2009 PONTIAC G6 tow

Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total gross weight
of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo
carried in it, and the people who will be riding in the
vehicle. If there are a lot of options, equipment,
passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the
tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also
reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. If towing a
trailer, the tongue load must be added to the GVW
because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See
Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20for more information
about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity.Using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A)
should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer
weight (B).
After loading the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the
tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper.
If they are not, adjustments might be made by moving
some items around in the trailer.
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Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper limit
for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the
Certication/Tire label. SeeLoading the Vehicle on
page 4-20. Make sure not to go over the GVW limit for
the vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It is important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why the right hitch is needed. Here
are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended
for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted
hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
Will any holes be made in the body of the vehicle
when the trailer hitch is installed? If there are, then
be sure to seal the holes later when the hitch is
removed. If the holes are not sealed, dirt, water, and
deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from the exhaust can
get into the vehicle. SeeEngine Exhaust on
page 2-35in the Index for more information.
Safety Chains
Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer.
Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to
help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it
becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about
safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s
recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not
attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough
slack so the rig can turn. Never allow safety chains to
drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
Because the vehicle has antilock brakes, do not try to
tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you
do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all.
Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read
and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you will
be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road.
Get acquainted with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind
that the vehicle you are driving is now longer and not as
responsive as the vehicle is by itself.
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Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustments. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the
brakes are working. This checks the electrical connection
at the same time.
During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This
can help to avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer.
Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much
farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to
the lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on the instrument panel ash whenever
signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lamps also ash, telling other drivers the vehicle is
turning, changing lanes or stopping.
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When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel
ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned
out. For this reason you may think other drivers are
seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to
check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still
working.
Driving on Grades
Notice:Do not tow on steep continuous grades
exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher
than normal engine and transmission temperatures
may result and damage the vehicle. Frequent
stops are very important to allow the engine and
transmission to cool.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforestarting
down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is
not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so
much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce the
vehicle’s speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce
the possibility of the engine and the transmission
overheating. If the engine does overheat, seeEngine
Overheating on page 5-37.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached
can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig
could start to move. People can be injured, and
both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
When possible, always park the rig on a at
surface.
If parking the rig on a hill:
1. Press the brake pedal, but do not shift into P (Park)
yet. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill
or into traffic if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
brake pedal until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the brake pedal. Then apply the parking
brake and shift the transmission into P (Park).
5. Release the brake pedal.
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Leaving After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply and hold the brake pedal while you:
start the engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
The vehicle needs service more often when pulling a
trailer. SeeScheduled Maintenance on page 6-4for more
information. Things that are especially important in traileroperation are automatic transmission uid, engine oil,
belts, cooling system and brake system. It is a good
idea to inspect these before and during the trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
The cooling system may temporarily overheat during
severe operating conditions. SeeEngine Overheating on
page 5-37.
Changing a Tire When Trailer Towing
If the vehicle gets a at tire while towing a trailer,
be sure to secure the trailer and disconnect it from the
vehicle before changing the tire.
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Gasoline Octane
If the vehicle has the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code B),
the 3.5L V6 engine (VIN Code K), the 3.5L V6 engine
(VIN Code N), or the 3.9L V6 engine (VIN Code 1), use
regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of
87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you
might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive,
commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a
gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible.
If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and
you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.
If the vehicle has the 3.6L V6 engine (VIN Code 7), use
regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of
87 or higher. For best performance or trailer towing, you
could choose to use middle grade 89 octane unleaded
gasoline. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might
notice an audible knocking noise when you drive,
commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a
gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible.
If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and
you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.
Gasoline Specications
At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specication
D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511
in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing
additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese
tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of
gasolines containing MMT. SeeAdditives on page 5-8
for additional information.
California Fuel
If the vehicle is certied to meet California Emissions
Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet
California specications. See the underhood emission
control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting
California emissions standards, the vehicle will operate
satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specications, but
emission control system performance might be affected.
The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and the
vehicle might fail a smog-check test. SeeMalfunction
Indicator Lamp on page 3-38. If this occurs, return to your
authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined
that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used,
repairs might not be covered by the vehicle warranty.
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A.Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (3.5 L V6 Engine) on
page 5-26orEngine Air Cleaner/Filter (All Other
Engines) on page 5-27.
B. Engine Coolant Bleed Valve.
C.Power Steering Fluid on page 5-39.
D. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (Out of View).
See “Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid (2.4L L4, 3.5L and 3.6L V6
Engines) on page 5-29orAutomatic Transmission
Fluid (3.9L Engine) on page 5-29.
E. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-21.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-21.
G. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. SeeEngine Coolant on
page 5-33.
H. Pressure Cap. SeeCooling System on page 5-32.
I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake
Fluid” underBrakes on page 5-42.
J.Battery on page 5-45.
K. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-40.
L.Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-112.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or
cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down and check the level.
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Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare the vehicle as follows:
1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in P (Park).
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear, pausing for about three
seconds in each one. Then, position the shift lever
in P (Park).
4. Let the engine run at idle for three to ve minutes.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
1. The transmission uid
dipstick handle has
this symbol on it, and
is located near the
rear of the engine
compartment.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-14for
more information on location.2. Remove the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or
paper towel.
3. Reinstall it back in all the way, wait three seconds,
and then pull it back out again.
4. Check both sides of the dipstick and read the lower
level. The uid level must be within the
crosshatched area.
5. If the uid level is in the acceptable range, reinstall
the dipstick back in all the way.
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