
ENGINE 6-15
2.
Install rocker arms, rocker arm balls and rocker
arm
nuts.
\
Tighten rocker arm nuts until all lash is
eliminated. .
3.
Adjust valves when lifter is on base circle of cam-
shaft lobe as follows:
a. Mark distributor housing, with chalk, at each cyl-
inder position (plug wire) then disconnect plug
wires at spark plugs and coil and remove distri-
butor cap and plug wire assembly (if not previ-
ously done).
b.
Crank engine until distributor rotor points to
number one cylinder position and breaker points
are open. Both valves on number one cylinder
may now be adjusted.
c. Back out adjusting nut until lash is felt at the push
rod then turn in adjusting nut until all lash is re-
moved. This can be determined by checking push
rod side play while turning adjusting nut (fig. 2L).
When play has been removed, turn adjusting nut
in one full additional turn (to center lifter
plunger).
d. Adjust the remaining valves, one cylinder at a
time,
in the same manner.
4.
Install distributor cap and spark plug wire assembly.
5.
Install rocker arm cover as outlined.
6. Adjust carburetor idle speed and mixture.
VALVE LIFTERS
Hydraulic valve lifters very seldom require attention.
The lifters are extremely simple in design readjustments
are not necessary, and servicing of the lifters requires
only that care and cleanliness be exercised in the han-
dling of parts.
Locating Noisy Lifters
Locate a noisy valve lifter by using a piece of garden
Fig.
2L - Valve Adjustment
hose approximately four feet in length. Place one end of
the hose near the end of each intake and exhaust valve
with the other end of the hose to the ear. In this manner,
the sound is localized making it easy to determine which
lifter is at fault.
Another method is to place a finger on the face of the
valve spring retainer. If the lifter is not functioning
properly, a distinct shock will be felt when the valve
returns to its seat.
The general types of valve lifter noise are as follows:
1.
Hard Rapping Noise--Usually caused by the plunger
becoming tight in the bore of the lifter body to such
an extent that the return spring can no longer push
the plunger back up to working position. Probable
causes are:
a. Excessive varnish or carbon deposit causing
abnormal stickiness.
b.
Galling or "pickup" between plunger and bore of
lifter body, usually caused by an abrasive piece
of dirt or metal wedging between plunger and
lifter body.
2.
Moderate Rapping Noise--Probable causes are:
a. Excessively high leakdown rate.
b.
Leaky check valve seat.
c. Improper adjustment.
3.
General Noise Throughout the Valve Train—This
will, in almost all cases, be a definite indication of
insufficient oil supply, or improper adjustment.
4.
Intermittent Clicking—Probable causes are:
a. A microscopic piece of dirt momentarily caught
between ball seat and check valve ball.
b.
In rare cases, the ball itself may be
out-of-
round or have a flat spot.
c. Improper adjustment.
In most cases where noise exists in one or more lifters
all lifter units should be removed, disasssmbled, cleaned
in a solvent, reassembled, and reinstalled in the engine.
If dirt, varnish, carbon, etc. is shown to exist in one unit,
it more than likely exists in all the units, thus it would
only be, a matter of time before all lifters caused trouble.
Removal
1.
Remove valve mechanism as outlined.
2.
Mark distributor housing, with chlak, at each cylin-
der position (plug wire) then disconnect plug wires at
spark plugs and coil and remove distributor cap and
plug wire assembly.
3.
Crank engine until distributor rotor points to number
one position, then disconnect distributor primary lead
at coil and remove distributor.
4.
Remove push rod covers (discard gaskets).
5.
Remove valve lifters.
NOTE: Place valve lifters in a rack so they
may be reinstalled in the same location.
Installation
1.
Install valve lifters.
NOTE:
Whenever new valve lifters are being
installed, coat foot of valve lifters with Molykote
or its equivalent.
2.
Install push rod covers, using new gaskets, and
torque bolts to specifications.
3.
Install distributor, positioning rotor to number one
cylinder position, then connect primary lead at coil.
4.
Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined.
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

SECTION 6K
ENGINE COOLING
INDEX
Page
General Description . . . 6K-1
Maintenance and Adjustments 6K-1
Coolant Level 6K-1
Coolant System Checks 6K-1
Periodic Maintenance 6K-2
Cleaning 6K-2
Reverse Flushing 6K-2
Radiator 6K-2
Page
Cylinder Block and Cylinder Head 6K-2
Hot Water Heater 6K-2
Fan Belt . 6K-2
Adjustment ....". 6K-2
Thermostat . 6K-2
Replacement 6K-2
Water Pump. . . . 6K-3
Removal 6K-3
Installation 6K-3
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
A pressure cooling system is provided for on all
models by a pressure type radiator cap (fig. 1). The
pressure type radiator cap used is designed to hold a
pressure above atmospheric pressure in the cooling
system. Excessive pressure is relieved by a valve within
the cap that opens to radiator overflow.
The water pump is a ball bearing, centrifugal vane
impeller type. It requires no care other than to make
certain the air vent at the top of the housing and the drain
holes in the bottom do not become plugged with dirt or
grease. Removal and installation of the water pump is
covered in this section. For overhaul procedures of the
water pump refer to Section 6K of the Passenger Chassis
Overhaul Manual.
For radiator, refer to Section 13 of this manual For
radiator shroud, refer to Section 11 of this manual.
Fig.
I—Pressure Radiator Cap
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS
Coolant Level
The radiator coolant level should only be checked when
the engine is cool, particularly on cars equipped with air
conditioning. If the radiator cap is removed from a hot
cooling system, serious personal injury may result
The cooling system fluid level should be maintained
one inch below the bottom of the filler neck of the radia-
tor when cooling system is cold, or at the bottom of the
filler neck when the system is warm. It is very impor-
tant that the correct fluid level be maintained. The seal-
ing ability of the radiator cap is affected when the cooling
level is too high.
All passenger car cooling systems are pressurized
with a pressure cap which permits safe engine operation
at cooling temperatures of
up
to 247°F.
When the radiator cap is removed or loosened, the
system pressure drops to atmospheric, and the heat
which had caused water temperature to be higher than
212°F, will be dissipated by conversion of water to
steam. Inasmuch as the steam may form in the engine
water passages, it will blow coolant out of the radiator
upper hose and top tank, necessitating coolant replace-
ment Engine operating temperatures higher than the
normal boiling point of water are in no way objectionable
so long as the coolant level is satisfactory when the
engine is cooL
Upon repeated coolant loss, the pressure radiator cap
and seat should be checked for sealing ability. Also, the
cooling system should be checked for loose hose con-
nections, defective hoses, gasket leaks, etc.
Coolant System Checks
1.
Test for restriction in the radiator, by warming the
engine up and then turning the engine off and feeling
the radiator. The radiator should be hot at the top
and warm at the bottom, with an even temperature
rise from bottom to top. Cold spots in the radiator
indicate clogged sections.
2.
Water pump operation may be checked by running the
engine while squeezing the upper radiator hose. A
pressure surge should be felt Check for a plugged
vent-hole in pump.
NOTE:
A defective head gasket may allow ex-
haust gases to leak into the cooling system.
This is particularly damaging to the cooling
system as the gases combine with the water to
form acids which are particularly harmful to
the radiator and engine.
3.
To check for exhaust leaks into the cooling system,
drain the system until the water level stands just
above the top of the cylinder head, then disconnect
the upper radiator hose and remove the thermostat
and fan belt. Start the engine and quickly accelerate
several times. At the same time note any appreci-
able water rise or the appearance of bubbles which
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

ENGINE COOLING 6K-2
are indicative of exhaust gases leaking into the coolr
ing system.
Periodic Maintenance
Periodic service must be performed to the engine cool-
ing system to keep it in efficient operating condition.
These services should include a complete cleaning and
reverse flushing as well as a reconditioning service.
In the course of engine operation, rust and scale ac-
cumulate in the radiator and engine water jacket. The
accumulation of these deposits can be kept to a minimum
by the use of a good rust inhibitor but it should be
remembered that an inhibitor will not remove rust al-
ready present in the cooling system.
Two common causes of corrosion are: (1) air suction--
Air may be drawn into the system due to low liquid level
in the radiator, leaky water pump or loose hose con-
nections; (2) exhaust gas leakage—Exhaust gas may be
blown into the cooling system past the cylinder head
gasket or through cracks in the cylinder head and block.
Cleaning
A good cleaning solution should be used to loosen the
rust and scale before reverse flushing the cooling
system. There are a number of cleaning solutions avail-
able and the manufacturer's instructions with the particu-
lar cleaner being used should always be followed.
An excellent preparation to use for this purpose is GM
Cooling System Cleaner. The following directions for
cleaning the system applies only when this type cleaner
is-used.
1.
Drain the cooling system including the cylinder block
and then close both drain plugs.
2.
Remove thermostat and replace thermostat housing.
3.
Add the liquid portion (No. 1) of the cooling system
cleaner.
4.
Fill the cooling system with water to a level of about
3 inches below the top of the overflow pipe.
5. Cover the radiator and run the engine at moderate
speed until engine coolant temperature reaches 180
degrees.
6. Remove cover from radiator and continue to run the
engine for 20 minutes. Avoid boiling.
7. While the engine is still running, add the powder
portion (No. 2) of the cooling system cleaner and
continue to run the engine for 10 minutes.
8. At the end of this time, stop the engine, wait a few
minutes and then open the drain cocks or remove
pipe plugs. Also remove lower hose connection.
CAUTION: Be careful not to scald your hands.
NOTE:
Dirt and bugs may be cleaned out of
the radiator air passages by blowing out with air
pressure from the back of the core.
Reverse Flushing
Reverse flushing should always be accomplished after
the system is thoroughly cleaned as outlined above.
Flushing is. accomplished through the system in a direc-
tion opposite to the normal flow. This action causes the
water to get behind the corrosion deposits and force
them out.
Radiator
1.
Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and re-
place the radiator cap,
2.
Attach a lead-away hose at the top of the radiator.
3.
Attach a new piece of hose to the radiator outlet
connection and insert the flushing gun in this hose.
4.
Connect the water hose of the flushing gun to a water
outlet and the air hose to an air line.
5. Turn on the water and when the radiator is full, turn
on the air in short blasts, allowing the radiator to
fill between blasts of air.
CAUTION: Apply air gradually as a clogged
radiator will stand only a limited pressure.
6. Continue this flushing until the water from the lead-
away hose runs clear.
Cylinder Block and Cylinder Head
1.
With the thermostat removed, attach a lead-away
hose to the water pump inlet and a length of new hose
to the water outlet connection at the top of the engine.
NOTE:
Disconnect the heater hose when re-
verse flushing engine.
2.
Insert the flushing gun in the new hose.
3.
Turn on the water and when the engine water jacket
is full, turn on the air in short blasts.
4.
Continue this flushing until the water from the lead-
away hose runs clear.
Hot Water Heater
1.
Remove water outlet hose from heater core pipe.
2.
Remove inlet hose from engine connection.
3.
Insert flushing gun and flush heater core. Care must
be taken when applying air pressure to prevent
damage to the core.
Fan Belt
Adjustment
1.
Loosen bolts at Delcotron slotted bracket.
2.
Pull Delcotron away from engine until desired ten-
sion reading is obtained with a strand tension gauge.
Refer to Section 6, "Engine Tune-Up".
3.
Tighten all Delcotron bolts securely.
Thermostat
The thermostat consists of a restriction valve actuated
by a thermostatic element. This is mounted in the hous-
ing at the cylinder head water outlet above the water
pump,
thermostats are designed to open and close at
predetermined temperatures and if not operating properly
should be removed and tested as follows.
Replacement
1.
Remove radiator to water outlet hose.
2.
Remove thermostat housing bolts and remove water
outlet and gasket from thermostat housing (fig. 2).
3.
Inspect thermostat valve to make sure it is in good
condition.
4.
Place thermostat in hot water 25° above the temper-
ature stamped on the thermostat valve.
5. Submerge the valve completely and agitate the water
thoroughly. Under this condition the valve should
open fully.
6. Remove the thermostat and place in water 10° below
temperature indicated on the valve.
7. With valve completely submerged and water agitated
thoroughly, the valve should close completely.
8. If thermostat checks satisfactorily, re-install, using
a new housing gasket.
9. Refill cooling system.
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

ENGINE FUEL
6M-10
the
two
"FILL71 lines
(fig.
6A). Refill whenever
the
level
falls below the lower
<'FILL"
line.
Storing Tool
When
the
tool
is
not used, fully depress
the
inner tube.
This seals
off
the
oil
reservoir from the vent hole
to pre-
vent
oil
loss
if
the tool
is
tipped.
Fig. 6A-Filling Tool with
Oil
FUEL PUMP
INDEX
Page
General Description
. . . . 6M-10
Service Procedures .6M-10
Inspection .6M-10
Page
Test
. . ; 6M-10
Removal
6M-11
Installation
6M-11
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
The fuel pump
(fig. IP)
used
on all
Chevrolet vehicles
covered
in
this manual
are of the
diaphragm type.
The
pumps
are
actuated
by an
eccentric located on
the
engine
camshaft.
On
in-line engines,
the
eccentric actuates
the
rocker arm*
On V-8
engines,
a
push
rod
(located be-
tween
the
camshaft eccentric and fuel pump) actuates
the
pump rocker
arm.
Because
of
design, this pump
is
serviced
as an
assembly only.
Fig.
IP—Fuel Pump (Non-Serviceable)
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Inspection
The fuel pump should
be
checked
to
make sure
the
mounting bolts
and
inlet and outlet connections
are
tight.
Test
Always test pump while
it is
mounted on the engine
and
be sure there
is
gasoline
in
the tank.
The line from
the
tank
to the
pump
is the
suction side
of
the
system and the line from the pump
to the
carbure-
tor
is the
pressure side
of the
system.
A
leak on
the
pressure side, therefore, would
be
made apparent
by
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

AIR INJECTOR REACTOR SYSTEM
6T-3
MIXTURE
CONTROL
VALVE
SIGNAL
PUMP PRESSURE
(MIXTURE VALVE INLET)
PUMP PRESSURE
(AIR MANIFOLD INLET)
IN LINE
AIR INJECTION
PUMP INLET
MIXTURE
CONTROL
VALVE
SIGNAL
MIXTURE
CONTROL
VALVE
OUTLET
MIXTURE
CONTROL
VALVE
INLET
AIR INJECTION
PUMP INLET
V8 (TYPICAL)
PUMP PRESSURE
(AIR MANIFOLD INLET)
MIXTURE CONTROL
VALVE INLET
MIXTURE CONTROL
VALVE SIGNAL
AIR INJECTION
PUMP INLET
PUMP PRESSURE^
(AIR MANIFOLD
J
MIXTURE CONTROL
VALVE OUTLET
V8 (396-427)
Fig.
4—Air Manifold Hose and Tube Routing (Typical)
a straight pipe thread.
Do
not use
a 1/4"
tapered
pipe
tap. The
hoses
of
the
Air
Injection Reactor
System
are a
special material
to
withstand high
temperature.
No
other type hose should
be
substituted.
• Install
new
hose(s) and/or tube(s), routing them
as
when removed.
• Tighten
all
connections.
NOTE:
Use
anti seize compound
on
threads
of
the
air
manifold
to
exhaust manifold
or
cylinder
head connections.
NOTE:
On
Chevy
n
vehicles equipped with
a
V8 engine,
the air
injection tubes
are
part
of the
air manifold
and
care must
be
used
in
removing
them from
the
exhaust manifold.
It may be
necessary
to
remove
the
exhaust manifold
and
use penetrating
oil on the
injection tubes before
the
air
manifold can
be
removed.
Check Valve
Inspection
•
The
check valve should
be
inspected whenever
the
hose
is
disconnected from
the
check valve
or
when-
ever check valve failure
is
suspected. (A pump that
,
had
become inoperative and had shown indications
of
having exhaust gases
in the
pump would indicate
check valve failure)..
• Orally blow through
the
check valve (toward
air
manifold) then attempt
to
suck back through check
valve. Flow should only
be in one
direction (toward
the
air
manifold).
Replacement
• Disconnect pump outlet hose
at
check valve. Remove
check valve from
air
manifold, being careful not
to
bend
or
twist
air
manifold.
Mixture Control Valve
Inspection
• Check condition
and
routing
of all
lines especially
the signal line.
A
defective signal
or
outlet line will
cause malfunctioning
of the
mixture control valve.
• Disconnect pump
to
valve inlet hose
at
pump.
• Leaking valve will
be
indicated
by an air
gushing
noise coming from
the
hose. Place palm
of
hand over
hose; little
or no
pull with
a
gradual increase
is
normal.
If
immediate strong pull
is
felt
or air
noise
is heard, valve
is
defective
and
should
be
replaced.
• Open
and
close throttle rapidly.
Air
noise should
be
evident
and
then gradually decrease. Check
for
proper valve usage.
If
strong pull
is not
felt
im-.
mediately
or air
noise
is not
present, valve
is not
functioning properly and should be replaced.
•
A
noisy valve should be replaced.
Replacement
• Disconnect
the
signal line,
air
inlet
and air
outlet
hoses then remove
the
valve.
• Install
new
valve
and
connect
air
outlet,
air
inlet
and signal line hoses.
CAUTION: Mixture control valves, though
similar
in
appearance
are
designed
to
meet
particular requirements
of
various engines,
therefore,
be
sure
to
install
the
correct valve.
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

ENGINE-ELECTRICAL
6Y-4
CLEANING
The external condition of the Battery should be checked
periodically for damage or for the presence of dirt and
corrosion. The top of the Battery should be kept clean.
An accumulation of acid film and dirt may permit current
to flow between the terminals, which will slowly dis-
charge the Battery. For best results when cleaning the
top of Batteries, wash first with a diluted ammonia or a
soda solution to neutralize any acid present; then flush
with clean water. Care must be taken to keep vent plugs
tight, so that the neutralizing solution does not enter the
cells.
CABLES
To insure good electrical contact, the cables should be
clean and tight on the Energizer posts. If the posts or
cable terminals are corroded, the cables should be dis-
connected and the terminals and clamps cleaned sepa-
rately with a soda solution and a wire brush. After
cleaning and installing clamps, apply a thin coating of
petroleum jelly on the cable clamps to retard corrosion.
CARRIER
AND
HOLD-DOWN
The Battery carrier and hold-down should be clean and
free from corrosion before installing the Battery. The
carrier should be in a sound mechanical condition so that
it will support the Battery securely and keep it level.
To prevent the Battery from shaking in its carrier,
the hold-down bolts should be tight (60-80 in. lbs.). How-
ever, the bolts should not be tightened to the point where
the Battery case or cover will be placed under a severe
strain.
BATTERY SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
When Batteries are being charged, an explosive gas
mixture forms in each cell. Part of this gas escapes
through the holes in the vent plugs and may form an
explosive atmosphere around the Battery itself if ventila-
tion is poor. This explosive gas may remain in or around
the Battery for several hours after it has been charged.
Sparks or flames can ignite this gas causing an internal
explosion which may shatter the Battery.
The following precautions should be observed to pre-
vent an explosion:
1.
Do not smoke near Batteries being charged or which
have been very recently charged.
2.
Do not break live circuits at the terminals- of Batr
teries because a spark usually occurs at the point
where a live circuit is broken. Care must always be
taken when connecting or disconnecting booster leads
or cable clamps on fast chargers. Poor connections
are a common cause of electrical arcs which cause
BATTERY CHARGING PROCEDURES
There are three methods of recharging Batteries.
They differ basically in the length of time the Battery is
charged and the rate at which charging current is sup-
plied. One is the Slow Charge method, the second is the
Fast Charge method, and the third is the Emergency
Boost Charge method.
Before recharging a Battery by any method, the elec-
trolyte level must be checked and adjusted if necessary.
SLOW CHARGING
The Slow Charge method supplies the Battery with a
relatively low current flow for a relatively long period of
time. This is the only method that will bring the Battery
to a full state of charge.
The Slow Charge method consists of charging at
approximately a 4 ampere rate for 24 hours or more if
necessary to bring the Battery to full charge. A fully
charged condition is reached when the cells are gassing
freely and three corrected specific gravity readings
taken at hourly intervals show no increase.
FAST CHARGING
The Fast Charge method supplies current to the Bat-
tery at a 40 to 50 ampere rate for a 1 1/2 hour period of
time. If the electrolyte temperature reaches 125°F before
the 1 1/2 hour period is completed, the Battery must be
taken off charge temporarily, or the charging rate
reduced to avoid damage to the Battery.
Although a Battery cannot be brought to a fully charged
condition during Fast Charge, it can be substantially
recharged or "boosted". In order to bring the Battery to
a fully charged condition, the charging cycle must be
finished by the Slow Charge method.
EMERGENCY BOOST CHARGING
In cases where the Battery is not sufficiently charged
to crank the engine, an emergency boost charge may be
applied as a temporary expedient in order to crank the
engine. The Emergency Boost Charge method consists of
charging at a 40 to 50 ampere rate for a period of one-
half hour.
It should be particularly noted that the Emergency
Boost Charge will not necessarily restore the Battery to
a useful state of. charge for continued service. After an
emergency boost charge, failure to charge the Battery
further, either by a long uninterrupted driving period or
by the Fast Charge or Slow Charge method, may result
in failure to crank the engine the next time cranking is
attempted. A Battery should never be condemned on the
basis of failure to crank the engine after an emergency
boost charge. Although an emergency boost charge may
put enough energy into the Battery to crank the engine
once, further charging usually is necessary in order to
create a sufficient reserve to crank a second and third
time.
12
VOLT BATTERY SUGGESTED
CHARGING RATES
(100 Amp/hr or Less Capacity)
TYPE OF
CHARGE
Boost Charge for
Light Load Test
Slow Charge
Fast Charge
Quick Boost .
Dry Charge
Warm-up Boost
LENGTH
OF TIME
20 Minutes
24 Hours
1-1/2 Hours
30 Minutes
10 Minutes
CHARGING
RATE
50 Amps
4 Amps
40-50 Amps
40-50 Amps
15 Amps
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

ENGINE-ELECTRICAL 6Y-27
timing mark on pulley lines up with timing tab.
2.
Position distributor to opening in block in normal
installed attitude (fig. 15i), noting position of vacuum
control unit.
3.
Position rotor to point toward front of engine (with
distributor housing held in installed attitude), then
turn rotor counter-clockwise approximately 1/8 turn
more toward left cylinder bank and push distributor
down to engine camshaft. It may be necessary to ro-
tate rotor slightly until camshaft engagement is felt.
4.
While pressing firmly down on distributor housing,
kick starter over a few times to make sure oil pump
shaft is engaged. Install hold-down clamp and bolt
and snug up bolt.
5. Turn distributor body slightly until points just open
and tighten distributor clamp bolt.
6. Place distributor cap in position and check to see
that rotor lines up with terminal for No. 1 spark
plug.
7. Install cap, check all high tension wire connections
and connect spark plug wires if they have been re-
moved. It is important that the wires be installed in
their location in the supports.
NOTE:
The brackets are numbered to show the
correct installation. Wires must be installed as
indicated to prevent cross firing.
8. Connect vacuum line to distributor and distributor
primary wire to coil terminal.
9. Start engine and set timing as described under Turn-
Up in Section 6.
BREAKERLESS (MAGNETIC PULSE)
DISTRIBUTOR
REMOVAL (CORVETTE)
1.
If vehicle is equipped with radio, remove three bolts
securing ignition shield over distributor and coil.
One bolt is accessible from the top of shield, the
other two are at rear of shield, facing firewall.
2.
Disconnect tachometer drive cables from distributor
housing.
3.
Disconnect pickup coil leads at connector.
4.
Remove distributor cap.
5. Crank engine so rotor is in position to fire No. 1
cylinder and timing mark on harmonic balancer is
indexed with pointer.
6. Remove vacuum line from distributor.
7. Remove distributor clamping screw and hold-down
clamp.
8. Remove distributor and distributor-to-block gasket.
It will be noted that the rotor will rotate as the
distributor is pulled out of the block. Mark the re-
lationship of the rotor and the distributor housing
after removal so that the rotor can be set in the
same position when the distributor is being installed.
DISASSEMBLY (Fig. 16i)
NOTE:
If a distributor is being disassembled
for replacement of the stationary magnetic
pickup assembly only, it will be necessary to
perform only Steps 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, and 12 of the
service procedure listed below.
1.
Remove screws securing rotor and remove rotor.
2.
Remove centrifugal weight springs and weights.
3.
Remove the tachometer drive gear from the distribu-
tor (Corvette only).
4.
Remove roll pin, then remove distributor drive gear
and washer.
CAUTION: To prevent
magnet, support drive gear
;e to the permanent
?n
driving out roll
pin.
5. Remove drive shaft assembly.
6. Remove centrifugal weight support and timer core
from drive shaft.
7. Remove connector from pickup coil leads.
8. Remove retaining ring which secures magnetic
core support plate to distributor shaft bushing in
housing.
9. As a unit, remove the entire magnetic pickup assem-
bly from the distributor housing.
10.
Remove brass washer and felt pad.
11.
Remove vacuum advance unit.
12.
To reassemble distributor, perform the above steps
in reverse order.
INSTALLATION (CORVETTE)
1.
Check to see that the engine is at firing position for
No.
1 cylinder (timing mark on harmonic balancer
indexed with pointer).
2.
Position a new distributor-to-block gasket on the
block.
3.
Before installing distributor, index rotor with hous-
ing as noted when distributor was removed. Install
distributor in block so that vacuum diaphragm faces
approximately 45° forward on the right side of the
engine and the rotor points toward contact in cap for
No.
1 cylinder.
4.
Replace distributor clamp leaving screw loose
enough to allow distributor to be turned for timing
adjustment.
5. Install spark plug wires in distributor cap. Place
wire for No. 1 cylinder in tower (marked on old cap
during disassembly) then install remaining wires
clockwise around the cap according to the firing
order (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2).
6. Attach distributor to coil primary wires.
7. Replace distributor cap.
8. Adjust timing and then fully tighten distributor clamp
screw.
9. Attach vacuum line to distributor.
10.
Connect tachometer drive cables to distributor body.
11.
Replace ignition shields.
DISTRIBUTOR OFF-ENGINE TEST
The distributor's centrifugal and vacuum advance can
be checked in a distributor testing machine or synchro-
scope specially adapted or designed to accommodate this
type distributor. However, since this involves removing
the distributor from the engine, this test may be post-
poned until other system checks have been made. A dwell
reading cannot be obtained on this distributor and it is not
likely that the centrifugal or vacuum advance will be a
cause of trouble.
COIL REPLACEMENT
1.
Disconnect ignition switch and distributor leads from
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

CLUTCH
AND
TRANSMISSIONS
7-23
Assembly (Fig.
4X)
1.
With detent spring tang projecting
up
over
the 3rd
and
4th
shifter shaft cover opening install
the
first
and second detent
cam
onto
the
detent
cam
pivot
pin.
With
the
detent spring tang projecting
up
over
the
first
and
second shifter shaft cover hole install
the
3rd
and 4th
detent
cam,
NOTE:
The 1-2
detent
cam has a
.090" greater
contour
on the
inside detent notch.
2.
3.
Install detent
cam
retaining
"C"
ring
to
pivot shaft,
and hook spring into detent
cam
notches.
Install
1-2 and 3-4
shifter shaft assemblies
in
cover
being careful
not to
damage seals. Install both shift
forks
to
shifter shaft assemblies, lifting
up on
detent
cam
to
allow forks
to
fully seat into position.
4.
Install reverse detent ball
and
spring
to
cover, then
install reverse shifter shaft assembly
to
cover.
5.
Install outer shifter levers, flat washers, lock wash-
ers
and
bolts.
Installation
1.
Shift shifter levers into neutral detent (center) posi-
tion. Position cover gasket
on
case.
2.
Carefully position side cover into place making sure
the shift forks
are
aligned with their respective
mainshaft clutch sliding sleeves.
Install cover attaching bolts
and
tighten evenly
to
specified torque.
Remove filler plug
and add
lubricant specified
in
Section
0, to
level
of
filler plug hole.
3.
4.
ALUMINUM POWERGLIDE
INDEX
Page
General
Description
7-23
Maintenance
and
Adjustments .............. 7—23
Oil
Level Check
7-23
Periodic
Oil
Change
7-24
Periodic
Low
Band Adjustment
7-24
Manual
Shift Linkage Check
and
Adjust
7-24
Floor
Shift Linkage
7-25
Floor
Mounted Control Lever
and
Bracket
Assembly
7-29
Throttle
Valve Linkage
.... 7-29
Neutral
Safety Switch
.. . 7-30
Throttle
Return Check Valve (Dashpot)
7-30
Component
Parts Replacement
7-30
Transmission
Replacement .............. 7—30
Page
Other
Service Operations
7-32
Diagnosis
7-32
Warming
Up
Transmission
7-32
Shop
Warm
Up , 7-32
Road
Warm
Up 7-32
Checking
Fluid Level
and
Condition
7-32
Manual
Linkage
7-32
Oil
Leaks
7-33
Basic
Pressure Checks
7-33
Wide
Open Throttle Upshift Pressure Check
.... 7-33
Idle
Pressure
in
Drive Range
7-33
Manual
"Low"
Range Pressure Check .......
7-33
Drive
Range Overrun (Coast) Pressure
.
.......
7-33
Powerglide
Shift Points
. . 7-35
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
The case
and
converter housing
of the two
speed alumi-
num Powerglide Transmission
is a
single case aluminum
unit. When
the
manual control
is
placed
in the
drive
po-
sition,
the
transmission automatically shifts
to low
gear
for initial vehicle movement.
As the car
gains speed
and
depending
on
load
and
throttle position,
an
automatic shift
is made
to
high gear.
A
forced downshift feature
pro-
vides
a
passing gear
by
returning
the
transmission
to low
range.
The
oil
pump assembly
is a
conventional gear type
and
the
oil
pump housing
is of the
large diameter type acting
as
the
front bulkhead
of the
transmission.
The
torque
converter
is a
conventional three element welded design
bolted
to the
engine flywheel which drives through
a
two-
speed planetary gearset.
The
high clutch assembly
is
typical
of the
designs used
in
this type transmission.
The
aluminum Powerglide uses
an
output shaft mounted
gov-
ernor which requires
a
hole through
the
output shaft.
The
reverse clutch assembly
is a
multiple disc type clutch.
The steel plates
are
splined directly
to the
case while
the
face plates
are
splined
to the
internal
or
ring gear.
The
clutch piston operates within
the
rear portion
of the
case.
The internal diameter
of the
pistoh
is
sealed to
an
integral
hub portion
of the
case rear bulkhead.
The
outside
dia-
meter
is
sealed
to a
machined portion
of the
case.
The
piston
is
hydraulically applied
and is
released
by
separate
coil springs.
The
valve body assembly
is
bolted
to the
bottom
of the
transmission case
and is
accessible
for
service
by
removing
the oil pan
assembly.
The
valve
body consists
of an
upper
and
lower body located
on
either
side
of a
transfer plate.
The
vacuum modulator
is lo-
cated
on the
left rear face
of the
transmission case.
The
modulator valve bore
is
located
in the
upper valve body.
MAINTENANCE
AND
ADJUSTMENTS
OIL LEVEL CHECK
The transmission
oil
level should
be
checked period-
ically
as
recommended
in
Section
0. Oil
should
be
added
only when level
is on or
below
the
"ADD" mark
on the dip
stick with
oil hot or at
operating temperature.
The oil
level
dip
stick
is
located
at the
right rear
of the
engine
compartment. Fill with
oil
specified
in
Section
0.
In order
to
check
oil
level accurately,
the
engine should
be idled with
the
transmission
oil hot and the
control
lever
in
neutral (N) position.
It
is
important that
the oil
level
be
maintained
no
higher than
the
"FULL" mark
on the
transmission
oil
level gauge.
DO NOT
OVERFILL,
for
when
the oil
level
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL