Antilock Brake System (ABS)
This vehicle has the Antilock Brake System (ABS), an
advanced electronic braking system that helps prevent a
braking skid.
When the engine is started and the vehicle begins to
drive away, ABS checks itself. A momentary motor
or clicking noise might be heard while this test is going
on. This is normal.
If there is a problem with
the ABS, this warning light
stays on. SeeAntilock
Brake System (ABS)
Warning Light on
page 3-38.Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely.
Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam
on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what
happens with ABS:
A computer senses that the wheels are slowing down.
If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer
will separately work the brakes at each front wheel
and at both rear wheels.
ABS can change the brake pressure to each wheel, as
required, faster than any driver could. This can help
the driver steer around the obstacle while braking hard.
As the brakes are applied, the computer keeps
receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking
pressure accordingly.
Remember: ABS does not change the time needed to get
a foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping
distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you,
there will not be enough time to apply the brakes if that
vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough
room up ahead to stop, even with ABS.
4-5
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving
those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to the vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are
not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much
speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
If the vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
the vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for
a second skid if it occurs.Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, slow
down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is
important to slow down on slippery surfaces because
stopping distance is longer and vehicle control more
limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or
braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a
lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to
slide. You might not realize the surface is slippery until
the vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues —such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on
the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down
when you have any doubt.
Remember: Any Antilock Brake System (ABS) helps
avoid only the braking skid.
4-14
Surface Obstacles:Unseen or hidden obstacles can
be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut, or bump can startle
you if you are not prepared for them. Often these
obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow, or even
the rise and fall of the terrain itself.
Some things to consider:
Is the path ahead clear?
Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead?
Does the travel take you uphill or downhill?
Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction
quickly?
When driving over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a rm
grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs, or other surface
features can jerk the wheel out of your hands.
When driving over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, the
wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with
one or two wheels, you cannot control the vehicle as well
or at all.
Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it is
especially important to avoid sudden acceleration,
sudden turns, or sudden braking.
Off-roading requires a different kind of alertness from
driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road
signs, posted speed limits, or signal lights. Use good
judgment about what is safe and what is not.
Crossing Obstacles
Approach Angle — a Key to Mobility
If you encounter a large dip in the terrain, do not
enter straight on; enter at an angle — 15° minimum
approach (A), 75° maximum approach angle (B). For
very large dips, ditches or small washes, coast in, using
the engine as a brake (transmission and transfer case
lowest gears). Then, use the low ranges in the
transmission and transfer case to power out.
4-23
{CAUTION:
Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can
cause an accident. There could be a drop-off,
embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You
could be seriously injured or killed. As you near
the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.
If the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and you cannot
make it up the hill:
Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep
it from rolling backwards and apply the parking
brake.
If the engine is still running, shift the transmission to
R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and slowly
back down the hill in R (Reverse).
If the engine has stopped running, you need to
restart it. With the brake pedal pressed, apply
the parking brake. If the vehicle has an automatic
transmission, shift the transmission to P (Park).
Restart the engine. Then, shift to R (Reverse),
release the parking brake, and slowly back down
the hill as straight as possible in R (Reverse).
While backing down the hill, put your left hand on the
steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position so you can
tell if the wheels are straight and can maneuver as
you back down. It is best to back down the hill with
the wheels straight rather than in the left or right
direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right
will increase the possibility of a rollover.
4-27
Driving Downhill
When off-roading takes you downhill, consider:
How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain
vehicle control?
What is the surface like? Smooth? Rough?
Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?
Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs?
Boulders?
What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden
creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?
If you decide you can go down a hill safely, try to keep
the vehicle headed straight down. Use a low gear
so engine drag can help the brakes so they do not have
to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping the
vehicle under control at all times.
{CAUTION:
Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause
your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause
loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the
brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low
gear to keep vehicle speed under control.Things not to do when driving down a hill:
When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you
across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too
steep to drive down might be too steep to drive
across. The vehicle could roll over.
Never go downhill with the transmission in
N (Neutral), called free-wheeling. The brakes will
have to do all the work and could overheat
and fade.
Vehicles are much more likely to stall when going uphill,
but if it happens when going downhill:
1. Stop the vehicle by applying the regular brakes and
apply the parking brake.
2. Shift to P (Park). While still braking, restart the
engine.
3. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake,
and drive straight down.
4. If the engine will not start, get out and get help.
4-29
Stalling on an Incline
{CAUTION:
Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle
stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the
vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed.
Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the
vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.
If the vehicle stalls when crossing an incline, be sure
you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even
if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the
downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will
be right in its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path
the vehicle will take if it does roll over.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels do not
get good traction. Acceleration is not as quick, turning is
more difficult, and braking distances are longer.
It is best to use a low gear when in mud — the deeper
the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
keep the vehicle moving so it does not get stuck.When driving on sand, wheel traction changes. On
loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand
dunes, the tires will tend to sink into the sand. This
affects steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive
at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt
maneuvers.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you
will have difficulty accelerating. And, if the vehicle
does get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can
cause it to slide out of control.
{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your
vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your
passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on
safe surfaces only.
4-31
Driving in Water
{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown. If it is
only shallow water, it can still wash away the
ground from under your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive
through rushing water.
Heavy rain can mean ash ooding, and ood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before driving through
it. Do not try it if it is deep enough to cover the wheel
hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe — you probably will not
get through. Deep water can damage the axle and
other vehicle parts. The vehicle is capable of depths up to
20 inches (50 cm). Know how to judge whether the water
is deeper than this before proceeding into it.If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At
faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and
the vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get
the tailpipe under water. If the tailpipe is under
water, you will never be able to start the engine. When
going through water, remember that when the brakes
get wet, it might take longer to stop. SeeDriving in Rain
and on Wet Roads on page 4-34.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the engine and oil
coolers for mud accumulation. Thoroughly and carefully
clean these devices to allow proper cooling. Check
the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires,
and exhaust system for damage and check the fuel
lines and cooling system for any leakage.
The vehicle requires more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.
4-32
The system includes a compressor, two height sensors
and two air springs supporting the vehicle.
The system is activated when the engine is started
and deactivated when the ignition is returned to OFF.
The engine must be running for the rear of the vehicle to
be raised and the doors must be closed to enable a
transition between Normal Ride Height and Extended
Ride Height.
The compressor may be heard while the system is
active and the release of air similar to a hissing sound
may also be heard. This is normal.
Load leveling will not function normally with the in ater
hose attached to the in ator outlet. Remove the
hose from the outlet when it is not in use. See
Accessory Inflator on page 5-78.Overload and Overheat Protection
Overload protection is designed to protect the air
suspension system and is an indication to the driver that
the vehicle is overloaded.
If the rear suspension remains at a low height, the rear
axle load has exceeded GAWR (Gross Axle Weight
Rating). When the overload protection mode is activated,
the compressor operates for about 30 seconds to one
minute without raising the vehicle depending on the
amount of overload. This will continue each time the
ignition is turned on until the rear axle load is reduced
below GAWR. The system may reactivate without cycling
the ignition if some of the excess load is removed.
If the total rear GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating) is
reached, the suspension may be slightly less than level.
This is normal and does not mean there is a problem
with the air suspension.
In some instances the compressor may stop working
due to being overheated. This is normal. In the instance
of an abnormal overheat condition though the
compressor will stop working and the SERVICE
SUSPENSION SYSTEM will be displayed on the DIC.
SeeDIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-56for
more information.
4-54