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Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. Before setting out for the open road,
you will want to get to know your rig. Acquaint
yourself with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always
keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is
now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and
platform, parts and attachments, safety chains,
electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror
adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start
your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply
the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the
brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure
that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead
as you would when driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations
that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You will need more passing distance up ahead
when you are towing a trailer. And, because
the vehicle is a good deal longer, you will need to
go much farther beyond the passed vehicle
before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with
one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just
move that hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
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Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while
trailering could cause the trailer to come in
contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns
while trailering.
When you are turning with a trailer, make wider
turns than normal. Do this so your trailer will
not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees
or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden
maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a
different turn signal asher and/or extra wiring.
Check with your /retailer. The arrows on your
instrument panel will ash whenever you signal a
turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers you
are about to turn, change lanes or stop.When towing a trailer, the arrows on your
instrument panel will ash for turns even if the
bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may
think drivers behind you are seeing your signal
when they are not. It is important to check
occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are
still working.
Driving on Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbefore
you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you
do not shift down, you might have to use your
brakes so much that they would get hot and
no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce
your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce
the possibility of the engine and the transmission
overheating.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you:
Start your engine,
Shift into a gear, and
Make sure the parking brake has released.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of
the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when
you are pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance
Schedule for more on this. Things that are
especially important in trailer operation are
automatic transmission uid (do not over ll),
engine oil, drive belt, cooling system and brake
system. Each of these is covered in this manual,
and the Index will help you nd them quickly.
If you are trailering, it is a good idea to review this
information before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and
bolts are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat
during severe operating conditions. SeeEngine
Overheating on page 377.
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A. Underhood Fuse Block. SeeUnderhood Fuse
Block on page 452.
B. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. SeeJump
Starting on page 392.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See
“Adding Washer Fluid” underWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 386.
D. Engine Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap.
SeeCoolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on
page 377andCooling System on page 380.
E. Remote Negative (−) Terminal. SeeJump
Starting on page 392Jump Starting.
F. Power Steering Fluid. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 385.
G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine
Oil” underEngine Oil on page 365.
H. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 365.
I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake
Fluid” underBrakes on page 387.
J. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Cap and Dipstick
(Out of View). SeeAutomatic Transaxle
Fluid on page 372.
K. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 370.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time
you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading,
the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be
on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 364
for the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several
minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you
do not do this, the oil dipstick might not
show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper
towel or cloth, then push it back in all the
way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down,
and check the level.
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