1985 FORD GRANADA lock

1It is necessary to remove the rear wheels in
order to inspect the rear pads. The pads can
be viewed through the top of the caliper after
removing the spring clip. If any one pad is
worn down to the minimum specified, all four
pads (on both rear wheels) must be renewed.
2Free the handbrake cable from its clip on
the suspension lower arm. Release the
handbrake.
3Remove the caliper slide bolt nearest the
front, counter-holding the slide pin with
another spanner (see illustration).
4Disconnect the pad wear warning wires,
when fitted (see illustration).
5Swing the caliper rearwards and remove the
pads (see illustration). Do not press the brake
pedal with the caliper removed.
6Clean the dust and dirt from the caliper,
bracket and disc, using a damp cloth or old
paintbrush which can be thrown away
afterwards. Take care not to disperse the dust
into the air, or to inhale it, since it may contain
asbestos. Scrape any scale or rust from the
disc. Investigate any hydraulic fluid leaks.
7Retract the caliper piston, by turning it
clockwise, to accommodate the extra
thickness of the new pads. There is a Ford tool
(No 12-006) for this purpose, but a pair of
circlip pliers or any similar tool can be used
instead (see illustration).
8Remove any backing paper from the newpads, then fit them to the caliper bracket. Be
careful not to contaminate the friction surfaces
with oil or grease.
9Swing the caliper over the pads. Refit and
tighten the slide bolt.
10Reconnect the wear warning wires, if fitted.
11Repeat the operations on the other rear
caliper.
12Secure the handbrake cable, refit the wheels
and lower the vehicle. Tighten the wheel nuts.
13Switch on the ignition and pump the brake
pedal several times to bring the pads up to the
discs. Switch off the ignition and check the
operation of the handbrake.
14Avoid heavy braking as far as possible for
the first hundred miles or so to allow the new
pads to bed in.
1With the ignition off, pump the brake pedal
at least 20 times (or until it becomes hard) to
depressurise the hydraulic system.
2Slacken the front wheel nuts, raise and
support the vehicle and remove the relevant
front wheel.
3Slacken the flexible hose hydraulic union at
the caliper by no more than a quarter turn.
4Remove the brake pads (Section 7).
5The caliper can now be removed by holding
the flexible hose stationary and rotating the
caliper to unscrew it. Be prepared for hydraulic
fluid spillage: plug or cap the caliper and hose.A brake hose clamp may be used if available
(see illustration). Take great care to keep dirt
out of the hydraulic system.
6The caliper bracket may be unbolted from
the stub axle carrier if wished.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations,
but before refitting the wheel, check the
positioning of the flexible hose. It must not be
kinked, nor foul adjacent components, in any
position of the steering wheel. Release the
other end of the hose from its bracket if
necessary and reposition it.
8Bleed both front brake calipers as described
in Section 2.
1It is possible to carry out these operations
without disconnecting the caliper hydraulic
hose, but this is not recommended because of
the risk of introducing dirt into the hydraulic
system. Scrupulous cleanliness is essential.
2Obtain a caliper repair kit, which will contain
a piston seal and a dust boot. (The piston itself
can also be renewed if necessary.)
3Remove the piston from the caliper. This is
best done with low air pressure (eg from a foot
pump) applied to the hydraulic inlet union.
Place a piece of wood opposite the piston to
prevent damage, and keep your fingers clear
as the piston may be ejected with some force.
4With the piston removed, pull off the dust
boot (see illustration).
10Front caliper - overhaul
9Front caliper - removal and
refitting
8Rear brake pads - inspection
and renewal
Braking system 10•5
10
8.3 Undoing a rear caliper front slide bolt8.4 Pad wear warning multi-plug (arrowed)
on rear caliper8.5 Removing a rear brake pad
8.7 Rotating the caliper piston to retract it9.5 Removing a front caliper - note clamp
on brake hose10.4 Removing the dust boot from a front
caliper
procarmanuals.com

5Extract the piston seal from the groove in
the bore, using a blunt instrument (see
illustration). Discard the seal and dust boot.
6Clean the piston and bore with methylated
spirit and inspect them for scuffs, scores or
other damage. If the piston is corroded it must
be renewed. Slight imperfections in the bore
can be polished out with wire wool.
7Place the clean component on a clean
surface ready for reassembly. Lubricate the
caliper hose with clean hydraulic fluid.
8Fit the new piston seal to the groove in the
bore, using fingers only to work it into position.
9Lubricate the piston with clean hydraulic
fluid and fit the dust boot over the piston,
making sure it is the right way up. Insert the
piston into the bore and press it home,
engaging the dust boot lip with the groove on
the caliper (see illustration).
10This completes the overhaul of the hydraulic
components. Items such as slide bolts and
bracket can also be renewed if necessary.
11Remove the bleed screw while the caliper
is on the bench and apply a little anti-seize
compound to its threads, to avoid trouble in
undoing it later.
1With the ignition off, pump the brake pedal
at least 20 times (or until it becomes hard) to
depressurise the system.
2Chock the front wheels and release the
handbrake. Slacken the rear wheel nuts, raiseand support the vehicle and remove the
relevant wheel.
3Disconnect the pad wear warning wires,
when fitted.
4Disconnect the flexible hose from the brake
pipe. Plug or cap the open unions to reduce
spillage and to keep dirt out. Unscrew the
flexible hose from the caliper and remove it.
5Remove the two slide bolts. Lift the caliper
off the pads and bracket, at the same time
unhooking the handbrake cable (see
illustrations). Alternatively, the two bracket-
to-hub bolts can be removed and the caliper
and bracket separated on the bench.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations,
but before refitting the wheel, bleed both rear
calipers as described in Section 2.
7When bleeding is complete, pump the brake
pedal several times to bring the pads up to the
disc, then check the operation of the
handbrake.
Note: Complete dismantling of the rear caliper
should not be attempted unless Ford spring
compressor (tool No 12-007) is available. or
unless the problems likely to arise in the absence
of the tool are understood. Renewal of the piston
seal and dust boot requires no special tools.
1Clean the caliper externally and mount it in a
soft-jawed vice.
2Rotate the piston anti-clockwise until it isprotruding from the bore by about 20 mm (0.8 in).
Free the dust boot from the groove in the
piston, then carry on unscrewing the piston
and remove it. Remove and discard the dust
boot.
3The piston and bore may now be cleaned
and examined, and the piston seal and dust
boot renewed, as described for the front
caliper (Section 10).
4The piston adjuster nut seal should also be
renewed. Remove the circlip from the piston,
then extract the thrustwashers, wave washer
and thrust bearing. Note the fitted sequence of
these components. Finally remove the nut
(see illustrations).
5Remove the seal from the nut, noting which
way round it is fitted. Clean the nut with
methylated spirit. Lubricate the new seal with
clean hydraulic fluid and fit it to the nut.
12Rear caliper - overhaul
11Rear caliper - removal and
refitting
10•6Braking system
10.5 Removing the piston seal
12.4a Removing the circlip from a rear
caliper piston . . .12.4b . . . followed by a thrustwasher . . .
11.5b . . . and remove the rear caliper
10.9 Pressing the piston into the bore11.5a Unhook the handbrake cable . . .
12.4c . . . a wave washer and (not shown)
another thrustwasher . . .
procarmanuals.com

17Refit the washer, spring and spring cover.
Compress the spring and refit the circlip, then
release the spring compressor.
18Lubricate the caliper bore with clean
hydraulic fluid and fit a new piston seal.
19Reassemble the piston components.
Lubricate the contact face of the adjuster nut
with a little brake grease, then fit the adjuster
nut (with new seal), thrust bearing,
thrustwasher, wave washer and the second
thrustwasher. Secure with the circlip.
20Fit a new dust boot. The manufacturers
recommend that it be fitted to the caliper
groove and the piston fitted afterwards; it is
also possible to fit the boot to the piston first
and engage it in the caliper groove afterwards.
Either way it is a fiddly business.
21Refit the piston and screw it into the
caliper, then fit whichever lip of the dust boot
was left free (see illustration).22Renew the slide pin gaiters and apply a
little anti-seize compound to the slide pins
when reassembling the caliper to the bracket.
The splash shield is retained by the rear hub
bolts. Proceed as described in Chapter 11 for
removal and refitting of the rear hub.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
3Remove the under-dash trim on the driver’s
side.
4Remove the spring clip which secures the
hydraulic unit pushrod to the brake pedal. Also
remove the clip from the brake pedal shaft
(see illustration).
5Withdraw the brake pedal shaft towards the
left of the vehicle - through the clutch pedal,
when applicable - until the brake pedal is free.
6Remove the pedal, noting the fitted
sequence of bushes, spacers and washers.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Check the correct functioning of the stop-light
and (if applicable) cruise control switches
before refitting the trim. See Chapter 13.1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
3Disconnect the six multi-plugs from the
hydraulic unit. They are all different, so there is
no need to label them. When a plug has a
spring clip retainer, lift the clip before pulling
out the plug. To release the pump plug, pull
back the rubber boot and the plug sleeve (see
illustrations).
4Unbolt the earth strap from the unit (see
illustration).
5Make arrangements to catch spilt hydraulic
15Hydraulic unit - removal and
refitting
14Brake pedal - removal and
refitting
13Rear disc splash shield -
removal and refitting
10•8Braking system
12.21 Dust boot fitted to caliper and piston
15.3d Disconnecting the pressure switch
multi-plug15.3e Disconnecting the pump motor plug15.4 Earth strap (arrowed) bolted to
hydraulic unit
14.4 Pushrod spring clip (A) and brake
pedal shaft clip (B)
15.3a Disconnect the valve block multi-
plug. Lift the clip and pull off the plug15.3b Disconnecting a fluid level sensor
plug15.3c Disconnecting the main valve plug
procarmanuals.com

fluid. Identify the hydraulic pipes and
disconnect them from the base of the unit.
Hint: Plug or cap the open unions to keep
fluid in and dirt out.
6Remove the under-dash trim on the driver’s
side. Disconnect the spring clip which secures
the hydraulic unit pushrod to the brake pedal.
7Have an assistant support the hydraulic
unit. Remove the four nuts which hold the unit
to the bulkhead (see illustration). Withdraw
the unit from under the bonnet.
8Recover the sealing compound from the
unit and the bulkhead.
9Drain the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir.
Do not actuate the pushrod with the unit
removed.
10Dismantling of the hydraulic unit should be
limited to the operations described in thefollowing Sections. These operations can all
be carried out without removing the unit from
the vehicle if wished.
11Refit by reversing the removal operations,
noting the following points:
a)Do not refill the reservoir until the end of
refitting
b)Use new sealing compound between the
unit and the bulkhead
c)Make sure that the hydraulic pipes are
reconnected to the correct unions
d)Bleed the complete hydraulic system on
completion - see Section 2
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
3Disconnect the multi-plugs and remove the
reservoir cap.
4Remove the reservoir securing screw, which
is located just above the valve block multi-
plug (see illustration).
5Make arrangements to catch spilt fluid, then
disconnect the low pressure hose from its
connections to the pump. The hose is secured
by a spring clip (see illustrations). Allow the
brake fluid to drain out of the hose.
6Pull the reservoir out of the seals on the
hydraulic unit and remove it (see illustration).7Note the spigot locating bush on the rear
inlet union, which may stay in the hydraulic
unit or may come out with the reservoir (see
illustration).
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Use new seals between the hydraulic unit and
the reservoir.
9Bleed the complete hydraulic system on
completion (Section 2). Check for leaks
around the disturbed components.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
3Wrap a clean rag round the base of the
accumulator to catch any spilt fluid.
4Unscrew the accumulator using a hexagon
key. Remove the accumulator, being prepared
for fluid spillage (see illustration).
5When refitting, fit a new O-ring to the base
of the accumulator. Fit the accumulator and
tighten it.
6Reconnect the battery. Switch on the
ignition and check that the hydraulic unit
pump stops within 60 seconds. If not, there
may be something wrong with the
accumulator.
7Bleed the complete hydraulic system as
described in Section 2.
17Hydraulic unit accumulator -
removal and refitting
16Hydraulic unit fluid reservoir -
removal and refitting
Braking system 10•9
10
15.7 Four nuts (arrowed) which hold the
hydraulic unit to the bulkhead
16.4 Undoing the reservoir securing screw16.5a Extract the spring clip . . .
16.6 Removing the hydraulic fluid reservoir
16.5b . . . and disconnect the hose
16.7 The spigot locating bush fits into this
union17.4 Removing the accumulator
Note O-ring (arrowed)
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1Remove the accumulator (Section 17).
2Disconnect the high pressure hose from the
pump. Be prepared for fluid spillage.
3Disconnect the low pressure hose from the
pump. Allow the fluid to drain out of the
reservoir through the hose.
4Disconnect the multi-plugs from the
pressure switch and the pump motor.
5Remove the pump mounting bolt (see
illustration).
6Pull the pump and motor assembly off the
mounting spigot and remove it.
7Recover the mounting bushes and renew
them if necessary.
8If a new pump is to be fitted, transfer the
pressure switch to it, using a new O-ring.
9Commence refitting by offering the pump to
the spigot, then reconnecting the low pressure
hose.
10Refit and tighten the pump mounting bolt.
11Reconnect the high pressure hose, using
new sealing washers on the banjo union.
12Refit the accumulator, using a new O-ring.
13Reconnect the multi-plugs and the
battery.
14Refill the reservoir, then switch on the
ignition and allow the pump to prime itself. Do
not let the pump run for more than two
minutes - see Section 3. Check for leaks
around the disturbed components.
15Bleed the complete system (Section 2).
Note: To remove the pressure switch from the
hydraulic unit in situ, Ford tool No 12-008, or
equivalent, will be required. The switch may be
removed without special tools after removing
the hydraulic unit complete (Section 16) or the
pump (Section 18).
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
3Disconnect the multi-plug from the switch,
then unscrew and remove it.4When refitting, use a new O-ring on the
switch. Position the plastic sleeve so that the
hole in the sleeve is facing the pump motor
(see illustration). Tighten the switch.
5Reconnect the multi-plug and the battery.
6Bleed the complete system (Section 2).
1There are two hoses on the hydraulic unit.
The low pressure hose connects the reservoir
to the pump inlet; the high pressure hose
connects the pump outlet to the booster and
valve block.
2To remove either hose, first disconnect the
battery. Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
Low pressure hose
3Have ready a container to catch spilt fluid.
Remove the spring clip and pull the hose off
the pump inlet. Allow the contents of the
reservoir to drain out of the hose and into the
container.
4Pull the hose off the reservoir and remove it.
5Refit by connecting the hose to the reservoir
and pump inlet. Secure the hose to the pump
with the spring clip.
6Refill the reservoir, reconnect the battery
and bleed the complete system (Section 2).
Check for leaks.
High pressure hose
7Remove the banjo bolts which secure the
hose. Be prepared for fluid spillage.
8Remove the hose and recover the sealing
washers.
9Refit by reversing the removal operations,
using new sealing washers on both sides of
each union (see illustration).
10Reconnect the battery and bleed the
complete system (Section 2). Check for leaks.
1Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes for
rust and other damage, and the flexible hoses
for cracks, splits or “ballooning”. Have an
assistant depress the brake pedal (ignition on)
and inspect the hose and pipe unions for
leaks. Renew defective items without delay.
2Before removing any pipe or hose,
depressurise the hydraulic system by
switching off the ignition and pumping the
brake pedal 20 times, or until it becomes hard.
3To remove a flexible hose, first undo the
union nut which secures the rigid pipe to it.
The use of a split ring spanner, sold for this
purpose, is recommended (see illustration).
Be prepared for hydraulic fluid spillage, and
take precautions to keep dirt out.
4Having disconnected the rigid pipe, release
the hose from the bracket by removing the
locknut and washer (see illustration).
21Brake pipes and hoses -
inspection, removal and refitting
20Hydraulic unit hoses -
removal and refitting
19Hydraulic unit pressure
switch - removal and refitting
18Hydraulic unit pump and
motor - removal and refitting
10•10Braking system
18.5 Hydraulic unit pump mounting bolt
21.3 Undoing a rigid pipe union nut
Flexible hose locknut is just above21.4 Removing a flexible hose from its
bracket
19.4 Refitting the pressure switch
Hole (arrowed) in sleeve must face pump motor20.9 Fitting new sealing washers to a banjo
union
procarmanuals.com

5Unscrew the hose from its union on the
caliper and remove it (see illustration).
6Refit by reversing the removal operations,
then bleed the appropriate part of the
hydraulic system (Section 2). In the case of the
front hoses, check that they are not kinked or
twisted, and that they do not contact other
components when the steering is moved from
lock to lock. Reposition the hose in the
bracket if necessary.
7To remove a rigid pipe, simply undo the
union nuts at the hydraulic unit, hose bracket
or T-piece (see illustration). Free the pipe
from any retaining clips and remove it.
8New pipes can be bought ready-made, with
the unions attached. Some garages and motor
factors will make up pipes to order, using the
old pipe as a pattern. If purchasing proprietary
pipes made of copper alloy or similar material,
follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully
concerning bending, provision of extra clips
etc.
9Fit and secure the new pipe and tighten the
union nuts, bleed the appropriate part of the
hydraulic system (Section 2).
1The handbrake is normally self-adjusting in
use. Adjustment may be required to
compensate for cable stretch over a long
period, and is also necessary after fitting a
new cable.2Chock the front wheels, release the
handbrake and raise and support the rear of
the vehicle.
3Release the adjuster locknut from the
adjuster nut. Back off the adjuster nut,
slackening the cable until both handbrake
levers on the calipers are resting against their
stops (see illustration).
4Paint alignment marks between each
handbrake lever and the caliper body (see
illustration).
5Tighten the adjuster nut until either
handbrake lever just starts to move - as shown
by the alignment marks.
6Apply the handbrake and release it a few
times to equalise the cable runs.
7Tighten the locknut onto the adjuster nut
finger tight, then tighten a further three to six
clicks using self-locking pliers or a peg
spanner.
1Slacken the rear wheel nuts and chock the
front wheels. Raise and support the rear of the
vehicle and remove both rear wheels. Release
the handbrake.
2Slacken off the handbrake cable adjuster
locknut and adjuster nut.
3Free the cable from the equaliser yoke by
removing the circlip and clevis pin (see
illustration). Beware of self-tapping screws
protruding through the floor in this area.4Unhook the cable inner from the handbrake
levers on the calipers. Free the cable outer
from the caliper brackets (see illustration).
5Free the cable from the lower arm and
underbody brackets and remove it.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations,
but before refitting the rear wheels, adjust the
cable as described in the previous Section.
1Chock the front wheels and release the
handbrake. Raise and support the rear of the
vehicle.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Disconnect the handbrake cable equaliser
yoke by removing the circlip and clevis pin.
4Remove the centre console (Chapter 12).
5Remove the handbrake control lever boot.
6Disconnect the wiring from the handbrake
warning switch.
7Unbolt the handbrake lever and remove it,
complete with switch. Remove the switch if
necessary.
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Remove the under-dash trim on the
passenger’s side.
2Push the module upwards and then swing it
forwards to release it from its clip.
25ABS module - removal and
refitting
24Handbrake control lever -
removal and refitting
23Handbrake cable - removal
and refitting
22Handbrake cable - adjustment
Braking system 10•11
10
21.5 Disconnecting the hose from the
caliper21.7 Brake pipe union T-piece (arrowed)22.3 Handbrake cable adjuster
Locknut previously backed off adjuster nut
22.4 Alignment marks painted on lever and
body23.3 Circlip (arrowed) on equaliser yoke
Note protruding screws in transmission tunnel23.4 Handbrake cable outer attached to
caliper bracket
procarmanuals.com

3Press the multi-plug locking lever,
disconnect the multi-plug and unhook it from
the module. Remove the module.
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the multi-plug is properly
engaged before refitting the module.
Front
1Ensure that the handbrake is applied. Raise
and support the front of the vehicle.
2From under the bonnet disconnect the
wheel sensor wiring multi-plug. Unclip the
wiring, working towards the sensor.
3Remove the securing bolt and withdraw the
sensor from the stub axle carrier (see
illustration).
4Unclip the wire from the bracket on the
strut. Remove the sensor and its wiring (see
illustration).
5Clean any rust or debris from the sensor
bore in the stub axle carrier. Pack the bore
with clean wheel bearing grease.
6Renew the O-ring on the sensor and smear
it with grease.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Rear
8Chock the front wheels and release the
handbrake. Slacken the rear wheel nuts, raiseand support the rear of the vehicle and remove
the rear wheel.
9Fold the rear seat cushion forwards, remove
the side kick panel and roll back the carpet to
gain access to the sensor multi-plug (see
illustration).
10Disconnect the multi-plug, release the
floor grommet and pass the cable through the
floor.
11Unclip the handbrake cable from the
suspension lower arm.
12Remove the caliper front slide bolt and
pivot the caliper rearwards to gain access to
the sensor.
13Remove the sensor securing bolt and
withdraw the sensor.
14Clean up the sensor bore, pack it with
grease and renew the sensor O-ring.
15Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
2Disconnect the wiring plug then remove the
master cylinder reservoir cap; do not invert the
cap as hydraulic fluid could enter and damage
the reservoir level switch. Syphon the
hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Note: Do not
syphon the fluid by mouth, as it is poisonous;
use a syringe or an old poultry baster.
Alternatively, open any convenient bleed
screw in the system and gently pump the
brake pedal to expel the fluid through a plastic
tube connected to the screw.
3Wipe clean the area around the brake pipe
unions on the right-hand side of the master
cylinder and place absorbent rags beneath the
pipe unions to catch any surplus fluid.
4To disconnect the plastic low pressure
hoses, use a small flat bladed screwdriver to
carefully press the flange of the collet into the
master cylinder then pull the hoses out from
the reservoir(see illustration).Unscrew the
two union nuts and disconnect the brake
pipes from master cylinder. Plug or tape over
the pipe/hose ends and master cylinder
orifices to minimise the loss of brake fluid and
to prevent the entry of dirt into the system.
Wash off any spilt fluid immediately with cold
water.5Slacken and remove the two nuts securing
the master cylinder to the vacuum servo unit
then withdraw the unit from the engine
compartment. Remove the O-ring from the
rear of master cylinder and discard it.
6If necessary remove the reservoir from the
master cylinder and withdraw the mounting
bush seals and O-rings. Note that the master
cylinder is a sealed unit with no spare parts
available separately. Therefore if it is faulty it
must be renewed as a unit.
7Fit new mounting bush seals and O-rings to
the master cylinder and refit the reservoir (if
removed). Remove all traces of dirt from the
master cylinder and servo unit mating surfaces
and fit a new O-ring onto the master cylinder
body.
8Fit the master cylinder to the servo unit
ensuring that the pushrod enters the servo unit
bore centrally. Refit the master cylinder
mounting nuts and tighten them to the
specified torque.
9Wipe clean the brake pipe/hose unions and
the master cylinder ports. Refit the pipes to
the master cylinder ports and tighten them
securely. Push the low pressure hoses into
position and check they are securely held by
their retaining collets.
10Refill the master cylinder reservoir with
new fluid and bleed the hydraulic system
1To test the operation of the servo unit
depress the footbrake several times to
exhaust the vacuum then start the engine
whilst keeping the pedal firmly depressed. As
the engine starts there should be a noticeable
“give” in the brake pedal as the vacuum builds
up. Allow the engine to run for at least two
minutes then switch it off. If the brake pedal is
now depressed it should feel normal, but
further applications should result in the pedal
feeling firmer, with the pedal stroke decreasing
with each application.
2If the servo does not operate as described,
inspect the servo unit check valve as
describedin paragraph 3 of Section 29.28Vacuum servo unit (April 1992
on) - testing, removal and
refitting
27Master cylinder (April 1992
on) - removal and refitting
26Wheel sensors - removal and
refitting
10•12Braking system
26.3 Removing a front sensor
27.4 Disconnecting the master cylinder low
pressure hoses (A) and brake pipes (B) -
models from April 1992
26.4 Unclipping the sensor wire from the
strut26.9 Rear wheel sensor multi-plug
(arrowed)
procarmanuals.com

3If the servo unit still fails to operate
satisfactorily the fault lies within the unit itself.
Repairs to the unit are not possible.
4Remove the master cylinder (Section 27).
5Disconnect the vacuum hose from the servo
unit taking care not to displace the rubber
sealing grommet. Disconnect the wiring plug
from the Pedal Travel Sensor (PTS) which is
situated on the front of the servo.
6Working from inside the vehicle, remove the
servo pushrod retaining clip from the brake
pedal. If necessary, to improve access to the
brake pedal remove the right-hand lower facia
panel .
7Slacken and remove the four nuts securing
the servo unit to the bulkhead, then return to
the engine compartment and remove the
servo unit from the vehicle. Remove the
gasket from the rear of the unit and discard it.
8Note that the vacuum servo unit is a sealed
assembly with no spare parts available
separately. Therefore if it is faulty it must be
renewed as a unit. Inspect the vacuum servo
vacuum hose sealing grommet for damage or
deterioration and renew if necessary.
9Remove all traces of dirt from the servo unit
and bulkhead mating surfaces and fit a new
gasket onto the rear of the servo.
10Manoeuvre the servo unit into position,
ensuring that the servo unit pushrod is
correctly located with the hole in the pedal.
Refit the servo unit retaining nuts and tighten
them to the specified torque setting. Secure
the pushrod in position with the retaining clip
11Carefully refit the vacuum hose to the servo
unit taking great care not to damage or displace
the sealing grommet. Reconnect the wiring
connector to the Pedal Travel Sensor (PTS).
12Refit the master cylinder as described
above. On completion start the engine and
check the operation of the servo unit.
1Disconnect the vacuum hose from the servo
unit taking care not to displace the rubber
sealing grommet.
2To disconnect the hose from the inlet
manifold, use a small flat-bladed screwdriver
to carefully press the flange of the collet into
the manifold then pull the hose out and
remove it from the vehicle (see illustration).
3Examine the vacuum hose and sealing
grommet for damage, splits, cracks or general
deterioration and renew as necessary. Make
sure that the check valve is working correctly
by blowing through the hose from the servo
unit end. Air should flow in this direction, but
not when blown through from the inlet
manifold hose end. Renew the check valve if it
is at all suspect.
4Ensure that the check valve is fitted the
correct way around then push the connector
into the manifold and check that it is securely
held by the retaining collet.5Carefully refit the vacuum hose to the servo
unit taking great care not to damage or
displace the sealing grommet.
6On completion start the engine and check
the operation of the servo unit.
1Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
2Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 2 to 4 of Section 27.
3Remove all traces of dirt from the exterior of
the block then disconnect the motor and valve
block wiring plugs and free the diagnostic test
wiring plug from the mounting bracket.
4Position some absorbent rag beneath the
valve block then unscrew the three brake pipe
outlet unions whilst avoiding getting surplus
brake fluid in the wiring plugs. Plug the block
ports and pipe ends to minimise the loss of
fluid and prevent the entry of dirt into the
system. Wash off any spilt fluid immediately
with cold water.
5Slacken and remove the three valve block
and pump assembly mounting nuts and
remove the unit from the engine compartment.
6Note that the valve block and pump
assembly is a sealed unit and cannot be
overhauled. If it is faulty it must be renewed.
Note that if the low pressure hoses are
disconnected from the assembly, great care
must be taken when reconnecting them to
ensure that the valve block filter is not
damaged.
7Manoeuvre the assembly into position then
refit the mounting nuts and tighten them by
hand only. Taking into account the amount of
movement in the mounting rubbers, position
the assembly so that it will not contact the
mounting bracket then tighten the mounting
nuts to the specified torque setting.
8Remove the plugs then reconnect the outlet
pipes to the assembly and tighten the union
nuts securely.
9Ensure that the wiring is correctly routed
and reconnect the wiring plugs to the valve
block and pump assembly. Refit thediagnostic test wiring connector to the
mounting bracket.
10Wipe clean the brake pipe/hose unions
and the master cylinder ports. Refit the pipes
to the master cylinder ports and securely
tighten the union nuts. Push the low pressure
hoses into position and check they are
securely held by their retaining collets.
11Reconnect the battery negative terminal,
then fill the master cylinder and bleed the
complete hydraulic system using the
information given earlier in this Section.
1The anti-lock braking control module is
located behind the glovebox. To remove the
module first disconnect the battery negative
terminal.
2Open up the glovebox then, using a small
flat-bladed screwdriver, carefully prise up the
retaining clip and disconnect the glovebox
hinge arms. Withdraw the glovebox assembly
from the facia noting the plastic bushes which
are fitted to the glovebox pivot points.
3Lift the wiring plug retaining clip and
disconnect the plug to the control module. The
ABS module is the upper of the two control
modules mounted horizontally.
4Release the retaining clips and slide the
module out of the mounting bracket (see
illustration).
5Commence refitting by sliding the module
into the mounting bracket until it clips into
position.
6Connect the wiring connector to the
module, ensuring that the wiring is correctly
routed, and secure it in position with the
retaining clip.
7Ensure that the plastic bushes are correctly
fitted to the glovebox then refit the glovebox
assembly, locating the pivots in the correct
locations on the facia panel. Clip the hinge
arms onto the glovebox and check that it
opens and closes smoothly.
8Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
31Control module (April 1992
on) - removal and refitting
30Valve block and pump
assembly (April 1992 on) -
removal and refitting
29 Vacuum servo unit check
valve (April 1992 on) -
removal, testing and refitting
Braking system 10•13
10
29.2 Disconnecting brake servo vacuum
hose from the inlet manifold (DOHC engine
shown)31.4 Removing the ABS control module -
models from April 1992
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