1969 FORD MUSTANG trans

02-02-24
Brake
System

02-02-24

proportioning valve to the fender

apron and remove the proportioning

valve.

Installation

1.
Position the proportioning valve

to the fender apron.

2.
Connect the two brake lines at

the proportioning valve. Do not tight-

en.

3.
Install the bolt retaining the pro-

portioning valve to the fender apron.

4.
Tighten the brake line tube nuts

at the proportioning valve to specifica-

tions.

5.
Bleed the brakes and centralize

pressure differential valve.

THUNDERBIRD AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Removal

Refer to Fig. 20.

1.
Disconnect the two hydraulic

brake lines at the master cylinder.

2.
Remove the two nuts retaining

the master cylinder to the booster and

remove the master cylinder for clear-

ance.

3.
Disconnect the two brake lines at

the proportioning valve.

4.
Remove the bolt and nut retain-

ing the proportioning valve to the

pressure differential valve bracket and

remove the proportioning valve assem-

bly.

Installation

1.
Transfer the bracket to the new

proportioning valve.

2.
Position the proportioning valve

assembly to the pressure differential

valve bracket.

3.
Connect the two brake lines to

the proportioning valve. Do not tight-

en.

4.
Install the bolt and nut retaining

the proportioning valve to the pressure

differential valve bracket.

5.
Tighten the two brake line tube

nuts at the proportioning valve to

specifications.

6. Position the master cylinder to

the booster and install the nuts retain-

ing the master cylinder to the booster.

7.
Connect the two brake lines at

the master cylinder and tighten the

tube nuts to specifications.

8. Bleed the brakes and centralize

the pressure differential valve.
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Removal

Refer to Fig. 21.

1.
Disconnect the two brake lines at

the proportioning valve.

2.
Loosen the bolt and nut on the

bracket retaining the proportioning

valve to the chassis.

3.
Remove the proportioning valve

from the bracket.

Installation

- 1. Position the proportioning valve

in the bracket and connect the two

brake lines. Do not tighten.

2.
Tighten the bolt and nut on the

bracket.

3.
Tighten the tube nuts on the

brake lines at the proportioning valve

to specifications.

4.
Bleed the brakes and centralize

the pressure differential valve.

PRESSURE METERING VALVE—

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

REMOVAL

Refer to Fig. 21.

1.
Loosen the tube nuts connecting

the inlet and outlet tubes at the me-

tering valve, and remove the tubes.

2.
Remove the two screws retaining

the metering valve to the frame

crossmember, and remove the me-

tering valve. The metering valve is ser-

viced as an assembly only.

INSTALLATION

1.
Position the metering valve to

the frame crossmember, and install

the retaining screws.

2.
Connect the inlet and outlet

tubes to the metering valve, and tight-

en the tube nuts to specification.

BRAKE BOOSTER

REMOVAL

1.
Working from inside the\ vehicle

below the instrument panel, disconnect

the booster push rod from the brake

pedal assembly. To do this, proceed as

follows:

Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector. Remove the

hairpin retainer. Slide the stop light
switch off from the brake pedal pin

just far enough for the switch outer

hole to clear the pin, and then remove

the switch from the pin and booster

push rod. Be careful not to damage

the switch during removal. Slide the

booster push rod and the nylon wash-

ers and bushing off the brake pedal

pin (Figs. 29 thru 33).

2.
Open the hood and remove the

master cylinder from the booster. Se-

cure it to one side without disturbing

the hydraulic lines. It is not necessary

to disconnect the brake lines, but care

should be taken that the brake lines

are not deformed. Permanent defor-

mation of brake lines can lead to tube

failure.

3.
Disconnect the manifold vacuum

hose or hoses from the booster unit.

4.
Remove the booster-to-dash

panel attaching nuts or bolts (Figs. 29

thru 33). Remove the booster and

bracket assembly from the dash panel,

sliding the push rod link out from the

engine side of the dash panel.

5.
On Fairlane, Montego, and Fal-

con models, remove the push rod link

boot from the dash panel.

INSTALLATION

1.
On Fairlane, Montego and Fal-

con models, install the push rod link

boot in the hole in the dash panel as

shown in Fig. 23. Install the four

spacers on the mounting studs.

2.
Mount the booster and bracket

assembly to the dash panel by insert-

ing the push rod or push rod link in

through the hole and boot in the dash

panel. Install the bracket-to-dash

panel attaching lock nuts or bolts

(Figs.
29 thru 33).

3.
Connect the manifold vacuum

hose or hoses to the booster.

4.
Before installing the master cyl-

inder, check the distance from the

outer end of the booster assembly

push rod to master cylinder surface.

Turn the screw in or out to obtain the

specified length. Refer to Part 2-1,

Section 2, Power Brake Master Cylin-

der Push Rod Adjustment. Install the

master cylinder and torque the attach-

ing nuts to specifications.

5.
Working from inside the vehicle

below the instrument panel, connect

the booster push rod link to the brake

pedal assembly. To do this, proceed as

follows:

Install the inner nylon washer, the

booster push rod, and the bushing on

the brake pedal pin. Position the

switch so that it straddles the push

rod with the switch slot on the pedal

pin and the switch outer hole justprocarmanuals.com

02-02-25
Brake System

02-02-25

clearing the pin. Slide the switch com-

pletely onto the pin, and install the

nylon washer as shown in Figs. 29

thru 33. Be careful not to bend or de-

form the switch. Secure these parts to

the pin with the hairpin retainer. Con-

nect the stop light switch wires to the

connector, and install the wires in the

retaining clip.

BRAKE PEDAL

FORD, MERCURY

AND METEOR

Removal

1.
Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

2.
Remove the hairpin retainer.

Slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin,

and then lift the switch straight up-

ward from the pin. Be careful not to

damage the switch during removal.

Slide the master cylinder or booster

push rod and the nylon washers and

bushing off the brake pedal pin (Figs.

26 and 29).

3.
Remove the hairpin type retainer

and washer from the brake pedal

shaft, then remove the shaft, the brake

pedal and the bushings from the pedal

support bracket.

Installation

1.
Apply a coating of SAE 10 En-

gine oil to the bushings and locate

bushings in their proper places on the

pedal assembly and pedal support

bracket (Figs. 26 and 29).

2.
Position the brake pedal assem-

bly to the support bracket, then install

the pedal shaft through the support

bracket and brake pedal assembly. In-

stall the retainer.

3.
Install the inner nylon washer,

the master cylinder or booster push

rod, and the bushing on the brake

pedal pin. Position the switch so that

it straddles the push rod with the

switch slot on the pedal pin and the

switch outer hole just clearing the pin.

Slide the switch completely onto the

pin, and install the nylon washer as

shown in Figs. 26 and 29. Be careful

not to bend or deform the switch. Se-

cure these parts to the pin with the

hairpin retainer.

4.
Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector, and install the

wires in the retaining clip.
5.
Check the Brake Pedal Free

Height and Travel Measurements,

Part 2-1, Section 1.

FAIRLANE, MONTEGO AND

FALCON—MANUAL-SHIFT

TRANSMISSION

Removal

1.
Remove the clutch pedal assist

spring.

2.
Disconnect the clutch pedal-

to-equalizer rod at the clutch pedal by

removing the retainer and bushing.

3.
Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

4.
Remove the switch retainer, and

slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin.

Then lower the switch away from the

pin.

5. Slide the master cylinder or

booster push rod and the nylon wash-

ers and bushing off from the brake

pedal pin (Figs. 27 and 30).

6. Remove the self-locking pin and

washer from the clutch and brake

pedal shaft, then remove the clutch

pedal and shaft assembly, the brake

pedal assembly, and the bushings from

the pedal support bracket (Figs. 27

and 30).

Installation

1.
Apply a coating of SAE 10 en-

gine oil to the bushings and locate all

bushings in their proper places on the

clutch and brake pedal assemblies.

2.
Position the brake pedal to the

support bracket, then install the clutch

pedal and shaft assembly through the

support bracket and brake pedal as-

sembly. Install the spring clip (Figs.

27 and 30).

3.
Install the clutch pedal assist

spring.

4.
Connect the clutch pedal-

to-equalizer rod to the clutch pedal

assembly with the bushing and the

spring clip retainer. Apply SAE 10

engine oil to the bushing.

5.
Install the inner nylon washer,

the master cylinder or booster push

rod, and the bushing on the brake

pedal pin. Position the switch so that

it straddles the push rod with the

switch slot on the pedal pin and the

switch outer hole just clearing the pin.

Slide the switch completely onto the

pin, and install the outer nylon washer

as shown in Figs. 27 and 30. Secure

these parts to the pin with the
self-

locking pin.
6. Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector, and install the

wires to the retaining clip.

7.
Adjust the clutch pedal free play

(Group 5) to specification, if required.

8. Check the Brake Pedal Free

Height and Travel Measurements

(Part 2-1, Section 1).

MUSTANG AND COUGAR—

MANUAL-SHIFT

TRANSMISSION

Removal

1.
Disconnect the battery ground

cable from the battery.

2.
Remove the steering column.

Refer to Part 3-4, Section 2 for pro-

cedure.

3.
On non-power brakes, remove

the two cap screws retaining the mas-

ter cylinder to the dash panel and re-

move the two cap screws retaining the

brake pedal support bracket to the

dash panel. On power brakes remove

the two cap screws retaining the

booster to the dash panel.

4.
Working inside the vehicle, se-

cure the clutch pedal against the

bumper stop with a small C-clamp as

shown in Figs. 28 and 31.

5.
Disconnect the clutch pedal-

to-equalizer rod at the clutch pedal by

removing the retainer and bushing.

6. Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

7.
Remove the switch retainer and

slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin.

Then lower the switch away from the

pin.
Remove the master cylinder or

booster push rod, bushing and nylon

washer from the brake pedal pin.

8. Remove the screw retaining the

pedal support bracket to the top inner

cowl bracket (Figs. 28 and 31).

9. Remove the two sheet metal

screws retaining the pedal support

bracket to the dash panel. On power

brakes remove the nuts from the

brake booster studs.

10.
Remove the two screws retain-

ing the pedal support bracket to the

upper cowl brace and lower the pedal

support bracket away from the steer-

ing column studs.

11.
Remove the pedal support

bracket assembly from the vehicle.

12.
Position the pedal and support

bracket assembly in a vise.

13.
Remove the C-clamp to release

the clutch pedal from its bumper stop

and pivot the pedal away from the

bumper.procarmanuals.com

02-02-26
Brake System

02-02-26

14.
Remove the clutch pedal assist

spring.

15.
On non-power brakes, remove

the retainer clip from the clutch and

brake pedal shaft, then remove the

clutch pedal and shaft assembly, the

brake pedal assembly, and the bush-

ings from the pedal support bracket.

On power brakes, remove the retainer

nut from the brake pedal shaft then

remove the pedal shaft, the brake

pedal assembly and the bushings from

the pedal support bracket.

Installation

1. Apply a coating of SAE 10 en-

gine oil to the bushings and locate all

bushings in their proper places on the

clutch and brake pedal assemblies.

2.
On non-power brakes, position

the brake pedal to the pedal support

bracket, then install the clutch pedal

and shaft assembly through the sup-

port bracket and brake pedal assem-

bly. On power brakes position the

brake pedal to the pedal support

bracket, then install the pedal shaft

and nut.

3.
Install the clutch pedal assist

spring and pivot the clutch pedal

against its bumper stop. Secure the

pedal to the stop with a small C-

clamp as shown in Figs. 28 and 31.

4.
Position the pedal support

bracket assembly to the dash panel,

and to the steering column retainer

studs.

5.
Align the pedal support bracket

holes with the holes in the dash panel

and install the two attaching sheet

metal screws. On power brakes install

the nuts on the brake booster studs.

6. Install the two cap screws at-

taching the pedal support bracket to

the upper cowl bracket.

7. Install the cap screw attaching

the pedal support bracket to the top

inner cowl bracket (Figs. 28 and 31).

8. Install the inner nylon washer,

the master cylinder push rod, and the

bushing on the brake pedal pin. Posi-

tion the stop light switch so that it

straddles the push rod with the switch

slot on the pedal pin and the switch

outer hole just clearing the pin. Slide

the switch completely onto the pin,

and install the outer nylon washer as

shown in Figs. 28 and 31. Secure

these parts to the pin with the
self-

locking retainer.

9. Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector.

10.
Connect the clutch pedal-

to-equalizer rod to the clutch pedal

assembly with the bushing and the

spring clip retainer. Apply SAE 10
engine oil to the bushing. Remove the

C-clamp from the clutch pedal.

11.
Working from the engine side

of the dash panel, on non-power

brakes, install the two cap screws at-

taching the pedal support bracket to

the dash panel. Then install the two

screws attaching the master cylinder

to the dash panel. On power brakes

install the cap screws retaining the

brake booster to the dash panel.

12.
Install the steering column.

Refer to Part 3-4, Section 2 for pro-

cedure.

13.
Adjust the clutch pedal free

play (Group 5) to specification, if re-

quired.

14.
Check the Brake Pedal Free

Height and Travel Measurements

(Part 2-1, Section 1).

15.
Connect the ground cable to the

battery.

FAIRLANE, MONTEGO,

FALCON, MUSTANG

AND COUGAR-

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

Removal

1. Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

2.
Remove the self-locking pin and

slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin.

Then lower the switch away from the

pin. Slide the master cylinder or

booster push rod and the nylon wash-

ers and bushing off from the brake

pedal pin (Figs. 27, 28, 30 and 31).

3.
On all vehicles except Mustang

and Cougar with power brakes, re-

move the self-locking pin and washer

from the brake pedal shaft, then re-

move the shaft, the brake pedal as-

sembly and the bushings from the

pedal support bracket. On Mustang

and Cougar vehicles with power

brakes, remove the locknut and bolt

from the pedal. Remove the pedal as-

sembly from the support bracket (Fig.

3).

Installation

1. Apply a coating of SAE 10 en-

gine oil to the bushings and locate all

the bushings in their proper places on

the pedal assembly and pedal support

bracket (Figs. 27, 28, 30 and 31).

2.
Position the brake pedal assem-

bly to the support bracket, then install

the pedal shaft or bolt through the

support bracket and brake pedal as-

sembly. Install the retainer or locknut.
3.
Install the inner nylon washer,

the master cylinder or booster push

rod, and the bushing on the brake

pedal pin. Position the switch so that

it straddles the push rod with the

switch slot on the pedal pin, and the

switch outer hole just clearing the pin.

Slide the switch completely onto the

pin, and install the outer nylon washer

as shown in Figs. 27, 28, 30 and 31.

Secure these parts to the pin with the

self-locking pin.

4.
Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector, and install the

wires in the retaining clip.

Check the Brake Pedal Free Height

and Travel Measurements, Part 2,

Section 1.

THUNDERBIRD
AND

CONTINENTAL MARK
III

Removal

1.
Loosen the booster mounting

nuts.

2.
Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

3.
Remove the hairpin retainer.

Slide the stop light switch off from

the brake pedal pin just far enough

for
the
switch outer hole
to
clear
the

pin,
and then lift the switch straight

upward from the pin. Slide the master

cylinder push rod and the nylon wash-

ers and bushing off from the brake

pedal pin (Fig. 32).

4.
Remove the pivot bolt and nut

that holds the pedal to the pedal sup-

port bracket. Remove the brake pedal

assembly from the pedal support

bracket, and remove the bushings.

Installation

1. Apply a coating of SAE 10 en-

gine oil to the bushings and locate all

the bushings in their proper places on

the pedal assembly (Fig. 32).

2.
Install the brake pedal assembly

and bushings to the support bracket,

and then install the pivot bolt through

the support bracket and brake pedal

assembly. Install the pivot bolt nut

and torque to specifications.

3.
Install the inner nylon washer,

the master cylinder push rod, and the

bushing on the brake pedal pin. Posi-

tion the switch so that it straddles the

push rod with the switch slot on the

pedal pin and the switch outer hole

just clearing the pin. Slide the switch

completely onto the pin, install the

outer nylon washer as shown in Fig.

32.
Secure these parts to the pin with

the hairpin retainer.procarmanuals.com

02-02-41
Brake System

02-02-41

bolt and G-ring in the bottom of the

master cylinder.

8. Install the bleed screw (if so

equipped). Install the gasket (dia-

phragm) in the master cylinder filler

cover. Position the gasket as shown in

Figs.
40 and 41. Make sure the gasket

is securely seated.

9. Install the cover and gasket on

the master cylinder and secure the

cover into position with the retainer.

DISC BRAKE CALIPER

ALL MODELS EXCEPT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Disassembly

1.
Remove the caliper assembly

from the vehicle as outlined in Section

2.

2.
Remove the caliper locating pins

from the caliper assembly and lift the

anchor plate from the caliper.

3.
Slide the two outer shoe retain-

ing clips off the retaining pins (Fig.

43).

4.
Remove the two retaining pins,

then remove the outer brake shoe

from the caliper.

5.
Slide the inner brake shoe out-

ward until it is free of the hold-down

springs, then remove the brake shoe.

6. Apply air pressure to the fluid

port in the caliper with a rubber

tipped nozzle (Tool 7000-DD) as

shown in Fig. 44 to remove the piston.

Place a cloth over the piston before

applying air pressure to prevent dam-

age to the piston. If the piston is

seized and cannot be forced from the

FIBER

BLOCK

CALIPER

PISTON

H 1574-B

FIG. 44 —Removing Piston From

Caliper —
All
Models Except

Lincoln Continental
caliper, tap lightly around the piston

while applying air pressure. Care

should be taken because the piston

can develop considerable force due to

pressure build-up.

7.
Remove the dust boot from the

caliper assembly.

8. Remove the rubber piston seal

from the cylinder and discard it.

Cleaning and Inspection

Clean all metal parts with isopropyl

alcohol or a suitable solvent. Use

clean, dry, compressed air to clean out

and dry the grooves and passage ways.

Be sure that the caliper bore and com-

ponent parts are completely free of

any foreign material.

Check the cylinder bore and piston

for damage or excessive wear. Replace

the piston if it is pitted, scored, or the

chrome plating is worn off.

Assembly

1.
Apply a film of clean brake fluid

to the new caliper piston seal and in-

stall it in the cylinder bore. Be sure

the seal does not become twisted and

that it is seated fully in the groove.

2.
Install a new dust boot by setting

the flange squarely in the outer groove

of the caliper bore.

3.
Coat the piston with the speci-

fied fluid and install the piston in the

cylinder bore. Spread the dust boot

over the piston as it is installed. Seat

the dust boot in the piston groove.

4.
Position the inner brake shoe so

that the ears of the shoe rests on the

top of the anchor plate bosses and be-

neath the hold-down springs.

5.
Install new caliper locating pin

insulators in the anchor plate.

6. Position the caliper on the an-

chor plate.

7.
Apply water or isopropyl alcohol

to the caliper locating pins and install

them loosely in the anchor plate. Be

sure the guide pins are free of oil,

grease or dirt.

8. Install the caliper on the spindle

as outlined under Disc Brake Caliper

Assembly.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Disassembly

Do not remove the bridge bolts that

hold the two halves of the caliper to-

gether. The two caliper housings are

shown separated in Fig. 46 for illus-

tration purposes only.
1.
Remove the caliper assembly

from the car as outlined in Section 2.

2.
Remove the two attaching bolts

and the caliper splash shield (Fig. 46).

3.
Remove the two shoe and lining

assemblies.

4.
Remove the flexible brake hose

from the caliper.

5.
Remove the external transfer

tube.

6. Remove the four dust boots from

the caliper housings and piston

grooves.

7.
Clamp the caliper in a vise and

secure it by the mounting flanges on

the inboard housing (Fig. 45).

8. Remove the four pistons from

the cylinder bores with the special tool

shown in Fig. 45. To prevent cocking

with consequent damage to the piston

or bore, rotate the piston with the tool

while pulling it outward at the same

time.
Be careful to avoid scratching or

damaging the outside diameter surface

or dust boot retaining groove of the

piston. Such damage causes poor seal-

ing.

If a piston is so completely seized in

the cylinder bore that it can not be re-

moved with the special tool, the cali-

per housing must be replaced, by posi-

tioning two screwdrivers in the piston

dust boot retaining groove and prying

outward. To prevent cocking, tap the

end of the piston lightly around the

circumference with a hammer, while

the prying force is being applied. Be

careful to avoid damaging the dust

boot retainer in the caliper housing

(Fig. 46). If this method of removal is

used, the pistons must be replaced.

If the caliper dust boot retainer or

retaining groove is damaged or

scratched, pry the retainer out of the

caliper housing with screwdrivers.

Too/-T65P-2
J
18- A

H 1652-A

FIG. 45—Removing or Installing

Pistons —
Lincoln
Continentalprocarmanuals.com

02-02-42
Brake System

02-02-42

CALIPER
ABUTMENTS

OUTBOARD
CALIPER HOUSING

DUST
BOOT RETAINING GROOVE

DUST
BOOT (4)
PISTON
SEAL (4)

EXTERNAL

TRANSFER
TUBE

SCREW

INBOARD
CALIPER HOUSING

FLEXIBLE
HOSE-^
H1367-C

FIG. 46—Caliper Assembly — Disassembled—Lincoln Continental

9. Remove the rubber piston seals

from the grooves in the cylinder bores

by carefully inserting the point of a

small knife or other pointed instru-

ment under the seal and raising the

seal up far enough to be pulled out

with the fingers.

Cleaning and Inspection

Clean all metal parts with isopropyl

alcohol or a suitable solvent (Fig. 46).

Use clean, dry, compressed air to

clean out and dry the grooves and

passage ways. Be sure that the caliper
bore and component parts are com-

pletely free of any foreign material.

Check the cylinder bores and pis-

tons for damage or excessive wear.

Replace the piston if it is pitted,

scored, or the chrome plating is worn

off. Check the caliper dust boot re-

tainer for wear or damage.

Assembly

1.
Clamp the caliper in a vise and

secure it by the mounting flange on

the inboard housing.

2.
Apply a film of clean brake fluid
to new caliper piston seals and install

them in the grooves of the cylinder

bore.
The seal should be positioned at

one area in the groove and gently

worked around. Do not use the origi-

nal seals.

3.
Install the new dust boots by set-

ting the flanges squarely in the outer

grooves of the caliper bores.

4.
Coat the pistons with the speci-

fied fluid and install the pistons inPthe

cylinder bores. Spread the dust boots

over the pistons as they are installed.

Seat the dust boots in the piston

grooves.

5.
Coat the outside diameter of the

pistons with brake fluid and install

them in the cylinder bores so that the

open end of the piston and ihe boot

retaining groove face out of the bore.

To avoid cocking, locate the piston

squarely in the bore and apply a slow

steady pressure. If a piston will not

easily go all the way into the bore, re-

move it and thoroughly inspect the

cylinder bore, the piston seal and the

installation of the seal. If the piston

still will not go in with bore in good

condition and the piston seal properly

installed, use the tool shown in Fig.

45.
Rotate the piston with the tool

while pushing it inward at the same

time.

6. Carefully install four new dust

boots on the caliper housings and pis-

tons.
Be sure that each boot is fully

seated in the groove of its respective

caliper housing and piston (Fig. 46).

Do not use the original dust boots.

7.
Install the external transfer tube.

8. Install the flexible brake hose to

the caliper.

9. Install the caliper assembly on

the spindle, and install the shoe and

lining assemblies and the splash shield

as outlined in Section 2. Check the

caliper for fluid leaks under maximum

pedal pressures. Do not move the car

until a firm brake pedal is obtained.procarmanuals.com

03-01-02
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-02

1 TESTING

POWER STEERING-

PRELIMINARY TESTS

The following preliminary checks

should always be made before per-

forming any operations.

AIR BLEEDING

Air in the power steering system

(shown by bubbles in the fluid) should

be bled. After making sure that the

reservoir is filled to specification (the

fluid must be at normal operating

temperature when the check is made),

turn the steering wheel through its full

travel three or four times. Do not hold

the wheels against their stops. Re-

check the fluid level.

CHECK FLUID LEVEL

Run the engine until the fluid is at

normal operating temperature. Then

turn the steering wheel all the way to

the left and right several times, and

shut off the engine.

Check the fluid level in the power

steering reservoir. The level must show

on the cross hatching between the bot-

tom of the dipstick and the full mark

(Fig. 1). If the level is low, add

enough automatic transmission fluid

C1AZ-19582-A to raise the level to

the F mark on the dipstick. Do not

overfill the reservoir.

CHECK PUMP BELT

If the pump belt is broken, glazed,

or worn, replace it with a new belt.

Use only the specified type of belt.

Refer to Part 3-13 for belt adjustment

procedure.

CHECK FOR FLUID

LEAKS

With the engine idling, turn the

steering wheel from stop to stop sever-

al times. Check all possible leakage

points. Tighten all loose fittings, and

replace any damaged lines or defective

seats.

CHECK TURNING EFFORT

With the front wheels properly al-

igned and tire pressures correct, check

the effort required to turn the steering

wheel.
G 1508- A

FIG.
1—Power
Steering Pump

Dipstick

1.
With the vehicle on dry concrete,

set the parking brakes.

2.
With the engine warmed up and

running at idle speed, turn the steering

wheel to the left and right several

times to warm the fluid.

3.
Attach a pull scale to the rim of

the steering wheel. Measure the pull

required to turn the wheel one com-

plete revolution in each direction. The

effort required to rotate the steering

wheel should not exceed specifications

given in Part 3-13.

POWER STEERING PUMP FLOW

AND PRESSURE TESTS—

EXCEPT LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

AND CONTINENTAL MARK III

The power steering flow and pres-

sure tests will show whether the pump,

steering gear or power assist control

RETURN LINE

POWER

STEERING PUMP

Sr
valve is causing the trouble. Steps out-

lined below should be followed to de-

termine the cause of the trouble.

PUMP FLOW TEST

1.
Depending on the equipment

present on the vehicle (air condition-

ing, power brakes, standard transmis-

sion),
one of the following options

may be used to connect the pump

pressure and return hoses to the test

tool (T56L-3361O-D and T68L-

33610-A):

a. Disconnect the pressure and re-

turn lines at the power steering pump

(Fig. 2). Obtain a power steering re-

turn hose from stock and connect the

end with the fitting to the output fit-

ting of the tool using the
5/8-18
SAE

female, 1/4 N.P. thread male fitting

provided. The end of the stock hose

(without the fitting) should be con-

nected to the return tube of the pump.

Connect the pressure hose from the

tool to the outlet fitting of the pump.

b.
Disconnect the pressure line at

the pump and connect the pressure

line from the test tool to the outlet fit-

ting of the pump. Disconnect the re-

turn line at the gear and connect it to

the output fitting of the tool, using the

5/8-18
SAE female, 1/4 N.P. thread

male fitting provided.

2.
After installing the lines by the

most advantageous method, proceed

as follows:

3.
Open the manual valves A and B

fully (Fig. 2).

CALIBRATED FLOW

DETERMINING ORIFICE

PRESSURE LINE

FIG. 2—Power Steering Pump Test Circuit Diagram
PRESSURE GAGE

G1611-Aprocarmanuals.com

03-05-02
Steering Columns
And
Linkage

03-05-02

which also will shear away during
im-

pact.

TILT STEERING COLUMNS

The steering column
is of the col-

lapsible type
to
lessen
the
possibility

of injury
to the
driver
of the
vehicle

should
he
become involved
in an
acci-

dent.
The
lower
end of the
steering

column tube
at the
bellows area will

collapse approximately
six
inches

upon
a
hard impact.

The shift tube
and the
steering shaft

are provided with plastic dowels
and

will shear
and
allow them
to
collapse

in proportion
to the
outer tube upon

impact.

Once
the
steering column
has
been

collapsed,
a
complete
new
column
must
be
installed.

The tilt column features nine driv-

ing positions (four
up and
four down

from
a
center position).
The
.column

also features
a
turn signal switch with

a lane-changer position turn indicating

position
and
emergency warning flash-

er control.

TILT-AWAY STEERING COLUMNS

The tilt-away steering column
fea-

tures nine driving positions (four
up

and four down from
a
center position)

and
a
tilt-away position that
is
auto-

matically accomplished
on
Mustang

and Cougar models when
the
ignition

key
is
turned
to the
OFF
position
and

the left door
is
opened.
On
Thunder-

bird models,
the
tilt-away occurs when
the shift lever
is
placed
in
PARK
and

the driverns door
is
opened.

The steering column
is of the col-

lapsible type
to
lessen
the
possibility

of injury
to the
driver
of the
vehicle

should
he
become involved
in an
acci-

dent.
The
lower
end of the
steering

column tube
at the
bellows area will

collapse approximately
six
inches

upon
a
hard impact.

The shift tube
and the
steering shaft

are provided with plastic dowels
and

will shear
and
allow them
to
collapse

in proportion
to the
outer tube upon

impact.

Once
the
steering column
has
been

collapsed,
a
complete
new
column

must
be
installed along with mounting

brackets which will also shear away

during impact.

IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS
AND
REPAIRS

STEERING WHEEL SPOKE

POSITION ADJUSTMENT

When
the
steering gear
is on the

high point,
the
front wheels should
be

in
the
straight-ahead position
and the

steering wheel spokes should
be in

their normal position with
the
Pitman

arm pointing directly forward.
If the

spokes
are not in
their normal posi-

tion, they
can be
adjusted without
dis-

turbing
the
toe-in adjustment (Part

3-1).

STEERING WHEEL

REPLACEMENT

1.
Disconnect
the
negative cable

from
the
battery.

2.
Working from
the
underside
of

the steering wheel spoke, remove
the

crash
pad
attaching screws. Lift
the

crash
pad
from
the
wheel.
(On
Conti-

nental Mark
III
models,
pry out the

crash
pad
insert
and
remove
the two

screws that secure
the
crash
pad. Re-

move
the
crash
pad. On
models

equipped with steering wheel mounted

speed controls, refer
to
Group
16 for

removal instructions). Remove
the

horn ring
(if so
equipped)
by
turning

it counterclockwise.

3.
Remove
the
steering wheel
nut,

and then remove
the
steering wheel

with tool T67L-3600-A
(Fig. 1). Do

not
use a
knock-off type steering

wheel puller
or
strike
the end of the

steering shaft with
a
hammer. Striking

the puller
or
shaft will damage
the

bearing
or the
collapsible column.

4.
Transfer
all
serviceable parts
to

the
new
steering wheel.

5.
Position
the
steering wheel
on

the shaft
so
that
the
alignment mark
on
the hub of the
wheel
is
adjacent
to

the
one on the
shaft. Install
a new

locknut
and
torque
it to
specifications.

6. Install
the
horn ring
(if so

equipped)
and
crash
pad.

STEERING COLUMN UPPER

BEARING REPLACEMENT

STATIONARY COLUMNS

Removal

1. Disconnect
the
horn wire
and the

turn indicator wires
at the
connector.

2.
Working from
the
underside
of

the steering wheel spoke, remove
the

two crash
pad
attaching screws. Lift

the crash
pad
from
the
wheel.
(On

Continental Mark
III
models,
pry out

the crash
pad
insert
and
remove
the

two screws that secure
the
crash
pad.

Remove
the
crash
pad. On
models

equipped with steering wheel mounted

speed controls, refer
to
Group
16 for

7oo/-T67L-3600-A
removal instructions). Remove
the

horn ring
(if so
equipped)
by
turning

it counterclockwise.

3.
Remove
the
steering wheel
at-

taching
nut.
Remove
the
steering

wheel using tool T67L-3600-A
(Fig.

1).
Do not use a
knock-off type steer-

ing wheel puller
or
strike
the end of

the steering shaft with
a
hammer.

Striking
the
puller
or
shaft will
dam-

age
the
bearing
or the
collapsible
col-

umn.

4.
Remove
the
turn indicator lever.

5.
Remove
the
turn signal switch

attaching screws. Lift
the
switch over

the
end of the
steering shaft
and
place

it
to one
side.

6. Remove
the
snap ring from
the

top
of the
steering shaft.

7.
Loosen
the two
flange-to-steering

column tube attaching bolts
to
disen-

gage them from
the
tube.

8. Raise
the
flange upward while

BEARING
AND

INSULATOR

Spacer

G 1502 -B

FIG.
1—Removing
Steering Wheel
G 1497-A

FIG. 2—Installing Upper Bearingprocarmanuals.com

03-05-07

Steering Columns And Linkage
03-05-07

the steering column
(F in Fig. 8).

7.
Disconnect
the
transmission shift

rod
at the
shift tube.

8. Working under
the
hood, install

the aligning spacer (Fig.
9)
around
the

visible portion
of the
steering shaft

and slide
it up the
shaft into
the
steer-

ing column.
It may be
necessary
to

move
the
shaft back
and
forth
to
com-

pletely install
the
spacer.

9.
At
this point
the
steering column

assembly, being loose,
may
have

dropped toward
the
steering gear

grounding
the
steering shaft
on the

steering gear input shaft.
To
properly

establish
the
steering shaft
to
steering

gear clearance, insert
a 1/8
diameter

rod
or
drill through
the
opening
in the

upper half
of the
flex coupling.

10.
Tighten
to a
snug
fit
(approxi-

mately
2-3
ft-lb)
the
nuts retaining
the

toe plates
to the
dash panel
(B in Fig.

8).

11.
If the
aligning spacer cannot
be

rotated freely,
the
dash panel holes

must
be
filed
or
reamed
for
greater

travel
(as
mentioned
in the
second

paragraph
at the
beginning
of
this

procedure).

12.
Tighten
all
nuts
and
bolts

(noted
as C, D and E in
Fig.
8) in the

passenger compartment
to a
snug
fit

(approximately 2-3 ft-lb). Again check

aligning spacer
for
looseness. Perform

these tightening operations
in
alpha-

betical order.

13.
Tighten
the
lateral adjustment

bolt
(F in Fig. 8) to
snug
fit.
Again

check
the
aligning spacer
for
loose-

ness.

14.
Tighten
all
bolts and nuts
to the

proper torque value (listed
in Fig. 8)

in alphabetical order.

15.
Remove
the
steering shaft
al-

igning spacer.

16.
Remove
the 1/8
diameter
rod or

drill previously inserted
in the
flex

coupling.

17.
Reinstall
the
trim
at the
instru-

ment panel
to
steering column mount-

ing.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

If
a
condition
of
high shift
or
steer-

ing effort
is
experienced
it may be

caused
by
improper alignment
of the

energy absorbing steering column.
The

following procedures outline
the
steps

necessary
to
correctly realign either

fixed
or
tilt columns:

1.
Disconnect
the
battery.

2.
Loosen four
toe
plate attaching

nuts (Fig.
10).

3.
Loosen
one toe
plate
to
steering

column clamp bolt
and nut.
Check

alignment
of
steering shaft
to
shift
-HANDLE PORTION

2-3/4"
-*- 3/4"

BEND AROUND

STEERING SHAFT
DIMENSION
A:

STANDARD COLUMN 7/16"

TILT WHEEL COLUMN
1-1/8"

•2-3/4

FABRICATE ALIGNING SPACER OUT OF

PLASTIC SHIPPING COLLAR PROVIDED

ON SERVICE DRIVESHAFTS, OR OUT
OF

1/32"—1/16" CARDBOARD
STEERING SHAFT

ALIGNMENT SPACER-BEND AROUND

STEERING SHAFT (DIMENSION
A)
AND

SLIDE UP THE SHAFT INTO COLUMN

G1537-A

FIG. 9—Aligning Spacer Fabrication
and
Insertion

BRAKE PEDAL

SUPPORT BRACKET

PART

A-TOE PLATE

B-CLAMP

C-C0LUMN BRACKET

D-BRAKE PEDAL

SUPPORT BRACKET
TORQUE VALUE

8-12 FT. LB.

3-5 FT. LB.

10-15
FT.
LB.

8-12 FT. LB.

G1541-A

FIG. 10—Steering Column Alignment Locations
and
Torque

Specifications—Lincoln Continentalprocarmanuals.com