2007 SATURN VUE HYBRID engine

Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different
from driving in at or rolling terrain.If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are
planning to visit there, here are some tips that
can make your trips safer and more enjoyable.
Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check
all uid levels and also the brakes, tires,
cooling system, and transaxle. These parts
can work hard on mountain roads.
{CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, the brakes could
get so hot that they would not work well.
You would then have poor braking or
even none going down a hill. You could
crash. Shift down to let the engine assist
the brakes on a steep downhill slope.
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{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with
the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes
will have to do all the work of slowing
down. They could get so hot that they
would not work well. You would then have
poor braking or even none going down a
hill. You could crash. Always have the
engine running and your vehicle in gear
when you go downhill.
Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of
the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when
you go down a steep or long hill.
Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift
down to a lower gear. The lower gears help
cool your engine and transaxle, and you can
climb the hill better.
Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide
or cut across the center of the road. Drive at
speeds that let you stay in your own lane.
As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There
could be something in your lane, like a stalled
car or an accident.
You may see highway signs on mountains that
warn of special problems. Examples are long
grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling
rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these
and take appropriate action.
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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be
careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO
(carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO
could overcome you and kill you. You
cannot see it or smell it, so you might not
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away
snow from around the base of your
vehicle, especially any that is blocking the
exhaust pipe. And check around again
from time to time to be sure snow does
not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of
the vehicle that is away from the wind.
This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must.
This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it
go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the
accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat
that you get and it keeps the battery charged.
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You will need a well-charged battery to restart the
vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with
your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window
almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start
the engine again and repeat this only when you
feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as
little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as
you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of
the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or so until help comes.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck,
you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not
want to spin your wheels too fast. The method
known as rocking can help you get out when you
are stuck, but you must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or others
could be injured. And, the transaxle or
other parts of the vehicle can overheat.
That could cause an engine compartment
re or other damage. When you are stuck,
spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not
spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as
shown on the speedometer.
Notice:Spinning the wheels can destroy
parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you
spin the wheels too fast while shifting the
transaxle back and forth, you can destroy the
transaxle. SeeRocking Your Vehicle to Get
It Out on page 262.
For information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 356.
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4. Shift the transaxle from DRIVE (D) to
NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine run for
three minutes. Then turn it off.
Due to transaxle uid drain back, the transaxle
lubrication procedure in Step 4 is required
every seven hours after the initial procedure
has been completed, regardless of the vehicle
being towed or parked. Once the procedure
is performed, the transaxle is adequately
lubricated and can be recreational vehicle
towed for seven hours prior to repeating the
lubrication procedure.
As an example, if you initially perform the
lubrication procedure and tow your vehicle for
three hours, then park for four hours, the
lubrication procedure will need to be
performed again, prior to dinghy towing the
vehicle.
Notice:Towing your vehicle after shifting the
transaxle from anything other than DRIVE (D)
to NEUTRAL (N) can cause internal damage to
the transaxle. Always shift the transaxle
from DRIVE (D) to NEUTRAL (N) as the last
shift before towing.5. Locate and remove the large IGN fuse from
the underhood fuse block. SeeUnderhood
Fuse Block on page 382.
Notice:If you tow your vehicle without
performing each of the steps listed under
“Dinghy Towing,” you could damage the
automatic transaxle. Be sure to follow all steps
of the dinghy towing procedure prior to and
after towing your vehicle.
Notice:Your vehicle can be dinghy towed
from the front for unlimited miles at 65 mph
(105 km/h). If you exceed 65 mph (105 km/h)
while towing your vehicle, it could be damaged.
The repairs would not be covered by your
warranty. Never exceed 65 mph (105 km/h)
while towing your vehicle.
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Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with
the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify
the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should
read the information in “Weight of the Trailer”
that appears later in this section. Trailering
is different than just driving your vehicle by itself.
Trailering means changes in handling,
acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct
equipment, and it has to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many
time-tested, important trailering tips and safety
rules. Many of these are important for your safety
and that of your passengers. So please read
this section carefully before you pull a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine,
transaxle, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires
are forced to work harder against the drag of
the added weight. The engine is required
to operate at relatively higher speeds and under
greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more,
the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance,
increasing the pulling requirements.If You Do Decide to Pull a Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed
limit restrictions, having to do with trailering.
Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where
you live but also where you’ll be driving.
A good source for this information can be state
or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches”
later in this section.
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the rst
500 miles (805 km) your new vehicle is driven.
Your engine, axle or other parts could be
damaged. The repairs would not be covered
by your warranty.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (805 km) that
you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph
(80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle.
This helps your engine and other parts of
your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
Use INTERMEDIATE (I) or as you need to, a
lower gear which will minimize heat buildup
and extend the life of your transaxle.
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Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of
total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the
largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is
6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).
It is important that you make sure your vehicle
does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR,
GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating
or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you
are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh
your vehicle and trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the
upper limit for cold tires. You will nd these
numbers on the Tire and Loading Information
label. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 264.
Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for
your vehicle or the Gross Axle Weight Rating
(GAWR), including the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough
roads are a few reasons why you will need the
right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not
intended for hitches. Do not attach rental
hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it.
Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not
attach to the bumper.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of
your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later
when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal
them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your
exhaust can get into your vehicle. SeeEngine
Exhaust on page 125. Dirt and water can, too.
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Driving on Grades
Notice:Do not tow on steep continuous
grades exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended,
higher than normal engine and transaxle
temperatures may result and damage your
vehicle. Frequent stops are very important to
allow the engine and transaxle to cool.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before
you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you
don’t shift down, you might have to use your
brakes so much that they would get hot and no
longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce
your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce
the possibility of the engine and the transaxle
overheating. If your engine does overheat,
seeEngine Overheating on page 309.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle,
with a trailer attached, on a hill.
If something goes wrong, your rig could
start to move. People can be injured, and
both your vehicle and the trailer can be
damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill,
here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P).
When parking uphill, turn your wheels away
from the curb. When parking downhill,
turn your wheels into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks behind the
trailer wheels.
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