1967 CHEVROLET CAMARO fuse

battery location reset sun roof interior lights change wheel check transmission fluid headlight aiming

Page 96 of 659

CHEVROLET CAMARO 1967 1.G Chassis Workshop Manual
HEATER AND AIR CONDITIONING 1A-73

Fig.
105—Comfortron Control Head

10.
Introduce R-12 vapor at cylinder (room) temperature

and pressure.

11.
Leak test all fittings and connections and give p

HEATER AND AIR CONDITIONING 1A-73

Fig.
105—Comfortron Control Head

10.
Introduce R-12 vapor at cylinder (room) temperature

and pressure.

11.
Leak test all fittings and connections and give partic-

ular attention to a leak test at the compressor shaft

seal if compressor has not been leak tested on the

bench.

12.
Complete system processing and charge system.

FUSES

A fuse, located in the junction block protects the entire

air conditioning system except for the blower when op-

erating at high speed.

A second fuse, to protect the high speed blower circuit,

is located in the electrical wiring between the horn relay

and the Air Conditioner relay (except Universal). The
Universal unit has a fuse in the line between the ignition

switch and the Air Conditioner blower switch. See the

specification page for the proper replacement fuse.

FOUR SEASON HEATER COMPONENTS

Corvette

The heater components of the system are, in general,

much the same as those of the standard Corvette heater.

Heater hoses carry the engine coolant to the heater core,

located in the air distributor duct beneath the instrument

panel.

A significant difference is that in the Corvette Air

Conditioning System there is no flow through the heater

core until the COOL IN-HOT PULL knob is pulled out.

This movement opens the vacuum switch on the air

distributor assembly and allows vacuum to be applied

to the water valve mounted in the engine compartment,

opening the valve. Thus the heater core is unheated

until needed, at which time it receives full flow of the

engine coolant. Air passing through the core receives

maximum heat which is tempered by mixing with un-

heated air before entering the passenger compartment.

Heater Core

Replacement

The heater core in the Corvette Air Conditioning

System is removed in the same manner as the core in

the Corvette heater. The distributor assembly must first

be removed from under the dash as covered previously

in this section before the core can be removed and

replaced.

Water Valve

Installation of the water valve is illustrated in Figure

113.
An inoperative valve must be replaced.

Chevrolet

Heater Core

Removal

1.
Disconnect battery ground cable.

2.
Drain radiator

3.
Remove right front fender and skirt assembly.

Fig.
106—Comfortron Temperature Dial Adjustment
Fig.
107—Amplifier Removal

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

Page 103 of 659

CHEVROLET CAMARO 1967 1.G Chassis Workshop Manual
HEATER
AND AIR
CONDITIONING
1A-80

EVAPORATOR ASM.

Blower

Motor
INSIDE VALVE

(Normally closed

-spring held)

PLENUM VALVE

(Normally open

-spring held)
Actuator

(Vacuum

operated)

Inside

Page 104 of 659

$CHEVROLET CAMARO 1967 1.G Chassis Workshop Manual HEATER AND AIR CONDITIONING 1A-81 HORN RELAY r CONN.- 14 BROWN (TO FUSE PANEL) BATTERY 1 —I ^ COMPR ESSOR DASH y V-^ PANEL \ GROMMET—% 1 \ _ J~ ") "^ >14 BLACK/RED STRIPE- FUSE .$

Page 105 of 659

CHEVROLET CAMARO 1967 1.G Chassis Workshop Manual
HEATER AND AIR CONDITIONING 1A-82

•BATTERY

(POS)
CABLE
NOTE
When
control
switch*

is !TOFF"
&
Air
Cond
is
"ON"

(Control
knob
pulled
but) the

blower
fanwill
run at low
speed.
C

Page 219 of 659

CHEVROLET CAMARO 1967 1.G Chassis Workshop Manual
REAR SUSPENSION AND DRIVE LINE 4-29

REAR AXLE NOISE DIAGNOSIS

Mechanical failures of the rear axle are relatively

simple to locate and correct. Noise in a rear axle is a

little more difficult to

REAR SUSPENSION AND DRIVE LINE 4-29

REAR AXLE NOISE DIAGNOSIS

Mechanical failures of the rear axle are relatively

simple to locate and correct. Noise in a rear axle is a

little more difficult to diagnose and repair. One of the

most essential parts of rear axle service is proper

diagnosis.

Ail rear axles are noisy to a certain degree. The

action of transmitting the high engine torque through a

90° turn reducing propeller shaft speed produces noise

in rear axles. This point establishes the need for a line

between normal and abnormal or unacceptable axle

noises.

Slight axle noise heard only at a certain speed or under

remote conditions must be considered normal. Axle noise

tends to "peak" at varying speeds and the noise is in no

way indicative of trouble in the axle.

If noise is present in an objectionable form, loud or at

all speeds, an effort should be made to isolate the noise

as being in one particular unit of the vehicle. Axle noise

is often confused with other noises such as tire noise,

transmission noise, propeller shaft vibration and uni-

versal joint noise. Isolation of the noise as in any one

unit requires skill and experience. An attempt to elimini-

ate a slight noise may baffle even the best of diagnos-

ticians. Such practices as raising tire pressure to

eliminate tire noise, listening for the noise at varying

speeds and on drive, float and coast, and under proper

highway conditions, turning the steering wheel from left

to right to detect wheel bearing noise, will aid even the

beginner in detecting alleged axle noises. Axle noises

fall into two categories: gear noise and bearing noise.

GEAR NOISE

Abnormal gear noise can be recognized since it pro-

duces a cycling pitch and will be very pronounced in the

speed range at which it occurs, appearing under either

"drive," "float" or "coast" conditions. Gear noise

tends to peak in a narrow speed range or ranges, while

bearing noise will tend to remain constant in pitch. Ab-

normal gear noise is rare and usually originates from

the scoring of the ring gear and pinion teeth as a result

of insufficient or improper lubrication in new assemblies.

Side gears seldom give trouble as they are used only

when the rear wheels travel at different speeds.

BEARING NOISE

Defective bearings will always produce a whine that is

constant in pitch and varies with vehicle speed. This fact

will allow you to distinguish between bearing noise and

gear noise.

1.
Pinion bearing noise resulting from a bearing failure

can be identified by a constant rough sound. Pinion

bearings are rotating at a higher speed than differen-

tial side bearings or axle shaft bearings. This

particular noise can be picked up best by testing the

car on a smooth road (black top). However, care

should be taken not to confuse tire noise with bear-

ing or gear noise. If any doubt exists, tire treads

should be examined for irregularities that would

produce such noise.

2.
Wheel bearing noise may be confused with rear axle

noise. To differentiate between wheel bearings and

rear axle, drive the vehicle on a smooth road at

medium-low speed. With traffic permitting, turn
Fig.
74—Scored Hypoid Ring Gear

the vehicle sharply right and left. If noise is caused

by wheel bearings, it will increase in the turns be-

cause of the side loading. If noise cannot be isolated

to front or rear wheel bearings, inspection will be

necessary.

3.
Side bearings will produce a constant rough noise of

a slower nature than pinion bearings. Side bearing

noise will not fluctuate in the above wheel bearing

test.

Failure Analysis

The most common types of rear axle failures are

hypoid gear tooth scoring and fracture, differential gear

fracture. and/or differential bearing failure, and axle

shaft bearing failure.

Fig.
75-Cracked Hypoid Ring Gear

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

Page 254 of 659

CHEVROLET CAMARO 1967 1.G Chassis Workshop Manual
BRAKES 5-21

brake fluid. Coat the primary and secondary seals

on the secondary piston with clean brake fluid. Insert

the secondary piston spring retainer into the sec-

ondary piston spring. Place

BRAKES 5-21

brake fluid. Coat the primary and secondary seals

on the secondary piston with clean brake fluid. Insert

the secondary piston spring retainer into the sec-

ondary piston spring. Place the retainer and spring

down over the end of the secondary piston until the

retainer locates inside of the lips of the primary

cup.

10.
Hold the master cylinder with the open end of the

bore down. Push the secondary piston into the bore

until the spring seats against the closed end of the

bore.

11.
Position the master cylinder in a vise with the

open end of the bore up. Coat the primary and

secondary seal on the primary piston with clean

brake fluid. Push the primary piston assembly,

spring end first, into the bore of the master cylinder*

Hold the piston down and snap the lock ring into

position in the small groove in the I.D. of the bore.

12.
Push the primary piston down to move the secondary

piston forward far enough to clear the stop screw

hole in the bottom of the front fluid reservoir. Install

the stop screw.

13.
Install reservoir diaphragm in the reservoir cover

and install the cover on the main cylinder. Push

bail wire into position to secure the reservoir cover.

Installation

1.
Assemble the push rod through the push rod retainer,

if it has been disassembled.

2.
Push the retainer over the end of the main cylinder.

Assemble new boot over push rod and press it down

over the push rod retainer. Slide new mounting

gasket into position.

3.
Secure .the main cylinder to the firewall with mount-

ing bolts.

4.
Connect the push rod clevis to the brake pedal with

pin and retainer.

5. Connect the brake lines to the main cylinder.

6. Fill the main cylinder reservoirs to the levels

shown in Figure 8. Bleed the brake system as out-

lined in this section.

7. K necessary, adjust the brake pedal free play as

outlined in this section.

WHEEL CYLINDER (Fig. 33)

The wheel cylinder boots should be removed from a

cylinder body only when they are visibly damaged or

leaking fluid. Wheel cylinders having torn, cut, or heat-

cracked boots should be completely overhauled.

Removal

1.
Raise vehicle and place on jack stands.

Fig.
33-Chevelle Wheel Cylinder—Exploded View

1.
Push Rod Boot 6. Spring

2.
Piston 7. Piston Cup

3. Piston Cup 8. Piston

4.
Housing 9. Push Rod Boot

5. Fluid Inlet
2.
Remove wheel and tire assembly. Back off brake

adjustment, if necessary, and remove drum.

3.
Disconnect brake system hydraulic line from

cylinder.

4.
Remove brake shoe pull back springs.

5. Remove screws securing wheel cylinder to flange

plate. Disengage cylinder push rods from brake

shoes and remove cylinder.

NOTE:
On Chevrolet, it is necessary to re-

move the anchor pin which holds the front wheel

cylinder to flange plate to remove the front

wheel cylinder.

Disassembly

1.
Remove boots from cylinder ends with pliers and

discard boots.

2.
Remove and discard pistons and cups.

Inspection and Cleaning

NOTE:
Staining is not to be confused with

corrosion. Corrosion can be identified as pits

or excessive bore roughness.

1.
Inspect cylinder bore. Check for staining and corro-

sion.
Discard cylinder if corroded.

2.
Polish any discolored or stained area with crocus

cloth by revolving the cylinder on the cloth sup-

ported by a finger. Do not slide tfce cloth in a

lengthwise manner under pressure.

NOTE:
Before washing parts, hands must be

clean. Do not wash hands in gasoline or oil

before cleaning parts. Use soap and water to

clean hands.

3.
Wash the cylinder and metal parts in Declene or

equivalent.

4.
Shake excess cleaning fluid from the cylinder-. Do

not use a rag to dry the cylinder as lint from the rag

cannot be kept from the cylinder bore surfaces.

5. Check piston for scratches or other visual damage;

replace if necessary.

Assembly (Fig. 33)

1.
Lubricate the cylinder bore and counterbore with

clean brake fluid and insert spring - expander

assembly.

2.
Install new cups with flat surfaces toward outer

ends of cylinder. Be sure cups are lint and dirt free

before insertion. Do not lubricate cups prior to

assembly.

3.
Install new Durex pistons into cylinder with flat

surfaces toward center of cylinder. Do not lubri-

cate pistons before installation.

4.
Press new boots into cylinder counterbores by hand.

Do not lubricate boots prior to installation.

Installation

1.
Position wheel cylinder to brake flange plate. Install

screws and tighten securely.

NOTE:
On Chevrolet front wheels, mount front

wheel cylinders to the brake flange plate by

installing the threaded anchor pin through the

wheel cylinder housing and tighten to 130 lb. ft.

To secure, peen over the flat washer on the

anchor pin.

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

Page 334 of 659

CHEVROLET CAMARO 1967 1.G Chassis Workshop Manual
ENGINE-ELECTRICAL 6Y-9

63 AMP 1

MODELS ONLY
BATTERY FUSIBLE

LINK
HORN

FUSIBLE LINK
TRANSISTOR
FUSIBLE LINK

Fig.
4c— Circuitry - Voltage Regulator Assemblies (Corvette)

Engine compartm

ENGINE-ELECTRICAL 6Y-9

63 AMP 1

MODELS ONLY'
BATTERY FUSIBLE

LINK
HORN

FUSIBLE LINK'
TRANSISTOR
FUSIBLE LINK'

Fig.
4c— Circuitry - Voltage Regulator Assemblies (Corvette)

Engine compartment wiring harness incorporates sev-

eral fusible links. Each link is identified with its gage

size. A fusible link is a length of special wire (normally

four wire gages smaller than the circuit it is protecting)

used in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such

as the ignition circuit. The same size wire with a hypalon

insulation must be used when replacing a fusible link.

The links are:

1.
The pigtail lead at the battery positive cable (except

Corvette) is a 14 gage, brown fusible link protecting

the 10 gage battery charging circuit. This wire is an

integral part of the battery cable assembly and serv-

icing requires replacing the complete battery cable

assembly. On Corvette models this link is installed

as a molded splice at the solenoid "Bat" terminal

and servicing requires splicing in a new link.

2.
A 16 gage black fusible link is located at the horn
4.
relay to protect all unfused wiring of 12 gage or

larger. It is installed as a molded splice and serv-

icing requires splicing in a new link.

The generator warning light and field circuitry (16

gage wire) is protected by a fusible link (20 gage

orange wire) used in the "battery feed to voltage

regulator #3 terminal" wire. The link is installed as

a molded splice in the generator and forward lamp

harness and is serviced by splicing in a new 20 gage

wire as required.

The ammeter circuit on all models is protected by

two orange, 20 gage wire fusible links installed as

molded splices in the circuit at the junction block or

the solenoid "Bat" terminal (Corvette only) and at

the horn relay. Each link is serviced by splicing in a

new 20 gage wire as required.

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS

At regular intervals, inspect the terminals for cor-

rosion an4 loose connections, and the wiring for frayed

insulation. Check mounting bolts for tightness. Check the

drive belt for alignment, proper tension and wear. Be-

cause of the higher inertia and load capacity of the rotor

used in A.C. generators, PROPER BELT TENSION is

more critical than on D.C. generators.

Since the Delcotron and its companion regulator are

designed for use on negative polarity systems only, the

following precautions must be observed. Failure to ob-

serve these precautions may result in serious damage to

the charging system.

1.
When installing a battery, always make absolutely

sure the ground polarity of the battery, generator and

regulator is the same.

2.
When connecting a booster battery, make certain to

connect the correct battery terminals together.

3.
When connecting a charger to the battery, connect the

correct charger leads to the battery
%
terminals.

4.
Never operate the generator on an uncontrolled open
TO SOLENOID

BAT ACC RES. WIRE

Fig.
5c—Typical Wiring Diagram Showing Lead Connections

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

Page 372 of 659

CHEVROLET CAMARO 1967 1.G Chassis Workshop Manual
CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSIONS 7-13

PULL-IN

WINDING
li
HOLD-IN

WINDING

Fig.
4B -
Overdrive Electrical Circuit Wiring Diagram

ELECTRICAL

Any one of the following general complaints may be due

to

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSIONS 7-13

PULL-IN

WINDING
li
HOLD-IN

WINDING

Fig.
4B -
Overdrive Electrical Circuit Wiring Diagram

ELECTRICAL

Any one of the following general complaints may be due

to electrical trouble in the overdrive circuit.

1.
Does not engage.

2.
Does not release.

3.
Does not kickdown from overdrive.

These troubles may be traced and remedied as de-

scribed in the following paragraphs.

1.
Does not engage

a. With the ignition switch on, ground the "KD" ter-

minal of the solenoid relay with a jumper lead.

If the solenoid clicks, the relay and solenoid cir-

cuits are in operating condition. If no click is

heard in the relay, check the fuse and replace if

defective.

b.
If the fuse is good, use a second jumper lead to

connect the "SOL" and "BAT" terminals of the

relay. If a click is now heard in the solenoid, the

relay is probably at fault and should be repaired

or replaced.

c. If the solenoid does not click in Step b, check the

wiring to the No. 4 terminal of the solenoid and

replace if necessary. If the wiring is not defec-

tive,
the trouble is probably in the solenoid. Re-

move the solenoid cover, examine the solenoid

contacts in series with the pull-in winding and

clean if necessary. Test again for clicks, as in

Step b, after replacing solenoid cover and lead

wires.
Replace the solenoid if trouble has not

been corrected.

d. If the relay and solenoid circuits are in good con-

dition as determined in Step a, leave the ignition

switch on and make sure the manual control knob

is in the overdrive position. Ground one and then

the other of the two terminals next to the stem of

the kickdown switch (identified as "SW" and
?fREL"). K the solenoid clicks when one terminal

is grounded but not the other, replace the switch.

If the solenoid does not click when either of the

terminals is grounded, check the wiring between

the relay and the kickdown switch and replace if

defective.

e. If the solenoid clicks as each terminal is grounded

in Step d, ground the governor switch terminal.

If the solenoid clicks, the governor switch may be

defective. If the solenoid does not click, check

the wiring between the kickdown and governor

switches and replace if necessary.

2.
Does not release

a. Remove the connection to the "KD" terminal of

the relay. If this release overdrive, look for a

grounded control circuit between the relay and

governor switch.

b.
If the overdrive is not released in Step a, dis-

connect the lead to the "SOL" terminal of relay.

If this releases the overdrive, replace the relay.

3.
Does not kickdown from overdrive

a. With the engine running, connect a jumper lead

between the No. 6 terminal of the solenoid and

ground. Operate the kickdown switch by hand.

This should stop the engine. If it does, the sole-

noid is probably defective and it should be checked

for dirty ground-out contacts or other defects

within the ground-out circuit of the solenoid (fig.

4B).
Clean the contacts or replace the contact

plate as required.

b.
If the engine does not stop in Step a, ground one

and then the other of the two terminals (Identified

as "IGN" and "SOL") farthest from the sfem of

the kickdown switch. The engine should stop when

one of the two terminals (IGN) is grounded. If

the engine does not stop when the terminal is

grounded, the wiring or connections to the switch

between the switch and coil are defective. When

the btlier terminal (SOL) is grounded, the engine

should stop when the kickdown switch is operated.

If the engine does not stop when the kickdown

switch is operated with the second terminal

grounded, the kickdown switch is defective. If

the trouble is in the kickdown switch, adjust the

linkage to give more travel of the switch rod.

If this does not correct the trouble, replace the

kickdown switch.

If the kickdown switch operates as it should,

check for an open circuit in the wiring between

the kickdown switch and the No. 6 terminal of the

solenoid.

c. If the trouble is not located by the above checks,

the upper contacts of the kickdown switch may not

be opening. To check for this condition, ground

the overdrive control circuit at the governor

switch. This should cause the solenoid to click.

Operate the kickdown switch by hand. This should

cause a second click as the solenoid releases.

If there is no second click, adjust the linkage to

give more travel of the switch rod. If this does

not correct the trouble, replace the kickdown

switch.

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

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