1985 FORD GRANADA handbrake

DOHC carburettor engine
8This procedure is essentially as described
above, noting the following points:
a)Note the plastic bush which is fitted to the
rear manifold stud. This must be removed
before the gasket can be withdrawn.
b)On refitting ensure that the mating
surfaces are clean and dry and fit new
gaskets.
c)Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound
to the manifold studs to aid future
removal.
d)Tighten the manifold nuts to the specified
torque settings.
DOHC fuel-injection engine
9Disconnect the battery negative lead.
10Disconnect the wiring plug from the idle
speed control valve at the front of the plenum
chamber.
11Loosen the clamp, and detach the air inlet
hose from the air inlet tubing.
12Unscrew the securing nut, and release the
air inlet tube from the bracket on the engine
compartment front panel.
13Release the air cleaner lid securing clips,
then lift away the air inlet tube, plenum
chamber and air cleaner lid as an assembly,
disconnecting the breather hose from the air
inlet tube.
14On models fitted with a catalytic
converter, disconnect the exhaust gas oxygen
sensor wiring plug.
15Unscrew the securing nuts and disconnect
the exhaust downpipe from the manifold.
Recover the gasket. Support the exhaust
downpipe from underneath the vehicle (eg
with an axle stand) to avoid placing
unnecessary strain on the exhaust system.
16Unscrew the six securing nuts, and lift the
manifold from the cylinder head. Recover the
gasket.
17Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
a)Ensure that all mating faces are clean, and
use a new gasket.
b)Tighten the manifold securing nuts and
the downpipe securing nuts progressively
to the specified torque (where given).
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
1Periodically inspect the exhaust system for
freedom from corrosion and security of
mountings. Large holes will be obvious; small
holes may be found more easily by letting the
engine idle and partly obstructing the tailpipe
with a wad of cloth.
2Check the condition of the rubber
mountings by applying downward pressure on
the exhaust system and observing the
mountings for splits or cracks. Renew
deteriorated mountings.
3The exhaust systems fitted in production
have fewer sections than those available for
repair. Repair sections may be fitted to
production systems by cutting at the
appropriate point.
4The production exhaust systems are made
of aluminised and stainless steel. Repair
systems are available to the same standard, or
in standard quality (SQ) painted mild steel.
5It is recommended that the whole exhaust
system be removed even if only part requires
renewal, since separation of old joints, cutting
pipes etc is much easier away from the
vehicle. Proceed as follows.
6Disconnect the battery negative lead. Raise
and support the vehicle.
7Unbolt the manifold-to-downpipe flanged
joint(s).
8On V6 models, unbolt the left-hand front
silencer mounting.
9Release any earth straps.
10With the help of an assistant, unhook the
system from its mountings and remove it.
11Renew sections as necessary. Apply
exhaust jointing compound to sliding and
flanged joints, but do not tighten their clamps
yet. Use new sealing rings where necessary
(see illustration).
12Offer the system to the vehicle and hook it
onto the mountings.
13Refit any earth straps. On V6 models, also
refit the left-hand front silencer mounting.
14Loosely fit the manifold flange nuts.
Correct the alignment of the system, then
tighten all clamp nuts and bolts, starting at the
manifold flange(s) and working rearwards.
15Check that the system alignment is still
satisfactory then reconnect the battery. Run
the engine and check for leaks.
16When the system has warmed up, stop the
engine and carefully check the tightness of the
clamp nuts and bolts.
DOHC and 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6
engines
17Follow the above procedure, noting that
flanged joints incorporating gaskets may be
used to join exhaust sections on these
models. Where applicable, renew the gaskets
on refitting.
18On models fitted with a catalyticconverter, disconnect the battery negative
terminal and disconnect the exhaust gas
oxygen (HEGO) sensor wiring plug before
removing the downpipe.
DOHC engine
Note: The exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO) sensor
is delicate and will not work if it is dropped or
knocked, if the power supply is disrupted, or if
any cleaning materials are used on it. Never
touch the tip of the sensor as this can also
damage it.
1Ensure that the engine and the exhaust
system are cold.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking”).
4Disconnect the sensor wiring plug halves by
releasing the locktabs and pulling on the plug
halves, not the wiring.
5Slide the heat shield (where fitted) from the
sensor.
6Bearing in mind the note made at the start
of this operation, unscrew the sensor from the
exhaust downpipe, and recover the sealing
ring (see illustration).
7Commence refitting by ensuring that the
sensor threads and the corresponding threads
in the downpipe are clean.
8Refit the sensor using a new sealing ring,
and tighten it to the specified torque.
9Further refitting is a reversal of removal, but
on completion start the engine, and check for
leaks around the sensor sealing ring.
V6 engines
10The sensors fitted to these models can be
removed and refitted using the information
given above, noting that on early models there
was only one sensor, which was fitted at the
point where the two downpipes meet below
the engine, and on some later models there
are two sensors, one in each downpipe.
43Exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO)
sensor (models with catalytic
converter) - removal and
refitting
42Exhaust system - inspection,
repair and renewal
4•22Fuel and exhaust systems
43.6 Exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO) sensor
(viewed from underneath)
42.11 Exhaust pipe flanged joint
A Sealing ring
B Flange
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2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Drain the cooling system (Chapter 3). Save
the coolant if it is fit for re-use.
4Disconnect the multi-plug from the sensor.
Pull on the plug, not on the wiring (see
illustration).
5Unscrew the sensor and remove it.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Refill the cooling system.
Note: The manifold heater must not be
removed while it is hot.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2Remove the air cleaner to improve access.
3Remove the three bolts which secure the
heater to the underside of the manifold.
4Disconnect the electrical feed from the heater.
5Remove the heater. Recover the gasket and
O-ring (see illustration).
6Use a new gasket and O-ring when refitting.
Offer the heater to the manifold, insert the
three bolts and tighten them evenly, making
sure that the heater does not tip or jam.
7Reconnect the electrical feed.
8Refit the air cleaner and reconnect the
battery.
All relays are located behind the facia panel.
Access is gained by removing the facia top
(see illustration).
Testing of a suspect relay is by substitution
of a known good unit.
1All models have a facility for retarding the
ignition timing by up to six degrees without
physically disturbing the distributor. The
adjustment is intended for use when the
correct grade of fuel is not available.
2Adjustment is made by earthing one or two
leads (sometimes called “octane adjustment”
leads) which terminate in a multi-plug next to
the ignition coil (see illustrations). Ideally a
service adjustment lead, available from a Ford
dealer, should be used. Cut and insulate the
wires in the adjustment lead which are not to
be earthed.
3The amount of ignition retardation is as
follows:
Wire(s) Degrees retard
earthed Carb. injection V6
Blue 2 4 6
Red 4 2 3
Blue and red 6 6 Forbidden
4Performance and efficiency will suffer as a
result of this adjustment. Normal timing should
be restored (by isolating the adjustment leads)
when the correct grade of fuel is available.
5If the yellow adjustment lead is earthed, thiswill raise the idle speed by 75 rpm (OHC) or 50
rpm (V6). It may be found that the yellow lead
has already been earthed in production, in
which case disconnecting it will lower the idle
speed by the same amount. This adjustment
does not apply to 1.8 litre carburettor models.
1.8 models from January 1987
6The effect of the “octane adjustment” leads
on these models fitted with the ESC Hybrid
Module is as follows.
Red lead earthed2°retarded
Blue lead earthed4°retarded
Red and blue leads earthed6°retarded
1Fitted to DOHC engines,the sensor is
located at the right-hand rear of the cylinder
block, behind the oil filter (see illustration).
2To remove the sensor, first disconnect the
battery negative lead.
3Access is most easily obtained from
underneath the vehicle. To improve access,
apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking”).
4Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor.
5Remove the securing screw and withdraw the
sensor from the location in the cylinder block.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, using a
new sensor O-ring and tightening the retaining
screw to the specified torque setting.
24Crankshaft speed/position
sensor - removal and refitting
23Ignition timing and idle speed
adjustments
22Engine management system
relays - testing
21Manifold heater (carburettor
models) - removal and refitting
Engine electrical systems 5•11
5
20.4 Coolant temperature sensor multi-plug21.5 Removing the manifold heater22.1 Engine management system relays
A Power holdB Manifold heater
23.2a Octane adjustment lead multi-plug
23.2b Service adjustment lead for timing
and idle adjustment
A Earthing point (coil
screw)
B Multi-plugC Cut wires not to be
earthed
24.1 Crankshaft speed/position sensor
(viewed from underneath)
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1The sensor is located in the upper section of
the inlet manifold (DOHC fuel-injection
engines) or the side of the plenum chamber
(V6 engines).
2To remove the sensor, first disconnect the
battery negative lead.
3Disconnect the sensor wiring plug by pulling
on the plug, not the wiring (see illustration).
4Unscrew the sensor from the inlet manifold
and remove it.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, applying a
smear of sealant to the threads of the sensor
and tightening it to the specified torque.
1Fitted to 2.0 litre DOHC fuel-injected
engines,this sensor is located in the top of the
fuel rail.
2To remove the sensor, first disconnect the
battery negative lead, and to improve access,
disconnect the wiring plug from the air charge
temperature sensor (in the inlet manifold).
Disconnect the sensor wiring plug by pulling
on the plug, not the wiring.
3Disconnect the fuel temperature sensor
wiring plug, again pulling on the plug (see
illustration).
4Unscrew the sensor from the fuel rail and
remove it.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, tightening
the sensor to the specified torque.1Fitted to DOHC fuel-injected engines and to
V6 engines with catalytic converters, this
sensor is located in the left-hand side of the
gearbox/transmission.
2To remove the sensor first disconnect the
battery negative lead.
3Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking”).
4Detach the sensor wiring connector from
the bracket, and separate the two halves of
the connector (see illustration).
5Unscrew the securing bolt, and withdraw
the wiring connector bracket, noting the
orientation.
6Withdraw the sensor from the
gearbox/transmission casing.
7Before refitting the sensor, examine the O-
ring, and renew if damaged or worn.
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the wiring connector bracket is correctly
located.
1On DOHC fuel-injected engines, this sensor
is located on the right-hand side of the engine
compartment where it is mounted either on
the suspension turret or on the bulkhead (see
illustration). V6 engines have the sensormounted on the centre of the engine
compartment bulkhead.
2To remove the sensor first disconnect the
battery negative terminal.
3Remove the two sensor retaining screws
and carefully withdraw the sensor, taking care
not to strain the wiring.
4Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor,
pulling on the plug not the wiring, then
disconnect the vacuum hose and remove the
sensor.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
28Manifold absolute pressure
(MAP) sensor - removal and
refitting
27Vehicle speed sensor -
removal and refitting
26Fuel temperature sensor -
removal and refitting
25Air charge temperature
sensor - removal and refitting
5•12Engine electrical systems
25.3 Disconnecting the air charge
temperature sensor wiring plug
28.1 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
sensor location - models equipped with a
catalytic converter
26.3 Disconnecting the fuel temperature
sensor wiring plug27.4 Vehicle speed sensor wiring plug
(arrowed)
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Chapter 10
Braking system
ABS module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Brake discs - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Brake hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Brake hydraulic system - fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Brake pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Brake pipes and hoses - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . .21
Control module (April 1992 on) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .31
Front brake disc - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Front brake pads - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Front caliper - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Front caliper - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
G (gravity) switch (April 1992 on) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .33
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Handbrake cable - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Handbrake cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Handbrake control lever - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Hydraulic unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Hydraulic unit accumulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .17Hydraulic unit fluid reservoir - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Hydraulic unit hoses - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Hydraulic unit pressure switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .19
Hydraulic unit pump and motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .18
Master cylinder (April 1992 on) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .27
Pedal Travel Sensor (PTS) (April 1992 on) - removal and refitting . .32
Rear brake disc - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Rear brake pads - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Rear caliper - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Rear caliper - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Rear disc splash shield - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Vacuum servo unit (April 1992 on) - testing, removal and refitting .28
Vacuum servo unit check valve (April 1992 on) - removal, testing and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Valve block and pump assembly (April 1992 on) - removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Wheel sensors - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
General
System type: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Discs all round, hydraulic operation, anti-lock braking system
(ABS). Handbrake by mechanical operation of rear calipers
System make:
Models up to April 1992 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Teves MK II ABS
Models from April 1992 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Teves MK IV ABS
Hydraulic system
Fluid type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to Ford spec SAM-6C9103-A
Operating pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 to 190 bar (1885 to 2755 lbf/in2)
Pressure warning switch operates at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 to 110 bar (1450 to 1595 lbf/in2)
Brake pads
Lining minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm (0.06 in)
Brake discs
Run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm (0.006 in) maximum
Thickness variation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 mm (0.0006 in) maximum
Minimum thickness:
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 mm (0.87 in)
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cast into outer rim (typically 8.9 mm/0.35 in)
Rear - Estate models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 mm (0.71 in)
10•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
10
procarmanuals.com

Models covered in this Manual have disc
brakes fitted all round. The footbrake operates
hydraulically on all four wheels, and the
handbrake operates mechanically on the rear
wheels. Both footbrake and handbrake are
self-adjusting in use.
Ford’s anti-lock braking system (ABS) is
fitted to all models. The system monitors the
rotational speed of each roadwheel. When a
wheel begins to lock under heavy braking, the
ABS reduces the hydraulic pressure to that
wheel, so preventing it from locking. When this
happens a pulsating effect will be noticed at
the brake pedal. On some road surfaces the
tyres may squeal when braking hard even
though the wheels are not locked.
The main components of the system are the
hydraulic unit, the calipers, pads and discs,
the wheel sensors and the “brain” or control
module. The hydraulic unit contains the
elements of a traditional master cylinder, plus
an electric motor and pump, a pressure
accumulator and control valves. The pump is
the source of pressure for the system and
does away with the need for a vacuum servo.
The hydraulic circuit is split front and rear,
as is normal practice with rear-wheel drive
vehicles. In the event that the hydraulic pump
fails, unassisted braking effort is still available
on the front calipers only.
Warning lights inform the driver of low brake
fluid level, ABS failure and (on some models)
brake pad wear. The low fluid level light
doubles as a “handbrake on” light; if it
illuminates at the same time as the ABS
warning light, it warns of low hydraulic
pressure.
ABS cannot overturn the laws of physics:
stopping distances will inevitably be greater on
loose or slippery surfaces. However, the system
should allow even inexperienced drivers to
retain directional control under panic braking.
From August 1986 the following
modifications were made to the braking
system.
a)The relays differ from earlier versions.b)The hydraulic pump is constructed of iron
rather than alloy.
c)A new pressure warning switch is used.
d)The earlier high pressure rubber hose is
replaced by a steel pipe.
To overcome the problem of excessive rear
brake pad wear, Ford introduced a differential
valve which is screwed into the ABS valve
block.The valve limits the pressure applied to
the rear brake calipers and so reduces brake
pad wear. From 1988 onwards, the valve has
been fitted during production. The differential
valve can also be fitted to earlier models. Refer
to your Ford dealer for further information.
From April 1992 onwards, the models
covered in this Manual were equipped with a
new Teves MK IV anti-lock braking system
instead of the Teves MK II system fitted to the
earlier models.
The Teves MK IV system differs from the
earlier MK II system in the following ways.
a)The source of hydraulic pressure for the
system is a conventional master cylinder
and vacuum servo assembly.
b)A valve block and pump assembly is used
instead of the hydraulic control unit. The
block contains the inlet and outlet
solenoid valves that control the hydraulic
system. There are three pairs of valves,
one for each brake circuit (paragraph c).
c)The hydraulic braking system consists of
three separate circuits; one for each front
brake (which are totally independent of
each other), and a joint circuit which
operates both rear brakes.
d)A G (gravity) switch is incorporated in the
system. This is an inertia type switch and
informs the control module when the
vehicle is decelerating rapidly.
e)A Pedal Travel Sensor (PTS) is fitted to the
vacuum servo unit. The PTS informs the
control module of the position of the brake
pedal when the anti-lock sequence starts
and ensures that a constant pedal height
is maintained during the sequence.
The MK IV system operates as follows.
During normal operation the system
functions in the same way as a non-ABS
system would. During this time the three inlet
valves in the valve block are open and theoutlet valves are closed, allowing full hydraulic
pressure present in the master cylinder to act
on the main braking circuit. If the control
module receives a signal from one of the
wheel sensors and senses that a wheel is
about to lock, it closes the relevant inlet valve
in the valve block which then isolates the
brake caliper on the wheel which is about to
lock from the master cylinder, effectively
sealing in the hydraulic pressure. If the speed
of rotation of the wheel continues to decrease
at an abnormal rate, the control module will
then open the relevant outlet valve in the valve
block; this allows the fluid from the relevant
hydraulic circuit to return to the master
cylinder reservoir, releasing pressure on the
brake caliper so that the brake is released. The
pump in the valve block also operates to assist
in the quick release of pressure. Once the
speed of rotation of the wheel returns to an
acceptable rate the pump stops, the outlet
valve closes and the inlet valve is opened,
allowing the hydraulic master cylinder
pressure to return to the caliper which then
reapplies the brake. This cycle can be carried
many times a second. The solenoid valves
connected to the front calipers operate
independently, but the valve connected to the
rear calipers operates both calipers
simultaneously.
The operation of the ABS system is entirely
dependent on electrical signals. To prevent
the system responding to any inaccurate
signals, a built-in safety circuit monitors all
signals received by the control module. If an
inaccurate signal or low battery voltage is
detected, the ABS system is automatically
shut down and the warning lamp on the
instrument cluster is illuminated to inform the
driver that the ABS system is not operational.
Whilst in this state the system functions in the
same way as a non-ABS system would. If a
fault does develop in the ABS system, the car
must be taken to a Ford dealer for fault
diagnosis and repair. The system is equipped
with a diagnostic plug into which a special
diagnostic (STAR) tester can be plugged. This
allows faults to be easily traced.
1General information
10•2Braking system
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Front caliper:
To stub axle carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 to 6138 to 45
Slide bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Rear caliper:
Bracket to carrier plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 to 6138 to 45
Slide bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 to 3523 to 26
Hydraulic unit to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5130 to 38
Accumulator to pump body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 to 4526 to 33
Pump mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 to 95 to 7
High pressure hose banjo bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 to 2412 to 18
Reservoir mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 to 63 to 4
Wheel sensor fixing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 116 to 8
Vacuum servo unit retaining nuts (Teves MK IV) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 to 4526 to 33
Master cylinder retaining nuts (Teves MK IV) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Valve block and pump assembly mounting nuts (Teves MK IV) . . . . . . .21 to 2815 to 21
procarmanuals.com

and bracket off the disc and tie them up out of
the way. Do not allow the caliper to hang on
the flexible hose.
3Remove the spring clip which secures the
disc (see illustration).
4Mark the relationship of the disc to the hub
if it is to be re-used, then remove the disc.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Tighten the caliper bracket bolts to the
specified torque, and check that the brake
flexible hose is not kinked or fouling in any
position of the steering wheel.
6Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads up
to the disc.
1Chock the front wheels and release the
handbrake. Slacken the rear wheel nuts, raise
and support the vehicle and remove the
relevant rear wheel.
2Free the handbrake cable from its clip in the
suspension lower arm.
3Remove the two bolts which secure the
caliper bracket to the hub. Lift the caliper and
bracket off the disc and suspend it without
straining the flexible hose.
4Remove the spring clip from the wheel stud.
Mark the disc-to-hub relationship and remove
the disc.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
6Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads up
to the disc.1Disc pads can be inspected without
removing the front wheels, using a mirror and
a torch through the aperture in the rear face of
the caliper. If any one pad is worn down to the
minimum specified, all four pads (on both front
wheels) must be renewed.
2To renew the pads, first remove the front
wheels, then prise free the spring clip from the
outboard face of a caliper (see illustration).
3Disconnect the pad wear warning wires,
when fitted (see illustration).
4Unscrew the two caliper slide bolts, using
a 7 mm hexagon key, until the caliper is free
of the bracket (see illustration).
5Lift the caliper off the disc and remove the
pads (see illustration). Support the caliper so
that the flexible hose is not strained. Do not
press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
6Clean the dust and dirt from the caliper,
bracket and disc, using a damp cloth or old
paintbrush which can be thrown away
afterwards. Take care not to disperse the dust
into the air, or to inhale it, since it may contain
asbestos. Scrape any scale or rust from the
disc. Investigate any hydraulic fluid leaks.
7Push the caliper piston back into its
housing, using the fingers or a blunt
instrument, to accommodate the extra
thickness of the new pads.
8Fit the new pads to the caliper, being careful
not to contaminate the friction surfaces with oilor grease. The inboard pad has a spring clip
which fits into the piston recess; the outboard
pad must have its backing paper peeled off,
after which the pad should be stuck to the
other side of the caliper (see illustrations).
9Fit the caliper and pads over the disc and
onto the caliper bracket. Tighten the slide
bolts to the specified torque.
10Reconnect the wear warning wires, if fitted.
11Refit the spring clip to the caliper.
12Repeat the operations on the other caliper,
then refit the wheels and lower the vehicle.
Tighten the wheel nuts.
13Pump the brake pedal several times to
bring the pads up to the disc, then check the
brake fluid level.
14Avoid heavy braking as far as possible for
the first hundred miles or so to allow the new
pads to bed in.7Front brake pads - inspection
and renewal
6Rear brake disc - removal and
refitting
10•4Braking system
5.3 Disc-securing spring clip
7.5 Lifting a front caliper off the disc7.8a Clipping the inboard front pad into the
piston
7.4 Undoing a caliper slide bolt
7.8b Both pads fitted to a front caliper
7.2 Spring clip fitted to outboard face of
front caliper7.3 Pad wear warning multi-plug (arrowed)
on front caliper
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1It is necessary to remove the rear wheels in
order to inspect the rear pads. The pads can
be viewed through the top of the caliper after
removing the spring clip. If any one pad is
worn down to the minimum specified, all four
pads (on both rear wheels) must be renewed.
2Free the handbrake cable from its clip on
the suspension lower arm. Release the
handbrake.
3Remove the caliper slide bolt nearest the
front, counter-holding the slide pin with
another spanner (see illustration).
4Disconnect the pad wear warning wires,
when fitted (see illustration).
5Swing the caliper rearwards and remove the
pads (see illustration). Do not press the brake
pedal with the caliper removed.
6Clean the dust and dirt from the caliper,
bracket and disc, using a damp cloth or old
paintbrush which can be thrown away
afterwards. Take care not to disperse the dust
into the air, or to inhale it, since it may contain
asbestos. Scrape any scale or rust from the
disc. Investigate any hydraulic fluid leaks.
7Retract the caliper piston, by turning it
clockwise, to accommodate the extra
thickness of the new pads. There is a Ford tool
(No 12-006) for this purpose, but a pair of
circlip pliers or any similar tool can be used
instead (see illustration).
8Remove any backing paper from the newpads, then fit them to the caliper bracket. Be
careful not to contaminate the friction surfaces
with oil or grease.
9Swing the caliper over the pads. Refit and
tighten the slide bolt.
10Reconnect the wear warning wires, if fitted.
11Repeat the operations on the other rear
caliper.
12Secure the handbrake cable, refit the wheels
and lower the vehicle. Tighten the wheel nuts.
13Switch on the ignition and pump the brake
pedal several times to bring the pads up to the
discs. Switch off the ignition and check the
operation of the handbrake.
14Avoid heavy braking as far as possible for
the first hundred miles or so to allow the new
pads to bed in.
1With the ignition off, pump the brake pedal
at least 20 times (or until it becomes hard) to
depressurise the hydraulic system.
2Slacken the front wheel nuts, raise and
support the vehicle and remove the relevant
front wheel.
3Slacken the flexible hose hydraulic union at
the caliper by no more than a quarter turn.
4Remove the brake pads (Section 7).
5The caliper can now be removed by holding
the flexible hose stationary and rotating the
caliper to unscrew it. Be prepared for hydraulic
fluid spillage: plug or cap the caliper and hose.A brake hose clamp may be used if available
(see illustration). Take great care to keep dirt
out of the hydraulic system.
6The caliper bracket may be unbolted from
the stub axle carrier if wished.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations,
but before refitting the wheel, check the
positioning of the flexible hose. It must not be
kinked, nor foul adjacent components, in any
position of the steering wheel. Release the
other end of the hose from its bracket if
necessary and reposition it.
8Bleed both front brake calipers as described
in Section 2.
1It is possible to carry out these operations
without disconnecting the caliper hydraulic
hose, but this is not recommended because of
the risk of introducing dirt into the hydraulic
system. Scrupulous cleanliness is essential.
2Obtain a caliper repair kit, which will contain
a piston seal and a dust boot. (The piston itself
can also be renewed if necessary.)
3Remove the piston from the caliper. This is
best done with low air pressure (eg from a foot
pump) applied to the hydraulic inlet union.
Place a piece of wood opposite the piston to
prevent damage, and keep your fingers clear
as the piston may be ejected with some force.
4With the piston removed, pull off the dust
boot (see illustration).
10Front caliper - overhaul
9Front caliper - removal and
refitting
8Rear brake pads - inspection
and renewal
Braking system 10•5
10
8.3 Undoing a rear caliper front slide bolt8.4 Pad wear warning multi-plug (arrowed)
on rear caliper8.5 Removing a rear brake pad
8.7 Rotating the caliper piston to retract it9.5 Removing a front caliper - note clamp
on brake hose10.4 Removing the dust boot from a front
caliper
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5Extract the piston seal from the groove in
the bore, using a blunt instrument (see
illustration). Discard the seal and dust boot.
6Clean the piston and bore with methylated
spirit and inspect them for scuffs, scores or
other damage. If the piston is corroded it must
be renewed. Slight imperfections in the bore
can be polished out with wire wool.
7Place the clean component on a clean
surface ready for reassembly. Lubricate the
caliper hose with clean hydraulic fluid.
8Fit the new piston seal to the groove in the
bore, using fingers only to work it into position.
9Lubricate the piston with clean hydraulic
fluid and fit the dust boot over the piston,
making sure it is the right way up. Insert the
piston into the bore and press it home,
engaging the dust boot lip with the groove on
the caliper (see illustration).
10This completes the overhaul of the hydraulic
components. Items such as slide bolts and
bracket can also be renewed if necessary.
11Remove the bleed screw while the caliper
is on the bench and apply a little anti-seize
compound to its threads, to avoid trouble in
undoing it later.
1With the ignition off, pump the brake pedal
at least 20 times (or until it becomes hard) to
depressurise the system.
2Chock the front wheels and release the
handbrake. Slacken the rear wheel nuts, raiseand support the vehicle and remove the
relevant wheel.
3Disconnect the pad wear warning wires,
when fitted.
4Disconnect the flexible hose from the brake
pipe. Plug or cap the open unions to reduce
spillage and to keep dirt out. Unscrew the
flexible hose from the caliper and remove it.
5Remove the two slide bolts. Lift the caliper
off the pads and bracket, at the same time
unhooking the handbrake cable (see
illustrations). Alternatively, the two bracket-
to-hub bolts can be removed and the caliper
and bracket separated on the bench.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations,
but before refitting the wheel, bleed both rear
calipers as described in Section 2.
7When bleeding is complete, pump the brake
pedal several times to bring the pads up to the
disc, then check the operation of the
handbrake.
Note: Complete dismantling of the rear caliper
should not be attempted unless Ford spring
compressor (tool No 12-007) is available. or
unless the problems likely to arise in the absence
of the tool are understood. Renewal of the piston
seal and dust boot requires no special tools.
1Clean the caliper externally and mount it in a
soft-jawed vice.
2Rotate the piston anti-clockwise until it isprotruding from the bore by about 20 mm (0.8 in).
Free the dust boot from the groove in the
piston, then carry on unscrewing the piston
and remove it. Remove and discard the dust
boot.
3The piston and bore may now be cleaned
and examined, and the piston seal and dust
boot renewed, as described for the front
caliper (Section 10).
4The piston adjuster nut seal should also be
renewed. Remove the circlip from the piston,
then extract the thrustwashers, wave washer
and thrust bearing. Note the fitted sequence of
these components. Finally remove the nut
(see illustrations).
5Remove the seal from the nut, noting which
way round it is fitted. Clean the nut with
methylated spirit. Lubricate the new seal with
clean hydraulic fluid and fit it to the nut.
12Rear caliper - overhaul
11Rear caliper - removal and
refitting
10•6Braking system
10.5 Removing the piston seal
12.4a Removing the circlip from a rear
caliper piston . . .12.4b . . . followed by a thrustwasher . . .
11.5b . . . and remove the rear caliper
10.9 Pressing the piston into the bore11.5a Unhook the handbrake cable . . .
12.4c . . . a wave washer and (not shown)
another thrustwasher . . .
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