2007 CHEVROLET EXPRESS CARGO VAN trailer

You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle
weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle
weight. Your vehicle now weighs:
Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you
may think that you should subtract 700 additional
pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity to
stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer
would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go
further and think you must limit tongue weight to
less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding
GVWR. But, you must still consider the effect on therear axle. Because your rear axle now weighs
3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs
(408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding
RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about
1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs
(408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able to
handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight.
Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of
total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the
largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is
6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).
It is important that you make sure your vehicle
does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR,
GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating
or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you
are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh
your vehicle and trailer.
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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the
upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers
on the Certification label at the rear edge of the
driver’s door or seeLoading Your Vehicle on
page 261. Then be sure you don’t go over
the GVW limit for your vehicle, or the GAWR,
including the weight of the trailer tongue. If you use
a weight distributing hitch, make sure you don’t
go over the rear axle limit before you apply
the weight distribution spring bars.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads
are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended
for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or
other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a
frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to
the bumper.
Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight
Carrying Hitches
When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch
must be adjusted so that the distance (A) remains
the same both before and after coupling the
trailer to the tow vehicle.
If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper could
be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you
have ample room when turning to avoid contact
between the trailer and the bumper.
(A) Body to Ground Distance, (B) Front of Vehicle
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If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg), be sure
to use a properly mounted weight-distributing hitch
and sway control of the proper size. This
equipment is very important for proper vehicle
loading and good handling when you’re driving.
You should always use a sway control if your
trailer will weigh more than these limits. You can
ask a hitch dealer/retailer about sway controls.
Will you have to make any holes in the body
of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you’re using the wiring provided with the
factory-installed trailering package, you should not
need to make any holes in the body of your vehicle.
However, if you have an aftermarket hitch installed,
you may need to make holes in the body.
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later
when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them,
deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust
can get into your vehicle as well as dirt and water.
See “Carbon Monoxide” underEngine Exhaust
on page 132.Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your
vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety
chains under the tongue of the trailer to help
prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it
becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions
about safety chains may be provided by the hitch
manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for
attaching safety chains and do not attach them to
the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so
you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety
chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they
must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be
able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.
If your vehicle has StabiliTrak
®, your trailer
brake system cannot tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system.
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Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and
you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your
vehicle. You can not see or smell CO. It
can cause unconsciousness or death. See
Engine Exhaust on page 132. To maximize
your safety when towing a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected
for leaks, and make necessary repairs
before starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with
the fan on any speed. This will bring
fresh, outside air into your vehicle.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
Do not use the climate control
setting for maximum air because it
only recirculates the air inside your
vehicle. See Climate Control System
in the Index.
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. Before setting out for the open road,
you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint
yourself with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always
keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is
now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer
moving and then apply the trailer brake controller
by hand to be sure the brakes are working.
This lets you check your electrical connection at
the same time.
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During your trip, check occasionally to be sure
that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead
as you would when driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations
that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a
good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can
return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with
one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just
move that hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while
trailering could cause the trailer to come in
contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns
while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider
turns than normal. Do this so your trailer
won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs,
trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden
maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have
extra wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal
flasher (included in the optional trailering package).
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash
whenever you signal a turn or lane change.
Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also
flash, telling other drivers you’re about to
turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your
instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs
on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think
drivers behind you are seeing your signal when
they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to
be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbefore
you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you
don’t shift down, you might have to use your
brakes so much that they would get hot and no
longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift
the transmission to THIRD (3) or a lower gear
under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill
grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will
boil at a lower temperature than at normal
altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately
after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
your vehicle may show signs similar to engine
overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while
parked (preferably on level ground) with the
automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few
minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get
the overheat warning, seeEngine Overheating
on page 315.
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Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your
vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill.
If something goes wrong, your rig could
start to move. People can be injured,
and both your vehicle and the trailer
can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill,
here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift
into PARK (P) yet. Then turn your wheels
into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic
if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the
trailer wheels.3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release
the regular brakes until the chocks absorb
the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and then shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you:
•start your engine,
•shift into a gear, and
•release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of
the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
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Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when
you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance
Schedule for more on this. Things that are
especially important in trailer operation are
automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine
oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you find them
quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea
to review these sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and
bolts are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
The optional heavy-duty trailer wiring package
includes a seven-wire harness assembly at the rear
of the vehicle and a four-wire harness assembly
under the left hand side of the instrument panel.
The seven-wire harness assembly is taped together
and located in a frame pocket at the driver side rear
left corner of the frame. The seven-wire harness
includes a 30-amp feed wire.Both harnesses come without connectors and
should be wired by a qualified electrical technician.
The technician can use the following color code
chart when connecting the wiring harness to your
trailer and trailer brake controller.
Seven-Wire Harness
•Light Green: Back-up lamps
•Brown: Parking lamps
•Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal
•Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal
•Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes
•Red/Black Stripe: Trailer accessory
•White (heavy gage): Ground wire
Four-Wire Harness (Trailer Brake Controller)
•Black: Ground
•Red/White Stripe: Fused Battery
•Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Feed
•Light Blue: Fused Stoplamp/CHMSL
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