1983 FIAT UNO wheel bolts

6Fit the main bearing caps in their numbered
sequence and the correct way round (photo).
7Clean the threads of the main bearing cap
bolts, lightly oil them and screw them in
finger-tight. Tighten all bolts progressively to
the specified torque, then check that the
crankshaft turns smoothly and evenly
(photos).
8Now check the crankshaft endfloat. Do this
using a dial gauge or feeler blades inserted
between the machined shoulder of a journal
and the side of the bearing cap (photo). Move
the crankshaft fully in one direction and then
the other to ensure that full movement is
obtained. If the endfloat is outside the
specified tolerance and new bearing shellshave been fitted, then a fault must have
occurred during crankshaft regrinding.
9Fit a new oil seal to the crankshaft rear oil
seal retainer. Apply grease to the seal lips. A
conventional gasket is not used at the oil seal
joint face but a 3.0 mm diameter bead of RTV
silicone instant gasket must be applied
to a clean surface as shown in Fig. 13.9
(photo).
10Bolt the retainer into position. One hour at
least must be allowed for the RTV to cure
before oil contacts it.
11Turn the engine on its side and fit the
piston/connecting rods as described in
sub-Section B.
12Fit a new oil seal to the oil pump, oil theseal lips and bolt on the pump using a new
joint gasket (photos).
13Use a new sealing washer and fit the oil
pick-up/filter screen assembly.
14Fit the engine rear plate and then the
flywheel on its mounting flange. Apply
thread-locking fluid to (clean) bolt threads and
screw in the bolts to the specified torque
(photo). Hold the flywheel against rotation by
locking the starter ring gear with a suitable
tool.
15Fit the sump pan as described in
sub-Section B.
16Fit the crankshaft sprocket so that the
timing mark is visible. Lock the flywheel
starter ring gear teeth, and screw in and
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•31
5D.7B Angle-tightening a main bearing cap
bolt5D.7A Initial tightening of a main bearing
cap bolt5D.6 Fitting a main bearing cap
5D.14 Tightening a flywheel bolt5D.12B Tightening an oil pump bolt5D.12A Oil pump gasket
5D.9 Fitting crankshaft rear oil seal
retainerFig. 13.9 Application area for silicone
gasket on crankshaft rear oil seal retainer
(Sec 5D)5D.8 Checking crankshaft endfloat using a
dial gauge
13

32Fit the hot air collector plate for the air
cleaner (photo).
33Refer to Section 10 and fit the distributor.
34Bolt on the timing belt cover.
35Fit the camshaft cover, using a new
gasket unless the original one is in perfect
condition.
Engine/transmission -
reconnection and refitting#
36Locate the engine in an upright position
on wooden blocks to allow for the greater
depth of the transmission flywheel housing
when it is joined to the engine.
37Make sure that the clutch driven plate has
been centralised, offer the transmission to the
engine and locate the flywheel housing on the
single stud and dowels.
38Tighten the connecting bolts to specifiedtorque, having located the lifting eye (photo).
39Bolt on the starter motor.
40Refit the cover plate to the flywheel
housing, but do not insert the lower bolts at
this stage as they retain the support bracket
for the gearchange rod.
41The engine and transmission are now
ready for refitting. The operations are a direct
reversal of the operations described earlier,
but observe the following points.
42Have the engine/transmission perfectly
horizontal and suspended on the hoist.
43Lower it into position very slowly until it is
possible to engage the driveshaft inboard
joints with the transmission.
44Continue lowering until the driveshafts
can be fully engaged and the mountings
reconnected. Remove the hoist.
45Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specifiedtorque. Note the method shown for
connecting the gearchange rod ball socket
using pliers (photo).
46Refill the engine with oil and coolant and
replenish the transmission oil.
Initial start-up after major
overhaul
47Refer to Chapter 1, Section 45.
6 Engine-
1301 cc Turbo ie
PART A: GENERAL
Description
1This engine is similar in design to the
1301 cc engine described in Chapter 1, but
the fuel and ignition systems are different, and
a turbocharger, oil cooler and intercooler are
fitted.
2Many dimensions and tolerances have
been altered for this engine, and reference
should be made to the Specifications at the
beginning of this Supplement.
3Operations which differ from those
described in Chapter 1 are given in the
following sub-Sections.
Lubrication system - description
4The lubrication system differs from the
non-Turbo 1301 cc engine in the following
respects.
5An oil cooler is fitted, which comprises a
matrix with inlet and outlet hoses connected
to the oil filter cartridge mounting base.
6A thermostatic control switch is fitted,
which diverts the oil flow through the matrix
only at oil temperatures above 84ºC (183ºF).
Note that a faulty switch will require renewal
of the complete oil filter mounting base.
7Special oil spray nozzles are located in the
crankcase main bearing webs, to cool the
underside of the pistons.
8The ball-type valves in the nozzles open
when the engine oil pressure reaches 1.2 bars
(17.4 lbf/in
2).
9An oil pressure sender unit is screwed into
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•33
5D.45 Connecting ball socket type
gearchange rod5D.38 Lifting eye on flywheel housing
flange5D.32 Air cleaner hot air collector plate
Fig. 13.10 Cutaway view of the 1301 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 6A)
13

Engine oil cooler -
removal and refittingÁ
23The oil cooler is mounted behind the front
bumper/spoiler (photo).
24Disconnect the oil flow and return hoses,
either from the cooler or the oil filter cartridge
mounting base. Be prepared for some
leakage of oil (photos).
25Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove
the oil cooler heat exchanger (photo).
26When refitting, make sure that the banjo
union sealing washers are in good condition.
PART C: ENGINE REMOVAL,
DISMANTLING, REASSEMBLY
AND REFITTING
Engine/transmission -
removal and separation
#
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
1Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35, and carry
out the operations described in paragraphs 1
to 11.
2Disconnect the excessive air pressure
switch from the inlet manifold.
3Disconnect the ducts and remove the
airflow meter.
4Disconnect the leads from the spark plugs
and the distributor LT connector, and unbolt
and remove the distributor from the rear end
of the camshaft carrier.
5Disconnect the fuel return hose from the
pressure regulator. 6Disconnect the fuel inlet hose from the
injector rail.
7Disconnect the wiring plugs from the fuel
injectors.
8Disconnect the leads from the oil pressure
sender unit, the low oil pressure switch and
the coolant temperature switch.
9Remove the hose/pipe assemblies from the
intercooler.
10Disconnect the throttle control rod at the
balljoint.
11Disconnect the hoses and ducts from the
turbocharger and the mechanical bypass
valve.
12Disconnect the leads from the engine
speed and anti-knock sensors.
13Raise the front of the car and support it
securely. As the engine/transmission will
eventually be lowered to the floor, make sure
that there is sufficient clearance under the
front end for the assembly to be withdrawn. If
the car is over an inspection pit, then the car
need only be raised enough to lift the
roadwheels from the floor.
14Remove the front roadwheels.
15Disconnect the transmission earth cable.
16Working under the car, remove the engine
shields from under the wheel arches.
17Remove the engine oil cooler, and the
intercooler.
18Unscrew the fixing screws and disconnect
the driveshafts from the flanges at the
transmission final drive. The right-hand
driveshaft will not release until the upper bolt
on the suspension strut-to-hub carrier clamphas been removed, and the hub assembly
tilted downwards.
19Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from
the manifold, and then remove the front
section of the exhaust system.
20Disconnect the coolant return pipe from
the turbocharger.
21Disconnect the gearchange control rods
from the transmission selector rod. Do this by
unscrewing the self-locking nut from the bolt
which connects the clevis fork.
22Attach suitable lifting gear to the engine
lifting eyes, and take the weight of the
engine/transmission.
23Disconnect the left-front, centre-rear and
the right-hand engine/transmission mountings.
Do this by removing the bolts from the
diamond-shaped mounting plates there is no
need to disturb the flexible mounting centre
bolts.
24Lower the engine/transmission to the floor
and withdraw it from under the car.
25Carry out the operations described in
Chapter 1, Section 35, paragraphs 27 to 31.
Engine dismantling and
reassembly
26The operations are essentially as
described for the 1301 cc engine in Chapter 1,
but reference must be made to Sections 9
and 10 of this Chapter for the procedures for
removing and refitting the components of the
fuel injection, turbocharger and ignition
systems.
Engine/transmission -
reconnection and refitting
27The operations are a reversal of those
described in paragraphs 1 to 25, but
otherwise the following (photo).
a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
b) Use a new gasket at the exhaust
downpipe-to-manifold flange.
c) Check and adjust the clutch pedal travel.
d) Refill the cooling system.
e) Refill the engine and transmission with oil.
f) Reconnect the battery, negative lead
last.
13•36 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
6C.27 Filling the engine with oil6B.25 Oil cooler mounting bolts (arrowed)
6B.24B Connections at oil filter cartridge
mounting base6B.24A Oil cooler pipe connection
(arrowed)6B.23 Oil cooler

9Turn the engine clockwise using a suitable
socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, until the
exhaust valve of No 1 cylinder (valve No 1) is
fully closed; ie the cam lobe is pointing
directly upwards. Alternatively, the engine can
be turned by jacking up one front corner of
the vehicle and supporting it securely on an
axle stand (apply the handbrake and chock
the diagonally-opposite rear wheel before
jacking), engaging top gear and turning the
raised roadwheel in the forward direction of
travel. In both cases, it will be easier to turn
the engine if the spark plugs are removed, but
if this is done, take care not to allow dirt or
other foreign matter to enter the spark plug
holes.
10Insert a feeler gauge of the correct
thickness between the cam follower shim and
the heel of the No 1 cam lobe (photo). If
necessary, increase or reduce the thickness
of the feeler gauge until it is a firm sliding fit.
Record the thickness of the feeler gauge,
which will represent the valve clearance for
this particular valve.
11Turn the crankshaft, and repeat the
procedure for the remaining valves, recording
their respective clearances. Note that the
clearance for inlet and exhaust valves differs.
12If a clearance is incorrect, the relevant
cam follower shim must be removed, and a
thicker or thinner shim must be fitted to
achieve the correct clearance. To remove a
shim proceed as follows.
13Turn the crankshaft until the relevant cam
lobe is pointing directly upwards.
14The cam follower must now be depressed
in order to extract the shim. FIAT special tool
No 1860642000 is available for this purpose,
but alternatively a suitable tool can be
improvised (photo). The tool should locate on
the rim of the cam follower, leaving enough
room for the shim to be prised out by means
of the cut-outs provided in the cam follower
rim. Depress the cam follower by turning the
crankshaft as described previously until the
relevant cam lobe is pointing directly
downwards, then fit the tool between the
camshaft and the edge of the cam follower to
retain the cam follower in the depressed
position.
15Ensure that the tool is securely located, asthere is a risk of personal injury if the tool is
dislodged whilst the cam follower is
depressed, then turn the crankshaft until the
relevant cam lobe is pointing directly
upwards, leaving sufficient room to extract
the shim (photo). A pair of angle-nosed pliers
will greatly ease removal of the shim.
16Once the shim has been extracted,
establish its thickness. The thickness in mm
should be stamped into the face of the shim,
although it is possible for wear to obliterate
the number, in which case the use of a metric
micrometer is the only way to accurately
establish the thickness.
17Refer to the clearance recorded for the
valve concerned. If the clearance recorded
was larger than that specified, a thicker shim
must be fitted, and if the clearance recorded
was smaller than that specified, a thinner shim
must be fitted. The required thickness of shim
can be
calculated as follows.
Sample calculation - clearance too large:
Desired clearance (A) 0.40 mm
Measured clearance (B) 0.45 mm
Difference (B - A) + 0.05 mm
Original shim thickness 3.40 mm
Required shim thickness 3.40 + 0.05 =
3.45 mm
Sample calculation - clearance too small:
Desired clearance (A) 0.50 mm
Measured clearance (B) 0.35 mm
Difference (B - A) 0.15 mm
Original shim thickness 4.55 mm
Required shim thickness 4.55 - 0.15 =
4.40 mm
18Shims are available in thicknesses from
3.20 to 4.70 mm, in steps of 0.05 mm. Note
that if several shims have to be changed, they
can often be interchanged, thus avoiding the
need by buy more new shims than are
necessary.
19The shims should be fitted to the cam
followers with the stamped thickness marking
against the face of the cam follower.
20After fitting a shim, rotate the crankshaft
as described previously until the relevant cam
lobe is pointing directly downwards (resting
on the shim), then carefully remove the tool
used to retain the follower in the depressed
position.21Re-check each relevant valve clearance
after fitting the shim.
22On completion, where applicable, lower
the vehicle to the ground.
23Refit the camshaft cover, using a new
gasket.
24On the ie engine, reconnect the hoses and
refit the air cleaner unit.
25On the Turbo ie engine, reconnect the air
hose and the accelerator cable.
Timing belt tensioner
and sprockets -
removal and refitting
#
Note: The timing belt must be renewed after
removal: never refit a used drivebelt. When
fitting the new timing belt it will need to be
correctly tensioned and to achieve this the
manufacturers specify the use of special tools
1860745200 (18760745300 on Turbo model)
and 1860745100. If these tools are not readily
available, an approximate setting can be
made, but in this instance it is strongly
recommended that the car be taken to a FIAT
dealer at the earliest opportunity to have the
belt tension checked and correctly set using
the recommended tools.
26Loosen off the front right-hand side wheel
bolts, then raise and support the car at the
front end on axle stands. Remove the front
right-hand roadwheel.
27Remove the underwing shield from the
right-hand wheel arch to allow access to the
lower timing cover and alternator fixings (photo).
13•38 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
7B.27 Underwing shield (A) showing
central compression pin (B) and retaining
clip (C). Drive pin through clip to remove
7B.15 Removing a shim from a cam
follower7B.14 Special tool for retaining cam
follower in depressed position7B.10 Measuring a valve clearance
(No 2 valve shown)

28Loosen off the retaining clips and detach
the air intake pipe from the air filter.
29Slide back the inspection cover from the
upper end of the timing cover (photo).
30Turn the engine over by hand to bring the
TDC timing marks of the flywheel-
to-bellhousing and the camshaft sprocket
-to-rear cover projection into alignment. The
crankshaft pulley also has a TDC timing mark
and this should be positioned as shown
(photos).
31Loosen off the retaining and adjustment
strap fixings, then pivot the alternator towards
the engine.
32Unscrew the upper retaining bolts
securing the timing cover.
33Loosen off the nut securing the alternator
and its drivebelt relay, then detach and
remove the alternator drivebelt.
34Unscrew and remove the crankshaft
pulley nut. Where the engine is in the car,
prevent the crankshaft from turning by
engaging top gear and having an assistant
apply the brake pedal hard. Unscrew and
remove the flywheel housing lower cover bolts
and remove the cover. The flywheel ring gear
can now be jammed with a suitable lever or
implement to prevent the crankshaft from
rotating. It should be noted that the pulley nut
is tightened to a considerable torque and a
strong socket, together with an L-bar and
extension tube, will therefore be required to
loosen and remove it (photo). Take care not todamage the gearbox/flywheel housing by
jamming the flywheel at a weak point.
35Withdraw the crankshaft pulley (photo).
36Unscrew and remove the lower retaining
bolts and remove the timing cover upwards
from the vehicle.
37Check that the previously mentioned
timing marks are still in alignment. Loosen off
the timing belt tensioner nut, then with the
tension released, withdraw the timing belt
from the sprockets.
38To remove the drivebelt tensioner, undo
the securing nut and withdraw the tensioner
pulley unit noting that it is in three sections
(photos).
39If desired, the sprockets and the rear
timing belt cover can be removed as follows,
otherwise proceed to paragraph 49.40To remove the camshaft sprocket, a
suitable tool must be used to hold the
camshaft stationary as the sprocket bolt is
loosened. A suitable tool can be improvised
as shown in photo 7B.48 using two pieces of
steel bar joined together by a pivot bolt, with
suitable bolts through the ends of the steel
bars to engage with the holes in the sprocket.
41Unscrew the sprocket bolt, then recover
the plain washer, and the thrust washer which
is bonded into a plastic sleeve (photo).
42The sprocket can now be withdrawn from
the end of the camshaft. If the sprocket is
tight, carefully lever it from the camshaft using
two screwdrivers, but take care not to
damage the rear timing belt cover.
43The crankshaft sprocket can be removed
by simply pulling it from the end of the
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•39
7B.30B Crankshaft pulley and timing cover
timing marks7B.30A Camshaft sprocket timing notch
aligned with timing (TDC) pointer in timing
case7B.29 Slide back inspection cover in the
timing case
7B.41 Removing the crankshaft sprocket
bolt, plain washer and thrust washer7B.38B The three sections of the timing
belt tensioner
7B.35 Crankshaft pulley removal7B.34 Crankshaft pulley nut removal
7B.38A Timing belt tensioner removal
13

133Drain the engine oil from the sump into a
suitable container. Disconnect the lead from
the engine oil level sensor in the sump.
134Where applicable, unscrew and remove
the bolts retaining the gear linkage mounting
bracket and the clutch housing lower cover
bolts. Remove the cover from the clutch
housing.
135Unscrew the sump retaining nuts and
bolts, then lower and remove the sump.
136Unscrew the timing belt rear cover
retaining bolts.
137Move the timing belt rear cover towards
the front of the car to gain access to the
retaining bolt and then unscrew and remove
the three oil seal housing retaining bolts.
Remove the crankshaft front oil seal housing.
138Note the orientation of the seal in its
housing prior to its removal. Support the
underside of the housing and carefully drive
the old oil seal from the housing using a
punch or a tubular drift of suitable diameter.
An alternative method is to punch or drill a
small hole in the face of the oil seal (but take
care not to drill into the housing) and insert a
self-tapping screw into the seal. Withdraw the
seal by gripping the screw with pliers and
pulling the seal from the housing. If necessary,
fit a second screw into the seal on the
opposite side to provide an even pull.
139Clean the mating faces of the housing
and the front of the crankcase using a suitable
scraper.
140Drive or press the new seal into positionin the housing in the reverse order of removal,
but ensure that it is correctly orientated as
noted during removal (photo).
141Refit the oil seal housing with a new
gasket and tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque setting (photos).
142Refit the sump as described later in this
Section using a new gasket. Tighten its
retaining nuts and bolts to the specified
torque. Refit the clutch cover and the gear
linkage mounting bracket.
143Fit the new timing belt, adjust its tension
and refit the crankshaft pulley as described
earlier in this Section.
144Reconnect the remaining components
that were detached during removal in the
reverse order and top up the engine oil level to
complete.
Crankshaft rear oil seal -
removal and renewal#
145If the engine is still in the car, disconnect
the battery negative lead.
146Remove the flywheel as described in the
next sub-Section.
147Punch or drill a small hole in the rear face
of the rear oil seal (but take care not to drill
into the housing) and insert a self-tapping
screw into the seal. Withdraw the seal by
gripping the screw with pliers and pulling it
from the housing. If necessary, fit a second
screw into the seal on the opposite side to
provide an even pull.
148Clean the seal housing, then locate the
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•45
Fig. 13.18 Timing belt rear cover bolt
(arrowed) - 1372 cc ie and Turbo ie engines
(Sec 7B)7B.130J Compress spring and refit the split
collets7B.130I . . . and cap
7B.140 Driving a new crankshaft front oil
seal into its housing7B.141B . . . ensuring it is flush with the
face of the cylinder block7B.141A Refit the crankshaft front oil seal
housing . . .
Fig. 13.20 Removing the timing belt rear
cover on the 1372 ie and Turbo ie engines
(Sec 7B)
Fig. 13.19 Unscrew the bolts at the points
indicated to release the gear linkage
mounting bracket - 1372 cc ie and Turbo ie
engines (Sec 7B)
13

new oil seal, ensuring that it is correctly
orientated, and drive it squarely into position.
149Refit all disturbed components.
Flywheel - removal,
inspection and refitting#
150If not already done, remove the clutch as
described in Chapter 5.
151Prevent the flywheel from turning by
jamming the ring gear teeth, or by bolting a
strap between the flywheel and the cylinder
block.
152Make alignment marks on the flywheel
and the end of the crankshaft, so that the
flywheel can be refitted in its original position.
153Unscrew the securing bolts and remove
the washer plate, then withdraw the flywheel.
Do not drop it, it is very heavy.
154With the flywheel removed, the ring gear
can be examined for wear and damage.
155If the ring gear is badly worn or has
missing teeth it should be renewed. The old
ring gear can be removed from the flywheel by
cutting a notch between two teeth with a
hacksaw and then splitting it with a cold
chisel. Wear eye protection when doing this.
156Fitting of a new ring gear requires heating
the ring to a temperature of 80ºC (176ºF). Do
not overheat, or the hard-wearing properties
will be lost. The gear has a chamfered inner
edge which should fit against the shoulder on
the flywheel. When hot enough, place the gear
in position quickly, tapping it home ifnecessary, and let it cool naturally without
quenching in any way.
157Ensure that the mating faces are clean,
then locate the flywheel on the rear of the
crankshaft, aligning the previously made
marks on the flywheel and crankshaft.
158Fit the washer plate, and insert the
securing bolts, then prevent the flywheel from
turning as described in paragraph 151 whilst
the bolts are tightened progressively to the
specified torque setting in a diagonal
sequence (photos).
159If applicable, refit the clutch as described
in Chapter 5.
Sump -
removal and refittingÁ
160Drain the engine oil from the sump as
described in Chapter 1.
161Disconnect the lead from the engine oil
level sensor in the sump.
162Unscrew and remove the bolts retaining the
gear linkage mounting bracket (where applicable)
and the clutch housing lower cover bolts.
Remove the cover from the clutch housing.
163Unscrew and remove the sump retaining
bolts and nuts and lower the sump from the
crankcase. Recover the gasket.
164Clean all traces of old gasket from the
sump, crankcase and both oil seal housing
mating surfaces.
165Commence reassembly by applying
sealing compound (FIAT No. 5882442 orequivalent) to the joints between the
crankshaft front and rear oil seal housings and
the mating face of the crankcase (photo).
166Locate the new gasket in position on the
crankcase then fit the sump. As it is fitted it
will need to be twisted to avoid fouling the oil
pump unit. Refit the retaining bolts and nuts
and tighten them to the specified torque
(photos).
167Check that the sump drain plug is refitted
and fully tightened. If the engine is in the car,
top up the engine oil level.
Oil pump - removal,
checking and refittingª
168Drain the engine oil and remove the
sump as described in the previous
sub-Section.
169Unscrew the retaining bolts then
withdraw the oil pump and intake pipe/filter
from its location within the crankcase.
Remove the gasket.
170If oil pump wear is suspected, first check
the cost and availability of new parts and the
cost of a new pump. Then examine the pump
as described below and decide whether
renewal or repair is the best course of action.
171Unscrew the three securing bolts and
remove the oil pump cover (photo). Note that
as the cover is removed, the oil pressure relief
valve components will be released.
172Recover the oil pressure relief valve,
spring and spring seat.
13•46 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
7B.166C . . . and insert the retaining bolts7B.166B . . . refit the sump . . .7B.166A Locate the new gasket . . .
7B.165 Apply sealant to the front oil seal
housing/cylinder block joint7B.158B . . . tighten the bolts to the
specified torque7B.158A Locate the flywheel, washer plate
and bolts . . .

20Release the retaining clip and detach the
wiring connector from the fuel injector
connection (photo).
21Loosen off the front wheel bolts each
side, then raise and support the car at the
front end on axle stands. When raised,
support at a height which will allow the engine
and transmission to be withdrawn from the
underside when fully disconnected. Ensure
that the vehicle is securely supported before
working underneath it.
22Unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the
front roadwheels.
23Release the retaining clips and remove
the underwing shield from the right- and
left-hand front wheel arch.24Relieve the staking, then unscrew and
remove the front hub nut using a socket and
suitable extension. Repeat the procedure on
the opposite front hub.
25Unscrew the retaining nut and disconnect
the tie-rod to steering arm balljoint using a
suitable balljoint separator tool. Repeat the
procedure on the other side.
26Note the direction of fitting, then unscrew
and remove the hub-to-strut retaining bolts
and nuts on each side.
27Unscrew and remove the anti-roll bar-
to-track control arm retaining nuts each side.
28Unscrew and remove the front brake
caliper hydraulic pipe support bracket bolt
each side.29Pull the wheel hub outwards and detach
the driveshaft from it, noting that there may be
a small amount of oil spillage as it is
withdrawn. Repeat the procedure on the
opposite side.
30Disconnect the wiring connector from the
engine oil level sensor lead.
31Unscrew the retaining nuts to detach and
remove the exhaust pipe front section or
alternatively, remove the system complete.
32Unscrew the knurled retaining nut and
detach the speedometer cable from the
transmission (photo).
33Unscrew the retaining nut and detach the
earth strap from the transmission (photo).
34Extract the split pin and detach the gear
selector rod from the transmission pin.
Disconnect the gear engagement and selector
levers from the balljoints.
35The weight of the engine will now need to
be supported from above. Connect a suitable
lift hoist and sling to the engine. When
securely connected, take the weight of the
engine/transmission unit so that the tension is
relieved from the mountings.
36Unscrew and remove the engine and
transmission support mounting bolts at the
points indicated (photos).
37The engine/transmission unit should now
be ready for removal from the vehicle. Check
that all of the associated connections and
13•50 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.22 The underwing
shield retaining clips (arrowed)
on the 1372 cc ie and Turbo ie
engines (Sec 7C)Fig. 13.25 Gear engagement
and selector lever balljoints
(arrowed) on the 1372 cc ie and
Turbo ie engines (Sec 7C)Fig. 13.23 Engine oil level
sensor wiring connector
(arrowed) on the 1372 cc ie and
Turbo ie engines (Sec 7C)Fig. 13.24 Disconnect the gear
selector rod at the connection
indicated on the 1372 cc ie and
Turbo ie engines (Sec 7C)
7C.33 Disconnect the transmission earth
strap7C.32 Disconnecting the speedometer
drive cable from the transmission7C.20 Fuel injector wiring connection
7C.36B Transmission rear mounting7C.36A Engine right-hand mounting