51. Apply the
handbrake lever by
one 'click' of the
ratchet. From inside
the car, turn the
adjusting nut (a)
until the cable is
drawn taut. Pull the
handbrake up two
more 'clicks' and check that both rear wheels are now
'locked'. Check also that both rear wheels are completely free
when the handbrake is fully OFF. When everything works
properly, lower the car to the ground, and check again that
moving the handbrake through about three notches is suffi-
cient to hold the car stationary. A proper check of handbrake
efficiency can only be carried out by a garage with a 'rolling
road' brake tester.
Q Job 52. Check brake pipes.
FLEXIBLE HOSES
Check the flexible brake pipes that connect the calipers to the
metal pipes on the body. Try bending back on themselves
those that are not contained in a protective coil, and look for
any signs of cracking, particularly at the bends. Check them all
for signs of rubbing, splitting, kinks and perishing of the
rubber. Check hoses for 'ballooning' with the brake pedal
pressed.
RIGID PIPES
Check all rigid pipes for signs of damage or corrosion and
check that all of the locating clips are sound and in place.
• Job 53. Change brake hydraulic fluid.
Change the brake fluid at the recommended interval. See
Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements, PART H: BRAKES,
Job 15.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: Brake fluid absorbs water from
the air. This corrodes brake components and can cause
total brake failure. With brakes applied heavily, the fluid
can heat to above 100 degrees Celsius, the water
vaporises, and the pedal goes to the floor! B
PART H: BODYWORK & INTERIOR
• Job 54. Lubricate hinges and locks.
Apply a few drops of light oil (from either an aerosol or oil
can) to the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate. Dip the
door/tailgate key in graphite powder and insert the key to
lubricate the lock barrels. Grease the door and tailgate latch
mechanism (aerosol grease is handy), the bonnet release
mechanism (and the tailgate's, if applicable) and the cable
end. Don't forget the fuel tank flap hinge and the locking cap
- it's a stopper when it jams!
• Job 55. Check windscreen.
Clean the windscreen with a proprietary glass cleaner and
examine it for stone chips, cracks and scoring. While some
degree of damage is acceptable, the strict MoT Test regula-
tions limit the amount and position of such defects. Some
screen chips can be repaired and made invisible.
• Job 56. Check seat and seat belt mountings.
Your car's seat and safety belt mountings and backrest
adjustment locking mechanism will be checked as part of the
annual test, but it pays to check them beforehand. Also,
regularly check that the seat belts: a) retract easily and
smoothly, and b) 'hold' when you snatch them, or under
sharp braking.
Q Job 57. Check headlight alignment.
Some vehicles are fitted with an automatic headlight levelling
device. On these vehicles, each of the headlights is adjusted
according to the vehicle height and no height levelling
adjustment is possible.
57. On the majority of vehicles, there is a manual height
adjuster. When the vehicle is unladen, the lever should be in
position (1): when fully laden, in position (2). The height
adjusters are on the inner side of each headlight and are
visible with the bonnet open. Make sure that the adjusters are
set to the 'unladen' position before the headlights are
adjusted. Don't confuse the beam correctors with the vertical
alignment screw (A) and the horizontal adjuster screw (B).
• Job 58. Check underbody.
Check the condition of the underbody for damage and
corrosion. Take a tin of waxy underbody seal and a brush
under the car and replace any missing underbody seal.
expert22 fl/ia http://rutracker.org
RIGHT SIDE
Q Step 2: Before starting the engine, make sure all your
electrical connections are sound and your fuel, oil and coolant
connections are correct and secure.
Q Step 3: Run the engine to working temperature and then
allow to cool. Re-check all fluid levels.
Job 20. Diesel engine.
Mountings - replacement.
See
Job
12
and Job
18,
Step 20
Job 21. Diesel engine/
transmission (removed from car)
- separation.
Q Step 1: Remove the starter motor.
• Step 2: On the turbo version, undo the flange bolts see
Job
18,
Step 16A and withdraw the drive-shaft extension, if
still
fitted.
Q Step 3: Unbolt and remove the rear engine plate and the
gearbox, being careful to support the gearbox weight as it is
withdrawn.
Job 22. Diesel engine/
transmission (removed from car)
- reconnection.
Q Step 1: Before proceeding, check the condition of the
clutch and
its release mechanism. Make sure the driven plate
is
properly centred on the flywheel
-
see PART B: TRANS-
MISSION.
Q Step 2: Now reverse the order of separation, but be
careful when
engaging the gearbox input shaft with the
clutch
driven plate that you don't 'hang' its weight on the
splines.
Also,
see
Job 11.
Job 23. Diesel engine -
dismantling.
This Job should
be read in conjunction with Job 5 The
engines are
broadly similar although the information given in
this Job takes
priority for diesel engines. It is MOST
IMPORTANT that you read the FACT FILE on page 84.
SAFETY FIRST!
•
The inside
of diesel engines are particularly filthy
places!
•
Old diesel
oil
is
carcinogenic!
•
Wear suitable
impervious gloves!
I
• Step 1: Remove the timing belt and cylinder head. See
Jobs
13
and 14.
Q Step 2: Remove the alternator, water pump and
thermostat housing distribution pipe.
• Step 3: Remove the crankshaft timing belt sprocket.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! Note that the bolt securing
the crankshaft sprocket has a left-hand thread and must
be undone clockwise. D
• Step 4: Unbolt the timing belt tensioner and idler pulleys.
• Step 5: Remove the injection pump sprocket.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! You will need two FIAT tools
for this operation. One (No. 1860473000) is to prevent
the sprocket from turning when undoing the nut, and
the other (extractor No. 1842128000) to pull the sprocket
from the injection pump shaft. Alternatively it may be
possible to improvise a means of preventing sprocket
rotation, and a suitable three-leg puller may be carefully
used to withdraw the sprocket. Take care not to lose the
pump shaft Woodruff key. B
• Step 6:
Unbolt and
detach the
support bracket
(a) from the rear
of the injection
pump (b). Unbolt
the pump flange
and bracket
nuts, and
remove the
pump and its
front bracket (c).
• Step 7: Remove and discard the old oil filter.
Step 8: Remove the crankcase breather, the low-oil-
pressure switch and the oil pressure gauge sensor from the
front face of the engine.
• Step 9: Turn the engine upside down and remove the
flywheel and the sump.
Job 11. Drive-shaft inner spider
joint - replacement.
• Step 3: Replace the (split) rubber mounting and refit the
weight.
Job 13. Front hub/bearings -
replacement.
Job 11-1
a - distance - 305 mm b - spider joint c - inner gaiter d - inner bearing seal e
-
vibration damper f
-
outer gaiter
g - circlip h - outer u.j. i - hub mounting spline
• Step 1: Note the arrangement of the inner spider joint
and drive-shaft components.
Q Step 2: Remove the
drive-shaft from the car. See
Job 9.
• Step 3: Remove the
circlip and pull or press the
spider joint from the drive-
shaft.
• Step 4: Remove the inner gaiter (illustration Job
11-1,
part c) from the seal bearing (Job
11-1,
partd). Check the
bearing for wear and smooth operation.
Q Step 5: Replace it if necessary by using a standard type
puller to remove it from the shaft, driving the new one into
position with a suitable length of tubing.
Q Step 6: After obtaining a new spider joint, if necessary,
(available as a complete replacement item from your FIAT
dealership), fit the new gaiter and its retainer to the shaft,
followed by the spider joint and circlip. No lubrication is
required prior to refitting the drive-shaft.
• Step 7: E9 INSIDE INFORMATION! The turbo diesel
uses an inboard CV joint similar to the outer one except
that it has a flange for attachment to the transmission.
(See PART A: ENGINE, Job 18, Step 16A ) Inspect and
replace in the same way as the outer one. The interme-
diate shaft can only be inspected for wear in its bearing
which cannot be removed separately. Therefore, the
whole unit must be changed if defects are found. Q
Job 12. Drive-shaft damper -
replacement.
Refer to Job
11,
Step 1
Q Step 1: A damper is fitted to the right-hand drive-shaft to
prevent vibration in what is a long drive-shaft. The rubber
mounting can disintegrate or become damaged.
Q Step 2: Use an Allen key to separate the two halves of
the weight.
s * You ™yfind *
" U ' necessary to pull out
gently
on the stub axle and at
the
same time tap lightly (so you don't damage the
thread) on the end of the shaft to knock it through.
• Retrieve the stub axle/hub assembly.
Q Step 7: Use a large vice or a press to push the hub out of
the stub axle.
• Step 8: You may have to remove the bearing inner track
from the hub if it comes out with it.
• Step 2: Partly dismantle the front suspension as described
in Job 9. Steps 2 to 6.
• Step 3: Unbolt the brake caliper and support bracket and
tie it clear.
• Step 1: Take note of the components illustrated here.
Also, see PART G: STEERING AND SUSPENSION, Job
12
where this work is described in more detail.
Q Step 4: Unbolt the brake disc and shield.
• Step 5: Undo the track control arm to stub axle pinch
bolt and
withdraw the
balljoint pin from
the stub axle.
• Step 6: Ease
the stub axle
(illustration Job
13-1,
parts d
and c, combined)
off the drive-
shaft splines (Job
11-1,
parti)
leaving the
inboard end of the
mission.
drive-shaft still attached to the trans-
PART F: FUEL AMD EXHAUST SYSTEMS
PART F: Contents
Job 1. Fuel system types. Job 9. Electric fuel pump, petrol engine (S.P.I.)
-
Job 2. Carburettor
-
removal and refitting. replacement.
Job 3. Petrol injection unit
-
removal and refitting. Job 10. Fuel tank
-
removal and refitting.
Job 4. Accelerator cable, carburettor engines
-
replacement Job 11. Hot air hoses/thermo-valves
-
general.
and adjustment. Job 12. Lambda sensor (S.P.I, engines)
-
replacement.
Job 5. Carburettor choke cable
-
replacement and Job 13. Fuel evaporation system.
adjustment. Job 14. Exhaust system
-
replacement.
Job 6. Accelerator cable, petrol injection engines -Job 15. Turbocharger, diesel engine
-
replacement.
replacement and adjustment. Job 16. Diesel injection pump
-
removal and refitting.
Job 7. Diesel engines. Accelerator cable
-
replacement and Job 17. Diesel injectors
-
remove and refit.
adjustment. Job 18. Bleeding Diesel fuel system.
Job 8. Mechanical fuel pump, petrol engine (carburettored) -
replacement.
Job 1. Fuel system types.
FACT FILE: FUEL INJECTION/ELECTRONIC
IGNITION PRECAUTIONS
OBSERVE THE FOLLOWING PRECAUTIONS
WHEN WORKING ON PETROL-ENGINED
VEHICLES WITH FUEL INJECTION - ELECTRONIC
IGNITION SYSTEMS:
• never start the engine when the electrical terminals are
poorly connected or loose on the battery poles;
• never use a quick battery charger to start the engine;
• never disconnect the battery from the car circuit with the
engine running;
• when charging the battery quickly, first disconnect the
battery from the vehicle circuit;
• if the vehicle is placed in a bodyshop drying oven after
painting at a temperature of more than 80 degrees Celsius,
first remove the injection/ignition ECU;
• never connect or disconnect the ECU multiple connector
with the ignition key in MARCIA position;
• always disconnect battery negative lead before carrying out
electrical welding on vehicle.
Note that some systems contain one memory that is always
active (stand-by memory) and that stores learnt self-adaptive
values. Because this data is lost when the battery is discon-
nected, this operation should be carried out as infrequently as
possible.
Refer to illustrations in Job 1 for typical layouts.
It's a good idea to familiarise yourself with the type of fuel
system fitted to your car. These are the main types.
• Type 1: This is the 1400/1600cc carburettored engines
fuel system.
SAFETY FIRST!
• The high pressure pipework on a petrol or diesel fuel
injection system can retain its pressure for days even
after the engine has been switched off.
• When you disconnect the pipework, a jet of fuel can
be emitted under very high pressure
-
strong enough to
penetrate the skin or damage the eyes.
• NEVER work on the fuel pipework when the engine is
running (except when bleeding Diesel injectors
-
see Job
18.
• ALWAYS place a rag over a union while it is being
undone until all the pressure has been let out of the
system.
• You must wear strong rubber gloves and goggles
when disconnecting the fuel injection system's high
pressure pipework. Always disconnect VERY slowly,
letting pressure out progressively.
• See Job 8 for details of how to depressurise the
system.
• Disconnect the battery negative earth before working
on the fuel system.
• Work outdoors and away from sources of flame or
ignition.
• ALWAYS wear rubber gloves
-
don't let your skin come
into contact with fuel.
1 - overflow pipe 2 - safety valve/roll over cut-off device 3 - fuel tank 4 - carburettor 5 - fuel supply, pump to carburettor 6 - mechanical fuel pump
7 - fuel filter 8 - fuel supply, tank to pump 9 - excess fuel return, carburettor to tank 10 - breather pipe, between highest and lowest Job
1-1
• Step 8:
Support the
axle beam with
the jack and
undo the
mounting bolts
(arrowed and
indicated by
operator with
socket bar).
Lower the
complete unit
from the car.
IMPORTANT NOTE: In this shot, the top shock absorber
mountings have been disconnected, leaving the shock
absorber fitted to the suspension and the coil springs in
place. We recommend 'our' approach, covered in Step 7!
• Step 9: Undo the bolts securing the anti-roll bar and
remove it. (See Job 9.) Disconnect the brake pipes from the
side to be worked on and remove the brake drum.
Q Step 10: Remove the hub cap (see illustration Job 1-1D,
part 13) by carefully tapping and levering with a screwdriver.
• Step 11: Undo the hub nut (see illustration Job 1-1D,
part
10).
PART H: BRAKES
• Step 12: A special tool
(1857508000) or a VERY
strong Allen key (a) will be
required to reach into the
hub (b), and plenty of
leverage!
Q Step 13: Remove the
hub and inspect the bearing
for roughness or noise or
roughness when turning it by hand.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION! The bearing is lubricated for
life and is only supplied as an assembly with the hub. B
• Step 14: Inspect the stub axle pin (see illustration Job
1-
1D, part
12)
for any signs of damage or distortion. Replace if
in doubt.
Q Step 15: Refitting is the reverse of removal but note the
following:
• See Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures for all tightening
torques as you progress through the assembling.
• Use new hub nuts and fully tighten once the suspension is
mounted to give you stability.
• Refer to PART H: BRAKES when refitting the brake parts
and bleeding the brakes.
PART H: Contents %
Job 1. Understanding Tipo/Tempra brakes.
Job 2. Front brake pads
-
replacement.
Job 3. Front brake caliper
-
replacement.
Job 4. Front brake disc
-
replacement.
Job 5. Rear brake shoes
-
replacement.
Job 6. Rear wheel cylinder
-
replacement.
Job 7. Rear brake disc pads
-
replacement.
Job 8. Rear brake caliper
-
replacement.
Job 9. Rear brake disc
-
replacement.
Job 10. Master cylinder
-
replacement.
Job 11. Servo check
-
remove and refit.
Job 12. Pressure regulating valve, non-ABS system -
replacement and adjustment.
Job 13. Pressure regulating valves, ABS system
-
replacement
and adjustment.
Job 14. RPM sensors, ABS systems
-
replacement.
Job 15. Flexible hoses
-
replacement.
Job 16. Metal pipes
-
replacement.
Job 17. Brake bleeding.
Job 18. Handbrake cables
-
replacement.
Job 1. Understanding
Tipo/Tempra brakes.
• Point
1
A: This is the standard disc/drum system used on
cars without anti-lock brakes, shown here in left hand drive
form.
1 - fluid reservoir and master cylinder 2 - servo 3
-
front disc brakes
4 - handbrake lever 5 - rear drum brakes 6
-
four way pipe union 7 - load proportioning/ pressure limiting valve
Job 1-1A
1 - front disc brakes 2
-
front flywheel 3 - front wheel RPM sensors 4 - hydraulic control unit 5 - brake light switch 6 - device failure warning light switch
7 - rear flywheel 8 - main control relay with excess voltage protection 9 - electronic control unit 10 - rear disc brakes 11 - rear wheel RPM sensors 12 - load proportioning/pressure limiting valve Job
1-1B
Job 15. Sun roof - removal and
refitting.
PART A: GENERAL
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION! If an electric sunroof fails to
work, it can be operated manually with the aid of a key
positioned behind the cover panel in the roof light
assembly. By engaging the key in the exposed drive pin,
you can turn it and adjust the roof position. Q
• Step A1: SPECIAL NOTE. Here we cover the
replacement of the electric motor (where fitted) and the
glass roof panel. We strongly recommend that any
further work, which could involve the removal of the
headlining, should be entrusted to your FIAT agent or
body specialist.
PART B: TO REMOVE THE MOTOR:
• Step B1: Close the sunroof fully and then disconnect the
battery earth lead.
Q Step B2: Carefully lever out the panel cover and remove
the roof light lens.
Q Step B3: Undo the screws and lower the panel...
G Step B4: ...then unplug the two connectors from the
other side of the panel.
O Step B5: Unplug the connector from the motor cable,
once exposed...
• Step B8: Refit by reassembling in reverse order.
PART C: TO REMOVE THE GLASS PANEL:
• Step C1: Position the glass in the fully tilted mode and
remove the mouldings (arrowed) by sliding them rearwards.
• Step C2: Undo the
mounting bolts (two
per side) found behind
the mouldings...
• Step C3: and
raise the glass to
remove it from the
frame.
• Step C4: Refit in
the reverse order.
Job 16. Front seats - removal and
refitting.
PART A: SEATS WITHOUT PRETENSIONERS
• Step A1:
Undo the screws
(arrowed) and
remove the seat
mounting cover
from both sides.
• Step A2:
Undo the four
bolts
-
two per
side of each seat
-
fixing the runners
to the floor and
remove the seat.
PART B: SEATS WITH SEAT BELT PRETENSIONERS -
REMOVAL
IMPORTANT NOTES: i) In a collision, the pretensioners
are activated whether the belt is buckled or not. They
cannot be reset and must be replaced! If the seat belt
was buckled, it too, must be replaced,
ii) Read Safety First! Steps B2 and B3.
he motor.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Handle pretensioners with extreme care
-
don't drop.
• Never cause impact to the tensioning device
-
which
could set off the pre-loaded spring.
• The components must be fitted with care to avoid
knocking or jarring.
• Detach the pretensioner if working on the seat.
• Always insert the blue safety clip before removing or
refitting the seat
• Never attempt to service or dismantle the unit
• Never grasp the buckle or the power unit
• Step B6:
...then undo the
mounting screws
(arrowed).
D INSIDE
INFORMATION:
The relay is
found here
(a).H
• Step B7: You
can now withdraw
• Step B1: Q INSIDE INFORMATION: The seat belt
buckle has a pop-out tab to show when the pretensioner
has been activated
-
and must be replaced. Job 16-B2,
part a shows the normal, non-activated position. E3
from the buckle side of the seat (5). Unclip the cable (7) from
the bracket and feed it between the base of the seat and the
adjusting bar.
Q Step B8: Undo the power unit retaining screw (see illus-
tration Job
17-C2,
part 3) and remove the unit
(17-C2,
part
2). Recover the rubber support block
(17-C2,
part 1) and save
for re-use. DO NOT attempt to disassemble the unit.
PART C: 5 DOOR VERSION, REFITTING
IMPORTANT NOTE: Read SAFETY FIRST! Steps B2 and
B3.
Q Step C1: Check that the safety clip is properly installed -
do not attempt to force it. DO NOT attempt to disassemble
the unit.
• Step B4:
Remove the backrest
release trim in the
direction indicated
by the lower arrow.
• Step B5:
Remove the seat as
described in PART
A, Steps A1 and
A2.
—I Step B6: Turn the seat over and slide it as far forwards as
it will go on its runners to provide maximum slack on the
bowden cable.
O Step B7: Using a Torx key, available from a motor
accessory store, undo the bolt (see illustration Job
17-C2,
part 6) and release the pretensioner assembly
(17-C2,
part
4)
• Step C2:
• Position the support block (1) between the power unit (2)
and the seat bracket.
• Align the power unit (2) along the seat frame and secure it
with the screw (3) and washer, tightening to 6 to 8 Nm.
• Slide the lock (4) and buckle unit between the seat base and
adjusting bar and locate the lock in bracket (5). Fix the rear
end with the screw (6) and tighten to between 35 and 43 Nm.
• Step C3A: Align
the cable's white paint
spots with the securing
clips on the seat base.
The 5 door's seat cables
should look like this for
the basic seat...
• Step C3B: ...and
the cables should be
located like this for the
height adjustable
version.
• Step C4: Position
the seat centrally on
the runners and refit to
the car, taking care to
handle it as described
in Step B3.
SAFETY FIRST!
• • Step B2: Before
starting to remove the
seat, remove the
safety clip from its
storage position (7)
and fit it into the
mechanism shown
here (6). DO NOT
remove the seat
without the safety clip
in place.
• • Step B3: When
removing or refitting
the seat, grasp the
seat at the arrow points (a) only, never where
indicated by the arrow points (b).
Also, never grasp the seat by:
• the seat belt buckle assembly
• the pretensioner power unit.
Job 16-B3
• •
Job 16-B2
1 - deceleration sensor 2 - power unit 3 - bowden cable
4 - locking system 5 - seat belt buckle 6 - safety clip
IMPORTANT NOTE: Not all of the components listed here are fitted to all models.
CHAPTER 7
WIRING DIAGRAMS
IMPORTANT NOTE: Not all of the components listed here
are fitted to all models.
IMPORTANT NOTES:
3. We have sometimes shown the wiring diagram for a
'highest' spec, model, in the knowledge that 'lower'
spec, models are usually similar with the deletion of
certain components.
1. There are several hundred FIAT wiring diagrams for
the whole TIPO range. This is a representative selection,
covering the majority of applications. However, in the
event that your car's details are not covered here,
consult your nearest FIAT dealer.
2 All of the following are Tipo wiring diagrams. Tempra
saloons and estates are essentially similar.
4. 'EEC Stage 2 Engines' In late 1994, Tipo 1.4 and 2 -
Litre and Tempra 1.6 MPI vehicles were modified to suit
new emission regulations. These changes were NOT only
engine-related. Vehicles covered by this manual are Tipo
1.4 (with engine code no. 836A4.000) and Tempra 1.6
(with engine code 159B9.000). See Page 27 for location
of codes.
KEY:
1 Left front light cluster 2 Reversing light switch 3a Left horn 4 Electric cooling fan 5 Dual contact coolant thermal switch 6 Right longitudinal cable connection 7 Right front earth 8 Right front light cluster 9 Right horn 10 Screen/rear window washer pump 11 Left brake pad wear sensor 11A Right brake pad wear sensor 12 Ignition coil 12A Ignition coil with power module 12B Ignition coil with H.T. points 13 Digiplex electronic ignition control unit 13A Digiplex electronic ignition lead connection 13C Diagnostic socket for Digiplex electronic ignition 14 Left front earth 15 Battery earth 16 Engine coolant temperature sender unit 17 Battery 18 Ignition distributor 19 Sparkplug 20 Spark plug 21 Sparkplug 22 Spark plug 23 TDC sensor 24 Alternator 25 Oil pressure switch 26 Connector block 27 Brake fluid level sensor 28 Left side turn signal 30 Idle cut-out device 31 Starter motor 32 Throttle valve sensor 33 Pulse generator for speedometer signal 34 Windscreen wiper 35 Right side turn signal 36 P.T.C. resistor for heating fuel duct 37 Thermal switch for PTC 38 Vacuum sensor for vacuum gauge 39 Fuse and relay control unit E2 Turn signal and hazard warning light flasher E4 Fog light relay E5 Horn relay E6 Heated back window relay E7 Switch discharge connector E9 Windscreen wiper intermittent function E10 Rear fog light relay E11 Dipped beam relay E12 Main beam relay E13 Side light control relay E14 Central locking electronic control unit E1-E3-E8-E15-available (unused)
40 PTC resistor activation relay 41 20A fuse for inlet duct heater circuit 42 25A fuse for electric window ECU 43 Junction between facia cable and heater cable 44 Earth on left hand side of facia 45 Junction between facia cable and left front door
G Horn button H Windscreen wiper stalk I Back window wash/wipe selector L Heated rear windscreen switch M Rear screen wash/wipe switch N Windscreen wiper speed switch cables 56 Junction: facia cable and r.h. rear door cables Electric window control unit 57 Glove compartment light bulb Provision for left front speaker 58 Facia cable coupling with right front door cables Provision for left rear speaker 59 Facia cable coupling with right front door cables Supplementary earth point 60 Provision for right front speaker Instrument panel 60A Provision for right rear speaker A Direction indicators warning light 61 L.h. button for courtesy light and electric window B Side lights warning light 62 Junction between rear cable and left rear door C Main beam headlights warning light cables D Heated rear windscreen warning light 63 Junction between rear cable and left front door E Rear fog lights warning light cables E1 Fog lights warning light 64 Left front door lock motor and left front door F Hazard warning lights warning light open warning light G Battery recharging warning light 65 Left front electric window motor H Insufficient engine oil pressure warning light 66 Electric front window control buttons I Trip counter 67 Cigar lighter J Left brake lining wear warning light 68 Braking light switch J1 Seat belt undone warning light 69 Passenger compartment courtesy light K Handbrake on and low brake fluid level 69A Passenger compartment courtesy light with door warning light lock remote control receiver L Choke warning light 70 Hand brake warning light switch M ABS failure warning light 71 Passenger compartment ventilation fan switch N Instrument panel light bulbs 71A Passenger compartment ventilation control 0 Fuel level gauge 72 Passenger compartment ventilation fan speed P Coolant temperature gauge regulation resistor P1 Engine oil pressure gauge 73 Passenger compartment ventilation fan P2 Engine oil temperature gauge 74 Heater controls light bulbs Q Clock 75 Right front door lock motor and right front door R Heater plugs warning light open warning light S Speedometer 76 Right front electric window motor S1 Speed warning light 77 Right front electric window control button T Rev counter 78 R.h. button for courtesy lights and window U Trailer turn signal warning light 79 Luggage compartment lighting X Water in fuel filter warning light 80 Left rear earth Y Excessive turbocharging air pressure warning 80A Right rear earth light 81 Rear cable connection Y1 Lambda probe failure warning light 82 Left tail-light cluster Z Excessive automatic transmission fluid 83 Left rear door lock motor temperature warning light 84 Fuel level gauge Z1 Injection system failure warning light 85 Tailgate lock/release motor Ignition switch 86 Left number plate light Available for radio 87 Right number plate light Available for radio 88 Rear window wiper motor Hazard warning lights switch 89 Heated rear windscreen Stalk unit 90 Right tail-light cluster A Rear fog lights switch 91 Right rear door lock motor B Exterior lighting selector 92 Glow plug preheating system ECU c Control lighting bulb 93 Glow plugs D Light flasher button 94 Engine cooling fan first speed additional resistor E Turn signal stalk 95 30A fuse for engine cooling fan F Dipped/main beam headlight selector 96 Switch for automatic advance
155