1983 FIAT UNO change time

Auxiliary control panel
(later models) -
removal and refitting
Á
61Disconnect the battery negative lead.
62Insert the flat of a screwdriver under the
trim piece at the end of the auxiliary panel as
shown and prise it free. Repeat the procedure
and remove the trim piece at the other end of
the panel (photo).
63Undo the retaining screws, withdraw the
panel from the facia. Disconnect the wiring
connectors from the panel switches to
remove the panel completely (photo).
64A switch bulb can be renewed by
untwisting the holder and removing the holder
and bulb.
65A switch unit can be removed from the
panel by unscrewing the four retaining screws.66Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the wiring connections
are securely made and check for satisfactory
operation of the switches on completion.
Heater control panel
(later models) -
removal and refitting
Á
67Disconnect the battery negative lead.
68Pull free the heater/fresh air and blower
control knobs (photo).
69Undo the two retaining screws and
withdraw the control panel from the facia
(photos). Detach the wiring connectors from the
panel illumination lights and remove the panel.
70Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the wiring connections
are securely made and on completion check
that the operation of the controls is satisfactory.
Trip master Á
71This electronic instrument is fitted into the
check panel of 1100SL and 1300SL models
from 1986.
72The device provides information on fuel
consumption, range, speed and elapsed time.
73With the ignition key turned to MAR,
figures are displayed in respect of the last
journey - average fuel consumption, average
speed and elapsed time (up to switching off
the ignition).
74As soon as the engine is started, the
instrument processes the current values to
include fuel consumption, range and the
actual time. 75Fuel consumption is only displayed when
the road speed exceeds 8.0 km/h (5.0 mph).
76The fuel range is only displayed after a
road speed of between 25.0 and 70.0 km/h
(15.0 to 44.0 mph) has been maintained for at
least 90 seconds or at higher speeds for
22 seconds.
77A reset button is provided, also a display
change button (from instant to average or
total values). Should the instrument reading
exceed 99 hours, 59 minutes or 1000 km
(622 miles) depressing the display change
button will display all zeros. Depress button E
to resume normal function.
78Refer to the end of the manual for a wiring
diagram of the check panel, incorporating the
trip master.
Interior roof mounted spotlamp,
switch and/or clock -
removal and refitting
Á
79Disconnect the battery negative lead.
80Prise free the lamp unit from its aperture
in the roof panel using a thin-bladed
screwdriver. The lamp bulb can be inspected
by untwisting the holder and withdrawing it
from the rear of the unit (photos). Extract the
bulb from the holder if it requires renewal.
81To remove the lamp switch from the
panel, reach through the lamp aperture and
press it free from the roof panel (photo).
Detach the wiring connectors.
82To remove the clock, reach through the
lamp aperture and undo the retaining screws
(photo). Withdraw the clock and detach the
wiring connectors.
13•108 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
15.69B . . . and withdraw the heater control
panel15.69A . . . undo the retaining screws
(arrowed)15.68 Remove the control knobs . . .
15.63 . . . and withdraw the auxiliary
control panel
15.62 Prise free the trim covers for access
to retaining screws . . .15.59B . . . and disconnect the
speedometer cable15.59A . . . withdraw the instrument
panel . . .

Door closure sensor
117The sensor consists of a microswitch
within the lock. The switch actuates the
warning lamp according to whether the lock is
in the open or closed mode.
Check control system sensors -
testing
Brake fluid level sensor
118With the fluid level correct, switch on the
ignition and depress the centre of the
reservoir cap. If the sensor switches are
working correctly, then “FAULT” should be
indicated on the check panel.
Coolant level sensor
119With the coolant level in the expansion
tank correct, switch on the ignition and then
pull the wiring plug from the sensor. “FAULT”
should be indicated on the check panel. If it is
not, then it is the panel which is faulty.
120An ohmmeter should be used to check
for continuity, holding the float in both the full
and low level positions.
Engine oil level sensor
121With the oil level correct, disconnect the
wiring plug from the dipstick, and then bridge
the plug terminals (not dipstick side) with a 12
ohm resistor. Switch on the ignition.
122If the red light on the check panel goes
out, then the fault is due to the sensor.
123If the light stays on, then it is the check
panel module which is faulty.
Door closure sensor
124Any fault in the lock microswitch can best
be detected using an ohmmeter.
16 Suspension
Front anti-roll bar -
removal and refittingª
1A front anti-roll bar is fitted to the 1301 cc,
1372 cc ie and 1372 cc Turbo ie engined
models. Removal of the bar on all models isas follows. Firstly loosen off the front
roadwheel bolts, then raise the front of the
car, securely support it on axle stands and
remove the front roadwheels.
2Disconnect the two gearchange rods from
the transmission.
3Unbolt and disconnect the anti-roll bar
insulating clamps from the floorpan (photo).
4Unbolt the end links from the track control
arms and withdraw the anti-roll bar (photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but only
tighten the nuts and bolts to the specified
torque with the car parked on level ground,
with four passengers and 40 kg of luggage
inside.
Suspension strut - later models
6The suspension strut upper mounting nuts
on later models also secure the brackets for
the mounting of ancillary components such as
the fuel filter, fuel system relays and fuses,
etc. (depending on model).
7When removing the suspension strut units,
it will therefore be necessary to detach and
support these brackets and their fittings
(photo).
17 Bodywork
Plastic components
1With the use of more and more plastic
body components by the vehicle
manufacturers (e.g. bumpers, spoilers, and in
some cases major body panels), rectification
of more serious damage to such items has
become a matter of either entrusting repair
work to a specialist in this field, or renewing
complete components. Repair of such
damage by the DIY owner is not really
feasible owing to the cost of the equipment
and materials required for effecting such
repairs. The basic technique involves making
a groove along the line of the crack in the
plastic using a rotary burr in a power drill. The
damaged part is then welded back togetherby using a hot air gun to heat up and fuse a
plastic filler rod into the groove. Any excess
plastic is then removed and the area rubbed
down to a smooth finish. It is important that a
filler rod of the correct plastic is used, as
body components can be made of a variety
of different types (e.g. polycarbonate, ABS,
polypropylene). Damage of a less serious
nature (abrasions, minor cracks, etc.) can be
repaired by the DIY owner using a two-part
epoxy filler repair material. Once mixed in
equal proportions, this is used in similar
fashion to the bodywork filler used on metal
panels. The filler is usually cured in twenty to
thirty minutes, ready for sanding and
painting.
2If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for
finishing which is compatible with the type of
plastic used. At one time the use of a
universal paint was not possible owing to the
complex range of plastics encountered in
body component applications. Standard
paints, generally speaking, will not bond to
plastic or rubber satisfactorily. However, it is
now possible to obtain a plastic body parts
finishing kit which consists of a pre-primer
treatment, a primer and coloured top coat.
Full instructions are normally supplied with a
kit, but basically the method of use is to first
apply the pre-primer to the component
concerned and allow it to dry for up to
30 minutes. Then the primer is applied and
left to dry for about an hour before finally
applying the special coloured top coat. The
result is a correctly coloured component
where the paint will flex with the plastic or
rubber, a property that standard paint does
not normally possess.
Rear view mirrors Á
Interior
3The mirror is of safety type, “breaking” off
its ball fixing upon impact from a front seat
occupant.
4To remove the mirror, grip the head and
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•111
16.7 Suspension strut upper mounting
nuts, showing bracket and cable clip on
the 1372 cc ie model16.4 Anti-roll bar fixing nuts (arrowed)16.3 Anti-roll bar clamp
13