2009 INFINITI QX56 light

SERVICE INFORMATION FOR ELECTRICAL INCIDENTGI-43
< BASIC INSPECTION >
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• When inspecting a ground connection follow these rules:
- Remove the ground bolt or screw.
- Inspect all mating surfaces for tarnish, dirt, rust, etc.
- Clean as required to assure good contact.
- Reinstall bolt or screw securely.
- Inspect for “add-on” accessories which may be interfering with the ground circuit.
- If several wires are crimped into one ground eyelet terminal, check for proper crimps. Make sure all of the wires are clean, securely fastened and providing a good ground path. If multiple wires are cased in one eye-
let make sure no ground wires have excess wire insulation.
• For detailed ground distribution information, refer to “Ground Distribution” in PG section.
VOLTAGE DROP TESTS
• Voltage drop tests are often used to find components or circuits which have excessive resistance. A voltage drop in a circuit is caused by a resistance when the circuit is in operation.
• Check the wire in the illustration. When measuring re sistance with DMM, contact by a single strand of wire
will give reading of 0 ohms. This would indicate a good circuit. When the circuit operates, this single strand
of wire is not able to carry the current. The single strand will have a high resistance to the current. This will
be picked up as a slight voltage drop.
• Unwanted resistance can be caused by many situations as follows:
- Undersized wiring (single strand example)
- Corrosion on switch contacts
- Loose wire connections or splices.
• If repairs are needed always use wire that is of the same or larger gauge.
Measuring Voltage Drop — Accumulated Method
• Connect the DMM across the connector or part of the ci rcuit you want to check. The positive lead of the
DMM should be closer to power and the negative lead closer to ground.
• Operate the circuit.
• The DMM will indicate how many volts are being used to “push” current through that part of the circuit.
SGI853
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GI-44
< BASIC INSPECTION >
SERVICE INFORMATION FOR ELECTRICAL INCIDENT
Note in the illustration that there is an excessive 4.1 volt drop between the battery and the bulb.
Measuring Voltage Drop — Steb-by-Step
• The step-by-step method is most useful for isolating excessive drops in low voltage systems (such as those
in “Computer Controlled Systems”).
• Circuits in the “Computer Controlled System” operate on very low amperage.
• The (Computer Controlled) system oper ations can be adversely affected by any variation in resistance in the
system. Such resistance variation may be caused by poor connection, improper installation, improper wire
gauge or corrosion.
• The step by step voltage drop test can identify a component or wire with too much resistance.
CONTROL UNIT CIRCUIT TEST
System Description
• When the switch is ON, the control unit lights up the lamp.
CASE 1
SGI974
SAIA0258E
MGI034A
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GW-2
< SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS >
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
Work FlowINFOID:0000000005867456
CUSTOMER INTERVIEW
Interview the customer if possible, to determine the conditions that exist when the noise occurs. Use the Diag-
nostic Worksheet during the interview to document the facts and conditions when the noise occurs and any
customer's comments; refer to GW-6, "
Diagnostic Worksheet". This information is necessary to duplicate the
conditions that exist when the noise occurs.
• The customer may not be able to provide a detailed description or the location of the noise. Attempt to obtain
all the facts and conditions that exist w hen the noise occurs (or does not occur).
• If there is more than one noise in the vehicle, be sure to diagnose and repair the noise that the customer is
concerned about. This can be accomplished by test driving the vehicle with the customer.
• After identifying the type of noise, isolate the noise in terms of its characteristics. The noise characteristics
are provided so the customer, service adviser and technician are all speaking the same language when
defining the noise.
• Squeak —(Like tennis shoes on a clean floor) Squeak characteristics include the light contact/fast movement/brought on by road conditions/hard surfaces
= higher pitch noise/softer surfaces = lower pitch noises/edge to surface = chirping.
• Creak—(Like walking on an old wooden floor) Creak characteristics include firm contact/slow mo vement/twisting with a rotational movement/pitch depen-
dent on materials/often brought on by activity.
• Rattle—(Like shaking a baby rattle) Rattle characteristics include the fast repeated contac t/vibration or similar movement/loose parts/missing
clip or fastener/incorrect clearance.
• Knock —(Like a knock on a door) Knock characteristics include hollow sounding/someti mes repeating/often brought on by driver action.
• Tick—(Like a clock second hand) Tick characteristics include gentle contacting of light materials/loose components/can be caused by driver
action or road conditions.
• Thump—(Heavy, muffled knock noise)
Thump characteristics include softer k nock/dead sound often brought on by activity.
• Buzz—(Like a bumble bee) Buzz characteristics include hi gh frequency rattle/firm contact.
• Often the degree of acceptable noise level will vary depending upon the person. A noise that you may judge as acceptable may be very irritating to the customer.
• Weather conditions, especially humidity and temperat ure, may have a great effect on noise level.
DUPLICATE THE NOISE AND TEST DRIVE
SBT842
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If possible, drive the vehicle with the customer until the noise is duplicated. Note any additional information on
the Diagnostic Worksheet regarding the conditions or lo cation of the noise. This information can be used to
duplicate the same conditions when you confirm the repair.
If the noise can be duplicated easily during the test drive, to help identify the source of the noise, try to dupli-
cate the noise with the vehicle stopped by doing one or all of the following:
1) Close a door.
2) Tap or push/pull around the area where the noise appears to be coming from.
3) Rev the engine.
4) Use a floor jack to recreate vehicle “twist”.
5) At idle, apply engine load (electrical load, half- clutch on M/T model, drive position on A/T model).
6) Raise the vehicle on a hoist and hit a tire with a rubber hammer.
• Drive the vehicle and attempt to duplicate the conditions the customer states exist when the noise occurs.
• If it is difficult to duplicate the noise, drive the vehicle slowly on an undulating or rough road to stress the vehicle body.
CHECK RELATED SERVICE BULLETINS
After verifying the customer concern or symptom, check ASIST for Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) related
to that concern or symptom.
If a TSB relates to the symptom, follow the procedure to repair the noise.
LOCATE THE NOISE AND IDENTIFY THE ROOT CAUSE
1. Narrow down the noise to a general area.To help pinpoint the source of the noise, use a listening tool (Chassis Ear: J-39570, Engine Ear: J-39565 and mechanic's stethoscope).
2. Narrow down the noise to a more specific area and identify the cause of the noise by:
• removing the components in the area that you suspect the noise is coming from. Do not use too much force when removing clips and fasteners, otherwise clips and fasteners can be broken
or lost during the repair, resulting in the creation of new noise.
• tapping or pushing/pulling the component that you suspect is causing the noise.
Do not tap or push/pull the component with excessive force, otherwise the noise will be eliminated only tem-
porarily.
• feeling for a vibration with your hand by touching the component(s) that you suspect is (are) causing the
noise.
• placing a piece of paper between components that you suspect are causing the noise.
• looking for loose components and contact marks. Refer to GW-4, "
Generic Squeak and Rattle Troubleshooting".
REPAIR THE CAUSE
• If the cause is a loose component, tighten the component securely.
• If the cause is insufficient clearance between components:
- separate components by repositioning or loos ening and retightening the component, if possible.
- insulate components with a suitable insulator such as urethane pads, foam blocks, felt cloth tape or urethane tape. A NISSAN Squeak and Rattle Kit (J-43980) is available through your authorized NISSAN Parts Depart-
ment.
CAUTION:
Do not use excessive force as many components are constructed of plastic and may be damaged.
Always check with the Parts Department for the latest parts information.
The following materials are contained in the NISSAN Squeak and Rattle Kit (J-43980). Each item can be
ordered separately as needed.
URETHANE PADS [1.5 mm (0.059 in) thick]
Insulates connectors, harness, etc.
76268-9E005: 100 ×135 mm (3.94 ×5.31 in)/76884-71L01: 60 ×85 mm (2.36× 3.35 in)/76884-71L02: 15× 25
mm (0.59 ×0.98 in)
INSULATOR (Foam blocks)
Insulates components from contact. Can be used to fill space behind a panel.
73982-9E000: 45 mm (1.77 in) thick, 50× 50 mm (1.97×1.97 in)/73982-50Y00: 10 mm (0.39 in) thick,
50× 50 mm (1.97 ×1.97 in)
INSULATOR (Light foam block)
80845-71L00: 30 mm (1.18 in) thick, 30 ×50 mm (1.18 ×1.97 in)
FELT CLOTH TAPE
Used to insulate where movement does not occu r. Ideal for instrument panel applications.
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GW-4
< SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS >
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
68370-4B000: 15×25 mm (0.59× 0.98 in) pad/68239-13E00: 5 mm (0.20 in ) wide tape roll. The following
materials not found in the kit can also be used to repair squeaks and rattles.
UHMW (TEFLON) TAPE
Insulates where slight movement is present. Ideal for inst rument panel applications.
SILICONE GREASE
Used instead of UHMW tape that will be visible or not fit.
Note: Will only last a few months.
SILICONE SPRAY
Use when grease cannot be applied.
DUCT TAPE
Use to eliminate movement.
CONFIRM THE REPAIR
Confirm that the cause of a noise is repaired by test driving the vehicle. Operate the vehicle under the same
conditions as when the noise originally occurred. Refer to the notes on the Diagnostic Worksheet.
Generic Squeak and Rattle TroubleshootingINFOID:0000000005867457
Refer to Table of Contents for specific component removal and installation information.
INSTRUMENT PANEL
Most incidents are caused by contact and movement between:
1. The cluster lid A and instrument panel
2. Acrylic lens and combination meter housing
3. Instrument panel to front pillar garnish
4. Instrument panel to windshield
5. Instrument panel mounting pins
6. Wiring harnesses behind the combination meter
7. A/C defroster duct and duct joint
These incidents can usually be located by tapping or moving the components to duplicate the noise or by
pressing on the components while driving to stop the noise. Most of these incidents can be repaired by apply-
ing felt cloth tape or silicone spray (in hard to reach areas). Urethane pads can be used to insulate wiring har-
ness.
CAUTION:
Do not use silicone spray to isolate a squeak or rattle. If you saturate the ar ea with silicone, you will
not be able to recheck the repair.
CENTER CONSOLE
Components to pay attention to include:
1. Shifter assembly cover to finisher
2. A/C control unit and cluster lid C
3. Wiring harnesses behind audio and A/C control unit
The instrument panel repair and isolation pr ocedures also apply to the center console.
DOORS
Pay attention to the:
1. Finisher and inner panel making a slapping noise
2. Inside handle escutcheon to door finisher
3. Wiring harnesses tapping
4. Door striker out of alignment causing a popping noise on starts and stops
Tapping or moving the components or pressing on them wh ile driving to duplicate the conditions can isolate
many of these incidents. You can usually insulate the areas with felt cloth tape or insulator foam blocks from
the NISSAN Squeak and Rattle Kit (J-43980) to repair the noise.
TRUNK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid bumpers out of adjustment
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2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. The trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, se curing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sun visor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headliner and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
OVERHEAD CONSOLE (FRONT AND REAR)
Overhead console noises are often caused by the cons ole panel clips not being engaged correctly. Most of
these incidents are repaired by pushing up on the c onsole at the clip locations until the clips engage.
In addition look for:
1. Loose harness or harness connectors.
2. Front console map/reading lamp lense loose.
3. Loose screws at console attachment points.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. The rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of thes e incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.
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GW-16
< ON-VEHICLE REPAIR >
FRONT DOOR GLASS AND REGULATOR
NOTE:
If any of the following work has been done, reset the power window motor limit switch.
• Removal and installation of the regulator assembly.
• Removal and installation of the power window motor from the regulator.
• Installation of a new glass window.
• Installation of a new glass run.
Check the label on the power window motor for the part number. If the power window motor part number
matches one of the following, the motor must be removed from the regulator and the limit switch reset using
the “INSTALLATION WITHOUT RESET SWITCH” procedure in “FRONT DOOR GLASS REGULATOR
ASSEMBLY”.
• 80730-ZT01A
• 80731-ZT01A
• 80730-ZM70B
• 80731-ZM70B
If the power window motor part number does not match one of the part numbers above, the limit switch can be
reset in the vehicle using the “INSTA LLATION WITH RESET SWITCH” procedure.
NOTE:
• The label can be checked with the power window motor in the vehicle by using a mirror.
• Some of the power window motors with the part num bers above may appear to have a reset switch, but it will
not reset the limit switch.
Fitting Inspection
• Check that the glass is securely fit into the glass run groove.
• Lower the glass slightly [approximately 10 to 20 mm (0 .39 to 0.79 in)] and check that the clearance to the
sash is parallel. If the clearance between the glass and sash is not parallel, loosen the regulator bolts, guide
rail bolts, and glass and guide rail bolts to correct the glass position.
FRONT DOOR GLASS REGULATOR
Removal
1. Remove the front door finisher. Refer to INT-11, "Removal and Installation".
2. Position the aside the vapor barrier.
3. Remove the hole cover over rear glass bolt.
4. Temporarily reconnect the power window switch.
5. Operate the power window main switch to raise/ lower the door window until the glass bolts can be seen.
6. Remove the glass bolts.
7. Raise the front door glass and hold it in place with suitable tool.
8. Disconnect the harness connector fr om the regulator assembly.
9. Remove the bolts and the regulator assembly.
Disassembly And Assembly
Remove the regulator motor from the regulator assembly.
Inspection After Removal
Check the regulator assembly for the following items. If a malfunc-
tion is detected, replace or grease it.
• Wire wear
• Regulator deformation
• Grease condition for each sliding part
The arrows in the figure show the application points of the body
grease.
SETTING AFTER INSTALLATION
Installation
If any of the following work has been done, reset the power window motor limit switch.
• Removal and installation of the regulator assembly.
LIIA0670E
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REAR DOOR GLASS AND REGULATORGW-19
< ON-VEHICLE REPAIR >
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REAR DOOR GLASS AND REGULATOR
Removal and InstallationINFOID:0000000003775957
REAR DOOR GLASS
Removal
1. Remove the rear door finisher. Refer to INT-11, "Removal and Installation".
2. Position the vapor barrier aside.
3. Temporarily reconnect the power window switch.
4. Operate the power window switch to raise/lower the door win- dow until the glass bolts can be seen.
5. Remove the glass run from the partition glass.
6. Remove the partition sash bolt (lower) and screw (upper) to remove the sash.
7. Remove the glass bolts and glass.
Installation
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.
Fitting Inspection
• Check that the glass is securely fit into the glass run groove.
• Lower the glass slightly [approximately 10 to 20 mm (0 .39 to 0.79 in)], and check that the clearance to the
sash is parallel. If the clearance between the glass and sash is not parallel, loosen the regulator bolts, guide
rail bolts, and glass and carrier plate bolts to correct the glass position.
REAR DOOR GLASS REGULATOR
WIIA0942E
SIIA0290E
Glass bolts : 6.1 N·m (0.62 kg-m, 54 in-lb)
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