further advice.
11If a new tailgate is to be fitted, transfer all
serviceable components to it.
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
13Align the hinges with the previously made
marks on the body.
Bodywork and fittings 11•5
12.6B . . . for access to the tailgate hinge
screws12.6A Prise off the rear roof trim panel . . .
11.4 Boot lid/tailgate lock cylinder
components
1 Lock cylinder
2 Housing
3 Operating lever assembly
4 Circlip
9.6 Boot lid hinge counterbalance spring
locations - Saloon models
1 Position for basic boot lid
2 Position for boot lid with outer plastic
trim panel or spoiler
3 Position for boot lid with outer plastic
trim panel and spoiler
11

14If the original tailgate is being refitted,
draw the wiring and washer fluid hose (where
applicable) through the tailgate, using the
string.
15If necessary, adjust the hinge bolts and
the rubber buffers, to obtain a good fit when
the tailgate is shut.
16If necessary, adjust the position of the
lock striker on the body, to achieve
satisfactory lock operation.
13Tailgate lock (Hatchback
models) - removal and
refitting
2
Proceed as described in Section 10, but
note that for access to the lock, the rear
tailgate trim panel must be removed, after
unscrewing the securing screws. Note also
that the lock is secured by three screws (see
illustration).
14Tailgate lock cylinder
(Hatchback models) -
removal and refitting
2
Proceed as described in Section 11, but
note that for access to the lock cylinder, the
rear tailgate trim panel must be removed after
unscrewing the securing screws (see
illustration).
15Tailgate strut (Hatchback
models) - removal and
refitting
2
Removal
1Open the tailgate fully, and have an
assistant support it.
2Release the strut from its mounting
balljoints by prising the spring clips a little way
out (see illustration), and pulling the strut off
the balljoints. If the strut is to be re-used, do
not remove the spring clips completely, and
do not prise them out further than 6.0 mm
(0.24 in).
Refitting
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
16Door - removal and refitting
3
Front door
Removal
1The door hinges are welded onto the door-
frame and the body pillar, so that there is no
provision for adjustment or alignment.
2To remove a door, open it fully and support
it under its lower edge on blocks covered with
pads of rag.
3Where applicable, disconnect the battery
negative lead, and disconnect the wiring
connector from the front edge of the door. To
release the connector, twist the locking collar,
then pull the connector from the socket in the
door (see illustration).
4Using a punch, drive the large roll pin from
the door check arm pivot.
5Remove the plastic covers from the hinge
pins, then drive out the pins using a punch.
Have an assistant support the door as the
pins are driven out, then withdraw the door
from the vehicle.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, using a
new check link roll pin.
7If the door can be moved up and down on
its hinges due to wear in the hinge pins or
their holes, it may be possible to drill out the
holes and fit slightly oversize pins. Consult a
Vauxhall dealer for further advice.8Door closure may be adjusted by altering
the position of the lock striker on the body
pillar, using an Allen key or hexagon bit.
Rear door
9The removal and refitting procedure for
rear doors is as described for front doors.
Note that on models with central locking or
electric windows, it will be necessary to
remove the door inner trim panel, as
described in Section 17, disconnect the
wiring harness and feed it through the front
edge of the door.
17Door inner trim panel -
removal and refitting
2
Front door
Removal
1Prise the trim plate from the door lock
button in the top rear edge of the door, then
pull the lock button from the lock operating
rod.
2On models with manually operated
windows, release the securing clip and
remove the window regulator handle. To
release the securing clip, insert a length of
wire with a hooked end between the handle
and the trim bezel on the door trim panel, and
manipulate it to free the securing clip from the
handle (see illustration). Take care not to
damage the door trim panel.
3Prise the plastic surround from the door
interior handle (see illustration).
11•6Bodywork and fittings
15.2 Prising the spring clip from a tailgate
strut balljoint
17.2 Window regulator handle securing
clip16.3 Disconnect the wiring connector
from the front edge of the door
14.1 Tailgate lock cylinder housing - with
central locking (trim panel removed)13.1 Tailgate lock (trim panel removed)

6Carefully withdraw the bumper from the
vehicle.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Rear bumper
Removal
8Remove the rear trim panel from the
luggage compartment by prising up the top
edge to release the clips, then lift the panel
upwards to free it from the lower locating
tags. The bumper retaining nuts are now
exposed (see illustrations).
9Note that the bumper is removed as a
complete assembly with its lower trim panel.
10Disconnect the battery negative lead, then
prise the number plate lamp from the bumper,
and disconnect the wiring.
11Unscrew the bumper retaining nuts, and
recover the washers. On DOHC models, the
bumper securing nuts are accessible from
underneath the vehicle.
12Where fitted, remove the special locking
rivets, one each side, securing the bumper to
the wheel arch.
13Additional clips may be present on the
underside of the bumper which must also be
removed.
14Release the bumper retaining clips at the
front edges of the bumper by tapping the
centre pin through the expanding clip, using a
pin punch or similar. The pin will drop out as it
is pushed through - recover it for refitting.
15Push each end of the bumper towards the
rear of the vehicle, then pull the end of the
bumper from the rear wing.16Carefully withdraw the bumper from the
vehicle, taking care not to strain the number
plate lamp wiring.
Refitting
17Refitting is a reversal of removal. The
expanding clips at the front edges of the
bumper are secured by pushing the pin into
the clip until flush.
29Radiator grille panel -
removal and refitting
2
All SOHC models
Removal
1With the bonnet fully open and supported,
pull the upper edge of the grille panel
forwards and free the retaining clips using a
screwdriver. Then lift the panel to release the
lower locating lugs from their grommets in the
lower body front panel (see illustration).
Refitting
2Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the lower locating lugs seat correctly in
their grommets, and take care not to push the
grommets from their holes in the body front
panel.
DOHC and 1993-on models
Removal
3Extract the three screws securing the grille
panel to the body front panel, then lift the
grille panel to release the lower locating lugs
from their grommets in the lower body front
panel.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, with
reference to paragraph 2.
30Windscreen cowl panel -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Remove the wiper arms, referring to
Chapter 12, if necessary.2Disconnect the washer fluid hose from the
reservoir, and feed it through the cowl panel,
noting its routing as a guide to refitting. Be
prepared for fluid spillage.
3Where applicable, disconnect the battery
negative lead, then disconnect the
underbonnet lamp wiring plug and feed it
through the cowl panel, noting its routing as a
guide to refitting.
4Working from one end of the cowl panel,
carefully prise the panel from the body. Care
must be taken, as the panel is easily
damaged.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the panel is correctly seated along its
length, and that the washer fluid hose, and
where applicable the underbonnet lamp
wiring, is correctly routed.
31Wheel arch liners - general
2
1The plastic wheel arch liners are secured by
a combination of self-tapping screws and
plastic clips. Removal and refitting is self
explanatory, remembering the following
points (see illustration).
2Some of the securing clips may be held in
place using a central pin, which must be
tapped out to release the clip.
3The clips are easily broken during removal,
and it is advisable to obtain a few spare clips
for possible use when refitting.
11•12Bodywork and fittings
28.8B . . . to expose the bumper securing
nuts
31.1 Removing a wheel arch liner29.1 Freeing a radiator grille panel
retaining clip using a screwdriver
28.8A Remove the trim panel . . .28.5 Front bumper retaining clips released
from body

5If the ‘ABS’ symbol, in the instrument panel
stays lit after approximately 4 seconds, or if it
comes on sporadically or stays on whilst
driving, there is a fault in the system. Should
this occur, it is recommended that a complete
test is carried out by a Vauxhall dealer, who
will have the necessary specialist diagnostic
equipment. Due to the special equipment
required, it is not practical for the DIY
mechanic to carry out the test procedure.
6To prevent possible damage to the
electronic control unit, always disconnect the
control unit wiring plug before carrying out
electrical welding work.
7It is recommended that the control unit is
removed if the vehicle is being subjected to
high temperatures, like for instance, during
certain paint-drying processes.
8If using steam cleaning equipment, do not
aim the water/steam jet directly at the control
unit.
9Do not disconnect the control unit wiring
plug with the ignition switched on.
10Do not use a battery booster to start the
engine.
11After working on the ABS components,
ensure that all wiring plugs are correctly
reconnected, and have the complete system
tested by a Vauxhall dealer, at the earliest
opportunity.
12All models up to 1991 that were fitted with
ABS, used the ABS-2E system. From 1992
onwards an ABS-2EH system was fitted,
which can be identified by the location of the
electronic control module, which is bolted to
the hydraulic modulator.
13The main differences between the two
systems are in the electrical components and
circuits, the most obvious of these being
omission of the surge arrester relay on the
2EH system.
3Hydraulic system - bleeding
2
General
1If any of the hydraulic components in the
braking system have been removed or
disconnected, or if the fluid level in the
reservoir has been allowed to fall appreciably,
it is certain that air will have entered into the
system. The removal of all this air from the
hydraulic system is essential if the brakes are
to function correctly, and the process of
removing it is known as bleeding.
2Where an operation has only affected one
circuit of the hydraulic system (the system issplit diagonally on non-ABS models, and front
and rear on ABS models), then it will only be
necessary to bleed the relevant circuit. If the
master cylinder has been disconnected and
reconnected, or the fluid level has been
allowed to fall appreciably, then the complete
system must be bled.
3One of three methods can be used to bleed
the system, although Vauxhall recommend
the use of a pressure bleeding kit.
Bleeding - two-man method
4Obtain a clean jar, and a length of rubber or
plastic bleed tubing that will fit the bleed
screws tightly. The help of an assistant will be
required.
5Remove the dust cap and clean around the
bleed screw on the relevant caliper of wheel
cylinder (see illustration), then attach the
bleed tube to the screw. If the complete
system is being bled, start at the front of the
vehicle. When bleeding the complete system
on models with ABS, the front brakes must be
bled before the rears.
6Check that the fluid reservoir is topped up,
and then destroy the vacuum in the brake
servo by giving several applications of the
brake pedal.
7Immerse the open end of the bleed tube in
the jar, which should contain two or three
inches of hydraulic fluid. The jar should be
positioned about 300 mm (12.0 in) above the
bleed screw to prevent any possibility of air
entering the system down the threads of the
bleed screw when it is slackened.
8Open the bleed screw half a turn, and have
the assistant depress the brake pedal slowly
to the floor. With the brake pedal still
depressed, retighten the bleed screw, and
then have the assistant quickly release the
pedal. Repeat the procedure.
9Observe the submerged end of the tube in
the jar. When air bubbles cease to appear,
tighten the bleed screw when the pedal is
being held fully down by the assistant.
10Top-up the fluid reservoir. It must be kept
topped up throughout the bleeding
operations. If the connecting holes to the
master cylinder are exposed at any time due
to low fluid level, the air will be drawn into the
system, and the whole bleeding process will
have to start again.
11If the complete system is being bled, the
procedure should be repeated on the
diagonally opposite rear brake. Then on the
front and rear brakes of the other circuit on
non-ABS models, or on the remaining front
brake and then on the rear brakes on ABS
models.
12On completion, remove the bleed tube,
and discard the fluid that has been bled from
the system, unless it is required to make up
the level in the bleed jar. Never re-use old fluid.
13On completion of bleeding, top-up the
fluid level in the reservoir. Check the action ofthe brake pedal, which should be firm, and
free from any “sponginess” that would
indicate that air is still present in the system.
Bleeding - with one-way valve
14There are a number of one-man brake
bleeding kits currently available from motor
accessory shops. It is recommended that one
of these kits should be used whenever
possible, as they greatly simplify the bleeding
operations. They also reduce the risk of
expelled air or fluid being drawn back into the
system.
15Proceed as described in paragraphs 5
and 6.
16Open the bleed screw half a turn, then
depress the brake pedal to the floor, and
slowly release it. The one-way valve in the
bleeder device will prevent expelled air from
returning to the system at the completion of
each stroke. Repeat the operation until clear
hydraulic fluid, free from air bubbles, can be
seen coming through the tube. Tighten the
bleed screw.
17Proceed as described in paragraphs 11
to 13 inclusive.
Bleeding - with pressure
bleeding kit
18These are also available from motor
accessory shops, and are usually operated by
air pressure from the spare tyre.
19By connecting a pressurised container to
the master cylinder fluid reservoir, bleeding is
then carried out by simply opening each bleed
screw in turn and allowing the fluid to run out.
Like turning on a tap, until no air bubbles are
visible in the fluid being expelled.
20Using this method, the large reserve of
fluid provides a safeguard against air being
drawn into the master cylinder during the
bleeding operations.
21This method of bleeding is recommended
by Vauxhall.
22Begin bleeding with reference to
paragraphs 5 and 6, and continue as
described in paragraphs 11 to 13 inclusive.
Braking system 9•3
3.5 Removing the dust cap from a rear
caliper bleed screw - models with
ventilated discs
9
If brake fluid is spilt on the
paintwork, the affected area
must be washed down with
cold water immediately.
Brake fluid is an effective paint
stripper!

18If both brake assemblies are dismantled
at the same time, take care not to mix up the
components. Note that the left-hand and
right-hand adjuster components are marked.
The threaded rod is marked “L” or “R”, and
the other “handed” components are colour-
coded black for the left-hand side, and silver
for the right-hand side.
19Dismantle and clean the adjuster strut.
Apply a smear of silicone-based grease to the
adjuster threads.
20Examine the return springs. If they are
distorted, or if they have seen extensiveservice, renewal is advisable. Weak springs
may cause the brakes to bind.
21If a new handbrake operating lever was
not supplied with the new shoes (where
applicable), transfer the lever from the old
shoes. The lever may be secured with a pin
and circlip, or by a rivet, which will have to be
drilled out.
22If the components are to be refitted as an
assembly, assemble the new shoes, springs
and adjuster components. Expand the
adjuster strut to ease fitting (see
illustrations).
23Offer the shoes to the brake backplate. Be
careful not to damage the wheel cylinder
boots, or to displace the pistons. Remember
to remove the rubber band or spring clip from
the wheel cylinder, where applicable.
24When the shoes are in position, insert the
hold-down pins and secure them with the
springs and cups (see illustration).
25Reconnect the handbrake cable, then refit
the hub, and adjust the bearing if the hub was
removed.
26Fitting the shoes and springs together as
an assembly may be too difficult. It is possible
to fit the shoes and secure them with the
hold-down pins and then fit the adjuster strut,
the return springs and adjuster.27Back off the adjuster wheel to reduce the
length of the strut, until the brake drum will
pass over the shoes.
28Make sure that the handbrake operating
lever is correctly positioned, with the pin on
the edge of the shoe web, not riding on top of
it, then refit and secure the brake drum.
29Repeat the operations on the remaining
side of the vehicle.
30Adjust the brakes by operating the
footbrake at least fifteen times. A clicking
noise will be heard at the drums, as the
automatic adjusters operate. When the
clicking stops, adjustment is complete.
31Check the handbrake adjustment, as
described in Section 26.
32Refit the roadwheels, and lower the
vehicle to the ground. Do not fully tighten the
roadwheel bolts until the vehicle is resting on
its wheels.
33New brake linings should be carefully
bedded-in and, where possible, heavy braking
should be avoided during the first 100 miles
(160 km) or so after fitting new linings.
7Handbrake shoes (rear disc
brakes) - inspection, removal
and refitting
3
Note: When working on the brake
components, take care not to disperse brake
dust into the air, or to inhale it, since it may
contain asbestos, which can damage your
health.
Inspection
1Although 2.0 litre models are fitted with rear
disc brakes, the handbrake operates
independently of the footbrake, using brake
shoes on the inside of the disc in a similar way
to rear drum brake models.
2To inspect the handbrake shoes on all
SOHC models, it is necessary to remove the
hub/disc, as described in Chapter 10.
3To inspect the handbrake shoes on DOHC
models it will be necessary to remove the
brake disc, as described in Section 10.
4With the hub/disc or the disc (as applicable)
removed, check that the friction material has
not worn down to less than the specified
minimum.
Braking system 9•7
6.22A Right-hand adjuster strut correctly
fitted to shoes
6.24 Rear brake components correctly
assembled (hub removed for clarity)6.22C Adjuster lever spring fitted to
leading shoe6.22B Fitting the upper return spring to
the shoes
6.17 Modified rear brake shoe lower anchorage - 1992-on models
9

5If any one of the shoes has worn below the
specified limit, all four handbrake shoes must
be renewed as a set, as follows.
SOHC models
Removal
6Clean the dust and dirt from the various
components, but take care not to inhale it.
7Disconnect the handbrake cable and the
return spring from the handbrake operating
lever at the brake backplate. If necessary,
slacken the handbrake cable adjustment, with
reference to Section 26.
8Remove the shoe hold-down pins, springs
and cups by depressing the cups and turning
them through 90°using a pair of pliers. Note
that the hold-down pins are removed through
the rear of the brake backplate.
9The shoes, adjuster, handbrake operating
lever and return springs can now be removed
together as an assembly.
10Note the position and orientation of all
components, then unhook the upper and
lower return springs from the shoes, and
recover the handbrake operating lever and the
adjuster.
Refitting
11Apply a little brake grease to the threads
of the adjuster, then screw it together to its
minimum length. Also apply a little brake
grease to the shoe rubbing areas on the
lockplate.
12Fit one of the new brake shoes, and
secure it to the backplate with the hold-down
pin, spring and cup.
13Fit the handbrake operating lever in
position.
14Fit the remaining brake shoe, and secure
with the hold-down pin, spring and cup.
15Hook the upper return spring onto the
shoes.
16Fit the adjuster between the lower ends of
the shoes, as noted before dismantling, then
fit the lower return spring (see illustrations).
17Reconnect the handbrake cable and the
return spring to the handbrake operating
lever.
18Refit the hub/disc, and adjust the wheel
bearing play, as described in Chapter 10, but
do not refit the roadwheel at this stage.
19Repeat the operations on the remaining
side of the vehicle.20Check the handbrake cable adjustment,
as described in Section 26.
21Refit the roadwheels and lower the vehicle
to the ground. Do not fully tighten the
roadwheel bolts until the vehicle is resting on
its wheels.
DOHC models
Removal
22Proceed as described in paragraphs 6
and 7.
23Remove the shoe hold-down pins, springs
and cups by turning the cups through using a
screwdriver. Note that the hold-down pins are
removed through the rear of the brake
backplate. Note also the position and
orientation of all components, then unhook
the upper and lower return springs from the
shoes, and recover the handbrake operating
lever and the adjuster.
Refitting
24Proceed as described in paragraphs 11 to
14 inclusive.
25Hook the lower return spring onto the
shoes.
26Fit the adjuster between the upper ends of
the shoes, as noted before dismantling, then
fit the upper return spring (see illustration).
27Reconnect the handbrake cable and the
return spring to the handbrake operating
lever.
28Refit the brake disc as described in
Section 10, but do not refit the roadwheel at
this stage.
29Proceed as described in paragraphs 19
to 21 inclusive.
8Front disc caliper - removal,
overhaul and refitting
3
Note: Refer to the note at the beginning of
Section 3 before proceeding. Before
dismantling a caliper, check that replacement
parts can be obtained, and retain the old
components to compare them with the new
ones. New sealing rings must be used on the
fluid hose union bolt on refitting
Models with solid discs
Removal
1Where applicable, remove the wheel trims,
then loosen the relevant front roadwheel bolts
and apply the handbrake. Jack up the front of
the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheel.
2Remove the brake disc pads, as described
in Section 4.
3Working under the bonnet, remove the
brake fluid reservoir cap, and secure a piece
of polythene over the filler neck with a rubber
band, or by refitting the cap. This will reduce
the loss of fluid during the following
procedure.
4Unscrew the brake fluid hose union bolt
from the rear of the caliper, and disconnect
the hose. Recover the two sealing rings from
the union bolt (one either side of the hose end
fitting). Be prepared for fluid spillage, and plug
the open ends to prevent dirt ingress and
further fluid loss.
5Prise out the two caliper bracket mounting
bolt dust caps from the inboard edge of the
caliper bracket, then using an Allen key or
hexagon bit, unscrew the mounting bolts, and
withdraw the caliper assembly from the
vehicle.
Overhaul
6If desired, the caliper can be overhauled as
follows. Otherwise, go on to paragraph 24 for
details of refitting.
7Brush the dirt and dust from the caliper, but
take care not to inhale it.
8Mount the caliper bracket in a soft-jawed
vice. Then separate the caliper body from the
mounting bracket by pressing the front face of
the caliper body downwards and simultane-
ously sliding the caliper body from the
locating pins on the bracket. Recover the
guide springs from the bracket, noting their
orientation.
9Using a screwdriver, prise the dust seal
retaining clip from the piston dust seal, then
carefully prise off the dust seal.
10Place a thin piece of wood in front of the
piston to prevent it from falling out of its bore
and sustaining damage. Then apply low air
pressure - e.g. from a foot pump - to the
hydraulic fluid union hole in the rear of the
caliper body, to eject the piston from its bore.
9•8Braking system
7.16A Fitting the lower shoe return spring
- SOHC models
7.26 Handbrake shoe adjuster and upper
return spring correctly fitted - DOHC models
7.16B Handbrake shoe components
correctly assembled - SOHC models

5Loosen the adjuster nut until the wheels are
just free to turn.
6The handbrake must start to operate with
the lever on the second notch of the ratchet.
7On completion of adjustment, check the
handbrake cables for free movement, and
apply a little grease to the adjuster threads to
prevent corrosion.
8Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Models with rear disc brakes
9Where applicable, remove the wheel trims,
then loosen the rear roadwheel bolts and
chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear of the
vehicle, and support securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheels.
10Pull the handbrake lever as far as the
second notch on the ratchet.
11On DOHC models fitted with a catalytic
converter, unscrew the four securing nuts and
withdraw the exhaust centre box heat shield
by carefully sliding it round the centre box.
12On all SOHC models, loosen the knurled
nut on the cable adjuster (mounted on the
torsion beam).
13On DOHC models, loosen the nut
securing the cable equaliser yoke to the
handbrake lever operating rod.
14Using a screwdriver inserted through the
adjuster hole in one of the discs/hubs (see
illustration), turn the adjuster wheel until the
brake shoes can just be heard to rub when the
disc/hub is turned by hand in the normal
direction of rotation.
15Turn the adjuster wheel back until the
disc/hub is just free to turn.
16Repeat paragraphs 14 and 15 on the
remaining side of the vehicle.
17Tighten the nut on the cable adjuster or
the equaliser, as applicable, until the brakeshoes just begin to operate. Check that the
shoes operate equally on both wheels.
18Fully release the handbrake, then apply it
again.
19The discs/hubs must lock when the
handbrake lever reaches the sixth notch on
the ratchet. If necessary, turn the nut on the
cable adjuster or equaliser, as applicable, to
achieve this.
20Where applicable, refit the exhaust heat
shield.
21Refit the roadwheels and lower the vehicle
to the ground. Do not fully tighten the
roadwheel bolts until the vehicle is resting on
its wheels.
27Handbrake cable - removal
and refitting
3
Models with rear drum brakes
Removal
1The handbrake cable is in two sections. The
longer section runs from the handbrake
operating rod, through the adjuster, to the
right-hand brake assembly. The shorter
section runs from the adjuster to the left-hand
brake assembly. The two sections of the cable
can be renewed independently.
2Where applicable, remove the wheel trim(s),
then loosen the relevant rear roadwheel bolts.
Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of the
vehicle, and support securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheel(s).
3Note the routing of the handbrake cable(s),
as an aid to refitting.
4Remove the relevant brake drum(s), with
reference to Section 11.
Longer cable
Removal
5Note the length of exposed thread at the
handbrake cable adjuster on the torsion
beam, then unscrew the adjuster nut from the
threaded rod.
6Disconnect the cable from the handbrake
lever operating rod on the vehicle underbody
(see illustration).
7Detach the cable from the guides on the
underbody. Note that the cable can be fed
through certain guides, but in some cases, the
guide brackets must be bent away from the
underbody to allow the cable to be withdrawn.
8Detach the cable from the adjuster on the
torsion beam.
9Unhook the cable end from the lever on the
brake shoe, then using a screwdriver, prise
out the lockplate that secures the handbrake
cable in the backplate.
10Withdraw the cable from the vehicle,
releasing it from the guide on the torsion
beam.
Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
12Screw the adjuster nut onto the threaded
rod to the position noted before removal.
13Ensure that the handbrake cable is routed
as noted before removal.
14Refit the brake drum, (Section 11).
15Before refitting the roadwheel(s) and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, adjust the
handbrake, as described in Section 26.
Shorter cable
Removal
16Note the length of exposed thread at the
handbrake cable adjuster on the torsion
beam, then unscrew the adjuster nut from the
threaded rod. Continue as described in
paragraphs 8 to 10.
Braking system 9•19
27.6 Handbrake cable connection to handbrake lever operating
rod
1 Handbrake cable
2 Connecting link3 Handbrake lever operating rod26.14 Using a screwdriver to turn the handbrake adjuster wheel -
model with rear disc brakes
9

Refitting
17Proceed as described in paragraphs 11
to 15 inclusive.
Models with rear disc brakes
(SOHC)
General
18The procedure is as described for models
with rear drum brakes, remembering the
following points.
19Ignore the references to removal and
refitting of the brake drum.
20Note that there is no lockplate securing
the handbrake cable to the brake backplate,
but the return spring must be unhooked from
the cable end.
21On models with a catalytic converter,
when removing the longer cable, unscrew the
four securing nuts and withdraw the exhaust
centre box heat shield by carefully sliding it
round the centre box.
DOHC models
Removal
22The left and right-hand handbrake cables,
and the equaliser yoke, are removed as an
assembly on DOHC models.
23Loosen the rear roadwheel bolts, then
chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of the
vehicle, and support securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheels.
24Note the routing of the handbrake cables,
as an aid to refitting.
25On models with a catalytic converter,
unscrew the four securing nuts and withdraw
the exhaust centre box heat shield by
carefully sliding it round the centre box.
26Note the length of exposed thread at the
cable equaliser yoke, then unscrew the
securing nut and disconnect the equaliser
yoke from the handbrake lever operating rod.
27Unhook the cable ends from the brake
shoe operating levers and the return springs
(see illustration).
28Detach the cable from the guides on the
underbody and the semi-trailing arms. Note
that the cables can be fed through certainguides, but in some cases, the guide brackets
may have to be bent away from the
underbody to allow the cables to be
withdrawn.
29Withdraw the cables and equaliser
assembly from the vehicle.
Refitting
30Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
31Use a new self-locking nut to secure the
equaliser yoke to the handbrake lever
operating rod, and screw the nut onto the rod
to the position noted before removal.
32Ensure that the cables are routed as
noted before removal.
33Before refitting the roadwheels and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, adjust the
handbrake, as described in Section 26.
28Handbrake lever - removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Jack up the vehicle, and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned securely under the body side
members.
3On models with a catalytic converter,
unscrew the four securing nuts and withdraw
the exhaust centre box heat shield by
carefully sliding it round the centre box.
4On all SOHC models, note the length of
exposed thread at the handbrake cable adjuster
on the torsion beam, then slacken the adjuster
to enable the cable to be disconnected from the
handbrake lever operating rod. Disconnect the
cable from the operating rod and slide the
rubber sealing grommet from the underbody
and operating rod.
5On DOHC models, note the length of
exposed thread at the handbrake cable
equaliser yoke, then unscrew the securing nut
and disconnect the equaliser yoke from the
handbrake lever operating rod. Slide the
rubber sealing grommet from the underbody
and operating rod.
6Remove the front passenger seat, as
described in Chapter 11.7Remove the rear section of the centre
console, as described in Chapter 11.
8Access to the handbrake lever-to-floor
mounting bolts is provided by slits in the
carpet. If no slits are provided, either carefully
cut some, or release and fold back the carpet.
9Unscrew the mounting bolts, and withdraw
the handbrake lever sufficiently to disconnect
the handbrake “on” warning lamp switch
wiring (see illustration).
10Disconnect the wiring and withdraw the
handbrake lever and operating rod from the
vehicle.
11A worn ratchet segment can be renewed
by driving the securing sleeve from the
handbrake lever, using a metal rod or a bolt of
similar diameter (see illustration).
12Drive the new sleeve supplied with the
new segment into the lever to permit a little
play between the segment and lever.
13If desired, a new pawl can be fitted if the
original pivot rivet is drilled out (see
illustration).
14Rivet the new pawl so that the pawl is still
free to move.
15The handbrake “on” warning lamp switch
can be removed from the lever assembly after
unscrewing the securing bolt.
Refitting
16Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
17Refit the rear section of the centre
console, as described in Chapter 11.
18Refit the front passenger seat, as
described in Chapter 11.
9•20Braking system
28.13 Drilling out the handbrake lever pawl
pivot pin
28.11 Driving out the handbrake lever
ratchet segment securing sleeve28.9 Handbrake lever securing bolts
(arrowed)27.27 Handbrake cable end fitting at brake
shoe - DOHC model
1 Operating lever
2 Cable bracket on semi-trailing arm