1983 FIAT UNO fuel cap

Idle speed and mixture
adjustment¢
29Before carrying out any adjustments, the
engine must be at operating temperature, the
fan having cut in at second speed and then
switched off.
30Release the locknut and turn the main idle
speed screw in the throttle valve housing until
the engine idles at the specified speed. This
should be all that is necessary to obtain the
correct idle speed, as the throttle valve plate
base setting is set during production.
However, if wear has taken place, or incorrect
adjustment has been carried out previously,
proceed in the following way.
31Disconnect the intake duct from the
throttle valve housing. Release the locknut on
the base (small) adjusting screw, and turn thescrew until there is a clearance between the
lower edge of the throttle valve plate and the
throat wall of between 0.05 and 0.1 mm
(photos).
32With the engine still at operating
temperature, start the engine, and having
released the locknut, turn the main (large) idle
speed screw fully clockwise to close the
bypass passage.
33Now turn the base (small) screw until the
engine idles at between 700 and 800 rpm.
Tighten the locknut.
34Finally, turn the main (large) adjusting
screw to give an idle speed of between 800
and 900 rpm.
35It is unlikely that the mixture will require
alteration, but if it does, connect an exhaust
gas analyser to the car in accordance with the
equipment manufacturer’s instructions.
36With the engine at operating temperature,
prise out the tamperproof cap, and turn the
mixture screw, which is located in the airflow
meter, until the CO level is as given in the
Specifications. Turning the screw clockwise
richens the mixture, turning it anti-clockwise
weakens the mixture. Use a close-fitting Allen
key for the adjustment (photo).
Fuel injection system -
electrical testsª
37When carrying out checks to trace a fault
in the system, an ohmmeter should be used
for the following tests.
38Disconnect the multipin connector from
the ECU, and also the one from the system
control relay, and apply the probes of the
ohmmeter in accordance with the following
sequence to check for continuity in thecables. The component wiring plug will of
course be disconnected for the test.
ECU connector Component connector
plug terminal plug terminal
1 1 of ignition coil
2 2 of throttle position
switch
3 3 of throttle position
switch
4 50 of ignition switch
5 Earth
5 5 of airflow meter
7 7 of airflow meter
8 8 of airflow meter
9 9 of airflow meter
9 9 of throttle position
switch
9 18 of supplementary air
valve
9 87 main relay socket
10 10 of coolant temperature
sensor
12 Injector terminals
13 Earth
System control Component connector
relay connector plug terminal
plug terminal
1 1 of ignition coil
15 15 of ignition switch
30 Battery positive
31 Earth
50 50 of ignition switch
87 Injector terminals
87 18 of throttle position
switch
87 9 of ECU multipin socket
87b Fuel pump (fused)
13•68 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.42 ECU and component connector plug terminals - 1301 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9C)
For colour code see main wiring diagrams
9C.31C Checking throttle valve plate
opening with a feeler blade
9C.36 Using an Allen key to adjust the
mixture (CO level)
9C.31B Idle speed base setting screw (1)
and main adjustment screw (2)9C.31A Disconnecting the throttle valve
housing intake duct9C.27B Removing the air cleaner element

Throttle position switch
(potentiometer)
90This is located on the left side of the
throttle valve housing (photo).
91Disconnect the wiring plug, unscrew the
two fixing screws and withdraw the switch.
Fuel filter
92Unscrew the fuel line banjo unions from
the filter, which is located in the right-hand
rear corner of the engine compartment. Be
prepared for some loss of pressurised fuel,
and mop it up with rags.
Fuel pump
93The fuel pump can be removed from its
location beside the fuel tank afterdisconnecting the fuel hoses and wiring plug,
and then releasing the mounting clamp.
Refitting all components
94Refitting of all components is a reversal of
removal, but observe the following points.
95Use new seals and gaskets as applicable,
noting that three rubber seals are used on
each fuel injector and insulator (photos).
96Adjust the throttle position switch as
described in paragraph 46 of this Section.
97When refitting a new fuel filter, make sure
that the arrow marked on it is in the direction
of the fuel flow.
98Apply gasket cement to the threads of the
coolant temperature sensor.
Throttle control linkage -
general
99This is of the cable and rod type. Adjust the
cable by means of the end fitting and nut, to give
the slightest play in the cable when the plastic
socket is engaged with the ball on the link rod
which runs across the camshaft cover (photos).
100Keep the cross-shaft pivots and return
springs lubricated.
Fuel tank - general
101The fuel tank is of metal construction, but
note the plastic anti-blow-back compartment
between the filler cap and the tank. This is
accessible from under the right-hand wheel
arch (photo).
13•72 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
9C.99B Throttle cable (secondary section)
and cross-shaft9C.99A Throttle cable and end fitting
(primary section)9C.95D Inlet pipe stub gasket
9C.95C Fuel injector insulator seal9C.95B Fuel injector small seal9C.95A Fuel injector large seal
9C.90 Throttle position switch (wiring plug
arrowed)9C.88B Supplementary air valve (arrowed)9C.88A Disconnecting the supplementary
air valve hose from the inlet manifold

necessary processing (photo). A conventional
paper type air filter element is used and this
must be renewed at the specified intervals.
9The ECU is specific to the model type, its
function being to control the fuel system
under all operating conditions, including
starting from cold - it richens the fuel mixture
as required but at the same time prevents
flooding. As the engine temperature rises, the
injection impulses are progressively reduced
until the normal operation temperature is
reached.
10An integral emergency system enables
the fuel injection system to remain operational
in the event of any of the following
components malfunctioning. These items are
the coolant temperature sensor, the air intake
sensor, the Lambda sensor, the idle speed
check actuator and the throttle position
switch. In the event of the throttle position
switch malfunctioning, the fuel system
becomes automatically inoperative.
11The catalytic converter fitted in the
exhaust system minimises the amount of
pollutants which escape into the atmosphere.
The Lambda sensor in the exhaust system
provides the fuel injection system ECU with
constant feedback which enables it to adjust
the mixture to provide the best possible
conditions for the converter to operate. The
fuel tank ventilation is contained within the
system. This is done by feeding any excess
vapours through a carbon filter back into the
engine intake, using solenoids and valves, as
shown in Fig. 13.46.
MaintenanceÁ
12Regularly check the condition and
security of the system hoses and
connections. Also check the system wiring
connections for condition and security.
13At the specified intervals, renew the air
cleaner element and the fuel filter.
Fuel filter - renewalÁ
14The in-line fuel filter is secured to the
right-hand suspension turret in the engine
compartment. To remove the filter, first
depressurize the fuel in the system as
described later in this Part.
13•74 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.46 Fuel evaporation control system (Sec 9D)
1 Fuel tank
2 Two-way safety valve
3 Throttle body4 Two-way vapour vent
valve
5 Vapour cut-off solenoid6 Carbon filter
7 Elbi solenoid
8 ECU
9D.8 Atmospheric air intake for air
temperature sensor (1). Also shown are the
supply and return fuel line connections (2
and 3) and the throttle position sensor (4)
Fig. 13.45 Mono-Jetronic fuel injection component locations in the engine compartment
- 1372 cc ie engine (Sec 9D)
1 Injector resistor
2 Lambda sensor signal connector
3 Lambda sensor heating connector
4 Secondary fuel filter
5 Fuel return pipe
6 Fuel supply pipe
7 Coolant temperature sensor
8 ECU9 Injector holder turret
10 Lambda sensor
11 Nut for adjusting accelerator cable
12 Engine speed and TDC sensor connector
13 Ignition control unit
14 Ignition coil
15 Diagnostic socket
16 Fuel pump relay and system relay

26Loosen off the knurled retaining nut and
remove the cover from the fuel pump relay.
This is located on the left-hand suspension
turret in the engine compartment (photo).
27Carefully pull free the fuel pump relay,
then start the engine and run it until it stops
(photo). The fuel system is now
depressurised. Turn the ignition off before
removing/dismantling any components.
28Do not refit the fuel pump relay or turn the
ignition on until the system is fully
reconnected. When the engine is ready to be
restarted, refit the relay and its cover, then
restart the engine in the normal manner.
Fuel pump and supply
system checks°
29Specialised equipment is required to
undertake accurate tests in the fuel supply
system and such checks must therefore be
entrusted to a FIAT dealer or a fuel injection
specialist. If the fuel pump is suspected of
malfunction, a basic check can be made by
removing the fuel filler cap then listening
through the filler pipe, get an assistant to turn
on the ignition whilst you listen to hear if the
pump is heard to operate in the tank. If the
pump fails to operate, check that the pump
fuse is sound and that its connection (and
also that of the relay) are clean and secure.
30The pump can be further checked by first
depressurising the fuel system as described in
the previous sub-Section, then disconnect the
fuel supply pipe at the injector unit and locateit in a suitable container. With the fuel pump
relay removed, connect up a suitable test lead
with a 7.5 amp (10 amp on models with
catalyst) fuse, in series, to the relay terminals
30 and 87, and check that fuel flows into the
container from the supply pipe (photo). If a
suitable pressure gauge is available for
connecting into the fuel line between the
engine compartment fuel filter and the
injection unit, check that the fuel pressure is
as specified at the beginning of this Chapter.
31If the pump fails to operate, check that the
battery is in good condition and that the pump
wiring connections are clean and secure
before condemning the pump. To remove the
pump unit from the fuel tank, proceed as
described in the following sub-Section.
Fuel pump -
removal and refittingÁ
32Release the pressure from the fuel system
as described previously.
33Move the front seats forward, then tilt the
rear seat cushions forward. Peel back the
luggage area floor cover from the right-hand
side towards the centre to expose the access
cover above the pump/sender unit in the floor.
Remove the access cover.
34Detach the wiring connectors from the
pump unit and the fuel level sender unit.
35Loosen off the hose retaining clips and
detach the fuel supply and return hoses from
the pump unit connections. Mark the hosesfor identity to avoid incorrect attachment
during refitting.
36Unscrew the retaining nuts then carefully
lift out and withdraw the fuel pump/level
sender unit from the fuel tank.
37Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. A new seal gasket must be used
and it is important to ensure that all
connections are securely and correctly made.
Injector unit -
removal and refittingÁ
38Depressurise the fuel system as
described previously, then disconnect the
battery negative lead.
39Remove the air cleaner unit and the
rubber seal (photo).
40Disconnect the engine idle speed check
actuator lead and the throttle position switch
lead from the side faces of the injector unit.
41Undo the retaining clips and detach the
fuel supply and return hose from the injector
unit. If crimped type retaining clips are fitted,
they will have to be carefully cut free and new
screw type clips obtained to replace them.
Take care not to cut into the hoses when
releasing the crimped type clips.
42Detach the crankcase ventilation hose
from the fuel injector unit.
43Disconnect the accelerator linkage at the
throttle lever on the injector unit.
44Undo the four retaining screws and lift the
injector unit from the inlet manifold. Remove
the gasket (photo).
45Clean the injector unit and the inlet
manifold mating faces.
46Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Intake air temperature
sensor - removal and
refitting
Á
47The air temperature sensor is located in
the top of the injector unit. It is basically a
resistor which varies its value in accordance
with the air temperature entering the induction
circuit from the air filter. The sensor can then
transmit the registered air temperature at this
point to the ECU temperature sensor (2).
48Remove the air cleaner unit and its
mounting bracket in the injector.
49Disconnect the wiring connector from the
13•76 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
9D.44 Injector unit retaining screws
(arrowed)9D.39 Removing the filter seal from the
injector unit
9D.30 Test lead connected to relay
terminals 30 and 879D.27 Fuel pump relay removal9D.26 Fuel pump relay (1), injection control
relay (2), Lambda sensor fuse (3) and pump
fuse (4) with cover (5) removed

33Detach the vacuum pick-up pipes from
the points indicated in Fig. 13.57.
34Detach the wiring connector from the
throttle position switch.
35Unscrew and remove the inlet manifold
mounting bracket-to-cylinder head retaining
bolt shown in Fig. 13.58.
36Unscrew and remove the injector cable
shield retaining screws. Detach the cables
from the injectors.
37Disconnect the earth leads and the air
intake sensor lead shown in Fig. 13.59.
38Release and withdraw the injector cable
shield from the left-hand underside of the
throttle housing.
39Unscrew and detach the injector fuel
supply pipe and disconnect the fuel pressure
regulator pipe from its inlet manifold union.
40Disconnect the injector cooling fan
thermostatic switch lead.
41Unscrew the securing bolts and remove
the fuel pressure regulator.
42Unscrew and remove the heat
shield-to-exhaust manifold retaining bolts.
Unscrew the retaining bolts at the rear and
withdraw the heat shield.
43Undo the inlet manifold retaining
bolts/nuts and carefully withdraw the
manifold/throttle housing. Remove the gasket
from the mating face.
Injectors and fuel rail
44Depressurise the system as described
previously. 45Disconnect the fuel supply line from the
fuel rail.
46Disconnect the fuel return line from the
base of the fuel pressure regulator. Unbolt
and remove the pressure regulator from the
fuel rail.
47Unscrew and remove the injector cable
shield retaining screws. Detach the cables
from the injectors.
48Disconnect the fuel rail/injector unit and
withdraw the fuel rail, together with the
injectors, from the engine.
49With the injectors and the fuel rail
removed, one or more injectors can be
removed and renewed as described below.
Note that the connecting hoses will be
destroyed during removal and these together
with the injector seals will therefore need to be
renewed.
Injector(s) and connecting hoses
50Remove the injectors and the injector fuel
rail as described in the previous sub-Section
and secure the fuel rail in a vice, but do not
overtighten.
51Cut free the hose between the fuel rail and
the injector. Make the cut in-line with the hose
and cut the hose as close as possible to the
fuel rail connection, then pull the hose free
from its retaining cap. Once the hose is
detached, the retaining cap is released.
52Repeat the procedure and release the
hose and its retaining cap from the injector.
53Whether or not the injector unit itself is tobe renewed, the injector O-ring seals must
always be renewed when disturbed.
54Check that the connections of the fuel rail
and the injector are clean, then push the new
injector with retaining cap onto the new hose.
Ensure that the hose is fully located in the
retaining cap.
55Check that the fuel rail-to-hose retaining
cap is located on the connector, then push
the other end of the injector hose over the fuel
rail connector. Ensure that the hose is fully
located in the retaining cap.
56The interconnecting hose between the
fuel rail sections can be removed and
renewed in the same manner as that
described above for the injector hoses.
Electronic control unit (ECU)
57The ECU is mounted on the top face of
the airflow meter. Ensure that the ignition is
switched off before disconnecting the
multiplug from the ECU. Disconnect the wiring
multiplug connector by compressing the tag
and pulling the connector free from the unit.
Undo the retaining screws and remove the
ECU from the airflow meter. Handle the unit
with care and if removed for an extensive
period, store it in a safe place where it will not
get knocked or damaged.
Fuel pump - removal and refitting
58Depressurise the fuel system as
described previously.
59Raise the car at the rear and support it on
axle stands. Detach and remove the
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•81
Fig. 13.59 Disconnecting the earth leads
(arrowed) on the 1372 cc Turbo ie engine
(Sec 9E)
Fig. 13.58 removing the inlet manifold
mounting bracket from the cylinder head
on the 1372 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9E)Fig. 13.57 Detach the vacuum pick-up
pipes from the points arrowed on the
1372 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9E)
Fig. 13.62 ECU (1) wiring multiplug (2) and
tag (3) - 1372 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9E)Fig. 13.61 Cutting free the hose from an
injector on the 1372 cc Turbo ie engine
(Sec 9E)Fig. 13.60 Disconnecting the injector fuel
supply pipe and fuel pressure regulator pipe
on the 1372 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9E)
13
2
3
3
1

11 Clutch
Clutch pedal - adjustment
(cable clutch)
Á
1The method of adjusting the clutch has
been revised.
2Fully depress the clutch pedal two or three
times.
3Using a suitable measuring stick placed in
contact with the floor panel (carpet peeled
back), measure dimension “X” in Fig. 13.87.
This dimension must be taken between the
centre of the pedal pad and the floor, first withthe pedal in the fully depressed position, and
then in the fully released position.
4The dimension measured should fall within
the range quoted in the Specifications for this
Supplement.
5Any adjustment which may be required
should be carried out by slackening the
locknut on the cable at the release lever (on
top of the gearbox) and turning the adjusting
nut. Tighten the locknut on completion.
Hydraulic clutch - description
6Some later models are fitted with an
hydraulically operated clutch in place of the
cable operated type. The main components of
the system are a master cylinder, with
separate hydraulic fluid reservoir, and the
operating cylinder. The master cylinder is
Distributor (Digiplex Z) -
removal and refitting#
70Proceed as described in paragraphs 14
to 21. When refitting the distributor, ensure that
the engine is still set at the TDC position. Engage
the rotor arm into position on the shaft so that its
lug engages in the slot in the top end of the drive
spindle. Align the rotor arm with the reference
slot on the edge of the distributor housing as
shown in Fig. 13.85, then fit the distributor into
position and secure with the retaining nuts
(photo). As previously mentioned, the fine timing
is made automatically through the ECU.
Spark plugs and HT leads -
general
71Copper-cored spark plugs are now fitted
to all models. The recommended types are
given in the Specifications Section of this
Supplement.72The HT lead connection sequence to the
distributor cap on the 999 and 1108 cc
engines is shown in Fig. 13.86. That for the
1301 cc Turbo ie is as shown (photo).
13•92 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.87 Clutch pedal adjustment
diagram - cable clutch (Sec 11)
For dimension “X” , refer to Specifications
Fig. 13.86 HT lead connections on distributor cap of the 999 and 1108 cc engines (Sec 10)
Fig. 13.85 Rotor arm must align with
slot (1) in distributor housing when refitting
distributor - Digiplex 2 ignition system
(Sec 10)
10.72 HT lead connecting sequence on the
1301 cc Turbo ie engine10.70 Ignition distributor and HT lead
connections on the 1372 cc ie engine
Fault finding - Microplex ignition system
Starter motor turns but engine will not start
m mExcessive TDC sensor gap
m mEngine speed or TDC sensors short-circuited
m mFaulty ECU
m mECU multipin contacts corroded
m mDefective ignition coil
m mDefective ignition switch
m mECU terminal 8 cable faulty
Engine firing on three cylinders
m
mFaulty spark plug
m mDistributor cap cracked
m mFaulty HT cable
Loss of power, excessive fuel consumption
m
mTDC sensor incorrectly located
m mFault in ECU advance angle facility

Door closure sensor
117The sensor consists of a microswitch
within the lock. The switch actuates the
warning lamp according to whether the lock is
in the open or closed mode.
Check control system sensors -
testing
Brake fluid level sensor
118With the fluid level correct, switch on the
ignition and depress the centre of the
reservoir cap. If the sensor switches are
working correctly, then “FAULT” should be
indicated on the check panel.
Coolant level sensor
119With the coolant level in the expansion
tank correct, switch on the ignition and then
pull the wiring plug from the sensor. “FAULT”
should be indicated on the check panel. If it is
not, then it is the panel which is faulty.
120An ohmmeter should be used to check
for continuity, holding the float in both the full
and low level positions.
Engine oil level sensor
121With the oil level correct, disconnect the
wiring plug from the dipstick, and then bridge
the plug terminals (not dipstick side) with a 12
ohm resistor. Switch on the ignition.
122If the red light on the check panel goes
out, then the fault is due to the sensor.
123If the light stays on, then it is the check
panel module which is faulty.
Door closure sensor
124Any fault in the lock microswitch can best
be detected using an ohmmeter.
16 Suspension
Front anti-roll bar -
removal and refittingª
1A front anti-roll bar is fitted to the 1301 cc,
1372 cc ie and 1372 cc Turbo ie engined
models. Removal of the bar on all models isas follows. Firstly loosen off the front
roadwheel bolts, then raise the front of the
car, securely support it on axle stands and
remove the front roadwheels.
2Disconnect the two gearchange rods from
the transmission.
3Unbolt and disconnect the anti-roll bar
insulating clamps from the floorpan (photo).
4Unbolt the end links from the track control
arms and withdraw the anti-roll bar (photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but only
tighten the nuts and bolts to the specified
torque with the car parked on level ground,
with four passengers and 40 kg of luggage
inside.
Suspension strut - later models
6The suspension strut upper mounting nuts
on later models also secure the brackets for
the mounting of ancillary components such as
the fuel filter, fuel system relays and fuses,
etc. (depending on model).
7When removing the suspension strut units,
it will therefore be necessary to detach and
support these brackets and their fittings
(photo).
17 Bodywork
Plastic components
1With the use of more and more plastic
body components by the vehicle
manufacturers (e.g. bumpers, spoilers, and in
some cases major body panels), rectification
of more serious damage to such items has
become a matter of either entrusting repair
work to a specialist in this field, or renewing
complete components. Repair of such
damage by the DIY owner is not really
feasible owing to the cost of the equipment
and materials required for effecting such
repairs. The basic technique involves making
a groove along the line of the crack in the
plastic using a rotary burr in a power drill. The
damaged part is then welded back togetherby using a hot air gun to heat up and fuse a
plastic filler rod into the groove. Any excess
plastic is then removed and the area rubbed
down to a smooth finish. It is important that a
filler rod of the correct plastic is used, as
body components can be made of a variety
of different types (e.g. polycarbonate, ABS,
polypropylene). Damage of a less serious
nature (abrasions, minor cracks, etc.) can be
repaired by the DIY owner using a two-part
epoxy filler repair material. Once mixed in
equal proportions, this is used in similar
fashion to the bodywork filler used on metal
panels. The filler is usually cured in twenty to
thirty minutes, ready for sanding and
painting.
2If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for
finishing which is compatible with the type of
plastic used. At one time the use of a
universal paint was not possible owing to the
complex range of plastics encountered in
body component applications. Standard
paints, generally speaking, will not bond to
plastic or rubber satisfactorily. However, it is
now possible to obtain a plastic body parts
finishing kit which consists of a pre-primer
treatment, a primer and coloured top coat.
Full instructions are normally supplied with a
kit, but basically the method of use is to first
apply the pre-primer to the component
concerned and allow it to dry for up to
30 minutes. Then the primer is applied and
left to dry for about an hour before finally
applying the special coloured top coat. The
result is a correctly coloured component
where the paint will flex with the plastic or
rubber, a property that standard paint does
not normally possess.
Rear view mirrors Á
Interior
3The mirror is of safety type, “breaking” off
its ball fixing upon impact from a front seat
occupant.
4To remove the mirror, grip the head and
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•111
16.7 Suspension strut upper mounting
nuts, showing bracket and cable clip on
the 1372 cc ie model16.4 Anti-roll bar fixing nuts (arrowed)16.3 Anti-roll bar clamp
13

REF•4MOT Test Checks
MExamine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
MIt is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test can
be carried out later to check that the vehicle
pulls up in a straight line.
Fuel and exhaust systems
MInspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free from
leaks.
MExamine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.
Wheels and tyres
MExamine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound andproperly seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged.
MCheck that the tyres are of the correct size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
and type on each axle, and that the pressures
are correct.
MCheck the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
front wheel alignment.
Body corrosion
MCheck the condition of the entire vehicle
structure for signs of corrosion in load-bearing
areas. (These include chassis box sections,
side sills, cross-members, pillars, and all
suspension, steering, braking system and
seat belt mountings and anchorages.) Any
corrosion which has seriously reduced the
thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case
professional repairs are likely to be needed.
MDamage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.
Petrol models
MHave the engine at normal operating
temperature, and make sure that it is in good
tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
element clean, etc).
MBefore any measurements are carried out,
raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,
and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allowthe engine speed to return to idle, and watch
for smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible
black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies
unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other
carburettor or fuel system fault).
MAn exhaust gas analyser capable of
measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
local garage may agree to perform the check
for a small fee.
CO emissions (mixture)
MAt the time of writing, the maximum CO
level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after
August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.
From January 1996 a much tighter limit
(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped
vehicles first used from August 1992. If the
CO level cannot be reduced far enough to
pass the test (and the fuel and ignition
systems are otherwise in good condition) then
the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some
problem in the fuel injection system or
catalytic converter (as applicable).
HC emissionsMWith the CO emissions within limits, HC
emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm
(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test
at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm;
if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, this
counts as a pass.
MExcessive HC emissions can be caused by
oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be
due to unburnt fuel.
Diesel models
MThe only emission test applicable to Diesel
engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density. The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
unloaded speed.
Note: It is of the utmost importance that the
engine timing belt is in good condition before
the test is carried out.
M
Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty
air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
advice may be needed to find the cause.
4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM