1967 CHEVROLET CAMARO light

STEERING 9-6

Fig.
11
—Corvette Telescoping Wheel Option

5.

7.
NOTE:
If steering wheel only is to be replaced,

perform Step 5 below only. If directional signal

cancelling cam is to be replaced, omit Step 5

and proceed with Steps 6 and 7.

Remove six screws securing steering wheel to hub

and remove wheel.

Remove nut and washer from shaft and using steering

wheel puller Tool J-2927, remove steering wheel and

hub from vehicle.

Slide cancelling cam and spring off shaft.

Installation

NOTE:
Refer to torque specifications at rear of

manual for correct torque values.

1.
If necessary, slide cancelling cam and spring on end

of shaft.

2.
If hub was removed from steering wheel, attach hub

to steering wheel with screws removed during dis-

assembly.

3.
Place steering wheel and hub assembly in position

and secure to column with washer and nut.

4.
Position spacer on steering wheel.
5. Position lock knob on steering wheel.

6. Install lock screw through lock knob, turn into shaft,

and adjust to lock position.

7. Attach spacer to wheel with three screws.

8. Place lock knob in lock position and attach to lock

screw with two screws.

9. Remove three screws holding spacer. Attach horn

contact to spacer and steering wheel with three

screws.

10.
Install horn button cap.

11.
Connect steering column harness at chassis plug.

STEERING COUPLING (Fig. 12)

Removal

NOTE:
Chevy n models are equipped with a

clamp arrangement rather than the conventional

"rag joint" steering coupling. Refer to Steering

Gear - Chevy II, for service procedures.

1.
Remove nuts and washers securing steering coupling

to flanged end of steering column (fig. 12).

2.
Remove coupling clamp bolt (fig. 12) and slightly

spread coupling clamp.

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING 9-20

Fig.
40-Removing Pivot Pins Using Pivot Pin Removal Tool J-21854

13.
Pull up on tilt release lever to disengage lock shoes.

Remove bearing housing and hang with signal switch,

if present, until further disassembly. If signal switch

and wires were removed earlier, bearing housing

may be completely removed. Remove tilt release

lever.

14.
Remove steering shaft flange bolt and flange from

lower end of shaft.

15.
Remove retaining ring, washers, sleeve and plunger

assembly and spring from lower end of shaft.

16.
Slide steering shaft out of top end of jacket.

17.
If necessary to disassemble steering shaft, proceed

as follows:

a. Slide bearing and race off top of shaft.

b.
Turn upper shaft slightly from center line of

lower shaft.

c. Using a narrow blade screwdriver, work pre-

load spring out of upper shaft and remove spring

(fig. 41).

d. Turn upper shaft 90° from center line of lower

shaft and remove shaft.
e. Rotate centering spheres and remove spheres and

wave washer from lower shaft.

18.
Remove screws securing the support assembly to the

lockpjate and mast jacket and remove support.

19.
Remove shift tube retaining ring with a screwdriver.

Remove thrust washer (fig. 42).

20.
Remove lower bearing adapter from bottom of shift

tube by depressing plastic fingers, one at a time, and

pulling adapter out.

21.
Remove nuts securing back-up lamp, neutral start

switch to column, if so equipped, and remove switch.

Retain these mounting nuts.

22.
Remove shift tube assembly from bowl using shift

tube remover Tool J- 22551 (fig. 43). Insert the

hooked end of the tool into the notch of the shift tube

below the bowl key. Pilot sleeve into upper end of

shift tube. Force shift tube out of bowl by turning

SHIFT TUB

RETAINING RING

Fig.
41—Removing'Preload Spring from Centering Spheres
Fig. 42—Shift Tube Retaining Ring and Lower Bushing

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING
9-33

POWER STEERING

INDEX

Page

General Description
. 9-33

Maintenance
and
Adjustments
9-33

Bleeding Hydraulic System
9-33

Fluid Level
. 9-33

Adjustments
. 9-34

Power Steering Gear
. . 9-34

Pump Belt Tension
9-34
Hydraulic System Checks
9-34

Component Replacement
and
Repairs
. 9-35

Power Steering Pump.
. 9-35

Power Steering Gear
9-36

Control Valve
and
Adapter Assembly
9.35

Power Cylinder
9.37

Power Steering Hoses
9.39

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

Two types
of
power steering
are
used
for 1967.
One
is

the conventional linkage type
for
Chevy
n and
Corvette

vehicles
and the
other
is the
integral gear type
for

Chevrolet, Chevelle,
and
Camaro.
For
both types
the

hydraulic pressure
is
provided
by an
engine-driven vane-

type pump.

On
the
Chevy
n and
Corvette linkage type power steer-

ing, hydraulic pressure
is
delivered through
a
hose from

the pump
to a
valve which senses
the
requirement
for

power assistance
and
supplies
the
power cylinder
ac-

cordingly.
The
steering gear used with this power steer-

ing
is the
same basic unit used
on
manually steered

vehicles;
it is
serviced
as
outlined
in the
manual steering

part
of
this section except
for
adjustment, which
is

covered
in the
following pages.
The
steering linkage also

is serviced the same
as
manual counterparts.

The Chevrolet, Chevelle
and
Camaro integral gear type

power steering
has the
hydraulic pressure delivered

from
the
pump through two hoses
to the
steering gear.
In
the power steering gear
the
steering shaft, hydraulic

valve, worm, and rack-piston
nut are all in
line making
a

compact
and
space saving assembly.
All oil
passages
are

internal within
the
gear except
the
pressure
and
return

hoses.

The steering gear
is a
recirculating ball system
in

which steel balls
act as a
rolling thread between
the

steering worm
and
rack-piston
nut. The
rack-piston
nut

is
all one
piece
and is
geared
to the
sector
of
the piston

shaft.
The
valve
is
contained
in the
gear housing elimi-

nating
the
need
of
bolts
or
seals
to
attach
a
separate

valve housing.

The valve
is an
open-center, rotary-type three
way

valve.
The
spool
is
held
in
neutral position by means
of a

torsion
bar. The
spool
is
attached
by
means
of
the stub

shaft
to one end of the
torsion
bar
and
to the
valve body

on
the
other
end.
Twisting
of the
torsion bar allows
the

spool
to
move
in
relation
to the
valve body thereby oper-

ating
the
valve.

MAINTENANCE
AND
ADJUSTMENTS

BLEEDING HYDRAULIC SYSTEM

1.
Fill
oil
reservoir
to
proper level and
let oil
remain

undistrubed
for at
least two minutes.

2.
Start engine
and run
only
for
about
two
seconds.

3.
Add
oil if
necessary.

4.
Repeat above procedure until
oil
level remains
con-

stant after running engine.

5. Raise front
end of
vehicle
so
that wheels
are off
the

ground.

6. Increase engine speed
to
approximately
1500 rpm.

7. Turn
the
wheels
(off
ground) right
and
left, lightly

contacting
the
wheel stops.

8. Add
oil if
necessary.

9. Lower
the car and
turn wheels right and left
on the

ground.

10.
Check
oil
level and refill
as
required.

11.
If oil is
extremely foamy, allow vehicle
to
stand
a

few minutes with engine
off and
repeat above

procedure.
,

a.
Check belt tightness
and
check
for a
bent
or
loose

pulley. (Pulley should
not
wobble with engine

running.)
b.
Check
to
make sure hoses
are not
touching
any

other parts
of the car,
particularly sheet metal.

c. Check
oil
level, filling
to
proper level
if
neces-

sary, following operations
1
through
10.
This

step
and
Step
"D" are
extremely important
as

low
oil
level and/or
air in the oil are the
most

frequent causes
of
objectionable pump noise.

d. Check
the
presence
of air in the oil. If air is

present, attempt
to
bleed system
as
described
in

operations
1
through
10. If it
becomes obvious

that
the
pump will
not
bleed after
a few
trials,

proceed
as
outlined under Hydraulic System

Checks.

FLUID
LEVEL

1.
Check
oil
level
in the
reservoir
by
checking
the dip

stick when
oil is at
operating temperature.
On

Chevelle models equipped with remote reservoir,

the reservoir should
be
maintained approximately

3/4 full when
oil is at
operating temperature.

2.
Fill,
if
necessary,
to
proper level with
GM
Power

Steering Fluid
or, if
this
is not
available, automatic

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

WHEELS AND TIRES 10-2

either case, tires will revolve with a side motion and

scrape the tread rubber off. If misalignment is severe,

the rubber will be scraped off of both tires (or all four

tires if front toe is not correct); if slight, only one will

be affected.

The scraping action against the face of the tire causes

a small feather edge of rubber to appear on
one .side
of

the tread and this feather edge is certain indication of

misalignment (fig. 1). The remedy is. readjusting toe-in

within specifications, or rechecking the entire front end

alignment if necessary.

Heei and Toe

This is a saw-toothed effect where one end of each

tread block is worn more than the other.

The end that wears is the one that first grips the road

when the brakes are applied.

Heel and toe wear is less noticeable onsrear tires than

on front tires, because the propelling action of the rear

wheels creates a force which tends to wear the opposite

end of the tread blocks. The two forces, propelling and

braking, make for more even wear of the rear tires,
whereas only the braking forces act on the front wheels,

and the saw-tooth effect is more noticeable.

A' certain amount of heel and toe wear is normal.

Excessive wear is usually due to high speed driving and

excessive use of brakes. The best remedy, in addition

UNDERINFLATION WEAR

Fig.
1 - Toe In or Toe Out Misalignment Wear
Fig.
2 - Over and Under Inflation Wear

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

WHEELS AND TIRES 10-3

Fig.
3 - Spof Wear

to cautioning the owner of his driving habits, is to inter-

change tires regularly.

Side

This may be caused by incorrect wheel camber, under-

inflation, high cambered roads or taking corners at too

high a rate of speed.

The first two causes are the most common. Camber

wear can be readily identified because it occurs only on

one side of the treads, whereas underinflation causes

wear on both sides (fig. 2).

There is, of course, no correction for high cambered

roads.
Cornering wear is discussed further on.

Center

This is caused primarily by overinflation pf the tire

(fig. 2). Invisible fabric damage can also be caused by

overinflation.

Uneven

Uneven or spotty wear (fig. 3) is due to such irregu-

larities as unequal caster or camber, bent front or rear

suspension parts, out-of-balance wheels, brake drums
Fig.
4 - Cornering Wear

out-of-round, brakes out-of-adjustment, or other me-

chanical conditions. The remedy in each case consists

of locating the mechanical defect and correcting it.

Cornering

Since the introduction of independent spring front and

rear wheels, improvements in spring suspension have

enabled drivers to negotiate curves at higher rates of

speed with the same feeling of security that they had

with the older cars at lower speeds. Consequently,

curves are being taken at higher speeds with the result

that a type of tire wear called "Cornering Wear" (fig. 4),

frequently appears.

When a car makes an extremely fast turn, the weight

is shifted from a normal loading on all four wheels to an

abnormal load on the tires on the outside of the curve

and a very light load on the inside tires due to centrifugal

force. This unequal loading may have two unfavorable

results.

First, the rear tire on the inside of the curve may be

relieved of so much load that it is no longer geared to

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

WHEELS AND TIRES 10-5

WHEELS

The wheel and tire assembly should be removed from

vehicles equipped with disc brakes to properly perform

balancing operations. This is necessary due to drag of

the spring loaded brake shoes on the disc.

Static Balancing (W/Tire)

Static Balance (still balance) is the equal distribution

of weight of the wheel and tire assembly about the axis

of rotation so that the assembly has no tendency to rotate

by
itself.
Static unbalance causes the pounding action of

the front wheels that is called "tramp".

To correct static unbalance (front and rear): The

quickest and best methods to correct static unbalance

are through the use of wheel balancers which are com-

mercially available. Refer to the Information and in-

structions included with these balaricers.

Dynamic Balancing (W/Tire)

Dynamic Balance (running balance) requires the wheel

to be not only in static balance, but balanced and running

smoothly while turning on an axis which runs through the

centerline of the wheel and tire perpendicular to the axis

of rotation.

The quickest and best methods of testing and correcting

dynamic unbalance are by the use of dynamic wheel

balancers which are commercially available. These bal-

ancers include all necessary information on where and

how the balancing weights should be placed. The follow-

ing information, however, will help in the correction of

dynamic balance.

NOTE:
Before attempting to balance the

wheels, check to be certain that no foreign

matter has been trapped in the wheel ventila-

tion slots or in the accessory wheel discs. This

is especially important if the vehicle has been
run in soft mud and then parked in freezing

weather.

When a wheel that is statically unbalanced is dynam-

ically in balance the dynamic balance can be retained

while correcting "the static balance by installing the cor-

rective weights so that half of the weight required is

placed on the inner edge of the rim and the other half

on the outer edge of the rim.

Dynamic unbalance can be corrected without destroying

static balance by installing weights so half of weight

required for dynamic balance is placed on the rim op-

posite the heavy point, while the other half is placed 180°

away and on the opposite side of the rim.

NOTE:
Vehicles with wire wheel covers should

have the wheels balanced with the wire wheel

covers installed on the wheels.

Run Out (W/OTire)

The wheels should not run out (wobble) more than

1/16" as measured on the side of the rim at the base

of the tire. Excessive run-out is the result of a bent

wheel, an improperly mounted wheel, worn knuckle bear-

ings or steering connections. These parts should be

checked for correct adjustment, proper alignment and

wear whenever excessive run-out is encountered.

The wheels should also run concentric with the steering

knuckle spindle within 1/16 inch as measured on the tire

bead seat of the rim with the tire removed.

Wheel run-out, eccentricity and balance are closely

associated with steering and front wheel alignment.

Further information on these subjects will be found under

"Suspension".

Cleaning Aluminum Wheels

Do not use wire brush or abrasive cleaners when

cleaning wheels. Use only cleaners that will not react

with aluminum.

SERVICE OPERATIONS

TIRES

Removal

Dismounting tubeless tires presents no problems if the

correct procedures are used and the following precau-

tions observed.

1.
Remove the valve cap and valve core. Let out all the

air.

2.
Press the inner side of the tire into the rim well.

Use bead loosening tool or if regular tire irons are

used, take particular care not to injure or tear the

sealing ribs on the bead.

CAUTION: Never use tire irons with sharp

edges or corners.

3.
Using tire irons on the opposite side, remove bead,

taking small "bites" around the rim.

4.
Turn the tire over, and use two tire irons, one be-

tween the rim flange and the bead to pry the rim

upward, the other iron to pry outward between the

bead seat and the bead.
Installation

Extreme care must be exercised to prevent injury to

the sealing bead and circumferential bead when forcing

tire over rim.

1.
Apply a light film of Ruglyde or other suitable rubber

lubricant to sealing bead of tire.

NOTE:
The use of excessive lubrication may

lead to rim slippage and subsequent breaking of

air seal.

2.
Carefully mount the outer bead in usual manner by

using tire irons, taking small "bites" around rim,

being careful not to injure the tire bead.

CAUTION: DO NOT use a hammer, as damage

to the bead will result.

3.
Install the inner bead in the same manner.

NOTE:
If a seal cannot be effected in the fore-

going manner with the rush of air it can be

, accomplished by applying to the circumference

of the tire a tire mounting band or heavy sash

cord and tightening with the use of a tire iron.

On tire mounting machines, bouncing the tire

assembly is not required. The tire should be

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

SECTION 11

CHASSIS SHEET METAL

CONTENTS OF THIS SECTION

Chevrolet and Chevelle 11-1

Chevy II . . 11.-11

Camaro 11-19

Corvette (See Section IB)

Special Tools 11-25

CHEVROLET AND CHEVELLE

INDEX

Page

General Description 11-1

Maintenance and Adjustments •. il-1

Hood Adjustment 11-1

Hinges 11-1

Bumpers 11-1

Catch Assembly and Lock 11-1

Fenders 11-4

Sheet Metal 11-4

Component Part Replacement 11-4

Battery Tray 11-4
Page

Radiator Support 11-4

Fender Assembly . . 11-4

Skirt 11-4

Trim 11-5

Hood Assembly 11-6

Lock and Catch 11-7

Trim and Insulation 11-7

Cowl Vent Grille 11-7

Rear Wheel Cover 11-7

Simulated Wood Grain Moulding . . . . 11-7

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

The new front end appearance of the 1967 Chevrolet

and Chevelle passenger cars affects the servicing and

replacement of the chassis sheet metal. Refer to Section

13 for Radiator and Grille service procedures, Section
14 for Bumpers, and Section 1A for Air Conditioning

components. Figures 1 and 2 illustrate the Chevrolet

and Chevelle sheet metal components.

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS

HOOD ADJUSTMENT

The alignment of the hood is controlled by the position

of the hood hinges and the height of the two bumpers lo-

cated one at each side of the radiator support. The ad-

justment at the hood lock must be made after the hinges

and bumpers are properly adjusted. To align the hood

and lock proceed as follows:

HOOD HINGE (Fig. 3)

NOTE:
The body mounted portion of the hood

hinges are slotted to provide up and down move-

ment. The hood mounted end is slotted to pro-

vide forward and rearward movement.

1.
Scribe a line around the entire hinge plate to be re-

positioned.
2.
Loosen the appropriate screws and shift the position

of the hood into correct alignment using the scribe

marks to check amount of movement. Check align-

ment by tightening screws and closing the hood.

HOOD BUMPERS

Adjust hood bumpers so that hood top surface is flush

with the fender and grille top surfaces. Refer to Fig-

ures 4 and 5 for correct sheet metal adjustment dimen-

sions.

HOOD CATCH AND LOCK

The hood catch assembly (fig. 6) mounting holes are

slotted to provide adjustment for the hood lock bolt. Ad-

just the hood lock bolt until hood engages securely when

closed and hood bumpers are slightly compressed.

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

CHASSIS SHEET METAL 11-7

Fig.
6 - Hood Catch and Lock Plate - Chevelle Shown

HOOD CATCH AND LOCK {Fig. 6)

Removal

1.
Remove catch plate assembly by removing screws

retaining catch to radiator support, center support,

and tie bar.

2.
Remove lock plate by removing screws retaining lock

plate to hood and remove lock plate.

Installation

1.
Install lock and catch plate following the removal

procedure in reverse order. Refer to torque speci-

fications in rear of manual for correct torque values.

2.
Adjust lock and catch plate as outlined under adjust^

ment procedure in this section.

FENDER

ASSEMBLY

ROCKER

PANEL

BODY HINGE

PILLAR

VIEW B

Fig.
7 - Fender to Cowl and Rocker Panel Shimming
HOOD TRIM AND INSULATION (Figs. 13 and 14)

Figure 13 shows the installation details of both the

hood ornamentation and insulating pads. The hood em-

blem and molding retaining nuts may be reached from the

underside of the hood panel.

COWL VENT GRILLE (Figs. 1 and 2)

Removal

1.
Raise hood.

2.
Remove windshield wiper arms and disconnect

washer hoses from tubes. Remove screws securing

washer tubes to cowl vent grille. Pull tubes out

from under rubber molding and remove.

3.
Remove cowl vent grille retaining screws.

4.
Leaving rubber molding in place, remove cowl vent

grille from vehicle.

Installation

Install cowl vent grille following removal procedure in

reverse order. Refer to Figure 4 and 5 for correct

sheet metal adjustments.

REAR WHEEL COVER (CAPRICE, AND OPTIONAL

ON OTHER CHEVROLET MODELS EXCEPT

STATION WAGONS)

Removal and Installation

Lift the skirt (fig. 15) retaining lever (at the bottom

inside skirt flange) over the lip of the flange and pull it

downward. Pull the skirt downward and out of the open-

*
ing. To install the skirt: position it inside the opening,

insert the rod into the slot, lift the skirt and attach the

hook to the wheel opening flange. Hold the skirt from

below and behind to assure proper hook attachment then

lift the retaining lever up and into the skirt lip. Check

to insure cover is firmly engaged to fender.

SIMULATED WOOD GRAIN MOULDING

(STATION WAGONS ONLY)

The wood grain transfer film is a vinyl material with

a pressure sensitive adhesive backing. The transfers

are serviced in pre-cut panels. The shelf life of this

material is 90 days at a maximum temperature of
105°
F.

Removal

Remove the mouldings from the affected panel. Re-

move the transfer film by lifting an edge and peeling the

material from the painted surface. Exercise care so as

not to damage the paint.

NOTE: Application of heat to the transfer and

panel with a heat gun or heat lamp will aid in the

removal.

Installation

Preparation of the surface to which the transfer will

be applied is very important. In cases where body metal

repair has been made it is necessary to prime and color

coat these areas to blend with the undamaged surface.

Apply the transfer film to color coated panels only, never

to bare metal or primer. The surface must be free of

any imperfections that may high-light through the film.

Remove dirt nibs and other foreign material in the paint

by light sanding with 600 grit sandpaper.

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL