1969 FORD MUSTANG torque

03-01-07
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-07

upper arm shaft to the frame member

(Fig. 3, Part 3-2).

2.
Loosen the arm shaft attaching

bolts,
raise the front end of the vehicle

and lower it again. This will break the

arm shaft loose from the frame mem-

ber.

3.
With a pry bar, move the arm

shaft back into alignment with the

chalk marks made in Step 1, and

tighten the shaft attaching bolts. The

bolts should be tightened just enough

to hold the shaft in position without

preventing its being moved with the

pry bar.

Caster

1.
With the aid of a pry bar, move

the shaft in or out, as required, to

meet specifications. A movement of

approximately 3 /32 inch at either the

front or rear bolt location will change

the caster 1/2 degree. Inboard move-

ment of the front bolt, or outboard

movement of the rear bolt, will change

caster in the negative direction. Out-

board movement of the front bolt, or

inboard movement of the rear bolt,

will change caster in the positive di-

rection.

2.
When the caster is correct, tor-

que the shaft attaching bolts to speci-

fication and recheck the caster and

camber to insure that the readings

have not changed.

Camber
TURN DOWNWARD TO

INCREASE ROD LENGTH

TURN UPWARD

TO DECREASE

ROD LENGTH
TURN

DOWNWARD

TO DECREASE

ROD LENGTH
TURN UPWARD TO

INCREASE ROD LENGTH

LEFT-HAND SLEEVE
RIGHT-HAND SLEEVE

FIG. 16—Spindle Connecting Rod Adjustment

WHEN TOE-IN IS CORRECT

TURN BOTH CONNECTING ROD

SLEEVES UPWARD TO ADJUST

SPOKE POSITION
F1433-A

i URN BOTH CONNECTING ROD

SLEEVES DOWNWARD TO

ADJUST SPOKE POSITION

WHEN TOE-IN IS

NOT CORRECT

LENGTHEN LEFT ROD TO

INCREASE TOE-IN

SHORTEN RIGHT ROD

TO DECREASE TOE-IN
SHORTEN LEFT ROD

TO DECREASE TOE-IN

LENGHTEN RIGHT ROD

TO INCREASE TOE-IN

ADJUST BOTH RODS EQUALLY TO MAINTAIN NORMAL SPOKE POSITION

1.
With the aid of a pry bar, move

the shaft in or out, as required, to

meet specifications. A movement of

approximately 3/64 inch of the entire

shaft will change the camber 1/4 de-

gree.
Inboard movement will change

the camber in the negative direction.

Outboard movement will change the

camber in the positive direction.

2.
When the camber is correct, tor-

que the shaft attaching bolts to speci-

fication and recheck the camber and

caster to insure that the readings have

not changed. Remove all alignment

equipment and alignment spacers and

install the right and left side rail

bumpers.

TOE-IN AND STEERING

WHEEL SPOKE

POSITION ADJUSTMENTS

Check the steering wheel spoke po-

sition when the front wheels are in the

straight-ahead position. If the spokes

are not in their normal position, they

can be properly adjusted while toe-in

is being adjusted.
F1434-
A

f/G.77—Toe-in and Steering Wheel Spoke Alignment Adjustment—Typical

1.
Loosen the two ciamp bolts or

each spindle connecting rod sleeve

(Fig. 16).

2.
Adjust toe-in. If the steering

wheel spokes are in their normal posi-

tion, lengthen or shorten both rods

equally to obtain correct toe-in (Fig.

16).
If the steering wheel spokes are

not in their normal position, make the

necessary rod adjustments to obtain

correct toe-in and steering wheel

spoke alignment (Fig. 17).

3.
Recheck toe-in and the steering

wheel spoke position. If toe-in is cor-

rect and the steering wheel spokes are

still not in their normal position, turn

both connecting rod sleeves upward or

downward same number of turns to

move the steering wheel spokes (Fig.

16).

4.
When toe-in and the steering

wheel spoke position are both correct,

torque the clamp bolts on both con-

necting rod sleeves to specification
(Part 3-13). Lubricate clamp, bolts

and nuts prior to torquing to specifi-

cation. The sleeve position should not

be changed when the clamp bolts are

tightened.

WHEEL BALANCING

See the instructions provided with

the Rotunda Wheel Balancer.

Make certain that the brakes are

not dragging before attempting to spin

the wheels. Push the brake shoes into

the caliper to free the rotor.

LUBRICANT CHECKING

PROCEDURE

MANUAL STEERING GEAR

1.
Center the steering wheel.

2.
Remove the steering gear hous-

ing filler plug.procarmanuals.com

03-01-08
Suspension
—
Steering,
Wheels
And
Tires
—
General Service

03-01-08

3.
Remove the lower (upper on

Mustang and Cougar) cover- to-

housing attaching bolt.

4.
With a clean punch or like in-

strument, clean out or push inward

the loose lubricant in the filler plug

hole and cover to housing attaching

bolt hole.
5.
Slowly turn the steering wheel to

the left stop, lubricant should rise

within the lower cover bolt hole; then

slowly turn the steering wheel to the

right stop, lubricant should rise within

the filler plug hole. If lubricant does

not rise in both the cover bolt hole
and the filler plug hole, add lubricant

until it comes out both holes during

this check.

6. Install the lower (upper on

Mustang and Cougar) cover- to-

housing attaching bolt and the filler

plug.

CLEANING
AND
INSPECTION

FRONT
END
GENERAL

INSPECTION

Do not check and adjust front

wheel alignment without first making

the following inspection for front-end

damage, or wear.

1.
Check for specified air pressures

in all four tires.

2.
Raise the front of the vehicle off

the floor. Shake each front wheel

grasping the upper and lower surfaces

of the tire. Check the front suspension

ball joints and mountings for loose-

ness,
wear, and damage. Check the

brake backing plate mountings. Tor-

que all loose nuts and bolts to specifi-

cation. Replace all worn parts as out-

lined in Part 3-2.

3.
Check the steering gear mount-

ings and all steering linkage connec-

tions for looseness. Torque all mount-

ings to specifications. If any of the

linkage is worn or bent, replace the

parts as outlined in Part 3-5.

4.
Check the front wheel bearings.

If any in-and-out free play is noticed,

adjust the bearings to specifications.

Replace worn or damaged bearings as

outlined in Part 3-12.

5.
Spin each front wheel with a

wheel spinner, and check and balance

each wheel as required.

6. Check the action of the shock

absorbers. If the shock absorbers are

not in good condition, the vehicle may

not settle in a normal, level position,

and front wheel alignment may be af-

fected.

WHEEL INSPECTION

Wheel hub nuts should be inspected

and tightened to specification at pre-

delivery. Loose wheel hub nuts may

cause shimmy and vibration. Elongat-

ed stud holes in the wheels may also

result from loose hub nuts.

Keep the wheels and hubs clean.

Stones wedged between the wheel and

drum and lumps of mud or grease can

unbalance a wheel and tire.
Check for damage that would affect

the runout of the wheels. Wobble or

shimmy caused by a damaged wheel

will eventually damage the wheel bear-

ings.
Inspect the wheel rims for dents

that could permit air to leak from the

tires.

UPPER BALL JOINT

INSPECTION

Ford,
Mercury,
Meteor,

Thunderbird,

Lincoln Continental
and

Continental Mark
III

1.
Raise the vehicle and place floor

jacks beneath the lower arms.

2.
Ask an assistant to grasp the

lower edge of the tire and move the

wheel in and out.

3.
As the wheel is being moved in

and out, observe the upper end of the

spindle and the upper arm.

4.
Any movement between the

upper end of the spindle and the upper

arm indicates ball joint wear and loss

of preload. If any such movement is

observed, replace the upper ball joint.

During
the
foregoing
check,
the

lower ball joint will
be
unloaded
and

may
move.
Disregard
all
such
move-

ment
of the
lower ball
joint.
Also,
do

not mistake loose wheel bearings
for a

worn ball
joint.

Cougar,
Fairlane,
Falcon,

Montego
and
Mustang

1.
Raise the vehicle on a frame

contact hoist or by floor jacks placed

beneath the underbody until the wheel

falls to the full down position as

shown in Fig. 18. This will unload the

upper ball joint.

2.
Adjust the wheel bearings as de-

scribed in Part 3-12.

3.
Attach a dial indicator to the

upper arm and position the indicator
so that the plunger rests against the

inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to

the upper arm ball joint.

4.
Grasp the tire at the top and

bottom, and slowly move the tire in

and out (Fig. 18). Note the reading

(radial play) on the dial indicator. If

MAXIMUM TOLERANCE

F
1500-A

FIG.
T8—Measuring Upper Ball

Joint Radial Play

MAXIMUM TOLERANCE

F14
35-A

FIG.
79—Measuring Lower Ball

Joint Radial Playprocarmanuals.com

03-01-11
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-11

3.
Inspect the rotor, rollers, cam

ring, pressure plate, cover, and bush-

ing in the pressure plate for wear or

scoring. If damaged, replacement of

the pump (less housing) is required.

4.
Make sure the inner faces of the

cover and the housing are free of

paint, nicks, or burrs. Check all fluid

passages for restrictions.

5.
Inspect the valving surfaces

(areas where the rotor and rollers con-

tact) for wear or scoring. Replace the

pressure plate or the cover if worn or

scored. Inspect the bushing in the

pressure plate for wear or scoring, and

replace the plate if necessary.

6. Inspect the control valve for

scores, nicks, or burred edges. Re-

place the valve if damaged. Do not dis-

assemble the valve. Check the valve

for free movement in the housing

bore.

7.
Inspect the tube seat in the hous-

ing. If damaged, remove it with an

E-Z-Out and install a new seat.

SHOCK ABSORBER CHECKS

All vehicles are equipped with hy-

draulic shock absorbers of the direct-

acting type and are nonadjustable and

nonrefillable. They cannot be repaired.
Before replacing a shock absorber,

check the action of the shock absor-

bers as follows:

ON VEHICLE TESTS

1.
Check the shock absorber to be

sure it is securely and properly in-

stalled. Check the shock absorber in-

sulators for damage and wear.

Replace any defective insulators and

tighten attachments to the specified

torque (on a shock absorber which in-

corporates integral insulators, replace

the shock absorbers).

2.
Inspect the shock absorber for

evidence of fluid leakage. A light film

of fluid is permissible. Be sure any

fluid observed is not from sources

other than the shock absorber.

Replace the shock absorber if leak-

age is severe.

3.
Disconnect the lower end of the

shock absorber. Extend and compress

the shock absorber as fast as possible,

using as much travel as possible.

Action should become smooth and

uniform throughout each stroke.

Higher resistance on extension than

on compression is a normal condition.

Faint swish noises are also normal.

Remove the shock absorber for a

bench test if action is erratic. If the
action is smooth, but the shock absor-

bers are suspected of being weak fol-

low step 4:

4.
Repeat step 3 on the mating

shock absorber installed on the oppo-

site side of the vehicle, and compare

results of both tests. If the action is

similar, it is unlikely that either shock

absorber is defective. Reconnect both

shock absorbers.

Replace the shock absorber having

the lower resistance. Ensure that the

part number of the replacement is the

same as that of the original shock ab-

sorber. The replacement shock absor-

ber resistance will appear to be higher

than either original due to initial fric-

tion of the rod seal.

BENCH TEST

With the shock absorber right side

up (as installed in vehicle), extend it

fully. Then turn the shock absorber

upside down and fully compress it.

Repeat this procedure at least three

times to ensure that any entrapped air

has been expelled. Now place the

shock absorber right side up in a vise,

and hand stroke the shock absorber as

described in On Vehicle Tests, step 3.

If action is not now smooth and uni-

form, install a new shock absorber.procarmanuals.com

03-02-08
Suspension

03-02-08

IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS

Damage to steering linkage compo-

nents and front suspension struts may

occur if care is not exercised when po-

sitioning the hoist adapters of 2 post

hoists prior to lifting the vehicle.

If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the

vehicle, place the adapters under the

lower arms or the No. 1 crossmember.

Do not allow the adapters to contact

the steering linkage. If the adapters

are placed under the crossmember, a

piece of wood (2 x 4 x 16 inches)

should be placed on the hoist channel

between the adapters. This will pre-

vent the adapters from damaging the

front suspension struts.

UPPER BALL JOINT

REPLACEMENT

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

1.
Raise the vehicle high enough to

provide working space, and place a

support under the lower arm. If a

chain hoist or a jack that has a nar-

row contact pad is to be used on the

bumper to raise the vehicle, distribute

the load along the bumper by using a

steel plate 3 or 4 inches long as a con-

tact pad to prevent damaging the

bumper.

2.
Remove the wheel and tire.

3.
Drill a
1/8-inch
hole through

each upper ball joint retaining rivet.

Using a large chisel, cut off the rivets.

4.
Remove the upper arm suspen-

sion bumper.

5.
Remove the cotter pin and nut

from the upper ball joint stud.

6. Place a box wrench over the

lower end of the ball joint remover

tool, and position the tool as in Fig. 7.

The tools should seat firmly against

the ends of both studs, and not

against the lower stud nut.

7.
Turn the wrench until both studs

are under tension, and then, with a

hammer, tap the spindle near the

upper stud to loosen the stud from the

spindle. Do not loosen the stud with

tool pressure alone. Remove the ball

joint.

8. Clean the end of the arm, and

remove all burrs from the hole edges.

Check for cracks in the metal at the

holes,
and replace the arm if it is

cracked.
F1436-A

FIG. 7—Disconnecting Ball

Joints—Typical

9. Attach the new ball joint to the

upper arm. Use only the specified

bolts,
and nuts. Do not rivet the new

ball joints to the arm. Torque the nuts

to specification.

10 Install the upper arm suspension

bumper. Torque the nut to specifica-

tion.
11.
Position the ball joint stud in

the spindle bore, and torque the at-

taching nut to specification. Install a

new cotter pin.

12.
Install the wheel and tire.

13.
Remove the safety stands, and

lower the vehicle.

14.
Check and, if necessary, adjust

caster, camber, and toe-in. Whenever

any part of the front suspension has

been removed and installed, front

wheel alignment must be checked.

COUGAR, FAIRLANE,

FALCON, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG

1.
Position a support between the

upper arm and frame side rail as

shown in Figs. 8 and 9; then, raise the

vehicle and position safety stands.

2.
Remove the wheel and tire.

3.
Remove the cotter pin and nut

from the upper ball joint stud.

4.
Position the ball joint remover

tool as shown in Fig. 10. The tool

should seat firmly against the ends of

both studs, and not against the lower

stud nut. It may be necessary to re-

move the lower ball joint cotter pin if

it prevents the tool from seating on

the lower stud.

5.
Turn the tool with a wrench until

both studs are under tension, and

then, with a hammer, tap the spindle

near the upper stud to loosen the stud

F 1496-A

FIG. 8—Upper arm Support—Mustangprocarmanuals.com

03-02-09
Suspension

03-02-09

WOOD BLOCK
F
1287-A

FIG. 9—Upper
Arm
Support—

Montego, Falcon
and
Fairlane

Tool-T62F-3006-A

ARM SUPPORT

LOWER BALL JOINT
SLEEVE

Too/-T57P-3006-A

F 1157-C

FIG. TO—Loosening Ball Joint

Studs
in
Spindle—Typical

from
the
spindle.
Do not
loosen
the

stud with tool pressure alone. Raise

the stud
out of the
spindle bore.

6. Using
a
large chisel,
cut off the

three upper ball joint retaining rivets

and remove
the
ball joint.

7.
Clean
the end of the arm, and

remove
all
burrs from
the
hole edges.

Check
for
cracks
in the
metal
at the

holes,
and
replace
the arm if it is

cracked.

8. Attach
the new
ball joint
to the

upper
arm. Use
only
the
specified

bolts,
nuts,
and
washers.
Do not
rivet

the
new
ball joint
to the
arm. Torque

the nuts
to
specification (Part 3-13).

9. Position
the
lower ball joint stud

in
the
spindle bore,
and
torque
the at-

taching
nut to
specification. Install
a

new cotter
pin and
tighten
the nut if

necessary
to
line
up the
cotter
pin

hole.
Install
a new
cotter
pin in the

lower ball joint
if it was
removed.
1495-A

FIG. 11 —Shaft Centered
in

Arm—Typical

F 1494- A

FIG. 12—Torque Upper
Arm

Inner Shaft Bushings—Typical

10.
Lubricate
the
ball joint,
and in-

stall
the
wheel
and
tire. Torque
the

lug nuts
to
specification (Part 3-13).

11.
Remove
the
safety stands,
and

lower
the
vehicle.

12.
Remove
the
support from
be-

tween
the
upper
arm and
frame.

13.
Check
and, if
necessary, adjust

caster, camber,
and
toe-in.

UPPER ARM SHAFT AND/OR

BUSHING REPLACEMENT

COUGAR, FAIRLANE,

FALCON, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG

1.
Remove
the
shock absorber
and

upper mounting bracket
as an
assem-

bly.

2.
Raise
the
vehicle
on a
hoist,
in-

stall safety stands,
and
remove
the

wheel cover
or hub cap.

3.
Remove
the
grease
cap
from
the

hub;
then, remove
the
cotter
pin, nut

lock, adjusting
nut and
outer bearing

from
the hub.

4.
Pull
the
wheel, tire,
and the hub

and drum
off the
spindle
as an
assem-

bly.
5.
Install
the
spring compressor

tool (Figs.
20, 21 and 22).

6. Remove
2
upper arm-to-spring

tower attaching nuts
and
swing
the

upper
arm
outboard from
the
spring

tower.

7.
Rotate
the
inner shaft
so
that
the

studs
can be
removed. Remove
the

studs with
a
soft mallet.

8. Unscrew
the
bushings from
the

shaft
and
suspension
arm;
then,
re-

move
the
shaft from
the arm.

9. Position
the
shaft
in the. arm,

apply grease
to the new
bushings
and

O-rings,
and
install
the
bushings loose

on
the
shaft
and
arm. Turn
the
bush-

ings
so
that
the
shaft
is
exactly
cen-

tered.
The
shaft will
be
properly
cen-

tered when dimensions
A and B in

Fig.
11 are
equal.

10.
Fabricate
a
spacer from
a sec-

tion
of
3/4-inch diameter pipe
or

metal
of
comparable size
and

strength.
The
spacer should
be 6

15/16 inches long.

11.
Position
the
spacer parallel with

the inner shaft,
and
force
the
spacer

between
the
flanges
of the
upper
arm

(Fig.
12).

If
the
spacer cannot
be
forced
be-

tween
the arm
flanges due
to
excessive

distortion, replace
the
upper
arm as-

sembly.

12.
With
the
spacer positioned
in

the
arm,
torque
the
bushings
to
speci-

fication. Move
the arm on the
shaft
to

be sure that
no
binding exists, then
re-

move
the
spacer.

13.
Attach
the
suspension upper

arm
to the
underbody. Release
the

front spring.

14.
Remove
the
spring compressor

and position
the
wheel, tire,
and hub

and drum
on the
spindle.

15.
Install
the
bearing, washer,
ad-

justing
nut and nut
lock. Adjust
the

wheel bearing
as
outlined
in
Part
3-12

and install
the
cotter
pin,
grease
cap

and
hub cap or
wheel cover.

16.
Lower
the
vehicle
and
install

the shock absorber
and
upper mount-

ing bracket.

17.
Check caster, camber,
and toe-

in,
and
adjust
as
necessary (Part 3-1).

LOWER BALL JOINT

REPLACEMENT-

ARM
IN
VEHICLE

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK
III

1.
Raise
the
vehicle high enough
to

provide working space, leaving
theprocarmanuals.com

03-02-10
Suspension

03-02-10

lower
arm
free
to
drop
as
coil spring

tension
is
eased.
If a
chain hoist
or a

jack that
has
a
narrow contact
pad is

to
be
used
on the
bumper
to
raise
the

car, distribute
the
load along
the

bumper
by
using
a
steel plate
3 or 4

inches long
as a
contact
pad to pre-

vent damaging
the
bumper.

2.
If the
ball joint
is
riveted
to the

arm, drill
a
1/8-inch
pilot hole
com-

pletely through each rivet. Then drill

off
the
rivet head through
the
pilot

hole with
a
3/8-inch drill,
and
drive

out both rivets.

3.
Position
a
jack
or
safety stand

under
the
lower
arm, and
lower
the

vehicle about
6
inches
to
offset
the

coil spring tension.

4.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

ball joint stud,
and
remove
the nut.

5.
Place
a box
wrench over
the

lower
end
of the
tool shown
in
Fig.
7,

and position
the
tool.
The
tool should

seat firmly against
the end of
both

studs,
and
not
against
the
upper stud

nut.

6. Turn
the
wrench until both studs

are under tension,
and
then, with
a

hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the

lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the

spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with

tool pressure alone. Remove
the
ball

joint.

7.
Clean
the end of the arm, and

remove
all
burrs from
the
hole edges.

Check
for
cracks
in the
metal
at the

holes,
and
replace
the arm if it is

cracked.

8. Position
the
stud
of
the
ball joint

to
the
spindle bore,
and
install
the at-

taching
nut
finger-tight.

9. Attach
the
ball joint
to
the
lower

arm.
Use
only
the
specified bolts
and

nuts.
Do not
rivet
the new
ball joint
to

the
arm.
Torque nuts
to
specification.

10.
Torque
the
ball joint stud
nut

to specification,
and
install
a
new cot-

ter
pin.

11.
Remove
the
jack.

12.
Check
and, if
necessary, adjust

caster, camber,
and
toe-in. Whenever

any part
of the
front suspension
has

been removed
and
installed, front

wheel alignment must
be
checked.

BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

The lower ball joint
is
riveted
to
the

lower
arm
wheras
the
upper ball joint

is bolted
to the
upper
arm.
When
re-

placing
a
ball joint,
use all the
parts

supplied
in the kit.
T57P-3006-A
UPPER
ARM

UPPER BALL JOINT

LOWER BALL JOINT
\
LOWER
ARM

T62F.3006-A
F
1493-A

FIG. 13— Loosening Ball Joint

Stud

Lower
Arm

1.
Raise
the
vehicle. Place
a sup-

port under each rail
to the
rear
of
the

lower
arm in the
lifting
pad
area.

2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire from

the
hub.

3.
Remove
2
bolts
and
washers that

attach
the
caliper
to the
spindle.
Re-

move
the
caliper from
the
rotor
and

wire
it to the
underbody
to
prevent

damage
to the
brake hose.

4.
Remove
the hub and
rotor from

the spindle.

5.
Remove
the
splash shield
and

gasket from
the
spindle.

6. Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

lower ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut

one
to two
turns.

7.
Place
a box
wrench over
the

lower
end of the
ball joint remover

tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.

13.
The
tool should seat firmly against

the ends
of
both studs,
and not

against
the
lower stud
nut.

8. Turn
the
wrench until both studs

are under tension,
and
then, with
a

hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the

lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the

spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with

tool pressure alone.

9. Place
a
jack under
the
spring

pocket
in the
lower
arm, and
raise
the
arm slightly. Place
a
support stand

under
the
lower
arm as a
safety
pre-

caution.

10.
Remove
the nut
from
the
ball

joint stud. Raise
the
upper
arm and

spindle until
the
spindle clears
the
ball

stud. Prop
the
upper
arm in a
raised

position.

11.
Remove
the
ball -joint rivet

heads with
a
chisel. Punch
the
remain-

ing portion
of the
rivets from
the

holes,
and
remove
the
joint.

12.
Install
the
new
joint using
the

parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
the

nuts
to
specification. Make sure
the

joint
is
completely filled with
the
spec-

ified lubricant.

13.
Lower
the
upper
arm
while

guiding
the
spindle over
the
ball stud.

Install
the
stud
nut and
tighten
it to

specification. Continue
to
tighten
the

nut
to
line
up the
cotter
pin
hole.
In-

stall
the
cotter
pin.

14.
Install
the
gasket
and
shield
on

the spindle. Tighten
the
attaching

bolts
to
specifications.

15.
Install
the
hub and
rotor
on the

spindle
and
adjust
the
wheel bearings.

16.
Install
the
caliper
to
the
spindle

and tighten
the
attaching bolts
to

specifications. Check
for the
correct

flexible hose routing (Part
2-2).

17.
Install
the
wheel
and
tire.
Tor-

que
the
wheel nuts
to
specification
and

lower
the
vehicle.

Upper
Arm

1.
Place
a
jack under
the
outer
end

of
the
lower
arm,
and
raise
the arm.

Place
a
support stand under
the
side

rail
in the
lifting
pad
area.

2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire.

3.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

upper ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut

one
to two
turns.

%
4.
Place
a box
wrench over
the

lower
end of the
ball joint remover

tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.

13).
The
tool should seat firmly

against
the
ends
of
both studs,
and

not against
the
upper stud
nut.

5.
Turn
the
wrench until both studs

are under tension,
and
then, with
a

hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the

upper stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the

spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with

tool pressure alone.

6. Raise
the
upper
arm to
free
the

ball stud from
the
spindle. Wire
the

upper
end
of
the
spindle
to the
under-

body
to
prevent damage
to the
brake

hose.

7.
Remove
the
ball joint retaining

nuts
and
bolts,
and
remove
the
joint.

8. Install
the new
joint using
the

parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
theprocarmanuals.com

03-02-11
Suspension

03-02-11

nuts to specification. Make sure that

the joint is completely filled with the

specified lubricant.

9. Guide the ball joint stud into the

spindle. Install the stud nut and tor-

que it to specification. Continue to

tighten the nut to line up the cotter

pin hole. Install the cotter pin.

10.
Install the wheel and tire. Tor-

que the wheel nuts to specification.

STABILIZER REPAIR

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

To replace the end bushings on each

stabilizer link, use the following pro-

cedure.

1.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist.

2.
Remove the nut, washer and in-

sulator from the lower end of the sta-

bilizer bar attaching bolt.

3.
Remove the bolt and the remain-

ing washers(3) insulators (3) and the

spacer.

4.
Assemble a flat washer and a

new insulator on the bolt.

5.
Insert the bolt through the stabi-

lizer bar then install a new insulator

and a flat washer on it.

6. Install the spacer, flat washer

and another new insulator on the bolt

(Fig. 1).

7.
Insert the bolt through the lower

arm and install a new insulator and a

flat washer. Install and torque the at-

taching nut to specification.

COUGAR, FAIRLANE,

FALCON, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG

1.
Raise the vehicle high enough to

provide working space, and place sup-

ports under both front wheels.

2.
Disconnect the stabilizer from

each link. Disconnect both stabilizer

attaching brackets, and remove the

stabilizer.

3.
Coat the necessary parts of the

stabilizer with RUGLYDE or a com-

parable lubricant, and slide new insu-

lators onto the stabilizer.

4.
Secure each end of the stabilizer

bar to the lower arm making sure that

the bolt head is at the top (Fig. 2) to

eliminate interference with the brake

hose.

5.
Remove the supports and lower

the vehicle.
FRONT SUSPENSION LOWER

ARM STRUT AND/OR

BUSHING

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

1.
Remove the cotter pin from the

lower arm strut at the frame front

crossmember and remove the nut,

washer, and bushing from the strut.

2.
Remove nuts, washers, and bolts

attaching the strut and rubber bumper

to the lower arm (Fig. 1).

3.
Pull the strut from the frame

crossmember.

4.
Remove the crossmember rear

side bushing and washer from the

strut.

5.
Place the crossmember rear side

washer and bushing on the strut and

position the strut to the frame and

lower arm.

6. Position the rubber bumper on

the strut and install the bolts, washer,

and nuts attaching the strut to the

lower arm. Torque the nuts and bolts

to specification.

7.
Install the bushing, washer, and

nut on the strut at the front cross-

member. Tighten the nut and install

the cotter pin.

8. Check caster, camber, and toe-in

and adjust if necessary.

LOWER ARM STRUT AND/OR

BUSHING REPLACEMENT

COUGAR, FAIRLANE,

FALCON, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG

1.
Position the support as shown in

Figs.
8 and 9 under the upper arm.
2.
Raise the vehicle, position safety

stands, and remove the wheel and tire.

3.
Remove the cotter pin, castelated

nut and the adjustment nut from the

front of the strut.

4.
With two pry bars approximately

18 inches long, one at each side and at

the rear of the front washer, pry it

forward to separate the inner sleeve

from the outer sleeve. Remove the

front insulator from the strut (Fig.

26).

5.
Install the new rear washer

(large ID), outer sleeve and insulator

bushing on the forward end of the

strut rod.

6. Position the strut into the

crossmember and to the lower suspen-

sion arm. Install the strut-to-arm at-

taching bolts and nuts, and torque

them to specification.

7.
Install the forward insulator

washer (small ID), inner sleeve and

adjustment nut on the forward end of

the strut. The inner sleeve need not be

crimped to the outer sleeve.

8. Install the wheel and tire, re-

move the safety stands and lower the

vehicle. Remove the tool supporting

the upper arm.

9. Adjust the caster and camber to

specification.

10.
Install the castellated nut and

cotter pin.

DRIVE SHAFT PINION

ANGLE ADJUSTMENT

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

The pinion-drive shaft working

angle must be checked and adjusted to

ADJUSTING

SCREW

F1432- A
F1503-A

FIG. 14—Alignment Spacer

Installation
FIG. 75—Positioning Tool On

U-Jointprocarmanuals.com

03-02-12
Suspension

03-02-12

ECCENTRIC

WASHER

F1504-A

FIG. 76 —Measuring Pinion Angle

specification whenever the rear axle

has been removed.

Before checking the drive shaft pin-

ion angle, alignment height spacer

(Tool T65P-3OOO-B or C) must be in-

stalled at a height of 4.30 inches (Fig.

14).

Checking Procedure

The checking and adjusting proce-

dure must be done with the weight of

the vehicle on the front and rear sus-

pension.
UPPER ARM

KET

ECCENTRIC

WASHER

AXLE HOUSING

E1761-A

FIG.
17
—
Pinion
Angle Adjustment

1.
Position the magnetized Tool

T68P-4602-A on a U-joint bearing

cap as shown in Fig. 15.

2.
With the tool suspended straight

down and the adjusting screw to the

left, adjust the dial on the tool until

the left-hand edge of the bubble is ex-

actly on the zero line.

3.
Position the vee magnet on the

drive shaft away from welds and bal-

ance weights (Fig. 15).

4.
Position the magnetized tool

(T68P-4602-A) on the vee magnet

with the adjusting screw to the left in

the same relative position as it was on

the bearing cap (Fig. 16).

5.
Read the position of the bubbles

left-hand edge on the scale to deter-

mine the drive shaft pinion angle. The

reading should be 3 1/2 degrees plus 1
degree on Ford, Mercury or Meteor

models, 7 1/4 degrees plus 3/4 degree

on Thunderbird or Continental Mark

III models.

Adjustment

If the pinion angle is not within

specifications, adjust the pinion angle

as follows:

The upper arm-to-axle housing bolt

and two eccentric washers form an ad-

justing cam mechanism (Fig. 17)

which will tilt the axle housing to the

required angle.

1.
Loosen the upper arm pivot bolt

nuts.

2.
If the angle is less than specifica-

tions,
rotate the adjusting cam for-

ward and recheck the angle. If the

angle is more than specification, ro-

tate the adjusting cam rearward and

recheck the angle.

3.
When the axle housing is adjust-

ed in such a way that the drive shaft

angle reading is within specification,

install new pivot bolt nuts and torque

to specification (Fig. 17).

4.
Lower the vehicle and road test

for proper axle operation.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS

Damage to steering linkage compo-

nents and front suspension struts may

occur if care is not exercised when po-

sitioning the hoist adapters of 2 post

hoists prior to lifting the vehicle.

If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the

vehicle, place the adapters under the

lower arms or the No. 1 crossmember.

Do not allow the adapters to contact

the steering linkage. If the adapters

are placed under the crossmember, a

piece of wood (2 x 4 x 16 inches)

should be placed on the hoist channel

between the adapters. This will pre-

vent the adapters from damaging the

front suspension struts.
FRONT SPRING

REPLACEMENT

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK HI

Removal

1.
Raise the vehicle and support the

front end of the frame with jack

stands.

2.
Place a jack under the lower arm

to support it.

3.
Disconnect the lower end of the

shock absorber from the lower arm.

4.
Remove the bolts that attach the

strut and the rebound bumper to the

lower arm.
5.
Disconnect the lower end of the

sway bar stud from the lower arm.

6. Remove the nut and bolt that se-

cures the inner end of the lower arm

to the crossmember.

7.
Carefully lower the jack slowly

to relieve the spring pressure on the

lower arm, then remove the spring

(Fig. 18).

Installation

1.
Position the spring on the lower

arm so that the lower end properly

engages the seat.

2.
Raise the lower arm carefully

with a jack while guiding the inner

end to align with the bolt hole in the

crossmember. Insert the attaching bolt

in the rear of the crossmember andprocarmanuals.com