2008 GREAT WALL FLORID dimensions

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine GWFLORID Maintenance Manual82
(b) On the press, press out the lower swing arm's large
shaft sleeve with SST (Special Service Tools), and re-
place it with a new one.
(c) Check that the mounting holes of the lower swing arm's
large shaft sleeve are Φ55-0.2 -0.3, measure for inaccurate di-
mensions, replace the lower swing arm's weld assembly if
inaccurate.
(d) Before press fitting, mark the same position on the
new lower swing arm's large shaft sleeve, so as to
correspond to the mark on the lower swing arm, and
thus ensure angle alignment.
(e) On the press, use SST (Special Service Tools) to press
the new lower swing arm's large shaft sleeve into the
correct position.
5. Lower swing arm's small shaft sleeve removal, replace-
ment, and press fitting.
(a) Use a sander to smooth level the rubber flange on the
lower swing arm's small shaft sleeve.
Caution: When using the sander, be very careful not to
damage the lower swing arm.
(b) On the press, use SST (Special Service Tools) to press
out the lower swing arm's small shaft sleeve, and re-
place it with a new one.
(c) Check that the lower swing arm's small shaft sleeve's
mounting hole dimensions are Φ31+ 0 . 0 5 0.
Caution: Measure for inaccurate dimensions, replace
the lower swing arm's weld assembly if inaccurate.
F
Sanding spots
Sanding spots
F
SST
SST
SST
SST
SST
SST
F

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 93Suspension System
Dynamic balance and static balance
There are two types of wheel balance: static and dynamic.
Picture 1 shows static balance. Picture 2 shows dynamic
balance.
Static balance means that the weight distribution around the
wheel is equal. If the wheel is static and unbalanced, violent
vibrations may be created, called jump vibration.This kind
of situation can ultimately lead to the uneven wear and tear
of the tires. Shown in diagram 1.
Dynamic balance means that the weight distribution on the
two sides of the medium plane of the wheel is equal, so
during the rotation process, the tire assembly cannot create a
tendency for the medium plane of the wheel to shift from one
side to the other. If the wheel is dynamic and unbalanced, it
can create a shimmying effect. Shown in diagram 2.
1. Wheel shimmy important points[C]: Counterweight not yet added
2. Locations to add counterweight[D]: Counterweight added
3. Axis
Wheel maintenance
Do not use welding, heating, or hammering to repair wheels. All damaged wheels must be replaced.
If the vehicle's wheel is twisted or deformed, sunken or depressed, having too much horizontal or radial hop,
leaking air from the welded parts, stretched out at the bolt holes , having flimsy nut bolt lock, or severely rusty,
the wheel must be replaced. When the wheel is hopping too much, it will lead to undesirable vibratio\
ns.
When replacing the tire, be sure that the load capacity, diameter, rim width, offset distance, and the installation
structure of it, are equal to the settings of original wheel. If the wheel dimensions are not appropriate, this will
influence the wheel and bearing's life, brake cooling effect, speedometer and odometer calibration, vehicle
ground clearance, as well as the clearance between the tire and the vehi\
cle body, and the tire and vehicle chassis.
Wheel (steel wheel) removal
1. Remove the wheelhouse and loosen the nuts, 1-2 turns is
enough.
2. Hoist the vehicle.
3. Screw off the nuts and remove the wheel.
Nut tightening torque: 110±10 N·m
Caution: Heating methods absolutely must not be used
to loosen tightened wheels, otherwise the heat will
reduce its use life and damage the hub bearing.
Wheel (steel wheel) installation
Installation according to the reversed instructions used for
removal, and pay attention to the following requirements:
Wheel nuts must be tightened in proper order and according to
the specified torque, as to avoid wheel or brake disc deformity.
When installing the wheel house, be sure to line up the wheel
housing notch locations with the inflation nozzle.
Tightening sequence: A – C – B – D
Caution: Before installing the wheel, first clean off the
corrosion on the wheel's mounting surface and drum
brake or brake disc's installation surface with a wire
brush, in order to make the wheel installing easier by
making the space between its metal firmly connect
to the mounting surface, otherwise it may lead to the
wheel nuts loosening to the extent that the vehicle's
wheel may come off while driving some day.
1
3
2[A][B]
1. Wheel hop important points[A]: Counterweight not yet added
2. Locations to add counterweight[B]: Counterweight added
3. Axis
Diagram 1
Diagram 2
[C][D]
1
3
2
AB
CD

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 103Brake System
Vacuum Booster with Brake Cylinder Assembly
Components
Areas of Importance
1. The vacuum booster with brake cylinder assembly is tightly connected with the brake pedal assembly on
the cowl panel using four nuts. It is also connected with the brake pedal push rod via an center pin and
lock pin. Thus before removal of the assembly, first loosen the rigid pipe fitting with an open-end wrench,
disconnect the lock pin and center pin using pliers, loosen the four nuts, and then proceed with the booster.
2. Tighten the lock nuts on brake master cylinder and vacuum booster according to the specified torque,
and coat with signal paint.
3. Dimensions between the rear housing head face and the adjusting fork hole center is adjusted to
standard before it leaves factory. Please do not adjust it again.
4. The vacuum booster valve rod on the vehicle must be in a free state.
5. The brake master cylinder's working agent is DOT4 brake fluid. It must not be mixed with any other
brake fluid.
Problems and symptomsCausesEliminating methods
M a s t e r c y l i n d e r ' s o i l r e s e r v o i r i s severely leakingThe master cylinder, slave cylinder, or hydraulic line is leaking.Eliminate the areas with leaks (in general, it may be that the pipe fitting's tightening torque is not enough, check one by one and tighten as necessary)
1. Vacuum booster not sufficient2. No boost when the engine is off3. May lead to unsteady engine idling when severe
1. Under non-operating conditions, the vacuum booster leaks air.2. Front and rear housing connection are not sealed.3. Booster's front and rear gas seal sealing failure.4. Vacuum check valve leaks.
1. Replace the front and back gas seal and control valve assembly.2. Replace the vacuum booster.3. Replace the vacuum check valve assembly.
Brake pedal is heavy with no boost effect1. Under non-operating conditions, the vacuum booster leaks air.2. Booster diaphragm worn and damaged.3. Control valve ring cup worn and damaged.
1. Replace the front, back gas seal and booster diaphragm.2. Replace the vacuum booster.3. Replace the control valve assembly.
Spongy pedal when braking1. There is air in the brake fluid.2. Cylinder or slave cylinder leaks oil.3. There is brake line seepage.
1. Eliminate the air in the system.2. Inspect the cylinder and sub-pump cup and replace with new parts.3. Inspect the pipeline and eliminate the seepage.
When continuously step on the brake pedal, the pedal will gradually change and expand till the highest extend.
Pump valve opening blockage.Brake fluid cleanliness is insufficient, please replace the brake fluid.
Troubleshooting
Oil cup cover
Oil cup body
Check valve
Check valve seat
Vacuum booster
Pad
Lock nut
Rod clevisCoupling nut
Rectangular sealing ringCylinder body
Fluid supply sealing ring

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine GWFLORID Maintenance Manual114
(d) Measure the front hub bearing's starting torque.
Put the SST on the wheel bolts which are at the symmetric
locations. Put a dial torque wrench on the SST to slowly
rotate the flange assembly (45°/4s), requiring a starting
torque range of 0.1-0.3 N·m.
If the bearing rotation is not flexible, the front hub flange
plate surface movement inaccurate, or front hub bearing
starting torque is too much. The assembly must be replaced.
Steering knuckle's front hub bearing and
front hub flange assembly
1. Removal and inspection of front hub flange assembly.
(a) Use SST like a hand held travel hammer to repeatedly
hammer off the front hub flange assembly from the
steering knuckle and front hub bearing. Remove the
front hub with bearing's inner ring.
(b) Remove the bearing's inner ring on the front hub.
Use SST to remove the bearing's inner ring.
SST
SST
Bearing inner ring
SST
(c) Use dye penetrant to inspect the front hub flange for
cracks, which should be replaced if found.
(d) If one would like to continue using the front hub flange
assembly, first inspect the dimensions for the mounting
area of the bearing for inaccurate dimensions. If
oversized, replace.
Measurement range: Φ38+0.025 +0.009 mm
2. Remove the steering knuckle's front hub bearing.
3. Remove the snap ring for hole 72.
Use a bent nose retaining ring caliper for holes to remove the
snap ring for hole 72.

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 115Brake System
4. Replace the removed bearing's inner ring back to the
bearing's original position.
5. Press out the front hub bearing from inside of the steer-
ing knuckle.
On the press, withstand the bearing inner ring that was put
on with SST, and press out the entire front hub bearing.
Caution: The front hub bearing assembly is a disposable
part, which needs to be replaced with a new one.
Steering knuckle and hub brake assembly
installation
1. On the press, press the front hub bearing assembly
into the steering knuckle hole bearing mounting posi-
tion with SST.
SST
SST
SST
6. If the steering knuckle has no cracks and one would
like to continue to use it, first inspect the bearing's
mounting location dimensions of the steering knuckle's
inner hole. If the measurements are oversized, replace
the steering knuckle.
Measurement range: Φ71-0.032 -0.062 mm
2. Press the front hub flange assembly.
On the press, press the front hub flange into the front hub
bearing mounting position using SST.
SST
SST