1982 CHEVROLET CAMARO oil temperature

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 386
FUEL INJECTION

1. Remove the air cleaner.
2. Drain the radiator.
3. Disconnect: a. Battery cables at the battery.
b. Upper radiator and heater hoses at the manifold.
c. Crankcase ventilation hoses as required.
d. Fuel line at the carburetor.
e. Accelerator linkage.
f. Vacuum hose at the distributor, if equipped.
g. Power brake hose at the car buretor base or manifold, if
applicable.
h. Temperature sending switch wires.
4. Remove the distributor cap and scribe the rotor position relative to the
distributor body, and engine.
5. Remove the distributor.
6. If applicable, remove the alternator upper bracket. As required, remove
the air cleaner bracket, and accelerator bellcrank.
7. Remove the manifold-to-head attachi ng bolts, then remove the manifold
and carburetor as an assembly.
8. Mark and disconnect all emission re lated items (e.g.: wiring, vacuum
hoses, etc.) which are connected to manifold mounted items.
9. If the manifold is to be replaced , transfer the carburetor (and mounting
studs), water outlet and thermostat (use a new gasket) heater hose
adapter, EGR valve (use new gasket) and, if applicable, TVS switch(s)
and the choke coil.
To install: 10. Before installing the manifold, thoroughly clean the gasket and sealing
surfaces of the cylinder heads and manifold.
11. Install the manifold end seals, folding the tabs if applicable, and the
manifold/head gaskets, using a s ealing compound around the water
passages.
Make sure that the new manifold gaskets match the old ones EXACTLY.
12. When installing the manifold, care should be taken not to dislocate the
end seals. It is helpful to use a pilo t in the distributor opening. Tighten the
manifold bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) for 5.0L or 20-25 ft. lbs. (27-34 Nm)
for 2.8L in the sequence illustrated.
13. Install the distributor with the rotor in its original location as indicated by
the scribe line. If the engi ne has been disturbed, refer to the previous
Distributor Removal and Installation procedure.
14. If applicable, install the alter nator upper bracket and adjust the belt
tension.
15. Connect all disconnected components at their original locations.
16. Fill the cooling system, start the engine, check for leaks and adjust the
ignition timing and carburetor idle speed and mixture.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 466
wear. Worn piston rings, scored or wo
rn cylinder bores, blown head gaskets,
sticking or burnt valves, and worn valve seats are all possible culprits. A check
of each cylinder's compression will help locate the problem.
A screw-in type compression gauge is more accurate than the type you simply
hold against the spark plug hole. Although it takes slightly longer to use, it's
worth the effort to obtain a more accurate reading.
1. Make sure that the proper amount and viscosity of engine oil is in the
crankcase, then ensure the battery is fully charged.
2. Warm-up the engine to normal operat ing temperature, then shut the
engine OFF.
3. Disable the ignition system.
4. Label and disconnect all of the spark plug wires from the plugs.
5. Thoroughly clean the cylinder h ead area around the spark plug ports,
then remove the spark plugs.
6. Set the throttle plate to the fully open (wide-open throttle) position. You
can block the accelerator linkage open for this, or you can have an
assistant fully depress the accelerator pedal.

Fig. 1: A screw-in type compression gauge is more accurate and easier to use
without an assistant
7. Install a screw-in type compression gauge into the No. 1 spark plug hole
until the fitting is snug.
WARNING - Be careful not to crossthread the spark plug hole.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 467
8. According to the tool manufacture
r's instructions, connect a remote
starting switch to the starting circuit.
9. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, use the remote starting
switch to crank the engine through at least five compression strokes
(approximately 5 seconds of cranking) and record the highest reading on
the gauge.
10. Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the
same number of compression stroke s and/or time as the first.
11. Compare the highest readi ngs from each cylinder to that of the others.
The indicated compression pre ssures are considered within
specifications if the lo west reading cylinder is within 75 percent of the
pressure recorded for the highest readi ng cylinder. For example, if your
highest reading cylinder pressure was 150 psi (1034 kPa), then 75
percent of that would be 113 psi (779 kPa). So the lowest reading
cylinder should be no less than 113 psi (779 kPa).
12. If a cylinder exhibits an unusually low compression reading, pour a
tablespoon of clean engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug
hole and repeat the compression tes t. If the compression rises after
adding oil, it means that the cylinder's piston rings and/or cylinder bore
are damaged or worn. If the pressure re mains low, the valves may not be
seating properly (a valve job is needed), or the head gasket may be
blown near that cylinder. If compressi on in any two adjacent cylinders is
low, and if the addition of oil doesn' t help raise compression, there is
leakage past the head gasket. Oil and coolant in the combustion
chamber, combined with blue or const ant white smoke from the tail pipe,
are symptoms of this pr oblem. However, don't be alarmed by the normal
white smoke emitted from the tail pipe during engine warm-up or from
cold weather driving. There may be evidence of water droplets on the
engine dipstick and/or oil droplets in the cooling system if a head gasket
is blown.
OIL PRESSURE TEST
Check for proper oil pressu re at the sending unit passage with an externally
mounted mechanical oil pressure gauge (a s opposed to relying on a factory
installed dash-mounted gauge). A tachom eter may also be needed, as some
specifications may require running the engine at a specific rpm.
1. With the engine cold, locate and remo ve the oil pressure sending unit.
2. Following the manufacturer's inst ructions, connect a mechanical oil
pressure gauge and, if necessary, a tachometer to the engine.
3. Start the engine and allow it to idle.
4. Check the oil pressure reading when cold and record the number. You
may need to run the engine at a specified rpm, so check the
specifications chart located earlier in this section.
5. Run the engine until normal operati ng temperature is reached (upper
radiator hose will feel warm).
6. Check the oil pressure reading agai n with the engine hot and record the
number. Turn the engine OFF.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 477
Most cylinder heads these days are made of
an aluminum alloy due to its light
weight, durability and heat transfer qualit ies. However, cast iron was the
material of choice in the past, and is st ill used on many vehicles today. Whether
made from aluminum or iron, all cylinder heads hav e valves and seats. Some
use two valves per cylinder, while the more hi-tech engines will utilize a multi-
valve configuration using 3, 4 and
even 5 valves per cylinder. When the va lve contacts the seat, it does so on
precision machined surfaces, which seal s the combustion chamber. All cylinder
heads have a valve guide for each valve. The guide centers the valve to the
seat and allows it to move up and down within it. The clearance between the
valve and guide can be critical. Too much clearance and the engine may
consume oil, lose vacuum and/or damage the seat. Too little, and the valve can
stick in the guide causing t he engine to run poorly if at all, and possibly causing
severe damage. The last component all cylinder heads have are valve springs.
The spring holds the valve against its s eat. It also returns the valve to this
position when the valve has been opened by the valve train or camshaft. The
spring is fastened to the valve by a retainer and valve locks (sometime\
s called
keepers). Aluminum heads will also have a valve spring shim to keep the spring
from wearing away the aluminum.
An ideal method of rebuilding the cylin der head would involve replacing all of
the valves, guides, seats, springs, et c. with new ones. However, depending on
how the engine was maintained, often this is not necessary. A major cause of
valve, guide and seat wear is an improperly tuned engine. An engine that is
running too rich, will often wash the lubric ating oil out of the guide with gasoline,
causing it to wear rapidly. Conversely, an engine which is running too lean will
place higher combustion temperatures on the valves and seats allowing them to
wear or even burn. Springs fall victim to the driving habits of the individual. A
driver who often runs the engine rpm to the redline will wear out or break the
springs faster then one that stays well below it. Unfortunately, mileage takes it
toll on all of the parts. G enerally, the valves, guides, springs and seats in a
cylinder head can be machined and re-used, saving you money. However, if a
valve is burnt, it may be wise to replace all of the valves, since they were all
operating in the same environment. The same goes for any other component\
on
the cylinder head. Think of it as an insurance policy against future problems
related to that component.
Unfortunately, the only way to find out wh ich components need replacing, is to
disassemble and carefully check each piece. After the cylinder head(s) are
disassembled, thoroughly clean all of the components.
DISASSEMBLY
Before disassembling the cylinder head, you may want to fabricate some
containers to hold the various parts, as some of them can be quite small (such
as keepers) and easily lost. Also keeping yourself and the components
organized will aid in assembly and reduce confusion. Where possible, try to
maintain a components original location; th is is especially important if there is
not going to be any machine work performed on the components.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 513
1. Connect the vehicle battery.
2. Start the engine. Keep y
our eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does
not indicate oil pressure within 10 se conds of starting, turn the vehicle
off.
WARNING - Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil
pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any
leaks and if found, repair the leaks be fore continuing. If there is still no
indication of oil pressure, y ou may need to prime the system.
3. Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
4. Allow the engine to reach nor mal operating temperature (the upper
radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
5. If necessary, set the ignition timing.
6. Install any remaining components such as the air cleaner (if removed for
ignition timing) or body panels which were removed.
BREAKING IT IN
Make the first miles on the new engine , easy ones. Vary the speed but do not
accelerate hard. Most importantly, do not lug the engine, and avoid sustained
high speeds until at least 100 miles. Ch eck the engine oil and coolant levels
frequently. Expect the engine to use a littl e oil until the rings seat. Change the
oil and filter at 500 miles, 1500 mile s, then every 3000 miles past that.
KEEP IT MAINTAINED
Now that you have just gone through all of that hard work, keep yourself from
doing it all over again by thoroughly maintaining it. Not that you may not have
maintained it before, heck you c ould have had one to two hundred thousand
miles on it before doing this. However, you may have bought the vehicle used,
and the previous owner did not keep up on maintenance. Which is why you just
went through all of that hard work. See?

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 669
1. Disconnect the pressure gauge. R
un the fuel line into a graduated
container.
2. Run the engine at idle until one pint of gasoline has been pumped. One
pint should be delivered in 30 seconds or less. There is normally enough
fuel in the carburetor float bowl to perform this test, but refill it if
necessary.
3. If the delivery rate is below the mini mum, check the lines for restrictions
or leaks, then r eplace the pump.
CARBURETORS
The V6 engine is equipped with the Ro chester E2SE carburetor, V8 engines
use the E4ME and E4MC. These carburet ors are of the downdraft design and
are used in conjunction with the CCC system for fuel cont rol. They have special
design features for optimum air/fuel mixt ure control during all ranges of engine
operation.
An electric solenoid in the carburetor controls the air/fu el ratio. The solenoid is
connected to an Electronic Control Module (ECM) which is an on-board
computer. The ECM provides a controllin g signal to the solenoid. The solenoid
controls the metering rod(s) and an id le air bleed valve, thereby closely
controlling the air/fuel ratio throughout the operating range of the engine.
MODEL IDENTIFICATION
General Motors Rochester carburetors ar e identified by their model code. The
first number indicates the number of ba rrels, while one of the last letters
indicates the type of choke used. These are V for the manifold mounted choke
coil, C for the choke coil mounted in the carburetor body, and E for electric
choke, also mounted on the carburetor. Model codes ending in A indicate an
altitude-compensatin g carburetor.
Because of their intricate nature and co mputer controls, the E2SE, E4ME and
E4MC carburetors should only be se rviced by a qualified technician.
PRELIMINARY CHECKS
The following should be observed befor e attempting any adjustments.
1. Thoroughly warm the engine. If the engine is cold, be sure that it reaches
operating temperature.
2. Check the torque of all carburet or mounting nuts and assembly screws.
Also check the intake manifold-to-cyli nder head bolts. If air is leaking at
any of these points, any attempts at adjustment will inevitably lead to
frustration.
3. Check the manifold heat control valve (if used) to be sure that it is free.
4. Check and adjust the choke as necessary.
5. Adjust the idle speed and mixture. If the mixture screws are capped,
don't adjust them unless all other c auses of rough idle have been
eliminated. If any adjustments are per formed that might possibly change

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 776
Use only oil which has the API (Ameri
can Petroleum Institute) designation SG,
CC , CD , SG/CC or SG/CD .
Since fuel economy is effected by the viscosity (thickness) of the engine oil, it is
recommended to select an oil with reference to the outside temperature. For
satisfactory lubrication, us e a lower viscosity oil for colder temperatures and a
higher viscosity oil for warmer temperatures.
ENGINE
OIL LEVEL CHECK

Fig. 1: Wipe the dipstick clean and insert it into the dipstick tube, making sure it
is fully inserted

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 778

Fig. 4: Add clean oil to the engine to ac hieve the correct level, indicated on
dipstick. Do not overfill
Your engine oil should be checked at regular intervals (such as every fuel stop).
Check the engine oil as follows:
1. Make sure the car is parked on level ground.
2. When checking the oil le vel it is best for the engine to be at normal
operating temperature, although checking the oil immediately after
stopping will lead to a false reading. Wa it a few minutes after turning off
the engine to allow the oil to drain back into the crankcase.
3. Open the hood and locate the dipsti ck which should be on either the
passenger's side for the V8 engine or driver's side for the L4 and V6
engines. Pull the dipstick fr om its tube, wipe it clean and then reinsert it.
4. Pull the dipstick out agai n and, holding it horizontally, read the oil level.
The oil should be between the FULL and ADD marks on the dipstick. If
the oil is below the ADD mark, add oil of the prop er viscosity through the
capped opening in the top of the cylinder head cover.
5. Replace the dipstick and check the o il level again after adding any oil. Be
careful not to overfill the crankcase. Approximately 1 quart (0.9L) of oil
will raise the level from the ADD mark to the FULL mark. Excess oil will
generally be consumed at an accelerated rate.