Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a
good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can
return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with
one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left,
just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while
trailering could cause the trailer to come in
contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could
be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns
while trailering.When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider
turns than normal. Do this so your trailer
won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs,
trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden
maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a
different turn signal asher and/or extra wiring.
Check with your dealer/retailer. The arrows
on your instrument panel will ash whenever you
signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked
up, the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other
drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your
instrument panel will ash for turns even if the
bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may
think drivers behind you are seeing your signal
when they are not. It’s important to check
occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are
still working.
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Driving on Grades
Your vehicle is designed primarily as a passenger
and load carrying vehicle. If you tow a trailer,
your vehicle will require more frequent
maintenance due to the additional load. Because
of the added load of the trailer, your vehicle’s
engine may overheat on hot days, when going up
a long or steep grade with a trailer. If the engine
coolant temperature gage indicates overheating,
turn off the air conditioning to reduce engine load,
pull off the road and stop in a safe spot.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before
you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you
don’t shift down, you might have to use your
brakes so much that they would get hot and no
longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce
your speed to around 55 mph (88 km/h) to reduce
the possibility of the engine and the transmission
overheating.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle,
with a trailer attached, on a hill.
If something goes wrong, your rig could
start to move. People can be injured, and
both your vehicle and the trailer can be
damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill,
here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift
into PARK (P).
When parking uphill, turn your wheels away
from the curb. When parking downhill,
turn your wheels into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks behind the
trailer wheels.
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3. When the chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb
the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the
chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often
when you’re pulling a trailer. SeeScheduled
Maintenance on page 502for more information.
Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission uid
(don’t over ll), engine oil, axle lubricant, drive
belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of
these is covered in this manual, and the Index will
help you nd them quickly. If you’re trailering,
it’s a good idea to review this information before
you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and
bolts are tight.
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Trailer Wiring Harness
Your vehicle is equipped with the following wiring
harness for towing a trailer.
Basic Trailer Wiring
The trailer wiring harness, with a seven-pin
connector, is located at the rear of the vehicle
and is tied to the vehicle’s frame. The harness
connector can be plugged into a seven-pin
universal heavy-duty trailer connector available
through your dealer/retailer.
The seven-wire harness contains the following
trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Red: Battery Feed*
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake*
*The fuses for these two circuits are installed in
the underhood electrical center, but the wires
are not connected. They should be connected by
your dealer/retailer or a quali ed service center.
If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery,
press the tow/haul mode button located at the
end of the shift lever. This will boost the vehicle
system voltage and properly charge the battery.
If the trailer is too light for tow/haul mode, you can
turn on the headlamps (Non-HID only) as a
second way to boost the vehicle system and
charge the battery.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat
during severe operating conditions. SeeEngine
Overheating on page 410.
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Gasoline Octane
Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted
octane rating of 87 or higher. For best performance
or trailer towing, you could choose to use middle
grade 89 octane unleaded gasoline. If the
octane rating is less than 87, you might notice
an audible knocking noise when you drive,
commonly referred to as spark knock. If this
occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher
as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline
rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy
knocking, the engine needs service.
Gasoline Speci cations
At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM
speci cation D 4814 in the United States or
CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some
gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive
called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese
tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the
use of gasolines containing MMT. SeeAdditives
on page 389for additional information.
California Fuel
If your vehicle is certi ed to meet California
Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate
on fuels that meet California speci cations.
See the underhood emission control label.
If this fuel is not available in states adopting
California emissions standards, your vehicle will
operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal
speci cations, but emission control system
performance might be affected. The malfunction
indicator lamp could turn on and your vehicle might
fail a smog-check test. SeeMalfunction Indicator
Lamp on page 226. If this occurs, return to
your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis.
If it is determined that the condition is caused
by the type of fuel used, repairs might not
be covered by your warranty.
388
A. Radiator Pressure Cap (Out of View).
SeeRadiator Pressure Cap on page 410.
B. Engine Coolant Recovery Cap. SeeCooling
System on page 413.
C. Underhood Fuse Block. SeeUnderhood Fuse
Block on page 493.
D. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. SeeJump
Starting on page 425.
E. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower
Steering Fluid on page 419.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine
Oil” underEngine Oil on page 397.
G. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 397.
H. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick.
See “Checking the Fluid Level” under
Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 404.
I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake
Fluid” underBrakes on page 421.
J. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 402.
K. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir.
See “Adding Washer Fluid” under
Windshield Washer Fluid on page 420.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time
you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading,
the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be
on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 396
for the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil
several minutes to drain back into the oil
pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might
not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper
towel or cloth, then push it back in all the
way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down,
and check the level.
397
Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare the vehicle as follows:
1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the
engine running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift
lever in PARK (P).
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the
shift lever through each gear, pausing for
about three seconds in each one. Then,
position the shift lever in PARK (P).
4. Let the engine run at idle for three to
ve minutes.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow
these steps:
The transmission uid
dipstick cap has this
symbol on it, and
is located near the
front of the engine
compartment.SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 396
for more information on location.
1. Remove the dipstick and wipe it with a clean
rag or paper towel.
2. Reinstall back in all the way, wait
three seconds and then pull it back out
again.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the
lower level. The uid level must be in the
crosshatched area.
4. If the uid level is in the acceptable range,
twist & lock dipstick cap in place.
405