Page 125 of 496
Torque Lock
If you are parking on a hill and you do not shift your
transaxle into PARK (P) properly, the weight of the
vehicle may put too much force on the parking pawl
in the transaxle. You may nd it difficult to pull the
shift lever out of PARK (P). This is called torque
lock. To prevent torque lock, set the parking brake
and then shift into PARK (P) properly before you
leave the driver’s seat. To nd out how, seeShifting
Into Park (P) on page 123.
If torque lock does occur, you may need to
have another vehicle push yours a little uphill to
take some of the pressure from the parking pawl in
the transaxle, so you can pull the shift lever out
of PARK (P).
Shifting Out of Park (P)
Your vehicle has an automatic transaxle shift lock
control system. You have to fully apply your regular
brakes before you can shift from PARK (P) when
the ignition is RUN. SeeAutomatic Transaxle
Operation on page 119.
The shift lock control system is designed to do the
following:
Prevent the ignition key from being removed
unless the shift lever is in PARK (P).
Prevent movement of the console shift lever
out of PARK (P) unless the ignition is in a
position other than OFF.
The shift lock control system is always functional
except in the case of a dead battery or low
voltage (less than 9 V) battery.
If you cannot shift out of PARK (P), ease the
pressure on the shift lever. Push the shift lever
all the way into PARK (P) as you maintain
brake application. Then move the shift lever into
the gear you want.
If you are still having a problem shifting, then have
your vehicle serviced soon.
125
Page 305 of 496
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be
careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under
your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO
(carbon monoxide) gas to get inside.
CO could overcome you and kill you.
You cannot see it or smell it, so you might
not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away
snow from around the base of your
vehicle, especially any that is blocking
your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow
does not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of
the vehicle that is away from the wind.
This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This
saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go
a little faster than just idle. That is, push the
accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat
that you get and it keeps the battery charged.
305
Page 375 of 496
CAUTION: (Continued)
But if a battery has ller caps, be sure the
right amount of uid is there. If it is low,
add water to take care of that rst. If you
do not, explosive gas could be present.
Battery uid contains acid that can burn
you. Do not get it on you. If you
accidentally get it in your eyes or on your
skin, ush the place with water and get
medical help immediately.
{CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can
injure you badly. Keep your hands away
from moving parts once the engine is
running.5. Check that the jumper cables do not have
loose or missing insulation. If they do, you
could get a shock. The vehicles could
be damaged too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some
basic things you should know. Positive (+)
will go to positive (+) or to a remote
positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted
metal engine part or to a remote negative (−)
terminal if the vehicle has one.
Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−)or
you will get a short that would damage
the battery and maybe other parts too. And do
not connect the negative (−) cable to the
negative (−) terminal on the dead battery
because this can cause sparks.
6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the
positive (+) terminal of the dead battery.
Use a remote positive (+) terminal if
the vehicle has one.
7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect
it to the positive (+) terminal of the good
battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if
the vehicle has one.
375
Page 376 of 496
8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to
the negative (−) terminal of the good battery.
Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the
vehicle has one.
Do not let the other end touch anything until
the next step. The other end of the
negative (−) cabledoes notgo to the dead
battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted
metal engine part or to a remote negative (−)
terminal on the vehicle with the dead
battery.
9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable
at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead
battery, but not near engine parts that move.
The electrical connection is just as good there,
and the chance of sparks getting back to the
battery is much less.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery
and run the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead
battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it
probably needs service.Notice:If the jumper cables are connected or
removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting
may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs
would not be covered by your warranty. Always
connect and remove the jumper cables in the
correct order, making sure that the cables do
not touch each other or other metal.
A. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and
Remote Negative (−) Terminals
C. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or
Remote Negative (−) Terminal
Jumper Cable Removal
376
Page 377 of 496
To disconnect the jumper cables from both
vehicles, do the following:
1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from
the vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from
the vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
other vehicle.
5. Return the positive (+) remote terminal cover
to its original position.
Headlamp Aiming
The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming
system. The aim of the headlamps have been
preset at the factory and should need no further
adjustment.
However, if the vehicle is damaged in an accident,
the aim of the headlamps may be affected and
adjustment may be necessary.
If oncoming vehicles ash their high beams at
you, this may mean the vertical aim of your
headlamps needs to be adjusted.It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your
dealer for service if the headlamps need to be
adjusted. It is possible however, to re-aim the
headlamps as described in the following procedure.
The vehicle should be properly prepared as
follows:
The vehicle should be placed so the
headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light
colored wall.
The vehicle must have all four tires on a level
surface which is level all the way to the wall.
The vehicle should be placed so it is
perpendicular to the wall.
The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or
mud on it.
The vehicle should be fully assembled and all
other work stopped while headlamp aiming is
being performed.
The vehicle should be normally loaded with a
full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs
(75 kg) sitting on the driver’s seat.
Tires should be properly in ated.
The spare tire is in its proper location in the
vehicle.
377
