1969 FORD MUSTANG boot

02-02-39
Brake System

02-02-39

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

BRAKE DRUM REFINISHING

Minor scores on a brake drum can

be removed with sandpaper. A drum

that is excessively scored or shows a

total indicator runout of over 0.007

inch should be turned down. Remove

only enough stock to eliminate the

scores and true up the drum. The refi-

nished diameter must not exceed 0.060

inch oversize.

Check the inside diameter of the

brake drum with a brake drum mi-

crometer (Tool FRE-14^1).

If the drum diameter is less than

0.030 inch oversize after refinishing^

standard lining may be installed. If

the drum diameter is 0.030—0.060

inch oversize after refinishing, oversize

lining must be installed.

After a drum is turned down, wipe

the refinished surface with a cloth

soaked in clean denatured alcohol. If

one drum is turned down, the opposite

drum on the same axle should also be

cut down to the same size.

ROTOR REFINISHING

Rotunda Disc Brake Attachment,

FRE-2249-2, is the only recommended

tool to refinish the disc brake rotors.

The step-by-step resurfacing procedure

provided with the tool must be ad-

hered to.

The finished braking surfaces of the

rotor must be flat and parallel within

0.0007 inch; lateral runout must not

exceed 0.003 inch total indicator read-

ing, and the surface finish of the brak-

ing surfaces are to be 80/15 micro

inches. The minimum limiting dimen-

sions (Figs. 11 and 12, Part 2-1) from

the inboard bearing cup to the out-

board rotor face and from the inboard

bearing cup to the inboard rotor face

must be observed when removing ma-

terial from the rotor braking surfaces.

On all models except Lincoln Con-

tinental, the limiting dimensions are to

be measured with a ball and gage bar

(Rotunda Kit FRE-70160).

BRAKE SHOE RELINING

Brake linings that are worn to with-

in 1/32 inch of the rivet head or are

less than 0.030 inch thick (bonded lin-

ing) or have been contaminated with

brake fluid, grease or oil must be re-

placed. Failure to replace worn linings

will result in a scored drum. When it
is necessary to replace linings, they

must also be replaced on the wheel on

the opposite side of the vehicle.

Inspect brake shoes for distortion,

cracks, or looseness. If this condition

exists,
the shoe must be discarded. Do

not attempt to repair a defective brake

shoe.

1.
Wash the brake shoes thoroughly

in a clean solvent. Remove all burrs

or rough spots from the shoes.

2.
Check the inside diameter of the

brake drum with a brake drum mi-

crometer (tool FRE-1431). If the di-

ameter is less than 0.030 inches over-

size,
standard lining may be installed.

If the diameter is 0.030—0.060 inches

oversize, oversize lining should be in-

stalled.

3.
Position the new lining on the

shoe.
Starting in the center, insert and

secure the rivets, working alternately

towards each end. Replacement lin-

ings are ground and no further grind-

ing is required.

4.
Check the clearance between the

shoe and lining. The lining must seat

tightly against the shoe with not more

than 0.008 inch clearance between any

two rivets.

RETAINER - 2B245
DUAL MASTER CYLINDER

DISASSEMBLY

1.
Clean the outside of the master

cylinder and remove the filler cover

and diaphragm. Pour out any brake

fluid that remains in the cylinder. Dis-

card the old brake fluid.

2.*
Remove the secondary piston

stop bolt from the bottom of the cyl-

inder (Figs. 40 and 41).

3.
Remove the bleed screw, iL re-

quired.

4.
Depress the primary piston and

remove the snap ring from the retain-

ing groove at the rear of the master

cylinder bore (Fig. 42). Remove the

push rod and the primary piston as-

sembly from the master cylinder bore.

Do not remove the screw that retains

the primary return spring retainer, re-

turn spring, primary cup and protec-

tor on the primary piston. This assem-

bly is factory pre-adjusted and should

not be disassembled.

5.
Remove the secondary piston as-

sembly. Do not remove the outlet tube

seats,
outlet check valves and outlet

SECONDARY SYSTEM

BRAKE OUTLET
COVER -2166

GASKET-2167

MASTER CYLINDER -2155

SNAP RING -7821

BOOT

PUSH ROD

PRIMARY PISTON

ASSEMBLY - 2169

tTUBE SEAT-

2B220
* SECONDARY PISTON

ASSEMBLY - 2A502

• NOT USED ON POWER BRAKE EQUIPPED VEHICLES

fNOT SERVICED

•REPLACE AS AN ASSEMBLY ONLY

H 1499-B

FIG. 40— Dual Master Cylinder Disassembled—Except Disc Brakesprocarmanuals.com

02-02-40
Brake System

02-02-40

RETAINER - 2B245

PRIMARY PISTON

ASSEMBLY-2169

GASKET-2167

RETURN SPRING

RETAINER

\ CUP

\\PROTECTOR

^\i # PISTON
fNOT SERVICED

* REPLACE AS

ASSEMBLY ONLY

*O-RING

PUMPING CUP

tVALVE

2175

SECONDARY

BRAKE SYSTEM

OUTLET
*SECONDARY PISTON

ASSEMBLY-2A502

H 1550-B

FIG. 41—Dual Master Cylinder Disassembled—Disc Brakes

check valve springs from the master

cylinder body.
open and free of foreign matter. Use

an air hose to blow out dirt and clean-

ing solvent. Place all parts on a clean

pan or paper.

3.
Inspect the master cylinder bore

for signs of etching, pitting, scoring or

rust. If it is necessary to hone the

master cylinder bore to repair dam-

age,
do not exceed allowable hone

specifications.

ASSEMBLY

1.
Dip all parts except the master

cylinder body in clean Rotunda Extra

Heavy Duty Brake Fluid.

2.
Carefully insert the complete

secondary piston and return spring as-

sembly in the master cylinder bore.

3.
Install the primary piston assem-

bly in the master cylinder bore.

4.
Depress the primary piston and

install the snap ring in the cylinder

bore groove.

5.
Install the push rod, boot and re-

tainer on the push rod, if so equipped.

Install the push rod assembly into the

primary piston. Make sure the retain-

er is properly seated and holding the

push rod securely.

6. Position the inner end of the

push rod boot (if so equipped) in the

master cylinder body retaining groove.

7.
Install the secondary piston stop

INSPECTION AND REPAIR

1.
Clean all parts in clean isopropyl

alcohol, and inspect the parts for

chipping, excessive wear or damage.

When using a master cylinder repair

kit, install all the parts supplied.

2.
Check all recesses, openings and

internal passages to be sure they are

Snap Ring Pliers

SNAP RING

H1477-C

FIG. 42—Removing Snap

Ring—Typical
INNER BRAKE

SHOE AND LINING

ASSEMBLY-2019
OUTER SHOE

RETAINING CLIPS

2066

STABILIZER

2B295

LOCATING PIN

2B296

ANCHOR PLATE

2B293(L.H.)

2B292 (R.H.)
MOVABLE CALIPER

2B119(L.H.)

2B118(R.H.)

H 1573-C

FIG. 43—Caliper Assembly—Disassembled-

All Models Except Lincoln Continentalprocarmanuals.com

02-02-41
Brake System

02-02-41

bolt and G-ring in the bottom of the

master cylinder.

8. Install the bleed screw (if so

equipped). Install the gasket (dia-

phragm) in the master cylinder filler

cover. Position the gasket as shown in

Figs.
40 and 41. Make sure the gasket

is securely seated.

9. Install the cover and gasket on

the master cylinder and secure the

cover into position with the retainer.

DISC BRAKE CALIPER

ALL MODELS EXCEPT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Disassembly

1.
Remove the caliper assembly

from the vehicle as outlined in Section

2.

2.
Remove the caliper locating pins

from the caliper assembly and lift the

anchor plate from the caliper.

3.
Slide the two outer shoe retain-

ing clips off the retaining pins (Fig.

43).

4.
Remove the two retaining pins,

then remove the outer brake shoe

from the caliper.

5.
Slide the inner brake shoe out-

ward until it is free of the hold-down

springs, then remove the brake shoe.

6. Apply air pressure to the fluid

port in the caliper with a rubber

tipped nozzle (Tool 7000-DD) as

shown in Fig. 44 to remove the piston.

Place a cloth over the piston before

applying air pressure to prevent dam-

age to the piston. If the piston is

seized and cannot be forced from the

FIBER

BLOCK

CALIPER

PISTON

H 1574-B

FIG. 44 —Removing Piston From

Caliper —
All
Models Except

Lincoln Continental
caliper, tap lightly around the piston

while applying air pressure. Care

should be taken because the piston

can develop considerable force due to

pressure build-up.

7.
Remove the dust boot from the

caliper assembly.

8. Remove the rubber piston seal

from the cylinder and discard it.

Cleaning and Inspection

Clean all metal parts with isopropyl

alcohol or a suitable solvent. Use

clean, dry, compressed air to clean out

and dry the grooves and passage ways.

Be sure that the caliper bore and com-

ponent parts are completely free of

any foreign material.

Check the cylinder bore and piston

for damage or excessive wear. Replace

the piston if it is pitted, scored, or the

chrome plating is worn off.

Assembly

1.
Apply a film of clean brake fluid

to the new caliper piston seal and in-

stall it in the cylinder bore. Be sure

the seal does not become twisted and

that it is seated fully in the groove.

2.
Install a new dust boot by setting

the flange squarely in the outer groove

of the caliper bore.

3.
Coat the piston with the speci-

fied fluid and install the piston in the

cylinder bore. Spread the dust boot

over the piston as it is installed. Seat

the dust boot in the piston groove.

4.
Position the inner brake shoe so

that the ears of the shoe rests on the

top of the anchor plate bosses and be-

neath the hold-down springs.

5.
Install new caliper locating pin

insulators in the anchor plate.

6. Position the caliper on the an-

chor plate.

7.
Apply water or isopropyl alcohol

to the caliper locating pins and install

them loosely in the anchor plate. Be

sure the guide pins are free of oil,

grease or dirt.

8. Install the caliper on the spindle

as outlined under Disc Brake Caliper

Assembly.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Disassembly

Do not remove the bridge bolts that

hold the two halves of the caliper to-

gether. The two caliper housings are

shown separated in Fig. 46 for illus-

tration purposes only.
1.
Remove the caliper assembly

from the car as outlined in Section 2.

2.
Remove the two attaching bolts

and the caliper splash shield (Fig. 46).

3.
Remove the two shoe and lining

assemblies.

4.
Remove the flexible brake hose

from the caliper.

5.
Remove the external transfer

tube.

6. Remove the four dust boots from

the caliper housings and piston

grooves.

7.
Clamp the caliper in a vise and

secure it by the mounting flanges on

the inboard housing (Fig. 45).

8. Remove the four pistons from

the cylinder bores with the special tool

shown in Fig. 45. To prevent cocking

with consequent damage to the piston

or bore, rotate the piston with the tool

while pulling it outward at the same

time.
Be careful to avoid scratching or

damaging the outside diameter surface

or dust boot retaining groove of the

piston. Such damage causes poor seal-

ing.

If a piston is so completely seized in

the cylinder bore that it can not be re-

moved with the special tool, the cali-

per housing must be replaced, by posi-

tioning two screwdrivers in the piston

dust boot retaining groove and prying

outward. To prevent cocking, tap the

end of the piston lightly around the

circumference with a hammer, while

the prying force is being applied. Be

careful to avoid damaging the dust

boot retainer in the caliper housing

(Fig. 46). If this method of removal is

used, the pistons must be replaced.

If the caliper dust boot retainer or

retaining groove is damaged or

scratched, pry the retainer out of the

caliper housing with screwdrivers.

Too/-T65P-2
J
18- A

H 1652-A

FIG. 45—Removing or Installing

Pistons —
Lincoln
Continentalprocarmanuals.com

02-02-42
Brake System

02-02-42

CALIPER
ABUTMENTS

OUTBOARD
CALIPER HOUSING

DUST
BOOT RETAINING GROOVE

DUST
BOOT (4)
PISTON
SEAL (4)

EXTERNAL

TRANSFER
TUBE

SCREW

INBOARD
CALIPER HOUSING

FLEXIBLE
HOSE-^
H1367-C

FIG. 46—Caliper Assembly — Disassembled—Lincoln Continental

9. Remove the rubber piston seals

from the grooves in the cylinder bores

by carefully inserting the point of a

small knife or other pointed instru-

ment under the seal and raising the

seal up far enough to be pulled out

with the fingers.

Cleaning and Inspection

Clean all metal parts with isopropyl

alcohol or a suitable solvent (Fig. 46).

Use clean, dry, compressed air to

clean out and dry the grooves and

passage ways. Be sure that the caliper
bore and component parts are com-

pletely free of any foreign material.

Check the cylinder bores and pis-

tons for damage or excessive wear.

Replace the piston if it is pitted,

scored, or the chrome plating is worn

off. Check the caliper dust boot re-

tainer for wear or damage.

Assembly

1.
Clamp the caliper in a vise and

secure it by the mounting flange on

the inboard housing.

2.
Apply a film of clean brake fluid
to new caliper piston seals and install

them in the grooves of the cylinder

bore.
The seal should be positioned at

one area in the groove and gently

worked around. Do not use the origi-

nal seals.

3.
Install the new dust boots by set-

ting the flanges squarely in the outer

grooves of the caliper bores.

4.
Coat the pistons with the speci-

fied fluid and install the pistons inPthe

cylinder bores. Spread the dust boots

over the pistons as they are installed.

Seat the dust boots in the piston

grooves.

5.
Coat the outside diameter of the

pistons with brake fluid and install

them in the cylinder bores so that the

open end of the piston and ihe boot

retaining groove face out of the bore.

To avoid cocking, locate the piston

squarely in the bore and apply a slow

steady pressure. If a piston will not

easily go all the way into the bore, re-

move it and thoroughly inspect the

cylinder bore, the piston seal and the

installation of the seal. If the piston

still will not go in with bore in good

condition and the piston seal properly

installed, use the tool shown in Fig.

45.
Rotate the piston with the tool

while pushing it inward at the same

time.

6. Carefully install four new dust

boots on the caliper housings and pis-

tons.
Be sure that each boot is fully

seated in the groove of its respective

caliper housing and piston (Fig. 46).

Do not use the original dust boots.

7.
Install the external transfer tube.

8. Install the flexible brake hose to

the caliper.

9. Install the caliper assembly on

the spindle, and install the shoe and

lining assemblies and the splash shield

as outlined in Section 2. Check the

caliper for fluid leaks under maximum

pedal pressures. Do not move the car

until a firm brake pedal is obtained.procarmanuals.com

03-04-03
Automatic Air Leveling System — Lincoln Continental

03-04-03

outlet lines to their respective parts.

3.
Adjust the trim height as de-

tailed in Section 4.

4.
Connect the link to the arm.

5.
Remove the jack stands and

lower the vehicle.

SUPER LIFT SHOCK ABSORBER

REMOVAL

1.
Raise the vehicle and place jack

stands under the axle to compress the

super lift.

2.
Loosen the air line or lines (right

super lift) slowly to release the air
from the system. Then, disconnect the

line or lines.

3.
Remove the three mounting plate

attaching screws from the upper end

of the super lift.

4.
Remove the attaching nut and

washer from the lower end of the

super lift and remove it from the vehi-

cle.

5.
Remove the nut, outer washer

and the insulator that attach the super

lift to the mounting plate. Remove the

plate, remaining insulator and washer.

INSTALLATION

1.
Position a washer, insulator,

mounting plate, insulator, washer and
nut on the stud at the upper end of

the super lift. Torque the nut to speci-

fication.

2.
Install the mounting plate, outer

insulator, washer and nut on the stud.

Torque the nut to specification.

3.
Attach the mounting plate and

shock absorber to the crossmember

with the attaching screws to specifica-

tions.

4.
Connect the lower end of the

super lift to the mounting stud with

the washers and attaching nut. Torque

the nut to specification.

5.
Connect the air line or lines

(right super lift) to the super lift.

6. Start the engine and check for

leaks.

3 IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

REGULATOR ADJUSTMENT HEIGHT CONTROL VALVE

The regulator may be adjusted if

the regulator pressure is under 100 psi

with the reservoir pressure at a mini-

mum of 140 psi. If the regulated pres-

sure exceeds 130 psi, the regulator

must be replaced.

To adjust the regulator, remove the

boot and reposition the sleeve and re-

tainer deeper into the body of the re-

gulator, using a deep well socket (Fig.

4).
If the regulator pressure remains

under 100 psi, replace regulator.
SILICONE FLUID

REPLACEMENT

If the height control valve time

delay does not fall within specifica-

tion, the silicone fluid must be re-

placed. Then repeat the time delay

test. If delay is still not within specifi-

cations, replace the height control

valve.

1.
Remove control valve and clean
the exterior of the valve thoroughly.

2.
Position the valve with delay

plug on top. Remove delay plug and

drain silicone fluid from the chamber.

Remove the O-ring from the chamber

(Fig. 5), and discard the O-ring.

3.
Remove the cover plate retaining

ring, using snap ring pliers. Remove

the delay cover from the valve body.

Remove the O-ring from the chamber,

and discard the O-ring.

4.
Place a new O-ring over the

delay plug and install the plug. Tor-

que the plug to 20-30 in-lbs. .

5.
Pour silicone fluid into the delay

piston chamber until fluid level is 5/16

inch below the top edge of the body.

Add or remove fluid with an eye drop-

per until the proper fluid level is

reached.

6. Hold the control valve body in a

vise with the delay chamber elevated

slightly. Carefully operate the lever to

purge trapped air from the fluid.

7.
Place a new O-ring in the groove

around the delay piston bore. Install

5/16" TO

FLUID LEVEL

F 1405 A

FIG. 4—Adjusting Regulator
F1406 A

FIG. 5—Replacing Silicone Fluidprocarmanuals.com

03-07-04
Ford Design Non-Integral Power Steering System

03-07-04

12.
Stop the engine, and check the

control valve and hose connections for

fluid leaks. Correct the cause of any

leaks.

13.
Check the fluid level, and refill

the reservoir if necessary.

14.
With the engine running check

the position of the steering wheel

when the front wheels are in the

straight-ahead position.Do not make

any adjustments until toe-in is

checked.

15.
Keep the engine running, and

check toe-in. If either toe-in or steer-

ing wheel position is not correct make

all necessary adjustments (Part 3-1) at

the spindle connecting rod sleeves.

16.
Check the effort to turn the

wheels in both directions. The effort

should be about equal in both direc-

tions.

POWER CYLINDER

REMOVAL

1.
Disconnect the two fluid lines

from the power cylinder and allow

them to drain into a container.
CENTER LINK

POWER CYLINDER

Tool- T64P-3590-F

G 1654-A

FIG. 5—Disconnecting Power

Cylinder Stud

2.
Remove the 'pal nut, attaching

nut, washer and the insulator from the

end of the power cylinder rod.

3.
Remove the cotter pin and cas-

tellated nut that secures the power

cylinder stud to the center link.

4.
Disconnect the power cylinder

stud from the center link as shown in

Fig. 5.

5.
Remove the insulator sleeve and

washer from the end of the power cyl-

inder rod.
6. Inspect the tube fittings and the

seats in the power cylinder for nicks,

burrs or damage. Replace the seats in

the cylinder or the tubes as required.

INSTALLATION

1.
Install the washer, sleeve and the

insulator on the end of the power cyl-

inder rod.

2.
Extend the rod as far as possible.

Insert the rod in the bracket on the

frame and compress the rod as neces-

sary to insert the stud in the -center

link. Secure the stud with a castellat-

ed, nut and a cotter pin.

3.
Secure the power cylinder rod

with an insulator, washer, nut and a

pal nut.

4.
Connect each of the two fluid

lines to its respective port in the cylin-

der.

5.
Fill the reservoir to the correct

level.

6. Start the engine and turn the

steering wheel to each end of its travel

several times to cycle the system. Stop

the engine.

7.
Check the fluid level and fill as

necessary. Install the dipstick and cap.

8. Start the engine and check for

leaks.

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

CONTROL VALVE

DISASSEMBLY

1.
Wipe all fluid and loose dirt

from the outside of the control valve.

2.
Remove the centering spring cap

from the valve housing (Fig. 6).

When holding the control valve for

disassembly, use a soft-jawed vise, and

clamp the valve only around the sleeve

flange to prevent damage to the hous-

ing, spool, or sleeve.

3.
Remove the nut from the end of

the valve spool bolt. Remove the

washers, spacer, centering spring,

adapter, and bushing from the bolt

and the valve housing.

4.
Remove the two bolts that hold

the valve housing and the sleeve to-

gether, and separate the housing from

the sleeve.

5.
Remove the plug from the valve

sleeve.

6. Push the valve spool out of the

centering spring end of the valve hous-

ing, and remove the seal from the

spool.

7.
Remove the spacer, bushing, and

seal from the sleeve end of the valve

housing.
8. Drive the stop pin out of the

travel regulator stop with a punch and

hammer (Fig. 7). Pull the head of the

valve spool bolt tightly against the

travel regulator stop before driving the

pin out of the stop.

9. Turn the travel regulator stop

counterclockwise in the valve sleeve to

remove the stop from the sleeve.

10.
Remove the valve spool bolt,

spacer, and rubber washer from the

travel regulator stop.

11.
Remove the rubber boot and

clamp from the valve sleeve.

12.
Slide the bumper, spring, and

ball stud seat out of the valve sleeve,

and remove the ball stud socket from

the sleeve.

13.
After removing the return port

hose seat, remove the return port re-

lief valve.

14.
After removing the spring plug

and O-ring, remove the reaction limit-

ing valve (Fig. 8).

Tube Seat Replacement

If a hose seat is worn or damaged it

should be replaced. It can be removed

with an Easy-Out tool, or by using a

bolt of appropriate size as a puller.
1.
Tap the existing hole in the hose

seat, using a starting tap of suitable

size.
Be sure to remove all metal chips

from the hose seat port after tapping.

2.
Place a nut and large flat washer

on a bolt of the same size as the

tapped hole. The washer must be large

enough to cover the hose seat port.

3.
Insert the bolt in the tapped

hole,
and using the nut as a puller, re-

move the hose seat.

4.
Place a new hose seat in the

port, and thread a bolt of suitable size

into the port. Tighten the bolt enough

to bottom the seat in the port.

ASSEMBLY

Before assembling the control valve,

coat all parts except the seals with

Automatic Transmission Fluid. Coat

the seals with lubricant COAZ-

19553-A.

1.
Install the reaction limiting

valve, the spring, and the plug.

2.
Install the return port relief valve

and the hose seat.

3.
Insert one of the ball stud seats

(flat end first) into the ball stud sock-

et, and insert the threaded end of the

ball stud into the socket.procarmanuals.com

03-07-05
Ford Design Non-Integral Power Steering System

03-07-05

•
SPRING

SEAT
REACTION
SPRING

\
REACTION

\
VALVE
VALVE

HOUSING
SPRING PLUG

AND O-RING SPACER

WASHERX
CUSHION

STOP
PIN

TRAVEL

REGULATOR

CLAMP

FIG. 6—Control Valve Disassembled—Typical

4.
Place
the
socket
in the
control

valve sleeve
so
that
the
threaded
end

of
the
ball stud
can be
pulled
out

through
the
slot
in the
sleeve (Fig.
9).

5.
Place
the
other ball stud seat,

and spring,
and the
bumper (Fig.
6) in

the socket,
and
install
and
securely

tighten
the
travel regulator stop.

6. Loosen
the
stop just enough
to

align
the
nearest hole
in the
stop with

the slot
in the
ball stud socket,
and in-

stall
the
stop
pin in the
ball stud sock-

VAIVE

SPOOL

BOLT

BALL
STUD

SOCKET

TRAVEL

REGULATOR

STOP

G
1656-A

FIG. 7—Removing Stop
Pin
et, travel regulator stop,
and
valve

spool bolt
(Fig. 7).

7.
Install
the
rubber boot, clamp,

and
the
plug
on the
control valve

sleeve. Make sure that
the
lubrication

fitting
is
turned
on
tightly
and
does

not bind
on the
ball stud socket.

8. Insert
the
valve spool
in the
valve

housing. Rotate
the
spool while insert-

ing
it in the
housing
(Fig. 10).

9. Move
the
spool toward
the cen-

tering spring
end of the
housing,
and

place
the
small seal bushing,
and spa-

cer
in the
sleeve
end of the
housing.

10.
Press
the
valve spool against

the inner
lip of the
seal
and, at the

same time, guide
the lip of the
seal

over
the
spool with
a
small screwdriv-

G
1657-A

FIG. 8—Removing Reaction Valve

Plug
er.
Do not
nick
or
scratch
the
seal
or

the spool during installation.

11.
Place
the
sleeve
end of the

housing
on a
flat surface
so
that
the

seal, bushing,
and
spacer
are at the

bottom
end and
push down
the
valve

spool until
it
stops.

12.
Carefully install
the
spool seal

and bushing
in the
centering spring

end
of the
housing. Press
the
seal

against
the end of the
spool., guiding

the seal over
the
spool with
a
small

screwdriver.
Do not
nick
or
scratch

the seal
or the
spool during installa-

tion.

CONTROL

VALVE
SLEEVE

BALL
STUD
SEAT-

BALL
STUD'

BALL
STUD
SOCKET'

G
16
58-A

FIG. 9—Installing Ball Socket,

Seal
and
Bracketprocarmanuals.com

06-02-07
Ford Design Three Speed Transmission

06-02-07

SNAP RINGS

FIG. 15—Input Shaft Gear Disassembled
C1802-
A

REMOVAL
INSTALLATION

C1O25-B

FIG. 76—Replacing Input Shaft

Bearing
chronizer
hub.
Make sure that
the

spring covers
all
insert grooves. Start

the
hub in the
sleeve making sure that

the alignment marks
are
properly
in-

dexed. Position
the
three inserts
in the

hub making sure that
the
small
end is

over
the
spring
and
that
the
shoulder

is
on the
inside
of the hub.
Slide
the

sleeve
and
reverse gear onto
the hub

until
the
detent
is
engaged. Install
the

front insert spring
in the hub to
hold

the inserts against
the hub. Be
sure

the spring humps
of the
rear spring

cover different inserts than
the
front

spring humps (Fig.
20).

BLOCKING RING

SLEEVE
AND

REVERSE GEAR

C1803-
A

FIG. 17—First
and
Reverse Synchronizer Disassembled

INSERT
HUB AND
SLEEVE ALIGNMENT MARKS

SPRING

BLOCKING m$ERTS

RING
INSERT SPRING

C1804-
A

FIG. 18—Second
and
Third Synchronizer Disassembled
4.
Install
one
insert spring (Fig.
18)

into
a
groove
of the
second
and
third

speed synchronizer
hub,
making sure

that
all
three insert slots
are
fully cov-

ered. With
the
alignment marks
on

the
hub and
sleeve aligned, start
the

hub into
the
sleeve. Place
the
three
in-

serts
on top of the
retaining spring

and push
the
assembly together.
In-

stall
the
remaining insert spring
so

that
the
spring ends cover
the
same

slots
as
does
the
other spring.
Do not

stagger
the
springs. Place
a
synchro-

nizer blocking ring
on
each
end of the

synchronizer sleeve.

COUNTERSHAFT GEAR

BEARINGS

1.
Remove
the
dummy shaft, fifty

roller bearings,
and the two
bearing

retainer washers from
the
countershaft

gear (Fig.
21).

2.
Coat
the
bore
in
each
end of the

countershaft gear with grease.

3.
Hold
the
dummy shaft
in the

gear
and
install
the
twenty-live roller

bearings
and a
retainer washer
in
each

end
of the
gear.

4.
Position
the
countershaft gear,

dummy shaft,
and
roller bearings
in

the case.

5.
Place
the
case
in a
vertical posi-

tion. Align
the
gear bore
and the

thrust washers with
the
bores
in the

case
and
install
the
countershaft.

6. Place
the
case
in a
horizontal

position
and
check
the
countershaft

gear
end
play with
a
feeler gauge.
The

end play should
be
within specifica-

tion.
If not
within specification,
re-

place
the
thrust washers.

7.
After establishing
the
correct end

play, install
the
dummy shaft
in the

countershaft gear
and
allow
the
gear

to remain
at the
bottom
of the
case

until
the
output
and
input shafts have

been installed.

GEAR SHIFT LEVER
AND

CONTROL ASSEMBLY

REMOVAL
AND

INSTALLATION—

FLOOR-MOUNTED

1.
Remove
the
four screws attach-

ing
the
lower boot
to the
floor
pan.

2.
Remove
the two
bolts attaching

the gear shift lever
to the
control
as-

sembly.

3.
Remove
the two
piece lock nuts

that connect
the
shift rods
to the con-

trol assembly.

4.
Remove
the
three bolts retaining

the shift control assembly
to the ex-

tension housing. Allow
the
back-up

light switch
to
hang free.procarmanuals.com