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4. Remove the jumper cable from the positive (+) terminal of the
disabled vehicle’s battery.
After the disabled vehicle has been started and the jumper cables
removed, allow it to idle for several minutes so the engine computer can
relearnits idle conditions.
WRECKER TOWING INSTRUCTIONS
Before moving the disabled vehicle, check for adequate road clearance of
vehicle components. It is recommended the disabled vehicle be unloaded
prior to being towed to reduce any abnormal load to the vehicle
components resulting from the towing procedures. Before towing, be sure to
fully release the parking brake. The spring-actuated type parking brake can
be reset by recharging the air system with at least 64 psi (441 kPa) of air. If
the brake system does not retain air pressure, then the spring brakes must
be released manually. Refer toParking brakein theDrivingchapter.
Note:For towing, make sure the vehicle is securely connected to the
tow vehicle and the tow vehicle’s parking brakes are applied before
releasing the disabled vehicle’s spring brakes.
WARNING:To reduce the risk of personal injury or property
damage when manually releasing the spring brakes, be sure to
block the wheels so the vehicle cannot move once the brakes are
released.
Towing the vehicle with the front wheels suspended
When it is necessary to tow a vehicle with the front wheels suspended, extra
precautions must be taken to avoid transmission or differential damage:
•Remove the axle shafts from the axle assembly to prevent the wheels
from driving the differential and the transmission.
•The wheel hub ends must be covered to prevent loss of axle lubricant
and entrance of other contaminants. If the axle shafts are not
removed, removal of the driveshaft is required.
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Note:To avoid transmission damage, vehicles should not be towed even
a short distance without suspending rear wheels or removing the axle
shafts or driveshaft.
Note:In the event the chassis is equipped with a tandem axle and the
vehicle is to be towed from the front, the forward rear axle may be
raised to clear the road surface and secured to the frame by chains or
U-bolts, allowing only the rear rear axle to contact the road surface. Axle
shafts must be removed from the rear rear axle assembly. The wheel hub
ends must be covered to prevent loss of axle lubricant and entrance of
contaminants. Use extreme care in securing the chains or U-bolts to
avoid possible damage to the brake lines, hoses or other components.
Towing vehicles equipped with a driver-controlled differential lock
Note:If the vehicle must be towed to a service facility with the drive
axle wheels on the ground, it is necessary to remove the axle shafts
before the vehicle is towed.
1. Shift collar in the locked position
2. Actuator assembly and shift fork
3. Axle shaft
4. Interference between the shift
collar and housing
5. Shift collar in the unlocked
position
6. Outer splines - axle shaft to collar
7. Shift collar and differential case
splines
8. Inner splines - axle shaft to side
gear
9. Side gear
10. Differential (plain) case half
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Removing axle shafts before towing
1. Shift the main differential to the unlocked (disengaged) position; the
differential lock light turns off.
2. Remove the capscrews and washers or stud nuts and washers from
flanges of both axle shafts.
3. Loosen the tapered dowels in the flanges of both axle shafts by
holding a 1
12inch diameter brass drift or hammer against the axle shaft
center and hitting it with a five or six pound hammer.Note:Do not use
a chisel or wedge to loosen the axle shafts and dowels. Use of a chisel or
wedge can damage the hub, axle shafts and oil seals.
4. Remove the tapered dowels and both axle shafts from the axle
assembly.
5. Assemble a cover over openings of both wheels ends to prevent loss of
lubricant and keep dirt away from the wheel bearing cavities.
Note:One of the axle shafts has two sets of splines. One set to engage
with the differential side gear and one set to engage with the shift collar
for the differential lock. It may be necessary to rotate the shaft slightly
to align the gear spline teeth with the shift collar teeth in order to
remove the axle shaft.
Installing the axle shafts
1. Remove the covers from the wheel ends.
2. Shift the differential lock to the unlocked (disengaged) position.
3. Install the axle shafts.
•Place the gaskets on the wheel hub studs.
•Push the right-hand axle shaft and gasket into the wheel end and
housing until the shaft stops against the differential shift collar.
•Push down and in on the axle shaft flange and rotate the shaft until
the splines of the shaft and shift collar are engaged.
•Push the axle shaft further into the housing until the shaft stops
against the differential side gear.
•Push down on the axle shaft flange and rotate the shaft until the
splines of the shaft and side gear are engaged.
•Push the axle shaft completely into the housing until the axle shaft
flange and the gasket are flush against the wheel hub.
•Install the left-hand axle shaft and gasket into the wheel end.
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4. If tapered dowels are required, install them at each stud and into the
flange of the axle shaft. Use a punch or drift and hammer, if needed.
5. Install the fasteners and tighten to correct torque value. Refer to the
Service Manual.
Towing the vehicle with the rear wheels suspended
Note:To avoid damage to the cab roof or air deflector when towing the
vehicle backward (rear wheels suspended) the air deflector must be
removed.
Whenever possible, it is preferable to tow a disabled vehicle from the
rear by raising the rear of the chassis. When towing a vehicle with the
rear of the chassis suspended, the front wheels must be locked in the
straight-ahead position.
Vehicles equipped with a manual transmission must have at least 1.0 pint
(0.5L) of transmission fluid drained from the case. This prevents the
transmission fluid from entering the clutch housing and fluid saturating
the clutch discs. Make sure that the transmission fluid is replaced before
the vehicle is returned to service.
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•Do not allow paint sealant to come in contact with any non-body
(low-gloss black) colored trim, such as grained door handles, roof
racks, bumpers, side moldings, mirror housings or the windshield cowl
area. The paint sealant will “gray” or stain the parts over time.
PAINT CHIPS
Your authorized dealer has touch-up paint to match your vehicle’s color.
Take your color code (printed on a sticker in the driver’s door jamb) to
your authorized dealer to ensure you get the correct color.
•Remove particles such as bird droppings, tree sap, insect deposits, tar
spots, road salt and industrial fallout before repairing paint chips.
•Always read the instructions before using the products.
ALUMINUM WHEELS AND WHEEL COVERS
Aluminum wheels and wheel covers are coated with a clear coat paint
finish. In order to maintain their shine:
•Clean weekly with MotorcraftWheel and Tire Cleaner, which is
available from your authorized dealer. Heavy dirt and brake dust
accumulation may require agitation with a sponge. Rinse thoroughly
with a strong stream of water.
•
Never apply any cleaning chemical to hot or warm wheel rims or covers.
•Some automatic car washes may cause damage to the finish on your
wheel rims or covers. Industrial-strength (heavy-duty) cleaners, or
cleaning chemicals, in combination with brush agitation to remove
brake dust and dirt, could wear away the clear coat finish over time.
•Do not use hydrofluoric acid-based or high caustic-based wheel
cleaners, steel wool, fuels or strong household detergent.
•To remove tar and grease, use MotorcraftBug and Tar Remover ,
available from your authorized dealer.
ENGINE
Engines are more efficient when they are clean because grease and dirt
buildup keep the engine warmer than normal. When washing:
•
Take care when using a power washer to clean the engine. The
high-pressure fluid could penetrate the sealed parts and cause damage.
Note:To prevent damage to the engine control module, never
spray-wash it directly. Never spray any connector.
•Do not spray a hot engine with cold water to avoid cracking the
engine block or other engine components.
Cleaning
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At regular intervals, or during other scheduled maintenance (tire
rotation/service, wheel bearing service, alignment, etc.), the kingpins
should be checked for excessive wear. Refer to the service manual for
proper procedures.
Toe-in setting - general inspection
Inspecting steer axle tires in the first 3,000–10,000 service miles
(5,000–16,000 service km) generally shows if tires are wearing normally.
Rapid outside shoulder wear on both tires indicates too much toe-in.
Rapid inside shoulder wear on both tires indicates too much toe-out. In
P&D-type service, left-to-right steer tire tread life differentials up to 40%
can be observed depending on routes and other variables.
Follow the tire manufacturer’s recommended cold inflation pressure for
the tire size, load range (ply rating) and steer axle loading typical for
their operation (each steer axle tire equals
12steer axle loading).
Special applications may warrant a setting based on experience with the
type of tire operating loads and conditions. Radial tires are more
sensitive to toe-in setting than bias ply tires. While not insensitive to
vehicle alignment, fine tuning school bus alignment to line-haul truck
standards does not drastically improve tire tread life.
It is essential that correct toe-in and tire pressure be maintained for
optimum tire wear.
Rear axle - general inspection
Make sure that the axle mounting U-bolts, attaching or mounting bolts
and nuts are securely tightened. Refer toU-bolt nut torquein this
chapter. Regularly check the rear axle for damaged, binding or worn
parts.
NoSpin Detroit Locker positive locking differential
Vehicles equipped with this type differential have the operator’s manual
supplied with the vehicle. Refer to this manual for maintenance checks.
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Periodic checking of push rod travel or brake adjustment is essential for
effective braking. Check push rod travel every service interval to determine
if adjustment is correct. Brake chamber push rods on original equipment
chambers now incorporate an orange paint marker near the base of the
push rod as a stroke indicator to aid in adjustment checks. If the push rod
is clean and the brakes are out of adjustment, the orange marker can be
seen protruding from the chamber when the brakes are applied.
WARNING:Do not manually adjust the automatic slack
adjusters to correct excessive push rod stroke as it may result in
reduced brake effectiveness and a vehicle crash. Excessive push rod
stroke indicates that a problem exists with the automatic adjuster, with
the installation of the adjuster, or with foundation brake components
that manual adjustment does not remedy. Seek service from a qualified
facility for excessive push rod stroke.
Inspect the brake lining every maintenance interval. When brake lining or
blocks are worn to within 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of rivets, replace the brake
linings. This inspection or adjustment should only be performed by a
qualified technician and must be in accordance with instructions
provided by the service manual.
Do not back off or disconnect the front brakes so that they are less
effective, letting the rear brakes do all the stopping of the vehicle. Do
not overlook the brakes on the trailer, either. Brake condition on the
trailer is just as important as the tractor. Proper brake balance on trucks
and tractor-trailers is essential for effective braking.
Once a year, the entire brake system must be inspected. Check the
following:
•Any rubber components for deterioration. These components should
be inspected by a qualified technician and replaced as necessary.
Replacement intervals vary according to the severity and length of
vehicle service.
•Condition of brake drums, brake chambers and slack adjusters.
•System for air leaks.
•Hose or pipes for rust, damage and deterioration.
•Operation of service and parking brakes.
Some parts such as air brake chamber diaphragm, air compressor and air
cleaner should be inspected periodically and replaced if considered
unserviceable.
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If evidence of corrosion is found (usually at the pipe connections), use a
wire brush to clean the inside of the pipes and inside the rubber hoses.
If the intake pipes are pitted at the joint ends, use MotorcraftSilicone
Gasket and Sealant TA-30 to seal the joints. Be certain that no excess
material is on the inside of the pipes that can be pulled into the engine.
If the service condition of the pipes, hoses or clamps is questionable,
replace the defective part(s).
Be sure that prior to reassembly all dust and debris has been cleaned out
of the pipes and couplings with a clean, damp rag.
WARNING:When performing maintenance to any turbocharged
engine with engine air inlet piping disconnected, keep loose
clothing, jewelry and long hair away from the engine air inlet piping. A
turbocharger compressor air inlet protective shield should be installed
over the turbocharger air inlet to reduce the risk of personal injury or
death.
Steering - general inspection
•Ask your service technician to examine the steering mechanism. Only
minor adjustments may be necessary.
•Check tie rod, drag link end clamp bolts and ball joints. They must be
tight.
•Check for installation and spread of cotter pins and tightness of nuts
at both ends of the tie rod and drag link.
•Check that pitman arm (steering arm at steering gear) mounting is
tight and locked. Check system for leaks or hose chafing. Repair at
once.
•Maintain proper steering gear and power steering pump lubricant
levels.
•Regularly inspect steering column joint bolts and steering linkage,
particularly for body-to-chassis clearance.
Note:Have any steering problems corrected at once by a qualified
service technician.
WARNING:Failure to maintain the steering system in proper
condition can cause reduced steering ability resulting in property
damage, personal injury or death.
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