2009 GMC ENVOY tires

Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different
than driving on at or rolling terrain. Tips for driving
in these conditions include:
Keep the vehicle serviced and in good shape.
Check all uid levels and brakes, tires, cooling
system, and transmission.
Going down steep or long hills, shift to a
lower gear.
{CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so
hot that they would not work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Shift down to let the engine
assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.
{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition
off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the
work of slowing down and they could get so hot
that they would not work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Always have the engine running
and the vehicle in gear when going downhill.
Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your
lane (stalled car, accident).
Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks
area, winding roads, long grades, passing or
no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.
SeeOff-Road Driving on page 4-13for information
about driving off-road.
4-27

Winter Driving
Driving on Snow or Ice
Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the
tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice
can occur at about 32°F (0°C) when freezing rain
begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid
driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be
treated with salt or sand.
Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate
gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly
causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under
the tires slick, so there is even less traction.
Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too
fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface
under the tires even more.
TheAntilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-5improves
vehicle stability during hard stops on a slippery roads, but
apply the brakes sooner than when on dry pavement.
Allow greater following distance on any slippery road
and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on
otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface
of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the
surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering
maneuvers and braking while on ice.
Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces.
Blizzard Conditions
Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay
with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible,
use theRoadside Assistance Program on page 7-7.
To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe:
Turn on theHazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6.
Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle.
This may cause exhaust gases to get inside.
Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO)
which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause
unconsciousness and even death.
If the vehicle is stuck in the snow:
Clear away snow from around the base of
your vehicle, especially any that is blocking
the exhaust pipe.
Check again from time to time to be sure
snow does not collect there.
CAUTION: (Continued)
4-28

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-31.
If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help
to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction
system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off
and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed,
they can explode, and you or others could be
injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an
engine compartment re or other damage. Spin the
wheels as little as possible and avoid going above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-76.
4-30

Tire and Loading Information Label
A vehicle specic Tire and Loading Information
label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar).
With the driver’s door open, you will nd the
label attached below the door lock post (striker).The Tire and Loading Information label shows the
number of occupant seating positions (A), and the
maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms
and pounds.
The Tire and Loading Information label also shows
the size of the original equipment tires (C) and
the recommended cold tire ination pressures (D).
For more information on tires and ination see
Tires on page 5-53andInflation - Tire Pressure on
page 5-60.
There is also important loading information on the
vehicle Certication/Tire label. It tells you the
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and
the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the
front and rear axle. See “Certication/Tire Label”
later in this section.
Label Example
4-32

Certication/Tire Label
A vehicle specic Certication/Tire label is found on
the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows
the size of your vehicle’s original tires and the
ination pressures needed to obtain the gross
weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called Gross
Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR
includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants,
fuel, cargo, and trailer tongue weight, if pulling a
trailer.The Certication/Tire label also tells you the
maximum weights for the front and rear axles,
called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To nd
out the actual loads on your front and rear axles,
you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your
vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure
to spread out your load equally on both sides of the
centerline.
Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the
GAWR for either the front or rear axle.
And, if you do have a heavy load, you should
spread it out.
Similar appearing vehicles may have different
GVWRs and capacity weights. Please note your
vehicle’s Certication/Tire label or consult
your dealer for additional details.
4-36

Pulling A Trailer
Here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
the rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you will be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later
in this section.
Do not tow a trailer at all during the rst 500 miles
(800 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that a
trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps
the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
Vehicles with an automatic transmissions can tow
in D (Drive). Shift the transmission to a lower gear
if the transmission shifts too often under heavy
loads and/or hilly conditions.Three important considerations have to do with weight:
The weight of the trailer
The weight of the trailer tongue
The weight on the vehicle’s tires
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed,
altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much
the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can
depend on any special equipment on the vehicle, and the
amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See
“Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for
more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle
must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
4-47

If the vehicle has many options and there is a front seat
passenger and two rear seat passengers with some
luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. 300 lbs (136 kg)
could be added to the front axle weight and 400 lbs
(181 kg) to the rear axle weight. The vehicle now weighs:
Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you
might think 700 additional pounds (318 kg) should be
subtracted from the trailering capacity to stay within
GCWR limits. The maximum trailer would only be
7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think the
tongue weight should be limited to less than 1,000 lbs
(454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But the effect on the
rear axle must still be considered. Because the rear axle
now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), 900 lbs (408 kg) can be
put on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The
effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual
weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves only
600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight that can be handled.Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total
loaded trailer weight, expect that the largest trailer the
vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).
It is important that the vehicle does not exceed any of
its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer
Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure it
is not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh
the vehicle and trailer.
Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper limit
for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the
Certication/Tire Label located on the B-pillar below the
door latch or seeLoading the Vehicle on page 4-31
for more information. Make sure not to go over the GVW
limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight
of the trailer tongue. If using a weight distributing
hitch, make sure not to go over the rear axle limit before
applying the weight distribution spring bars.
Hitches
It is important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why the right hitch is needed.
4-51

Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
When towing a trailer, exhaust gases may collect
at the rear of the vehicle and enter if the liftgate,
trunk/hatch, or rear-most window is open.
Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO)
which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause
unconsciousness and even death.
To maximize safety when towing a trailer:
Have the exhaust system inspected for leaks
and make necessary repairs before starting
a trip.
Never drive with the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or
rear-most window open.
Fully open the air outlets on or under the
instrument panel.
Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting
that brings in only outside air and set the fan
speed to the highest setting. See Climate
Control System in the Index.
For more information about carbon monoxide, see
Engine Exhaust on page 2-37.Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road.
Get acquainted with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind
that the vehicle you are driving is now longer and not as
responsive as the vehicle is by itself.
Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustments. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the
brakes are working. This checks the electrical connection
at the same time.
During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer.
This can help to avoid situations that require heavy
braking and sudden turns.
Passing
More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer.
Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much
farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to
the lane.
4-53