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Driving downhill
Going downhill can be considerably
more dangerous than driving uphill.
When off-roading takes you downhill,
you’ll want to consider many of the
same things you thought about
before you went uphill. As a brief
reminder, those include:
How steep is the downhill? Will I beable to maintain vehicle control?
What’s the surface like? Smooth? Rough? Slippery? Hard-packed
dirt? Gravel?
Are there hidden surface obsta- cles? Ruts? Logs? Boulders?
What’s at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even
a river bottom with large rocks?
Have changes in the weather con- ditions and their effect on the ter-
rain since you went uphill made
your task more difficult? Once you have decided that you can
go down a hill safely, try to keep your
vehicle headed straight down, and
use a low gear. This way, engine
braking can help your brakes so they
won’t have to do all the work.
Descend slowly, keeping your vehi-
cle under control at all times.WARNING- Leaving vehi-
cle
If you are going to leave your
vehicle, set the parking brake
and shift a manual transaxle to
1(First), or an automatic
transaxle to P (Park).
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Avoid turns that take you across the
incline of the hill. A hill that’s not too
steep to drive down may be too
steep to drive across. You could roll
over if you don’t drive straight down.
Never go downhill with the clutch
pedal depressed. This is called “free-
wheeling.” Your brakes will have to do
all the work and could overheat and
fade. If your wheels lock up during down-
hill braking, you may feel the vehicle
starting to slide sideways. To regain
your direction, just ease off the
brakes and steer to keep the front of
the vehicle pointing straight downhill.CAUTION - Downhill
Before beginning to go down-
hill, it is critical that you ensurethat no cargo can shift forwardwhile you are heading downhill.Such shifting could eitherendanger you and your occu-pants, or interfere with yourability to control the vehicle.
WARNING- Braking
Heavy braking when going
down a hill can cause your
brakes to overheat and fade.
This could cause loss of control
and a serious accident. Apply
the brakes lightly when
descending a hill and use a low
gear to keep vehicle speed
under control.CAUTION - Wheel locking
Avoid braking so hard that you lock the wheels when goingdownhill. If your front wheelsare locked, you can’t steer yourvehicle.
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Stalling downhill
Stalling is much more likely to hap-
pen going uphill. But if it happens
going downhill, here’s what to do.
Stop your vehicle by applying thebrakes. Then apply the parking
brake.
Move the shift lever to P (Park) in automatic transaxle or shift to N
(Neutral) in manual transaxle and,
while still braking, restart the
engine.
Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake, and drive
straight down.
If the engine won’t start, get out and seek help. Exit on the uphill
side of the vehicle and stay clear of
the path the vehicle would take if it
rolled downhill.
Driving across an incline
Sooner or later, an off-road trail will
probably go across the incline of a
hill. If this happens, you have to
decide whether or not to try to drive
across the incline. Here are some
things to consider:
A hill that can be driven straight upor down may be too steep to drive
across. When you go straight up or
down a hill, the length of the wheel
base (the distance from the front
wheels to the rear wheels) reduces
the likelihood the vehicle will tum-
ble end over end. But when you
drive across an incline, the much
narrower track width (the distance
between the left and right wheels)
may not prevent the vehicle from
tilting and rolling over. Also, driving
across an incline puts more weight
on the downhill wheels. This could
cause a downhill slide or a rollover. Surface conditions can be a prob-
lem when you drive across a hill.
Loose gravel, muddy spots, or
even wet grass can cause your
tires to slip sideways. If the vehicle
slips sideways, it can hit something
that will tip it (a rock, a rut, etc.) and
cause it to roll over.
Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even
worse. If you drive across a rock
with the uphill wheels, or if the
downhill wheels drop into a rut or
depression, your vehicle can tilt
even more.
For reasons like these, you need to
decide carefully whether or not to try
to drive across an incline. Just
because the trail goes across the
incline doesn’t mean you have to
drive it.
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If your vehicle slides downhill
If you feel your vehicle starting to
slide sideways, turn downhill immedi-
ately. This should help straighten out
the vehicle and prevent the side slip-
ping. However, a much better way to
prevent this is to get out and “walk
the course” first so you know what
the surface is like before you drive it.
Stalling while crossing an incline
If your vehicle stalls when you’re
crossing an incline, be sure you (and
your passengers) get out on the
uphill side, even if that door is harder
to open. If you get out on the down-
hill side and the vehicle starts to roll
over, you’ll be in its path.
If you have to walk down the slope,
stay out of the path the vehicle will
take if it does roll over.WARNING- Roll over
Driving across an incline that’s
too steep will make your vehicle
roll over. You could be seriously
or fatally injured. If you have any
doubt about the steepness of
the incline, don’t drive across it.
Find another route instead.
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Driving in mud, sand, snow, or
ice
When you drive in mud, sand, snow,
or ice, your wheels won’t get good
traction. You can’t accelerate as
quickly, turning is more difficult, and
you’ll need longer braking distances.
It’s best to use a low gear when
you’re in mud, the deeper the mud,
the lower the gear. In extremely deep
mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle
moving so you don’t get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you’ll
sense a change in wheel traction.
But it will depend upon how loosely
packed the sand is. On loosely
packed sand (as on beaches or sand
dunes) your tires will tend to sink into
the sand. This has an effect on steer-
ing, accelerating, and braking. You
may want to reduce the air pressure
in your tires slightly when driving on
sand. This will improve traction.
Remember to re-inflate them the first
chance that you have after you leave
the loosely packed sand.
✽ ✽NOTICE
• In case of loss of traction in mud,
loose soil, or sand, turn the steer-
ing wheel rapidly from side-to-
side. This can help generate addi-
tional traction.
• Do not gun the engine. This will cause the tires to spin and dig
down, not forward, and could
bury the vehicle to the frame.
Smooth, easy power is better than
too much power.WARNING- Exiting vehi-
cle
Getting out on the downhill
(low) side of a vehicle stopped
across an incline is dangerous.
If the vehicle rolls over, you
could be crushed or fatally
injured. Always get out on the
uphill (high) side of the vehicle
and stay well clear of the
rollover path.
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Hard-packed snow and ice offer the
worst tire traction. On these surfaces,
it’s very easy to lose control. On wet
ice, for example, the traction is so
poor that you will even have difficulty
accelerating. And if you do get mov-
ing, poor steering and difficult brak-
ing can easily cause you to slide out
of control.Driving in water
Light rain causes no special off-road
driving problems. However, heavy
rain can cause flash flooding, and
flood waters demand extreme cau-
tion.
Find out how deep the water is
before you drive through it. If it’s
deep enough to cover your wheel
bearing hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe,
don’t try it, You probably won’t get
through. Also, water that deep can
damage your axle and other vehicle
parts.
If the water isn’t too deep, then drive
through slowly. At fast speeds, water
can splash on your ignition system
and your vehicle can stall. Stalling
can also occur if your tailpipe goes
underwater. As long as your tailpipe
is underwater, you will not be able to
start your engine. When you go
through water, remember that it may
take you longer to stop when your
brakes are wet. If you have driven through water that
was deep enough to cover your
wheel bearing hubs, it may be a
good idea to have an Authorized Kia
dealer or other competent service
center repack your front wheel bear-
ings and examine your rear-end fluid
for evidence of water.
WARNING- Frozen sur-
faces
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds
or rivers can be dangerous.
Underwater springs, currents
under the ice, or sudden thaws
can weaken the ice. Your vehicle
could fall through the ice and
you and your passengers could
drown. Drive your vehicle on
safe surfaces only.
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After off-road driving
Remove any brush or debris that has
collected on the underbody, chassis
or under the hood. These accumula-
tions can be a fire hazard.
After driving in mud or sand, clean
and check the brake linings.
Accumulation of mud or sand can
cause glazing and uneven braking.
Check the body structure, steering,
suspension, wheels, tires, and
exhaust system for damage. Also,
check the fuel lines and cooling sys-
tem for any leakage. Your vehicle will
also require more frequent service
due to off-road use.WARNING- Water
Driving through rushing water
can be dangerous. Deep water
can sweep your vehicle down-
stream and you and your pas-
sengers could drown. If it’s only
inches deep, it can still wash
away the ground from under
your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle.
Never drive through rushing
water.
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WEIGHT OF THE VEHICLE
This section will guide you in the
proper loading of your vehicle and/or
trailer, to keep your loaded vehicle
weight within its design rating capa-
bility, with or without a trailer.
Properly loading your vehicle will
provide maximum return of the vehi-
cle design performance. Before load-
ing your vehicle, familiarize yourself
with the following terms for determin-
ing your vehicle's weight ratings, with
or without a trailer, from the vehicle's
Specifications and the Vehicle
Certification Label:
Base curb weight
This is the weight of the vehicle
including a full tank of fuel and all
standard equipment. It does not
include passengers, cargo, or option-
al equipment.
Vehicle curb weight
This is the weight of your new vehicle
when you picked it up from your deal-
er plus any aftermarket equipment.
Cargo weight
This figure includes all weight added
to the Base Curb Weight, including
cargo and optional equipment. When
towing, trailer tongue load or king pin
weight also is part of the Cargo
Weight.
GAW (Gross axle weight)
This is the total weight placed on
each axle (front and rear) - including
vehicle curb weight and all payload.
GAWR (Gross axle weight rating)
This is the maximum allowable
weight that can be carried by a single
axle (front or rear). These numbers
are shown on the Vehicle
Certification Label. The total load on
each axle must never exceed its
GAWR.
GVW (Gross vehicle weight)
This is the Base Curb Weight plus
actual Cargo Weight plus passen-
gers.
GVWR (Gross vehicle weight
rating)
This is the maximum allowable weight
of the fully loaded vehicle (including
all options, equipment, passengers
and cargo). The GVWR is shown on
the Vehicle Certification Label located
on the driver's door pillar.