2013 YAMAHA YZ450F lock

3-15
CHASSIS
c. Tighten the locknut.
Be sure to tighten the locknut, as it
will cause poor brake perfor-
mance.
CHECKING AND REPLACING THE
FRONT BRAKE PADS
1. Inspect:
• Brake pad thickness "a"
Out of specification→Replace as
a set.
2. Replace:
• Brake pad
Brake pad replacement steps:
a. Remove the pad pin plug "1".b. Loosen the pad pin "2".
c. Remove the brake caliper "3"
from the front fork.
d. Remove the pad pin and brake
pads "4".
e. Connect the transparent hose "5"
to the bleed screw "6" and place
the suitable container under its
end.
f. Loosen the bleed screw and push
the brake caliper piston in.
Do not reuse the drained brake flu-
id.
g. Tighten the bleed screw.
h. Install the brake pads "7" and pad
pin.
• Install the brake pads with their pro-
jections "a" into the brake caliper re-
cesses "b".
• Temporarily tighten the pad pin at
this point.
i. Install the brake caliper "8" and
tighten the pad pin "9".
j. Install the pad pin plug "10".
3. Inspect:
• Brake fluid level
Refer to "CHECKING THE
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL" section.
4. Check:
• Brake lever operation
A softy or spongy feeling→Bleed
brake system.
Refer to "BLEEDING THE HY-
DRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM" sec-
tion.
CHECKING AND REPLACING THE
REAR BRAKE PADS
1. Inspect:
• Brake pad thickness "a"
Out of specification→Replace as
a set. Locknut:
6 Nm (0.6 m •kg, 4.3
ft•lb)
Brake pad thickness:
4.4 mm (0.17 in)
: 1.0 mm (0.04
in)
Bleed screw:
6 Nm (0.6 m•kg, 4.3
ft•lb)
Bolt (brake caliper):
28 Nm (2.8 m•kg, 20
ft•lb)
Pad pin:
18 Nm (1.8 m•kg, 13
ft•lb)
Pad pin plug:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Brake pad thickness:
6.4 mm (0.25 in)
: 1.0 mm (0.04
in)

3-17
CHASSIS
a. Lower level
A. Front
B. Rear
CHECKING THE SPROCKET
1. Inspect:
• Sprocket teeth "a"
Excessive wear→Replace.
Replace the drive sprocket, rear
wheel sprocket and drive chain as a
set.
CHECKING THE DRIVE CHAIN
1. Measure:
• Drive chain length (15 links) "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
• While measuring the drive chain
length, push down on the drive
chain to increase its tension.
• Measure the length between drive
chain roller "1" and "16" as shown.
• Perform this measurement at two or
three different places.
2. Remove:
• Master link clip
•Joint "1"
• Drive chain "2"
3. Clean:
• Drive chain
Place it in kerosene, and brush off
as much dirt as possible. Then re-
move the drive chain from the ker-
osene and dry the drive chain.
4. Check:
• Drive chain stiffness "a"
Clean and oil the drive chain and
hold as illustrated.
Stiff→Replace the drive chain.
5. Install:
• Drive chain "1"
•Joint "2"
• Master link clip "3"
Be sure to install the master link
clip to the direction as shown.
a. Turning direction6. Lubricate:
• Drive chain
ADJUSTING THE DRIVE CHAIN
SLACK
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Check:
• Drive chain slack "a"
Above the seal guard installation
bolt.
Out of specification→Adjust.
Before checking and/or adjusting, ro-
tate the rear wheel through several
revolutions and check the slack sev-
eral times to find the tightest point.
Check and/or adjust the drive chain
slack with the rear wheel in this "tight
chain" position.
3. Adjust:
• Drive chain slack
Drive chain slack adjustment
steps:
a. Loosen the axle nut "1" and lock-
nuts "2".
b. Adjust the drive chain slack by
turning the adjusters "3". Drive chain length (15
links):
: 242.9 mm
(9.563 in)
Drive chain lubricant:
SAE 10W-40 motor oil
or suitable chain lubri-
cants
Drive chain slack:
50–60 mm (2.0–2.4 in)
To tighten→Turn the adjuster "3"
counterclockwise.
To loosen→Turn the adjuster "3"
clockwise and push wheel for-
ward.

3-18
CHASSIS
c. Turn each adjuster exactly the
same amount to maintain correct
axle alignment. (There are marks
"a" on each side of the drive chain
puller alignment.) NOTICE: Im-
proper drive chain slack will
overload the engine aswell as
other vital parts of the motorcy-
cle and can lead to chain slip-
page or breakage. To prevent
this from occurring, keep the
drive chain slack within the
specified limits.
A. Right
B. Left
Turn the adjuster so that the drive
chain is in line with the sprocket, as
viewed from the rear.
d. Tighten the axle nut while pushing
down the drive chain.
e. Tighten the locknuts.
CHECKING THE FRONT FORK
1. Inspect:
• Front fork smooth action
Operate the front brake and
stroke the front fork.
Unsmooth action/oil leakage→
Repair or replace.CHECKING THE FRONT FORK
PROTECTOR GUIDE
1. Inspect:
• Protector guide "1"
Out of specification→Replacet.
The protector guide reaches the limit
of its use when it is worn down to the
same height "a" as of the outer tube
circumference.
CLEANING THE FRONT FORK OIL
SEAL AND DUST SEAL
1. Remove:
•Protector
• Dust seal "1"
Use a thin screw driver, and be care-
ful not to damage the inner fork tube
and dust seal.
2. Clean:
• Dust seal "a"
• Oil seal "b"
• Clean the dust seal and oil seal af-
ter every run.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the inner tube.
RELIEVING THE FRONT FORK
INTERNAL PRESSURE
If the front fork initial movement feels
stiff during a run, relieve the front fork
internal pressure.
1. Elevate the front wheel by placing
a suitable stand under the engine.
2. Remove the air bleed screw "1"
and release the internal pressure
from the front fork.
3. Install:
• Air bleed screw
ADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
REBOUND DAMPING FORCE
1. Adjust:
• Rebound damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".
• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position. Axle nut:
135 Nm (13.5 m•kg, 98
ft•lb)
Locknut:
21 Nm (2.1 m•kg, 15
ft•lb)
Air bleed screw:
1 Nm (0.1 m•kg, 0.7
ft•lb)
Stiffer "a" →Increase the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
11 clicks out
* 10 clicks out
* Except for USA and CDN

3-19
CHASSIS
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
ADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
COMPRESSION DAMPING FORCE
1. Adjust:
• Compression damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".
• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
CHECKING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER
1. Inspect:
• Swingarm smooth action
Abnormal noise/unsmooth action
→Grease the pivoting points or
repair the pivoting points.
Damage/oil leakage→Replace.
ADJUSTING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER SPRING PRELOAD
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Measure:
• Spring fitting length
• The I.D. mark "a" is marked at the
end of the spring.
• Spring specification varies accord-
ing to the difference in the produc-
tion lot.
3. Adjust:
• Spring preload
Adjustment steps:
a. Loosen the locknut "1".
b. Loosen the adjuster "2" until there
is some clearance between the
spring and adjuster.
c. Measure the spring free length
"a".
d. Turn the adjuster "2".
• Be sure to remove all dirt and mud
from around the locknut and adjust-
er before adjustment.
• The length of the spring (installed)
changes 1.5 mm (0.06 in) per turn
of the adjuster.
Never attempt to turn the adjuster
beyond the maximum or minimum
setting.
e. Tighten the locknut.
Stiffer "a" →Increase the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
9 clicks out
* 11 clicks out
* Except for USA and CDN
Standard fitting length:
I.D. MARK/
Q'TYLength
White/1 250.0 mm
(9.84 in)
*246.0 mm
(9.69 in)
* Except for USA and CDN
Stiffer →Increase the spring pre-
load. (Turn the adjuster "2" in.)
Softer→Decrease the spring pre-
load. (Turn the adjuster "2"
out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Position in
which the
spring is turned
in 18 mm (0.71
in) from its free
length.Position in
which the
spring is turned
in 1.5 mm (0.06
in) from its free
length.
Locknut:
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)

3-21
CHASSIS
CHECKING THE TIRE PRESSURE
1. Measure:• Tire pressureOut of specification →Adjust.
• Check the tire while it is cold.
• Loose bead stoppers allow the tire
to slip off its position on the rim
when the tire pressure is low.
• A tilted tire valve stem indicates that
the tire slips off its position on the
rim.
• If the tire valve st em is found tilted,
the tire is considered to be slipping
off its position. Correct the tire posi-
tion.
CHECKING AND TIGHTENING THE
SPOKES
The following procedure applies to all
of the spokes.
1. Check: • SpokesBend/damage →Replace.
Loose spoke →Retighten.
Tap the spokes with a screw-
driver.
A tight spoke will emit a clear, ringing
tone; a loose spoke will sound flat.
2. Tighten: • Spokes(with a spoke nipple wrench "1")
Be sure to retighten these spokes be-
fore and after break-in.
CHECKING THE WHEELS
1. Inspect:
• Wheel runoutElevate the wheel and turn it.
Abnormal runout → Replace.
2. Inspect: • Bearing free playExist play →Replace.
CHECKING AND ADJUSTING THE
STEERING HEAD
1. Place a stand under the engine to raise the front wheel off the
ground. WARNING! Securely
support the vehicle so that
there is no danger of it falling
over.
2. Check: • Steering stem
Grasp the bottom of the forks and
gently rock the fork assembly
back and forth.
Free play →Adjust steering head. 3. Check:
• Steering smooth actionTurn the handlebar lock to lock.
Unsmooth action →Adjust steer-
ing ring nut.
4. Adjust: • Steering ring nut
Steering ring nut adjustment
steps:
a. Remove the number plate.
b. Remove the handlebar and upper bracket.
c. Loosen the steering ring nut "1"
using the steering nut wrench "2".
d. Tighten the steering ring nut "3" using steering nut wrench "4".
• Apply the lithium soap base grease on the thread of the steering stem.
• Set the torque wrench to the steer- ing nut wrench so that they form a
right angle.
Standard tire pressure:
100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2,
15 psi)
Spoke nipple wrench: YM-01521/90890-01521
Spokes: 3 Nm (0.3 m•kg, 2.2
ft•lb)
Steering nut wrench:YU-33975/90890-01403
Steering nut wrench: YU-33975/90890-01403
Steering ring nut (initial
tightening): 38 Nm (3.8 m•kg, 27
ft•lb)

3-22
CHASSIS
e. Loosen the steering ring nut one
turn.
f. Retighten the steering ring nut us-
ing the steering nut wrench.
Avoid over-tightening.
g. Check the steering stem by turn-
ing it lock to lock. If there is any
binding, remove the steering stem
assembly and inspect the steer-
ing bearings.
h. Install the washer "5", upper
bracket "6", steering stem nut "7",
handlebar "8", handlebar upper
holder "9" and number plate "10".
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the contact surface of the steer-
ing stem nut when installing.
• The handlebar upper holder should
be installed with the punched mark
"a" forward.
• Install the handlebar so that the
marks "b" are in place on both
sides.
• Install the handlebar so that the pro-
jection "c" of the handlebar upper
holder is positioned at the mark on
the handlebar as shown.
• Insert the end of the fuel breather
hose "11" into the hole in the steer-
ing stem.
First tighten the bolts on the front
side of the handlebar upper holder,
and then tighten the bolts on the
rear side.
Steering ring nut (final
tightening):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)
Steering stem nut:
145 Nm (14.5 m•kg, 105
ft•lb)
Handlebar upper holder:
28 Nm (2.8 m•kg, 20
ft•lb)
Pinch bolt (upper brack-
et):
21 Nm (2.1 m•kg, 15
ft•lb)
Number plate:
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)

4-7
RADIATOR
HANDLING NOTE
Do not remove the radiator cap
when the engine and radiator are
hot. Scalding hot fluid and steam
may be blown out under pressure,
which could cause serious injury.
When the engine has cooled, open
the radiator cap by the following
procedure:
Place a thick rag, like a towel, over
the radiator cap, slowly rotate the
cap counterclockwise to the de-
tent. This procedure allows any re-
sidual pressure to escape. When
the hissing sound has stopped,
press down on the cap while turn-
ing counterclockwise and remove
it.
CHECKING THE RADIATOR
1. Inspect:
• Radiator core "1"
Obstruction→Blow out with com-
pressed air through rear of the ra-
diator.
Bent fin→Repair/replace.
INSTALLING THE RADIATOR
1. Install:
• O-ring "1"
• Pipe 1 "2"
• Radiator hose 1 "3"
• O-ring "4"
• Pipe 2 "5"
• Radiator hose 3 "6"• Radiator hose 4 "7"
2. Install:
• Grommet "1"
Face the smaller portion "a" of the
grommet inward.
3. Install:
• Radiator hose 2 "1"
• Left radiator "2"
4. Install:
• Radiator breather hose "1"
• Right radiator "2"
Refer to "CABLE ROUTING DIA-
GRAM" section in the CHAPTER
2.5. Install:
• Radiator guard "1"
First fit the inner hook portion "a" and
then the outer one "b" onto the radia-
tor.
6. Install:
• Bolt (radiator guard) "1"
Pipe 1:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Radiator hose 1:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Pipe 2:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Radiator hose 3:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Radiator hose 4:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Radiator hose 2:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Left radiator:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Right radiator:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (radiator guard) "1":
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)

4-10
CAMSHAFTS
REMOVING THE CAMSHAFT
1. Remove:
• Timing mark accessing screw "1"
• Crankshaft end accessing screw
"2"
2. Align:
• Alignment mark
Checking steps:
a. Turn the crankshaft counterclock-
wise with a wrench.
b. Align the alignment mark "a" on
the rotor with the alignment mark
"b" on the crankcase cover.
Make sure that the alignment mark
"c" on the exhaust camshaft sprocket
and the alignment mark "d" on the in-
take camshaft sprocket are aligned
with the edge of the cylinder head.
3. Remove:
• Timing chain tensioner cap bolt
"1"
• Timing chain tensioner "2"
• Gasket4. Remove:
• Bolt (camshaft cap) "1"
• Camshaft cap "2"
• Clip
Remove the bolts (camshaft cap) in a
crisscross pattern, working from the
outside in.
The bolts (camshaft cap) must be
removed evenly to prevent dam-
age to the cylinder head, cam-
shafts or camshaft caps.
5. Remove:
• Exhaust camshaft "1"
• Intake camshaft "2"
Attach a wire "3" to the timing chain to
prevent it from falling into the crank-
case.
CHECKING THE CAMSHAFT
1. Inspect:
• Cam lobe
Pitting/scratches/blue discolor-
ation → Replace.
2. Measure:
• Cam lobe length "a" and "b"
Out of specification → Replace.3. Measure:
• Runout (camshaft)
Out of specification → Replace.
Cam lobes length:
Intake "a":
37.750–37.850 mm
(1.4862–1.4902 in)
:
37.650 mm (1.4823 in)
Intake "b":
28.129–28.229 mm
(1.1074–1.1114 in)
:
28.029 mm (1.1035 in)
Exhaust "a":
33.540–33.640 mm
(1.3205–1.3244 in)
:
33.440 mm (1.3165 in)
Exhaust "b":
24.769–24.869 mm
(0.9752–0.9791 in)
:
24.669 mm (0.9712 in)
Runout (camshaft):
Less than 0.03 mm
(0.0012 in)