2010 GMC SIERRA steering

.Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill
to let opposing traffic know you are there.
.Use headlamps even during the day to make the
vehicle more visible to oncoming traffic.
{WARNING:
Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can
cause an accident. There could be a drop-off,
embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You
could be seriously injured or killed. As you near
the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.
If the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and you cannot
make it up the hill:
.Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and
keep it from rolling backwards and apply the
parking brake.
.If the engine is still running, shift the transmission
to R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and
slowly back down the hill in R (Reverse).
.If the engine has stopped running, you need to
restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the
parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to
P (Park) and restart the engine. Then, shift to
R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and slowly
back down the hill as straight as possible in
R (Reverse).
.While backing down the hill, put your left hand
on the steering wheel at the 12 o'clock position
so you can tell if the wheels are straight and can
maneuver as you back down. It is best to back
down the hill with the wheels straight rather than
in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too
far to the left or right will increase the possibility
of a rollover.
Things not to do if the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall,
when going up a hill:
.Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into
N (Neutral) to rev-up the engine and regain forward
momentum. This will not work. The vehicle can roll
backward very quickly and could go out of control.
.Never try to turn around if about to stall when
going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall
the vehicle, it is steep enough to cause it to roll
over. If you cannot make it up the hill, back straight
down the hill.
5-17

Stalling on an Incline
{WARNING:
Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle
stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the
vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed.
Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the
vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.
If the vehicle stalls when crossing an incline, be sure
you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side,
even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out
on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over,
you will be right in its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path
the vehicle will take if it does roll over.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels do
not get good traction. Acceleration is not as quick,
turning is more difficult, and braking distances
are longer. It is best to use a low gear when in mud
—the deeper
the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, keep
the vehicle moving so it does not get stuck.
When driving on sand, wheel traction changes. On
loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand
dunes, the tires will tend to sink into the sand. This
affects steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a
reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt
maneuvers.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On
wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will
have difficulty accelerating. And, if the vehicle does get
moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause it
to slide out of control.
{WARNING:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your
vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your
passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on
safe surfaces only.
5-21

Driving in Water
{WARNING:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown. If it is
only shallow water, it can still wash away the
ground from under your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive
through rushing water.
Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before driving through
it. Do not try it if it is deep enough to cover the wheel
hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe —you probably will not
get through. Deep water can damage the axle and
other vehicle parts. If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At
faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system
and the vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you
get the tailpipe under water. If the tailpipe is under
water, you will never be able to start the engine. When
going through water, remember that when the brakes
get wet, it might take longer to stop. See
Driving in Rain
and on Wet Roads on page 5‑23.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system
for damage and check the fuel lines and cooling system
for any leakage.
The vehicle requires more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.
5-22

Winter Driving
Driving on Snow or Ice
Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the
tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice
can occur at about 0°C (32°F) when freezing rain
begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid
driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be
treated with salt or sand.
Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate
gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly
causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under
the tires slick, so there is even less traction.
Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too
fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface
under the tires even more.
TheStabiliTrak
®Systemon page 5‑6improves the
ability to accelerate on slippery roads, but slow down
and adjust your driving to the road conditions. When
driving through deep snow, turn off the traction control
part of the StabiliTrak
®System to help maintain vehicle
motion at lower speeds.
The Antilock Brake System (ABS)
on page 5‑4improves vehicle stability during hard stops on slippery
roads, but apply the brakes sooner than when on
dry pavement. Allow greater following distance on any slippery road
and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on
otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface
of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the
surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering
maneuvers and braking while on ice.
Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces.
Blizzard Conditions
Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay
with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible,
use the
Roadside Assistance Program
on page 8‑7.
To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe:
.Turn on the Hazard Warning Flasherson
page 4‑3.
.Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.
{WARNING:
Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle.
This may cause exhaust gases to get inside.
Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO)
which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause
unconsciousness and even death.
(Continued)
5-26

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 5‑28.
If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help
to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle's traction
system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction
system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off
and use the rocking method.
{WARNING:
If the vehicle's tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured.
The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine
compartment fire or other damage. Spin the
wheels as little as possible and avoid going above
55 km/h (35 mph) as shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle,
see Tire Chains on page 6‑89.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the
area around the front wheels. For four-wheel-drive
vehicles, shift into Four‐Wheel High. For vehicles with
StabiliTrak
®, turn the traction control part of the system
off. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a
forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible.
To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop
spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator
pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning
the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes
a rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does
not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need
to be towed out. Recovery hooks can be used, if the
vehicle has them. If the vehicle does need to be towed
out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 5‑43.
5-28

Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Use the following procedure to dinghy tow a
four-wheel-drive vehicle:1. Position the vehicle being towed behind the tow vehicle and shift the transmission to P (Park).
2. Turn the engine off and firmly set the parking brake.
3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow vehicle.
{WARNING:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle's transfer case
into N (Neutral) can cause the vehicle to roll even
if the transmission is in P (Park). The driver or
others could be injured. Make sure the parking
brake is firmly set before the transfer case is
shifted to N (Neutral).
4. Shift the transfer case to N (Neutral). See “Shifting
into Neutral” underFour-Wheel Drive
on
page 3‑36for the proper procedure to select the
Neutral position for the vehicle.
5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the towing
vehicle.
6. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF and remove the key —the steering wheel will still turn.
After towing, see “Shifting Out of Neutral” under
Four-Wheel Drive
on page 3‑36for the proper
procedure to take the vehicle out of the Neutral position.
5-45

Trailer Brake Control Panel
A. Manual Trailer Brake Apply Lever
B. Trailer Gain Adjustment Buttons
The ITBC system has a control panel located on the
instrument panel to the left of the steering column. See
Instrument Panel (Base/Uplevel Version)
on page 1‑2or Instrument Panel (Premium Version)on page 1‑4.
The control panel allows adjustment to the amount of
output, referred to as trailer gain, available to the
electric trailer brakes and allows manual application of the trailer brakes. The Trailer Brake Control Panel is
used along with the Trailer Brake Display Page on the
DIC to adjust and display power output to the trailer
brakes.
Trailer Brake DIC Display Page
The ITBC system displays messages into the vehicle’s
Driver Information Center (DIC). See
DIC Warnings and
Messages
on page 4‑65for more information.
The display page indicates Trailer Gain setting, power
output to the electric trailer brakes, trailer connection
and system operational status.
The Trailer Brake Display Page can be displayed by
performing any of the following actions:
.Scrolling through the DIC menu pages using the
odometer trip stem or the DIC Vehicle Information
button (if equipped).
.Pressing a Trailer Gain button –If the Trailer Brake
Display Page is not currently displayed, pressing a
Trailer Gain button will first recall the current Trailer
Gain setting. After the Trailer Brake Display Page
is displayed, each press and release of the gain
buttons will then cause the Trailer Gain setting
to change.
.Activating the Manual Trailer Brake Apply lever
.Connecting a trailer equipped with electric trailer
brakes
5-66

WARNING: (Continued)
To maximize safety when towing a trailer:
.Have the exhaust system inspected for leaks
and make necessary repairs before starting
a trip.
.Never drive with the liftgate, trunk/hatch,
or rear-most window open.
.Fully open the air outlets on or under the
instrument panel.
.Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting
that brings in only outside air and set the fan
speed to the highest setting. See Climate
Control System in the Index.
For more information about carbon monoxide, see
Engine Exhaust on page 3‑54.
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. The combination you are driving is longer
and not as responsive as the vehicle itself. Get
acquainted with the handling and braking of the rig
before setting out for the open road. Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors,
lamps, tires and mirrors. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start the combination moving and then apply the
trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the
brakes work.
During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure and the lamps and any trailer brakes
still work.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer.
This can help to avoid heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer.
The combination will not accelerate as quickly and is
longer so it is necessary to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before returning to the lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
To move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left.
To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the
right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have
someone guide you.
5-71