2007 CHEVROLET EXPRESS PASSANGER tow

Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and
you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your
vehicle. You can not see or smell CO. It
can cause unconsciousness or death. See
Engine Exhaust on page 132. To maximize
your safety when towing a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected
for leaks, and make necessary repairs
before starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with
the fan on any speed. This will bring
fresh, outside air into your vehicle.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
Do not use the climate control
setting for maximum air because it
only recirculates the air inside your
vehicle. See Climate Control System
in the Index.
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. Before setting out for the open road,
you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint
yourself with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always
keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is
now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer
moving and then apply the trailer brake controller
by hand to be sure the brakes are working.
This lets you check your electrical connection at
the same time.
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During your trip, check occasionally to be sure
that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead
as you would when driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations
that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a
good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can
return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with
one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just
move that hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while
trailering could cause the trailer to come in
contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns
while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider
turns than normal. Do this so your trailer
won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs,
trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden
maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have
extra wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal
flasher (included in the optional trailering package).
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash
whenever you signal a turn or lane change.
Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also
flash, telling other drivers you’re about to
turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your
instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs
on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think
drivers behind you are seeing your signal when
they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to
be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbefore
you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you
don’t shift down, you might have to use your
brakes so much that they would get hot and no
longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift
the transmission to THIRD (3) or a lower gear
under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill
grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will
boil at a lower temperature than at normal
altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately
after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
your vehicle may show signs similar to engine
overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while
parked (preferably on level ground) with the
automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few
minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get
the overheat warning, seeEngine Overheating
on page 315.
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Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when
you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance
Schedule for more on this. Things that are
especially important in trailer operation are
automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine
oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you find them
quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea
to review these sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and
bolts are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
The optional heavy-duty trailer wiring package
includes a seven-wire harness assembly at the rear
of the vehicle and a four-wire harness assembly
under the left hand side of the instrument panel.
The seven-wire harness assembly is taped together
and located in a frame pocket at the driver side rear
left corner of the frame. The seven-wire harness
includes a 30-amp feed wire.Both harnesses come without connectors and
should be wired by a qualified electrical technician.
The technician can use the following color code
chart when connecting the wiring harness to your
trailer and trailer brake controller.
Seven-Wire Harness
•Light Green: Back-up lamps
•Brown: Parking lamps
•Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal
•Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal
•Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes
•Red/Black Stripe: Trailer accessory
•White (heavy gage): Ground wire
Four-Wire Harness (Trailer Brake Controller)
•Black: Ground
•Red/White Stripe: Fused Battery
•Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Feed
•Light Blue: Fused Stoplamp/CHMSL
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A. Battery. SeeBattery on page 329.
B. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure
Cap on page 315.
C. Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling System
on page 317.
D. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See
“Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 309.
E. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine
Oil” underEngine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on
page 303.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on
page 303.
G. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine
Air Cleaner/Filter on page 308.
H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower
Steering Fluid on page 323.
I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake
Fluid” underBrakes on page 325.
J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See
“Adding Washer Fluid” underWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 324.Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine)
If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Engine
Oil” in the DURAMAX®Diesel Engine Supplement.
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time
you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading,
the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be
on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 302
for the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several
minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you
do not do this, the oil dipstick might not
show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper
towel or cloth, then push it back in all the
way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down,
and check the level.
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Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the
engine running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift
lever in PARK (P).
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the
shift lever through each gear range, pausing
for about three seconds in each range.
Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).
4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes
or more.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow
these steps:
The transmission
dipstick is located near
the center of the
engine compartment
and will be labeled with
the graphic shown.SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 302
for more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the
dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or
paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds
and then pull it back out again.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the
lower level. The fluid level must be in the
COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT
or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure
to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an
accurate reading.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range,
push the dipstick back in all the way; then
flip the handle down to lock the dipstick
in place.
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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can
burn you badly, even if you just open the
hood. Stay away from the engine if you
see or hear steam coming from it. Just
turn it off and get everyone away from
the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until
there is no sign of steam or coolant
before you open the hood.
If you keep driving when your engine is
overheated, the liquids in it can catch re.
You or others could be badly burned.
Stop your engine if it overheats, and get
out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.
Notice:If your engine catches re because
you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle
can be badly damaged. The costly repairs
would not be covered by your warranty.
If No Steam Is Coming From
Your Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see
or hear no steam, the problem may not be
too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a
little too hot when you:
•Climb a long hill on a hot day.
•Stop after high-speed driving.
•Idle for long periods in traffic.
•Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades”
underTowing a Trailer on page 269.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of
steam, try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in
NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to
do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P)
or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest
fan speed and open the windows as
necessary.
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Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan.
When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster
to provide more air to cool the engine. In most
everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning
slower and the clutch is not fully engaged.
This improves fuel economy and reduces fan
noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing,
and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages,
so you may hear an increase in fan noise.
This is normal and should not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It
is merely the cooling system functioning properly.
The fan will slow down when additional cooling
is not required and the clutch partially disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you
start the engine. It will go away as the fan
clutch partially disengages.
Power Steering Fluid
The power steering fluid
reservoir is located in
the engine compartment
on the driver’s side of
the vehicle. SeeEngine
Compartment Overview
on page 302for
reservoir location.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power
steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak
in the system or you hear an unusual noise.
A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem.
Have the system inspected and repaired.
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