1953 JEEP DJ oil pressure

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
against the hub of the crankshaft pulley.
Timing

gears are accessible for inspection or replacement

with
the
engine
installed in the vehicle after re­ moving the radiator, belt drive pulley, and timing
cover.

Should
it be necessary to replace the timing gears, attention must be given to the end float of both
the camshaft and crankshaft and to the running

clearance
of both gears. It is also advisable to
check
both the oil jet and oil passage to the
crank­

shaft front bearing to be sure that they are clear.

D-55.
Inspection and
Repair

Check
the general condition of both gears and
inspect for evidence of excessive wear. Replace
excessively worn or damaged gears. Inspect the
cover and replace if bent or damaged. It is recom­ mended that the crankshaft oil seal in the cover
be replaced when the cover is removed to ensure a
good
seal around the crankshaft. To replace this

seal
with the
engine
in the vehicle
requires
removing
the radiator and water pump.

D-56.
Valves, Springs, and Guides

The
exhaust valves seat on the top of the cylinder

block
with the
stems
extending down through
replaceable valve guides. The exhaust valves are actuated by the camshaft through exhaust valve
tappets. The exhaust valve springs are assembled

and
locked on the lower end of the exhaust valve
stems. The retaining locks are the split type, which
fit in a recess on the valve
stems
and into the taper

in
the valve spring retainers.

Adjustment
of exhaust valves is by means of the
adjusting
screw threaded into the upper end of the
exhaust valve tappets. An exhaust valve rotator used as a valve spring retainer is installed on the
lower end of the exhaust valve.
This
valve rotator,
known
as "Roto Cap", is a spring-loaded
ball

bearing
device. On each lift, or opening stroke of
a
valve, the rotator
gives
the valve a slight positive
clockwise rotation.

The
intake valves operate in valve
guides
in the
cylinder
head and are actuated by rocker arms.

The
rocker arms are actuated by valve push rods

and
the intake valve tappets. The intake valve
springs,
the intake valve spring retainers, and the

intake
valve spring retainer locks make up the

remainder
of the valve operating parts. An intake
valve spring retainer oil seal which encircles the

upper
end of the intake valve
between
the valve
locks and the upper end of the valve spring re

tainer,
controls the passage of oil along the valve
stem and guide.

Note:
When
engine
trouble indicates defective
valves as a possible source of trouble, also check

all
vacuum line connections for possible leaks.

D-57.
Inspection of Valves, Springs,
and
Guides

Clean
the valves on a wire wheel, making sure that

all
carbon is removed from the top and the under­
side of the heads and that all gum and varnish
deposits
are removed from the stems.
Polish
the valve
stems
with steel wool or crocus

cloth.
Visually
inspect all valves for warpage,

cracks,
or excessive burning and discard if one of

these
conditions exists. Replace any worn, pitted,

or
corroded valves that cannot be cleaned with a
wire
brush.
Replace any valves when
seats
are pitted, burned, or corroded so badly that they
cannot be cleaned up with a light refacing on a valve refacing machine.

Replace
valves with marks of scoring or abrasion visible on the stem. Replace any valves with bent

stems
which
will
be apparent when the valve is
mounted in the valve refacing machine.

Note:
Use only hard-face exhaust valves for
replacement.

Examine
the
stems
of valves which employ the
ball
bearing rotators.
Wear
marks around the
cir­

cumference of the
stems
indicates that the valve is
rotating satisfactorily.
Vertical
heavy pressure

areas
indicate that the valve is not rotating and the valve spring retainer (Roto
Cap)
should be replaced

if
at fault.
Check
the diameter of the valve stem at two or three places along the length of the stem

with
a micrometer. The intake valve stem diameter is .3733" to .3738" [9,482 a
9,495
mm.]. The
exhaust valve stem diameter is .371" to .372"
[9,423
a
9,449
mm.].

Note:
Exhaust
and intake valve springs are

similar
in appearance. They must not be inter­
changed as they have different spring
charac­

teristics.

Wash
the valve springs thoroughly in solvent.

Visually
examine the springs and replace any that

are
deformed or obviously damaged. Examine for

corrosion
from moisture or acid etching which might
FIG.
D-19—TESTING
VALVE
SPRING

1—
Torque
Wrench

2—
Spring
Testing
Fixture

3—
Valve
Spring
54

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

develop
into surface cracks and cause failure.

Measure
the over all free length of the springs and
replace any that do not measure to standard: 1%" [35,7 mm.] for intake valve springs and 2j^"
[63,5 mm.] for exhaust valve springs. If possible,
check each valve spring in a valve spring testing
fixture C-647 or equivalent as shown in Fig. D-l9.
Test
each spring when compressed to the two
different spring lengths given (representing valve closed and valve open spring length). If any spring
fails to register spring tension equal to or greater
than
the minimum load limit in pounds specified for that spring length, replace the spring.

Length
Minimun
Load

Intake
valve spring. . .
1.660"
[4,216 cm.] 66 lb. [29,9 kg.]
1.400"
[3,556 cm.] 140 lb. [63,5 kg.]

Exhaust
valve spring. 2.109" [5,356 cm.] 47 lb. [21,3 kg.]
1.750"
[4,445 cm.] 110 lb. [49,9 kg.]

Note:
When using a spring checking fixture C-647

or
equivalent as shown in Fig. D-l9, it is necessary
to convert the torque wrench reading which is in pounds-feet to the static pound pressure specified above according to the instructions furnished with
the wrench. For example, should the torque wrench reading be 50 lb-ft. and the wrench is two
feet
long
the static pressure of the spring
will
be 50 x 2 or 100 lbs.

Clean
the valve
guides
with a standard valve guide
cleaner or a wire
brush.
Check
the valve
guides
in the cylinder block. Replace valve
guides
which are

broken
or worn enough to cause excessive valve

stem-to-guide
clearance. See Par. D-61.
Standard
intake valve clearance is .0007" to .0022"

[0,0178
a
0,0559
mm.] and the exhaust valve
clearance is .0025" to .0045" [0,0635 a
0,1143
mm.].

Excessive
clearance
between
the valve
stems
and
guides
will
cause improper seating and burned
valves. When there is a tendency to draw oil vapor
through the guide causing excessive oil consump­ tion, fouled
spark
plugs, and poor low-speed per­
formance. To check the clearance of the valve stem
to the valve guide, take a new valve and place in
each valve guide.
Check
the clearance with a
suitably mounted
dial
indicator or feel the clearance by moving the valve stem back and forth. If this
check shows excessive clearance it
will
be necessary to replace the valve guide.
D-58.
Refacing Valves

Re
face the valves with a valve refacer. The valve

refacer
manufacturer's instructions should be fol­
lowed carefully to ensure a valve face concentric

with
the valve stem. Reface both intake and ex­
haust valves to an angle of 46°.
Take
off only the
minimum
of metal required to clean up the valve faces.

If
the thickness of the
edge
of the valve head is
reduced to
less
than
J^>"
[0>8 mm.] replace the valve.

Note:
Cocked or deformed valve springs or im­

properly
installed or missing locks can be responsible
for valve problems.

D-59.
Valve Seat Inspection
and
Refacing

Inspect the valve
seats
for
cracks,
burns, pitting,
ridges, or improper angle.
During
any general

engine
overhaul it is advisable to reface the valve

seats
in both the cylinder block and head regardless
of their condition. If the valve
guides
are to be re­ placed, this must be
done
before refacing the valve
seats.
Note
that later
engines
have hardened
exhaust valve seat inserts.

Valve
seat inserts must be concentric with finish

ream
of valve stem
guides
(exhaust) within .002"
[0,051
mm.] total indicator reading.

When
necessary to reface the valve seats, use a
valve seat grinder in accordance with the grinder
manufacturer's
instructions. Any grinding of valve

seats
should be preceded by touching up the
grinding
stone
so that their angles are accurate and
the
stone
is not
clogged.
Grind
each valve seat to

a
true 45° angle. Never grind any more than is necessary to clean up pits, grooves, or to correct
the valve seat runout.
Check
the valve
seats
with
10465

FIG.
D-20—VALVE
WITH
ROTO
CAP
FIG.
D-21—GAUGING
VALVE
SEATS

55

'Jeep5
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
Driver
W-238 is equipped
with
an
adapter
ring

which
correctly positions the guides. See Fig. D-23. Start a new exhaust valve guide, blunt (nontapered)
end
first,
into
the valve guide bore in the top of the cylinder block. When properly positioned, the
top end of the guide is exactly
1
"
[25,4 mm.] below
the level of the top of the block as shown in Fig.
D-24.
Start
a new intake valve guide, tapered end
first, into position from the
bottom
of the cylinder

head.
When properly positioned, the end of the
guide is just flush with the end of the valve guide
bore in the cylinder head as shown in Fig. D-24.

Run
a reamer (Tool
C-3 8)
through the new
guides

after they have been correctly positioned.

D-62. Tappets
and
Cover

The
valve tappets are lubricated through oil troughs cast in the crankcase. The troughs are
filled by oil sprayed from the connecting rod ends

and
passages are drilled through the tappet
guides
to
carry
the oil to the tappets. A
groove
around the center of the tappet shank carries the oil up and down the guide.

Check
the threads and fit of the exhaust valve ad­

justing
screw in the exhaust valve tappets. The fit of a screw should be such that a wrench is required to
turn
it into or out of the tappet as
these
are of
the self-locking type. Replace the worn part, either
the screw or the tappet, or both, if there is
loose­

ness
between
the parts.
D-63.
Crankshaft Rear Bearing Seal

Oil
leakage through the
rear
main bearing is pre­ vented by a metal supported neoprene lip type

seal
which can readily be installed without remov­
ing the crankshaft.

Should
trouble be experienced with oil leaking

from
the
rear
main bearing there are several points

which
should be checked.

a.
Be sure that the identifying paint daub on the
bearing
cap is the same as that appearing on the
center bearing web.

b.
The bearing to crankshaft clearance must not
exceed .0029"
[0,0736
mm.].

c.
Place sealer on the faces of the
rear
bearing cap

from
the
rear
oil
groove
to the oil seal grooves.

d-
Be sure the rubber oil seals extend about 34" [6 mm.] below the
bottom
face of the cap.

e.
Be sure the oil pan gasket is not leaking.
f.
Check
to be sure the oil leak is not at the cam­
shaft
rear
bearing expansion plug or from the
crankcase.

D-64.
Floating Oil
Intake •
Refer to Fig. D-25 and D-26.

The
floating oil intake is attached to the
bottom

of the crankcase with two screws. The float and
screen causes it to ride, raise and lower with the
amount of oil in the pan.
This
prevents water or
dirt,
which
may have accumulated in the
bottom

of the oil pan, from circulating through the
engine

because the oil is drawn horizontally from the top

surface.
Whenever removed, the float, screen, and
tube should be cleaned thoroughly to remove any
accumulation
of
dirt.
Also clean the oil pan.

Fluctuating
oil pressure can usually be traced to

an
air leak
between
the oil float support and the

crankcase.

Be
sure the float support flange is flat.
Clean
both
the flange and the crankcase surfaces thoroughly
before installing a new gasket. Be sure the retaining
screws are tight.
D-65. Oil
Pump

The
oil pump is located externally on the left side
of the engine. In operation oil is drawn from the

crankcase
through the floating oil intake then passes through a drilled passage in the crankcase
to the pump from which it is forced through

drilled
passages to the crankshaft and camshaft
bearings. When it is necessary to remove an oil
pump,
first remove the distributor cover and
note
the position of the distributor rotor so that the pump may be reinstalled without disturbing the
ignition timing. To install the pump without dis­

turbing
the timing, the pump gear must be cor­

rectly
meshed with the camshaft driving gear to
allow
engagement
of the key on the distributor shaft with the pump shaft slot, without changing the position of the distributor rotor. Distributor
can
be installed only in one position as the slot and

driving
key are machined off-center.

The
oil pump consists of an inner and outer rotor

within
the pump body. An oil relief valve is mounted in the pump body which controls the oil

pressure.
To disassemble the pump, Fig. D-27, first remove the gear which is retained by straight

pin.
It
will
be necessary to file off one end of the
pin
before driving it out with a small drift. By re­
moving the cover the outer rotor and the inner

rotor
and shaft may be removed through the cover opening.
Failure
of the pump to operate at

full
efficiency may usually be traced to excessive
end float of the rotors or excessive clearance be­ tween the rotors. The clearance
between
the outer

rotor
and the pump body should also be checked.
Match
the rotors
together
with one
lobe
of the inner

rotor
pushed as far as possible into the notch of the outer rotor. Measure the clearance
between
the

lobes
of the rotors as shown in
Fig.
D-28.
This
clear­ ance should be .010"
[0,254
mm.] or less.
If
more, replace both rotors. Measure the clearance

between
the outer rotor and the pump body as
shown in Fig. D-29. Should this clearance exceed .012" [0,305 mm.] the fault is probably in the
pump body and it should be replaced. End float
of the rotors is controlled by the thickness of the cover gasket which is made of special material that

can
be only slightly compressed. Never use other

than
a standard factory gasket.
Check
the cover
to be sure the inner surface is not rough or scored

and
that it is flat within .001" [0,025 mm.]
tested

with
feeler
gauges,
Fig. D-30. Measure thickness of
the rotors which must be within .001" [0,025 mm.]
of each other. Assemble the rotors in the pump body and install the cover without the gasket.
When
the cover screws are tightened to normal
tension, there should be interference
between
the
rotors and the cover making it impossible to
turn
the pump shaft by hand. Remove the cover and re- 57

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D

10262

FIG.
D-26—FLOATING OIL INTAKE AND PAN 1—
Oil
Float

2—
Gasket

3—
Oil
Float Support

4—
Screw and Lockwasher 5—
Oil
Pan Gasket
6—
Oil
Pan 7—
Bolt
and Lockwasher
8—
Drain
Plug
9—
Drain
Plug Gasket
place it with the gasket in position. The rotors
should then rotate freely, providing that end float of the rotors is
less
than the thickness of the gasket
when compressed or .004" [0,102 mm.]. After as­
sembling the gear on the pump shaft, check the
running
clearance
between
the gear and pump body with a feeler
gauge.
This
clearance should be

from
.022" to .051" [0,559 a 1,295 mm.].

Pump
output is controlled by a pressure relief valve.

CAUTION:
The oil pressure relief spring is
cali­

brated.
Never stretch this spring to alter the relief valve pressure setting. Adjust this setting by the use of shims only. Shims are available that can be
added
between
the retainer and the spring to in­
crease pressure. When shims are present, removing
shims
will
decrease pressure.

This
adjustment
will
change the pressure at higher

speeds
but not at idle speed. Safe minimum pres­

sure
is 6 psi. [0,4 kg-cm2] at idle, at which point
the oil pressure light
goes
out; and 20 psi. [1,4
kg-cm2] at
2000
rpm. (32 mph. [51 kph.]).

D-66.
Oil Pan

Examine
the oil pan carefully for evidence of cor­

rosion,
dents, or other damage. Special attention
should be given to the mounting flange to be sure of proper alignment and a tight seal at the cylinder
block, oil pan, and
engine
front plate. Whenever
the oil pan is removed, it is
best
to install a new

oil
pan gasket.

D-67.
Flywheel

The
flywheel is mounted on the
rear
flange of the
crankshaft.
The crankshaft, flywheel, and clutch
assembly are statically and dynamically balanced
separately and as a unit; therefore,
these
com­

ponents
should be assembled in their original
rela­

tive positions to maintain this balance.

D-68.
Flywheel Inspection

Clean
the flywheel thoroughly with cleaning sol­ vent. Inspect the clutch face of the flywheel for

a
burned or scuffed condition or rivet grooves.

Check
the flywheel for run-out or improper mount­
ing according to the installation procedure given

in Par.
D-87.

If
the inner ends of the flywheel ring gear
teeth
are
only slightly burred cr snubbed, remove the burrs
and
reshape the
teeth
using a small emery wheel. 59

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

D

FIG.
D-38—CHECKING
FLYWHEEL
RUN-OUT
place the flywheel on the mounting
bolts
in the

crankshaft.
When installing a new crankshaft or
flywheel, replace the tapered dowel
bolts
with
straight snug-fitting special
bolts
provided using

Flywheel
Dowel Bolt Installing Tool Kit W-231 as shown in Fig. D-35 and D-36. Assemble the

crankshaft
and flywheel in proper relation; then in­

stall
the straight
bolts
previously used and tighten
securely. Next, use the [13,9 mm.]
drill
to
enlarge the tapered holes. Ream the
holes
with the 5fo" [14,3 mm.] straight reamer and install the
two special flywheel
bolts
with nuts and lock­
washers in place of the two tapered dowel
bolts
formerly
used.
This
procedure overcomes the
necessity of reaming special tapered holes.

Tighten
the nuts alternately and evenly until each
is tightened 35 to 41 lb-ft. [4,8 a 5,7 kg-m.].

After
installation check the run-out of the flywheel

with
a
dial
indicator attached to the
engine
plate
as illustrated in
Fig.
D-38. Mount the
dial
indicator

with
the contact button of the indicator resting against the clutch face of the flywheel. Set the

indicator
at zero and rotate the flywheel. Maximum
allowable run-out is .008"
[0,203
mm.] near the
outer
edge
of the
rear
face of the flywheel.
With
the flywheel housing installed temporarily,
the alignment can be checked with a
dial
indicator. Without the clutch installed on the flywheel, a

dial
indicator can be mounted on one of the flywheel bolts. Set the
dial
indicator with the button resting
against the
rear
face of the flywheel housing. Ro­
tate
the flywheel, noting the run-out on the
indi­

cator.
Maximum allowable run-out is .005" [0,127
mm.].
Relocate the
dial
indicator so that the
button is against the side of the
rear
opening to
check the
radial
run-out. Rotate the flywheel and
note
the run-out which should not exceed .006" [0,152 mm.].

D-88.
Install
Flywheel Housing

Be
certain that the mating surfaces of the flywheel housing and cylinder block are clean and smooth.

Place
the flywheel housing in position and attach to the cylinder block and
engine
rear
plate. The
long
bolts
through the lugs on the
engine
crankcase
and
those
below are installed with the nuts on the
flywheel housing side.
Install
the other
bolts
from
the
rear
except the screw used to attach the top
side of the starting motor. Tighten securely.

D-89.
Install
Clutch

To
install the clutch assembly with the
engine
out
of the vehicle use a clutch plate aligning arbor.

Place
the clutch driven plate in position against
the flywheel. Insert the arbor into the clutch driven plate and clutch shaft bushing and expand the arbor

in
the bushing to hold it in place. Hold the clutch
pressure plate assembly in position against the
clutch
driven plate and install the attaching
bolts

and
washers, tightening the
bolts
alternately and
evenly. Remove the arbor.

D-90.
Install
Valves and Springs

Oil
the valve stems. Insert all intake and exhaust valves in the valve
guides
from which they were
removed.

Install
one exhaust valve spring and exhaust valve

spring
retainer (Roto Cap) for each exhaust valve.

Slip
the top end of the spring
onto
the
bottom
end
of the valve guide and, with a large screwdriver,
snap the spring and retainer over the tappet ad­

justing
screw. Make certain that the two closely wound coils of each spring are at the top (placed up to seat against the block.) See Fig. D-39.

Turn
the crankshaft as necessary to bring each
exhaust valve tappet to its lowest position. Using a
valve spring lifter, compress each exhaust valve

spring,
while holding the valve down, so that the
stem
extends
through the valve spring retainer
far
enough to permit installation of the valve

spring
locks. Heavy lubricating oil or grease
placed on the inside surface of the valve locks
will

help to hold the locks on the valve stem until the valve spring lifter can be removed. When installa­
tion of exhaust valves is complete, remove any
cloths used to block the valve compartment floor
openings.
Install
the intake valves and springs in the cylinder head placing the ends of the springs
having the closed coils down against the cylinder
head.
FIG.
D-39—VALVE
TAPPETS
AND
SPRINGS

65

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
Lubricate
the connecting rod bearing surfaces
generously with
engine
oil and install the bearing
cap with the numbered side matched to the num­
bered side of the connecting rod. Torque the nuts
evenly 35 to 45 lb-ft. [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.]. The con­
necting rod cap nuts are locked with stamped nuts.

Used
stamped nuts should be discarded and re­
placed with new
ones.
These locking stamped nuts
should be installed with the flat face toward the
connecting rod nut.
Turn
the locking nut finger
tight and then 34
turn
more with a wrench. Refer
to Par. D-36 for detailed information on fitting pistons and rings in the cylinder bores.

D-96.
Install
Crankshaft
Pulley

Align
the keyway in the pulley with the woodruff key installed in the crankshaft. Drive the pulley

onto
the crankshaft and secure it in place with
the crankshaft pulley nut. Insert a block of wood

between
one of the counterweights on the
crank­

shaft and the side of the cylinder block to prevent the crankshaft from turning, then tighten the nut.

D-97.
Install
Oil Pan
Before installing the oil pan, make a final internal
inspection particularly making certain that the
inside of the cylinder block is clean. Apply a thin
coat of gasket paste on the oil pan. Place the new

oil
pan gasket in position. Set the oil pan in posi­
tion on the cylinder block and install the oil pan.
Torque
the attaching
bolts
12 to 15 lb-ft. [1,7 a 2,1

kg-m.].
Install
the oil pan
drain
plug and gasket

and
tighten the plug securely.

D-98.
Install
Cylinder
Head

Make
certain that the entire top of the cylinder

block
assembly, the lower surface of the cylinder

head,
and the cylinder head gasket are clean. Blow

all
dirt
or carbon out of the blind tapped bolt
holes

in
the cylinder block before the cylinder head and gasket are installed. Using aerosol spray sealer

Part
No. 994757, spray a thincoat on both surfaces
of the head gasket, position the new cylinder head gasket with the crimped
edges
of the gasket metal down (See Fig. D-31).
This
gasket position allows a
positive seal along the narrow surfaces of the
cylin­

der
head
between
the combustion chambers and
eliminates the possibility of burning combustion
10102

FIG.
D-41—CYLINDER
HEAD
BOLT
TIGHTENING
SEQUENCE
gases
reaching
an
asbestos
portion of the cylinder
head gasket.
Install
the cylinder head bolts. Tighten

the
bolts
with a torque wrench to 60 to 70 lb-ft. 8,3 a 9,7
kg-m.]
in the sequence shown in
Fig.
D-41.
Do not overlook installing the cylinder head bolt

in
the intake
manifold
directly under the
car­

buretor
opening.

D-99.
Install
Rocker Arm Assembly

a.
Insert
ball
ends of the intake valve push rods through the cylinder head and cylinder block and
seat them in the cupped head of the intake valve
tappets.

b.
Install
the
rocker-arm
assembly on the 'four

rocker-arm-mounting
studs. Align the rocker arms
so that the
ball
ends of the intake valve tappet

adjusting
screws fit into the cup ends of the push
rods.

c.
Install
the four rocker-arm-attaching nuts.
Thread
each nut down evenly in sequence, one

turn
at a time, until the torque is 30 to 36 lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,0 kg-m.].

d.
Cement a new gasket on the rocker arm cover.
Install
the cover placing an oil seal then a flat

washer
and nut on each cover stud. Cement a new gasket on the exhaust valve cover.
Install
the cover and crankcase ventilation fittings using a
new gasket back of the vent cover and new copper
ring
gaskets under the attaching screw heads.

Torque
the valve tappet cover nuts 7 to 10 lb-ft. [1,0 a 1,4 kg-m.].
D-100.
Install
Distributor and
Spark
Plugs

To
correctly install the distributor, it
will
be neces­

sary
to place No. 1 piston in the firing position.
To
locate the firing position of No. 1 piston, first

turn
the
engine
until No. 1 piston is moving up on
the compression stroke as indicated by compression

pressure
being forced through the
spark
plug open­

ing.
Turn
the
engine
slowly until the 5° before top
center
mark
on the timing gear cover is in align­
ment with the
mark
on the crankshaft pulley. Oil
the distributor housing where it bears on the
cylin­
der
block and install the distributor. Mount the

rotor
on distributor shaft and
turn
the shaft until
the rotor points towards No. 1
spark
plug terminal
tower position (when cap is installed, about 5
o'clock) with the contact points just breaking.
Move the rotor back and forth slightly until the

driving
lug on the end of the shaft enters the slot cut in the oil pump gear and slide the distributor
assembly down into place. Rotate the distributor body until the contact points are just breaking.
Install
the hold down screw.

Connect
the core
primary
wire to the distributor.

Clean
and adjust the
spark
plugs, setting the elec­

trode
gaps
at .030" [0,762 mm.].
Install
the plugs
to prevent any foreign matter entering the com­
bustion chambers during the remaining operations.
Torque
the
spark
plugs 25 to 30 lb-ft. [3,5 a 4,6

kg-m.].

Install
spark
plug cables, placing them in the dis­

tributor
cap terminal towers starting with No. 1

and
installing in a counter clockwise direction of
the firing order sequence (1-3-4-2). 67

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-101.
Install
Manifold

If
manifold studs were removed for replacement,
apply sealer on the stud threads
before
installing
a
new stud.
See Section Fl for exhaust emission controlled

engines.
Make
certain that no foreign objects are inside the manifold and that all
passages
are clear. Place a
new set of manifold
gaskets
in position on the side
of the cylinder block.
Then,
carefully slide the manifold
onto
the studs and against the cylinder block being careful not to damage the gaskets.
Torque
all manifold attaching nuts evenly 29 to
35 lb-ft. [4,0 a 4,8 kg-m.].
D-102.
Install
Oil
Filler
Tube

When
installing the oil filler tube, be sure that the
beveled lower end is away from the crankshaft.
Place a
piece
of
hard
wood
over the top of the
tube

to prevent damage to the cap gasket seat.
D-103.
Install
Water Pump

Make
certain that the mating surfaces of the water pump and the cylinder block are clean and smooth.
Install
the gasket on the
flange
of the pump and

install
the pump in position on the cylinder block.
Torque
the water pump attaching
bolts
alternately

and
evenly 12 to 17 lb-ft. [1,7 a 2,3 kg-m.].
D-104.
Install
Water Outlet Fitting

Install
the thermostat and the water
outlet
fitting.
Torque
the water
outlet
fitting attaching
bolts
20
to 25 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].
FIG.
D-42—INSTALLING HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
IN
VEHICLE

1—
Lifting
Sling
2— Hoist
Cable

3—
Hurricane
F4 Engine
4— Dowel Bolt
5—
Flywheel
Housing
D-105.
ENGINE INSTALLATION
a.
Install
lifting sling to
engine
and using suitable hoist raise the
engine
from its blocking or stand

and
then slowly lower it
into
the
engine
compart­ment of the vehicle.

Note:
When installing the
Hurricane
F4 Engine,
two % x 4 inch
guide
bolts
or
dowels
should be
used to properly
guide
and align the
engine
to the
flywheel housing (See Fig. D-42).
b. Slightly tilt the
engine
downward and at the
same time slide the
engine
rearward
while lining up the transmission main gear shaft with the clutch
throw-out bearing and disc spline.

Note
:The
engine
crankshaft may have to be turned
slightly to align the transmission main gear shaft
with the clutch disc spline.
c. Remove the
guide
bolts
or
dowels
and secure
the
engine
to the housing.

d.
Secure the front
engine
mounts to the frame brackets and
bolt
ground cable to
engine.

e. Remove lifting sling from
engine.

f. Connect exhaust pipe to
engine
manifold flange.
g. Connect throttle and choke cables to carburetor.
h.
Install
fan to water pump pulley.
i.
Connect fuel pump line to main fuel line,

j.
Replace starting motor assembly. k. Connect
engine
wiring harness connectors at
front of cowl.

I.
Connect wires to starting motor assembly, water
temperature and oil pressure sending units and alternator.

NOTE:
ON
ENGINES EQUIPPED WITH EX­

HAUST
EMISSION CONTROL,
REPLACE
THE
AIR
PUMP,
AIR
DISTRIBUTOR
MANI­

FOLD,
AND
ANTI-BACKFIRE (DIVERTER)
VALVE.
SEE
SECTION
Fl.
m. Replace radiator and radiator grille support
rods and connect coolant
hoses
to
engine.

Note:
Replace heater
hoses
if vehicle is equipped
with hot water heater.

n. Fill
radiator with coolant and
engine
with oil
(see
Lubrication
Chart).

o.
Install
air cleaner and connect carburetor air
hose.

p. Connect battery cables and start
engine,

q.
Install
hood
and road
test
vehicle.
D-103.
FINAL
IN-VEHICLE
ADJUSTMENTS
a.
Clean
battery terminals and check battery. b.
Check
ignition terminals and check battery.
c. Service carburetor air cleaner.

d.
Service positive crankcase ventilation valve.
e.
Check
fuel lines. f. Gap and install new
spark
plugs.
g.
Check
distributor
points
and capacitor; replace
if
necessary. 68

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-112.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

Poor
Fuel
Economy Ignition Timing Slow or Spark Advance Stuck

Carburetor
Float High
Accelerator Pump Not Properly Adjusted
High
Fuel
Pump Pressure

Fuel
Leakage
Leaky
Fuel
Pump Diaphragm
Loose Engine Mounting Causing High
Fuel
Level

in
Carburetor

Low
Compression Valves Sticking

Spark
Plugs Bad

Spark
Plug Cables Bad Weak
Coil
or Condenser Improper Valve Tappet Clearance

Carburetor
Air Cleaner Dirty
High Oil Level in Air Cleaner Dragging Brakes

Front
Wheels Out of Alignment
Tires
Improperly Inflated Inaccurate Odometer

Faulty
Fuel
Tank
Cap

Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe

Lack
of Power
Low
Compression Ignition System (Timing Late)
Improper Functioning Carburetor or
Fuel
Pump

Fuel
Lines
Clogged
Air
Cleaner Restricted
Engine Temperature High Improper Tappet Clearance
Sticking Valves Valve Timing Late

Leaky
Gaskets
Muffler
Clogged
Bent Exhaust Pipe

Defective
Spark Plugs—Clean or Replace
Defective
Breaker Points—Replace
Points

Incorrect Breaker Point Gap—Reset
Points

Defective
Condenser or Coil—Replace
Loose Electrical Connections—Locate and Tighten
Broken Valve Spring—Replace Spring Broken Piston or Rings—Replace
Defective
Head Gasket—Replace Gasket
Cracked
Distributor Cap—Replace Cap

Low
Compression
Leaky
Valves
Poor Piston Ring Seal Sticking Valves
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder
Scored or Worn
Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Piston Clearance too Large
Leaky
Cylinder Head Gasket
Burned Valves and
Seats
Sticking Valves or too Loose in Guides Improper Timing
Excessive Carbon Around Valve Head and Seat Overheating
Valve Spring Weak or Broken Burned Valves and Seats—Continued
Valve Tappet Sticking
Valve Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Clogged
Exhaust System
Valves Sticking Warped Valve Improper Tappet Clearance
Carbonized or Scored Valve
Stems
Insufficient Clearance Valve Stem to Guide
Weak or Broken Valve Spring Valve Spring Cocked Contaminated Oil
Overheating Inoperative Cooling System
Thermostat Inoperative Improper Ignition Timing
Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Carbon Accumulation

Fan
Belt too Loose

Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe

Oil
System Failure
Scored or Leaky Piston Rings

Popping-Spitting-Detonation
Improper Ignition
Improper Carburetion
Excessive Carbon
Deposit
in Combustion
Cham­
bers
Poor Valve Seating Sticking Valves
Broken Valve Spring Tappets Adjusted too Close

Spark
Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in
Fuel
Clogged
Lines Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Oil Comsumption Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Worn or Broken Piston Rings Improperly Fitted or Weak Piston Ring Oil Return
Holes
Clogged
Excessive Clearance, Main and Connecting Rod
Bearings

Oil
Leaks at Gaskets or Oil Seals
Excessive Clearance, Valve Stem to Valve Guide (Intake)

Cylinder
Bores Scored, Out-of-Round or Tapered Too Much Clearance, Piston to Cylinder Bore
Misaligned Connecting Rods
High Road
Speeds
or Temperature
Crankcase
Ventilator Not Operating
Bearing Failure
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Out-of-Round

Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Rough

Lack
of Oil
Oil
Leakage
Dirty
Oil

Low
Oil Pressure or Oil Pump Failure
Drilled
Passages
in Crankcase or Crankshaft
Clogged

Oil
Screen Dirty Connecting Rod Bent 70