2012 FORD F650 maintenance

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM INSPECTIONS
Periodically inspect electrical connectors on the outside of the cab, and
on the engine and frame for corrosion and tightness. Exposed terminals
such as the fuel sender, cranking motor, alternator and feed-through
studs should be cleaned and re-coated with a lubricant sealing grease
such as MotorcraftSilicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectic
Compound XG-3, or equivalent. This should include the ground cable
connector for batteries, engine and cab as well as the jump starting stud.
Accessory feed connections
Vehicle electrical systems are complex and often include powertrain
components such as engine and transmission controls, instrument panels,
ABS, etc. While most systems operate on battery voltage (12 volts),
some systems can be as high as 90 volts or as low as 5 volts. Refer to the
Electrical Circuit Diagram Manuals, available from your vehicle’s
manufacturer, to ensure that any additional body lights and accessories
are connected to circuits that are both appropriate and not overloaded.
No modification should be made to any vehicle control system without
first contacting your dealer.
SUSPENSION INSPECTION
Note:Do not adjust air suspension height to any setting other than the
specified setting. Altering the height setting changes the driveline angle
and may result in unwarrantable component damage, such as
transmission component damage.
Verify drive axle air suspension height and height control valve
performance at engine oil change intervals.
Periodically check:
•
Condition of spring leaves for evidence of fatigue, bending or breakage.
•Condition of suspension mounting brackets and bushings.
•Torque rod mounting fasteners for tightness.
•For proper suspension alignment; this must be maintained at all times.
•U-bolts after the chassis has been operating under load for 1,000 miles
(1,600 km) or six months (whichever comes first), the U-bolt nuts
must be re-torqued. The U-bolt nuts must be re-torqued every
36,000 miles (58,000 km) thereafter. The U-bolt and nut threads and
seats should be cleaned and lubricated to ensure a “like new”
condition when re-torquing.
Note:See theU-bolt nut torquechart later in this section.
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Supporting your vehicle for service
Prepare the vehicle for service repairs by doing the following:
1. Park the vehicle on a level concrete floor.
2. Set the parking brake and block the wheels to prevent the vehicle
from moving.
3. Select a jack with a rated capacity sufficient to lift and hold up the
vehicle.
4. Raise the vehicle with the jack applied to the axle(s). DO NOT use the
bumper as a lifting point.
5. Support the vehicle with floor stands under the axle(s). If the axle or
the suspension are being serviced, support the vehicle with floor stands
under the frame side-members, preferably between the axles.
WARNING:Do not use a jack when working under a vehicle. It
may give way, causing the vehicle to fall and result in property
damage, personal injury or death. Always use floor stands to support
the vehicle.
FRAME AND TOW HOOKS
Your vehicle’s chassis is manufactured with frame rails of either HSLA
steel or heat-treated steel; each must be handled in a specific manner to
ensure maximum service life. Consult the service manual or your dealer
before attempting frame repair or modification.
It is important, particularly on vehicles where the tow hooks are used
frequently, to inspect the front and rear tow hooks for damage or a loose
mounting.
SPRING U-BOLT CHECKS
Check U-bolt nuts and re-torque every 36,000 miles (58,000 km) after
initial 1,000 miles (1,600 km) re-torque. The U-bolt and nut threads and
seats should be cleaned and lubricated to ensure peak condition when
re-torqued.
U-bolt nut torque
Suspension ft-lb N•m
Front axle – 8500 lb (3856 kg) 180-200 244-271
Front axles – 10000 lb (4536 kg) and higher 260-300 353-407
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Suspension ft-lb N•m
Rear axle with multi-leaf 260-300 353-407
Rear axle with IROS air suspension 370-400 502-542
Rear axle with Hendrickson air suspension 400–450 542–610
See air suspension U-bolt re-torquing and installation information below.
Air suspension U-bolt checks and re-torquing procedures
1. Inspect the threads of the U-bolt and nut for rust and debris. Clean
the threads if contaminated.
2. Using a torque wrench, determine if any nuts can be turned with a
force below the specified torque.
3. Using the lowest discovered torqued nut as a starting point, retighten
the nuts using the sequence listed underAir suspension U-bolt and
U-bolt nut installation.
Air suspension U-bolt and U-bolt nut installation
1. Inspect the threads of the U-bolt and nut for rust and debris. Clean
the threads if contaminated.
2. Install the U-bolts and nuts and torque the nuts to seat the cap flat
which is about 18 ft-lb (25 N•m) using a diagonal pattern. Use the same
diagonal pattern for each of the following U-bolt nut re-torque steps.
3. Tighten U-bolt nuts in increments of 74 ft-lb (100 N•m) until
tightened to final torque for the particular suspension.
DRIVESHAFT
Check the universal joints for any evidence of wear or looseness at the
regular lubrication interval. Stop the vehicle immediately, should
driveshaft vibrations occur, to avoid possible hazardous consequences or
damage to other components.
REAR AXLE LUBRICANT
Refer to theScheduled Maintenance Guidechapter for rear axle
lubricant level check/change intervals.
Your rear axle may be filled with an optional synthetic lubricant which
allows the use of extended service intervals. A tag on the filler plug
identifies the use of the synthetic lubricant.
Only use a lubricant that meets manufacturer specifications; refer to
Lubricant specificationsin this chapter.Use of a non-approved rear
axle lubricant may cause internal axle component damage.
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Checking the rear axle lubricant level
1. Park the vehicle on level ground.
2. Set the parking brake and shift into N (Neutral) (automatic
transmission) or 1 (First) (manual transmission) and turn the engine off.
3. Clean any dirt from around the rear axle filler plug.
4. Remove the filler plug and inspect the lubricant level; it should be up
to the bottom of the filler plug opening.
5. Add lubricant, if necessary, through the filler plug opening.
6. Clean and install the filler plug securely.
Draining and refilling the rear axle lubricant
1. Drain the rear axle while the lubricant is warm.
2. Park the vehicle on level ground.
3. Set the parking brake and shift into N (Neutral) (automatic
transmission) or 1 (First) (manual transmission) and turn the engine off.
4. Clean any dirt from around the rear axle filler and drain plugs.
5. Remove the filler and drain plugs and drain the lubricant into a
suitable container. Dispose of all used automotive fluids in a responsible
manner following your local authorized standards.
6. Clean and install the drain plug securely.
7. Add lubricant through the filler plug opening.
8. Clean and install the filler plug securely.
WHEELS
General
Wheel bearings should be inspected, lubricated and adjusted at regular
intervals. This is especially important if operating in deep sand, mud or
water. Refer toLubricant specificationsin this chapter.
Mount wheel balance weights on the dome-side of the wheel only; failure
to do so may result in loss of wheel weight and/or damage to brakes or
wheels.
Important:Remember to replace the wheel air valves when the road
tires are replaced at the end of their useful life.
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Oil-lubricated front wheel bearings
During normal vehicle duty cycle, the lube and air inside the hub/wheel
cavity expands and, if not vented, causes pressure build-up that could
cause accelerated seal wear. There are two venting methods that can be
used to prevent pressure build-up:
•a slit or small hole in the rubber check vent or
•the window
Normal maintenance
Over a period of time, if not routinely cleaned, a slight film of oil can
collect dirt around the rubber fill plug and face, which could appear to
be a leak. Routine cleaning ensures that the lube level can be easily
observed through the clear window as intended. In situations where the
window is clean on the outside but discolored on the inside, the lube
level may be checked by inserting a finger through the rubber check
vent hole.
The specified lube level for a clear window type hubcaps is from the
minimum line to + 5/16 inch above the minimum line. If the lube level
should suddenly drop dramatically below the minimum level, see the
Workshop Manualfor diagnostic procedure.
Installation, tightening and alignment
Verify the threads on studs and nuts are clean to permit correct torque
when installing wheels. The mounting surfaces of rims, wheels, spacer
rings and clamps must be free of dirt, rust, lubricants or damage. Use a
wire brush to clean the mounting contact surfaces. Do not use lubricant
on threads.
Check the rim or wheel for proper alignment after it has been properly
tightened. Rotate the wheel with a piece of chalk attached to a steady,
firm surface, and placed to just barely clear the outside surface of the
tire bead seat; this procedure points out the high spot. A high spot does
not necessarily mean that the lug nuts have been unevenly tightened,
but could be the result of a bent wheel.
Use the following installation procedure:
1. Slide inner rear or front tire and wheel in position over studs and push
it back as far as possible. Use care so that the threads on studs are not
damaged.
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Disc wheel with flange nuts (hub-piloted)
Front wheel mounting of flange nut
system
1. Flange nut
2. Wheel(s)
3. Brake drum
4. Wheel stud (22 mm)
5. Wheel hub
2. Position the outer rear tire and wheel in place over the studs and
push it back as far as possible. Use care so that the threads on studs are
not damaged.
Rear wheel mounting of flange nut
system
1. Flange nut
2. Wheel(s)
3. Brake drum
4. Wheel stud (22 mm)
5. Wheel hub
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Aluminum rear disc wheel with flange nuts (hub-piloted)
1. Flange nut
2. Wheel(s)
3. Brake drum
4. Wheel stud (22 mm)
5. Wheel hub
6. Wheel locator pad
Note for aluminum wheels:Clean each wheel locator pad on the hub
from all dirt, rust and foreign material prior to re-installing rear
aluminum hub-piloted wheels. Apply a light coat of chassis grease,
never-seize or disc brake corrosion control grease, only to the wheel
locator pad.
3. Run the nuts on the studs until they contact the wheel(s). Rotate the
wheel assembly a half-turn to permit the parts to seat.
4. Draw-up the nuts alternately following the crisscross sequence
illustrated under the following wheel tightening sequence illustrations.
Do not fully tighten the nuts. This allows uniform seating of the nuts and
ensure even face-to-face contact of the wheel and hub.
1
6
5
4
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Wheel tightening sequence:
8–lug wheel
10–lug wheel
5. Continue tightening the nuts to the torque specifications in the torque
chart using the same crisscross sequence shown.
6. After operating the vehicle approximately 50 miles (80 km), check the
nuts for tightness; some natural seating of parts may be encountered and
the torque on the nuts will drop. Retighten all nuts to specifications.
Once a week, inspect and retighten the wheel stud nuts.
Note:Make sure the tire valve stem clears the brake caliper when
installing the tire and rim assembly on disc-brake equipped axles. The
use of a tire manufacturer’s stem forming tool is the only acceptable
method of obtaining clearance when necessary.
Proper torque
It is important to tighten and maintain wheel and rim mounting nuts to
the proper torque. Loose nuts or over-tightened nuts can lead to
premature wear and possible failure of the wheel and/or mounting
hardware.
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